Recommended First Battery Charge

Hi everyone. Im receiving my 8Gb iphone tomorrow and I was wondering how long should I leave it charging for the first time? Ive seen many of you having problems with battery life and Ive looked everywhere but Apple doesnt state anything.
With all my previous phones, as soon as I bought them either on the manual or the service provider's salesperson would specify how long the first charge would be. Its something about charging it a long long time so it's programmed to full capacity, cause if the first time you charge it for just a little while or the typical 2 hours, the battery wont use its whole capacity. Such as with laptops. May be a myth for all I know but its worked with my laptops and my cell phones so far.
So does anyone have an idea of how long should I charge the phone for th efirst time?
Id really appreciate it. Thanks! Susana

You can only charge the iPhone's battery or any battery until it is completely charged. The battery's charge can't go past full - the charging process will stop when full.
Some people like to "season" their battery which I don't think makes much if any difference but to do this, make sure the battery is completely charged.
Use it until the iPhone shuts down automatically - which it will do when the battery is depleted.
Charge it completely - don't disconnect it until completely charged.
http://www.apple.com/batteries/
http://www.apple.com/batteries/iphone.html

Similar Messages

  • IPhone 5s first battery charge

    I have just gotten a brand new iPhone 5s and just ran out of battery: how long should I keep it plugged-in for the first battery charge?
    iPhone 5s, iOS 7.1.2

    Do whatever you like. Leave it until it's fully charged if you don't need to walk away from the charger with it, or leave it on charge for as long or as little as you like. The best way to look after the battery is to stop yourself inventing rules. Lithium batteries do better when they are exercised. The only thing which you are better avoiding is to do what most people think is good:  run it down until it dies, then charge it to 100%, then run it down until it dies...   This is not good for lithium batteries.   
    Charge it whenever a charger is to hand, regardless of the current state of charge, and don't worry about it.

  • First battery charge and current issues?

    Hi!
    I just bought a new MacBook (2.0 GHz, 160 GB). I have two quick questions:
    1. I plugged in my AC adapter, turned on the notebook for about 5 minutes to make sure it works fine, etc, then shut it down to let the battery charge. Would I have lost any battery capacity by not fully charging the battery first? And do I need to let the battery run through a full cycle when I first use the computer to ensure full capacity?
    2. Are there any updates/best practices for the 2008 (December) MacBook batteries? I know there was an issue in 2007, but for the new line am I set to go? And is it still best practice to put shut the Mac down instead of putting it to sleep to save wear and tear on the hard-drive/battery?
    sorry for all the questions: it has been 5 years since I bought my last notebook so I am a bit rusty/excited!

    See the following:
    About Batteries in Modern Apple Laptops
    Apple - Batteries - Notebooks
    Extending the Life of Your Laptop Battery
    Apple - Batteries
    Determining Battery Cycle Count
    Calibrating your computer's battery for best performance
    Battery University

  • First battery charge

    Plugged my Ipod shuffle (512mb) into my USB to charge for the 1st time and it blinks for about 10 seconds....it stops blinking or charging after I start using the computer...any ideas what i am doing wrong?

    It doesn't have to be fully charged the first time; this is a myth promulgated by the uneducated. To calibrate your battery meter (make it more closely reflect the actual state of charge), charge it up by connecting it to your peecee for 3-4 hours, then start it playing and put the hold switch on. Then leave it alone until the battery finally dies.

  • My iPod dies!!! after the first battery charge cycle

    Hi,
    Last month I bought a 30GB iPod video through Amazon when I was on vacations on the US, now I'm in my hometown Lima (Peru)... well, for the month I had the iPod, everything worked fine, but I've never let the battery died, I mean I've always have it fully charged and never get the "not enougth battery message".. until yesterday when it suddenly stops playing.
    Well I tough it was nothing so I turn the iPod on again and there was the Apple logo (it was the second time I saw it, the first was on the firmware update), then I get the not enough battery sign, I tougth it was ok.... then I get home, connect to the USB port I always use to synchronize it, and NOTHING happens!!!, the computer does not reconigze it, and it doesn't turn on either, there's nothing on the screen, but I did have noticed something: the iPod was hot, I immediately disconnect it from the USB (it was plugged for about 10 seconds), I've tried to reset it (procedure I've just learned since I've never had any problems with the iPod)... and no matter what i did, it didn't turn on.
    I don't think the problem is the USB port because I try to connect a USB drive, and it works.
    The questions is...what can I do to fix it?, I'm sure my iPod is covered by the "Apple One-Year Limited Warranty" but the problem is that I'm in Lima!! do I have to send the iPod to the US?? pleeease help me!! I save a year to be able to buy an iPod and now it isn't working!!
    Thanks in advance.
    AMD Athlon XP 2400+ Windows XP Pro

    Thank u, Ryan, Masna and Kpxjoon...and of course I've tried the 5 R's... I think I've read every single post to find if anyone had a similar problem.. anyway
    So.. Broken? how? ... well that's what I thought in first place, that I would have to send the it for service, the biggest problem is that I'm not in the US now, I bought the iPod on the US through Amazon (the shipping address was on the US too)... well now in Lima (Peru), I live here and I wouldn't return to the US anytime soon, Does the warranty still work in here??
    I went to iPod Service Request site... and bad news for me again "If you cannot find the country you are looking for.... If you live outside these countries, please contact your local Apple Authorized Service Provider."
    I found some Authorized Service Centers in Lima, do I have to take the iPod to them and they will fix or replace it with no charge, even though I purchase the iPod on the US??... it was my biggest worry since the beginning...
    The iPod and it's package is in perfect shape, it evens has the plastic wrap, which it comes with...and I keep it in a case, so there's almost no scratches on it, and it's just a MONTH old!!!...I'm not worry about the data, 'cause everything is on my iTunes Library... I just want my iPod back
    Sorry for posting so often, Thank u very much for ur time

  • The new iPad first battery charge issue

    I just got the new iPad, I waited for the battery to die and the I let it charge for 14 hours and it only charged from 2% to 37%, then I changed the power cord and the outlet and it took it 5 hours from 37% to 100%. Is this normal? 19 hours from 2% to 100%, seriously? I know that iPads take a long time to fully charge the battery, but I think this is unusual. Thanks already for the answers...

    You're welcome.  All the USB cords are the same, so it doesn't matter which USB cable your use.  The difference is in the Charger the USB cable is connected to.
    I don't know if you know this, but the User Guide is conveniently bookmarked in Safari on your iPad.  It might help you to read it and I'll bet you'll learn things about your iPad you didn't know.  Plus, if you ever get into trouble, you can refer to the guide for assistance.
    Take care......

  • First time battery charge

    Hello,
    I just got myself a new 13-inch Macbook Pro retina display. I've been reading about the first battery charge and how to use it later on, but I have another question on the first charge:
    For the first charge, do I need to turn the Macbook off or can I use it while it charges for the first time, full charge.
    Thank you!

    Hi j,
    You can use it, just make sure you charge it all the way up before disconnecting the power adapter. Enjoy!

  • The first boot of iphone 5 is not possible due to lack of battery charge , it happened after charging, is there s any issue of battery life

    the first boot of iphone 5 is not possible due to lack of battery charge , it happened after charging, is there s any issue of battery life

    Charge the phone for 15 minutes with the Apple charger. Then hold the HOME and SLEEP buttons at the same time until an Apple logo appears.

  • New 9 Cell S10 Battery-Advcie For First Time Charge and After?

    Did search on first time charge for laptop batteries. I just picked up a 9 cell laptop battery for my S10. What is the best way to keep the life of these battries long. Read discharge fully then charge for 12 hours. Read charge fully then discharge 3 x's.
    Any one know for sure? Please advise!-Thanks.
    PS- the battery came charged at 81%.

    Hi ... i did the first 3 x times charged full / empty .. later you can charge if you want / need  the battery ... if you use long period of time plugged with psu (week, month)  ... its better to eject the battery ..
    store at cool & dry place... and use it when you want mobile
    thats only my suggestion
    sincerely KalvinKlein  
    Thinkies 2x X200s/X301 8GB 256GB SSD @ Win 7 64
    Ideas Centre A520 ,Yoga 2 256GB SSD,Yoga 2 tablet @ Win 8.1

  • I bought Macbook Air early 2014. Ever since i bought it to turn it on after a long ie. 5hr - 6hr i have to first charge it for at least 15 mins and sometimes it wont turn on for 3hr - 4hr and then it will turn on regardless of the battery charged.

    I bought Macbook Air early 2014. Ever since i bought it to turn it on after a long ie. 5hr - 6hr i have to first charge it for at least 15 mins and sometimes it wont turn on for 3hr - 4hr and then it will turn on regardless of the battery charged. If i had put it on sleep even then it wont turn on it will work as usual as it is suppose to do. I went to icare twice and they game me the device back after 1-2 weeks saying it is now not giving any issue but when i will used it next morning again same thing happened. It's like i can never go out anywhere with the laptop outside as i have to first charge it and then turn it on. Icare wont replace my device they only say if there is any issue with the hardware we will replace that hardware but i think it is useless because they don't know what the issue is. Can someone help me out what to do now ? It's been to iCare ever since i bought it now i don't want them to again do the same thing.

    Hi ..
    Follow the instructions for resetting the SMC >  Intel-based Macs: Resetting the System Management Controller (SMC) - Apple Support

  • T520: Slice battery charging thresholds stuck

    I bought a T520 (4240) a few months ago and, like most people around here had the same issues with pulsing fans and, on applying BIOS 1.28, CPU throttling issues. I'm not sure if the latter one is fixed properly yet, but I also have a problem with the battery charging thresholds that has me stumped.
    I have the 55++ and 27++ 9-cell main and "slice" batteries. For a while I let them charge up to 100% whenever connected to AC, but then I read that a 100% charge level is not recommended for day-to-day operation.
    I use Fedora 15 Linux 99.9% of the time on my T520. I wanted to set the battery charge thresholds to avoid the 100% charge level, but the "tp_smapi" Linux driver doesn't work for the T520 (yet). I read somewhere that if I were to set the charge thresholds with the Lenovo Power Manager in Windows 7, that they would work in Linux as long as the laptop was not completely powered down when switching from Windows to Linux (i.e., use a warm boot). Well, it worked. In fact it worked really well: I could even power down and remove the batteries and something, somewhere would still remember that I wanted to start charging the slice battery when it dropped below 35% and stop charging it at 80%, even when running Fedora 15.
    Having used the machine for a few weeks, I found that I used it on battery power a lot and liked to "top up" the batteries over night. The 35/80 thresholds didn't really suit my working pattern. So, back in the Power Manageer in Windows, I changed the battery thresholds from 35/80 to 50/88 for both batteries (55++ and 27++). On booting back to Linux, I noted that the main battery would respect the new levels, but he slice battery was still stuck on 35/80. Back in Windows, I tried changing the levels in different ways, but the slice battery refused to charge to more than 80%, even under Windows, no matter what I did. It seems that my first change from the default (is it 96/100?) to 35/80 has gotten stuck somewhere and I cannot change it again.
    I even notice in the Power Manager that the slice battery constantly toggles between charging and not charging when under AC power if I set the threshold to 85/90. Because the 80% level where the battery is stuck is lower than 85% (my new "start" threshold), charging kicks in, but it immediately stops again, as it won't go over 80%, then, of course, it starts again and stops again, and so on.
    How do I fully reset the charge thresholds on the slice battery so I can exceed 80% charge?

    I had kind of given up on this, but thank you KooMaster for your confirmation that I am not alone with this issue. I don't think this is a problem with the Lenovo or Windows software, as this happens to me when running Linux without either of those. My guess is that the problem is in the embedded controller (EC) firmware. It is responsible for charging the batteries and enforcing the charging thresholds (that's why they still work even when the machine is turned off).
    It probably makes sense to charge each battery to 80% first, as it likely only takes half of the overall charge time to get to that level (the last 20% taking as long again). That way, we get both batteries to a useful charge level as fast as possible. However, based on your observations, it seems that someone in Lenovo forgot to tell the EC to check that the main battery has reached its upper charge threshold, not that it has reached 100%, before topping the slice battery up to its upper charging threshold.
    Can someone in Lenovo please comment on this issue, as I raised it over seven months ago now and I haven't heard a single word from any of you about it? "KooMaster" has confirmed the problem on a different model with different batteries, so it seems highly likely that a quick check of the (shared?) EC firmware code and a patch will resolve this quite quickly.
    (I updated my BIOS and EC firmware today and it made no difference to my problem.)

  • Any way to stop battery charging at under 100%?

    Research has shown that a battery kept at 40% charge will retain 96% of capacity after 1 year (at 25 degrees C), while a battery kept at 100% charge will retain only 80% of capacity after the same period of time.
    Is there any way to control the maximum charge level, so that the battery stops charging after a certain point (say, 40%, or 75%). Thanks.

    Lyssa wrote:
    Do you have a link for the article you read that has this info? I'd love to read it!
    Like the above poster said, you can't control how long the battery charges--unless you unplug the cord yourself.
    I would like to mention something for you. My battery is 11 months old, and has maintained 98% of its original capacity. Within the next 4 weeks, it will hit the one-year mark, and I don't anticipate it failing on me before it has reached the typical lifespan of ~300 charge cycles. I wouldn't be surprised if it hangs on for another 100! It currently has 264 to its credit. I think my battery is doing pretty well--and I run off it for a few hours nearly ever day
    Of course that's an expected outcome with most lithium rechargeable batteries. However - they do have their drawbacks including an inherent loss of total capacity from the aging process.
    The best thing for your battery is to USE it, even if you're sitting at your desk much of the time. Unhook the power charger for 30 minutes, or an hour, then reattach it. If it doesn't seem to be working properly, calibrate it.
    It all depends. Using a battery and charging it to near maximum by definition cut capacity because of some loss of the electrolyte solvent when it gets vented. In NiMH batteries, the solvent is water. It's a non-water solvent for lithium rechargeables. If it's not vented, it could potentially explode. Using a battery every day will result in noticeable loss of capacity. There's a balance to overuse and underuse of a lithium rechargeable battery. Apple recommends that a battery be partially drained at least once a month. My MacBook is set up with an iCal reminder to use battery power once a month.
    The 40% you mentioned from the article is something I've heard before, but I believe it was mentioned in relation to storing your computer for an extended period of time(ie several weeks). If you wanted your battery to be healthy when you returned, you wanted to store it after you'd partially discharged the battery.
    I've brought up the extreme case of first generation hybrid car batteries. They employ a different strategy for charging that takes advantage of an always present charging source (the internal combustion engine and generator). They take advantage of the extreme case where the battery is intentionally kept between 40-65% of charge nearly all of the time. Going a little bit under or over this isn't a big deal. This keeps it from the extremes of near max charge and near min charge; both tend to reduce battery capacity for different reasons. The electrical output is only a supplementary power source used during peak demand periods. I've heard of some original batteries from Toyota Prius taxis that have survived 400K miles of service; that probably meant 100,000-200,000 of the shallow charge-discharge cycles. The fact that only a small range is needed means that they can continue this use for a long time. It probably would have been noticeably degraded after maybe 1000-2000 20-100% deep discharge cycles. The total amount of energy drawn over the lifespan is many times with the small discharges compared to deep discharges. You're typically using 25% of the charge hundreds of thousands of times rather than 80% of the charge a few thousand times.

  • Tecra 550 cdt - battery/charging

    Hi,
    how can I tell whether my laptop is charging batteries - and the battery is a dud - or the battery is fine, but the laptop is not charging the battery?
    thanks

    Hi
    I dont know if I understand you right but it sounds like your notebook cannot charge the battery. Am I right?
    Well, firstly you should check if your AC adaptor is ok and if the notebook runs with main power.
    If its clear so you can try to check the battery pin connection. Remove the battery for a while and after several time put it again.
    Then check if the battery will charge.
    If not so its possible that the battery is dead. In this case you should check if the new battery will solve your problem.
    Its also possible that there is something wrong with the battery charging electronic. In this case I would recommend contacting the Toshiba service partner in your country. The guys should check the notebook.
    By the way; you can purchase the compatible battery also from the service partner.

  • Battery Charge on 2013 MBPr 15

    Regarding to some posts;
    a. To maintain a healthy battery on my newly purchased MBPr 15 inch, I am to drain the battery to around 20% before charing it again. Since this will minimize the no. of charge cycles the batter will have to undergo. It is very bad to leave the charger on after your mac's battery hits 100% since it will do something like a trickle charge. (continuously charging your battery once it drains 1% 99<->100)
    b. The new MPBr chargers are using new technology which does not trickle charge the Mac. Therefore, even if i leave the charger on after fully charging my battery, it would not damage the battery. (With that being said, it is still healthy for the battery if i unplug it and do a complete drain down to like 5%)
    Just wanted to clarify which is the best way to protect my battery. Which one is more accurate?
    Aside from school, this macbook pro will be used somewhere close to outlets most of the time. Please let me know what's the best way to maintain the health of my battery.

    Keep it plugged in when near a socket so you keep the charging cycles down on your LiPo (lithium polymer) cells / battery, but not plugged in all the time. When not being used for several hours, turn it off.
    http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html
    "Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time."
    General rule to remember of Lithium batteries is:
    Never drain them LOW  & dont always/often store them HIGH
    While cycle count is commonly seen to be the “miles” on your Lithium Ion pack cell in your Macbook, which they are, this distinction is not a fine line at all, and it is a big misconception to “count charge cycles”
    *A person who has, for example, 300 charge cycles on their battery and is recharging at say 50-60% remaining of a 100% charge has better battery usage and care than another person who has 300 charge cycles at say 15% remaining on a 100% charge. 
    DoD (depth of discharge) is far more important on the wear and tear on your Macbook battery than any mere charge cycle count.  *There is no set “mile” or wear from a charge cycle in general OR in specific.    As such, contrary to popular conception, counting cycles is not conclusive whatsoever, rather the amount of deep DoD on an averaged scale of its use and charging conditions.
                              (as a very rough analogy would be 20,000 hard miles put on a car vs. 80,000 good miles being something similar)
    *Contrary to some myths out there, there is protection circuitry in your Macbook and therefore you cannot overcharge it when plugged in and already fully charged
    *However if you don’t plan on using it for a few hours, turn it OFF (plugged in or otherwise) ..*You don’t want your Macbook both always plugged in AND in sleep mode       (When portable devices are charging and in the on or sleep position, the current that is drawn through the device is called the parasitic load and will alter the dynamics of charge cycle. Battery manufacturers advise against parasitic loading because it induces mini-cycles.)
    Keeping batteries connected to a charger ensures that periodic "top-ups" do very minor but continuous damage to individual cells, hence Apples recommendation above:   “Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time”, …this is because “Li-ion degrades fastest at high state-of-charge”.
                        This is also the same reason new Apple notebooks are packaged with 50% charges and not 100%.
    LiPo (lithium polymer, same as in your Macbook) batteries do not need conditioning. However...
    A lot of battery experts call the use of Lithium cells the "80% Rule" ...meaning use 80% of the charge or so, then recharge them for longer overall life.
    Never let your Macbook go into shutdown and safe mode from loss of power, you can corrupt files that way, and the batteries do not like it.
    The only quantified abuse seen to Lithium cells are instances when often the cells are repeatedly drained very low…. key word being "often"
    Contrary to what some might say, Lithium batteries have an "ideal" break in period. First ten cycles or so, don't discharge down past 40% of the battery's capacity. Same way you don’t take a new car out and speed and rev the engine hard first 100 or so miles.
    Proper treatment is still important. Just because LiPo batteries don’t need conditioning in general, does NOT mean they dont have an ideal use / recharge environment. Anything can be abused even if it doesn’t need conditioning.
    From Apple on batteries:
    http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1446
    http://www.apple.com/batteries/
    Storing your MacBook
    If you are going to store your MacBook away for an extended period of time, keep it in a cool location (room temperature roughly 22° C or about 72° F). Make certain you have at least a 50% charge on the internal battery of your Macbook if you plan on storing it away for a few months; recharge your battery to 50% or so every six months roughly if being stored away. If you live in a humid environment, keep your Macbook stored in its zippered case to prevent infiltration of humidity on the internals of your Macbook which could lead to corrosion.
    Considerations:
    Your battery is subject to chemical aging even if not in use. A Lithium battery is aging as soon as its made, regardless.
    In a perfect (although impractical) situation, your lithium battery is best idealized swinging back and forth between 20 and 85% SOC (state of charge) roughly.
    Further still how you discharge the battery is far more important than how it is either charged or stored short term, and more important long term that cycle counts.
    Ultimately counting charge cycles is of little importance.  Abuse in discharging (foremost), charging, and storing the battery and how it affects battery chemistry is important and not the ‘odometer’ reading, or cycle counts on the battery. 
    Everything boils down to battery chemistry long term, and not an arbitrary number, or cycle count.
    Keep your macbook plugged in when near a socket since in the near end of long-term life, this is beneficial to the battery.
    Peace
    some usefull, partially "ok, interesting" information on same
    Gaming: In cases of heavy and frequent use in gaming it is recommended, if possible, to keep your Mac plugged in since these frequent fast and deep discharges of the battery are not ideal for battery longevity.
    If you were to always keep your macbook battery floating between 20% and 80% charge roughly, then you’d have no other considerations to make about your battery and its care,… except for long-term storage.
    Natural changes of capacity in lithium batteries happens when they undergo cathode degradation at roughly 20% per year where Ion exchange becomes less efficient. Mostly low draining (deep DOD) and to a much lesser degree high standing charge rates accelerate this process. Unnatural capacity for lithium battery charges changes, and chemistry changes in a lithium battery when often pushed or pulled to extremes
    In a lithium battery, deep discharges alter the chemistry of the anode to take up lithium ions and slowly damages the batteries capacity for the cathode to transport lithium ions to the anode when charging, thereby reducing max charge levels in mAh. In short, radical swings of power to lithium cells disrupts the chemical ecosystem of the battery to hold charges correctly which likewise impedes the perfect transfer of lithium ions both in charging and discharging.  In charging your lithium battery, lithium ions are “pushed uphill” (hard) to the anode, and discharged “downhill” (easy) to the cathode when on battery power. Deep discharges, damages this “upward” electrolyte chemistry for the battery to maintain a healthy charge and discharge balance relative to its age and cycles.
    Optimally, in terms of a healthy lithium battery and its condition, it is most happy at 50% between extremes, which is why low-power-drain processors such as the Haswell are ideal on lithium battery health since a partially charged battery with a low-drain processor has, in general, much more usage in hours
    Battery calibration, battery memory, battery overcharging, battery training, …all these concepts are mostly holdovers from much older battery technology, and on older Apple portable Macbooks ranging from early nicads, NiMh and otherwise; and these practices do not apply to your lithium battery and its smart controllers.
    Calibrating the battery on older Apple portable Macbooks with removable batteries.
    http://support.apple.com/kb/PH14087
    There is no calibration of current Apple portable Macbooks with built-in batteries.
    http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1490
    There is no battery calibration with current Apple portable Macbooks with built-in batteries. Lithium batteries have essentially a 0-‘memory’, and all such calibration involve the estimations fed to the system controller on the SOC (state of charge) of the battery over long periods of time as the battery degrades. The software based battery controller knows the battery's characteristics, or SOC and adjusts itself. This is why there is both no need and purpose to periodically deeply drain your macbook battery, since it doesn’t affect the characteristics of the battery, and further still deep discharges are something you should not do on purpose to any lithium battery.
    From BASF: How Lithium Batteries work
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2PjyJhe7Q1g
    How its made, Lithium batteries
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HJrNCjVS0gk
    Bad discharging or battery use conditions:
    Heat (due to environmental conditions or due to rapid discharges from heavy use = gaming / video editing)
    Rapid discharging of the battery frequently causes chemical changes over time in the battery leading to decreased capacity and resistance of current flow.
    The very worst use of your battery is often draining the battery very low, and worse still letting it remain in such a state.
    *Most long-term rapid damage to the battery occurs from discharging it with high loading (gaming) conditions but paramount is avoiding deep and frequent low DOD (depths of discharge) in use.
    Undesirable charging or charged conditions:
    High perpetual SOC (state of charge), where the battery is always or very often connected to charge
    Parasitic loading where the battery is both usually on and charging or worse both always charging and in sleep mode, since this induces mini-cycling of the battery.
    Bad general handling conditions:
    Temperature use conditions when either too hot (95F and above) or too cold (50F and below)
    Storing your battery away with a low charge (40% and less) long-term.
    Considerations:
    Your battery is subject to chemical aging even if not in use. A Lithium battery is aging as soon as its made, regardless.
    In a perfect (although impractical) situation, your lithium battery is best idealized swinging back and forth between 20 and 85% SOC (state of charge) roughly.
    Further still how you discharge the battery is far more important than how it is either charged or stored short term.
    Ultimately counting charge cycles is of little to no importance.  Abuse in discharging (foremost), charging, and storing the battery and how it affects battery chemistry is important and not the ‘odometer’ reading, or cycle counts on the battery. 
    Everything boils down to battery chemistry long term, and not an arbitrary number, or cycle count.
    Keep your macbook plugged in when near a socket since in the near end of long-term life, this is beneficial to the battery.

  • Yoga 3 Pro Battery Charging Problems

    I've combined several discussions into one because there are multiple cross-overs of symptoms.
    After reviewing all the posts, I see there are two types of problems discussed:
    Battery charging but only to a certain percentage
    Battery intermittently charging
    Several people have reported success with their limited battery percentage problem by following the solutions suggested by MarinM and Vladtech.
    For the intermittent charging, several people have reported that sometimes the battery charges, sometimes it doesn't. I'd like to dig into these reports. I have a few questions I'd like to ask.
    When does it charge, when does it not?
    Are there any patterns to this?
    Does swapping electrical outlets make a difference?
    Does the USB 2.0 charging port appear loose?
    Does the cable show any signs of damage?
    Does the AC adapter show any signs of damage?
    When a second device is plugged into the extra USB port on the AC Adapter, does this impact Y3P charging?
    Are there any battery error messages?
    Thank you for your help,
    4/6/15 EDIT: Moved message for escalation purposes. Amy_Lenovo
    Amy Tupper
    Technical Resolution Lead, Pervasive Issues
    Lenovo US
    ThinkPad T431s, S3 Yoga 14, Helix, Edge 11 & 14, E431, IdeaTab A1107, IdeaPad A1-07, IdeaCentre Horizon, Yoga Tablet 2 10 1051
    First computer was a 1980 Commodore 64 from Radio Shack/ GEnie SFRT member from 1993-1996

    I'd like to hear more about what happened to your Yoga 3 Pro not charging.
    Did you call Lenovo Service or find another solution?
    Thank you,
    Amy Tupper
    Technical Resolution Lead, Pervasive Issues
    Lenovo US
    ThinkPad T431s, S3 Yoga 14, Helix, Edge 11 & 14, E431, IdeaTab A1107, IdeaPad A1-07, IdeaCentre Horizon, Yoga Tablet 2 10 1051
    First computer was a 1980 Commodore 64 from Radio Shack/ GEnie SFRT member from 1993-1996

Maybe you are looking for

  • AirPort Disk works on Vista but is ULTRA SLOW on MacBook Pro...please help.

    This is nuts, huh? Please help. I can copy files using Window's Vista at about 7MBps so it takes around 2min 40secs to copy a previously bought 1.3GB iTunes TV show from the AirPort Disk (connected via USB 2.0)to my Vista machine. I understand this i

  • After upgrading to 10.9.4 I have no sound.  iTunes volume control is maxed, but greyed-out.

    I've updated to OS 10.9.4.  Now I have no sound from the internal speakers or my firewire sound interface ( Mackie Onyx 1640i )  I have tried different configurations in Audio setup.  Also, I recently updated my Cubase DAW software to Artist 7.5.  iM

  • I want my display be stretched in mountain lion

    hello Technical Support , hello Helpers too really i have very confuse problem with my MacBook Pro , after i made the new update for MountainLion  ... and the option ( stretched ) not listed any more in the display options or beside the resulations c

  • Terminating Q-in-Q on WS-C3750G-24TS-S1U

    Hello, we have a connection from a service provider between location A and B where in location A i have an ethernet port and i configure a switch interface as trunk with 802.1q encapsulation and i try to pass vlans 421-423. in location B the ethernet

  • Parent Component

    I am trying to find a way to standardize the positions of all my components on my frame so that if I change the size of my frame, the position of eveyrthing will be ok in relation to eachother. As it is, I am using a very inefficient method of passin