Repairing Old Photographs

Are there any tutorials or videos on renewing old black and white and colored photographs in Photoshop?
Can anyone suggest some books using Photoshop techniques that give good directions and illustrations? I'm finding my way, but I'm sure there are much better procedures to learn............thank you much...............mm

I am delighted with the suggestions! I just checked out Amazon.com and the Ismann and Ctein books are both there. Since Ismann distinctly specifies procedures with PS, that'll be the one I purchase.
Thanks to both who suggested them.
Also, I checked all the URL's suggested and I joined the RetouchPRO site. I'm sorry Ismann will not have a book with CS4, but apparantly, there will be quite a bit online instead.
I'm handling over 100 family photos, some over 100 yrs. old for heritage composites. I'm guessing at a lot of what works in CS4, and so far, I know I've had some success, but I'm equally sure I've lots to improve upon. I hope to start as soon as I get the book and digest it, and visit the URL for other suggestions and procedures.
Many thanks to all. Your kindness is very appreciated...............mm

Similar Messages

How can you remove mirroring from the digital images of old photographs?

I have inherited several hundred old photographs and many of them display "silver mirroring" in the black regions which creates a bluish cast on the scanned image. Is there a simple way to reduce this problem during the scanning process or is there a way within Photoshop to repair it? With many such photographs, I shutter to consider the time required to repair them one-by-one in Photoshop.

When scanning, try setting the black threshold up a bit. This might loose some detail in the dark regions, but it will also make the slightly lighter images in the dark regions disappear. It depends on how light the images are and how much dark-region detail you are willing to sacrifice.
Yes the Photoshop forums should also help you.
Good luck,
Jay

How can i cancel old photographs; i need space and cannot delete old photos!

I haven't got enough space on my iPhone and would like to cancel the old photographs.
unfortunately i cannot delte the old photographs
please help

I haven't got enough space on my iPhone and would like to cancel the old photographs.
unfortunately i cannot delte the old photographs
please help

I am scanning all of our old photographs. What is the best way to save them

I am unsure if I should store on DVDs, thumb drives, or an external hard drive

I'm assuming that your old photographs are valuable to you and you don't want to lose them. If this is the case I would plan on some kind of redundant backup scheme. Har drives fail. Recordable DVDs become unreadable. Any method could fail. If you plan to access them frequently I would definitely have them on a hard drive. In addition I might put them on some other media. Three separate copies stored in three different locations and not in the same residence is the best way to make sure the photo files are preserved should something happen in one of the locations.

MacBook Pro Cost/Benefit to repair old, or sell and buy new?!

I have used a Apple MacBook Pro 2.0GHz Intel Core Duo (15.4-inch) for the past four years of college. In that time I've had it repaired once for some spillage, but other than that nothing has been done. The laptop has recently been showing serious age. I don't have a ton of extra cash, and was wondering if it would be smartest to A) Buy piecemeal repairs, and fix this one or B) sell/scrap this and purchase something new. I don't know the numbers enough to do a cost-benefit, so any help would gladly be appreciated!
INFO/BACKGROUND
Apple MacBook Pro 2.0GHz Intel Core Duo (15.4-inch) Bought in Summer 2006
• Track pad seems to be breaking/broken ($ fix cost?)
o Does not click appropriately
o Frequently messes up typing when barely touched
o Extremely finicky
• Screen sometimes displays lines of messy black lines in the middle of images with no rhyme or reason ($ fix cost?)
o What in the world could be causing the screen to display improperly in lines?
o Is this a video card failure?
o Is memory too low?
o Is it the logic board
• The battery is 100% dead and useless ($ fix cost?)
o Laptop must be plugged in to work
• Slow, and seemingly inconsistent performance ($ fix cost?)
o Memory/ram was never updated
o Safari has to be opened twice to work, first time it always just sits there
o Microsoft Office 03 applications run at a snails pace
• Still running original 2006 OS as well as all old OS applications ($ fix cost?)
• Case shows signs of use along edges with separation ($ fix cost?)
Also, if there are any ideas on what this would sell for, or a total cost to get it into solid running (and lasting!) shape would be awesome. I'm at wits end trying to budget for all this - thanks!

Hi r,
Without addressing the cost of each item, I can give you my opinion that it is time for an upgrade (new/er MBP). You'd basically be replacing the logic board, RAM, HD, battery, upper case, lower case, and possibly the display and keyboard. That's almost the entire machine. And you'd have to buy Snow Leopard, the latest OS. Then you'd be left with a set of "new" old hardware which should work fine for another couple of years, but you could instead be driving the latest/fastest model for not a lot more money, which should last well beyond what the old machine would last, thereby actually making it cheaper in the long run. Also factor in selling the old MBP on ebay or craigslist for parts, and that makes a new MBP even more cost effective.
Message was edited by: tjk

Serial number plate stolen after repairing old 512k

(From Italy) Hi, I tried to make repaired my old Mac 512ke (power supply problem), but wen returned (no results) I realized the serial number plate was missing.
Not trusting the repairer who said that also previously lacked, I want to report here the serial, for all the use the community may decide. It is : F435021. Regards, Paolo

Something that seems to come up time and time again....
...is when someone loses their serial number for whatever reason.. the last thing they seem to want to do or try.. is to call Apple
Whereas, that would be the very first thing I would do...
Odd huh?

Restoration of old photographs

Hello! I have been looking at purchasing Aperture for personal photographic reasons. I am now in need of a program that will allow me to do some restoration work on my old family photographs. I need a pretty good program to do this. I have read on some discussion forums that Aperture does not do a great job in this area as compared to Photoshop. Does anyone have any input? I would love to go with Aperture, but cannot buy both programs. I need to purchase the best program for restoration work.
Also, any input on Photoshop Elements for Mac?
I look forward to your replies!

This is not really Aperture's core competency. It can do color adjustments, and some healing, but it's nowhere near as powerful as Photoshop for hardcore restoration work.
The thing about Photoshop is that it's very, very complicated with a steep learning curve. Depending on how much time/effort you want to put into learning, Elements may be a better fit -- but since I've used Photoshop but not Elements (at least, not Elements since version 2), I can't say what it's lacking.

Restoring old photograph fron 1890

I am restoring an old photo for our local museum. I believe
"Sepia" color was used instead of black and white. Can I create
sepia? Convert to black and white first?
I have PE7.

Yes to both.
Go to Enhance>Convert to Black & White. If this command is not available in your version of PSE, apply a hue/saturation adjustment layer, then drag the saturation slider all the way to the left.
You can apply sepia tone quite easily. Open a Photo-filter adjustment layer, select sepia from the drop-down and adjust the density slider to suit. Uncheck "preserve luminosity."
Please post your progress.

Old Photographs onto DVD?

Hello Reader,
I have a friend that would like me to put together a slide show for his 50th wedding anniversary! The pictures date all the way back to the sixties. My question is this. How do I get these old pictures into my computer and then onto DVD? Do I need to scan the prints or something? I seriously doubt that have the original film
Thanks in advance,
Trey

Your slide show on DVD is a video. You can handle it in exactly the same way as a regular movie from a DVD.
By the way, did you see my MPEG Streamclip tutorials?
[Part One|http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=2059475&tstart=0] and [Part Two|http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=2070861&tstart=0]

PSE 9

I feel like I've been tricked or taken or just dumb. I just upgraded from PS 6 to PSE 9 and as far as I can see there isn't much difference between the two. I use this product for editing digital pictures and repairing old photographs only. I never expected when contacted via e-mail with the possibility to upgrade and save $20 that Adobe made three different levels of the same program. I have now taken the test they give to suggest what software edition you should buy according your personal usage demands and it turns out I should have purchased the most expensive upgrade. If I'm only editing digital pictures and old photographs who would need to upgrade from Photo shop 6 to PSE 9? What options do I have.

Have you ever tried to get your money back from Adobe?
It's an absolute nightmare. An I'm not exaggerating when I say a nightmare!!!!!

IPhoto can't handle old photos repaired in Adobe Photoshop

I'm losing respecty for iPhoto. On March 15th I had a question about publishing photos to my IPhoto 5 web site using iPhoto 8. For those who are interested I have learned from Apple that it can't be done because iPhoto 5 and iPhoto 8 are incompatible.
Now, I find that neither 5 or 8 can handle a repaired old photo. When I import such a photo the result is a totally black image. When I open the image the photo is a transparency that almost looks like a negative although it is actually a positive. Any help would be appreciated since I have many such archival photos. They cannot be repaired on iPhoto because of iPhotos limited repair capability.

LarryHN
You are beyond me. I don't know how to make the change.
Aside from that, however, i'm still puzzled because all my scans of old pictures were done in the same way. I ran all of them through Photoshop for at least minor adjustments. iPhoto has no problem with 90 percent of them. It is only those which needed more than a touchup or enhancement if you will that gives iPhoto a problem. These are photos that were damaged and required repair with various tools provide by Photoshop.

How to Create/Locate Offline Photographs, Revisited

I hope this updated procedure may be useful to others: I believe that I have evolved a viable scheme (in Lightroom 2.4 under Windows XP), both for importing old photographs that had been burned onto CD/DVD, and for burning and moving offline new photographs that have been imported directly from a camera onto the hard drive in LR. The goal is to get ALL photos into the online LR catalog while keeping the most recent image files online only until enough inactive ones have accumulated to fill a new CD/DVD. If anyone still archiving to CD/DVD has the patience to read through this long post, any corrections or improvements would be greatly appreciated! (In any case, it's been helpful to me to write it up.)
0) Background: My old photo CDs (ISO 9669 Mode 1 Level II) each contain a parent directory named according camera/photographer (e.g., "MY_CANON_PHOTOGRAPHS") and numerous sub-directories named either by capture date or by import date, according to the proprietary software that was originally used to import them. These CDs also have hand-written disk names (e.g., "My Canon Photographs III") by which they can be manually identified. (I didn't bother giving the CDs unique electronic names, nor does it appear that it would have helped much if I had. Am I wrong here?) One of my goals is to keep this disk labeling and directory structure as consistent as possible going forward, burning new disks with third-party software that features a verify-after-burn cycle (and using high-quality media, of course) for data security. Minor differences in date format of the old, proprietarily generated folder names also makes it convenient to keep them segregated under separate parent directories in LR, as on the CDs themselves (see section 2 below).
1) To import pre-existing photographs from CD/DVD into a LR catalog WITHOUT moving the image files to the HD (the easy part): Insert the CD and click "File/Import Photos from Disk..." Select the parent directory on the CD. (This parent should be reflected in a parent folder within the LR catalog. If not, right-click on any of the new dated sub-folders and select "Add Parent Folder.") Click "Import All Photos in Selected Folder," and wait for "Computing dates..." to complete. Under File Handling select "Add photos to catalog without moving." Under Keywords, add the name written on the CD/DVD (e.g., "CD-My_Canon_Photographs_III"), along with any other desired keywords. (This keywording is the step that allows the offline source of individual catalogued photos to be manually identified.) Click Import. Note that keywords should not contain spaces; substitute hyphens, underscores, or similar. The LR Text filter -- the only facility that allows a "Don't Contain," or logical NOT, option -- does not currently allow searches on phrases containing spaces. (The familiar Windows quote marks don't work.)
2) To import new photos from a camera to HD in LR (also easy): Connect the camera and click "File/Import Photos from Device..." Under File Handling retain "Copy photos to a new location and add to catalog." Under Copy to, choose an exsiting, or create a new, parent directory, as appropriate (e.g., "...\My Pictures\Lightroom\MY_CANON_PHOTOGRAPHS" -- this to maintain consistency with existing CD structure). Under Organize choose "By date: YYYY-MM-DD" (according to your preference), and leave File Naming as "Filename" or change as desired. (Note that in my case there are slight differences in date format in LR as compared to the old proprietary software used for earlier CDs, e.g., hypens in place of underscores. If these will create folder-sequencing problems in the catalog later on, it is best to use a different parent directory for the LR-imported pictures -- e.g., "LR_CANON_PHOTOGRAPHS.") Under Keywords, add something like "NOT_YET_ARCHIVED" (as a reminder) along with any other desired keywords. Click Import. If at the end of the process you don't see the parent folder in the LR catalog, right-click on any of the new dated sub-folders and select "Add Parent Folder."
3) To burn new photos to CD/DVD and delete them from the HD (the tricky part):
      a) First, use LR's "Library/New Folder" to create a unique new parent directory on the HD (e.g., "Photo DVD II" -- this may as well become the name hand-written on the optical disk for later manual identification), in my case under "...\My Pictures\Lightroom\," to contain the entire directory structure that you want to burn to a SINGLE optical disk. In my case this structure consists of a sequence of dated subdirectories under one or more existing parent directories like "LR_CANON_PHOTOGRAPHS." Then, still in LR, drag and drop these existing parent directories onto the new parent, one by one. These steps are important, as they will greatly simplify the process of redirecting the LR catalog to point to the new offline files -- see step 3.c below. Finally, select all of the photos in this directory structure and (in the Grid view!) add a keyword (e.g., "DVD-Photo_DVD_II"), to be sure that you will know which offline media to load when you want access to these photographs in the future.
      b) It may be wise at this point to select the relevant directory structure and click "Metadata/Save Metadata to Files," to make sure that all of your metadata work will be saved in the image files on CD/DVD. Then close LR and use third-party burning software (with verify!) to burn the above directory structure, INCLUDING the newly created parent directory, onto the CD/DVD. Don't forget to hand-write a name on the disk (in this case, "Photo DVD II") by which it can be manually identified later.
      c) Restart LR, right-click on the newly created parent folder (in this example, "Photo DVD II"), and select "Update Folder Location..." Navigate to the corresponding parent (now root) directory on the new CD/DVD, and click OK. This procedure should re-link all the sub-folders and photographs in the newly burned part of the LR catalog to the corresponding directories/image files on the optical disk. You will see these sub-folders disappear from under the HD heading and re-appear in the newly created parent folder under the optical-drive heading. (Again, if you don't see this parent folder in the LR catalog, right-click on any of the newly burned, second-level folders and select "Add Parent Folder.")
      d) Only after you are completely satisfied that the CD/DVD burn was successful and your photographs are safe, close LR and (using the Windows Explorer, or whatever) delete the newly burned directory structure from the HD. Back in LR, the thumbnails and metadata for the now-moved photographs will still be accessible in the appropriate folders under the optical drive. If the CD/DVD is removed, the directory structure will be "grayed out," with question marks to indicate "missing" folders; but browsing, keywording, etc. can still be done. If you want to "Develop" or otherwise work with the actual images, you have only to identify the correct optical media and re-insert it into the drive. If you want to do extensive work on, or otherwise re-catalog, these photographs, however, you can always (outside LR) copy the entire directory tree from the optical drive back onto the HD and then reverse the process described in 3.c above to re-link the catalog to the on-line copy.
      e) Finally, delete the "NOT YET ARCHIVED" keyword on all of the burned photographs, now in the CD/DVD folder. (Don't forget to Select All in the Grid view!)
      f) Just one more thought. Some evidently feel that DVDs are not reliable long-term storage. My current solution to this potential problem is to burn the original photographs onto CD-R's, structured similarly to the old CDs described in Section 0 above, as soon as they are imported, before any work is done on them in LR. These CDs can be stored offsite, just in case the DVDs fail. Personally, however, I don't want to maintain a RAID system of external hard drives, and I trust DVD+R's more than I trust the HD in my laptop.
Thanks in advance for any comments. -- JClarkW

I hope this updated procedure may be useful to others: I believe that I have evolved a viable scheme (in Lightroom 2.4 under Windows XP), both for importing old photographs that had been burned onto CD/DVD, and for burning and moving offline new photographs that have been imported directly from a camera onto the hard drive in LR. The goal is to get ALL photos into the online LR catalog while keeping the most recent image files online only until enough inactive ones have accumulated to fill a new CD/DVD. If anyone still archiving to CD/DVD has the patience to read through this long post, any corrections or improvements would be greatly appreciated! (In any case, it's been helpful to me to write it up.)
0) Background: My old photo CDs (ISO 9669 Mode 1 Level II) each contain a parent directory named according camera/photographer (e.g., "MY_CANON_PHOTOGRAPHS") and numerous sub-directories named either by capture date or by import date, according to the proprietary software that was originally used to import them. These CDs also have hand-written disk names (e.g., "My Canon Photographs III") by which they can be manually identified. (I didn't bother giving the CDs unique electronic names, nor does it appear that it would have helped much if I had. Am I wrong here?) One of my goals is to keep this disk labeling and directory structure as consistent as possible going forward, burning new disks with third-party software that features a verify-after-burn cycle (and using high-quality media, of course) for data security. Minor differences in date format of the old, proprietarily generated folder names also makes it convenient to keep them segregated under separate parent directories in LR, as on the CDs themselves (see section 2 below).
1) To import pre-existing photographs from CD/DVD into a LR catalog WITHOUT moving the image files to the HD (the easy part): Insert the CD and click "File/Import Photos from Disk..." Select the parent directory on the CD. (This parent should be reflected in a parent folder within the LR catalog. If not, right-click on any of the new dated sub-folders and select "Add Parent Folder.") Click "Import All Photos in Selected Folder," and wait for "Computing dates..." to complete. Under File Handling select "Add photos to catalog without moving." Under Keywords, add the name written on the CD/DVD (e.g., "CD-My_Canon_Photographs_III"), along with any other desired keywords. (This keywording is the step that allows the offline source of individual catalogued photos to be manually identified.) Click Import. Note that keywords should not contain spaces; substitute hyphens, underscores, or similar. The LR Text filter -- the only facility that allows a "Don't Contain," or logical NOT, option -- does not currently allow searches on phrases containing spaces. (The familiar Windows quote marks don't work.)
2) To import new photos from a camera to HD in LR (also easy): Connect the camera and click "File/Import Photos from Device..." Under File Handling retain "Copy photos to a new location and add to catalog." Under Copy to, choose an exsiting, or create a new, parent directory, as appropriate (e.g., "...\My Pictures\Lightroom\MY_CANON_PHOTOGRAPHS" -- this to maintain consistency with existing CD structure). Under Organize choose "By date: YYYY-MM-DD" (according to your preference), and leave File Naming as "Filename" or change as desired. (Note that in my case there are slight differences in date format in LR as compared to the old proprietary software used for earlier CDs, e.g., hypens in place of underscores. If these will create folder-sequencing problems in the catalog later on, it is best to use a different parent directory for the LR-imported pictures -- e.g., "LR_CANON_PHOTOGRAPHS.") Under Keywords, add something like "NOT_YET_ARCHIVED" (as a reminder) along with any other desired keywords. Click Import. If at the end of the process you don't see the parent folder in the LR catalog, right-click on any of the new dated sub-folders and select "Add Parent Folder."
3) To burn new photos to CD/DVD and delete them from the HD (the tricky part):
      a) First, use LR's "Library/New Folder" to create a unique new parent directory on the HD (e.g., "Photo DVD II" -- this may as well become the name hand-written on the optical disk for later manual identification), in my case under "...\My Pictures\Lightroom\," to contain the entire directory structure that you want to burn to a SINGLE optical disk. In my case this structure consists of a sequence of dated subdirectories under one or more existing parent directories like "LR_CANON_PHOTOGRAPHS." Then, still in LR, drag and drop these existing parent directories onto the new parent, one by one. These steps are important, as they will greatly simplify the process of redirecting the LR catalog to point to the new offline files -- see step 3.c below. Finally, select all of the photos in this directory structure and (in the Grid view!) add a keyword (e.g., "DVD-Photo_DVD_II"), to be sure that you will know which offline media to load when you want access to these photographs in the future.
      b) It may be wise at this point to select the relevant directory structure and click "Metadata/Save Metadata to Files," to make sure that all of your metadata work will be saved in the image files on CD/DVD. Then close LR and use third-party burning software (with verify!) to burn the above directory structure, INCLUDING the newly created parent directory, onto the CD/DVD. Don't forget to hand-write a name on the disk (in this case, "Photo DVD II") by which it can be manually identified later.
      c) Restart LR, right-click on the newly created parent folder (in this example, "Photo DVD II"), and select "Update Folder Location..." Navigate to the corresponding parent (now root) directory on the new CD/DVD, and click OK. This procedure should re-link all the sub-folders and photographs in the newly burned part of the LR catalog to the corresponding directories/image files on the optical disk. You will see these sub-folders disappear from under the HD heading and re-appear in the newly created parent folder under the optical-drive heading. (Again, if you don't see this parent folder in the LR catalog, right-click on any of the newly burned, second-level folders and select "Add Parent Folder.")
      d) Only after you are completely satisfied that the CD/DVD burn was successful and your photographs are safe, close LR and (using the Windows Explorer, or whatever) delete the newly burned directory structure from the HD. Back in LR, the thumbnails and metadata for the now-moved photographs will still be accessible in the appropriate folders under the optical drive. If the CD/DVD is removed, the directory structure will be "grayed out," with question marks to indicate "missing" folders; but browsing, keywording, etc. can still be done. If you want to "Develop" or otherwise work with the actual images, you have only to identify the correct optical media and re-insert it into the drive. If you want to do extensive work on, or otherwise re-catalog, these photographs, however, you can always (outside LR) copy the entire directory tree from the optical drive back onto the HD and then reverse the process described in 3.c above to re-link the catalog to the on-line copy.
      e) Finally, delete the "NOT YET ARCHIVED" keyword on all of the burned photographs, now in the CD/DVD folder. (Don't forget to Select All in the Grid view!)
      f) Just one more thought. Some evidently feel that DVDs are not reliable long-term storage. My current solution to this potential problem is to burn the original photographs onto CD-R's, structured similarly to the old CDs described in Section 0 above, as soon as they are imported, before any work is done on them in LR. These CDs can be stored offsite, just in case the DVDs fail. Personally, however, I don't want to maintain a RAID system of external hard drives, and I trust DVD+R's more than I trust the HD in my laptop.
Thanks in advance for any comments. -- JClarkW

I HAVE MANY OLD SLIDES FROM MY FAMILY,WHAT IS A GOOD 35MM SLIDE SCANNER THAT CAN BE USE WITH MY MACBOOK PRO?

Hi,
Can anyone recommend a scanner or other device for old family slides that must converted in a digital format and saved in a DVD and external hard drive?
Thanks
Wandafromqc

Don't even think about scanning thousands of slides yourself. If you have 5000 family slides, it's overwhelmingly likely that just 500 of them will give a highly effective representation of the whole collection, and will include not only all of the best ones but many of the second-best ones too. Scanning them all, or even half of them, will consume your entire summer and would probably give you and your sibs a lot more pictures than any of you really wants to keep.
It used to be true that scanning slides halfway decently required an expensive dedicated film scanner -- consumer flatbed scanners just weren't up to the task. That's no longer true. I have an under-$200 Epson Perfection V500 Photo flatbed scanner that outperforms the $2000+ Nikon film scanner I've had for 9 years in slide and negative scanning, and the software that came with it enables me to scan several (6 if I remember right) slides at once and automatically saves them as separate image files. That makes it much faster to use than the film scanner, and of course I can also use it for scanning flat reflective material, such as the more than 1000 old photographic prints and post cards I've digitized for my local historical society. The film scanner couldn't have done any of that.

Batch processing photographs in Photoshop Elements 11

Hi everyone,
I've been scanning in a lot of old photographs of late. Many (probably all) of them would benefit from application of the "dust & scratches" filter, but it doesn't appear as an option in the "process multiple files" pull-down. I've heard about "autohotkey" being used as an alternative mechanism for doing batch processing, but can't find an example online that works with Photoshop Elements 11. Would anyone care to share any tips on how I could automatically process my scanned photographs in ways that "process multiple files" doesn't offer?
Thanks in advance for any assistance anyone can offer.
Best regards,
Andrew.

One way which i've been doing this is to use the Image Processor script from photoshop in pse 11.
(only works in pse 11 or possibly future versions of photoshop elements)
You can download the PSE 11 Image Processor.zip, extract the file (right click on the zip and press Extract All)
https://workspaces.acrobat.com/?d=ZOP9CgDC38plXHju4uVLkQ
and then copy the Image Processor.jsx to:
C:\Program Files (x86)\Adobe\Photoshop Elements 11\Presets\Scripts (64 bit version of windows 8)
C:\Program Files\Adobe\Photoshop Elements 11\Presets\Scripts (32 bit version of windows 8)
Start or restart pse11 and in the Expert mode it should be listed under File>Automation Tools>Image Processor
(an image doesn't have to be open to run the script)
Then we just need to know if you want the Dust and Scratches to use the same settings all the time or you want to be able to adjust the filter between photos.
(so we could send you the action to use with the image processor)
The image processor is similar to process mutiple fles except you can choose to run action that you have loaded in Window>Actions on the processed photos.

Will Apple repair?

I have a 3G ipod, but unfortunately the battery has completed died this weekend (or something else is wrong). I would like to try to get it fixed, so I have a few questions:
1. Will Apple still repair these ipods even though they are 5+ years old? Can I just take it over to my local Apple store and they will send it away to get fixed?
2. Does anyone know what the cost is to repair old ipods? I'm hoping that it is not an insanely large amount of money.
Thanks to anyone who has any info!

As Mitch noted, iPods need battery replacements periodically. Replacing one is about a 15-minute exercise once you figure out the procedure. ifixit.com has tutorials for replacing iPod batteries, as well as having the batteries themselves. Along with the battery they send you the case-cracking tools. In addition, you'll need a small allen wrench, a torx screwdriver, or a very small flat head screwdriver. ifixit also has the tool you need. I just got the battery for $15 and scrounged up a little screwdriver to get at the underside of the logic board. If you're careful to route the battery wiring and plug so they don't get crimped, you'll be back in business.
To verify that you need a battery, check out this link. Also, look at this page, down toward the bottom to see some of the icons your iPod may display. I went thru this with the click-wheel iPod (4th gen.) sitting here in front of me. A new battery made it so it works perfectly now.
John
John

Repairing Old Photographs

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