"Sharpening" an image

Given an image I have to write a method that will "Sharpen" it. By sharpen, follow the formula newColorValue = (oldColorValue - min) * maxPossiblePixelValue / (max - min) where max and min are the maximum and minimum color values in the surrounding neighborhood. I wrote code that I think SHOULD work but it does random things. The first time I run it it doesn't do anything, and then when I try to sharpen again, I get values that are out of the color range which doesn't seem to make sense. There's a GUI already written and when you click "sharpen" this code executes.
public void execute (Pixmap target)
         ourDialog.show();
        Dimension neighborhood = ourDialog.getSize();
        Dimension bounds = target.getSize();
        int maxRed=0,maxGreen=0,maxBlue=0;
        int minRed=255,minGreen=255,minBlue=255;
        int newRed=0,newGreen=0,newBlue=0;
        for(int x = neighborhood.width/2; x < bounds.width-neighborhood.width/2 ; x++)
             for(int y = neighborhood.height/2; y < bounds.height-neighborhood.height/2; y++)
                  for(int xneighs = x-neighborhood.width/2; xneighs <= x+neighborhood.width/2 ; xneighs ++)
                       for(int yneighs = y-neighborhood.height/2; yneighs <= y+neighborhood.height/2 ; yneighs ++)
                            if(!(x==xneighs && y==yneighs))
                                 maxRed=Math.max(target.getColor(xneighs,yneighs).getRed(), maxRed);
                                 maxGreen=Math.max(target.getColor(xneighs,yneighs).getGreen(), maxGreen);     
                                 maxBlue=Math.max(target.getColor(xneighs,yneighs).getBlue(), maxBlue);     
                                 minRed=Math.min(target.getColor(xneighs,yneighs).getRed(),minRed);
                                 minGreen=Math.min(target.getColor(xneighs,yneighs).getGreen(),minGreen);
                                 minBlue=Math.min(target.getColor(xneighs,yneighs).getBlue(),minBlue);     
             if(!(maxRed==minRed || maxBlue==minBlue || maxGreen==minGreen))
                  newRed = (target.getColor(x,y).getRed()-minRed)*255/(maxRed-minRed);
                  newGreen = (target.getColor(x,y).getGreen()-minGreen)*255/(maxGreen-minGreen);
                 newBlue = (target.getColor(x,y).getBlue()-minBlue)*255/(maxBlue-minBlue);
             else
                  newRed = target.getColor(x,y).getRed()/2;
                  newGreen = target.getColor(x,y).getGreen()/2;
                  newBlue = target.getColor(x,y).getBlue()/2;
               target.setColor(x,y,new Color(newRed,newGreen,newBlue));
        }

The first time I run it it doesn't do anything, and then when I try to sharpen again, I get values that are out of the color
range which doesn't seem to make sense.That can't be true. If you get runtime errors the second time, then the first time did do something: it changed the state of some object (target?) so that out of range values occured when execute() was invoked again. I point this out in case you are confusing "doesn't do anything" with "doesn't change the image on the screen".
I would start by making sure that the rest of the GUI stuff is working correctly. That is add a System.out.println() to ensure that execute() is being executed, and then make sure that any change it makes to target's pixels is being reflected within the GUI. (For instance you could have execute() change all of the pixels to green.)
Then if pixel values are becoming out of range (<0, >255?) insert code to see at exactly what place that is occuring. Check the values of newXXX after they have been calculated and if they are out of range print the values of target pixel, minXXX and maxXXX on which they are based. (I'd be suspicious of the if block near the end.)
I am not sure I understand the if/else blocks at the end. You seem to be checking minXXX==maxXXX for all of the colours similtaneously. For instance if the blue values of all the neighbouring pixels are zero (or 255), you are halving the red and green pixel values are well. Is this what you mean to do?
[Edit] Further to that if block at the end. Consider a neighbourbood semi-width of 1, and a group of adjacent pixels whose red values look like this:1    1    1
1    255  1
1    1    2getRed=255, minRed=1 and maxRed=2 (I think I'm right in thinking that getRed doesn't participate in the min/max calculation). So maxRed==minRed is false and the if block is entered.
newRed = (255-1)*255/(2-1) > 255
So you have a problem.

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    • (in FCP) flicker filter - minimum
    • (in Photoshop) motion blur>vertical> .2 - .5 pixels - blurs vertically only
    • (In FCP or Photoshop) Gaussian blur> .2 - .5 pixels -blurs both horizontally as well as vertically
    • (in FCP or Photoshop) deinterlace - throws away half the image and is generally not appropriate on scanned images
    One tip when using blurs - if the problem does not involve the whole image, try using a mask to limit the effect to just the necessary area. This will keep you from softening the whole image.
    Remember: Unless you are viewing your work in the appropriate external NTSC/PAL monitor, you are playing blind. The computer monitor only shows you a proxy image.
    One final thought, if you have only used FCP to slow (retime) your video significantly, you may be simply duplicating frames to create the additional material to pad the playback. The flashing (strobe like effect) you see is the result of this. In that case, try using Motion or Shake's optical flow retiming to process the image. It will produce better quality product.
    good luck.
    x

  • Sharpen only images, which are not sharpende jet...

    Hi,
    i have an Import of 2000 pictures. Some of them are already sharpened indiviually. For all the others (about 1900) I would like to use the same sharpening-level and apply it without selecting the images individually.
    Is it possible to filter the images depending on the fact if they are sharpened already?
    Thank you for your help!

    If the images are Raw images and have been sharpened in a different program than Lr they will be un-sharpened in Lr. Lr does not recognize / honor edits of other Raw-editing programs.
    If they have been sharpened in Lr they should not be imported again. Import is only for images that have never been imported in Lr. But you could transfer the sharpening settings done in Lr for a specific image to a multitude of other images. All images have to be either in the same folder or in the same collection. You have to select them all (i.e. the image that has the sharpening and the images that are to receive the same sharpening). Make sure that the first image (that has sharpening done already) is active and then - in the Develop Module - press on <Sync>. A dialog appears where you can select which settings you want to transfer.
    If they are JPGs and the sharpening has been written into the pixels Lr will import them as per image file. Lr cannot recognize which JPGs have been sharpened and which ones not.
    And there is no way of transferring the sharpening from one image to the others.
    Transferring settings from one image to another (or a multitude of others) is possible in Lr when the first image has been edited (sharpened) in Lr. The sharpening settings are saved in the Lr database (= catalog) and these settings can be transferred to other images. But without any edits (sharpening) in Lr for the first image there are no settings that Lr could transfer.

  • Why Can't I save after I sharpen an image?

    I am able to save the changes to the photo if I enhance or do an effect but it won't save a sharpened image?

    Check out this apple link
    http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=301425
    I recently noticed this same problem. In the past, I don't recall losing the effect at the end of the saving process. I followed the steps in the apple article and the effect is "sticking" even though it does not appear to be when viewing at less than 100%.
    Another member posted this same info in a similar thread - then I found the apple article. Good luck.

  • Over sharpening on image export.

    I’m using Aperture shooting RAW with a 5D. When I export images (jpeg) they appear to be sharpened far too much. I’m experiencing jagged edges and an artificial look to the exports.
    Is there a way to control the sharpening and other setting when doing an export to JPEG?
    Ken

    Hello, Ken
    Quote: "Is there a way to control the sharpening and other setting when doing an export to JPEG?"
    The export settings are located in Aperture>Presets>Image Export choose the preset you want in JPEG.
    How are you editing the RAW files? How are you exporting the RAW image?
    Using the defaults I have been exporting RAWs to JPEG and the edges are sharp and not over focused.
    love & peace,
    victor

  • Newbie to LR3 - Local sharpen after image resize ?

    Maybe someone can point me to help. I just post to web on Flickr, no printing yet.
    I started photo editing with PSE5 & have moved to PSE8 since. A Mark Galer book about PSE started me on a path of .raw editing & i've been using his scheme since. I hoped i was moving to a smoother overall process with LR3, but now that i've gotten it i have a lot more doubts. I can see improves through the develop phase (sort of a curves, grad filter, noise removal, lens correction). After that, i feel only lacks (with my current low knowledge level).
    The things i want included past develop are these: image resize, local sharpening (and blurring - after image resize) smooth border capability (with choice of color). One way of course is to export to PSE8. I expected more from LR3, though - rather than just 2/3 of a job for 3 * the price.

    Pete Marshall pointed out one of the quickest resources for information on using Lightroom's tools, but that's not a tutorial! LR is best learned using one or more of the on-line tutorials or LR books available......and then using it! Lightroom's non-destructive workflow has been tailored to fit the specific needs of the "digital photographer" for processing Camera RAW image files. Photoshop has a vast arsenal of both destructive and non-destructive tools for general image processing, but with no specific focus on usage.
    Everything you stated in your last sentence can be done very easily in LR, but using an entirely different workflow organization than Photoshop.
    The things i want included past develop are these: image resize, local sharpening (and blurring - after image resize) smooth border capability (with choice of color). One way of course is to export to PSE8. I expected more from LR3, though - rather than just 2/3 of a job for 3 * the price.
    1) image resize, local sharpening (and blurring - after image resize) - This can be done using the LR Export function and adjusting 'Image Size,' and 'Output Sharpening.' NO, it is not the same methodology as Photoshop. NO, it is not as flexible. YES, it does a very nice job with the vast majority of "digital camera image files," once you get used to a different workflow.
    2) smooth border capability (with choice of color) - This can be done using LR's 'Slideshow', 'Print', and Web Modules, choosing the one most appropriate for your target usage. NO, it is not the same methodology as Photoshop, but it does a very nice job on the majority of "digital camera image files." LR also offers multi-media functions that are unavailable in PS.
    In the final analysis you need to learn LR's non-destructive workflow procedures, editing tools and module functions, as a compliment to what you already know about using Photoshop. The two applications are mutually independent, but play together well when needed.

  • How do I non-destructively sharpen, re-size and save my images if I'm using both LR & CS6?

    Hi guys {and gals}... 
    Ok... here is my dilemma. I am having an incredibly difficult time understanding the best way to sharpen, re-size and save my images for both posting on the web and giving them to clients. I completed my first paid photo shoot (yay!), but as I finished editing each image, I re-sized it and posted it on my FB photography page. I later learned from a fellow at my local print shop that this is a destructive and irreversible edit (not yay! ).
    So...  before I pull out every last strand of hair on my head, I REAALLLYYYY need to get a good grasp on how to do the following things so that I can establish a good workflow: 1. Sharpen my image well {w/ Smart Sharpen}. Does this have to be done on a flattened image... and isn't flattening irreversible?  2. Re-sizing my images for both web display and client work/printing. Is it true that once I set it to 72ppi for web display, that I lose a great deal of the detail and quality? Do I need to create a copy of the file and have 2 different image sizes?
    I am self taught, learning off the cuff through tutorials and constant error... and I just want so badly to have a smooth and beneficial work flow in place.
    Currently, my workflow is as follows...  1. Load images into LR and convert to DNG files  2. Quick initial edit & then send into PS CS6  3. Perform detailed/layered edit(s)  4. {I know I'm supposed to sharpen now, as the last step, but am afraid to permanently flatten my image in case I want to tweak the layers later..}  5. Save the file (unflattened)  6. Go back into LR and Export the file to the appropriate place on my hard drive
    So... at this point, my image is still at 300ppi {not appropriate for web display}, unflattened {I'm told flattened images are ideal for client work and printing} and not as sharp as I want it to be {because I don't know when to apply Smart Sharpen filter}.
    HELP!!!!!!! 
    Thanks in adavnce for "listening" to me ramble...
    ~ Devon

    There are a lot smarter guys on this forum than I so will let them give you ideas on the sharpen workflow.
    Is DNG the same as RAW in that all the edits are non-destructive?  With RAW all the edits are put on a separate XMP file and believe with DNG the XMP file is written to the image.  In this case would suggest you save the DNG then create a jpg to send to clients or on web.  A jpg will not save layers so it is by its nature flattened.
    Since you are new to this try this test to understand ppi.  Click on Image/image size. 
          Change Document size to inches. 
          Now uncheck "unsample image" as if this is checked all the pixels will be modified to adjust to the new size.  Unchecked no pixels will be changed.
          Now adjust the resolution from 72 to 300 ppi (pixels per inch).  Note that the Image Size in pixels does not change, but the document size changes.  This means resolution is unchanged.
          Now click "resample image" and change the resolution.  Note how the image size changes and document size stays the same.
    Bottom line quality of picture is the image size in pixels.  THe larger the numbers the higher the quality.

  • Sharpening images for Photobook

    I've been wavering back and forth about the best course of action to sharpen images for my photo books that will be printed on an HP Indigo at Sharedink. Do you think the below steps will yield good results?
    So far my process has been:
    Edit images in Lightroom (color correction, exposure adjustments, and capture sharpening, etc)
    Output full sized tiffs (no output sharpening) to a folder and then import them into my Indesign layout.
    Once finalized, I run a script to resize all images in InDesign to 100%.
    I'd like to apply some output sharpening to these re-sized images and was wondering if importing the images into Lightroom and then exporting them with output sharpening set to Matte Low Setting would yield good results. I don't need a ton of sharpening. I'm just concerned that the Lightroom sharpening is not optimized for Halftone output.
    Thanks for any advice.

    Hello,
    just a guess: Aperture does sharpening during export based on size and designated output process. Just try to export to mail in different sizes: You always get a properly sharpened image, e.g. when exporting to 320px or to 2640px. And from my tests it looks like the images in the book-pdfs are treated the same way - althought edge width of the sharpening tool seems to be somewhat altered to reflect the 300DPI for book output vs. the 72dpi for Internet (mail) output.
    Just a quick remark on sharpening: It just will not do to just sharpen the images independent of output size and resolution, as it is described in an earlier posting in this thread. As soon as an image is scaled more than 120% up or 80% down, dramatic quality losses are inevitable.
    Regards,
    Dieter

  • Sharpen image in photoshop?

    Hi
    I have a some RAW images in (cr2 files) and not all the pictures are in focus (only about half of each picture, so i would like to make everything in focus) there isnt any option to redo the pictures but, what are my options to sharpen it, that visually seems everything in focus!!!
    can you give me couple of options as i was playing in photoshop something and always i managed to push the sharpness a little but also i need to be believable, to be done well and to seem to be done not in photoshop or exaggerated,( but to think was done when the image was taken)
    So how can i sharpen the image(make things in focus ) please?
    (The image is like the one i have attached, first obect is in focus and the background is not, and i would like to try making everything  like the first one in focus)
    Thank you

    Regards Photoshop and wildlife images, it is a simple matter of what is acceptable in your designated end use of the image.  There are clear rules in al Natural History photographic competitions, and they nearly always specifically preclude the use of image manipulation beyond contrast, sharpening etc.   Some insist you use a minimum percentage of the original exposure (you can't enter a radically cropped image), some say no Zoo or wildlife park images, others say zoos are OK if no 'hand of man is visible'.
    Which reminds me of a story.
    Graeme Guy is one of the best wild life photographers in the world. I had the pleasure of teaching him HDR and Photoshop at the 2010 PSNZ National Convention, and had the chance to ask him about some of his techniques.  The shots in question were his amazing humming bird  images where he manages to freeze their wing movement.
    It turned out that he uses seven small strobes set at minimum power (1/128th) giving an effective shutter speed of less than 1/30,000th of a second.  I asked him how it was that with so much close range strobe light, the backgrounds were not black, and it turned out that two of the seven strobes light a false BG, (an A3 photograph, or netting).  Graeme gennerally takes all the medals in New Zealand wildlife competitions, so I asked why were his backgrounds acceptable as they were clearly 'hand of man'.  The answer is that they are so OOF that you can't really see them, (this came from a close friend of Graeme's who happens to be a leading PSNZ wildlife judge!).
    Hmmm....   Ears must have been listening, as the rules were changed after that, and false BGs no longer allowed.

  • Photoshop (cc) crop tool overly sharpens image after crop??

    I have just noticed something really interesting and quite annoying about the photoshop cc crop tool.
    It seems to slightly over sharpen an image after cropping. Does anyone know if there is a way to disable this?
    I did the same crop with the same image in CS4 and looks fine. It's pretty nasty and makes images look very digital.
    Has anyone else noticed this?
    Thanks, Dan

    This might have to do with a change that was made to the default resizing technique in Photoshop between CS4 and now.
    Try this: Open the Preferences dialog box, and in the General panel, change Image Interpolation to "Bicubic (best for smooth gradients)". Then run the same preset.
    If that change makes a Crop tool resize work like it did in CS4, then the reason you saw a change is because in more recent versions of Photoshop the default technique for resampling was changed to "Bicubic Automatic" which tries to pick the right algorithm based on whether you're resampling up or down. It applies to resizing in general (for example, transformations), and you're seeing it because a crop resulted in resampling.
    You can test various settings there to see which one is best for your work.

  • Resampling/sharpening script for single images

    I ask a lot of questions in this forum, but rarely have anything to offer back. Here's an offering that may come in useful in certain situations.
    Muppet Mark, a talented Applescript writer, has put together a script to my specifications for resampling and sharpening single images in InDesign. It works in CS2, 3 and 4.
    The operation is as follows:
    1. You select the image in InDesign.
    2. The script resamples to an effective ppi (at printed size) of 300.
    3. The script then calls on an Action SHARPEN which applies sharpening via a Smart Unsharp Mask. An edge mask is also applied.
    The process is non-destructive, so if the default sharpening is not quite right, it can easily be changed by opening the image in PS.
    The script, action and details of operation (148 kB) can be downloaded from:
    http://www.mediafire.com/?mij5dnyhtcl
    A CS4 test file (88 MB) to see the effect of the script can be downloaded from:
    http://www.mediafire.com/?yeymmdievnv

    Let me be the first to thank you. Not sure when I'll get a chance to test it, but it could come in handy.

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