Simple voice recording into itunes

How can I record my own speech using itunes please? or point me to a previous thread?
Can anyone suggest a not so expensive microphone which can reduce background noise? I see the ones in the mac store. Are they any good?
Thanks
Gordon

This link is specifically about creating a podcast, but it talks about voice recording in GarageBand. Check out this link:
http://www.apple.com/support/garageband/podcasts/recording/
And if you have iLife, you should have GarageBand.
Diane Wordsmith

Similar Messages

  • Clear Instructions: import Vinyl records into iTunes

    I have been researching for some weeks. Amazing,no succinct article or info on HOW to use a Mac and import music from Vinyl records into iTunes. ( Adam Engst, where is a Tidbits eBook when I need it?)
    I think I have the gist but maybe you audiophiles can clarify for me?
    (not sure what format to use when finally able to import the music file into iTunes)
    - have ordered an AudioTechnica turntable
    -using iMac G4...am I correct that it does not have a distinct "LINE IN"?
    - So, will need iMic from Griffin
    -will use Audacity (available free or lo cost with the iMic?
    -Possibly use "ClickRepair" to rid of clicks and clacks in the music?
    Clean the vinyl first (any suggestions what to use?)
    connect turntable to iMac via iMic
    put record on the platter
    launch Audacity
    start the turntable
    tell Audacity to record into a non compressed format (so I can use ClickRepair).
    after both software products have finished, import into iTunes?
    As what? AiFF, Apple Lossless?
    Any and all advice appreciated.
    (This is birthday gift for hubby and I want to get it right !)
    Message was edited by: Barbara Passman3

    Work Flow - Recording a vinyl LP to the Mac for iTunes
    The short version of what needs to be done is this:
    * Set up the hardware - find the cables needed to connect the turntable to the Mac.
    * Provide an RIAA EQualization curve - this can be done with hardware or software
    * Clean the vinyl LP
    * Set up the recording software - select input and output, designate where the file is to be saved and in what format (considering quality level desired and hard drive space available), enable "pass through" (so you can listen while recording), and set the recording level.
    * Record
    * Edit - define tracks, if necessary, clean pops and scratches, if possible
    * Import into iTunes - name tracks, change file format, if necessary to save hard drive space
    Here is the long version:
    *Hardware:
    I suggest connecting your turntable to a stereo amplifier or pre-amplifier which has a "Phono" input. The (red and white) RCA plugs on the turntable would plug into the Phono jacks on the back of the amp. Then, use a stereo-RCA-to-1/8th-inch-minijack-cable (RadioShack) to connect a set of the amplifier's "Line Out" jacks to the Mac's audio "Line In" port.
    If your Mac does not have a "Line In" port, I highly recommend the Griffin iMic ($40 - http://www.griffintechnology.com/products/imic/). The iMic comes with a short RCA-minijack cable; you will probably want a 1/8th inch stereo extension cable which is long enough to reach between the turntable and the Mac.
    I also suggest a good set of headphones - especially if you are applying filters and effects. It will be difficult or impossible to tell what you are doing if you are monitoring the results with typical computer speakers. I use (and highly recommend) the Sennheiser HD-485s although there are many others you could choose from.
    * RIAA Equalization - As mentioned elsewhere in this thread, you will need to provide an RIAA equalization curve so your LPs will sound right when played back. Your stereo amplifier or pre-amp with a "Phono" input has that built in, so you are all set.
    If, however, you don't have an amp or pre-amp with "Phono" inputs, then you could connect the turntable's RCA jacks directly to the iMic and use the Final Vinyl software (included with the iMic) to provide the RIAA curve (Filters>Add>EQ> then check the button "Connected to a turntable"). I can't comment on the results from using Final Vinyl's for the RIAA, because I use a stereo amp.
    * Clean the vinyl LP:
    First, I use a brush with very fine nylon bristles and a weak solution of dishwashing detergent in tepid water (http://www.needledoctor.com/Online-Store/Nylon-Bristle-Brushes) to remove dirt and fingerprints. Gently work the bush with a concentric motion, following the groves, then, rinse under tepid tap water and blot dry on a clean tea towel.
    This will leave some lint, so clean again by using the Discwasher brush (http://www.needledoctor.com/Discwasher-D4-Kit?sc=2&category=108), held lightly, on the LP as it rotates on your turntable. After using up my Discwasher fluid, I started mixing my own: half distilled water and half isopropyl alcohol.
    I should mention, my goal was to clean the LP for one last playback for the recording, without consideration of what long-term effect my cleaning method might have on the LP.
    Don't forget to examine the needle on the turntable cartridge - it can collect crud which seriously degrades the playback quality. The Discwasher kit has a little brush for the needle, too - careful - it's very fragile.
    *Set up the Software:
    For general recording, including LPs, I recommend "Audio Hijack Pro" ($32 - http://www.rogueamoeba.com/audiohijackpro/) I prefer Audio Hijack Pro to Final Vinyl and CD Spin Doctor, because I can use it to record from many more sources (including streaming audio from the internet), it has many more options for effects and file types, a better Help manual, and, in my experience, fewer crashes. However, Audio Hijack Pro does not offer an RIAA equalization curve, as does Final Vinyl.
    - Format - IF you have enough hard drive space, I would suggest you make the initial recording in 16 bit AIFF format at 44.1kHz. That is the standard format used by audio CDs, so this file type can be burned directly to CDs without conversion or compression. Every audio software application should be able to open an AIFF file.
    If the AIFF files take up too much room on your hard drive, you can always convert them to MP3 or AAC, using your recording software or iTunes, but I suggest you first burn a copy of your AIFF recording to a CD, so you can go back to the original "master" recording in case you want to re-edit it later.
    Some file formats which are compressed - like MP3s - get re-compressed every time you Save. A little information is lost each time the file is compressed, so if you are doing a lot of editing and saving, the file can degrade. That's why I prefer to do any editing on AIFF files, which I change to high quality MP3s in iTunes only when I am done editing.
    - Refer to your software help files to learn how to set input and output, save preferences, and to enable pass through, if needed, so you can hear what you are recording.
    - Next, you will need to set the "level" to be as strong as possible without clipping. Clipping results in distortion when the signal is too strong. If the signal is too weak, the recording will be noisy because the junk will be louder relative to the desired audio. Audio Hijack Pro has "VU Meters" with clipping indicators, and you can set up a "Gain" control to increase or decrease the signal strength. You may need to visit the Mac's "Sound" Preference Pane>Input Tab, to change the signal strength at the system level.
    - Your recording software may offer a few - or many - filters and effects. Filters and effects are available as plugins, so you may be able to find even more as free downloads or for sale. Many filters and effects are going to be of interest only to sound engineers and only for rare special circumstances. Some are quite useful when cleaning up tape or microphone recordings, but I have not found any which are very effective on LP-type pops and scratches. You can waste a LOT of time playing around with these.
    My suggestion is to make your "master" raw recording using few or no effects, then go back and edit COPIES of the master, so if you mess it up, you can start over. With experience, you will learn what works - only then you should apply the filters as you record.
    * Record:
    If your recording software offers these features, here is something you may want to try when recording LPs. One is a feature to automatically detect the "silent" groove between tracks so the finished recording will consist of a separate file for each track. You may have to adjust some sensitivity settings to get this to work, and I found it to be somewhat fussy.
    Another useful feature is a Pause button, so you can turn over an LP without actually stopping and restarting the recording - and also without the sounds of picking up the needle from side A and setting it down on side B. The pause feature is especially nice when the LP is really one long recording, such as a symphony.
    If you are recording in the AIFF format, don't waste time naming albums, artists, and tracks in the recording software. That info is not encoded in the AIFF file, so when you move the file to iTunes you will have to rename everything again. Might work if you are recording in the MP3 format.
    * Edit:
    If your finished recording lacks tracks, you can re-create them by using the "split" feature of your editing software - which may be the same as your recording software, or something different. I really like Fission for simple editing like splits, cuts and fades, and they claim it's "lossless" even when editing MP3s (http://rogueamoeba.com/fission/). It's particularly good for trimming off the "silent" grooves at the start and end of the LP where the pops are much more obtrusive. For applying filters and equalization, I stick with Audio Hijack.
    The Holy Grail for LP recordings is trying to eliminate pops and scratches. I can't offer too much encouragement. Nothing I've tried has been very effective in reducing pops and scratches, and everything I've tried which has helped, has also degraded the recording somewhat, usually dulling the sound a little.
    "CD Spin Doctor" is somewhat useful, offering separate sliders for applying "De-click" De-crackle" and "De-hiss". The effect can quickly be previewed, and after you get the degree of adjustment you want, it can be applied to the whole file (works on AIFF, not MP3). My copy of CD Spin Doctor came with Toast Titanium 6, but I see it is now being sold on Roxio's site as a stand-alone application ($40 - http://www.roxio.com/enu/products/spindoctor/overview.html). Sadly, the improvement I've seen in LP noise has been less than miraculous.
    Many reviewers say great things about SoundSoap2, but I was disappointed. It is the best noise reduction software I have tried, and also the most expensive ($129 - http://www.bias-inc.com/products/soundSoap2/), but I was unable to make much improvement in LP pops and scratches without also degrading the overall quality of the audio. It has a "Learn Noise" feature which is very cool - in theory. Find a groove to sample with pops (but no music) and SoundSoap2 will eliminate the same noise profile from the entire recording. There is another cool feature in which you can listen just to the "noise" which is to be removed - and there you will hear the learned "pop" also includes quite a bit of the music spectrum.
    SoundSoap2 is pretty good at cleaning up hiss from tape recordings and wind noise from microphone recordings, but not so good for LPs.
    Some editing software (like CD Spin Doctor and SoundSoap2) offer an "Exciter" or "Excitifier" effect which helps restore some of the brilliance and high end which is lost in noise reduction. This is one of the few effects which I've found to be useful, if used in moderation.
    I haven't tried "ClickRepair" which I just learned about from this thread, but after reading the website (http://wwwmaths.anu.edu.au/~briand/sound/) and Version Tracker, I'm hopeful that it will perform better than CD Spin Doctor and Soundsoap2. Thanks for the tip.
    * Import into iTunes:
    After I have the recording edited and cleaned, I import it into iTunes. At this stage I usually have AIFF files, one for each track on the LP. In iTunes, the album and tracks will have generic names (track 1, track 2, etc.), so I edit the Album name, track titles, genre, year, etc (File>Get info>Info tab); Select the whole album before "get info" to edit the Album, Artist, Genre and Year info, but select each track one-at-a-time to edit the Track titles.
    Next, I burn one or two "master" copies of the edited recording as an audio CD form the AIFF files. Be aware that if you burn an audio CD, the album and track names you edited will appear only when you insert that CD back into the same Mac it was burned on - take it to another Mac or PC and all you will see are the Generic names (track 1, etc) - this is normal for an audio (AIFF) CD.
    Because they take up so much room, I don't keep AIFF files on my hard drive - I use iTunes to convert them to MP3 files (Advanced>Convert Selection to MP3). You may want to use AAC or some other format, instead. Consider all possible future uses of your iTunes library (iPod vs non-Apple MP3 player, compatibility with the CD player in your car or home stereo, quality of your playback equipment, etc.)
    To change the quality of the MP3 or AAC files imported to iTunes, go to: Preferenes>Advanced>Importing. (I use a Custom import setup of: High Quality (160kbps), Variable bit rate - a step up from the mor common 128kbps MP3.) Whatever settings you have selected here is what will be used when your AIFF files are converted to MP3. After converting the recording to MP3, I delete the AIFF file from iTunes (and my hard drive), but I keep my master (AIFF) CD in a safe, accessible location.
    If I want a music mix to listen to in my car, or for a party, or for background music while I work, the MP3 files on my hard drive are fine. However, if I really want to listen to the music on quality playback equipment, I'll choose the CD I burned from the uncompressed (AIFF) file.
    Hope this helps.

  • I used a usb turntable to import old vinyl records into iTunes. Then with the cloud and iTunes match I put them on another Mac.  The songs come up in the music list but they are greyed out.  How do I get them recognized.

    I used a usb turntable to import old vinyl records into iTunes. Then with the cloud and iTunes match I put them on another Mac.  The songs come up in the music list but they are greyed out.  How do I get them recognized.  The symbol states the songs were downloaded from iCloud.  I would like to get them to play so that I can make a playlist, and burn a CD.

    Try:
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    Reset iOS device: Hold down the On/Off button and the Home button at the same time for at
    least ten seconds, until the Apple logo appears.
    - Unsync all music and resync
    - Reset all settings      
    Go to Settings > General > Reset and tap Reset All Settings.
    All your preferences and settings are reset. Information (such as contacts and calendars) and media (such as songs and videos) aren’t affected.
    - Restore from backup. See:                                 
    iOS: How to back up           
    - Restore to factory settings/new iOS device.

  • Simple voice recorder/save for curve 8320?

    Can anyone recommend a simple voice recorder for the curve 8320 where I can record voice notes and save them directly to my phone instead of emailing/mms'n them using the built in send voice note feature on the phone?  I have tried using handango and their software sucks, stuff doesn't work and I tried the vr+ voice recorder program they have and don't like it, I just want something simple.
    Does it exist?

    soon, a Handheld OS version 4.5 will be available for your carrier (if you're at AT&T it already is). Inside it there will be a video mode : you'll be able to take pictures like today, and also 3GP videos.
    If you want, you can install it from AT&T and delete the vendor.xml file on your PC before launching the Desktop Manager to upload the OS on your Blackberry.
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    The search box on top-right of this page is your true friend, and the public Knowledge Base too:

  • What is the process for recording vinyl records into iTunes using the Sony USB Turntable?

    What is the process for recording vinyl records into iTunes using the Sony USB Turntable?

    What is the process for recording vinyl records into iTunes using the Sony USB Turntable?

  • How to break up a voice recording into navigable "chapters".

    I am trying to make a voice recording (a Podcast on GarageBand) that I can then break up into "chapters". I want to be able to use the track button on a CD player or an iPod to navigate these chapters.
    I have already made a Podcast recording in GB, but am unable to figure out how to break it up into "chapters" (with names that will appear on an iPod or CD player). Three questions:
    1) Is a podcast in GB the best way to accomplish this? and
    2) Should I break it up into "chapters" in GB or in iTunes? and
    3) How do I do it?
    Help me please!

    Sure! GarageBand is great for recording and combining tracks, but SoundStudio, for me at least, is more intuitive when I'm manipulating a single track. For instance, SoundStudio lets you mark various points in your audio track, then split and save them as individual files via a single menu command. It's like having a single audio track in GarageBand expanded to fill the whole application window, and the suite of tools is aimed at manipulating that single track, not mixing multiple tracks together.
    But the end result will be exactly the same — it's just a little easier for me to get there with SoundStudio. Unfortunately, SoundStudio is quite expensive (it came free on my Mac, but the latest version costs $80), so if you only need to split one audio file GarageBand will work just fine.

  • How do I upload a digital voice recording to iTunes 10?

    I have a new Olympus VN8100 digital voice recorder that I used the other day to record a meeting.  The instructions tell you how to hook it up to a Mac and how to dismount it, but not what to do in between to upload the recording to a computer. 
    I did manage to burn the recording to a CD-R, but I can't find  an "Import CD" option in the File menu, so I haven't been able to store it on my Mac.  When I select "Add to Library...", neither the burned CD-R nor the VN8100 icon shows up in the list of Desktop items. 
    I can't even figure out how to play back the CD I burned to make sure it burned successfully--iTunes Help doesn't offer anything useful and the tutorials don't cover that.
    I assumed I could put a spoken recording on my computer with the iTunes application, but maybe that's changed with iTunes 10?  Can anyone walk me through this?  Thanks so much for your help!

    dianefromeliot wrote:
    Thanks for the software suggestion - http://mac.softpedia.com/get/Audio/Audio-Recorder.shtml - it looks good. Why do you use it instead of Garage Band?
    Had it before GB existed; I use other audio software for other tasks, but this one is probably the most easy to use app (of any kind) I've ever used. Click, speak, click, click. Done, with file sitting on my desktop.

  • Voice recording in iTunes

    I am trying to record my own voice (just talking) and make it an mp3 file to send it as an attachment in the e-mail.
    Is that possable with iTunes or do I need some other Mac program?
    I could do it in iMovie HD 6, copy it to the desktop and bring it to iTunes. From there I'll change it to mp3 and drag it to the desktop again.
    Is there an easier way?

    This link is specifically about creating a podcast, but it talks about voice recording in GarageBand. Check out this link:
    http://www.apple.com/support/garageband/podcasts/recording/
    And if you have iLife, you should have GarageBand.
    Diane Wordsmith

  • What software do I need to get music from a vinyl record into ITunes

    What software do I need to get music from a vinyl record into ITunes

    When I used Audacity to digitize some of my LPs I would record the whole album, then trim the lead in, select and export the first track, delete that, then export the next track, and so on. You can zoom in and out to locate the track breaks. There is a snap to zero point option which should prevent clicks on track transitions. If you want to go deeper you can add fade in and out so you don't snap into the sound of the groove. (I was using a pretty ropey turntable). There are other tools that chop up audio but you should be able to do it all in Audacity reasonably quickly once you get your eye in. I'm sure there are tools that can chop audio at pre-specified points, or even calculate where those points should be, but they are unlikely to be free and probably still need a degree of supervision.
    tt2

  • Need Tutorial for Simple Voice Recording

    I'm running for public office, and a local newspaper invited me to submit a statement along with a MP3 audio file. I asked a question on another forum about software that can be used to make MP3 files on a Leopard platform, and I was told to use GarageBand.
    I viewed the video tutorial for Podcasts and also checked out another Apple tutorial, but they don't go very far. In contrast, GarageBand 3: Getting Started is overwhelming.
    I would like to start by making a very simple audio - nothing more than a two-minute recording of my voice, with no overlaid music, no images, loops or other enhancements.
    Can anyone list the steps I need to follow, from recording my speech to converting it to an MP3 file?
    I've cliked the Male track, recorded my voice, stopped the recording (though probably incorrectly), then double-clicked on the file to play it back, but nothing happens.
    Thanks.

    It's very easy:
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    • Hit "record" to record your voice, hit the record button again or the stop button to stop recording.
    • Move the playhead to the appropriate position for playback.
    • If you like your recording, select "Share to iTunes" from the menu and select compression with MP3.

  • How do I make a simple voice recording that can be attached to an email?

    I want to record a short message, mp3 or any format is fine, and attach it to an email. I've tried opening Garage Band to do it, and downloaded Audacity, but I have no idea how to use either one. I have a microphone that plugs into the audio port, and know how to switch to "use audio port for sound input" in preferences. But I want a simple command that says "start recording" instead of the complicated control panels I see in the two programs I've looked at.

    dianefromeliot wrote:
    Thanks for the software suggestion - http://mac.softpedia.com/get/Audio/Audio-Recorder.shtml - it looks good. Why do you use it instead of Garage Band?
    Had it before GB existed; I use other audio software for other tasks, but this one is probably the most easy to use app (of any kind) I've ever used. Click, speak, click, click. Done, with file sitting on my desktop.

  • How can I make a simple voice recording with no instrumentals?

    I just want to record a song or two, save them individually and then burn to a cd.  I don't need all of Garageband whistles and bells.  I'm intimidated at the new 'event/project' start menu.  I don't want to select a key or timing.  I just want to sing the song using the mic on my iMac. This is not going to be posted for the general public and I don't want or need fancy.  Suggestions? Guidance?
    I mistakenly posted this first to the podcasts site.

    Ann Shore wrote:
    I'm intimidated at the new 'event/project' start menu.
    there's nothing to fear there, pick "Acoustic Instrument" for a simple "no bells" recording track
    Ann Shore wrote:
    I don't want to select a key or timing.
    then don't.
    if you don't intend to use any of GB's tools, then the key and tempo don't matter

  • Audio Input Frustrations for simple voice recording.

    I have been trying to make some simple podcasts using garage band, but have had difficulty with audio input. Internal microphone picks up a lot of the ambient noise in the room, and attempts at activating line-in audio have failed. I have gone to system preferences and changed the setting, under "sound">>"Input" to audio line-in port. I have plugged the jack in to the slot next to the headphone. The audio audio line-in input level registers nothing!
    Is there a way for me to test the port, or is there some other setting that needs to be changed in order to get input other than from the internal microphone.

    Hi there:
    I'm not sure what other microphone options exist with that configuration,
    but some users of Macs have gotten a USB device called the iMic from
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    Good luck in this matter, and happy computing!

  • Does the iPad 3 gen, have a voice recorder?

    Does the iPad 3rd gen with retina display, have a voice recorder?

    Not as a built in app - no it does not. If you need a voice recorder, you will have to download an app from the App Store. An app like Quick Voice Recorder.
    https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/quickvoice-recorder/id284675296?mt=8

  • Olympus VN 2100 digital voice recorder and mac

    Is there any way to get the voice recordings I have on my Olympus (VN 2100pc) digital voice recorder into my mac? I understand this recorder is not mac compatible but I have so many recordings that are important on this recorder before I realized it wasn't mac compatible. Any program that will allow me to convert files into mac, on my iBook?
    Thank you.
    Jeff

    It is my understanding that the VN 2100PC has a USB port & cable. The VN 2100 does not; Olympus uses 'pc' to distinguish the two.
    VN 2100pc: http://www.olympusamerica.com/cpgsection/cpg_supportfaqs.asp?id=1270
    VN 2100: http://www.olympusamerica.com/cpgsection/cpg_supportfaqs.asp?id=1269
    Is your question how to convert the files from CELP, ADPCM (WAVE) to a quicktime format after you plug the recorder into your computer and copy the files?
    Or are you having trouble connecting your recorder to your computer?
    It has been my experience that, once connected, a USB profile should show up in Finder and, after a bit of digging, you should be able to find your recordings and copy them.
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