Securing an ASUS Wireless Router

I have spent some time looking for steps to do this. Even the ASUS website does not provide a manual for this particular model (RT-G32). I am hopeful one of you can assist me with relative newbie-friendly step-by-step guidance. What is the best way to ensure that others in close proximity don't invite themselves to share?

Thanks for responding. I really need a step-by-step to do even that. I will call Apple Care and see what they can do to assist.

Similar Messages

Hi, I need help to secure my linksys wireless router, i tried the setup guide but i didnt work..

hello
I need help securing my linksys wireless router with speed boosters. In august me and some friends took over this rented house, and with the house we got their old internett system, we use a linksys router, This nett is open for everyone, but we want to secure it for other users. We didnt get the manual and i've tried the guide on your site but it says it cant be changed. The old owners didnt either know what to do. Is there some help i can get with this? Is there some buttom i can push to reset it and then make it possible?

Connect your computer using wire to router. Open setup page of router by typing http://192.168.1.1 in browser's address bar, and typing password as "admin" and no user name, if admin doesn't work reset router and do above step again. Go to wireless tab, here change wireless network name from linksys to any other name. Save the settings. Go to wireless security sub-tab here change security mode to WPA personal etc, and enter you secret key in passphrase/shared key, Save the settings.This secret key will be security key of your wireless network.

Mac Security on a wireless router that includes Windows PCs

Just yesterday I took the plunge and purchased my first Mac---a MacBook Pro 2.4GHX with 4G of Ram. I am 62 years old and up until now have been using PCs my whole life (or that part of my life since personal computers became available). I have not as yet set up the MacBook but before I do I have one question (maybe many more in the future). I did not plan on installing any security software on my MacBook because friends and Apple Store employees told me it was not necessary and would only hog resources, etc. Good enough. However, I will be using the MacBook exlusively at home. My family and I have two Windows PCs that are connected to our ISP via a wireless router and I will be setting up the MacBook Web Access through the wireless router as well. My question is, although I am aware there has never been a successful reported Mac exploit in the wild would my MacBook be at risk if a virus or spyware or bot were to infect one of the PC's on our home network? Also, since the router employs a hardware firewall do I need to turn on the Mac firewall when I set up my MacBook. Since I am a brand new user and also not exactly a techie I hope someone can answer these questions. Thanks in advance for any advice or suggestions.

I answered the questions that were asked. "What will be, will be"
If you want to talk about security in relation to malware in general:
While there are no known viruses that attack Mac OS X at the present time, it is possible for spyware to get onto your Mac.
So I go to lenghts to protect my user. A hosed system can be replaced but a compromised user folder is compromised forever. Along with all your important data like bank records, credit cards, ... I.e. your "identity" stolen.
The best way to avoid that is by using your built-in firewall which is industrial strength and/or a hard wired router, downloading only from "trusted" sites, installing all security updates and being careful about what you give administrative power to. It is also recommended to run day to day tasks from a non-admin account.
Don't use Limewire or any other P2P service to download your software, get it from reputable sources. In addition, always keep at least your users backed up, preferably a clone of your entire system on a separate disk. And put your sensitive passwords, bank accounts, credit card numbers in a "secure note" in a new keychain or in an encrypted folder.
If and when a Mac virus does appear it will be headline news and you can download the AV software then. If you feel you have to run an AV program I'd suggest ClamXav a mac friendly freeware app that is very stable with OS X. It will check for known virus signatures at any rate.
Hope this helps.
-mj
Message was edited by: macjack

Unlocking security mode on wireless router

I'm trying to unlock the security mode on the wireless router because I'm having a hard time adding a laptop to my wireless setting. Can anyone help?

well in this case you need to logon to the router's setup page...just let me know the model and version no. of the router that you are using...will tell you step by step troubleshooting steps...

Yoga 10 not detecting ASUS wireless router

Hello,
I had recently purchased a yoga 10 tablet and it worked fine with the wireless router(ASUS RT-N13U).
Suddenly today it doesn't detect the wireless router anymore. It does show other wireless networks in our apartment but not ours.
Any help on this, will a factory reset help?
Thanks,
Jafar

Same problem here on yoga 8, wireless routers with same SSID and password in different locations will suddenly disconnect and appear out of range. Most times I have to forget the ssid, turn off Wlan, reboot the router then switch on wlan and set up the connection again. This is not a minor glitch and does not happen on any of my other android devices, I was hoping the 4.4.2-01-021 build would fix this but no such luck. I really like the yoga 8 design but along with other stupid basic problems I.e.google maps I'm begining to think I've brought a polished turd.

I want a new and more powerful (non-Apple) wireless router but I still want to use my existing Time Capsule to continue with my Time Machine backups and I still need the Time Capsule's Network Attached Storage (NAS) features and capabilities

THE SHORTER STORY
My goal is to successfully use my existing Time Capsule (TC) with a new and more powerful wireless router. I need a new and more powerful wireless router in order to reach a distant Denon a/v receiver that is physically located in a master bedroom some 50 feet away from my modem. I need to provide this Denon a/v receiver with an Internet connection so that it can obtain its firmware updates and I need to connect this Denon a/v receiver to my network in order to use its AirPlay feature. I believe l still need the TC's Network Attached Storage (NAS) features because I am not sure if the new wireless router will provide me with the NAS like features / capabilities I need to share files between my two Apple laptops with OS X 10.8.2. And I know that I absolutely need my TC's seamless integration with Apple's Time Machine (TM) application in order to continue to make effortless backups of my two Apple laptops. To my knowledge nothing works with TM like Apple's TC. I also need the hard disk storage space built into the TC.
I cannot use a long wired Ethernet cable connection in this apartment and I cannot use power-line adapters. I have read that wireless range extenders and repeaters are difficult to successfully set-up and that they will reduce data speeds, especially so when incorrectly set-up. I cannot relocate my modem and/or primary base station wireless router.
In short, I want to use my TC with my new and more powerful wireless router. I need to stop using the TC to connect to the modem. However, I still need the TC for seamless TM backups. I also need to use the TC's built in hard drive for storage. And I may still need the TC's NAS capabilities to share files wirelessly between laptops because I am assuming the new wireless router will not provide NAS capabilities for OS X 10.8.2 (products like this/non-Apple products rarely seem to work with OS X 10.8.2/Macs to provide NAS features and capabilities). Finally, I want to continue to use my Apple laptop and AirPlay to wirelessly access and play my iTunes music collection stored on the TC's hard drive. I also want to continue to use my Apple laptop, AirPlay and Apple TV to wirelessly watch movies and TV shows stored on the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB. Can someone please advise on how to set-up my new Asus wireless router with my existing TC in such a way to accomplish all of this?
What is the best configuration or set-up to accomplish my above goals?
Thank you in advance for your assistance!!!
THE FULL STORY
I live in an apartment building where my existing Time Capsule (TC) is located in my living room and serves many purposes. Specially, my TC is at least all of the following:
(1) Wi-Fi router connected to Comcast Internet service via Motorola SB6121 cable modem - currently the TC is the Wi-Fi base station that connects to the modem and has the gateway address to the Internet. The TC now provides the DHCP service for the Wi-Fi network.
(2) Wireless router providing Internet and Wi-Fi network access to several Wi-Fi clients - two Apple laptop computers, an iPod touch, an iPad and an iPhone all connect wirelessly to the Internet via the TC.
(3) Wired Ethernet router providing Internet and Wi-Fi network access to three different devices - a Panasonic TV, LG Blu-Ray player and an Apple TV each use one of the three LAN ports on the back of the TC to gain access to the Internet.
(4) Primary base station in my attempt to extend my wireless network to a distant (located far away) Denon a/v receiver requiring a wired Ethernet connection - In addition to the TC, which is my primary base station, I am also using a second extended Wi-Fi base station (a Netgear branded product) to wirelessly extend my WiFi network to a Denon receiver located in the master bedroom and requiring a wired Ethernet connection. I cannot use a wired Ethernet connection to continuously travel from the living room to the master bedroom. The distance is too great as I cannot effectively hide the Ethernet cable in this apartment.
(5) Time Machine (TM) backup facilitator - I use my TC to wirelessly back-up two Apple laptops using Apple's Time Machine (TM) application. However, I ran out of storage space on my TC and therefore added external storage to it. Specifically, I added an external hard drive to my TC via the USB port on the back of the TC. I now use this added external hard drive connected to the TC via USB as the destination storage drive for my TM back-ups. I have partitioned the added external hard drive, and each of the several partitions all have enough storage space (e.g., each of the two partitions used by TM are sized at three times the hard drive space of each laptop, etc.). Everything works flawlessly.
(6) Network Attached Storage (NAS) - In addition to using the TC's Network Attached Storage (NAS) capabilities to wirelessly back-up two Apple laptops via TM, I also store other additional files on both (A) the hard drive built into the TC and (B) the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB (there are additional separate partitions on this drive for these other additional and non-TM backup files).
I use the TC's NAS feature with my Apple laptop and AirPlay to wirelessly access and play my iTunes music collection stored on the TC's hard drive. I also use my Apple laptop, AirPlay and Apple TV to wirelessly watch movies and TV shows stored on the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB. Again, everything works wirelessly and flawlessly. (Note: the Apple TV is connected to the network via Ethernet and a LAN port on the back of the TC).
The issue I am having is when I try to listen to music via Apple's AirPlay in the master bedroom. This master bedroom is located at a distance of two rooms away from the TC's current location in the living room, which is a distance of about 50 feet. This apartment has a long rectangular floor plan where each room is connected to the next in a straight line. In order to use AirPlay in the master bedroom I am using a second extended Wi-Fi base station (a Netgear branded product) to wirelessly extend my WiFi network to a Denon receiver located in the master bedroom and requiring a wired Ethernet connection. This additional base station connects wirelessly to the WiFi network provided by my TC and then gives my Denon receiver the wired Ethernet connection it needs to use AirPlay. I have tried moving my iTunes music directly onto my laptop's hard drive, and then I used AirPlay on this same laptop to connect to the Denon receiver. I always get a successful connection and the song plays, but the problem is that the connection inevitably drops.
I live in an apartment building and all of the many wireless routers in this building create a great deal of WiFi interference on both the 2.4 GHz and 5GHz bands. I have tried connecting the Netgear product to each the 2.4 and 5 GHz bands, but neither band can successfully maintain a wireless connection between the TC and the Netgear product. I also attempted to maintain a wireless connection to an iPod touch using the 2.4 GHz band and AirPlay on this iPod touch to play music on the Denon receiver. Again, I was able to establish a connection and successfully play music, but after a few minutes the connection dropped and the music stopped playing. I therefore have concluded that I have a poor wireless connection in the master bedroom. I can establish a connection, but it is intermittent with frequent drops. I have verified this with both laptops by working in the master bedroom for an entire day on both laptops. The Internet connection in this master bedroom proved to drop out frequently - about once an hour with the laptops. The wireless connection and the frequency of its dropout are far worse with the iPod touch and an iPhone.
I cannot relocate the TC. Also, this is an apartment and I therefore cannot extend the range of my network with Ethernet cable (I cannot drill through walls/ceilings, etc.). It is an old building with antiquated wiring and power-line adapters are not likely to function properly, nor can I spare the direct power outlet required with a power-line adapter. I simply need every outlet I can get and cannot afford to block any direct outlet.
My solution is to use a more powerful wireless router. I found the ASUS RT-AC66U Dual-Band Wireless-AC1750 Gigabit Router which will likely provide a better connection to my wireless Internet in the master bedroom than the TC. The 802.11ac band of this Asus wireless router is totally useless to me, but based on what I have read I believe this router will provide a stronger connection at greater distances then my TC. And I will be ready for 802.11ac when it becomes more widely available.
However, I still need to maintain the TC's ability to work seamlessly with TM to backup my two laptops. Also, I doubt the new Asus router will provide OS X 10.8.2 with NAS like features and capabilities. Therefore, I still would like to use the TC's NAS capabilities to share files on my network wirelessly assuming the Asus wireless router fails to provide this feature. I need a new and more powerful wireless router, but I need to maintain the TC's NAS features and seamless integration with TM. Finally, I want to continue to use my Apple laptop and AirPlay to wirelessly access and play my iTunes music collection stored on the TC's hard drive. I also want to continue to use my Apple laptop, AirPlay and Apple TV to wirelessly watch movies and TV shows stored on the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB. Can someone advise on how to set-up my existing TC with this new Asus wireless router in such a way to accomplish all of this?
Modem
Motorola SB6121 SURFboard DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem
Existing Wireless Router and Primary Wi-Fi Base Station - Apple Time Capsule
Apple Time Capsule MC343LL/A 1TB Sim DualBand (purchased June 2010, likely the Winter 2009 Model)
Desired New Wireless Router and Primary Wi-Fi Base Station - Non-Apple Asus
ASUS RT-AC66U Dual-Band Wireless-AC1750 Gigabit Router
Extended Wi-Fi Base Station - Provides an Ethernet Connection to a Denon A/V Receiver Two Rooms Away from the Modem
Netgear Universal Dual Band Wireless Internet Adapter for TV & Blu-Ray (WNCE3001)
Addition External Hard Drive Attached to the Existing Apple Time Capsule via USB
WD My Book Studio 4TB Mac External Hard Drive Storage USB 3.0
Existing Laptops on the Wireless Network Requiring Time Machine Backups
MacBook Air (11-inch, Mid 2012) OS X 10.8.2
MacBook Pro (13-inch Mid 2010) OS X 10.8.2
Other Existing Apple Products (Clients) on the Wireless Network
iPod Touch (second generation) is model A1288.
iPad (1st generation)
Apple TV (3rd generation) - Quantity two (2)

Thanks Bob Timmons.
In regards to a Plan B, I hear ya brother. I am already on what feels like Plan Z. Getting WiFi to a far off room in an apartment building crowded with WiFi routers is a major pain.
I am basing my thoughts on the potential of a new and more powerful router reaching the far off master bedroom based on positive reviews on cnet.com, pcmag.com and pcworld.com. All 3 of these web sites have reviewed the Asus RT-AC66U 802.11AC wireless router as well as its virtual twin cousin 802.11n router. What impressed me is that all 3 sites rated this router #1 overall in terms of both range and speed (in both the 802.11n and 802.11AC flavors). They tested the router in real world scenarios where the router needed to compete with a lot of other wireless routers. One of the sites even buried this Asus router in a media room with thick walls and inside a media cabinet. This Asus router should be able to serve my 2.4 GHz band wireless clients (iPod Touch and iPhone 4) with a 2.4GHz Wireless-N band offering some 50 feet of dependable range and a 60 Mbps throughput at that range. I am hoping that works, but it's borderline for my master bedroom. My 5 GHz wireless clients (laptops) will enjoy a 5GHz Wireless-N band offering 150 feet of range and a 200 Mbps throughput at that range. I have no idea what most of that stuff means, but I did also read that Asus could reach 300 feet and I got really excited. My mileage may vary of course and I'm sure I'm making some mistakes in my interpretation of their data. However, my Winter 2009 Time Capsule was rated by cnet.com to deliver real world performance of less than that, and 802.11AC may or may not be useful to me someday. But when this Asus arrives and provides anything other than an excellent and consistent wireless signal without drops in the master bedroom it's going right back!
Your solution sounds great, but I have some questions. I'm using OS X 10.8.2 and Airport Utility (version 6.1 610.31) and on its third tab labeled "Wireless" the top option enables you to set "Network Mode" to either:
Create a wireless network
Extend a wireless network
Off
Given your advice to "Turn off the wireless on the TC," should I set Network Mode to Off? Sorry, I'm clueless in regards to how to turn off the wireless on the TC any other way. Can you provide specific steps on how to turn off the wireless on the TC? If what I wrote is correct then what should the rest of this Wireless tab look like, or perhaps it is irrelevant when wireless is off?
Next, what do you mean by "Configure the TC in Bridge Mode?" Under Airports Utility's fourth tab labeled "Network" the top option "Router Mode" allows for either:
DHCP and Nat
DHCP Only
Off (Bridge Mode)
Is your advice to Configure the TC in Bridge Mode as simple as setting Router Mode to Off (Bridge Mode)? If yes, then what should the rest of this "Network" tab look like? Anything else involved in configuring the TC in Bridge Mode or is it really as simple as setting the Router Mode to "Off (Bridge Mode)"?
How about the other tabs in Airport Utility, can they all stay as is assuming I use the same network name and password for the new Asus wireless router? Or do I need to make any other changes to the TC via Airport Utility?
Finally, in regards to your Plan B suggestion. I agree. But do you have a Plan B for me? I would greatly appreciate any alternative you could provide. Specifically, if you needed a TC's Internet connection to reach a far off corner of your home how would you do it? In the master bedroom I need both a wired Ethernet connection for the Denon a/v receiver and wireless Internet connection for the iPhone and iPod Touch.
Power-Line Adapters - High Cost, Blocks at Least One Wall Outlet and Does Not Solve the Wireless Need
I actually like exactly one power-line adapter, which is the D-Link DHP-540 PowerLine AV 500 4-Port Gigabit Switch. This D-Link power-line adapter plugs into your wall outlet with a normal sized plug (regular standard power cord much like any other electronic device) instead of all of the other recommended power-line adapters that not only use at least one wall outlet but also often block the second outlet. You cannot use a power strip with a power-line adapter which is very impractical for me. And everything about my home is strange and upside down. The wiring here is a disaster and I don't have faith in its ability to carry Internet access from the living room to the master bedroom. And this D-Link power-line adapter costs $90 each and I need at least two to make the connection to the Denon A/V receiver. So, $180 on this solution and I still don't have a dependable drop free wireless connection in the master bedroom. The Denon might get its Ethernet Internet connection from the power-line adapter, but if I want to use an iPhone 4 or iPod Touch to stream AirPlay music to the Denon wirelessly (Pandora/iTunes, etc.) from the master bedroom the wireless connection will not be stable in there and I've already spent $190 on just the two power-line adapters needed.
Extenders / Repeaters / Wirelessly Extending the Wireless Network
I have also read great things about the Amped Wireless High Power Wireless-N 600mW Gigabit Dual Band Range Extender (Repeater) SR20000G and the My Net Wi-Fi Range Extender. The former is very powerful and the latter is easier to install. Both cost about $150 ish so similar to a new Asus router. However, everything I read about Range Extenders points to them not being very effective for a far off corner of your house wherein it's apparently hard to place the range extender in the sweet spot where it both gets a strong enough signal to actually effectively extend the wireless signal and otherwise does not reduce network throughput speeds to unacceptable speeds.
Creating a Roaming Network By Hard Wiring with Ethernet Cable - Wife Would Say, "**** No!"
Even Apple seems to warn against wirelessly extending your network (see: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4145#) and otherwise strongly recommends a roaming network where Ethernet cable is used to connect two wireless base stations. However, I am in an apartment where stringing together two wireless base stations with Ethernet cable would have an extremely low wife acceptance factor (WAF). I cannot (both contractually and from a skill prospective) hide Ethernet wire in the walls or ceiling. And having visible Ethernet cable running from room-to-room would be unacceptable, especially to the wife.
So what is left? Do you have a Plan B for me? Thanks in advance for your help!

Wireless router connection probs..

Currently using imac intel core duo, 2 gigs ram, 250 gig hard drive.
My PC has the main internet connection upstairs, it has a wireless router that provides the downstairs computers with connection.
The network set up , upstairs, is called ''home''. From my imac in the basement, 2 floors below, i cant seem to sustain a good enough signal. We set up no wireless security and no password requirement to access our wireless network, but all of a sudden, a password is required. I heard it was easy for someone to get onto a wirelss non secure network and throw a password on and claim it for your own? I belive u need to reset your wireless router than go to the original creators website and create security? Until that has been done, my signal status has been set to default, and so is the computer directly beside mine(right beside) . This computer is set to default becuase the upstairs one has password, but it is sustaining a great signal on default, yet mine can never reach past 2/5 bars. Sometimes its back and forth from 4 bars to 2 bars, but there is never a sustained , good signal.
Is there something i can do to enhance the signal im getting? Something i can buy? (incoming signal enhancer?) First thing i thaught is, well your ofcourse not going to get a steady signal when its on default, but howcome the computer beside mine is? Is it a firewall thing?
Anyways, if you know anything about setting up security on a wireless router or anything to enhance my incoming signal, or anything to help me, i would greaty appreciate it.
-As im sure you can tell, im not a massive techy, im a noob to this stuff, please be gentle.
Thanks, Cole
Message was edited by: heggie88

{quote:title=heggie88 wrote:}im a noob to this stuff{quote}
ok, we will be gentlle...
First - Airport pull-down menu - Turn-on Interference Robustness
see if that helps...
what type of wireless router?
Is the firmware up-to-date?
Can you see the settings using the router address:
192.168.2.1
Can you restore previous settings?
Airport extender:
what I use:
well worth it...
http://www.netgear.com/Products/WirelessAccessPoints/WirelessAccessPoints/WPN802 .aspx
Thanks,
den
.

Conflict between ISP IP and wireless router

Hope I'm in the right place to ask this question.
I'm attempting to replace my current hardwired LAN router with an Asus wireless router. The problem is when the wireless router is enabled and connected, it assigns a dynamic IP address to the computer being used to access the Internet through my Verizon account. (UML290 wireless modem). Using the existing LAN all machines on the network have static IP addresses that work without a problem with respect to the UML290. But when the wireless router is enabled I can't connect to my POP3 mail or SMTP mail servers. Logon is denied by my mail service.
Is it possible to configure my home wireless router in such a way to avoid this conflict?
Each of the network computers are using USB PC adapters to access the wireless router.
Thanks in advance for any advice.

This is reference to a UML290 wireless modem, air card or whatever/however it's called. My 4G Internet service is over a wireless connection. I'm assuming Verizon assigns a dynamic IP at log on. It doesn't seem to matter if I log on to Verizon then enable my wireless router at which time it also assigns an IP address, or log on to my Verizon account while the wireless router is enabled. Either way my mail service will not recognize my computer.
Thanks for the reply.

Using AX as wireless router, how to set up w/ security and airtunes on XP

I previously had a Linksys wireless router. I just purchased an Airport express to use as the wireless router (and remove the Linksys router) as well as use the Airtunes functionality.
After some trial and error, I have been able to wireless connect my computer to the AX on it's own (the linksys router is now unplugged and out of the equation). I can connect to the internet fine on my PC (XP Pro SP2).
Trouble is, when I use the Network Setup Assistant, it shows the apple network listed, but it can't connect to it, no matter how many times I try, reboot my machine or reboot the AX. I've tried both the "setting up a new network" and "editing an existing network" option, and in each selection, after a few minutes of trying to connect to the network, I just get a failure message.
If I try and use the Admin utility, nothing shows up in the left-hand list window, and when I Press re-scan, still nothing shows (it doesn't even appear to scan).
I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. I can't find simple instructions on how to set up the AX as the only wireless router for a PC and set up security and Airtunes (I'm assuming enabling airtunes is done in these applications, as I haven't seen anything about that yet either).
Any ideas on how this is done with a PC? Much thanks!
Dell 4500 series

I have found the 'DHCP Reservations' option on the AirPort Extreme to be buggy. I seem to remember it causing IP conflicts for some reason. I think what I remember is that if the computer with the reservation was off, and the DHCP server then handed out that IP to another DHCP client, then there would be a conflict when the reserved IP computer was turned back on. Maybe it was an issue in ealier versions of the AE or OS X as the case may be, and maybe it's been corrected, but I've never bothered using it agian since the method I describe below has always worked without fail. Also, I'm guessing DHCP Reservations would work fine if one manually enters IPs outside of the DHCP range but in the AE 'DHCP Reservation Setup Assistant' the IP options provided are within the DHCP range which to me makes no sense and increases the potential for IP conflicts.
Here's what I do to setup a mixed environment of static and dynamic IPs on my network. It works like a charm and does not require the DHCP server (beyond the distribution of dynamic IPs to hosts using DHCP).
For machines on my network that are accepting services from the public network, I set them up with static IPs using the 'Manually' option (System Preferences/Network/Ethernet/Configure IPv4). The settings for 'Router' IP address and 'DNS Server' IP address should both be set with your gateway/router LAN IP). Use an IP address below or above the DHCP range of adresses (in AE/Internet/DHCP/DHCP Beginning & Ending Address).
i.e. if my subnet is 10.0.1.1 and my DHCP range is 10.0.1.100 to 10.0.1.150, you could set the static IPs on your local hosts as 10.0.1.x where x = any number from 2 - 99 or from 151 - 200 as an example.
All other machines and devices that do not require static routing are setup as DHCP clients and get a dynamic IP from the AE. To me it's a simpler setup though it might take a little extra time to setup initially.
John

Can't print from MacOS 10.4.9 to wireless router ASUS 500Deluxe.

How to set up printer HP LaserJet 1020 in MacOS 10.4.9, wich connected to wireless router ASUS 500Deluxe.
Then I tring to print, it writing SENDING CONTROL FILE, when SPOOLING LPR JOB, and NO JOB PRINTING.
http://www.volny.cz/kolia/sanagroup/1/picture1.jpg
http://www.volny.cz/kolia/sanagroup/1/picture2.jpg
http://www.volny.cz/kolia/sanagroup/1/picture3.jpg
http://www.volny.cz/kolia/sanagroup/1/picture4.jpg

The driver provided by HP is a Carbon driver. It was written to only support USB (directly to computer).
The open source CUPS driver requires compiling for OS X:
http://www.linuxprinting.org/showprinter.cgi?recnum=HP-LaserJet1020
http://foo2zjs.rkkda.com/
You will also need foomatic-rip and ESP ghostscript from:
http://www.linux-foundation.org/en/OpenPrinting/MacOSX/foomatic

Setting up security and such for wireless router wrt54g without admin rights (work computer)

We are moving, I am in a new location with a new company and my only computer is this one from work. Trying to get my home network setup, I'm locked out of admin rights on this thing and am trying to set up the above router. I thought I had a modem problem at first, but finally I am online wired for now to the cable modem. I would like to get this router up and running, but I can't use the easy setup disk, and I just tried using the easy setup download and it is locked out as well. How can I get my router setup with security, with no admin rights on the pc?
This will be my first wireless router, so I am very green on the specifics and terminology. Any help is most appreciated.
Many thanks,

Thank you toomanydonuts!
I will do this when I get back to the townhouse this evening.
Just so that I am prepared for tonight - I want to confirm and ask a few questions on the "options" and note a couple things I noticed that may help with answers...
Internet connection type - should be easy, I assume there is a "cable modem" option.
SSID - I do not know what this means or what to choose
wireless encryption method (WEP, WPA, WPA2) - Which is best, or is there one I must pick due to computer used and such, I also want to get my Nintendo Wii accessing correctly, I saw these options on that setup, though it didn't work per my first message on the board. I assume whatever encryption method used needs to be chosen for the Wii?
wireless encryption password - I think I can handle this one
A couple of notes -
this laptop has this always on radar looking for wireless connections - how can I name my router so I know it's mine, other than the fact that it is the strongest signal. Maybe that's a network setting?
Thanks again, glad I came here.
Edit: I suppose I should add, just to ensure - in order to do this process through the url provided above, I need to be ethernet wired through the router to the modem? in order to access last night, I was straight into the modem, didn't seem to work wired through the router.
Message Edited by Syxpack on 03-27-2008 05:25 AM

Any Security Settings on Wireless WRT150N Router?

Is there any way i can set up a password or any security settings on my router if so please tell me how. And i read over the FAQs, sorry if i missed it but i didn't see this question there.

Yes, your router has a full standard set of security features.
Here are my tips for how to set up your security:
To set up wireless security, you must use a computer that is wired to the router.
Where to find the router settings: The router's login password is usually on one of the "Administration" pages. The other settings are all found in the "Wireless" or "Security" section of the router's setup pages, located at 192.168.1.1
First, give your router a unique SSID. Don't use "linksys".
Make sure "SSID Broadcast" is set to "enabled".
Next, leave the router at its default settings (except for the unique SSID), and then use your pc to connect wirelessly to the router. Test your wireless Internet connection and make sure it is working correctly. You must have a properly working wireless connection before setting up wireless security.
To implement wireless security, you need to do one step at a time, then verify that you can still connect your wireless computer to the router.
Next, encrypt your wireless system using the highest level of encryption that all of your wireless devices will support. Common encryption methods are:
WEP - poor (see note below)
WPA (sometimes called PSK, or WPA with TKIP) - good
WPA2 (sometimes called PSK2, or WPA with AES) - best
WPA and WPA2 sometimes come in versions of "personal" and "enterprise". Most home users should use "personal". Also, if you have a choice between AES and TKIP, and your wireless equipment is capable of both, choose AES. With any encryption method, you will need to supply a key (sometimes called a "password" ).
The wireless devices (computers, printers, etc.) that you have will need to be set up with the SSID, encryption method, and key that matches what you entered in the router.
Retest your system and verify that your wireless Internet connection is still working correctly.
And don't forget to give your router a new login password.
Picking Passwords (keys): You should never use a dictionary word as a password. If you use a dictionary word as a password, even WPA2 can be cracked in a few minutes. When you pick your login password and encryption key (or password or passphrase) you should use a random combination of capital letters, small letters, and numbers, but no spaces. A login password, should be 12 characters or more. WPA and WPA2 passwords should be at least 24 characters. Note: Your key, password, or passphrase must not have any spaces in it.
Most home users should have their routers set so that "remote management" of the router is disabled. If you must have this option enabled, then your login password must be increased to a minumum of 24 random characters.
One additional issue is that Windows XP requires a patch to run WPA2. Go to Microsoft Knowledge base, article ID=917021 and it will direct you to the patch.
Sadly, the patch is not part of the automatic Windows XP updates, so lots of people are missing the patch.
Note:
WEP is no longer recommended. The FBI has demonstrated that WEP can be cracked in just a few minutes using software tools that are readily available over the Internet. Even a long random character password will not protect you with WEP. You should be using WPA or preferably WPA2 encryption.

Best Wireless Security Settings-WRT54G Linksys Router

I've been running into problems attempting to set the wireless security settings for my router and then trying to connect to the internet from my iBook. As long as I enable SSID broadcasting I can find my router but the problem starts when I enable the security settings. The iBook will then ask for the password and nothing I've inserted works??? I'm at a loss. I've given up, those sorts of brickwalls can do a number on your head--major headache this weekend..so I will try again tomorrow. I thought the passphrase is your password--the only thing that I haven't tried (after searching the forums here) is putting the $ in front. Does anyone have this particular router that can give me some suggestions (in basic, simple terms please) that can help me get started on a good security setup so that I won't be scared someone in the neighborhood (as I've read previously) is scanning and can log onto my internet connection. Thanks!
iBook G4 Mac OS X (10.4.5)

Why in heaven would you want WEP to secure your network when you can have WPA which is more secure and doesn't have this kind of problems???
With the right tools (available free on the net) you can crack almost any WEP protected network in less than a day (I have done this with my friends to prove them how weak WEP is).
So imagine you set your WEP protected network, a neighbor crack it and use it, all of this while you CAN'T use your own network.
You should try WPA, good luck...
BTW: I have the same router, with WPA and SSID broadcast disabled.
Message was edited by: CD5VS

Secured wireless router

G'day. My IT administrator set up my home secured, password enabled wireless network. I have a new notebook, and net IT administrator, and have no idea what the password is. How can I reset this to access my router again?
Thanking you in advance for you assistance.
Kind regards, Nancy.

Locate the reset button. Press and hold for 30 seconds. Wait about a minute for the router to cycle back up.

Secure wireless router with lost password

I'm trying to secure our wireless router and not having any success. When I go to the 192.168.1.1 site and type in admin, the screen just pops up again. If I continue, after three tries I get a 404 screen. I'm guessing my husband added a password at some time, but he has no record of it and I've tried all of our passwords that I can think of and none of them work. Is there a way to get past this screen or recover the password somehow? Our network still shows up as unlocked and I'd like to get access to the account and get it locked. Thanks.

Welcome to Cisco Home Community,
What is the model number of your Linksys router? In this case, you may need to perform a reset on the router and you will lose all settings saved in it. You'll start from scratch of setting it up again for the internet both wired and wireless to work. Here are the links below that you may help you to get this issue resolve.
Resetting the Linksys router to factory default
Setting Up a Router with Cable Internet Service
Setting up a Linksys router for DSL Internet connection

Securing an ASUS Wireless Router

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