Should i run my battery to 0

should i run my battery to 0%

Here's Apple's advice regarding the MBP's battery:
http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1446

Similar Messages

  • Should I run my battery all the way down the first time I use my new Macbook Pro?

    I just received a new Pro. Is it better to let the battey run all the way down on the first use? Should I charge it all the way up and then let it run all the way down? Does either make any difference? Thanks.

    That is definitely not required.
    About Batteries in Modern Apple Laptops
    Apple - Batteries - Notebooks
    Extending the Life of Your Laptop Battery
    Apple - Batteries
    Determining Battery Cycle Count
    Calibrating your computer's battery for best performance
    MacBook and MacBook Pro- Mac reduces processor speed when battery is removed while operating from an A-C adaptor
    Battery University

  • Should I run my battery down?

    Will the battery last longer if I run it all the way down on a regular basis?

    No... Batteries do like variety though.

  • Should I run down the battery in my iPad before charging it?

    A friend says you should always run the battery all the way down before recharging the iPad or iPhone.  This increases the life of the battery.  Is this true?  I remember years ago that this was true but thought the new batteries don't need that.

    The somebody needs to let Apple know that they are posting bad information.
    https://www.apple.com/batteries/ipad.html
    Use Your iPad Regularly
    For proper reporting of the battery’s state of charge, be sure to go through at least one charge cycle per month (charging the battery to 100% and then completely running it down).

  • MBPR: Run on battery or power?

    I have just got my hands on a brand new Mac Book Pro with Retina display.
    My current practise is to run the laptop on the battery, then put it on the charger when it gets either to the end of the day or 10% battery power.
    How should I run the MacBook to get the logest battery life?
    Should I run the battery flat everytime before I recharge? run it on power all the time?
    thanks

    There is a lot of misinformation going around about how to handle Lithium-Ion batteries.  First, and foremost, do not run the batttery down to shutoff every time.  That does nothing good for the battery.  Lithium-Ion batteries do not have a memory like the old NiCads and there is no such thing as calibrating a Lithium battery.  All that can be calibrated is the charge reporting circuitry.
    Next, keeping the MBPr plugged in and running on line power will not harm the battery.  Take it off the line periodically, at least monthly, and run the battery down to 50% and then recharge.
    The charging circuit will not overcharge the battery, it stops charging when the battery reaches 100% and switches to power-only mode.  When the battery charge trickles down to 93-95% the charging circuit kicks in again and tops up the battery.
    Studies by independent testers have found that Lithium-Ion batteries discharged to 50% and then recharged will have four to five times the charge cycle life of a battery discharged to shutdwon every time.  So partial discharging is a much bettery way to operate your MBPr.

  • My MacBook Pro 13" won't turn on 90% of the time I try to get it running, and when it does turn on, even on a charger, it shuts down if I stop using it for 2  seconds and it won't turn back on. Should I replace the battery?

    My MacBook Pro 13" won't turn on 90% of the time I try to get it running, and when it does turn on, even on a charger, it shuts down if I stop using it for 2+ seconds and it won't turn back on. Should I replace the battery?  It doesn't hold a charge either...

    EmadJamal,
    the battery won’t melt because of long connection to the AC charger, although that has the potential of reducing the battery’s life.
    Do you have access to a second 60 W AC charger to test with your MacBook Pro, or access to a second 13-inch MacBook Pro against which your AC charger could be tested?

  • HT4060 Should I let the battery run down before charging my iPad or iPhone to help the battery last longer?

    Should I let the battery run down before charging my iPad or iPhone or iPod Nano to help the battery last longer?  I took a class at Verizon and they said let it drain completely and it would last longer.  Thanks

    The quickest way (and really the only way) to charge your iPad is with the included 10W USB Power Adapter. iPad will also charge, although more slowly, when attached to a computer with a high-power USB port (many recent Mac computers) or with an iPhone Power Adapter (5W). When attached to a computer via a standard USB port (most PCs or older Mac computers) iPad will charge very slowly (but iPad indicates not charging). Make sure your computer is on while charging iPad via USB. If iPad is connected to a computer that’s turned off or is in sleep or standby mode, the iPad battery will continue to drain.
    Apple recommends that once a month you let the iPad fully discharge & then recharge to 100%.
    How to Calibrate Your Mac, iPhone, or iPad Battery
    http://www.macblend.com/how-to-calibrate-your-mac-iphone-or-ipad-battery/
    At this link http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/galaxy-tab-android-tablet,3014-11.html , tests show that the iPad 2 battery (25 watt-hours) will charge to 90% in 3 hours 1 minute. It will charge to 100% in 4 hours 2 minutes. The new iPad has a larger capacity battery (42 watt-hours), so using the 10W charger will obviously take longer. If you are using your iPad while charging, it will take even longer. It's best to turn your new iPad OFF and charge over night. Also look at The iPad's charging challenge explained http://www.macworld.com/article/1150356/ipadcharging.html
    Also, if you have a 3rd generation iPad, look at
    Apple: iPad Battery Nothing to Get Charged Up About
    http://allthingsd.com/20120327/apple-ipad-battery-nothing-to-get-charged-up-abou t/
    Apple Explains New iPad's Continued Charging Beyond 100% Battery Level
    http://www.macrumors.com/2012/03/27/apple-explains-new-ipads-continued-charging- beyond-100-battery-level/
    New iPad Takes Much Longer to Charge Than iPad 2
    http://www.iphonehacks.com/2012/03/new-ipad-takes-much-longer-to-charge-than-ipa d-2.html
    Apple Batteries - iPad http://www.apple.com/batteries/ipad.html
    Extend iPad Battery Life (Look at pjl123 comment)
    https://discussions.apple.com/thread/3921324?tstart=30
    New iPad Slow to Recharge, Barely Charges During Use
    http://www.pcworld.com/article/252326/new_ipad_slow_to_recharge_barely_charges_d uring_use.html
    Tips About Charging for New iPad 3
    http://goodscool-electronics.blogspot.com/2012/04/tips-about-charging-for-new-ip ad-3.html
    Prolong battery lifespan for iPad / iPad 2 / iPad 3: charging tips
    http://thehowto.wikidot.com/prolong-battery-lifespan-for-ipad
    In rare instances when using the Camera Connection Kit, you may notice that iPad does not charge after using the Camera Connection Kit. Disconnecting and reconnecting the iPad from the charger will resolve this issue.
     Cheers, Tom

  • W510 checkered pixel patterns while running on battery [workaroun​d]

    Hey all, got my W510 in the mail yesterday and am quite pleased with it so far, but I have one issue that I've determined to be related to the power profiles.  When using any energy-saving power profile while running off battery power, when I have a flash website (e.g. Nvidia's homepage) open in IE or Chrome or if I move any window around the screen enough, some kind of strange pixel checkering occurs constantly when the screen has too much activity.  It's as if every other pixel gets shifted over by one making what looks like a checkerboard out of all the pixels on the screen.  I can still read the screen, but it makes my head spin.
    If I choose the standard 'Max Performance' power profile, the issue doesn't manifest when running on the battery.  If I choose any of the others or create my own profile to mimic the Max Performance profile, I still get the checkers.  It still manifests if I go through and turn off all power-saving options or increase the brightness of the backlight.  If I start with the Max Performance profile and adjust it to my needs, the problem doesn't occur.  Something tells me that the performance profile has something subtly different than all the others and it's not a configurable setting.
    Has anyone else experienced this problem?  Should I upgrade my Nvidia drivers from version 188.25, which came with the machine?  I've read that other people have had issues upgrading their Nvidia driver.  The way the system behaves, this seems like a power management issues more than an Nvidia driver issue.
    Edit: I should also add that I don't have the issue while running on the AC adapter.  Also if I take a screenshot while the pixel shifting occurs, the screenshot is crisp and clear with no signs of the pixel problem.  This seems purely hardware/power management related.
    Edit: see my later post on adjusting the power settings to work around this issue.
    Solved!
    Go to Solution.

    It's reasonably likely that whatever issue you're seeing is linked to a setting in the NVIDIA Control Panel. So the best diagnostic you can do is, in high-performance mode (where the problem DOESN'T occur), write down the value of EVERY single setting that's available in that control panel.
    Then, put the machine in a power mode in which the problem DOES occur. Then again go into the NVIDIA Control Panel and check every single available setting to see if anything has changed. There's a reasonable chance that you'll then find out what setting is causing the problem.
    A picture is worth a thousand words, and a video probably ten times that. Taking a close-up shot of the screen while the problem is occuring, with either a still camera or preferably a video camera (or both), may help siginifcantly in diagnosing the problem. A simulated picture may differ in some subtle way from what's really happening, and those subtleties may be important. For instance, does the effect only break up vertical lines, and not horizontal lines? And does it only happen to content that is moving on the screen? And you're running your display at its native resolution, and not some larger or smaller resolution, right? Is the horizontal offset in the effect always just one pixel-width, or is it more than one pixel-width if you move things fast enough?
    The simulated picture that you provide looks like it suffers from an artifact that appears WITHIN moving items that are displayed on an interlaced-scan display. The artifact goes away when the item ceases to move. But these aren't supposed to be interlaced displays. And I assume that you're talking about the built-in LCD in the W510, and not some external display, right? If somehow your display card is in interlaced display mode, then the problem probably won't appear in any screenshot the W510 takes of its own display. So at least that part of such a problem would agree with what you're describing.
    So maybe the card is in an interlaced display mode when it's not supposed to be. Such a setting would normally be contained under some sort of "Video" menu in the NVIDIA Control Panel.
    And from nVIDIA's website:
    http://nvidia.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/nvidia.cfg/php/​enduser/std_adp.php?p_faqid=2343&p_created=1231528​...!!&p_li=&p_topview=1
    "Graphics card temperatures typically range from 40°C to 90°C."
    The only mention of interlacing that I see on their site for that graphics card is in the "Features" section of:
    http://www.nvidia.com/object/product_quadro_fx_880​_m_us.html
    "PureVideo HD Technology 
    NVIDIA® PureVideo® technology is the combination of high-definition video processors and software that delivers unprecedented picture clarity, smooth video, accurate color, and precise image scaling for SD and HD video content. Features include, high-quality scaling, spatial temporal de-interlacing, inverse telecine, and high quality HD video playback from DVD."
    Plus there are many references to interlace features in the "NVIDIA Accelerated Linux Graphics Driver README and Installation Guide" which covers your video card. And those features are also presumably present in the Windows driver as well:
    http://us.download.nvidia.com/XFree86/Linux-x86_64​/195.36.08/README/README.txt
    One such reference is:
    "While [it] is possible to apply de-interlacing algorithms to progressive streams using the techniques outlined in the VDPAU documentation, NVIDIA does not recommend doing so. One is likely to introduce more artifacts due to the inverse telecine process than are removed by detection of bad edits etc."
    So maybe it's trying to do spatial temporal de-interlacing when it doesn't need to (I once wrote software to do spatial temporal de-interlacing for a thermal camera, and you don't want that to be turned on when it's not supposed to be turned on). It mentions the de-interlacing in connection with a video mixer feature. So that's another possibility.
    Anyway, that should keep you busy, if you want to fix it. ;-)  Good luck!

  • My macbook pro 2.0 early 2011 will not go to sleep with the power source connected. only enters sleep mode when running on battery. Someone did this happen, and it could solve?

    Alo, my Macbook pro i7 2 GHz Intel Core i7 (early 2011) will not go to sleep with the power source connected. only enters sleep mode when running on battery. Someone did this happen, and it could solve?

    There is no output from that command line?   Maybe the pid changed.
    I'll repeat what I am trying to find out...
    1. You do a pmset -g on the terminal.
    2. The output from that pmset should have a line that says "sleep 0 (imposed by n)" where n is some number.
    3. The ps ax | grep n is supposed to display what the process associated with n is.
    It's the output from step 3 that should indicate what is causing you not to sleep.
    But speaking of sleep, that's where I am going.

  • Plugging in vs. Running on Battery

    So I've heard the old "commuter on a train" bit about how long a battery should be plugged in vs. running on battery, but I find this answer sorely lacking in details. Right now, I have new Macbook Pro that I run mostly where I can plug it in or run if off battery. It makes no difference to me. Obviously, I want to plug it in as much as I can without damaging the battery so as not to add unnecessary charge cycles to the battery, but I know that it is bad to have the battery plugged in 100% of the time. Has Apple actually released a ratio of how long it should be plugged in vs. running on battery? Like, plug it in 80% of the time and charge it 20%. Or is it more about charge cycles? Like, plug it in as much as you can while still getting one charge cycle per week or something?
    Thanks

    Welcome,
    I have new Macbook Pro...
    If it is truly new (black keys) you might wish to post in the forum area for the current MBPs here:
    http://discussions.apple.com/category.jspa?categoryID=251
    The forum you found is for the older MBPs with detachable batteries; their battery technology is somewhat different from yours, and, if someone failed to notice "brand New" in your post (people tend to speed-read these forums), they could give advise or opinions not applicable to your model.
    The problem is not you; Apple labels the forums with names not physically found on the computer or its box.
    That said, the "cycles" issue seems pretty similar across the models. From seeing post here where the users got long battery life, it seems that roughly two cycles per week is part of their success.
    The main point for any computer battery is to run the computer from the battery on a regular basis. Li batteries are like muscles--if not used they atrophy.

  • Should I remove my battery from my macbook Al?

    If I am using my macbook Al "for-days-on-end" connected to a 24"LED Display should I remove the battery or does it not matter?
    I read Li-ion batteries are not affected and have a set lifespan no matter how long or how many times you charge them - but wanted to confirm this info.
    Thanks!

    Leave the battery in. Running it a few hour a week without external power may extend the battery life a bit. If you run without the batter, it won't run at full speed.
    <http://support.apple.com/kb/HT2332>
    "It is strongly recommended that you do not use your MacBook or MacBook Pro while the battery is removed."
    <http://www.gearlog.com/2008/11/applenotebooks_take_hugeperf.php>
    <http://www.tomshardware.com/news/apple-macbook-pro-battery-benchmarks,6643.html >
    <http://blog.wired.com/gadgets/2008/11/new-macbooks-ta.html>

  • What should I run off a UPS to protect myself from data loss?

    I am wanting to safeguard my data. I am considering using a UPS to aid this. I experienced a major mains power brown out last year, and escaped then any damage or data loss. I do not want to risk damage/losing data from power problems.
    I think I'd need to run off the UPS the following -
    Mac Book
    Associated external HDD
    Should I run other equipment off the UPS? My cable modem? My wireless routers (Belkin and Airport Express)??
    Cheers, all
    Ken

    What you run off the UPS is totally up to you and the capacity of your UPS. I don't generally run my notebooks on a UPS but I definitely use one with my desktop as any brief power loss would cause the system to go down without some type of power backup. If you want to still be able to get online when your power goes out, you'll want to keep your cable modem and wireless router connected as well. If you really want to conserve power and get maybe a few extra minutes, you can skip the wireless router and connect directly with your modem via an ethernet cable. The less you have on the UPS, the more time you'll be able to run on battery. Where I live, power outages are fairly infrequent. I'm generally just concerned with having enough time to finish what I'm working on then shutting down.

  • Which setting should i use for battery threshold.

    After reading almost everything regarding this topic, i still having hard time to decide.
    I'm using my W520 95% of the time on AC adapter,
    I should let the power manager "Maximum lifespan mode" decide or should i set the battery threshold on some specific percentage ?
    Thanks.
    W520 427637u

    Hi OrElm!
    Check these Knowledgebase articles:
    "How can I increase battery life?"
    "Why did my battery lose capacity?"
    "Why did my battery die?"
    "Should I run with my battery in or out?"
    Hope they help! Ask if more questions.
    I don't work for Lenovo. I'm a crazy volunteer!

  • 4030cdt - battery charged but won't run on battery

    Hi i have upgraded my laptop to 190mb ram,and latest bios, installed a 20gb disk and am now running windows xp.
    Since putting xp on i lost the battery monitor utility.
    I mostly use the laptop from the mains supply.
    Now it wont run on the battery at all, i get about 40 seconds then windows shuts down.
    I have measured 12volts directly from the battery and tested a small buzzer from it.
    Anyone got any ideas.Has the battery developed this memory thing where it requires a full discharge?
    or
    would it be the power utility on the laptop causing the problem ?

    Hi
    How old is your battery?
    Usually every notebook died after about 500 charge procedures.
    On my old notebook the battery has died after 2 years. At the end the battery works only 1 min.
    In my opinion you should check if the battery is ok or has a malfunction

  • IBook won't run on battery

    Hi Folks
    Wondering if someone can point me in the right direction here. I have an iBook G3 900 mhz model that I just replace the logic board in (video issue). The ibook runs great now, but all of a sudden it won't work with out the power adapter plugged in. I thought maybe the battery went bad, but I checked it in my other iBook and it is fine.
    I bought the Logic board at a discount because it had a missing plug in connector, which is the one that connects from the Logic board to the power button. I soldered it back on and powered up the Laptop fine. and it even worked with just the battery for a short while, but now only works with the adapter. Should I open it up and re solder the connection, or is this another issue?
    Thanks
    Don

    Hey Don,
    I have an iBook G3 900 mhz model that I just replace the logic board in (video issue).
    Just curious. Did the GPU chip die? or was it the BGA issue? I repair and donate iBooks to inner city school teachers.
    it had a missing plug in connector, which is the one that connects from the Logic board to the power button. I soldered it back on and powered up the Laptop fine.
    Wow good job! That's not easy to do. BTW that plug would have nothing to do with the not running on battery problem. It's part of the "soft start" circuit.
    This is from the service manual for the 900:
    "The computer runs when plugged into a wall outlet but not on battery power
    1. Reseat battery to verify battery is seated correctly with battery lock engaged.
    2. Try known-good charged battery.
    3. Reset the power manager by pressing the key combination Control-Option-Shiftpower.
    Warning: Make sure you do not hold down the "fn" key when resetting the
    power manager.
    Warning: Resetting the power manager will permanently remove a RAM disk, if
    present, and all of its contents. You will also need to reset the date and time
    (using the Date & Time control panel).
    4. Replace logic board."
    That "power manager" they speak of is a PMU 99 which I believe is CMOS and very sensitive to static charges.
    Richard

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