Request for optimal calibration settings for Lenovo ThinkVision monitors

I understand one person's settings may not hold true for someone else's given display variances, but I would very much like to get anyone's suggested, optimal picture settings for each of the below two monitors.
Primarily monitor 1 looks way worse than monitor 2 for me, but I still want help with both. Models listed below. Please include each item/setting with # used so I can try them out and see if it helps.
Monitor 1: LEN L1900pA
Monitor 2: LEN LT1913pA
Thank you for your help!

Hi Jwhyrock,
Jwhyrock reply,
I played with settings on all 3 monitors. Not entirely sure I like what I did, but it is a bit better. I would still like to see what settings anyone else is using for their display such as contrast, brightness, color saturation etc.
Below is the link on how to setup the default calibration for display, please follow the steps. And also suggest you to check with resetting the Monitor to factory default setting in the monitor, or you can also check with installing Monitor .inf for the specific model which can be downloaded from the manufacturer link.
Display Calibration
Hope this helps!
Best regards,
Hemanth Kumar
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Looking For Optimal Wireless Settings For Multiple WRT310N's

Folks, I have 3 Linksys WRT310N routers (all at the most current level firmware) around my house serving as both wired and wireless access points. I have Verizon DSL service (3 MB) as my ISP. We have a couple of IBM T60p laptops (w/Win XP Pro), a Lenovo S12 netbook (w/Win 7), and my son also has an Apple iPod Touch all that access our home network via the wireless network provided by the WRT310N's. The WRT310N's all have unique static IP addresses (DHCP disabled - IP addresses being issued by the Verizon DSL modem/router). My current wireless settings are as follows:
Wireless / Basic Wireless Setings:
Wireless Configuration = Manual
Network Mode = Mixed
Network Name (SSID) = (something other than linksys!)
Radio Band = Auto
Wide Channel = Auto
Standard Channel = Auto
SSID Broadcast = Enabled (Need enabled or the Apple iPod Touch will not find the wireless network)
Wireless / Wireless Security:
Security Mode = WPA2 Personal
Encryption = TKIP or AES
Passphrase = (Something really clever here!)
Key Renewal = 3600 seconds
Wireless / Wireless MAC Filter:
Enabled (With all the appropriate MAC addresses permitted)
Wireless / Advanced Wireless Settings:
AP Isolation = Enabled
Frame Burst = Enabled
Authentication Type = Auto (greyed out - can NOT change)
Basic Rate = Default
Transmission Rate = Auto (greyed out - can NOT change)
N Transmission Rate = Auto
CTS Protection Mode = Auto
Beacon Interval = 100
DTIM Interval = 1
Fragmentation Threshold = 2346
RTS Threshold = 2347
My goal is obviously to provide the best performance on all the wireless devices that we have. Since the laptops and netbook have a variety of OS's (and sometimes our neighbor comes over with his Mac laptop) I'd like to keep it flexable for those PC's and the Apple iPod Touch. I've also read that if you have multiple wireless access points you should set them all to different channels. If so, which channels? Or, should they all be on the same channel so one could walk from room to room without losing their wireless connection? Since I have 3 WRT310N's I'm interested in what recommendations there are for performance to keep the laptops and netbook communicating using wireless "N" yet keeping compatible for the Apple iPod Touch on wireless "G". Thank you all in advance for any advice or info.

Hmmmm, for quite some time I've left the SSID the same on all the WRT310N routers. At one time a while back I was told to do this by a Linksys technician. They all are cascaded (LAN-to-LAN via the ethernet ports) off of the 4 ethernet ports on the Verizon DSL modem/router in the similar manner described in the following article:
http://www6.nohold.net/Cisco2/ukp.aspx?vw=1&docid=785463d9ecaf4cac84aed245b08d615f_3733.xml&pid=96&s...
(Switch) ethernet port 1 on each WRT310N is connected to ports 1 through 3 on the Verizon DSL modem/router. Hence, each WRT310N is acting as an access point (wired and wireless) throughout the house. I do NOT use the 'Internet' port on any of my WRT310N routers. They each have a static (fixed) IP address like 192.16.1.10, 192.168.1.11 and 192.168.1.12. They all reside on the same LAN subnet as my Verizon DSL modem/router which is responsible for issuing DHCP IP addresses for the entire home network. The remaining (switched) ethernet ports 2, 3, and 4 on each WRT310N is left open for local hard-wired devices like printers and multimedia devices (like XBox 360, etc.). So bottom line is that each WRT310N is acting like a 4-port network switch that also has wireless capabilities (like a WAP).
By keeping the SSID the same on all the WRT310N routers I can keep a single wireless profile on each device (i.e... PC's) for my entire house. So I can go and access WRT310N #1 (with let's say with SSID 'ABC') in my living room and later go into my home office room and access WRT310N #2 (with the same SSID - 'ABC') with the same wireless profile. I believe it is the same concept used when someone stays at a hotel and accesses their public wireless network. That way the hotel customers only have to set their SSID to let's say 'HILTON' regardless of which floor or room they are in.
So the part that I'm really focusing on is the wireless performance aspect. My laptops like to operate on 'N' and get pretty good connection speeds (usually receive around 270 Mbps). The Apple iPod Touch (2nd generation) only goes up to 'G' so I believe I need to keep a 'Mixed' Network Mode. The part I'm not so sure about is the Channel Width and whether or not all 3 Linksys routers should be on the same channel (or set to Auto) or if I should manually set the channels and provide some separation between their channels. That's where 'Channel Width' and 'Channel' settings get a bit over my head. Now when I previously had multiple 'G' Linksys routers I contacted Linksys Technical Support and they said to use the same SSID and that I should separate the channels, but that was with their earlier 'G' versions. Now that I have a more recent [N] version and the channel settings can be 'Auto' I'm wondering if the correct settings would still be to again separate the channels or maybe leave it up to the routers to function in 'Auto' mode.
And if I need to set each router up individually what recommended settings should they be? As follows:
WRT310N #1:
Network Mode = Mixed
Channel Width = ?
Channel = ?
WRT310N #2:
Network Mode = Mixed
Channel Width = ?
Channel = ?
WRT310N #3:
Network Mode = Mixed
Channel Width = ?
Channel = ?
Here is a Cisco web page that I'm using as a reference:
http://www6.nohold.net/Cisco2/ukp.aspx?pid=80&vw=1&articleid=21194
I'm also looking for any suggestions on tuning the Advanced Wireless Settings like Beacon Interval, Fragmentation Threshold, RTS Threshold, etc. Again, my wireless user devices are both G and N and have various OS's.
Thank you again in advance for all your help!!

?Optimal Photoshop settings for slideshow-iMovie then iDVD

I know that there are many posts about file size and pixel size for optimizing photos prior to importing into iMovie or iDVD. I have read many of them, including many of them by Karl Petersen, but have been disappointed by the quality of the photos when viewed on the final DVD on my television. The problem I have it that almost ALL of my photos are portrait style and not landscape. A lot of the discussions center around avoiding pillarboxes, which I cannot avoid with vertical pictures
All of the photos are shot RAW on a Nikon D70 and imported into Photoshop.
Can anyone make recommendations on the optimal photoshop settings for creating the files to import for a slideshow in iDVD.
Specifically, in Photoshop, for vertically oriented pictures, what would be the recommendation for:
1) File size and best way to control that in Photoshop. Should I increase the file size on the original RAW image import? (I currently use the 2000x3008 6MP default)
2) Should each photo be cropped to an exact size or can I keep a specific aspect ratio instead?
3) Should I use a pixel aspect ratio other than normal? (These will all be viewed in the US )
4) Should the photos be imported into iMovie first and go through KB (even with no zooming) or can they go into iDVD?
Many Thanks!!!
Dual 1.42 MHz G4, 2 GB RAM Mac OS X (10.4.7) iMovieHD 6.0.2, iDVD 6.0.2

Since posting the test I suggested you run, Alesse, I've done some testing of my own, with some interesting results. They aren't going to help you much, I'm afraid, but they might shed some light on the whole process of making slideshows.
I do everything I can to maximize image quality in iMovie slideshows. Then I've wondered what affect iDVD has on the result.
So today I played the same slideshow from three sources. One version from the camera, one version from iDVD and one version from a Digital Video Recorder (DVR).
First I created a slideshow where the same photos were imported four different ways, each as a four 4-second clip. The test used rather simple photos, 1600x1200 jpegs, about 500k each, from an old Nikon Coolpix 950.
The images were delivered to the iMovie four ways:
1) I imported the sequence of images into QuickTime Player, then saved that as two DV streams, one Progressive and one Interlaced. These were dropped into the Media folder as described above. iMovie "adopted" them when I re-opened the project. (They were NOT imported by iMovie.)
2) I imported the same images with Ken Burns ON (but with no animation); and
3) I imported the same images with Ken Burns OFF.
The four clips of each image were arranged side-by-side on the Timeline, so I could easily compare their quality while played on the TV.
(The images were selected to include those that are easy to encode by iDVD and images difficult to encode — having lots of high-contrast lines like roof lines, lap-siding on buildings, telephone lines, the kind of content that tends to acquire the "jaggies". I avoided the bug where iMovie adds jaggies if you grant it permission to render UNrendered images as you export the project to iDVD or to the camera.)
I wanted to compare the quality of three kinds of slideshows:
1) the slideshow played from the camera;
2) the slideshow burned by iDVD and
3) the slideshow burned by a standalone DVR.
To make the three slideshows, I did this:
1) used iDVD to burn a DVD of the iMovie project;
2) exported the iMovie slideshow project back to the camera; and
3) connected the camera to a Digital Video Recorder (DVR) and burned a DVD on the DVR. This was so I could compare the quality of iDVD to a DVR recording.
Then I connected the camera to the TV so I could compare it, in turn, to each of the DVDs. Because each image played for a total of 16 seconds, I was able to play both the DVD and the camera simultaneously and switch the TV back and forth between the two inputs to compare the image quality of the camera to a DVD.
RESULT
• The camera image was superior in all respects to both the DVDs, as one would expect. Considerably better. There were virtually no jaggies. Subtler colors. Less contrast. iMovie 6 was obviously delivering the goods. Great quality, on every clip.
• At first I thought the DVR image was better than the iDVD image, but reconsidered that later. Each had its own positive qualities. There was little difference. Each was slightly better in some respects than the other, worse in others. It was basically a wash. Both had about the same amount of jaggies, sometimes in different places.
• Another interesting result was that all the clips — from all four sources — played basically the same on the camera and on the two DVDs. There was very little difference among the four import methods. (I expected more difference.)
• There WAS an obvious difference among clips played in iMovie, however. The DV stream exported as a DV Progressive movie displayed with better quality in iMovie itself. The difference wasn't huge, but it was sharper, more "life-like".
• It is obvious that encoding an iMovie project to the MPEG-2 format used by a DVD — whether by iDVD or by a DVR — sacrifices quality. You won't notice it much on some images — flowers, faces, landscapes — but you will see jaggies on others.
• When the test was over, I watched a DVD slideshow of the same images I had burned a few weeks ago containing three iMovie widescreen formats: DV Widescreen, 720p, and 1080i. It was a close call, but I think they were all slightly better than the DV slideshow. Some images, especially, were better.
CONCLUSIONS
If you want the best playback quality possible, use the camcorder to play the slideshow on the TV, not a DVD.
To avoid the jaggies, it may be necessary to avoid certain photos. It's hard to tell which those are until you play the DVD on a TV. Plan to burn a DVD, then purge the images that acquire bad jaggies and burn it again.
Softening the TV picture can help. My TV offers a tremendous range of sharpness, a feature common to new TVs.
• My guess is that until we can burn Hi-Def DVDs, our huger and huger TVs are going to make the problem of DVD quality worser and worser. My slideshows would probably all look great on yesterday's "huge" 20" TV.
• I don't have DVD Studio Pro to test. Perhaps someone can compare that too?
Anyway, I hope something here helps.
Karl

LP2475 - best colour calibration settings for stock photography

Hi - I have just purchased the LP2475 and am new at colour calibration. The general colour seems very over saturated.
I am mainly using the monitor it to do 2 main things :
1) using lightroom / pshop and adjusting photos that will be available online for stock photography purchasing.
2) using lightroom /pshop and adjusting panos to print via 2 out-of-house print companies.
I understand that I have to buy a colour calibration device and I will make up custom printer profiles for the 2 different companies where I get my photos printed (one is a canvas & one is a photo printing company).
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Thanks
Lucy

I recently bought a Spyder2Pro, which was
recommended
by Scott Kelby, Editor of Photoshop User Magazine,
and am very happy with it. The main difference
between Spyder2Pro and Spyder2 are multiple
monitor
support and more choices for monitor gamma and
tempereature settings. Since I use multiple
monitors, I went for Spyder2Pro, although it was a
bit more pricy (got it for $189 at JR.com). All
my
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amazed how much difference the tool made. If you
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would
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One hint with the multiple monitor thing is that on
the Mac, all of these tools just end up generating an
ICC profile that gets assigned to your monitor.
What that means is that they all actually support
multiple monitors, just not all automatically... for
the ones that do not know how to select displays, you
can just move the menu bar to whatever screen you
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profile for that screen.
I use the EyeOne and like it a lot. But any hardware
calibrator is better than none.
As a side note, I think using a color temperature of
65k for the monitor and a gamma of 2.2 is really a
good setting to use with any calibrator.
Svendo,
I fully support the comments in this post but still prefer the GM Eye 1. Dont try to do the job with your eye. 99 times out of 100 you will be way off the mark.

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Hi all,
I recently bought my lenovo l220x monitor, it is a great monitor, but when I went to 2 of non profesional monitors they displayed one picture that I chose allmost the same, but diferent than my lenovo displays it, problem is with preset sRGB, my lenovo shows much warmer picture than those 2 monitors.
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Thanks

Hi! You can try this setting.
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I use L220x via DVI on my T60 (connect to Mini-Dock) with this setting and find that the color saturation is lower than the preset "sRGB", which is better for me.

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. : | : . : | : . tim

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Hi,
If we want to change the privacy setting for the Internet Zone from Medium to Low via Group Policy, please navigate to
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Hai!
I have been searching for good export settings to use as I export my mpg files in adobe premier cs4
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I can see they are good in premiere, but after export they are as bad as if I would use windows movie maker.
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Avi compressed gives that bad look.
QT animation gives also bad look.
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Thanks alot for helping me, I really looked at many threads and stuff
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This is really urgent, the movie MUST be done within 2 days. Or else i get an F

>My movies are in native MOD files. I convert em by simply changing the extension to mpg
You are starting with compressed files... and then you compress again... that is a DOUBLE hit on quality
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Thanks in advance guys.
Andrew

Thank you so much for that link. Answered my questions and got me thinking.
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In the config. consoles I think it's better to leave it as headphones or 2. speakers. Since you have to plug the headphones to the line-out jack if you configure as 5. you'll lose the center, sub and rears when listening to surround content. When you use a 5./7. setup, CMSS "fills" the missing channels with the stereo source. With headphones it makes stereo music more?"upfront" so it doesn't sound "inside the head", but according to some reviews, the HD595s have already?an upfront soundstage. CMSS 3D is nice when you listen to 5. DD/DTS content with headphones, the spatialization is pretty good and I prefer it over the basic stereo?downmix (or even dolby headphone), but you might want to turn it off for stereo content (mostly music) as it changes sligthly the sound (you already noticed that).
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Hi Guys,
Really need your help on this one. My goal is to find the
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and Sorensen.
The projector size is 1000 x 700 pixels to be distributed on
dvd.
The original video files are mixed formats. I have some 640 x
425 AVI CAD movies, some DV movies at NTSC resolution and some 720
x 540 QTVR files converted to .avi.
The file types I am testing at the moment are SWF and
QUICKTIME .MOV, with mixed results on different systems. The best
results so far are from converting to SWF at 2500 kbps with 25 fps
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to fit 1000 x 670.
Ideally I would like each movie to play back at a setting of
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at the bottom of the projector.
Can anyone point me in the right direction? Am I doing
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...doesn't really sound like a Lingo question but maybe
someone can help.
Craig Wollman
Lingo Specialist
Word of Mouth Productions
212-928-9581
www.wordofmouthpros.com
"martynrlee" <[email protected]> wrote in
message
news:ettocs$8ko$[email protected]..
> Hi Guys,
>
> Really need your help on this one. My goal is to find
the optimal video
> format, data-rate and frame-rate to import 2-3 min video
pieces into
> director.
> I have the latest versions of Director and Sorensen.
>
> The projector size is 1000 x 700 pixels to be
distributed on dvd.
>
> The original video files are mixed formats. I have some
640 x 425 AVI CAD
> movies, some DV movies at NTSC resolution and some 720 x
540 QTVR files
> converted to .avi.
>
> The file types I am testing at the moment are SWF and
QUICKTIME .MOV, with
> mixed results on different systems. The best results so
far are from
> converting
> to SWF at 2500 kbps with 25 fps keeping original size. I
am then
> stretching the
> movies in director to fit 1000 x 670.
>
> Ideally I would like each movie to play back at a
setting of 1000 x 670
> inside
> the projector, so that I can add movie controls at the
bottom of the
> projector.
>
> Can anyone point me in the right direction? Am I doing
something wrong
> here or
> is this the reality of using Director for what I am
trying to acheive. I
> seem
> to be spending hours trying various formats and
data-rates but with very
> average performance.
>
>
>

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Athlon 64 3200
Msi K8t neo fis2r
512 infineron pc3200
Visiontek Geforce2 Ultra 64
plus all the standard equip.
What i need help on is some of these options arent really apparent to me on what they do. Hell I cant even find out if the ram is running at ddr400. I dont suspect that it is because i expected to get much better then 6200 in 3dmark01. I also was wondering with the hyper transport.. do you need 2 sticks of ram like intels version.. or am I way off base?
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also.. just let me know if im supposed to be scoring around 6200.. but i would sure hope not because my old 1.2 tbird got 4000.
almost forgot teh psu
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Dude...
You need to seriously rethink your system components.
Your PSU:
" a generic 300 watter with
3.3 -14a
5 -25a
12 -10a "
I wouldnt have even thought about using that in a new system.. Risk damaging everything. You should have AT LEAST 20amps on the 12v line.. let alone.. more than a 300 watt power supply. Make this your FIRST upgrade, and I suggest not using your computer with it.
Graphics card:
Ok.. you have a top of the line processor.. with a seriously outdated graphics card.
Its no wonder why you are getting 6000 in 3dmark 01, heck, Im surprised you even got that. Its obvious your video card is the bottleneck. Get a new one, and watch your scores shoot up.
The problem has nothing to do with your bios.
Seriously get a new PSU, and fast. Its generic, its 300 watts, and it has 10 amps on the 12v line.
Everyone that posts after me is going to say the same exact thing.
Edit: And oh yeah... The ram is most likely running at its normal speed, unless you told it to run lower. Plus, even if it was running at slower and you increased it, you wouldnt see a HUGE HUGE HUGE increase that you seem to be hoping for. Its the vid card... and I cant stress enough on how much you need a new PSU.

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Happy X-mas.. :D

optimal settings are hard to pinpoint for a board because of the individual hardware. Some RAM can be run at aggressive timings like 2-2-5-2 with 4 way bank interleave/1T timings/Ultra Timings. Other's cannot.
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I was wondering if someone had a setup like this and could give me info on what settings are the RIGHT ones to get the AMD XP 3000 up to speed? ;-)
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Quote
Did a search on the form and looked thru that posting guide with no results.
Read >>Posting Guide<< and provide full system specification.
Quote
how do you find CPU OPN code?
Look over CPU itself:

Optimal export settings for filesize?

I have a 3 minute 30s movie, 30 fps, put together from clips that I captured using camtasia studio. It's 676px x 408px.
I've edited it together in premiere cs4, but I'm having issues trying to get a good balance between filesize and quality. The best I manages with quicktime was 60mb while retaining quality, the best with mpeg-2 was 122mb.
This is out of my area of expertise but those numbers seem high. I created a quicktime version that was 30mb, but the quality was terrible,
Please could anyone give me some suggestions on which codecs and settings I should be looking at to try and get the filesize down?

I find H.264 to give me the best quality with the smallest file. But there's really no magic formula here. Trial and error is the name of the game when it comes to specific settings.

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