Solid State Drive (SSD) Questions for G4 "Sawtooth".

Below are some questions concerning using a Solid State Drive (SSD) in a G4 "Sawtooth".
Would a controller card need to be installed for an SSD to work in this machine?
Would the G4 be able to operate in Classic mode with the SSD?
Would the G4 be able to boot into OS 9 with the SSD?
Should the SSD be used only for booting and applications, with user data stored on another drive that does not use SSD technology (such as an ATA or SATA drive)?
Should only 50% of the drive space be used, in order to ensure optimized performance?
Would the G4 only be able to use the first 128 MB of drive space of an SSD that has a capacity greater than 128 MB? If so, would either of the below cards enable the G4 to read the entire drive?
[http://eshop.macsales.com/item/ACARD/AEC6280M>
[http://eshop.macsales.com/item/ACARD/AEC6880M>
-John

Would a controller card need to be installed for an SSD to work in this machine?
One like this:
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Sonnet%20Technology/TSATA/
Would the G4 be able to operate in Classic mode with the SSD?
Yes.
Would the G4 be able to boot into OS 9 with the SSD?
Depends on the controller card, but with the linked card, it shouldn't be an issue.
Should the SSD be used only for booting and applications, with user data stored on another drive that does not use SSD technology (such as an ATA or SATA drive)?
Smaller capacity drives will limit file storage, and keeping OS and applications separate always improves performance, regardless of the drive type.
http://www.jcsenterprises.com/Japamacs_Page/Blog/00E03B83-1ADA-406E-A940-396D39F 598EA.html
Should only 50% of the drive space be used, in order to ensure optimized performance?
SSD's can be filled further, but should maintain 20GB or more for virtual memory.
Would the G4 only be able to use the first 128 MB of drive space of an SSD that has a capacity greater than 128 MB?
A controller card removes that limit.
If so, would either of the below cards enable the G4 to read the entire drive?
Those controllers will work for and allow use of large capacity ATA drives.

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Apologies. I probably should have checked the link I sent you. I narrowed it down to 3 choices (Direct links below)
http://www.crucial.com/store/partspecs.aspx?IMODULE=CT512M4SSD2
http://www.crucial.com/store/partspecs.aspx?IMODULE=CT512M4SSD2BAA
http://www.crucial.com/store/partspecs.aspx?IMODULE=CT512M4SSD2CCA
I didn't see anything about a transfer kit (or external drive dock) from your original post, or anything 3.5 inch adapter bracket. So your last post helps clarify things.
I'm assuming because I don't have an external drive dock, I should just go with the transfer kit, RIght?
At this point, due to the level of complexity, I'm thinking it may be easier to just take it in to the apple store and have them do it.
Do you know if they do this?
I'm sure if they do, they charge a premium, but even if its only $100 + cost of the drive, it would be worth it, not to have to deal with it myself.
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Can I use a solid state drive (SSD) with a G4 1 GHz powerbook? If so, how do I do it?

Hi:
Can I use a solid state drive (SSD) with a G4 1 GHz powerbook? If so, how do I do it? Thanks.
fromx001

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Solid State Drive prices are going southwards, and I am tempted to explore the possibility of upgrading the existing internal hard drive with a solid sate one (as and when 128 GB SSD become available) in my T61.
My questions are:
1. Is it possible to upgrade to these devices?
2. Would there be any gain in battery life? How much is it likely?
3. Would there be any performance gain?
4. What are the pitfalls?
Sushil
Sushil
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Solid state drives have yet to become a worthwhile venture as their use in high end computing has not yet been proven. One of the biggest problems with SSD's is the fact that they cannot come to par with traditional drives in terms of random write speeds. Most people take a performance hit with these types of drives except for the exception of one company, which has gotten speeds up to traditional drive speeds.
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Message Edited by singularity2006 on 02-19-2008 03:48 PM
T61_Wide | Model No. 7662 - CTO
Core 2 Duo T7250 | 2GB OCZ DDR2-800
82566MM Gigabit | 4965AGN Centrino Pro

Solid state drive= wrong choice for the newmacbookpro 2010?

Hi
i've been exchanging on the logic pro forum about the ssd vs the hdd serial to configure a macbook pro for logic.
I would love to hear your point of view or experience about that .
also since it's the apple forum i hope there should be some advice from technician from apple.
since from logic pro forum i had the point of view of logic pro certified level 1 and 2
here is the links :
http://www.logicprohelp.com/viewtopic.php?t=57664
http://www.logicprohelp.com/viewtopic.php?t=55058&highlight=solid+state
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june

but why is it bad to record internally today
I didn't say it was "bad" as such, I said I'd only do it when necessary (and I do) but I'd generally still record to external drives where possible.
imagine you're having a 500 GB internally you can still back up on a other drive after.
is there any consequence about that kind of configuration?
The thing is, the internal drive is the system drive, so it has all kinds of drive activity going on in addition to audio - swap file reading and writing, loading apps, utilities, logging functions and many more.
i heard about the lifetime too but more from some experience from 2009 but i don't know what
happen with the new model if they upgrade their ssd in anyway?
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Satellite Pro S300 EZ1514 - Cannot initialize Solid State Drive (SSD)

I have a Satellite Pro S300 EZ1514.
Recently I purchased a SATA II Cavalry 64GB SSD to replace the current hard drive. First I tried to install XP with SATA drivers streamlined in.
The install process recognized the SSD and did the initial file copy to it, but when it restarted to continue the install process the system would not boot from the drive.
Then I tried installing Vista Business 64 from the recovery disk that came with the laptop.
After initiating the recovery disk, the install process said the hard drive was not Initialized and to click OK to initialize now.
After clicking OK to initialize the system restarted only to end up on the same screen telling me to initialize the hard drive.
Then I tried to initialize the drive manually off of my desktop.
Plugged it into my desktop, initialized it and formatted it to NTFS. Plugged it back into the laptop to try Vista recovery again. And yet again the same screen shows up. Plugged the SSD back into the desktop only to find that the drive was no longer initialized and had to be initialized again.
Then I gave up and installed the SSD to my desktop as primary boot and it installed perfectly fine with XP. For testing purposes I then put the ssd with the pre-installed XP back into the laptop to see what happens. To my dismay the laptop would not boot and on top of that when I put the SSD back into the desktop only to find that the drive was no longer initialized and I had to reinstall XP again.
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Anyone else have this problem or a solution?
I would still like to put the SSD into my laptop for power saving.

Im using AHCI mode, but for testing I tried both and neither one worked. My bios is already up to the latest version and unfortunately the Cavalry site does not have any firmware updates yet. Again I don't think the drive is bad cuz it works perfectly fine on a desktop that had the same intel chip set and SATA controller. I think it's the custom boot agent that Toshiba uses at boot. Anyone know how to disable that agent and the intel boot agent as well? I read somewhere that the agents are not needed for the boot process and that in some cases they do cause issues like mine.
Message was edited by: RanChanGT

Toshiba Q Series HDTS225XZSTA 256GB SATA III Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)

Hello everyone,
New here and was trying to find the link to download the free NTI clone software to clone my old mechanical drive to my new SSD. Could you please post the link here.
Thanks

These should help.
   How to install and use your Toshiba SSD PC Upgrade kit.
   TOSHIBA Solid-State Drive PC Upgrade Kit installation video
   Toshiba Solid-State Drive PC Upgrade Kit User's Manual
download the free NTI clone software
The NTI Echo program is on the CD that comes with your kit.
It is also available from NTI here (NTI Echo 3 for Toshiba),
NTI Echo is a smart cloning software for your Toshiba SSD. The software enables you to easily make a copy of, or migrate from, your computer's original drive (HDD) to your new Toshiba SSD. By your purchase of Toshiba SSD, this software, with an MSRP value of $29.99, is FREE.
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Hello!!
I'm looking at removing the optical drive (recently deceased) from my MacBook Pro as I rarely use it and can use my friend's external one for the rare occasions I'd need it, and replacing it with a second hard drive. I've heard that this port can't reliably handle 6Gbps speeds so I'm going to put my 1TB mechanical drive in place of the optical drive and put a 64GB solid state in as the "main" drive.
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My first question, is what folders do I need to copy onto that SSD? I'll be using Carbon Copy Cloner to do this task. Do I have to select every folder on the source drive and just unticking any media and data that I'm going to keep on the mechanical 1TB?
When I have the two drives installed, where will my 1TB data appear? Will it still show up in Finder as it does with a single drive, or will appear as another storage device as if it were external? If it's as another device, can I make OS X make it look like everything is on the same drive?
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Solid state drives have yet to become a worthwhile venture as their use in high end computing has not yet been proven. One of the biggest problems with SSD's is the fact that they cannot come to par with traditional drives in terms of random write speeds. Most people take a performance hit with these types of drives except for the exception of one company, which has gotten speeds up to traditional drive speeds.
However, sequential read and write speeds are marginally faster than traditional drives, which gives u a boost on boot, which is noticably faster. For most business users, the upgrade to an SSD will not yield any tangible results except when transferring bulk files back and forth, at which point one would notice a significant performance hit. Regarding battery life, the first time I used a SSD, it didn't help with battery life at all that was noticable. However, it was well worth the upgrade as it made the laptop literally silent and cool. It's surprising how much sound hard drives make these days ....
My two cents is that the SSD is really an expensive looks-only aesthetic mod but in terms of CG heavy users - not worth it yet unless you can run it in RAID 0 or 5 with 4+ drives, bringing performance quite up to par. At that point, a desktop machine running RAM drives from Gigabyte might even be better....
Message Edited by singularity2006 on 02-19-2008 03:48 PM
T61_Wide | Model No. 7662 - CTO
Core 2 Duo T7250 | 2GB OCZ DDR2-800
82566MM Gigabit | 4965AGN Centrino Pro

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This question was solved.
View Solution.

Hi,
What you are seeing is the generation 2 SATA HD attached to port 0 and the generation 1 SATA optical drive attached to port 1.
The HM55 chipset is rated for SATA II.
If you are going to buy a SSD, then look at the prices differences between SATA II and SATA III for the size that fit your pocketbook. I did some benchmarking of SATA III devices on SATA II ports and only noticed about a 6-10% improvement compared to SATA II or SATA II. Your mileage may vary.
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Which SSD (Solid State Drive) is good for my 2011 MacBook Pro?

Okay I am looking for a good ssd for my macbook pro 2011 between the 150$ and 250$ price range. Which company and price would you guys reccomend?

None, at that price it would be so small as to be practically worthless.
You need about 500 GB to future proof and grow into, and those run about $1200-$1500
SSD's really don't offer that much more performance, it still takes the computer 20 seconds to boot and programs still have to set themselves up so. So although the computer and programs launch a bit faster, it's not instant.
Then to really take advantage of SSD speed, you need to have to have a large amount of files to transfer constantly, to another SSD (or else the slow hard drive slows everything down)
So if you have 500GB to transfer to another 500GB SSD, then that would take about 30 minutes compared to a hour if you had a hard drive instead.
And if you transfer a large amount of data often with a SSD, it wears it out prematurely. SSD's don't even have secure erase ability because allowing that would prematurely wear it out.
So the only thing SSD's are good for are OS boot and program only drives, where little changes, place one's user files on a external 7,200 RPM drive with more space and can handle a large amount of writes and rewrites.
Unfortuntly in a MacBook Pro you have only one space for a drive, you could use a kit to remove the Superdrive and replace it with the hard drive when you add the SSD. Problem with that is you can't boot from any OS X or Windows install disks that way.
So there you have it, SSD is crap.
But if you want to go the SSD + Hard drive with kit route, see Bmer (Dave Merten) who runs Mac Owners Support Group. he will walk you through it all.
And the fastest SSD's can be found on this chart
http://www.harddrivebenchmark.net/high_end_drives.html
https://discussions.apple.com/message/16276201#16276201

W510 Solid State Drive (SSD) Gets Stuck Causing BSoD. Why?

Hey guys, this has been a problem for a while now, and it is really mind boggling ... I have a Lenovo ThinkPad W510 laptop with a 256GB Crucial M4 SSD drive. Ever so randomly the drive just hangs, the LED light that the drive is trying to load something stays "ON" for up to 5 minutes or so before it finally goes into a Blue Screen of Death (BSoD). Once it goes into BSoD the laptop reboots and it gets stuck on the ThinkPad motherboard logo, eventually it will display "ERROR 2100: HDD0 (Hard Disk Drive) initialization error (X)" Where X is usually 1 or 2, sometimes 3 but rarely. It will not function again until I physically turn it off and back on using the power button.
A little bit of background about the problem, this is my 3rd Crucial 256GB M4 SSD, Crucial has been very helpful and they went as far as replacing the drive twice, i am starting to highly doubt its a drive issue, I think it could be something from the laptop itself. To be more clear, my laptop has also been serviced back in March (Motherboard was swapped as well as keyboard), parts failure. It was all done in very timely manner and everything was OK after the swap.
A representative from Crucial told me that this is a classical problem with the SATA controller driver handling TRIM, he said the drive is getting stuck in an infinite TRIM state which causes the BSoD, after that the drive goes into some sort of a "panic" mode to protect itself and doesn't function again until a full power cycle. (thus the need to turn off and then on the laptop) he also added it could be fixed by installing the correct SATA controller driver.
I have tried to use the default windows SATA controller driver, and I have tried to use the Intel one too, and it seems to happen less often with the windows drivers, but overall, it happens at least once a day. It is really frustrating and I am not able to get anywhere with it.
Any help or advice is highly appreciated. I am considering getting rid of the Crucial SSD altogether and just using Intel SSD instead, but I am really doubtful that it is the SSD's fault especially that its the 3rd one I use. I also know a couple of friends who own ThinkPads with Crucial M4 SSD inside them, and they seem to be working very well for them.
Thanks in advance,
Al.

Hi again,
Ok so I have applied the fix you have mentioned above, and it did improve (lower) the frequency of the problem happening. It really improved a lot significantly when I uninstalled the Intel drivers and used the Windows 7 built in SATA controller drivers.
However, ... it still happens ... less frequent, but it still takes place, my SSD still gets stuck at least once in 3 days now, or once in 2 days (after severe testing) and the same scenario happens. I am really stuck at this point, and not sure which direction to take.
Any help would really be appreciated, if you have / know any method to debug the BSoD's I get and a way to locate the source of the problem I am willing to go through it 1 by 1 and solve this problem before deciding to finally just giving up on the drive altogether.
Sincerely,
Al.

Can I install a Solid State Drive (SSD) on a P6510f

I have a HP p6510f computer. I need to know if I can purchase a 120 gig SSD drive and use it as my PRIMARY drive and use the 750 gig as a slave. I've read a few links about changing the BIOS setting but have not seen a solution.
I do not want to go out and buy one if it does not work. I currently have 16 gigs of ram and upgrade the 250 watt power supply to a 500 watt power supply.
I want to do some video editing (already changed the video card to an ATI 6850).
What is the best way to speed up my hard drive for video editing?

Hi:
You should be able to, as long as you get one that comes with an 3.5" adapter to connect to the drive bay.
Below is the link to the service manual. It appears that there are two drive bays in the cage. Just ensure you have another SATA power lead.
http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c01859455.pdf
As far as configuring, check to see that the storage controller can be set to AHCI.
If it can't, then set it to RAID.
I have no idea what port you connect the 750 GB drive to, looking at the motherboard diagram. Look at the port that the boot drive is currently connected to and it should be labeled on the motherboard. Normally SATA 0. You will want to connect the secondary drive to the SATA port with the next corresponding number such as SATA 1.
You will not be able to use recovery disks to install W7 as a 120 GB drive is much smaller than the drive that you are using now, so you will need to install W7 using this method:
Copy the SWSetup folder from your C:\ drive to a portable storage device.
That contains all of the program and driver installation files that came with your PC, and you can explore the sub-folders and reinstall whatever programs you want. All should be there except office 2010 starter.
If you can read the 25 character Microsoft windows 7 product key, you can download plain Windows 7 ISO files to burn to a DVD for the version of windows that came installed on your PC, and that is listed on the Microsoft COA sticker on your PC's case.
Burn the ISO using the Burn ISO option on your DVD burning program and burn at the slowest possible speed your program will allow. This will create a bootable DVD.
Or use the Windows 7 USB/DVD installation tool to compile the ISO file you download from Digital River. Link and instructions below. You need a 4 GB flash drive to use the USB method of compilation.
http://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msstore/html/pbPage.Help_Win7_usbdvd_dwnTool
Use the 25 character product key on the PC to activate the installation.
The key will activate either a 32 or 64 bit installation.
Then go to the PC's support and driver page to install the drivers you need.
Link to the W7 ISO file downloads is below.
http://www.mydigitallife.info/official-windows-7-sp1-iso-from-digital-river/
Paul

Solid State Drive (SSD) Questions for G4 "Sawtooth".

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