Lenovo l220x optimal calibration settings

Hi all,
I recently bought my lenovo l220x monitor, it is a great monitor, but when I went to 2 of non profesional monitors they displayed one picture that I chose allmost the same, but diferent than my lenovo displays it, problem is with preset sRGB, my lenovo shows much warmer picture than those 2 monitors.
I do 3d design and graphic design, I don't own a calibrator, but is there some "home made" preset on how to set colors right on l220x, a step by step description would be verry usefull-
Thanks

Hi! You can try this setting.
Brightness: 51%
Contrast: 72%
Red: 54
Green: 48
Blue: 59
I use L220x via DVI on my T60 (connect to Mini-Dock) with this setting and find that the color saturation is lower than the preset "sRGB", which is better for me.

Similar Messages

Request for optimal calibration settings for Lenovo ThinkVision monitors

I understand one person's settings may not hold true for someone else's given display variances, but I would very much like to get anyone's suggested, optimal picture settings for each of the below two monitors.
Primarily monitor 1 looks way worse than monitor 2 for me, but I still want help with both. Models listed below. Please include each item/setting with # used so I can try them out and see if it helps.
Monitor 1: LEN L1900pA
Monitor 2: LEN LT1913pA
Thank you for your help!

Hi Jwhyrock,
Jwhyrock reply,
I played with settings on all 3 monitors. Not entirely sure I like what I did, but it is a bit better. I would still like to see what settings anyone else is using for their display such as contrast, brightness, color saturation etc.
Below is the link on how to setup the default calibration for display, please follow the steps. And also suggest you to check with resetting the Monitor to factory default setting in the monitor, or you can also check with installing Monitor .inf for the specific model which can be downloaded from the manufacturer link.
Display Calibration
Hope this helps!
Best regards,
Hemanth Kumar
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Optimal picture settings, calibrations, and adjustments for 65x850c?

Just got a new 65x850C TV this week. Any one have any recommended calibration settings? Thanks in advance

Thanks Frank.
I see what you are saying about IPhoto saving a different image (a jpeg in the Previews folder I presume) but I believe IPhoto does save the edits - as they always show in the Edit section for the modified photos (ie if I up the exposure by half a stop, IPhoto does somehow retain that info).
From an IPhoto point of view only, it is possible to look at any edited photo and:
1) make a note of all edits on the modified picture
2) revert to original (to get back to the raw file)
3) re-apply the exact same edit settings to generate the same adjustments on the raw pic.
My point is that both raw and adjustments information are available in IPhoto and I was really expecting the importing process from IPhoto to Aperture to be more clever in a similar fashion:
1) make a note of all edits on the modified picture (from IPhoto)
2) Import the RAW version into IPhoto
3) re-apply the exact same edit settings (mapped from IPhoto edits to Aperture adjustments) to generate the same adjustments, on the raw pic, in Aperture - thus creating a single version containing the IPhoto adjustments but based on a Raw master.
To be honest, the way Apple "sells" how easy it is to move from IPhoto to Aperture and retain all the editing effort is a bit misleading to my taste based on the above... And with all the hangs/crashes I have been experiencing with Aperture (my machine is very stable otherwise - even IPhoto with a 100GB+ library never crashes), I feel quite let down with Aperture.
Do you know if a script would allow to apply the steps that I described above?
Thanks,
Jeremie

Changed Calibration Settings, Big Problems Now with sRGB

I use Lightroom 1.3.1 on a PC with Windows. I've been using Lightroom for about a year for the same workflow (creating images for web primarily). I use a Canon 5D.
Today I changed the Camera Calibration Settings in the Develop module. I downloaded the "CAL ACR Calibrated" Settings and imported them. I may have downloaded settings for the 30D if that matters. With the new calibration settings, my reds looked MUCH better and I was very pleased.
Then I went to Library module. In that module the colors were washed out as before. Hmmm. Anyway, I exported to Photoshop using ProPhoto RGB (as always). The photos looked fine in Photoshop with the same great colors.
THEN I tried to convert the photos to sRGB. The nice reds went back to the washed out, orangish color they were before. I tried all the different conversion options with the same result. My work flow hasn't changed otherwise, and I have never had this problem. (My Photoshop color settings should be correct and my monitor is profiled, etc). For the record, photos that I exported previously (before making the calibration changes) still look the same and render to sRGB the same as always.
Can anyone please help!? Is this a bug in Lightroom?

>he more I think my issue is related to the difference between my monitor's color gamut and sRGB
It is definitely possible but would be very suprising as your monitor is supposed to be wider than sRGB in red. What happens when you take the saturated sRGB red image in Photoshop and soft proof for your monitor profile? You should NOT check preserve RGB numbers. Now also check "Show gamut warning." If sRGB red is really outside your monitor's gamut, the image should turn solid gray. Even if the red is outside the gamut the shift in color should be small though and you should not get the described huge shift to orange, which makes me think the calibrator must be off a bit.
>The point people were making in that forum discussion is that most web browsers (like Firefox notably) don't render using sRGB at all, but they send ALL the color information in the image to the monitor. That means some images may appear much more saturated in Firefox than they do in color managed environments (like Photoshop or, actually, Safari I think).
The first part is true, but the second part is only true on wide gamut monitors. Your monitor is almost equal to sRGB (according to the manufacturer at least) and Firefox should look almost exactly the same as Photoshop if you use sRGB and have it correctly calibrated. On most people's monitors, colors will be less saturated than what you are seeing as almost every laptop LCD screen out there is narrower in gamut than sRGB.
>Now I'm suspecting that the reason Lightroom at default settings renders red with an orange cast (as many people report) is because they want to keep output files compatible with sRGB. Otherwise, most people would assume a red color shift means either Lightroom or Photoshop is broken.
I don't think any thought went into that. The rendering Lightroom and ACR use is based on calibration that Thomas Knoll did using reference charts. They are supposed to make ACR render colors as correctly as possible into the reference space (much wider than sRGB) under the reference conditions. No attempt is made to compress the color into sRGB or so. There is unfortunately quite a bit of variation between cameras causing the oranges that people report.
>The discussion in that forum (can't find the link unfortunately) was basically about how difficult it is for SmugMug to display and print photos in a consistent way given the lack of a real standard, because more and more people buy monitors that display more than the sRGB gamut, and browsers don't display sRGB by default.
As always smugmug (and I love them BTW) is trying to solve the wrong problem. You cannot fix people's screens and browsers. If people do not calibrate their monitor and do not use color managed browsers (i.e. Safari and Firefox 3.0 beta) there is nothing you can do to help them but tell them to ... calibrate their monitors and to use color managed browsers. If people buy wide gamut monitor and do not calibrate and color manage they are asking for trouble. Luckily they are still out of reach for most consumers.
>- see if there are updates for the monitor and/or video card
- see if there is an update for the Eye-One device
- try creating a new profile from scratch just to see
- if all else fails, buy a new calibrator
- if that fails, then try switching to my older monitor...hope not
These are great steps. You definitely should try recreating the profile from scratch. Also, the Huey Pro or Colorvision Spyder calibrators can be had for <$70 if you want to check your calibrator. Both give great results. Your calibrator should do a good job, but it is always possible that you have a dud. Again, your monitor should give a response very close to sRGB in unmanaged apps, making images appear the same or very close in managed and unmanaged apps if the screen is calibrated.

?Optimal Photoshop settings for slideshow-iMovie then iDVD

I know that there are many posts about file size and pixel size for optimizing photos prior to importing into iMovie or iDVD. I have read many of them, including many of them by Karl Petersen, but have been disappointed by the quality of the photos when viewed on the final DVD on my television. The problem I have it that almost ALL of my photos are portrait style and not landscape. A lot of the discussions center around avoiding pillarboxes, which I cannot avoid with vertical pictures
All of the photos are shot RAW on a Nikon D70 and imported into Photoshop.
Can anyone make recommendations on the optimal photoshop settings for creating the files to import for a slideshow in iDVD.
Specifically, in Photoshop, for vertically oriented pictures, what would be the recommendation for:
1) File size and best way to control that in Photoshop. Should I increase the file size on the original RAW image import? (I currently use the 2000x3008 6MP default)
2) Should each photo be cropped to an exact size or can I keep a specific aspect ratio instead?
3) Should I use a pixel aspect ratio other than normal? (These will all be viewed in the US )
4) Should the photos be imported into iMovie first and go through KB (even with no zooming) or can they go into iDVD?
Many Thanks!!!
Dual 1.42 MHz G4, 2 GB RAM Mac OS X (10.4.7) iMovieHD 6.0.2, iDVD 6.0.2

Since posting the test I suggested you run, Alesse, I've done some testing of my own, with some interesting results. They aren't going to help you much, I'm afraid, but they might shed some light on the whole process of making slideshows.
I do everything I can to maximize image quality in iMovie slideshows. Then I've wondered what affect iDVD has on the result.
So today I played the same slideshow from three sources. One version from the camera, one version from iDVD and one version from a Digital Video Recorder (DVR).
First I created a slideshow where the same photos were imported four different ways, each as a four 4-second clip. The test used rather simple photos, 1600x1200 jpegs, about 500k each, from an old Nikon Coolpix 950.
The images were delivered to the iMovie four ways:
1) I imported the sequence of images into QuickTime Player, then saved that as two DV streams, one Progressive and one Interlaced. These were dropped into the Media folder as described above. iMovie "adopted" them when I re-opened the project. (They were NOT imported by iMovie.)
2) I imported the same images with Ken Burns ON (but with no animation); and
3) I imported the same images with Ken Burns OFF.
The four clips of each image were arranged side-by-side on the Timeline, so I could easily compare their quality while played on the TV.
(The images were selected to include those that are easy to encode by iDVD and images difficult to encode — having lots of high-contrast lines like roof lines, lap-siding on buildings, telephone lines, the kind of content that tends to acquire the "jaggies". I avoided the bug where iMovie adds jaggies if you grant it permission to render UNrendered images as you export the project to iDVD or to the camera.)
I wanted to compare the quality of three kinds of slideshows:
1) the slideshow played from the camera;
2) the slideshow burned by iDVD and
3) the slideshow burned by a standalone DVR.
To make the three slideshows, I did this:
1) used iDVD to burn a DVD of the iMovie project;
2) exported the iMovie slideshow project back to the camera; and
3) connected the camera to a Digital Video Recorder (DVR) and burned a DVD on the DVR. This was so I could compare the quality of iDVD to a DVR recording.
Then I connected the camera to the TV so I could compare it, in turn, to each of the DVDs. Because each image played for a total of 16 seconds, I was able to play both the DVD and the camera simultaneously and switch the TV back and forth between the two inputs to compare the image quality of the camera to a DVD.
RESULT
• The camera image was superior in all respects to both the DVDs, as one would expect. Considerably better. There were virtually no jaggies. Subtler colors. Less contrast. iMovie 6 was obviously delivering the goods. Great quality, on every clip.
• At first I thought the DVR image was better than the iDVD image, but reconsidered that later. Each had its own positive qualities. There was little difference. Each was slightly better in some respects than the other, worse in others. It was basically a wash. Both had about the same amount of jaggies, sometimes in different places.
• Another interesting result was that all the clips — from all four sources — played basically the same on the camera and on the two DVDs. There was very little difference among the four import methods. (I expected more difference.)
• There WAS an obvious difference among clips played in iMovie, however. The DV stream exported as a DV Progressive movie displayed with better quality in iMovie itself. The difference wasn't huge, but it was sharper, more "life-like".
• It is obvious that encoding an iMovie project to the MPEG-2 format used by a DVD — whether by iDVD or by a DVR — sacrifices quality. You won't notice it much on some images — flowers, faces, landscapes — but you will see jaggies on others.
• When the test was over, I watched a DVD slideshow of the same images I had burned a few weeks ago containing three iMovie widescreen formats: DV Widescreen, 720p, and 1080i. It was a close call, but I think they were all slightly better than the DV slideshow. Some images, especially, were better.
CONCLUSIONS
If you want the best playback quality possible, use the camcorder to play the slideshow on the TV, not a DVD.
To avoid the jaggies, it may be necessary to avoid certain photos. It's hard to tell which those are until you play the DVD on a TV. Plan to burn a DVD, then purge the images that acquire bad jaggies and burn it again.
Softening the TV picture can help. My TV offers a tremendous range of sharpness, a feature common to new TVs.
• My guess is that until we can burn Hi-Def DVDs, our huger and huger TVs are going to make the problem of DVD quality worser and worser. My slideshows would probably all look great on yesterday's "huge" 20" TV.
• I don't have DVD Studio Pro to test. Perhaps someone can compare that too?
Anyway, I hope something here helps.
Karl

Imitating Camera Raw Calibration settings with Adjustment layers

Hi,
I do quite a lot color grading and color manipulation with Lightroom, Photoshop and Speedgrade.
Sometimes I like to use Camera Raw "Camera calibration" Settings to play with hues of the image.
I have yet to found a way to imitate or reproduce the look with Adjustment layers inside Photoshop.
I have tried with channel mixers and hue/saturation adjustment layers with no good results.
I want to use Adjustment Layers because then I can export the look as Lookup table for other applications.
Do you have any hints how i could achieve these kind of effects as in the sample image below?
Cheers,
Otso

This mode in Camera Raw / Camera Calibration adjusts the three primaries of the camera sensor.
This is equivalent to an adjustment of the chromaticity coordinates of the working space primaries.
These are not directly accessible in an image processing workflow. One had to modify the ICC profile
of the working space.
The purpose of this hue modification in ACR is (in my humble opinion) a weak correction of the camera
sensor primaries, perhaps because of ag(e)ing (though I never heard of).
This is the effect, but with unknown scale factor:
(neg) shift toward-----Original------(pos) shift toward
magenta-----------------red-------------yellow
yellow--------------------green----------cyan
cyan----------------------blue------------magenta
IMO, one cannot mimic this effect.
Best regards --Gernot Hoffmann

LP2475 - best colour calibration settings for stock photography

Hi - I have just purchased the LP2475 and am new at colour calibration. The general colour seems very over saturated.
I am mainly using the monitor it to do 2 main things :
1) using lightroom / pshop and adjusting photos that will be available online for stock photography purchasing.
2) using lightroom /pshop and adjusting panos to print via 2 out-of-house print companies.
I understand that I have to buy a colour calibration device and I will make up custom printer profiles for the 2 different companies where I get my photos printed (one is a canvas & one is a photo printing company).
However, the issue lies in what general calibration settings I should have in lightroom / pshop for my stock photos - because once sold, they will be printed on all various types of printers, and viewed through various types of monitors - most not calibrated. So what are good general settings. It seems very over saturated with colour, and I cannot actually seem to adjust the saturation in the button menu on the monitor as this setting is greyed out.
Thanks
Lucy

I recently bought a Spyder2Pro, which was
recommended
by Scott Kelby, Editor of Photoshop User Magazine,
and am very happy with it. The main difference
between Spyder2Pro and Spyder2 are multiple
monitor
support and more choices for monitor gamma and
tempereature settings. Since I use multiple
monitors, I went for Spyder2Pro, although it was a
bit more pricy (got it for $189 at JR.com). All
my
monitors were calibrated very quickly and I was
amazed how much difference the tool made. If you
have one monitor to calibrate, I think Spyder2
would
be fine (it was $89 at JR.com a few days ago).
One hint with the multiple monitor thing is that on
the Mac, all of these tools just end up generating an
ICC profile that gets assigned to your monitor.
What that means is that they all actually support
multiple monitors, just not all automatically... for
the ones that do not know how to select displays, you
can just move the menu bar to whatever screen you
wish to profile and the software should create a
profile for that screen.
I use the EyeOne and like it a lot. But any hardware
calibrator is better than none.
As a side note, I think using a color temperature of
65k for the monitor and a gamma of 2.2 is really a
good setting to use with any calibrator.
Svendo,
I fully support the comments in this post but still prefer the GM Eye 1. Dont try to do the job with your eye. 99 times out of 100 you will be way off the mark.

Optimal Playable Settings

I used to have an nVidia card and you could check the optimal playable settings for their cards for certain games on their website. I was wondering if anyone here knew of a similar tool for ATI cards? Some games just won't auto select the settings according to your system (Deus Ex: Human Revolution for example). Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Quote from: Svet on 04-October-11, 04:34:48
http://www.pcgamer.com/2011/05/03/deus-ex-human-revolution-system-specs/
I've looked at the system requirements. Thank you though. I'm talking about each specific setting in the games graphic settings.

Reviews Lenovo L220x

Translated review:
http://66.102.9.104/translate_c?hl=en&sl=cs&u=http://www.svethardware.cz/art_doc-F4D05AD17C0A9151C12573EE002EFD93.html&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dxl20%2B%2Bdelta...
Prad.de review:
http://www.prad.de/en/monitore/review/2008/review-lenovo-l220x.html

Hi! You can try this setting.
Brightness: 51%
Contrast: 72%
Red: 54
Green: 48
Blue: 59
I use L220x via DVI on my T60 (connect to Mini-Dock) with this setting and find that the color saturation is lower than the preset "sRGB", which is better for me.

MBA display calibration settings

Hi,
Got a 11in MBA 2011 recently, very happy with it. Until now, however, I was unable to calibrate the screen. But yesterday X-Rite released the calibration software for my eye-one display 2 that is compatible with OSX Lion.
I'm unsure what settings to use with the MBA display? White point D65 (or higher?), Luminance 100 or 120?, gamma 2.2.
I believe my display is the one made by LG.
Thanks a lot!
Hans

It is an LCD display, the back light is LED. Use LCD

Calibration settings on new iMac 20" to get screen closer to acceptable?

I was just wondering if anyone has plugged in settings while calibrating to get the new (horribly inadequate) 20" screens to look decent. I've tried a few times and it never seems to get close enough. I keep ending up with it being too bright and washed out (maybe gamma too high?). So, I was wondering if anyone had any quick settings that they find have helped this screen out any. I'm hoping for anything that would help.

First off, you will never get it to be perfect - but, to be fair, it is a trade-off between price and quality.
Some people are happy with the improvement by choosing the sRGB profile under System Preferences - Displays - Color (you have to uncheck the box limiting the list to device profiles). This is awfully wrong from a color management point of view (a generic color space is not a valid device profile), but it is obviously closer than the default profile, which is way off.
To get a much better result, you will need to hardware calibrate the display (using a Spyder2/3, eyeOne, etc.) and even then, do not expect miracles. The quality of the panel limits the possible outcome, a TN panel will always have banding issues with gradients and some vertical color shifts. Maybe a colleague or friend can borrow you some calibration hard- and software to give it a try? You should aim for a gamma of 2.2, native white point (and a target luminance around 120 cd/m2 in case you intend to proof prints).

Looking For Optimal Wireless Settings For Multiple WRT310N's

Folks, I have 3 Linksys WRT310N routers (all at the most current level firmware) around my house serving as both wired and wireless access points. I have Verizon DSL service (3 MB) as my ISP. We have a couple of IBM T60p laptops (w/Win XP Pro), a Lenovo S12 netbook (w/Win 7), and my son also has an Apple iPod Touch all that access our home network via the wireless network provided by the WRT310N's. The WRT310N's all have unique static IP addresses (DHCP disabled - IP addresses being issued by the Verizon DSL modem/router). My current wireless settings are as follows:
Wireless / Basic Wireless Setings:
Wireless Configuration = Manual
Network Mode = Mixed
Network Name (SSID) = (something other than linksys!)
Radio Band = Auto
Wide Channel = Auto
Standard Channel = Auto
SSID Broadcast = Enabled (Need enabled or the Apple iPod Touch will not find the wireless network)
Wireless / Wireless Security:
Security Mode = WPA2 Personal
Encryption = TKIP or AES
Passphrase = (Something really clever here!)
Key Renewal = 3600 seconds
Wireless / Wireless MAC Filter:
Enabled (With all the appropriate MAC addresses permitted)
Wireless / Advanced Wireless Settings:
AP Isolation = Enabled
Frame Burst = Enabled
Authentication Type = Auto (greyed out - can NOT change)
Basic Rate = Default
Transmission Rate = Auto (greyed out - can NOT change)
N Transmission Rate = Auto
CTS Protection Mode = Auto
Beacon Interval = 100
DTIM Interval = 1
Fragmentation Threshold = 2346
RTS Threshold = 2347
My goal is obviously to provide the best performance on all the wireless devices that we have. Since the laptops and netbook have a variety of OS's (and sometimes our neighbor comes over with his Mac laptop) I'd like to keep it flexable for those PC's and the Apple iPod Touch. I've also read that if you have multiple wireless access points you should set them all to different channels. If so, which channels? Or, should they all be on the same channel so one could walk from room to room without losing their wireless connection? Since I have 3 WRT310N's I'm interested in what recommendations there are for performance to keep the laptops and netbook communicating using wireless "N" yet keeping compatible for the Apple iPod Touch on wireless "G". Thank you all in advance for any advice or info.

Hmmmm, for quite some time I've left the SSID the same on all the WRT310N routers. At one time a while back I was told to do this by a Linksys technician. They all are cascaded (LAN-to-LAN via the ethernet ports) off of the 4 ethernet ports on the Verizon DSL modem/router in the similar manner described in the following article:
http://www6.nohold.net/Cisco2/ukp.aspx?vw=1&docid=785463d9ecaf4cac84aed245b08d615f_3733.xml&pid=96&s...
(Switch) ethernet port 1 on each WRT310N is connected to ports 1 through 3 on the Verizon DSL modem/router. Hence, each WRT310N is acting as an access point (wired and wireless) throughout the house. I do NOT use the 'Internet' port on any of my WRT310N routers. They each have a static (fixed) IP address like 192.16.1.10, 192.168.1.11 and 192.168.1.12. They all reside on the same LAN subnet as my Verizon DSL modem/router which is responsible for issuing DHCP IP addresses for the entire home network. The remaining (switched) ethernet ports 2, 3, and 4 on each WRT310N is left open for local hard-wired devices like printers and multimedia devices (like XBox 360, etc.). So bottom line is that each WRT310N is acting like a 4-port network switch that also has wireless capabilities (like a WAP).
By keeping the SSID the same on all the WRT310N routers I can keep a single wireless profile on each device (i.e... PC's) for my entire house. So I can go and access WRT310N #1 (with let's say with SSID 'ABC') in my living room and later go into my home office room and access WRT310N #2 (with the same SSID - 'ABC') with the same wireless profile. I believe it is the same concept used when someone stays at a hotel and accesses their public wireless network. That way the hotel customers only have to set their SSID to let's say 'HILTON' regardless of which floor or room they are in.
So the part that I'm really focusing on is the wireless performance aspect. My laptops like to operate on 'N' and get pretty good connection speeds (usually receive around 270 Mbps). The Apple iPod Touch (2nd generation) only goes up to 'G' so I believe I need to keep a 'Mixed' Network Mode. The part I'm not so sure about is the Channel Width and whether or not all 3 Linksys routers should be on the same channel (or set to Auto) or if I should manually set the channels and provide some separation between their channels. That's where 'Channel Width' and 'Channel' settings get a bit over my head. Now when I previously had multiple 'G' Linksys routers I contacted Linksys Technical Support and they said to use the same SSID and that I should separate the channels, but that was with their earlier 'G' versions. Now that I have a more recent [N] version and the channel settings can be 'Auto' I'm wondering if the correct settings would still be to again separate the channels or maybe leave it up to the routers to function in 'Auto' mode.
And if I need to set each router up individually what recommended settings should they be? As follows:
WRT310N #1:
Network Mode = Mixed
Channel Width = ?
Channel = ?
WRT310N #2:
Network Mode = Mixed
Channel Width = ?
Channel = ?
WRT310N #3:
Network Mode = Mixed
Channel Width = ?
Channel = ?
Here is a Cisco web page that I'm using as a reference:
http://www6.nohold.net/Cisco2/ukp.aspx?pid=80&vw=1&articleid=21194
I'm also looking for any suggestions on tuning the Advanced Wireless Settings like Beacon Interval, Fragmentation Threshold, RTS Threshold, etc. Again, my wireless user devices are both G and N and have various OS's.
Thank you again in advance for all your help!!

Camera Calibration settings????

When I am in develop mode,and I scroll down to camera calibration tab,I usally leave it set to Abode Standard.
If I change this setting to ...Camera Standard,,I see that the hitogram changes slightly ,and the image appears sharper,with a slight increase in saturation.
Can I assume that Lightroom can detect my camera{Canon 5DII } settings,and, am I getting an assigned profile?? specically for my 5DII?
Any help/advise would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Mike

mikek244 wrote:
...Unbelievable,I never know this setting existed..Time to spend more time on this forum...
Mike,
I've suggested Adobe put Camera Profile at the top of the right-hand develop panel - as a non-collapsible ever-present setting, since its so important and frequently missed. Even after years of experience I occasionally spend several minutes editing before I realize the Camera Calibration profile is not what I want, and then start over...
In any case, I definitely think a learning resource is a good idea when first starting out. Not everything in Lightroom is obvious...
The forum is great, but also consider a book or web resource if you are really green - and dont forget Lightroom Help.
Rob

K7N2-L Most Optimized Bios Settings Required Please!

Hiya!
Any kind souls out there who can provide the best and most optimized BIOS setting for this board? Previously I recalled lots of nice people helping with their settings
Thank You!!
Benedict

Having now read the excellent post by klondike on this board I want to update my bios to the 11.50 (B50) version.
I know about all the dangers of updating your bios but as I am having prob’s with my board and it seems like the B5 bios is better that the B4, I want to update it but I have tried now for 2 hours to update it and I am obviously doing something very wrong and it is doing my head in!
I have read the MSI guide to bios updating and others on this forum but I can’t get anything to even start to work.
I have downloaded and un-zipped the B50 bios update for my board. I have put the unzipped files in a folder in the C: drive I have named “test” I have made a dos floppy and set my bios to 1st boot floppy but when I boot to it at the A prompt you type C: (and enter) and it says bad file or command (I can’t remember which) so I then tried burning the bios files to a cd and once again after booting to the dos there is no option to get it to boot or find the cd drive you just get the A: prompt
I have also tried updating it though live update but live update says the latest version is 11.4 (B4) and that is what my board already has so I can’t update it from there as MSI have not updated their live update page.
I am almost at my wits end and feel like setting light to the dam thing, all I want to do is up date my bios its not that hard I have done it before on other pc’s but I can’t remember how I did it! (thats my age)
Please can someone spare me a few minutes to talk me though this.

Optimal Bios settings....

Good to see the forum back up....
I have a k7n420 pro based system and just stuck in a gainward GF4 TI4200 golden sample, which is working out brilliantly, I mean 3dmarks around 9065! with standard fsb etc etc.
Anyway I saw a review of the card with a very similar system (same 1800 xp processor, 512 meg ddr memory, different mobo) and assuming they hadn't overclocked anything, they were getting 1K over my marks. I don't think that the different board would make that much difference.
so my question to you all is, what should I be looking at in the BIOS to ensure the board is running optimally at NORMAL clock speeds? I've seen settings for agp apature size etc and have no idea what effect they have to overall performance with an agp card. any ideas?
thanks for any advice
Rich.

A lot of times reviewers test different hardware configs with an immediate clean install of windows. You would not think it but the more apps (junk)you have that steal your ram and hard drive space will also degrade your performance. I have always found that windows os's are a heck of a lot speedier without all this junk, XP included. I wonder also alot of time that reviewers may get hand picked pieces to be reviewed, they use better quality ram in their machines than most of us. The absolute worst thing you can do, though, is download synthetic bench's like sandra and try to compare your performance to the samples of performance of a given setup.
Sandra is a freeking liar.
Ram timings are also a potential performance boost, but I don't think they would be worth 1000 marks.
Anyway, man, don't fret. At least it ain't crashing.
Wise

Lenovo l220x optimal calibration settings

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