Raw to jpeg quality

How do you set the quality of the jpeg file. iphoto makes a jpg copy of the raw file, that jpg file is very small eg: 5.0meg raw 700k jpg. How do I change the compression so I get a bigger file or lose less quality. Shot some beach pictures for a friend of her family, gave her a disk with the jpg's on it. She took It and had some 8x10 made, they were all pixilated and fuzzy. But the 4x6 I printed at home were great. Can any one explain?

When you import a Raw to iPhoto it automatically creates a jepg preview of the file. Why? Because you cannot do anything with a Raw: you cannot print it, use it a slideshow and so on. However, with this preview you can work with the photo immediately.
My guess is that this is what you gave to your friend and printed.
You can, however, also process the Raw in iPhoto simply by editing it. The Raw processing engine in iPhoto the same one used in Aperture, but with less fine control. (Think of the differences between Word and TextEdit, iMovie and Final Cut). The output from the processing then replaces the preview. You can choose to save your output as either jpeg or tiff in the iPhoto Preferences.
Try save a processed Raw as tiff, see if that solves your quality issue.
When you are processing Raw in iPhoto you will see the Raw badge on the bottom of the iPhoto Window
Uploaded with plasq's Skitch!
Note: After you have processed a Raw, subsequent edits to the photo are carried out on the processed jpeg (or tiff) not the Raw. If you want to go back to the original then you need to use the Photos -> Reprocess Raw command.
Regards
TD

Similar Messages

RAW to Jpeg quality looks fine in Aperture not so good on Web page

I am using the latest version of Aperture with the Retina display. The Raw images look tremendous, after I resize the image and save it to jpeg the image still looks good. When I upload to a web page the image looks horrible. There is a lot of noise and the image over all looks blurred. I open it in Aperture and it looks fine. What is the issue? I have tried the different settings when saving the image and nothing works. I have also saved the image in a tif format and still the same issue. Looks great in aperture not so great on the web. Please help if possible.

Your site is likely re-sampling your file, perhaps because it is too large. Ask the Webmaster what size and quality to make the JPGs, and export to that. There may also be a browser issue.
If you provide some details re: exactly how your are exporting, which site you are using, how the JPG is used, etc., someone here may be able to provide additional guidance -- but this seems to be a Web question, as Aperture -- from what you say -- is working well for you.

I burned my first iDVD andpicture quality is not good. Originals are excellent. My photos are shot in raw or jpeg, both are not sharp when I view my DVD. I viewed it on my 1080 dpi tv and my new apple computer.

I burned my first iDVD andpicture quality is not good. Originals are excellent. My photos are shot in raw or jpeg, both are not sharp when I view my DVD. I viewed it on my 1080 dpi tv and my new apple computer.

There are many ways to produce slide shows using iPhoto, iMovie or iDVD and some limit the number of photos you can use (iDVD has a 99 chapter (slide) limitation).
If what you want is what I want, namely to be able to use high resolution photos (even 300 dpi tiff files), to pan and zoom individual photos, use a variety of transitions, to add and edit music or commentary, place text exactly where you want it, and to end up with a DVD that looks good on both your Mac and a TV - in other words end up with and end result that does not look like an old fashioned slide show from a projector - you may be interested in how I do it. You don't have to do it my way, but the following may be food for thought!
Firstly you need proper software to assemble the photos, decide on the duration of each, the transitions you want to use, and how to pan and zoom individual photos where required, and add proper titles. For this I use Photo to Movie. You can read about what it can do on their website:
http://www.lqgraphics.com/software/phototomovie.php
(Other users here use the alternative FotoMagico: http://www.boinx.com/fotomagico/homevspro/ which you may prefer - I have no experience with it.)
Neither of these are freeware, but are worth the investment if you are going to do a lot of slide shows. Read about them in detail, then decide which one you feel is best suited to your needs.
Once you have timed and arranged and manipulated the photos to your liking in Photo to Movie, it exports the file to iMovie as a DV stream. You can add music in Photo to Movie, but I prefer doing this in iMovie where it is easier to edit. You can now further edit the slide show in iMovie just as you would a movie, including adding other video clips, then send it to iDVD 7, or Toast, for burning.
You will be pleasantly surprised at how professional the results can be!
To simply create a slide show in iDVD 7 onwards from images in iPhoto or stored in other places on your hard disk or a connected server, look here:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1089

RAW + JPEG Quality setting. Canon 5DII. 2 JPEGs downloads.

I am using PSE 7. ACR 5.6 installed. Camera is set for RAW+JPEG but download is only 2 JPEGS. I have read the plug-in download and install instructions several times and all that I am able to think of is ACR need to be installed in two locations.
Now what?
Bob AZ

Barbara
Thanks for the very helpful reply. I have been using Canon since 2005 and all has really been well. I could comment further but it would be thread drifting
I usually shoot only RAW and many images at a time. 250+. Sometimes I would like RAW files/images and JPEGs of each image. Usually maybe three times a year. This last time I was doing 50 some portraits with RAW for portraits and JPEGS for a directory. Imagine my surprise when the download was all JPEGS. I usually download from my Canon, a 5DII now, using My Computer with no problems. Been doing it since day one. Never a problem. Reshoot would have been a real inconvenience for lots of folks. I had recently sent my camera and lenses in for maintenance and have the lenses calibrated to the body. First thought was the camera Firmware Update so I checked the Adobe Camera Raw site for updates and updated ACW to 5.6. Three times I tried it to no avail. Nothing I tried would work. I did stumble through the portraits with acceptable success but I am a firm believer in RAW so in my quest for a solution I tried the Canon Forum and now the Adobe Forum. I also did pull the CompactFlash card from the camera and verified that both RAW and JPEG files are on the card using My Computer.
Which Windows System Utility do you suggest?
Bob AZ

Understanding Camera RAW with JPEGs

I usually work on the design end, hence I rarely work (professionally) with files straight-from-camera. I get the stuff after the photographers are done with it.
However, that is slightly changing and so I have a question about the Camera Raw plugin in Photoshop. In particular, processing JPEG images with it.
If I understand correctly, it does not actually modify the JPEG image itself, but merely saves the correction information as metadata in the JPEG file, which is then re-constructed when the JPEG is re-opened.
This would (assuming I understand it properly) make it a "safe" way of tweaking JPEGs as unlike most JPEG operations, no resave/quality-loss is occurring. Only the metadata is changing.
Am I correct or have I horribly misunderstood this process?

I can appreciate that - my own plug-ins all do their work in linear space as well for the advantages thereof. However, it's not as if one can't get good results with the normal Photoshop tools, which for some reason seem to be out of favor... One can convert to a linear profile to work on it in Photoshop proper, for example (though one has to craft or find a linear profile to use for that, as none is provided by Adobe). I do my astroimage processing that way.
I might change my workflow to involve Camera Raw where JPEGs are concerned IF Camera Raw could be set to write its metadata back to a sidecar file or the central database instead of rewriting the JPEG file. I understand that it is not rewriting the actual image data, but I just don't want it writing back to my JPEGs at all.
-Noel

Problem with RAW to JPEG conversion

Hello everyone,
I have recently switched to shoot my photos in RAW format. I do the usual adjustments in Camera Raw and the hit "Open Image". Next is that I save my image as JPEG with the Maximum Quality. Once I look at my saved JPEG file though I find that most of them have a lot of noise and seem not to reflect any adjustments that I did to the RAW file. What am I doing wrong?

This is the adjustments in "Basic" and "Detail" including the "Before RAW"
After that I hit "Open Image" and then saved it without further adjustments as JPEG, Quality 10. The result of the JPEG when I open it from the Photoshop Organizer is this which I find very noisy.
The disturbing part though is, that the JPEG looks as follows when I search for the JEPG file itself and open it through Picasa viewer. It has way fewer image noise I think.

RAW to Jpeg - file too small

Hello,
I have a 10.2 megapixel camera and I'm importing 16MB RAW/NEF files into Lightroom 3. But when I export them as Jpegs (Quality: 100, AdobeRGB1998, NO "limit file size," NO "resize to fit," Resolution: 300) the files shrink to 5MB AT BEST. That is with no cropping in Lightroom. What do I do to export larger Jpegs? I'm concerned about printing an 11x14 print with a 5MB file.
Thank you!

First you need to Crop to an 11x14 aspect ratio so that you can decide what to cut out. Your camera's file is likely 2:3 or 3:4 aspect ratio.
Next you need to let Lightroom resize on export.
Good settings for JPEG for print at a lab are:
Long Edge: 14 Inches
Resolution: 300 PPI
Quality 84
sRGB or Adobe (Depending upon your lab)
Sharpening appropriate to your image content and paper media.
Megabytes has very little to do with image size printability. It is your pixel dimensions of your file that are the largest determiner.

Format - RAW vs JPEG vs TIFF?

I am new to Aperture and I received a Nikon D3000 for Christmas. I am NOT a professional photographer. I just take pictures of my family and places we go. I would appreciate suggestions as to what format might be best for me. Thanks.

JPEG is the simplest, smallest, probably offers best quality for someone who doesn't want to post-process the image themselves, but offers the least amount of control. When shooting in JPEG format, you can think of the computer inside the camera as being your own little photo-processing department. The camera will not only "capture" the image, it'll post process it by adjusting light levels, white balance, noise levels, sharpening, etc. It's all fully automatic.
HOWEVER... it will ALSO compress the image substantially so that it doesn't take much space. When it does this, it'll decide to reduce the quality of the image in areas where the human eye probably wont notice. This is lost data that you can never really recover. The "problem" here is that if something is over-saturated, too bright, or too dark, etc. a JPEG will just "compress" all the pixels that seem to be "alike" by making them effectively identical. When you later try to adjust the image by editing saturation, highlights, or shadows, you'll discover that the JPEG has clipped off all the detail and the area of the image is flat. This would not happen if you had shot in RAW.
RAW offers you the most control over your image. A RAW image is sort of like the "negative" in a film camera before it's been printed by the photo lab. The camera retains the original data as seen by the sensor at the time the image was captured and does not 2nd guess what the image was supposed to look like. It will make some adjustments, but it will not make any adjustments that are considered "destructive" to the original data. The files will not be compressed -- so the storage of each image will consume much more space on your memory card. Areas of an image that are too bright, too dark, saturated, or blown out and "appear" to be flat, may not actually be flat. You may actually be able to recover data by adjusting the photo -- this is because if too two pixels on the sensor appear to be nearly identical but are not actually identical, RAW will not compress them to be the same color (as JPEG would). It'll store the difference no matter how subtle. When you adjust the image, you may see the detail return.
HOWEVER... some things you may take for granted with a point-and-shoot will NOT be performed on a RAW image. For example, the camera will not attempt to de-noise the image. If you shoot in both RAW and JPEG then compare the results (without doing anything to either image) you should notice that the JPEG actually looks better. But that's because the JPEG was already processed and the RAW was not. After processing the RAW image, you may find that the RAW looks better. RAW is particularly better when you know you'll need to adjusting the images.
TIFF is non-lossy (like RAW) but unlike RAW, TIFF is a fixed standard. E.g. if you need to give someone a non-compressed non-lossy file so they can do more processing with it then you send them TIFF. If you send them RAW you're taking a chance that they wont have any software that can open the file. The "problem" with RAW is that it's more of a concept than a standard. Every model camera seems to have it's own variation on 'RAW' and that's why there's a delay in support from Apple & Adobe to add 'RAW' support for any new model that comes out.

Suspected bug with RAW to jpeg conversion

When clicking done on a RAW image (or double clicking it) in iphoto, why is it that sometimes it works and other times it doesn't?
It seems to work if you make changes to the image but if you merely want to turn it into a jpeg so that you can export it to something like flickr it doesn't seem to work.
This means when I drag my images to flickr export it only accepts jpegs so half my album is not publishable to the web - or viewable by anything outside of iphoto.
Any suggestions?

This is the adjustments in "Basic" and "Detail" including the "Before RAW"
After that I hit "Open Image" and then saved it without further adjustments as JPEG, Quality 10. The result of the JPEG when I open it from the Photoshop Organizer is this which I find very noisy.
The disturbing part though is, that the JPEG looks as follows when I search for the JEPG file itself and open it through Picasa viewer. It has way fewer image noise I think.

Lens correction, and Raw or JPEG

Please bear with me, sometimes I'm a bit slow.
I just loaded a friend's JPEG into ACR, to see if I could fix the distortion. The image has no EXIF. The list of Nikon-fit lenses was much shorter than usual - is this because it is a JPEG, rather than a raw file?
I was surprised that the 16-85mm lens wasn't in the list, as I know this was added in 6.2. After hunting for the LCP files, I see that there is a RAW version only, so this ties in with my guess. So, my next question is: why does Adobe supply two profiles with some lenses (raw + jpeg) and one with others?
I gave up on ACR, and loaded the JPEG into CS5. In CS5 Lens Corrections, I was allowed to assign a raw-only profile to my JPEG. This is good, but why am I allowed here, and not in ACR?
And, a less important question, but niggling nonetheless, and maybe a little off-topic, why does CS5 Lens Correction offer both "NIKON" and "NIKON CORPORATION" as a camera make, when others just have one listing?

Yammer P, yes the list is shorter because it's a jpeg rather than raw, and we have more profiles for raw than for jpeg.
For the set of lenses supported in CS5's initial release, we created profiles for both raw and jpeg. Since then, we have been concentrating on raw-based lens profiles, for a number of reasons (one of which is that we feel we can consistently deliver the highest quality results this way). This is why you see some lenses supported with raw & jpeg profiles, but many more supported with raw only.
CS5's Lens Correction plug-in does indeed let you choose raw-based lens profiles even though it is processing a rendered file (e.g., jpeg, tiff). This will work in many (but not all) cases for distortion correction, but will often work poorly for chromatic aberration and vignette correction. I don't recommend this workflow and it is a key reason we don't let users mix/match in ACR & LR.
Eric

Raw to JPEG shrinks my file size...what can I do?

Here's the problem...while using aperture 2.0, i have RAW images, one in particular is 8.91MB in it's raw format. I make all of my adjustments, then i click Export Version (the version that i like). In the dialog box, I choose JPEG - Original size, and i save to desktop. When I look at the properties of the new JPEG file, it's only 3.5 MB which is too small for my 16x20 enlargement that I want to make of my son for his first christmas on santa's lap. Please help if you can. Thank you much in advance!

[email protected] wrote:
Here's the problem...while using aperture 2.0, i have RAW images, one in particular is 8.91MB in it's raw format. I make all of my adjustments, then i click Export Version (the version that i like). In the dialog box, I choose JPEG - Original size, and i save to desktop. When I look at the properties of the new JPEG file, it's only 3.5 MB which is too small for my 16x20 enlargement that I want to make of my son for his first christmas on santa's lap. Please help if you can. Thank you much in advance!
The short answer is that JPEG is a "lossy" format, meaning that image information is lost with each successive save into JPEG. If possible JPEG should be avoided in the workflow when images may be used for print. Save instead to a lossless format like TIFF or PSD, ideally 16-bit.
The long answer is that even though JPEG is a "lossy" format, JPEG has a quality range from 1 through 12 and there is a huge difference from JPEG-1 to JPEG-12. One single save into JPEG at maximum JPEG quality (12) usually will not be visibly different in hard copy if the original image was well shot. OTOH images can be rendered pretty much illegible with a single save into low JPEG levels.
Bottom line for print is to avoid JPEG like the plague. If JPEG is unavoidable (such as from a low end camera, or when a pic is received already in JPEG format) immediately convert the image to a lossless format like TIFF or PSD before entering the image into a workflow. If JPEG is required for output, only convert to JPEG as the absolute last workflow step, and use the highest JPEG quality that the usage will tolerate.
-Allen Wicks
P.S. The observation above "if the original image was well shot" is critical. A poorly shot image may show JPEG artifacts with a single save into the JPEG format even at highest JPEG quality level. Best is simply to avoid JPEG when feasible.

Poor JPEG quality LR3

Hi,
I have just spent hours and hours editing a number of photos (in RAW format) in LR3, including plenty of adjustments using the the sharpening tool brush, but when it comes to exporting the images to JPEG they resulting images are of poor quality compared to how they look when i have finished editing the RAW files.
So my question is that, how Can i get the JPEGS to more accurately reflect the way the images look after editing, before i exported to JPEG from RAW?
I am shocked at how poor quality they are once exported to JPEG. I mean, why should I have bothered to sharpen the images up myself, for LR3 to then disrgegard these adjusments, leaving me with soft JPEG's??
I am now starting to feel as though this software may be waste of money
a7s

Hi,
I am not sure how I can provide evidence of the problem with both a JPEG and RAW file??! What should i do to allow this??
When i export I select JPEG, Qaulity 100, Sharpen for screen - High. Thats pretty much all i have changed.
The colour space is RGB and the resolution is 720ppi - but i havent touched either of these so dont know what the best setting is - especially for ppi?
When i have both the RAW and JPEG open side by side I can see, for example the creases in someones face nice and clearly on the RAW file, but on the epxorted JPEG these details are lost. I worked hard to retain these details, but in JPEG they are lost!

Achieving lossless JPEG quality?

What is the best way to achieve lossless JPEG quality in Photoshop? Is setting the quality of the file to "maximum" essentially lossless? I've been using .png files a lot more, but some of my clients still don't welcome that format. Thanks!

Lossless JPEG is a bit of a misnomer. It is part of the original JPEG standard (Annex H to CCITT Recommendation T.81), but it does not use the compression technique (DCT compression) that is the primary feature of JPEG, often referred to as JPEG compression. Instead it uses either Hoffmann or arithmetic coding. It also can be used for 16-bit image data, unlike the lossy JPEG format. I'm not sure what the point was to it, given that there are other lossless compressed and non-compressed formats, such as TIFF. It has rarely been implemented, probably for that very reason. According to the
Wikipedia entry for Lossless JPEG, it has been used in some medical imaging applications and is used in, of all things, DNG and some cameras' RAW formats (perhaps the encoding technique is used, rather than the image format). There two other techniques mentioned there: JPEG-2000, mentioned above, and JPEG-LS, which is nearly lossless.

Crashing when exporting Raw to Jpeg Windows

when converting from raw to jpegs sometimes my computer crashes completely, a complete stop!!!!
other times it comes up with problem and needs to shut down listing
AppName: lightroom.exe     AppVer: 3.6.0.10   ModName: msvcr100.dll
ModVer: 10.0.30319.415      Offset: 00010b90
AppName: lightroom.exe     AppVer: 3.6.0.10   ModName: cameraraw.dll
ModVer: 3.6.0.10   Offset: 001fc314
no phone was connected to my pc, the problem is when i run up lightroom, sometimes i can use it then it may suddenly crash the computer switching off completley, other times it says lightroom has a problem and needs too shut down the bout info is what is shown as the problem. hope this helps.

I know this is an old thread, but I have the same problem and am hoping perhaps to get some new feedback. I also have used all the same settings,
the best quality settings that I can do on export, but the quality I get when I convert to JPG is very poor. I do save at 100% because I want to send some of my images to stock agencies that want JPGs but at the very best possible quality. I have experimented in changing the resolution to 300, resizing to 18MP (which is the native size from my camera (Canon 7D), leaving the resizing box unchecked, and tried all all levels and types of sharpening, and none of these settings makes any improvement. I honestly do not think this is an issue of color calibration. The images that I get when I convert from RAW to JPG are are very poor quality, but not so much noise as they appear pixelated. I am going to try to attach a screen capture of a RAW image and a JPG that has been converted. Realize there is a bit of loss of quality in both of these images as they were done by the print screen function, then saved as BMP and then JPG..But doing it this way actually produced a much better quality image than exporting the RAW file to JPG in LR3. Both of these images were saved at 100%
The image at the top is a small segment of the RAW capture at 100% and the bottom one is a segment of the same area of the exported JPG at 100% Note the writing and how it is very pixelated. I think you would agree that it is quite a deterioration in quality. Any suggestions you have would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
Message was edited by: wyeaton
I'm sorry that the images do not appear to be showing up on the thread. They do show up when I uploaded them and when I edit them, but I don't see them once I do the update. Any suggestions there would be appreciated as well.
Thanks.

The raw portion of a referenced master got separated from its jpeg pair when I was relocating originals. Can I recombine the raw and jpeg pair?

Hi, I'm a fairly new Aperture user and have just started storing my photos on an external hard drive. An error message appeared when I was relocating originals of a project. It stopped relocating at one image, saying that the jpeg file did not exist. I found the raw file name under the new project folder that I was relocating it to, but it's jpeg pair did not move. The file names look identical except one ends in .JPG and the other as .NEF. I tried to combine originals, but I got the same error message and when I looked at the files the raw now had (1) attached to it, whereas the jped didn't. The Aperture window started to close unexpectedly many times. I tried Repair Permissions and Repair Database and that seemed to stop Aperture from closing unexpectedly, but the raw and jpeg pair are still in separate folders. How can I get them paired up again or does it matter? I'm using Mac OS X and Aperture version 3.4.5.
Thanks,
sophie

If you don't take care when choosing the location for referenced images, you can create some problems for yourself.
From an operational perspective 'Managed' images means Aperture will take care of the image file storage for you, 'Referenced' means you will take care of it yourself.
There are a number of things that may have happened but this is what I think is most likely:
If you shoot a lot of photos with the same brand of camera, eventually you'll end up with duplicate file names, for example two different files called DSC_1234.NEF. If you attempt to store these in the same folder yourself, worse case scenario is you may inadvertently overwite one of the files. If you use Aperture to relocate, you'll get one of the files with a new name of DSC_1234 (1).NEF.
So your first step is to figure out what these files really are. Are they duplicates, or are they different files with the same name, and do they each have a matching .JPG
Aperture has the tools to fix up the problem, but you need to confirm what the problem is first.
If you don't have many of the (1) files, it may be worth continuing your 'relocate' to subfolders - making sure your subfolder hierarchy doesn't cause duplicate names to be stored together. Then when everything else is stored correctly, address the problem images by moving them to where they should be, with the right name and the JPG/NEF pairs together.
You can then search for missing files in Aperture and use the 'Locate Referenced Images' to reconnect them with Aperture.
Andy

Raw to jpeg quality

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