Soft Proofing CS3 and OS X 10.5.2

Issue: Printing with calibrated Artisan Monitor, Epson 4000, Epson Driver version 3.09 results in light magenta proof image but apparently correct image when printed. Hardware platform: Mac pro dual 2.8GH Xeon, 16G memory, 15k sas boot and identical scratch drive.
Printing with application controlled settings (CS3), setting printer to paper profile (Premium Luster), soft proofing on monitor, disabling color management in print dialogue, preview image looks light with magenta cast (as it always did in windows CS3 with Epson preview) but print usually matches soft proof. When I set printer profile (in the CS3 print window)to Adobe RGB or generic RGB, the preview image looks like soft proof, but print very dark. I am totally new to Mac OS, long time XP user, so don't understand much about colorsync, etc.
Is this a photoshop bug, problem in OS X 10.52 or something else?
I also downloaded Colorburst Rip demo and it prints fine, but I much prefer to use native printer driver to save money as planning to upgrade printer.

All the monitor is doing in Photoshop is faithfully PROOFING the Source File (through a Source Profile-to-MonitorRGB Conversion).
"Soft Proof" here usually means Photoshop> View> Proof SetUp> Custom: specific target ICC Profile
Epson Print Preview is not color managed (use it for layout only).
WHY on earth "set printer profile (in the CS3 print window)to Adobe RGB or generic RGB"?
Printer Profile should be set to Specific Printer/Paper/Ink ICC profile...
http://www.gballard.net/psd/printing_Epson_Photoshop_cs3.html
All the printer is doing is PROOFING the Source File (through a Source Profile-to-Printer Profile Conversion).
If your printed PROOF is off, it is either a bad printer profile or bad settings (assuming your monitor is good and you are basing your judgment on the monitor)...

Similar Messages

  • LR 4.2 - how to compare master and soft proof copy?

    Hello Everyone,
    I'd like to use the soft proofing function in LR 4.2 to preview the print output and I'd like to use it to apply some corrections to the pictures before printing them, in order they look like I originally meant them to look like, but I'm experiencing some troubles, possibly caused by the used workflow (I'm not a pro, but my environment is calibrated properly).
    My workflow is:
    1. I import all fotos and apply some changes so that the fotos look like I want them to be (this is the master)
    2. As I want to print them I use the soft proofing function and load the target icc profile with which I create a soft proof copy. Sometimes I notice that the differences between master and soft proof copy are quite drammatic, especially with regards to contrast, vibrance of colors and sometimes also regarding the brightness.
    3. My target is now to adapt the soft proof copy so that it looks like the master (as I wanted the foto to look like), but I can't find any proper way to do so, because:
         - I can't find a (semi-)automated way to adapt the soft proof copy so that it "looks" like the master copy
         - in the Develop module I can't find a way to display both the master foto and the soft proof copy besides each other to compare them, in order to apply changes to the soft proof copy only so that it "looks" like the master.
    The only way I found so far is to switch back and forth bewteen master and soft proof copy to compare them (to be able to apply the needed changes to the soft proof copy), but this is pretty painful, as the fotos don't load immediately, but it always takes some seconds and I have to 'remember' how the master looks like.
    I'm not sure whether I'm doing something terribly wrong, but unfotunately I didn't find any answers to this specific issue so far, that's why I'm writing here.
    Hope you can point me to a solution,
    Regards,
    Plasma2k

    Activate softproofing with your choice of output profile (this can include proofing a web output colourspace such as sRGB).
    Press Y to show a split before/after view (if your Toolbar is not open, press T to open that - this gives different kinds of split view options).
    You will now see a comparison of the un-proofed and proofed appearances of this current image.
    If you then make any develop adjustment from this mode, e.g. to make these two appearances more similar, you are then prompted to create a new proofing (virtual) copy as necessary - which can store these corrective adjustments independently of the main adjustments.
    The before/after view then switches to show a comparison between your starting image (shown without softproofing) against your print-adjusted proof version (shown with softproofing).

  • Soft Proofing now dark & yellow

    Photoshop (CS4 on Windows XP) froze at startup this morning - 3 times in a row.
    I was able to restart but now my custom Soft Proof settings, and I tried serveral, make the images display as dark and yellow.  It's as if the Paper White setting was the equivalent of the lowest grade of old newsprint you care to imagine.
    What happened and how can I fix it?
    cvt

    Well I re-did the monitor profiles with PMP 5 and got  the same results - toggling Soft Proof on and off (Cntrl-Y) displayed a darker/yellow image when on.
    Then I re-profiled both monitors with i!Match (I profiled the lesser, an HP-TFT display, and then matched the NEC IPS to it) and now Soft Proof works as it should.
    Why did PMP 5 do this?
    I ran PMP 5 on another Dell with a Dell monitor to see if I had overlooked some step or setting that was crucial and nothing leaped out at me.
    This makes me wonder if I can depend on any profile from PMP 5.
    cvt

  • LR4: Soft Proofing Batches Of Unique Pictures?

    Hi.  I was wondering if there is a way to do batch processing for soft proofing different pictures similar to the sync functionality?  I created a customer user preset however it seems to copy over the existing settings vs updating the +/-'s in the different areas. For example, I have a bunch of photos from different scenarios, events, actions, times, etc..
    When I am soft proofing to a custom profile, looks like I just need to apply a few universal tweaks to WB (+100), exposure (+20, maybe +30), contrast (+10), blacks (-10), and clarity (+10, maybe +15) to get the soft proof copy to look like the master copy.  Then I can quickly go through the soft proof copies and check.  Is there a way of doing this?
    Also, is there a way of creating a soft proof copy of all the pics in the develop module at once?
    Thanks in advance for your help.
    Cheers,
    George

    smilingcdn@yahoo wrote:
    Andrew and trshaner, thanks for the replies.  Andrew, your answers definitely leave the impression that its a challenge to have good quality pics from big box photo labs.  I guess this is a chance we choose to take.
    I've always gotten very good results from my Costco Photo Center in Ocean, NJ. Post #28 at the link I provided shows tests results I got using sRGB with and without soft proof corrections:
    http://forums.adobe.com/message/4865815#4865815
    smilingcdn@yahoo wrote:
    I will need to read more the potential downside by not having the local adjustments not reflected in the global adjustment tools.  Not familiar with this yet.
    There's no downside as long as you remember that's how you are applying  the "additional" corrections to your soft proof copies. If you need to go back and make additional corrections to any of the soft proof copies you can either update the Graduated filter settings or apply a 2nd Graduated filter with those changes.
    Just be aware that LR applies the Local Adjustment BEFORE the Global Adjustments. The potential danger is that if you apply controls like +Exposure to an image area that is near 100% highlights you will push the image into clipping. The Global controls will NOT be able to recover the clipped data! The same holds true for an image with deep shadow areas. If you use -Exposure your shadows can become clipped. This applies to use of ANY Local adjustments for ANY purpose, not just soft proof adjustments, so you need to be aware of it at all times.
    Since you'll only be making minor color corrections and very moderate tonal corrections to the soft proof images there's very little likelyhood you'll see this issue. For all other usage apply Local settings that REDUCE HIGHLIGHTS and/or RAISE SHADOWS and you won't have a problem.

  • Custom Soft Proof Settings....

    Hi....I'm looking for a way to save and load custom soft proof settings in AiCS4. The Adobe help docs say this is possible:
    http://help.adobe.com/en_US/Illustrator/14.0/WS218910C1-B8D3-450b-AC31-9E6EA50C2BAD.html
    ...but my custom soft proof dialog doesn't give me the options. I'm wondering if it's possible.
    Illustrator CS4 v14.0.0
    Thanks,
    Carl Stawicki

    Well I re-did the monitor profiles with PMP 5 and got  the same results - toggling Soft Proof on and off (Cntrl-Y) displayed a darker/yellow image when on.
    Then I re-profiled both monitors with i!Match (I profiled the lesser, an HP-TFT display, and then matched the NEC IPS to it) and now Soft Proof works as it should.
    Why did PMP 5 do this?
    I ran PMP 5 on another Dell with a Dell monitor to see if I had overlooked some step or setting that was crucial and nothing leaped out at me.
    This makes me wonder if I can depend on any profile from PMP 5.
    cvt

  • Display profiles and soft proofing Windows RGB / Monitor RGB

    This might have asked before, but I did not find any definite answer for this. Sorry this gets a bit long.
    Short question:
    What's the difference between softproofing with Windows RGB and Monitor RGB targets? I see differences in my image between these targets.
    Long question(s):
    Here's some reasoning.. let me know when I go wrong.
    I have hardware calibrated my display Spyder 3 elite to sRGB standard. I have understood that the generated display profile contains a LUT table that affects gamma values for each RGB component, so that affects both gamma and color temperature. That table is loaded into video card when Windows starts. In addition to the LUT table, the display profile contains what? Probably information on what color space the display has been calibrated to. Does that matches directly with the LUT table information, but may deviate from sRGB in the case my monitor cannot reproduce sRGB 100%?
    Now if I have image that that is in sRGB, but the embedded sRGB profile has been stripped away, should any non color management aware image viewer show the colors properly, if it is assumed that 1) my monitor can handle full sRGB space and 2) my monitor was succesfully calibrated to sRGB and the LUT table has been loaded into video card?
    Or does it still require a color management aware program to show the image, which implies that the LUT table information alone is not enough and the display profile contains some extra information that is needed to show the image correctly? I would think this is true, as I needed to turn on color management in Canon Zoom Browser to see images in it the same way as in Photoshop.
    Now to the original question, what's the difference in Photoshop when soft proofing with Windows RGB and Monitor RGB targets
    I read from www.gballard.net that
    Photoshop can effectively "SoftProof" our web browser color:
    Photoshop: View> Proof SetUp> Windows RGB
    Photoshop's Soft Proof screen preview here simulates how unmanaged applications, web browsers, will display the file on 2.2 gamma monitors, based on the sRGB profile. If the file is based on sRGB and our monitor gamma is 2.2 and D/65 6500 degrees Kelvin, we should see very little shift here, which is the goal.
    Photoshop: View> Proof SetUp> Monitor RGB
    THIS IS WHERE the color-brightness-saturation problem will repeat consistantly.
    Soft Proofing Monitor RGB here strips-ignores the embedded ICC profile and Assigns-Assumes-Applies the Monitor profile or color space.
    The color and density changes seen here show the difference between the monitor profile and the source profile sRGB.
    I'm not sure how to read that. Assume here that my monitor has been calibrated to sRGB and the PS working space sRGB. Do in both cases photoshop strip away color profile from the image at first? What happens after that? Does in Windows RGB case Photoshop pass the color values as they are to display? What does it do in "Monitor RGB" case then? Does it assign my monitor profile to the image? If it does, does there also happen conversion from one color space to another? In either one conversion there must happen as the soft proofing results are different. Does either one cause "double profiling" to the image as the monitor is already calibrated?
    Thanks

    Windows defaults to sRGB if you don't calibrate your monitor so untagged sRGB files should display (more or less) correctly in applications that don't know about color management on systems with uncalibrated monitors.
    When proofing against Windows RGB you're proofing against sRGB, it will show you how applications that don't know about color management on an uncalibrated monitor will show the image. This is what you proof against if you want to see how the image will display in web browsers.
    When you proof against Monitor RGB, Photoshop will assign your monitor's icc profile to the image which tends to be utterly useless most of the time.

  • How differs soft proofing in View - Proof Colors and Save for Web - Preview?

    Hi, I'm currently confused with one inconsistency. My working space is Adobe RGB and I use calibrated monitor. After I finish my work on image I go to View -> Proof Colors -> Internet Standard RGB. Image looks terribly with the overall violet/purple hue. Then I open Save for Web dialogue, I check Convert to RGB and from Preview options I select again Internet Standard RGB. Now the previewed image looks as expected. The same results I get if I manually convert image to sRGB before soft proofing and saving for web. So... what's the difference between preview in Proof Colours and in Save for Web? Thank you for your opinions.

    Hi 21, thank you for your input. All what you say makes perfect sense, it is exactly how it should work and how I expected it works. My problem was, that while testing this theory in practice, I have come to different results. I expected, that if I stick to the theory (meaning keeping in mind all rules you perfectly described) I should get the same result in both soft proof and save for web preview. But... it was not the case. Save for web preview offered expected results while soft proof was completely out of any assumptions and colours were totally over-saturated with violet/purple hue. Also, Edit -> Assign Profile -> sRGB gave another result then Soft Proof -> Custom -> assign sRGB (preserve numbers), but the same as save for web preview.  What troubled me was why this is so.
    Today I've made tests on hardware calibrated monitor and... everything works exactly as you describe and as I expected.
    Then I went back to another monitor which is software calibrated (both monitors are calibrated with X-Rite i1 Display Pro). And again... I received strange results described above. So I did the last thing I thought and disabled colour calibration on that monitor. And suddenly... both soft proof and save for web preview gave the same result.
    Probable conclusion: soft proof and save for web preview (together with Edit -> Assign Profile) are programmed to use different algorithm which is evident on standard gamut monitors with software calibration. Question can be closed.
    Gene and 21, thank you for your effort.

  • Soft proofing issue in CS4 using iMac and Epson 3880?

    I have had great success printing to an Epson r1900 never using soft proofing. Purchased a new 3880 and having colour problems. A suggestion was made to use soft proofing. Monitor is calibrated using iOne-looks very good to the eye. Working space from camera to PS is Adobe RGB. I am setting my custom output device to ICC profile for paper (ilford and hanhmule) Is this correct/ 9or should I be setting to Epson Apple RGB? On screen, the proof color looks WAY off the monitor non-proof version, which is spot on, but when I print the image it doesn't look at all like the "soft proof" it looks more like the monitor version. I have read everything I can find-printing on the 3880 is a crap-shoot. Sometimes it matches the screen, sometimes it doesn't and when it doesn't it also isn't matching the soft proof.
    Suggestions?
    Thanks!
    NJ

    Victoria....
    Seems I was to much an optimist...heh
    As I mentioned I did get LR4b on the Imac to find the icc profiles of my epson 2880 but while I was trying to figure out why it would not read my epson 3880 icc profiles and others LR4b suddely corrupted the pref filels once again and I was at ground zero... Just like I was when I first posted on the forum.
    I again threw out the LR4b pref files and it brought back the epson 2280 profiles only??
    So why can't it find my epson 3880 icc profiles or others and only the 2880's... and why do the pref files corrupt.  I was actually soft proofing when the corruption took place and the icc profiles disappeared.
    I'm running the exact same OS on my Macbook Pro and none of these issues have surfaced.
    Oh... I did notice that the fact I require authenication to trash LR4b on the Imac did excist on the Macbook Pro as well ... so I'm guessing this normal or I have two wierd computers.
    Got to love computers..
    Thanks
    George

  • Soft proofing and Out of Gamut warning

    I like to use Blurb for a perfect photo book. I am an amateur photographer but like the most of my pictures on paper.
    What's the perfect workflow for soft proofing ?
    A friend of me has calibrated my screen (Thunderbolt Apple screen).
    My current methode :
    I take a picture in RAW with AdobeRGB profile setting, i adjust a few parameters in Lightroom and then go to Photoshop and start de soft proofing with the Blurb-ICC profile.
    The result with soft proofing is like there's a white mist over the picture. Then i try to optimize this with various parameters.
    When i try the soft proofing with the Blurb ICC profile + out of Gamut warning option .... there are many colors out of gamut .
    My second methode :
    When i import the raw picture in photoshop cc and i convert the picture to the Blurb profile, then there are no out of gamut colors but everything is in CMYK.
    Is this a good way for perfect photo books in Blurb ?
    Or must i ignore the out of gamut colors ?
    Is it better to make my pictures in sRGB ?
    When i want to save the end result in Photoshop cc ( jpeg for Blurb )  must i enclose the Blurb ICC (when in CMYK) , Adobe RGB or sRGB profile (when in RGB)  ?
    Please help me make a perfect photobook 
    Mario

    Since I don't know what "Blurb" is, I'm going to assume that's your printing service somewhere, and that they have provided you with their target printer profile.
    What you describe under current method is absolutely normal, expected behavior.  Adobe RGB simply is a much larger color space than whatever this Blurb profile is.
    If you care to let me know how or where I can get a hold of this Blurb profile, I can in a matter of seconds prepare an illustration of how the two profiles compare to each other.  From where I sit, it would appear you're throwing away a lot of image quality by using Blurb.
    There are two wacky ways of getting around your seeing the out of gamut warnings.  The first is not to soft-proof at all. (Duh!  )  The other one is an unorthodox workflow which works just fine PROVIDED you are aware that the image files as an end product are only good for Blurb and for no other purpose, and that is to set your WORKING COLOR SPACE from the get go to the Blurb profile.  Of course that is not the recommended or even kosher workflow.  It is only a workaround to the deficiencies of this Blurb profile.
    I cannot comment on your "second method" until I know more about this Blurb phenomenon.  If they print on a CMYK press, then they are throwing away a lot of colors, even if you send them images in sRGB.  Nothing you can do about that.
    The one thing I can say is that if the outfit doing the printing is the one that sent you the profile, then they will know how to deal with an sRGB file.  The profile they sent you is just what their printing process uses.  No need to attach a copy of their own profile. 

  • Costco and soft proofing show dull washed out image

    OK, so I am trying to utilize my nearest costco to print some images from lightroom 5. I am getting back dull washed out prints.
    Facts:
    I shoot in RAW in manual mode
    I am using sRGB when I do my post processing
    I export to jpg for printing
    I used the costco LR5 plugin from Alloyphoto to upload to Costco
    I have installed the printer profiles from drycreek for the specific location/printer and have chosen the correct profile as I export
    I made sure that I chose to have Costco NOT autocorrect the color
    Even when I use LR5's soft proofing, I get the same result on my monitor
    I checked the print I got back and it says that they did NOT autocorrect (taken with a grain of salt)
    The machine they are using is a Noritsu QSS-A, so I know my profile is correct
    I have attached a screen shot of what I am seeing.
    Why am I seeing this on my soft proofing as well as my prints?
    How can I solve this and get vibrant prints?
    Any advice would be helpful.
    Message was edited by: moviebuffking

    moviebuffking wrote:
    I have calibrated my monitor as good as I can get without specific hardware. I have 18 years experience calibrating monitors (via optical media and my eyes), so I know that mine is very close.
    It is virtually impossible to "accurately" set the Luminance, Gamma, and Color temperature "by eye." This is most likely the cause of your prints not matching the screen image you see in LR. That being the monitor's Luminance (i.e. Brightness) level is too set to high.
    http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/article_pages/colour_management/prints_too_dark.html
    To see if this could be your problem I downloaded the posted screen shot and cropped out the 'Copy' image, which has your adjustments applied to it. Here are my results:
    Click on image to see full-size
    I needed to apply a full F stop (+1.0 EV) of Exposure correction to achieve a good midtone brightness level for the print image. You'll notice I also added -50 Highlights and +50 Shadows along with +25 Vibrance. I bet the image with my adjustments added looks way too bright on your uncalibrated monitor.
    You have two (2)  issues–Monitor Calibration and LR Basic Panel Control Adjustments
    Monitior Calibration
    I would highly recommend investing in a hardware monitor calibrator such as the X-Rite i1 Display and ColorMunki, or Datacolor Spyder models. If you tell me what make and model monitor you are using I can recommend specific calibrators.
    Temporarily you can try adjusting the monitor "by eye" to get it closer to the desired 120cd/m2 Luminance, 2.2 Gamma, and 6500K Color Temperature using the test patterns at this site:
    http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/
    When the monitors Brightness and Contrast controls have been correctly set the screen image should look much closer to the prints you have recently made with the LR Soft Proof adjustments. So in fact you will be adjusting the monitor to make it look bad with the LR adjustments you applied. The proper monitor settings will make the Lagom test patterns look correct AND should make your bad Costco prints now match the screen image using you original LR settings.
    After changing the monitor's Brightness and Contrast settings try readjusting a few of the  image files you had printed and send them to Costco as check prints. Compare them again to your monitor's screen image. They should be much better!
    LR Basic Panel Tone Control Adjustment
    LR's PV2012 Tone controls can provide much improvement to your raw image Highlight and Shadow detail. Start with all of the Tone controls at their '0' default settings and adjust them from the top-down in the order shown below.
    1. Set Exposure for the midtone brightness ignoring the highlight and shadow areas for now. Setting Exposure about +.5 EV higher than what looks correct for the midtones seems to work best with most images.
    2. Leave Contrast at 0 for now. You’ll adjust this after the first pass.
    3. Adjust Highlights so that blown out areas are recovered and “fine tonal detail” is revealed.
    4. Adjust Shadows to reveal fine detail in dark areas. For most normal images simply setting -Shadows = +Highlights (Example -50 and +50) works very well.
    5. The Whites control sets the white clipping point, which you can see by holding down the ALT key as you move the slider. Adjust it to the point where you see clipping just appear with the ALT key.
    6. The Blacks control sets the black clipping point, which you can see by holding down the ALT key as you move the slider. Adjust it to the point where you see clipping just appear with the ALT key.
    7. Now go back and adjust the Contrast control to establish the best midtone contrast.
    8. Lastly touchup the Exposure control for the best midtone brightness.
    9. If necessary “touch-up” the controls using the same top-down workflow.
    moviebuffking wrote:
    Am I correct in assuming that the soft proof (with a certain profile) is a "preview" of what that print will look like?
    Soft Proof does two things. It shows you what the image's colors will look like in the target color space (i.e. printer profile). You can see what (if any) colors are "out of gamut" by clicking on the small icon in the upper-righthand corner of the Histogram. You can also see if any of the colors fall out of your monitor's gamut by clicking on the small icon in the upper-lefthand corner of the Histogram.
    When you check 'Simulate Paper & Ink' the Soft Proof image's contrast and color saturation are changed to make it look closer to what the "reflective" print image will look like when held next to the monitor for comparison. Many people have difficulty using 'Simulate Paper & Ink' since it requires using precise light levels for viewing the print and a well calibrated monitor.
    In summary my best suggestion is to purchase and use a good hardware monitor calibrator on a scheduled basis to insure you have an "accurate" screen image inside LR and other color managed applications like PS.

  • How to use ICC profiles and soft proofing profiles?

    Hi,
    I got an Epson Stylus Pro 3880 and Epson Hot Press paper which, upon investigation, received great profeesional reviews and, having never printed digitally before, I don't know how to use profiles for soft proofing or printing.
    I don't know where to go in Aperture or what to do. My driver is up to date and I downloaded the paper profile - not sure where it ended up. What's next?
    So far as I know, soft proofing is about calibrating the monitor to the paper - am I correct?
    Thanks guys,
    Raphael

    Raphael,
    A good reply is going to require a full-size keyboard, which I don't have access to just now.  Here are some starter pages:
    http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/soft-proofing.htm
    http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/soft-proofing.shtml (a bit grumpy and out-dated)
    Fwiw, I print to Epson Hot Press using a 3880.  Imho, it's a _great_ printer, and that combination of printer and paper produced state-of-the-art results.  (Not suitable in all cases, but if that is a look you like, the only thing that I've seen that surpasses it is the Epson 9900, and without looking at prints side by side you can not tell them apart.)
    Your profile ended up wherever you have told your browser to save downloaded files.  The Epson site should provide instructions on where to move the file.  Once it is in the right Finder folder, when you next Aperture it should show in your list of profiles.
    Keep in mind, though, that soft-proofing is useless without a well (read: hardware-calibrated) calibrated display.
    HTH,
    --Kirby.
    (Sent from my magic glass.)

  • I use lightroom with the soft proofing feature for my printing. I used to make a copy proof, but all of the sudden something changed, and even if I'm on the copy in the developing mode it prints the original. Also, If i chose a file that was already in li

    I use lightroom with the soft proofing feature for my printing. I used to make a copy proof, but all of the sudden something changed, and even if I'm on the copy in the developing mode it prints the original. Also, If i chose a file that was already in light room to print, even though I have the chosen file up in the developing mode, it will instead print the most recent file that I added to lightroom. If found a way to work around these problems, (check make this the copy in the soft proofing, and copy my settings and delete and reload the old files) but it's a slight hassle and it didn't use to do this. Not sure why it changed. Could I have accidentally changed a setting?

    See
    iOS: Device not recognized in iTunes for Windows
    - I would start with
    Removing and Reinstalling iTunes, QuickTime, and other software components for Windows XP
    or              
    Removing and reinstalling iTunes and other software components for Windows Vista, Windows 7, or Windows 8
    However, after your remove the Apple software components also remove the iCloud Control Panel via Windows Programs and Features app in the Window Control Panel. Then reinstall all the Apple software components
    - Then do the other actions of:
    iOS: Device not recognized in iTunes for Windows
    paying special attention to item #5
    - New cable and different USB port
    - Run this and see if the results help with determine the cause
    iTunes for Windows: Device Sync Tests
    Also see:
    iPod not recognised by windows iTunes
    Troubleshooting issues with iTunes for Windows updates
    - Try on another computer to help determine if computer or iPod problem

  • Why are my soft proofed prints always too dark in the dark areas and why are the colors, especially red, washed out.

    Use a calibrated camera and monitor. Work in PS CC. Have a controlled work room. Soft proof according to Jeff Schewe of the 'Luminous Landscape'. Printing on a new Epson r2880 with a custom profile. Use fresh Epson Luster paper. The problem keeps persisting no matter what I do. Any and all help will be much appreciated.
    Thanks.
    Richard

    Please turn off your auto reply in your emails.  The forums are designed to be used through a web browser while logged in to the forum.  We don't need to see stuff like your "On Sun, Oct 12, 2014 at 10:50 PM, station_two <[email protected]>".  Everybody sees everyone's post.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    Now, did they first send you a target file which you then printed on your particular printer using your intended paper and inks, then snail-mailed the print to them in California in order for them to make your custom printer profile for you, which they then in turn emailed to you?   If that was not the case, you do not have a custom profile at all, but a meaningless stock one.  Even if they used a printer model exactly like yours when they created the profile, it was not done on your particular unit and therefore is not valid.
    On the other hand, if the procedure above was indeed followed correctly, then that custom printer profile is showing you exactly what your images will look like once you print them.
    That's precisely what soft proofing is for, so you can adjust your image while in Proof view.
    Hope this clears it up for you.

  • No paper appears for Soft Proofing in Snow Leopard and R1900 Epson printer...?

    No papers appear for Soft Proofing a photo when using Epson R1900 printer and in Snow Leopard.
    Print driver 6.62 is installed. Soft Profing papers are listed when an image is open in Preview but
    can't print from Preview. None appear when a photo is open in Photoshop. Paper profiles
    are listed in Color Sync Folder in Library but they don't appear for Soft Proofing when in PS.
    How can I get profiles for Soft Proofing? They did appear when my printer was in Tiger & a Power Mac...?

    I can't really tell which drivers you are using right now. It sounds like the best course of action for you is to uninstall all of the Epson printer drivers and reinstall them one at a time. You will need to go into the Library/Caches folder and delete the Epson folder. Also go into the Library/Printers folder and delete the Epson folder. In the PPDs folder, delete the .gz files for your printers, too. If you are using the Gutenprint driver, you will need to uninstall that first. You can download the uninstaller at the following URL:
    http://sourceforge.net/projects/gimp-print/files/Uninstaller%20-%20Mac%20OS%20X% 20ONLY/1.2.6/gutenprint-uninstaller-1.2.6.dmg/download
    Click on the file it downloads and uninstall Gutenprint.
    Once all the drivers have been uninstalled, install the latest drivers for each of your printers one at a time and make sure each works before installing to the next one.
    Hope this helps, Syd

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