Resolution for .mov files for film festivals

Some film festivals are asking for .mov files for screenings. Nowhere can I find what type or resolution they want or if there's an industry standard.
I have seen that if they play it back from a laptop (and you never know) that too high a resolution won't work.
Is there a standard for movie theaters?
Thanks.

Neal Fox wrote:
… Is there a standard for movie theaters?…
Yes and No
DCP is a worldwide, digital delivery standard for commercial theaters. But, by standards, is for example 'limited' to 24fps - sad news, for Mr P. Jackson or J.Cameron (no idea, how HFR nor 3D is delivered…)
highly complex to encode, there are specialized companies offering 'transfer services' - $$$, creates enormous files (an intra-compression codec), asks for 'Linux formatted/ext2'-drives, etc etc etc ,.. . (just read about it - no clue what I'm talking about!!)
Plan B)
ask the theatre what they want …or use.
Plan C)
1080/24p, h.264/high profile/20mbps in a mp4 should be very universal … (who asks for mov can playback mp4 too)
… but then, next question:
What media? stick, dataDisk, hard drive, ftp-upload?
What format? fat32 (doesn't work for longer movies…), exFat, ntfs??
some non-commercial festivals allow/prefer delivery by BluRay or even on DVD ...
again, 'limited' too, but very, very universal …

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FCE project to DVD and to actual film for film festivals

I'm almost done with a documentary around 1 hour in length. I want to enter it in a few film festivals. Some require DVD format, another needs an actual film copy of it after submission (if it gets in). I'm also trying to get use of a movie theatre to show a private screening of it when finished.
Here's the question. Will everything be messed up because FCE uses 30 frames per second and film uses 24 fps? Can the transfer be made from a DVD itself or what steps do I need to take to have a good quality copy of a DVD and film too.
I've just learned FCE for this project and haven't output anything yet. Only have experience with iMovie to iDVD or using Toast to burn DVD of past projects.
Thanks for any help you can give.
Anne Z

The film will cost you around $20000 and if you think now about this issue - that is kind of very late in the game. If you need help look here:
http://www.hdforindies.com
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Poor resolution for Keynote .mov file

Hello,
Just getting started with Keynote. I'm putting together courseware and will be using Keynote to support the presentation. I have several .mov clips I need to integrate into the presentation. I embedded a .mov file into a Keynote slide and then saved and exported the Keynote file by SHARE > EXPORT > Formats: Web Movie, Small.
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Ramone

You've probably picked the lowest settings and therefor the lowest resolution!
If you go to the export menu and chose a higher setting or even tinker the custom settings to get the balance of file size / quality you want.
It may also be worth making the slide size smaller (in the inspector)so when you export it's not being downsized in the same way if you need a smaller video (height, width, not file size)

Exact import settings for .mov files via MPEG Streamclip?

Ok, as I mentioned in this other thread , I'm looking to import some files recorded at an odd resolution into FCE.
Resizing my 512x288 files to 720x480 looks like it works, as well as with my 640x480 ones (don't know how it'll ultimately mess with the quality)... but I did do a test using some footage from 3 different video sources with different native resoultions, a)720x480 Sony DV Cam, b) 512x288 captured by helmet cam on Archos PMA 430, and c) 640x480 captured on Canon SD600, as well as .jpeg photos at 640x480 res.
I changed the odd sizes (Archos & Canon) to 720x480 using MPEG Streamclip, resampling the sound uncompressed at 48 khz, using the Apple DV/DVCPRO NTSC compression option. Importing these files into FCE, I mixed them and the Sony standard footage, and a few pictures up on a timeline, rendered it and exported it to a QT file, then burnt a CD. It appears to have worked to my satisfaction.
My question is, before I go and convert about 60 5-10 minute clips to this 720x480 resolution for use in a full length documentary, are there any settings I should be ticking off on the MPEG Streamclip interface to maximize the likelihood that the final project will work as well as the test did?
Below are the options I selected in the test, which seemed to work:
MPEG STREAMCLIP
Compression: Apple DV/DVCPRO-NTSC
Quality: 100%
Sound: Uncompressed Stereo 48 KHZ
Frame Size: 720x480
Frame Rate: 29.97
Checked boxes for:
-Frame Blending
-Better Downscaling
-Interlaced Scaling
Zoom: 100%
X/Y: 1
Center: 0,0
Field Dominance: Upper field first
That's about it. I tried doing similar conversions in a trial version of DIVX Converter pro, but the quality was noticibly lower than in MPEG streamclip. Maybe I just had the wrong settings in it.
Anyway, Tom Wolsky has mostly got me on the right track in the last post "...so the material needs to be a .mov QuickTime file in DV NTSC, at 29.97fps, audio should be Linear PCM with a sample rate of 48KHz, and frame resolution of 720x480 using the CCIR601 digital video aspect ratio... be warned you're scaling up a very, very heavily compressed video stream, so it's going to look less than optimal when you make it DV. I can't believe they can do 192kbps at that frame rate, when DV, which is heavily compressed as well, is 3.5MB/sec."
I have no idea if what I described in my test is heavily compressed or not, so couldn't really say how the settings I mentioned above affect Tom's latter advice.
Anyway, any help would be welcome before I encode all these files. Thanks.
iMac 17-inch 1.83GHz Intel Core Duo Mac OS X (10.4)

I'm kind of confused because the only settings I could find on the Handycam for audio are 12 khz and 16 khz, and though I think I filmed them at 12, I've captured the footage at both within FCE... I'm not sure either have shown any probs when imported at 48 khz as yet. Not sure if that's because they are a multiple of 48 or I just got lucky. Either way, 1) does the audio bit rate the footage was captured at (12 khz) change to 16 if changed on the camcorder (or is it solely what the original was filmed in, period) prior to capture on FCE, 2) and if so or if not, how serious of a problem will it pose, if I do nothing and keep the FCE settings at the normal NTSC 48khz, in later stages of production considering there will be a lengthy timeline?
iMac 17-inch 1.83GHz Intel Core Duo Mac OS X (10.4)

Best way to export a 720p project to a 1080 file for film festival

I have a 4 year long project, in FCP7, with a 720/24 timeline. Most footage was shot 720, though some later was shot 1080... the film is complete, and now has been accepted into film festivals. (YAY!) Now I need to create a 1080/24 Pro Res file for a festival screener.
What is the BEST way to create that file?
Right now FCP 7 is chugging away in the background as I tried Export->QuickTime Movie and selected the desired codec, and checked recompress all frames and make movie self contained.
Is this the best way?
And, I need to FedEx this out tonight... :-)
Thanks in advance for your help...
kevin
Portland Maine

>Right now FCP 7 is chugging away in the background as I tried Export->QuickTime Movie and selected the desired codec, and checked recompress all frames and make movie self contained.
No. Don't recompress...that adds a layer of compression. Simply export a QT movie...self contained, using the sequence settings. And then use Compressor to resize it to 1080.

Resolution for Still Photos for film

Greetings,
I have a full length Digital Video film and want to add still photos to it. I have been using Photo to Movie software to add a Ken Burns effect to the photo, then exporting it under the movie format- DV(NTSC) 720x480, then importing that to the final cut time line. My question is what is the best resolution in the first place for the still photo before I do this process or is it okay to use the final render size from the Photo to Movie export? Or do you have a better idea.

I would suggest you to check your export preferences but it is my understanding that if you render the movie file, and then export, it you should be able to set the QT option for NTSC DV.

Movie file too big for DVD

I've just finished a short film using FCP HD 4.5. DV PAL 720x576 and i need to get it onto a DVD.
I exported it from FCP as a Quicktime movie and it weighs 5.41Go. How do i make it lighter to go on a DVD of only 4.7 Go? I tried reexporting it by using Custom settings in the window that pops up when ur about to export. In this window I tried to lower the quality from 100 to 75%. The resulting file was the same size. I tried to use a smaller resolution 600x480. File was same size. What is the secret to getting movies on DVD's?
The DVD needs to be able to work with a living room DVD player. Is Toast Lite 6.1 ok for doing this? In all that jungle of DVDs with R's and RW's and +/- etc etc what is my best bet for a DVD that can be seen by a majority of people? Would be grateful for any help, and in the meantime i'm going to check through the forum ... i'm sure i'm not the only one who's had this problem.
Thanks
dswimmer

What is the secret to getting movies on DVD's?<<</div>
The secret? It's no secret at all ... its called compression. In particular, MPEG-2 compression.
Regular DV25 (DV/DVCam/DVCPro) takes up about 13gb per hour. Since a single layer DVD (DVD-5) only has about 4.3gb of space available, the video will have to be compressed to MPEG-2, which is the current standard format for standard definition DVD-Video. Since your final program is to be view on TV sets, you'll want to maintain the same settings, frame rate and resolution as you have in FCP.
The process of compressing is also often called encoding. The basic process can be done from FCP via several methods;
1. Export from FCP "Using QuickTime Conversion" (no longer available with QT 7) - select MPEG-2 from the format menu of the export dialog, then use the options button to specify bit rate and other parameters. The result will be an MPEG-2 (.m2v) file along with an AIF audio file of the same name. Normally you'll need to convert the AIF files into AC3 using APack (bundled with DVD-SP) in order to save room on the DVD for video and menus, etc.
2. Export from FCP "Using Compressor." You can choose an appropriate preset or modify one to suit your needs. The result is the same as above so you'll still need to convert the AIF file into AC3. If you have Compressor 2, they've added the option of AC3 encoding so you won't have to use APack.
After you've done either 1 or 2 above, import the .m2v and AC3 files into DVD-SP for authoring, compiling (muxing) and burning.
Or you can export from FCP via "QuickTime Movie" (either self-contained or reference) then encode that file in Compressor or import it directly into iDVD or DVD-SP for encoding, authoring and muxing.
Toast and other third party programs can do MPEG-2 encoding, but in tests I've run, the quality of the compression from Toast was among the lowest.
so that it can be read both by an ordinary living-room dvd player (what's the english expression for that?!)<<</div>
We generally just call them DVD players or set top players.
In all that jungle of DVDs with R's and RW's and +/- etc etc what is my best bet for a DVD that can be seen by a majority of people?<<</div>
Don't use RWs for distribution - they have a much lower compatibility rate among DVD players. Currently -R has a very slight advantage over +R but the gap is so close it shouldn't make much of a difference with most later model DVD players.
I notice that the colour seems a little faded when i watch the DVD on my TV<<</div>
This can happen if your DVD player adds set up to the video signal output. Basically it increases the black level by about 7.5 IRE which has the effect of reducing contrast and can make colors start to look a little flat. Some models that do this have a black level control in their menu.
-DH

HT3523 I can play an .mov file but cannot open it to move it to another drive/disc/etc. When we try to open it, we get a message that says "The movie file for "beanmine.mov" cannot be found. Without this file, the movie cannot play properly."

We can play a .mov file (a full-length film created in final cut pro) but cannot actually open it in QuickTime. We get the error message saying that a file is missing, and the movie can't play properly without the file. The thing is, we can play the film, we just can't open it to move it to another drive. Help?
Also, can the lost file (which was deleted) be recovered from a Mac HD or an external hard drive?
Help!

We can play a .mov file (a full-length film created in final cut pro) but cannot actually open it in QuickTime. We get the error message saying that a file is missing, and the movie can't play properly without the file. The thing is, we can play the film, we just can't open it to move it to another drive. Help?
Sounds like you created a "Reference" file here. I.e., a "Reference" file is a file that tells the player how to play the data contained in a "Resource" file. When you try to open the "Reference" file in the QT Player app, the first thing the player does is check to see if the "Resource" data file is is still available where it is supposed to be. (I.e., moving/deleting the resource file or moving reference file without moving the resource file to maintain the relative path between the two will generate the error message you mentioned.)
Also, can the lost file (which was deleted) be recovered from a Mac HD or an external hard drive?
That depends. Deleting a file does not actually erase the data immediately. Instead, the operating system just tells the system directory that the space containing the movie data is available for reuse if/when needed. As time passes, the chance that some of the data sectors will be re-written by other data continuously increases. To restore the file normally requires use of a special utility that both locates and restores all of the linked sectors containing the "deleted" movie data in their correct order. Other methods of restoring files would depend on the software you routinely have active on your system. For instance, do you use "TimeMachine?" or orther software that automatically backs up your data periodically? If so, then follow the instructions for your particular application to recover a deleted file.

HELP! Extremely Worried for Film Project (lost files) (please read urgent)

Okay so here is the dilemma-
Here I am tonight, plugging away at the editing process for a short film that I filmed in California back in February, and have had various other film producers and buddies filming at random times out there since. I had all of my footage on a WD Storage drive (this included pretty much all of the video files), and I had already imported all of the files into premiere and was about to begin editing the footage with them. Suddenly, I noticed that I was going low in memory space on my hard drive that I was working on, so I saved my Premiere File, then selected it, dropped it over into the WD Storage Drive that also contained all the footage from the film, and clicked on it to open it from there. However, when I opened the premiere file this time, it asked me to located "MVI_6104.mov", the first .mov file out of 400 that I had in there... and I couldn't find it. I looked for the source files in the new hard drive I'd just moved my premiere file into (where they just were at), i looked for them in my old hard drive, and in the three additional hard drives I have sitting next to my Mac... but the files had simply vanished without a trace. I checked the trash, nothing, and I havent deleted any files all night. They're simply gone, and I've hand combed every inch of every hard drive... will someone please help me? Without this footage I am dead and I am willing to get it back at all costs. Already ran a few of the free data recovery scans, but to no avail.. they picked up nothing. I literally have no idea what happened and I am currently having a panic attack. Thank you so much for your time and I really hope you can help me find an answer.
Thanks.
-Colin

@JudeCotter-
The files used to be in a clearly marked folder on my hard drive labelled "Death Rides The Apocalypse Source Files" (the name of the film). I've searched every hard drive I own for the files and nothing. I can't find even a trace of them existing in the first place. The entire folder that used to be there is gone along with the files! Very strange.
@shooternz-
Thanks. I searched the external drive first with data deletion recovery services, then by myself and I hand combed through all of the folders and video files. I even specifically searched the drive for file names in case I missed something, but nothing. I run OS X 10.6.8, and Premiere Pro CS5.5 The original source files were on the external hard drive with a tetrabyte of space that I attempted to move the PPro project onto, but now their original folders, names, files and everything have literally vanished. The project file doesn't matter since I just started editing but I lost all of the footage in there. The external hard drive still has around 765.3 GB of space left so I doubt I killed it simply moving a project over , but you never know. It was odd, when I moved it, the "Move In Progress" window with the twisting progress bar flashed for a second that it was to move 186.5 GB (which would accurately be around the amount of footage we had), but suddenly flashed and just moved it over in a second. Maybe this will shed some light. I'm extremely confused and worried. Thank you.

How to search for movie files on harddrive?

Saw today in Lions new layout under "This Computer" that my harddrive contains 147GB (out of 320 GB) of movies.
Is there any clever way to track those movie files.
The movie files are probably spread all over the computer. I have for instace made a great deal of Final Cut clips
that tend to be saved in several copies spread in different folders. Besides that, I probably have film and film clips in every imaginable file format that have been saved and forgotten through the years :-) (my iMac is from -07)
Any clever tips highly appreciated - Need more space!!
/Friss

The Finder can do this for you.
Just open a Finder window and hit Command-F
Then, in the search bar set the 'Kind' to 'Movie'.
Done. It'll find all the movie files on your disk which you can then organize as you see fit.

Best MPEG Streamclip settings for exporting a .mov file? Please help!

Am really stuck... I have a 1.6GB VOB file (which also exists in copy as a 2GB and a 1GB .mov file). I need to make a quicktime copy of the movie to upload online, but the maximum limit is 500MB. Because it's for a contact for a film festival, it needs to be as high quality as humanly possible, but has to be sent online. What precise settings should I use? I'm in the UK. Can anyone help me? Would be seriously grateful.

We don't care how big the original is; it is the length that matters. Take your limit of 500MB and multiply by 1024 to get megabits. Divide that number by the length in seconds of your movie. That is your bitrate in megabits per second. Duplicate one of the best-quality presets and change the bitrate. Make sure all the high quality options are on.

.mov file too big for posting on my website

i am using i-photo to create a slideshow. i've used photos that were 72 dpi on one slideshow and photos that were 300 dpi on another. i have about 55 photos on each slideshow. the 72 dpi slideshow is actually larger than the 300. what gives? i can't post either on my website for display. they are both too big (over 42mb). can anyone help me out on this and maybe give me some insight?
thanks-
i-Mac Mac OS X (10.4.7)

Hi GinaP,
Yes, the 55 images equaling 42mb sounds right. What is the limitation that you have?
There might be 2 ways to reduce the total file size.
1: You may need to reduce the resolution (dimensions and file size) of each image. You can do this in iPhoto, select image, use the Share > Export, make sure you choose the 'Scale images no larger than: insert a smaller dimension that original. This will reduce resolution which in turn will reduce the file size. I would create a new folder on your desktop, name it appropriately and export into this folder. Afterwards, just take the folder and drop into iPhoto, will import and make your slideshow... BTW - you can batch export and resize
2: If you want to keep same image dimensions but need to reduce the file size, you will need to use export function again, but then you can open your images in PREVIEW, use the SAVE AS option, you will notice a 'Quality' slide, move this to the left to 'shrink' images... and again import and make your slide show.
It's alot of work, but I know of nothing else you can do to reduce file size w/o downloading another App...
Rick
iMac G5 iSight 20" - 30G iPOD in Slimming Black - Mac OS X (10.4.7) - HP Pav 15" WS and Toshiba Sat 17" WS LP's - Canon 20D & A620

How can I convert .mov files for use with other apps?

When loading movies taken on a friend's digital camera to my PC, the video files were saved as Quicktime .mov files. I am now unable to pull those files into any other software program (I want to put them onto a CD or DVD and play on external players.) How can I convert .mov files to a .wmv or .avi or mpeg?
Thanks - J
RS720G Windows XP

Kodak Digital Camera QuickTime MOV Problems
After battling a number of serious problems with the videos taken by my new Kodak Digital Camera, I decided to write up this page so that anyone searching the web would find out the true answers without as much grief!
I’ve also made some other comments about my experience with the camera, in case anyone was considering buying a Kodak camera in the near future.
I bought the camera just before Christmas 2004 in the US. At the time of writing, it is a pretty good model for domestic use—about 5.2 megapixels, costing about US$400 (or AU$600 back here in Australia). From a company as reputable as Kodak, I expected no problems.
The first disappointing thing was that the spring inside the spring-loaded battery clip, inside the camera, came loose within days. It proved impossible to reattach it without completely dismantling the camera, which (despite my engineering qualifications) I was not willing to do. This would usually have been a warranty item, but Kodak’s warranty does not extend to other countries. I’ve since had to jam cardboard in to keep the battery clip engaged, and have taped the battery bay shut to avoid it opening accidentally when taking the camera out of the case. This works fine with the docking station (an extra AU$100!), but it means I can no longer charge the battery without the docking station (since you need to take it out to charge it). I was not impressed!
The camera takes good photos, and I have no complaint with that. The controls and camera menus are well-designed. The large display is excellent.
The EasyShare software is not as easy to use as it looks, has a habit of crashing, has a web update program that is always running in the background of Windows, and transferring images is nowhere as easy or quick as it should be. I’ve now uninstalled it completely, and simply copy the photos directly from the device. (If the camera memory is nearly full, and you just want to transfer the last few photos, then it’s impossible to use the EasyShare software to browse the camera’s photos without it actually downloading the whole lot through the USB cable—and it takes forever! Copying from the device directly doesn’t hit this bug.)
The capability to take video using the camera was a great attraction when I selected it, and, if it worked properly, it would make it quite a handy little camcorder in its own right. With a 512 MB memory card in it, over an hour of video can be recorded at Video-CD quality (320 x 240 24fps video, 8 kHz audio). It’s not full digital video, but it would still be a pretty good feature for a US$400 camera. If it worked.
The first disappointing thing about taking videos is that the optical zoom cannot be adjusted while the camera is recording. It can only be adjusted between video sequences. I don’t know why this restriction was made in the design.
The real problems, however, start when you try to do anything with the video clips captured by the camera. Kodak has chosen to capture the videos in QuickTime format. This is fine—QuickTime is, technically, excellent—except that there is no simple way to convert QuickTime MOV files to AVI or MPEG or VCD. The Kodak software comes with a QuickTime player, so you can see the video clips on the computer you installed the software on—and they look good. Problem is that you can’t just dump those MOV files onto your Video-CD creator (it will usually want AVI or MPEG files).
It takes some time to realise that Kodak have not even bothered to include any software with the camera that can convert these MOV files to a more useful format. This is a serious PR blunder, and anyone bitten by this is unlikely to go near the Kodak brand ever again.
After some web searching, owners of these cameras generally find that the best (only?) freeware solution to convert MOV to AVI is Bink and Smacker’s RADtools program.
RADtools is amazingly powerful for the price (i.e. free), but it hits two fundamental problems with Kodak Digital Camera MOV video files, that are the fault of the Kodak camera, not RADtools. (I know this because every other MOV converter hits the same problems—except one, as you will see below.)
The first problem is that the sound cannot be converted properly. When you convert any Kodak MOV files, there is an “aliasing” of the sound at the upper frequencies. This is a technical description—you get a whispery, tinny, C3PO type of echo to everything. It really destroys the quality of the video clips (especially bad when I am trying to capture priceless memories of my 4- and 7-year-old sons—I don’t want their voices destroyed for all time).
Every conversion program I tried ended up with the same audio problem. I concluded that it is something strange in the way the Kodak cameras store the MOV files.
Strangely enough, I noticed that the QuickTime player didn’t distort the audio like this. The audio sounds just fine through QuickTime. More on this shortly.
The second, more serious problem is that RADtools could not properly convert some of the video clips at all. (This problem only affected less than 10% of the clips I originally filmed, but most of those clips were very short—less than 20 seconds. It seems that the probability of this problem gets worse, the longer the clip.) RADtools would misreport the number of frames in the clip, and would stretch out a small number of frames of video (in slow motion) to match the length of the audio.
Again, I confirmed that this is a property of some of the MOV files stored by the camera. Other conversion tools also had problems with the same MOV clips.
After more angst, I found a number of websites in which frustrated owners of these Kodak cameras have reported the exact same problems.
It was only then that I discovered that QuickTime itself can convert MOV files to AVI. Believe it or not, it’s built into the QuickTime Player that Kodak supplies, or that you can download free from apple.com. The problem is that you can’t use it unless you pay Apple to upgrade to QuickTime Pro.
After realising that this would probably be the only way to get decent audio for these clips, I paid the AU$59 to Apple Australia to get the licence key that enables the extra “Pro” menu options in QuickTime.
Sure enough, you can “Export” any MOV file to a number of formats, including AVI. And guess what? The audio comes out fine!
So, the first piece of advice I can give is: pay Apple the US$29 (or whatever amount it is in your country) to upgrade QuickTime to QuickTime Pro.
From here, however, there are still a few snags to untangle.
The first is that the default settings for Exporting to AVI don’t give a great result. It defaults to the Cinepak codec, medium quality. This looks terrible compared to the original QuickTime movie. Even on maximum quality, that codec just doesn’t give good results.
I finally found that the best option is to use the Intel Indeo Video 4.4 codec, set on maximum quality. This creates AVI files that are 10 to 20 times larger than the original MOV files, but the quality is there. If (like me) you only want the AVI files so you can dump them into your Video-CD program, then you want to keep the quality as high as possible in this first step. The extra hard disk space is not really a concern. When your VCD program converts the AVI files to MPEG, it will compress them to the usual VCD size.
Now for the biggest snag: those problem MOV files are still a problem, even for QuickTime Pro. Unbelievably, these Kodak cameras are spitting out MOV files which have some sort of technical flaw in their data specifications. QuickTime is able to play them back fine—and that seems to be all that the Kodak engineers really checked. However, if QuickTime Pro tries to export them, then when the progress bar gets to the end, it never finishes. It just keeps going. If you check the output folder with Explorer, and keep hitting F5 to update the file listing, you can see the file getting bigger, and bigger, and bigger. It never stops.
That this happens even for QuickTime itself (the native format for these files) confirms that the problem is with the software built into these Kodak cameras. It would be nice it they issued a patch or a fix. I couldn’t find one.
Fortunately, there is a “workaround” for this problem. I found it when trolling the net trying to find solutions to all these problems. The workaround is to use QuickTime Pro’s cut and paste facility. Open the problem MOV file, then press Ctrl-A (the standard key combination for “select all”—in this case it selects the entire film clip, as you can see by the grey selection of frames at the bottom of the player). Then hit Ctrl-C (i.e. copy, which in this case copies all the frames, but not the incorrect data structure in the original MOV file). Now hit Ctrl-N (i.e. new, in this case a new MOV file or player). In this new player, press Ctrl-V (i.e. paste). Now you have a new version of the MOV file with the bad data structure exorcised. You can save this under a new name, but make sure you specify “Make movie self-contained”—otherwise, it will simply be a link to the original (bad) MOV file, which you are probably going to delete once you save the exorcised version. (You also cannot overwrite the original file, because it needs to access that to make the “self-contained” movie. You need to give it a slightly different name, save it “self-contained”, then delete the original and rename the new copy back to what you wanted it to be. A pain, I agree, but at least the **** thing works—finally!)
The exorcised MOV file can now be used to Export to AVI format. (I also keep all the MOV files on a separate CD, in case I want to reconvert them to a different format in the future. I figure it’s better keeping the exorcised ones than the haunted ones.)
So I hope that all this answers a few of your questions. No, you weren’t being incredibly stupid.

Max Resolution for a QuickTime Movie?

I have made a QT movie and am trying to get it to play on my Apple TV.
I have set the resolution for 1280x720, but iTunes will not sync this to the Apple TV because it says the file is incompatible with Apple TV. I thought Apple TV supported 720p.
Can anyone please advise on the maximum resolution I can set for the QT to be viewable on my Apple TV?
Thanks in advance.

I have a bunch of 720p30 home videos that I converted to 720p24 and 540p30 to compare.
What did you use for conversion? Did it have a frame "blend" option and if so, did you use it. Many applications (like QT) use a simple drop/add frame algorithm when changing frame rates.

Color and output settings for .mov files?

My GH3 shoots either AVCHD, Mp4, or its own variant of the .mov files, up to 60fps and 'all-intra'. Fine and dandy. The .mov files are the easiest to use as they are always just one file, no 'related' files to copy over etc. I'm trying to figure out how to do my grading in Sg, then render for final output so that I can then take that file and port for various possible uses such as dvd, standard computer use, web use ... typical modern stuff.
I've tried setting the timeline to various settings including gamma 1.8 and essentially "none", tried various setting in the render-output panels, using PhotoJpeg or H.264 as the "base" and then trying either no calibration or various choices there ... and still having troubles finding how to match the Sg monitor to the final output.
Any general or preferably specific ideas? I've searched a number of places, and ... this is something that is just mentioned in walk-throughs everywhere I've looked, if it even gets that much. Neither the Adobe movies nor Lynda-dot-com cover this ... and I've spent a couple days doing nothing but this. So ... ideas?
Neil

Same here, I find it unbelievable this occurs and there doesn't seem te be a solution. Is it something developpers know about but can't solve so ignore all the discussions about it?
It seems so simple to me: whether the monitor is calibrated or not, whatever monitor it is, when I place the exported movie window in Quicktime, and one in VLC, next to the Speedgrade window, all on the same monitor, it all should look the same right?! Ok, so I hear Quicktime does its own calibration while playing.
I'm working on a project now which are product films, the end result is a room where everything is white (not overexposed, all details are in there), the product black and blue, plus a model (brown skin).
I'm including a few screenshots of the same shot in different players. Speedgrade, VLC, Quicktime, MPEG Streamclip. MPEG Streamclip comes closest to the Speedgrade monitor. How can I possibly sell this to my client? This is shown on laptops at presentations, beamers via laptops (probably all Windows), big screens with a built-in mediaplayer etc, and most important: online! on youtube/ vimeo.. Not operated by experts, no control over which player is used.
The films will probably almost always be shown by someone doubleclicking on the file, so it opens in the systems standard movieplayer, Quicktime or Windows Media Player. It just has to look good in this! How do I do this?
When I place the exported clip on top of my Speedgrade timeline, it does change (the whole histogram range shifts brighter).
edit: I now exported with Automatic Color Calibration ON, the results has better contrast/ resembles contrast I see in Speedgrade. Placing this clip on top of my Speedgrade timeline shows almost exactly the same. Export to ProRes4444 AutCC: Histogram expands tiny tiny bit, can't see a change in the monitor it's so small.
Export to ProRes422 AutCC: Histogram expands a bit, you can see a slight change in the monitor (whites bit brighter, black bit darker). But acceptable.
No change in the color differences though! Skin colour varies huge in different viewers, highlights have more green/ more magenta.
speedgrade
quicktime
vlc
mpeg streamclip
These screenshots look exactly the same as how the colors are in the viewer the screenshots comes from, even when I place this browser window next to it on the same (calibrated) monitor.
Thanks for any tips..
Peter
edit 2: The frustration gets worse. Playing the clip (prores 422 with Automatic Color calibration) in Preview (Mac, by hitting spacebar when on the file in Finder) shows EXACTLY what I see in Speedgrade monitor! It feels like the solution is out there somewhere but I can't reach it (cause no one will actually play the video in Preview).
Message was edited by: pvd81

Resolution for .mov files for film festivals

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