Re: Battery Calibration tool

Try the new version of Battery Calibration tool for W10.
http://download.msi.com/uti_exe/nb/MSI%20Battery%20Calibration_v1.0.1505.2901.zip

What does device manager report for your ethernet port? does it show up?
Perhaps try drivers directly from Killer: http://www.killernetworking.com/support/driver-downloads

Similar Messages

  • Battery Calibration and Charge Capacity?

    I am currently using a PB G4 15" (high res DL SD) and I've had it for about a month. I just read about calibrating the battery and went ahead and did it. Have I done any damage to the battery or shortened it's effectiveness by waiting a month to calibrate rather than when it was first out of the box?
    Also, i also just read about checking the battery charge capacity using the system profiler. My charge capacity prior to calibration was 2731 and after calibration it's 2930. However, it sounds like it should be in the 4400's based on the posts I've read. What do these numbers mean and do I have a faulty battery since it's so low?
    Thanks for your help.

    Hi Kevin --
    Yeah, I'm not loving those numbers you posted either. I'd try performing the calibration procedure once or twice more to make sure that that battery capacity number doesn't change.
    The other thing I would do if I were you is download Coconutbattery: http://www.versiontracker.com/dyn/moreinfo/macosx/27425
    It's a free app available at versiontracker and it will tell you your battery's original capacity as well as it's current capacity.
    I agree with you that a capacity of 2930 mAh after only a month of use and 16 cycles suggests that your battery is defective and should be replaced at no cost to you under the terms of the warranty.
    For a frame of reference, after 10 months of use and 166 load cycles, my battery's original capacity of 4400 mAh is now 4228 mAh. No way yours should be in the 2930 mAh range.
    When you call AppleCare to arrange for a replacement, if in fact that's what you end up needing to do, the agent you speak with, in addition to making sure that you've properly calibrated your battery a few times (as mentioned earlier) may also ask that you reset your PB's Power Management Unit (PMU). While I'm skeptical that a PMU reset will alter the outcome, you can find instructions on how to reset the PMU here (just in case you need to): http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=14449
    Good luck and please post back how everything turns out.
    -- JDee
    PS. You probably know this, but the calibration procedure has been changed slightly for your DL hi-res version of the PB. Here it is below, just to make sure:
    PowerBook G4 (15-inch Double-Layer SD)
    The battery calibration for the PowerBook G4 (15-inch Double-Layer SD) has been updated because of a new battery released with this computer. With these computers, follow these steps to calibrate your battery:
    Plug in the power adapter and fully charge your PowerBook's battery until the light ring on the power adapter plug changes to green and the onscreen meter in the menu bar indicates that the battery is fully charged.
    Allow the battery to rest in the fully charged state for at least two hours. You may use your computer during this time as long as the adapter is plugged in.
    Disconnect the power adapter with the computer still on and start running the computer off battery power. You may use your computer during this time. When your battery gets low, you will see the low battery warning dialog on the screen.
    Continue to keep your computer on until it goes to sleep. Save all your work and close all applications when the battery gets very low, before the computer goes to sleep.
    Turn off the computer or allow it to sleep for five hours or more.
    Connect the power adapter and leave it connected until the battery is fully charged again.
    Tip: When the battery reaches "empty", the computer is forced into sleep mode. The battery actually keeps back a reserve beyond "empty", to maintain the computer in sleep for a period of time. Once the battery is truly exhausted, the computer is forced to shut down. At this point, with the safe sleep function introduced in the PowerBook G4 (15-inch Double-Layer SD) computers, the computer's memory contents have been saved to the hard drive. When power is restored, the computer returns itself to its pre-sleep state using the safe sleep image on the hard drive.
    Message was edited by: JDee

  • Calibration tool for 24" LED Display

    Greetings, I'm currently using the 24" display with my MacBook Pro and am looking for calibration tool recommendations. I went to the Apple store and they sold me the Huey Pro from Pantone. I haven't opened it yet as I saw it had mixed reviews. It also says it's for CRT's and LCD's. Has anyone tried it on the 24" LED monitor? Successes/failures appreciated.
    Thanks.

    Brightness and Contrast settings are both dictated by ambient light in the room. There is no set point, and so day and night modes are used for this reason. For this properly setup, you need to use a test pattern which shows the greyscale detail and increments from black to white. Typically "pluge" or blinking patterns are used as well.
    After setting those up, you DO NOT want ambient light present when using your meter. Meter's don't have peripheral vision like we do to compensate for room lighting tones... therefore, either work in the dark, or drape something over the sensor & screen.
    Here is a free download to get some patterns:
    http://spectracal.com/download_HTPC.html
    Good luck.

  • HT1880 Is there a calibration tool foor iPhoto and the printing of books (dark results)

    Hi, Not satisfied with the result of a very expensive and therefore unusable iPhoto Book, due to the dark prints of the images, I am looking for a calibration tool. Does anyone know of its existence? Or is it just aquestion of lowering the color density of your photo's before, with iPhoto? And, if yes, at what rate do they have to adjusted?
    Thank you for an answer, sicerely, Jos

    Don't know if you can set the camera to use a different RGB profile for future photos. 
    To convert existing files to sRGB you can download and use this Automator workflow application, Convert to JPG anbd Embed sRGB profile, on the original files.  However, you would have to export the orignals out of iPhoto, run the app on them and reimport them.  You can download the app from  Toad's Cellar. 
    For future photos you can upload them to a folder on the Desktop and run the app on them there before importing.
    Contact Apple, tell them about the problem and they probably will refund the purchase price.  If you reorder then you're on your own from then on.  Be sure to create a PDF of the book as described in this Apple document, iPhoto '11: Preview a book, card, or calendar before you order or print it, before you order it and save the pdf for comparison to the printed version after you receive it. 

  • KB article 1490 on battery calibration needs work

    http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1490 says:
    "Disconnect the power adapter while the computer still on and start running the computer off battery power. You may use your computer during this time."
    Does “running” mean something different than “use”? Does this instruction mean the computer should not be allowed to sleep?
    [And fix the typo: "still on" should be "still is on".]

    Assuming that, then -- do both terms mean the computer 1) can or 2) cannot be put to sleep?
    The context here is the instructions are for "Apple Portables: Calibrating your computer's battery for best performance". The instruction in question is #3 for
    PowerBook G4 (15-inch Double-Layer SD), MacBook (all models), MacBook Pro (all models), MacBook Pro (17-inch) (all models) and MacBook Air
    The battery calibration for the PowerBook G4 (15-inch Double-Layer SD) and any model of MacBook or MacBook Pro has been updated because of a new battery released with this computer. With these computers, follow these steps to calibrate your battery:
    1. Plug in the power adapter and fully charge your PowerBook's battery until the light ring or LED on the power adapter plug changes to green and the onscreen meter in the menu bar indicates that the battery is fully charged.
    2. Allow the battery to rest in the fully charged state for at least two hours. You may use your computer during this time as long as the adapter is plugged in.
    3. Disconnect the power adapter while the computer still on and start running the computer off battery power. You may use your computer during this time. When your battery gets low, the low battery warning dialog appears on the screen.
    4. At this point, save your work.  Continue to use your computer; when the battery gets very low, the computer will automatically go to sleep.
    5. Turn off the computer or allow it to sleep for five hours or more.
    6. Connect the power adapter and leave it connected until the battery is fully charged again.
    Does the calibration process require, in step 3, that the computer be kept awake? It seems likely, given step 4, that step 3 allows the computer to be in either the wake state or sleep state.
    My interest is in clarifying whether the calibration process requires that battery draw-down be relatively quick (as when the computer is awake) or does speed not matter (i.e., the computer can be either awake or asleep).

  • Apple display calibration tool messes everything up?

    So I recently had my display clamshell replaced on my mbpr 15" for the bright mura spots that I had. I noticed when I got it back that I must've gotten a samsung display because everything was just a tinge too yellow. I prefer it to the cool bluish whites of the LG display I had before though. I wanted to try the screen calibration tool to try and calibrate the white balance though. When you do this, you also have to calibrate the gamma though. For some reason, the tool ALWAYS messes up the gamma correction, I'm not sure how. The native gamma of the display is 2.2, exactly what it should be. For some reason, when I go through and do all of those apple logo tests where you're supposed to make the logo disappear into the background, it winds up calculating that the native gamma of the display is somewhere around 1.5 to 1.7, which is utterly wrong. I would say no big deal, because I can just tick the checkbox that says "use native gamma of display" and presumably it'd leave the gamma alone, right? So I check the box, and on a graphic I have (zoomed to 100% or actual size) the colors even out at 2.2, which means the display is calibrated to gamma 2.2. So I proceed to adjust the white balance to what I want, just a titch cooler than the native white balance. Then I click continue, and on the very last screen of the calibration tool, it changes the gamma to 2.6. EVERY TIME. Without fail, even if I slide the gamma slider all the way to 1.0 when I reach the last screen it makes it 2.6. How? I have zero ideas. But it's driving me NUTS. All I want to do is adjust the white balance, I don't even want to touch the gamma, but for some reason I can't do that without raising my gamma to 2.6. Anybody? Please, this is going to make me insane.

    Can anyone confirm this on their MacBook?

  • What color calibration tool do I use to calibrate my MacBook Pro screen to get accurate color when I print my my photos?

    What color calibration tool do I use to calibrate my MacBook Pro screen in order to get accurate color when I print my photos?

    This what I have been trying......  Maybe my eyes are screwed up or don't understand the process....
    What I have been trying to do is squint and make the apple disappear by moving the sliders around in each step. Is that correct?

  • Messed up battery calibration

    Hi,
    I just received my MB Pro today and I messed up doing the initial battery calibration. I assumed the process as the same as my PowerBook G4 (charge battery to full, use computer until it sleeps, recharge again). I later looked up how to do it for the MB Pro and you have to leave it on full power for 2 hours, and then when it sleeps allow it to do so for 5 hours. Is it a big deal that I did the initial calibration wrong? Can I just do it over the correct way without worrying about it? Or is it even necessary at this point?
    Thanks
    Message was edited by: mrurmil

    No worries. You can (and should) just repeat it following the proper steps. It's best to calibrate every 2 months or so.
    Hope this helps...

  • Found a GREAT display Calibration Tool!

    If you are like me, you are probably not very satisfied with the look of your MBPs display profile out of the box. Apple's COLOR calibration system is pretty lame and it makes it almost impossible to get the screen to look right!
    Having just switched over from a Powerbook G4 that had a perfectly calibrated display, I had been struggling for days to get this new MBP 15" to look as good. Something was always not right. Either there was a green or blue tint to the screen, the gamma was not low enough so everything looked washed out etc.
    I stumbled upon an EXCELLENT little FREE tool called SuperCal that worked like magic on finally getting my screen to look right. It still took a couple of tries, but unlike the Apple calibration tool, you can EDIT EXISTING PROFILES created in SuperCal, so you can go back and TWEAK your settings until you have everything nailed!
    Check it out!
    http://www.bergdesign.com/supercal/
    I would post a link to my final profile for you to try, but I can't seem to get the file to download right when I try it on here.

    I am pretty sure that what I described is not a hardware problem. The whites are white and the blacks are black, but blues and greens were slightly off. They aren't anymore. ;o)
    I'm pretty sure that this is standard on all new MBPs.
    The display setting out of the box is over-saturated and the GAMMA is set way too low causing a washed out image. I've seen the same thing at the Apple store.
    Having owned Macs for the last 25 years, and currently owning two large Cinemas that have been calibrated using a Colortron, I am speaking from experience here. The shift I referred to is subtle and most users would probably never notice it. Especially if they have nothing calibrated to compare it to.
    Never the less, I am taking the machine in to an Apple Store on Monday to have this vibrating 7200rpm drive replaced, so I will switch the display back to the "un-calibrated stock setting" and see what the Apple folks have to say. I am pretty sure that they will say it looks fine to them, since most of the display Macs I see at these stores are not calibrated either.
    Only displays I see looking right there are the large Cinema displays like the two I own. Probably because Apple wants people to see a HUGE difference between those and a standard laptop display. LOL!
    The fact is... With some tweaking using a good software based tool like SuperCal, you can get one of these MBPs to look "almost" as good as a hardware calibrated Cinema display that cost me more than this entire laptop did! ;o)
    I haven't priced hardware calibration tools recently. I had my Cinemas done by a shop since at that time the device used on mine was several thousand dollars to purchase.

  • Kernel panic after battery calibration

    My aluminium macbook was working nice until I did a battery calibration. Now all the applications are crashing: Safari, itunes, skype... Safari always crashes when I right click on a link and after some minutes the all system just crashed: kernel panic. How can I fix this. Is it a software issue or a hardware one? Does the kernel panic has something to do with the kernel panic?
    Thanks for your help

    Kernal panics are usually caused by hardware.
    User Tips: Kernel Panics
    http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1392

  • Q on battery calibration after reading KBs

    I have a late model unibody Macbook Pro 17" with the 1000 cycle battery; and I've read the Apple information regarding battery calibration, (along with http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=1764220), as well as comments by Mac users,
    The confusing part to me is that in the article I sited below, it states:
    +Failure to do so for a long period of time can result in the microchip "fuel gauge" in the battery losing the ability to accurately determine the remaining charge, and it will report that there is more charge in the battery than is actually present. As a result, the computer will not initiate Safe Sleep at the proper time, and instead undergo a hard shut down, one of the main causes of hard drive directory damage. Once the battery is in the state resulting from a failure to calibrate, it is not possible to calibrate the battery, and it will need to be replaced.+
    First of all, this sounds like if you fail to calibrate frequently enough, then if you do calibrate, you ruin the battery and it has to be replaced. Is that correct?
    If it is correct, then it seems fantastically irresponsible to tell people that recalibration really isn't necessary if you use your battery regularly, because if the "fuel gauge" gets off, your screwed.
    So, if I am using my UMBP in the on-the-train scenario Apple states as ideal (which sounds like the first hour of the day w/o the charger, then on the charger), calibrate or no, and every one month or every three?
    Also, how can running the battery to 0% be bad for it, but calibration (running it to 0% every once in a while) not be bad for it?
    And isn't it nerve wracking to calibrate and not really know if the battery will survive the calibration if you forgot to do it for a while? That is what the quote above implies.
    Just as little confused is all.

    If you don't use the battery now and then and re-calibrate every couple of months then you won't get the best performance and life span from it. It's unlikely a single re-calibration would render it dead but that's not impossible if it's not been looked after.
    Re-calibration does not run the battery down to 0% simply below 5% - you're taking it from a state of maximum charge to minimum charge and back again - rather like a bungie rope.
    It's not going to die if you forget and don't re-calibrate for three months, but if you never re-calibrate for years it's not the best use of the battery.

  • Any harm in using computer during battery calibration?

    Hello,
    I have a new 13" MBP running SL 10.6.2 and I am doing my battery calibration for the first time. I have completed the initial charging, the depletion, and over 5 hours of forced sleep. I am now about to begin the final charging of the battery (Step 6 of http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1490 ). The knowledge base article doesn't mention use/non-use during this step.
    Can I use the computer during this final charging or should I wait until the charging is complete? I'd like to do what is best for the calibration cycle.
    Thank you in advance for any help.

    I am sorry, I just noticed I posted this in the wrong forum section.

  • Calibration tools missing

    -
    I have just noticed the lens and camera calibration tools are completely absent from my copy of lightroom. I have the latest version. I have tried to reinstall using the disk image I downloaded without success. Any suggestions about how to proceed?

    Try Ctl/Right-clicking on one of the heades in the Develop panel and re-check the hidden element Lens COrrection. You can hide/unhide any of them this way in any panel.
    Don
    Don Ricklin, MacBook 2Ghz Duo 2 Core running 10.5.1 & Win XP, Pentax *ist D
    See LR Links list at my
    Blog for related sites.

  • Software monitor calibration tool???

    Hi,
    We are on a photo production right now and I have to work on pictures with my MBP. Bought a 23 Cinema to have more space to work but can't get a calibration tool. Is there any "good" software tool available beside the Apple built in tool??
    What would you recommend to do while we are on the road??
    Appreciate your feedback.
    Thanks
    R

    I have used several software calibration tools and find that they are not worth the trouble.
    IMO you will do better to let color adjust by the numbers. (i.e. R=G=B is white, gray, black). Also if you make an bit of an effort you will adapt to your monitor.
    The adaptability of a human viewer is why things don't look green to you in a flourescent lighting environment. It also makes software calibrations very spotty.
    The Apple monitors have some limitations in the LUT (look up table). Most calibrations (even hardware calibrations) wind up shifing your white-point to a warmer balance (a good thing) but at the same time they reduce shadow detail visible (a very bad thing) because they reduce the number of shades/colors that the monitor can display.
    A really good package won't try to calibrate your Apple monitor (calibrate means to change), instead it will profile your monitor (profile means to describe).
    If you want to try software calibration don't spend too much on your package. You probably won't want to use it for long. My advice is stick to the Apple profiles until you can get a good hardware profiling package.
    P.S. If you search this forum you will find some early problems that some users had with Aperture not property interpreting some types of profiles. I recall probelms in v1.1 with large profiles from Gretag Macbeth Profile Maker 5. There may be others

  • GS70 - Battery Calibration utility does not work (any longer)

    Hi folks
    Just got myself a brand new GS70 Stealth notebook. I got the pre-installed battery calibration utility to run OK once, but a few days laters it just quickly flashes 2 windows one after the other and is gone / crashed.
    Of course it might be something I did (upgraded BIOS, drivers, installed some apps), but I still need to find out what, otherwise it might happen again even after I reset to factory settings.
    I scanned all 33 threads of this forum found with the search "battery calibration", and found only one which describes something similar:
      https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=165389.0;nowap
    However the symptoms are not the same (I have Windows 8 and my other utilities KLM & SCM are working fine), and that thread is too old anyway. So a couple of questions to the community:
    1) does anybody experience the same failed start issue, with GS70 or other?
    2) can anybody advise on how to debug the battery calibration utility to try and find out where it crashed? (found no logfile)
    (note: I also tried to upgrade .NET to 4.5.1 as it seems to be used, no change)
    I will eventually contact MSI about this, but I thought that I would ask around first. Thanks for any help...

    Okay, just found the answer by myself: The battery calibration utility depends on a service "Micro Star SCM" (MSIService.exe), which I had disabled.
    Setting the service start mode to "manual" was enough to solve the problem, the utility starts again.
    Hope this can help someone else.

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