RotoScoping help

Hello again. I was up most of the night tryign to understand this. I have a clip of a guy walkign over a sand dune here,
http://s111.photobucket.com/albums/n159/larswik/?action=view&current=sn51_forgro und.jpg
In the background I have dark mountians that I want to remove so I grabed another clip of just dunes from here.
http://s111.photobucket.com/albums/n159/larswik/?action=view&current=51_backgrou nd.jpg
I took the 2 images into Photoshop and did a quick test cutting him and the dune he was walking and replaced the backdrop here,
http://s111.photobucket.com/albums/n159/larswik/?action=view&current=sn51final.j pg
I am having a hard time re-creating it in Shake. The opening shot pans over to see him walking and the shot was handheld. I created a larger backgound plate that looks like this,
http://s111.photobucket.com/albums/n159/larswik/?action=view&current=backdrop.jp g
To track with the pan. I tried to do this in 3 steps. 1. I rotoed out the dune that he is walkign on which cut him in half. I then duplicated the node of him walking and put a tight garbage matte around him tryign to do a luma key since the background is white and blue and he is dark. I would then marry those 2 elements together so I had the dune he was walking on and him. I could then add the backdrop and track that shot usign the brown mountins that I rememved so I could get the same camera movment.
I can do this in AE but I want to keep learning Shake. Any help would be great.
Thanks,
-Lars

Hello again. I was up most of the night tryign to
understand this. I have a clip of a guy walkign over
a sand dune here,... In the background I have dark mountians that I want
to remove so I grabed another clip of just dunes from
here.
RotoMan = a tight roto of the man
RotoMtns = a garbagy roto of the mountains
CP = clean-plate that you want to replace the mountains with
Plate = your plate of the shot with the man and the mountains
- "RotoMtns" OUTSIDE of "RotoMan" = "Outside1"
- Feed "Plate", "CP", "Outside1" into a Layer - KEYMIX node.
Or:
- "RotoMtns" OUTSIDE of "RotoMan" = "Outside1"
- "CP", "Outside1" into a Layer - SWITCHMATTE = "SwitchMatte1"
- "SwitchMatte1" OVER "Plate"
This assumes the CP is already tracked into place of course.
-ed

Similar Messages

Double exposure effect using rotoscope? Please Help!

I would like to create a double exposure effect like this one done in photoshop
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GesHc9y_zVY
I can't quite figure out how to do it, lets say the face is moving slightly, so I would rotoscope a mask around it, however how to I keep the background image within this mask? Can I use the same mask twice?
Thanks for any help

Use the face as an Alpha matte on the other image.
Mylenium

Rotoscoping to add ghost effect? HELP!!!

I am working on a project where I need to create a ghostly effect. I have CS5 and used Rotoscoping to slect the actors and add the effect.
However, sometimes the selection process is amazing! it doesn't need to be to the edge perfect but the rotoscope mask sometimes juts out or wiggles a lot which looks weird.
I was wondering if anyone could make some suggestions for how to fix this? Whether it be settings or tips for using rotoscope? or a whole new selection method.
I really need to get this working and I've attempted to go through frame by frame and fix the rtoscope too many times... thanks!

Your terminology is unclear. "Rotoscoping" covers all techniques and processes used to isolate elements in the footage, not just a single one. per haps you rather mean "Rotobrush"? That would make a lot more sense based on your description and that already takes us to the center of it all: You used it on compressed footage and naturally the automatic edge detection will therefore yield rather crude results due to the blocking and jitter all the way. You can paint for another hundred years and it won't go away. It's just how the tool works. Therefore, manually adding an additional level of cleanup using conventional paint tools or masks animated frame by frame is the only way to resolve the issue. There is no simple answer here. Salvaging a poorly shot scene is just a ton of work. Of course, if you can, simply reshoot using a green screen, otherwise you may wish to cancel all your social activities for the next few days and dig yourself in trying to fix this...
Mylenium

Need help with gunshot effect in FCP

New to FCP and am trying to add a gunshot effect to a short film. Doesn't have to look top notch...just looking for something simple.
I added a muzzle blast for the shooter from detonationfilms.com, which worked great. When i overlayed the muzzle blast, the background was black. I was able to fix this by using Modify>Composite>Screen.
Now I'm trying to add the bullet hitting the victim, but all the shots from detonationfilms.com have white backgrounds. For some reason, when I go to Modify>Composite>Screen it doesn't work for white. What I'm I missing? Are there any other websites that have bullet hits with a black background? As I said, I'm not too picky.
Lastly, I have about a 40 frame shot of the victim collapsing to the ground after being shot. He's wearing a white T-Shirt, which I'd like to stain with blood. Can someone tell me what program would work best for this? I basically think I need to go frame by frame and "paint" the blood on him, but not sure what program is best for this (and simple).
Thanks! Much appreciated.

welcome to the family. We're not really here to help you with practical effects and filmmaking tips, we're here to help you with the software. But we'll see who shows up.
For some reason, when I go to Modify>Composite>Screen it doesn't work for white. What I'm I missing? < </div>
Screen drops out black pixels. It's not really the best way to get luma key effects but it's quick and easy for high contrast effects footage that is delivered on superblack. Try a luma keyer to key out the white.
Lastly, I have about a 40 frame shot of the victim collapsing to the ground after being shot. He's wearing a white T-Shirt, which I'd like to stain with blood. Can someone tell me what program would work best for this? I basically think I need to go frame by frame and "paint" the blood on him, but not sure what program is best for this (and simple). < </div>
Should have been done as a practical effect while shooting. A simple squib and blood packet would have been FAR easier to deal with than rotoscoping and hand painting. You need After Effects or, if you have Motion, crack the manual and get set for some long sessions. There is nothing simple about handpainting on a moving object.
bogiesan

AE "newbie" needs help with effect - (please!)

Hi all:
I'm working on a highlight video of my daughter - she's the goalie for her H.S. Lacrosse team. I recently bought the Creative Cloud subscription. I'm editing the video in Premiere Pro CC on an iMac - OSX 10.7.5.
I'm putting together a short intro/open, and trying to add some effect to my daughter in the clip shown below. She is running/jumping - I want to be able to isolate just her and add some sort of color effect, a glow (or even just make everything else b&w). Obviously, my problem is with masking or roto brushing. I've spent many hours (probably too many!) watching tutorials and reading the help articles -- and I just can't seem to get it right. I saw a video talking about the much anticipated October update - and wondering if the new Mask Tracker will do what I need/want?
Here is the clip - (my daughter is #11 - the only one wearing a helmet)
Thanks in advance for any guidance/help/suggestions you can provide,
Kim

Thanks again for pointing me in the direction of the Motion Tracking and Rotoscoping tutorial.
I successfully (in my opinion, anyway!) was able to apply an effect to the moving object (my daughter ). There are a few places that I could tighten up the mask, but it's not too bad - and I just realized I forgot to feather the mask - so that will help as well.
I tried a bunch of different effects -- but really wasn't happy with any of them. I went ahead and just made her B&W just for illustrative purposes.
What I'd really like to do is make the background B&W and keep her in color.
I tried applying the B&W effect onto the footage layer -- but it seemed to make everything b&w - including my masked/rotoscoped object. I am sure that it is very simple to do -- but haven't been able to find the right instructions.
(I looped the clip a few times - since it is only about 1.5 seconds long)..
So - again - thanks in advance for helping me figure out how to apply the B&W to just the background!
Kim

Light Streak Help for a newbie

What I want: I have video of a guy jumping, I want streaks of light to track with him and explode into particles upon impact
What I did: I used the brush tool, Light Streak style, keyframed the jitter to explode the particles
What I can't figure out:
1) I would like the Light Streaks to be a little more precise in following his body, it's close, but I just can't figure out how to hone in on a few keyframes or what key frames I'm even looking for (ala rotoscoping)
2)I want the streaks to be a bit shorter, so I keyframed the First/Last point offset, but that seemed to make the tail of the streak a bit blunt (and I couldn't adjust width over stroke even further)
Am I going about this the wrong way? Is there a better way to rotoscope streaks of light, flames,or smeared paint?

Sorry to butt in. I happen to find myself on this forum for the first time in years, and this may not be relevant, but no one is stepping up either.
IN the olden days, I would have approached this problem differently, maybe this will help. I'd be building the light streaks as carefully as possible but not worrying about some fo the details quite yet. I'd render them as individual movies with alpha and bring them all back into the project.
Then I'd start manipulating them individually. For instance, if the streaks are too long, you can clip off the ends with masks. You can mask them off so they appear to pass behind forefground objects. You can add more sparkly thingies to the streaks by creating the on another layer that uses the same tracking information you have already created. You can add individual impact explosions as separate layers (these could all be the same pre-rendered movie at different scales, speeds and with tints or colors).
I usually approach complex effects projects by trying to figure out what I know how to do and what I can fake. Applying a large number of unique variables to a long inventory of effects on a single layer is often a lot of trouble and, when you change one little thing, the changes usually ripple through the project in unexpectecd ways. So I break them out into things I know how to do, like masking and applying individual effects to separate layers, and then blending them all together as prerendered movies in a far less complicated project.
Hope you get better suggestions soon.

If you need help quickly... Guideline for posting an effective question.

Whenever you have a question that you would like answered, do pose that question effectively.
First, do not assume that because you have tried many, many times that your question is understood by someone else. What is obvious to you may not be for another. So please state in a very detailed and structured way what steps you have taken to cause your problem, how you can replicate this problem, under what circumstances on what hardware/software.
The fact that you have nearly given up because of your problem does not mean that someone else can readily understand this problem. When you go to your doctor and say: "I have a pain in my stomach" he will ask you a lot of questions. Same applies here. Your doctor may need to know about any medication you have taken, your blood pressure, history, etc. If you want help, be as PRECISE and ACCURATE as possible.
Second, this is a USER TO USER forum. So ranting will not help. What may help is a STRUCTURED approach to describing the problem you have.
Third, do a thorough search of posts here, on other fora and with Google before repeating what has been asked a thousand times and has worn out the patience of regulars here, who have answered your question a dozen times already. Use the FAQ and the Wiki to find answers to questions that have been posed and answered repeatedly. Do not assume you are unique with your problem. Well, you are unique, the problem you have most likely is not.
Fourth, realize that even though it may be highly frustrating to you to not be able to solve YOUR problem, by posting your question here, you are dependent on fellow editors to help you on their free time without compensation, so bear with them to help identify what EXACTLY is your problem. If you lack that decency, you may forfeit their help, so why did you come here?
Fifth, consider your work flow in light of the purpose of Premiere, an editing package. If you have problems with rotoscoping, programming with APL, spreadsheets in general, word processing on a mobile phone, importing Panda bears into a local zoo, feeding nearly distinct whales in the Alps, or anything far removed from the purpose of PP, you may be better off in posting your question elsewhere.
Last:
Everybody has to learn, has the right to ask questions and be helped.
If everybody has the decency to pose their urgent, life threatening or other questions in a detailed, structured and comprehensible way, it will vastly improve the chances of speedy and helpful replies, without the need for sarcasm, bundles of to-and-fro posts without meaningful help, just wasting bandwidth.
I know I have been rightly accused of such behavior, which was the result of sheer frustration with absolutely meaningless and often pointless questions without details, structure and the like. Maybe this can be a general guideline for posters on how to ask questions, in addition to Eddie's links and How to ask questions the smart way
The most frustrating issues one can encounter are hangs, BSOD's (blue screens of death), system errors and other cases of seemingly random erros that require rebooting, restarting or similar actions, only to be confronted with the next hang, BSOD or system crash.
These errors are often difficult to locate, due to the large variety of systems, components and driver or software versions in use. This is often further aggravated by sheer lack of expertise, understanding of what needs to be communicated in order for others to help solve the issue at hand. And that list is very long.
So, in order to make it a bit simpler for the average user who encounters these problems, follow the following steps when posting a problem:
1. Clearly describe the main problem in the topic, but be brief. Not so brief as to only say: "Help!" or "URGENT" or another meaningless statement but get to the point, like: "PP crashes on opening, requiring a reboot" or "Using DL the system hangs upon return to PP". You get the point.
2. Briefly describe your hardware, software, OS and versions in use, including disk setup, video card and driver versions, etc.
3. Describe source material, including codec (not AVI, which is not a codec), project settings and other relevant info.
4. Describe as accurately as possible what you did, what steps you took, what happened at what moment and what you did to try to resolve it.
5. Go to Start/Run, type in DXDIAG, enter and save all information to a TXT file. Include a link to that file in your post.
6. Go to Start/Run, type in MSINFO32 (or similar for 64 bit OS), enter and save the results as a .NFO file. Include a link to that file in your post.
7. Download Process Explorer , and either post a screen shot or a link to the results.
8. Make a screen shot of the results of SpeedFan or HW Monitor and include that in your post.
When you perform these basic steps, you avoid endless questions about your system and people may be able to help you faster.
If you feel up to it, take a look at The Case of the Unexplained to start your own troubleshooting.
Hope this helps to post more meaningful questions and get an answer much quicker.

Whenever you have a question that you would like answered, do pose that question effectively.
First, do not assume that because you have tried many, many times that your question is understood by someone else. What is obvious to you may not be for another. So please state in a very detailed and structured way what steps you have taken to cause your problem, how you can replicate this problem, under what circumstances on what hardware/software.
The fact that you have nearly given up because of your problem does not mean that someone else can readily understand this problem. When you go to your doctor and say: "I have a pain in my stomach" he will ask you a lot of questions. Same applies here. Your doctor may need to know about any medication you have taken, your blood pressure, history, etc. If you want help, be as PRECISE and ACCURATE as possible.
Second, this is a USER TO USER forum. So ranting will not help. What may help is a STRUCTURED approach to describing the problem you have.
Third, do a thorough search of posts here, on other fora and with Google before repeating what has been asked a thousand times and has worn out the patience of regulars here, who have answered your question a dozen times already. Use the FAQ and the Wiki to find answers to questions that have been posed and answered repeatedly. Do not assume you are unique with your problem. Well, you are unique, the problem you have most likely is not.
Fourth, realize that even though it may be highly frustrating to you to not be able to solve YOUR problem, by posting your question here, you are dependent on fellow editors to help you on their free time without compensation, so bear with them to help identify what EXACTLY is your problem. If you lack that decency, you may forfeit their help, so why did you come here?
Fifth, consider your work flow in light of the purpose of Premiere, an editing package. If you have problems with rotoscoping, programming with APL, spreadsheets in general, word processing on a mobile phone, importing Panda bears into a local zoo, feeding nearly distinct whales in the Alps, or anything far removed from the purpose of PP, you may be better off in posting your question elsewhere.
Last:
Everybody has to learn, has the right to ask questions and be helped.
If everybody has the decency to pose their urgent, life threatening or other questions in a detailed, structured and comprehensible way, it will vastly improve the chances of speedy and helpful replies, without the need for sarcasm, bundles of to-and-fro posts without meaningful help, just wasting bandwidth.
I know I have been rightly accused of such behavior, which was the result of sheer frustration with absolutely meaningless and often pointless questions without details, structure and the like. Maybe this can be a general guideline for posters on how to ask questions, in addition to Eddie's links and How to ask questions the smart way
The most frustrating issues one can encounter are hangs, BSOD's (blue screens of death), system errors and other cases of seemingly random erros that require rebooting, restarting or similar actions, only to be confronted with the next hang, BSOD or system crash.
These errors are often difficult to locate, due to the large variety of systems, components and driver or software versions in use. This is often further aggravated by sheer lack of expertise, understanding of what needs to be communicated in order for others to help solve the issue at hand. And that list is very long.
So, in order to make it a bit simpler for the average user who encounters these problems, follow the following steps when posting a problem:
1. Clearly describe the main problem in the topic, but be brief. Not so brief as to only say: "Help!" or "URGENT" or another meaningless statement but get to the point, like: "PP crashes on opening, requiring a reboot" or "Using DL the system hangs upon return to PP". You get the point.
2. Briefly describe your hardware, software, OS and versions in use, including disk setup, video card and driver versions, etc.
3. Describe source material, including codec (not AVI, which is not a codec), project settings and other relevant info.
4. Describe as accurately as possible what you did, what steps you took, what happened at what moment and what you did to try to resolve it.
5. Go to Start/Run, type in DXDIAG, enter and save all information to a TXT file. Include a link to that file in your post.
6. Go to Start/Run, type in MSINFO32 (or similar for 64 bit OS), enter and save the results as a .NFO file. Include a link to that file in your post.
7. Download Process Explorer , and either post a screen shot or a link to the results.
8. Make a screen shot of the results of SpeedFan or HW Monitor and include that in your post.
When you perform these basic steps, you avoid endless questions about your system and people may be able to help you faster.
If you feel up to it, take a look at The Case of the Unexplained to start your own troubleshooting.
Hope this helps to post more meaningful questions and get an answer much quicker.

Transfer rotoscope path to different layer

A novice rotoscoper, I got a little confused from having read and watched tutorials with several diffeent styles of rotoscoping.
Some said to use a layer in between path and actual subject layer with the eyeball turned off. Then lock the actual target layer so as not to move it around inadvertantly.
I may have that confused a bit... if so, it not the tutorials doing but mine.
Cutting to the chase; I have a solid light grey layer with the opacity turned down to 1. above a footage layer of my great grandson doing his first zombie walk.
I spent a lot of time getting a mask to follow his little head in his trek across the floor. Now I wanted to transfer the mask path points over to the target footage layer. I clicked the footage layer with the pen tool to get a mask started, then with focus on the grey layer/Mask/mask path (all the points are lit up so selected) and copy... then to the footage layer Mask/Mask path - paste. So far so good.
But somehow I must have moved either the grey solid layer or the footage layer sometime during all the pulling and hauling.so the mask misses the head in a perfect offset all the way thru. The attached screen shot illustrates it well. The first one shows the mask on the grey layer, the second on the footage layer.
I tried lining up the layers by setting the `position' parameters the same, also by just eyeballing the crosshair thing that shows the center of each layer.
Trouble is I can't find a way to see the crosshair from the one layer as soon as I focus on the other to move it. Ditto for the path itself. Soon as focus changes the path does to. I may be going the opposite way of what I should, but tried it both ways with both layers and am just not getting how to get it right.
I know I can just do it over, and that isn't really a problem since I can clearly use the practice. But I feel like there must be a a clearcut way to match up a layers position to a path.
At this point I've thoroughly confused the heck out of myself and would like to hear someone lay out how to get two layers to match up

Haa, the footage layer is turned on but the solid layer above was
set to 1% opacity.. with the eyeball off. cranking that up 100 fixed
it. Now I can see the babies head, and the rest is masked out as
expected.
You'd
think the opacity setting on the solid layer would not matter if the
layer eyeball is off anyway, but apparently it does. If I scroll the
opacity up and down with the layer eyeball off, the babies head
appears at higher percentages and disappears below 10 or so.
If you think about it, it makes sense.
A track matte set to "alpha" applies the opacity value of each pixel in the layer directly above to current layer. So, if Opacity for that layer is 1 per cent, that affects the opacity value of all pixels. Leaving it at 100 per cent, means that fully opaque pixels are applied as fully opaque, and fully transparent pxiels as fully transparent.
The visibily control (eyeball) for the layer above is turned off aumatically (if it's not already off) as soon as you set a track matte mode. So, the layer is "seen" for the operation regardless of the visibiliy status.
The column is headed with `T' and when you check it, it says `preserve transparency'. I don't quite get what that is for.
That's called "Preserve Underlying Transparency", and it's a very convenient option... but I am surprised by how many people enable it without knowing what it does. It's not the first time someone gets bitten by it
And what it does is... this layer (the one with the switch turned on) only exists in areas that are not transparent, when taking into account the combination of all layers below. Example: if you have three circles placed in different places, and then create a large text layer and enable this switch, text will only exist in places that match the circles underneath.
More info in Preserve underlying transparency during compositing, in After Effects Help on the web.
Another aspect of this: I wanted to rotoscope the whole body... so as to be able to insert it on differnet backgrounds.
I
could use some ideas on that too. I started with just the head to get
an idea of how its done... but I'm guessing it might be easiest done by
taking several masks to enclose various chunks of the babies body. Is
that how its done?
There are many valid approaches, and whatever works for you is fine. But you can be happy to learn that many experienced roto artists suggest doing exactly as you just described
I really recommend Mark Christiansen's book After Effects CS4 Visual Effects and Compositing Studio Techniques. It has a lot of useful information on roto work with AE.

Touch up post rotoscope

I'm wondering if there is some way to further touch up something that has been rotoscoped out of footage.
I mean the subject of rotoscope (the inside of the mask) is what is beingsaved for futher usage. (not to be used on the masked off footage.)
It's the body of a baby doing his first zombie walk. I have several masks in play but I've been rotoscoping the arms without trying to differentiate the fingers. (as in the attached image) In 90 % of the footage just masking off a sort of club like that is going to be fine but in a very few frames. at the end the fingers come into focus so as you can see in the image there will be undesireable stuff captured.
At first I thought just to add more keyframes when that section starts but I see those keyframes will then be in all frames where this mask is in use.
Seem like more trouble than its worth so I wondered if once I've captured the body if I can then touch up those few frames some how. Like with an eraser or something (ala photoshop?.
Or would I have to render the footage with the background gone and then roto the fingers?

Adolfo Rozenfeld wrote:
There could be dozens of approaches. But one thing you can do is create 2 or 3 small masks, set to the "subtract" mode, to erase the holes between the fingers (which is what I understand you want, right?) SInce these masks are needed for a brief time, you could animate the opacity property for these masks (not the layer's) to make them work when you want them and then disappear.
In more general terms, it depends on what's the purpose of the roto job. If it's about replacing the background, yes, you need to deal with all the details. If it's, for example, to do selective color correction (say, making the person black and white) you can do with a more loose approah and use feather.
What a great idea, thanks.
Thats going to help a lot because I've also noticed a few places where limbs and torso create a captured bit of background like an island. So those extra animated masks will fix that too. Very helpful ....thanks again

Rotoscoping in After Effects

Here's a blog post about some resources by Pete O'Connell and Sean Kennedy about
rotoscoping in After Effects.

awsome stuff dude! i need all the help i can get in rotoscopeing..

Multiple errors when opening my project file. Please help!

Hi Everyone,
I'm new to the forum and I hope someone can help me with a problem I'm having with opening a specific .aep.
My project crashed. I tried reopening it, but from then I've been getting the following error messages. While restarting my system or AE usually helps, this time the project wouldn't reopen no matter how I approached this.
Steps I've taken so far:
-Restarting my computer.
-Restarting After Effects
-Importing the .aep file into AfterEffects
-Opening the file on a different computer.
-Trashing preferences and reopening the Project in AfterEffects.
-Opening one of my 5 at a 15 minute interval generated Auto-save files.
All result in the same error.
Please see attached images to see the error I'm getting.
The final message can't be clicked away and when I click the exit button at the top right of the application the application crashes and prompts me with a default windows error screen.
Used source footage:
XDCAM files in a .xmf container
I really hope someone can help me with this problem. Our deadline was yesterday so any help would be much appreciated
Thanks in advance,
Lars
Some information about my system:
After Effects CC (version 12.0) with all recent updates from the cloud as of 21th of august
Windows 7 Professional
Service Pack 1
Dell Precision T3500
Intel(R) Xeon(R) CPU W3550 @ 3.07Ghz 3.07Ghz
8 GB RAM
64-bit operating system
Wacom Intuos 4 large pen tablet
QuickTime 7.7.4

Solved!! I moved the two plug-ins that were giving me an error and tried to reopen the project. This time I could reopen it.
Saving the file under a different name now worked and I could continue working on the project. However the composition containing the rotoscoped footage got lost in the process. I just redid this part and rendered the rotoscoped footage as a separate RGBA quicktime to prevent the same thing from happening.
So happy 50 hours of work were still alive
Hope this helps anyone experiencing the same problem.

Help! Tripod in the shot!

Hey everyone,
I'm kind of in an emergency situation here. I recently cut my short film using adobe premiere; I am premiering it next week and I just realized that the tripod is in one of my shots!!! Normally, I would export the frame and just photoshop it out, but in this scene a character actually climbs out of a froest/wood area and walks in front of the tripod itself (tripod is in the distance in the woods, fairly camoflaged but not nearly enough for my liking). I need to find a quick and effective way to erase the tripod until/while the character walks over it in the shot.
I have the adobe master collection and assume that AE is the best tool for the job; however, I'm not sure how to go about this. I'm concerned I'll have to rotoscope it frame by frame and I don't know if I'l have enough time to do that sort of work by next week!
HELP!
Thanks!

> That sounds exactly what needs to be done ... rotoscoping masking. Are there any good toturials for this? And ... is this best done in AE?
There's some introductory information about rotoscoping and some links to tutorials and such on this page: "Rotoscoping introduction and resources"
Yes, After Effects is well suited for this kind of work.

Help with adobe flash cs3?

I don't know where else to put this topic, so I'm putting it here. I'm using Adobe Flash CS3, and I want to rotoscope a movie I made in FCE. I imported it (numerous times now, each taking about 20 minutes), but I can't figure out how to add it so it is in seperate keyframes so I can actually start rotoscoping. Does anyone know anything about this? Any help is appreciated- I've spent about two hours too many trying to figure it out. I might just be stupid... but...
iMac Mac OS X (10.4.9)

I don't know where else to put this topic, so I'm putting it here. <
You want the Flash forums that are at Adobe.com and creativecow.net and elsewhere.
<div class="jive-quote">I'm using Adobe Flash CS3, and I want to rotoscope a movie I made in FCE. < </div>
But why have you chosen Flash to do the roto? Why not After Effects or even Photoshop?
I imported it (numerous times now, each taking about 20 minutes), but I can't figure out how to add it so it is in seperate keyframes so I can actually start rotoscoping. < </div>
Separate "keyframes?" Do you mean individual FRAMES? You must export out of your editor as an image sequence. Easy. See the online help system or the manuals.
I might just be stupid... but...< </div>
You're not stupid, you just are in a bit over your head. Incomplete research. Roto is a huge niche industry, heavily supported with lots of tutorials but...
Rotoscoping is difficult under the best conditions, you want to find some tutorials from Flash support sites before tackling this.
? < </div>
Please do not bump your own posts. It's rude, especially since this is not a direct Final Cut issue and there is no immediate crisis involved. You just haven't figured out how or where to look for assistance.
I converted it to a quicktime file, though.< </div>
Yes, but you used the wrong export type.
bogiesan

Shake crash When Rotoscoping

Hi all.
I´m rotoscoping a 2k shot and when i move the points of the rotoshape, shake crash.
i try to export the shape,and when i import in other script and i try to contiunui rotoscoping the shake continue to crash.
My current shake version is :
v.4.00.0607
Anyone can help me?

Can't help you but I am also having many crashes too. Just compositing HD (720p) material. When I play through the frames Shake just crash.
Got the intel version. The old version was more stable.

Photoshop CS5 color help.

Hey, I tried figuring this out myself but to no avail. so I am asking anyone here for some advice.
I am trying to make a "lightsaber" effect on some images. In an earlier version of photoshop (earlier than the CS versions i think) it ended up as the blade with its color on a black background. This image was placed on top of my image, the blending mode changed to screen, and it turned out fine. The black disappeared, and the blade kept its vibrant color.
Tutorial I used: http://alienryderflex.com/rotoscope/
Blade image before "screeining" over background image: http://i447.photobucket.com/albums/qq192/CrazedOne1988/lasers.jpg
I've tried this in cs3 and cs5, but something in the program must have changed. When I set the "blades" image to screen, the blade color ends up blending into the background color (altering the blades color) and ends up completely disappearing against a white background. The blade color alters based on what color the image behind it is. I want the blades to keep their vibrant color regardless of what background it is against. Any advice?
Pre-CS: http://i447.photobucket.com/albums/qq192/CrazedOne1988/endoftheworld.jpg
CS3 CS5: http://fc09.deviantart.net/fs37/i/2008/284/8/1/Halo_Star_Wars_by_CrazedOne1988.jpg (blade color in this image was set to Red:0 Green: 127 Blue: 255, a clear cyan blue color, and it's blending into the orange, creating a purplish blue color)

When I set the "blades" image to screen, the blade color ends up blending into the background color (altering the blades color) and ends up completely disappearing against a white background.
Of course they will disappear against a white background.
The Blending Mode Screen can only produce lighter values (you can figure out the math yourself or check out the Help, »Blending mode descriptions«) so on white it will result in white.
Anyway, I guess the intended effect may possibly be approximated with Blend Mode Normal.
In the case of your example a Selection based on Green used to make a Green (0/255/0) Solid Color Layer, a Selection based on either Red or Blue as the basis of a white Solid Color Layer could be used.
On Black the results are identical, on lighter backgrounds the result will differ increasingly, but one can still control the aura via Opacity.

RotoScoping help

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