SONY BM10 Power consumption - working current (for outdoor use)

Does anybody know what is the max power consumption in watts or miliwatts and the max working current in mA of the sony bm10 bluetooth receiver.Is it possible to power it with a rechargeable battery pack for outdoor use (no AC outlet) and if so, how many mAh should the battery pack be in order for the bm10 to work for 4 - 5 hours? As i am ignorant about these issues i would really appreciate any help.
Thank you all in advance
Nikos

You should contact Sony Xperia Care
http://www.sonymobile.com/gb/support/contact-us/
"I'd rather be hated for who I am, than loved for who I am not." Kurt Cobain (1967-1994)

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Low Power Consumption Thumb Drives (For Aluminum Keyboards)

Like most folks without an iMac (I have a MacPro), I'd like to plug a thumb drive into the side of the keyboard. But with most of the drives I have I get the "Low Power Notice".
However, when I plug in an older SanDisk Cruzer Titanium, it works great. The drag is it's only 512MB.
Does anyone know of lower power consumption thumb drives that will work with the aluminum keyboards?
Thanks!

OK, are you plugging your keyboard directly into your MacBook Pro with the notebook plugged in or running on battery? It seems like the keyboard is not receiving enough power or is defective so you just need to narrow down where the issue is.
My guess is the keyboard is not getting enough power so it in turn cannot power external devices. You might try taking it into an Apple store and speaking to a Genius. If you can't try another keyboard and see how that performs, if you get the same issue then it's not the keyboard it is probably the amount of power being supplied to it.

Monitor power consumption on non POE device using LMS 4.1 ?

How do i monitor power consumption of our endpoint device such as IBM server, UCS server, PC , etc which isn't powered by POE ?

I'm way to lazy to read all this stuff (that's my nature) but I tried a few things with an IP phone and an access point because a customer was interested.
TAC said to forget about the access point, LMS will only manage the IP phone.
Do you see these endpoint devices in LMS anywhere? I asume you managed to get the agent software and put them on these devices.
In theory they should then get 'discovered' as endpoints. Not sure how LMS would be able to do that though. Unless the endpoint agent knows about LMS and starts talking I don't see how it could work.
Anyway, the theory is that in LMS you have a group of endpoints in an endpoint group. Then you should be able to configure endpoint attributes.... , and then you should be able to create a policy and apply it to that group. But I think the policies you can create in LMS now, are for IP phones only.
You should also be able the generate power reports on an endpoint group. Provided you are able to discover these endpoints.
Do let us know how you are getting on with this though. Energywise is interesting but the current implementation in LMS may be a bit too minimalistic. (please prove me wrong)
Cheers,
Michel

Can airport express work through walls for outdoor use?

I am looking to add outdoor speakers and want to know if airport express will work through my exterior walls. The speakers would be about 15 feet away from the indoor outlet.

The AiPort Express will supply a wired audio feed from the analog/digital jack on the device to your speakers, so you will need to plan on running speaker cable from your speakers/amp to the location of the AirPort Express.
Suggest that you take your laptop to the proposed location for the AirPort Express and log on to the Internet to see how your connection performs. If everything seems to be OK, you should not have difficulty receiving a good signal for AirTunes.
If you do not get good results during your test, then you will need to move the AirPort Express closer to your "main" router in order to get a better signal for AirTune streaming. That will of course, mean a longer speaker cable.

IPhone case for outdoor use?

Hi all-
I have an iPhone 3GS and I use it quite a bit for geocaching in all weather, in all conditions. I'm looking for a case that would protect it from the elements like snow and rain, dirt, etc., and preferably be able to be used with gloves on. This last request is not a deal-breaker, just a really-nice-to-have. I don't need it to be absolutely waterproof (I'm not going scuba diving with it, after all), but I'd definitely like to be able to take it out in a rain or snow storm without fear that it's going to be ruined.
Thanks for any info,
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The Otterbox Defender is an awesome case - its not completely waterproof but highly water resistant, as well as incredibly shock proof. I'm an avid camper/kayaker/mountain biker, and my iphone stays safe in this case. (Note: it's not waterproof, so I still use a dry bag or pelican box when kayaking.)
http://www.otterbox.com/iphone-cases/iphone-3g-3gs-cases/iphone-3g-3gs-defender- case/
Highly recommend this one. Super durable and protective case.

How is iPad for outdoor use?

The sun glare, and also how easy or hard it is to keep clean. The iPad I've played with looks like it would fit best for library/office/ living room/bedroom usage and in the evening. In public it's a little awkward holding it in front of your face with both hands, and flat on a table it's liable to pick up dust and debris on a park table/coffee shop/restaraunt/bar type of setting. I'm asking this because it seems to me that the main reason I'd get one is to have something a little easier than a laptop to throw under my arm or slip in a bag to take to a place where I might need it. If I know I need something, I'd bring the laptop.

The only screens that do well in bright sunlight are eInk screens. Screens like iPads, iPhones and laptops have do not do well in bright sunlight. It also rains outside.
I don't know why you'd need to hold an iPad up in front of your face but I agree, it might get tiring. I take mine regularly to coffee shops and restaurants. I brush the table off first. I don't generally lay it flat though as that would be hard to read. I usually rest the edge on the table and prop it up or hold it up, dependint on what's available. I don't take it to bars.
Generally, I find my iPad to be a great portable option. It fits in my messenger bag, goes everywhere with me.

Power Consumption Revisited

I was reading an article on tomshardware.com the other day in which they described a process by which they were able to measure the power consumption of various video cards using a simple device that plugs into a standard wall socket and then displays the number of watts the currently plugged in device is using. In light of the ever-increasing PSU recommendations that tend to show up here (I recall seeing one poster recommend "a PSU with 24 or more amps on the +12V rail for anything other than a barebones system"), I decided that it might be beneficial to these forums if I did a little empirical study of my own. So anyways, I shelled out ~$30 for the device shown here:
http://www.supermediastore.com/kilwateldet1.html
...and ran some tests of my own. The results:
Preliminary Testing -
To verify that my power meter would give reasonably accurate readings, I first hooked it up to a 3-way lamp with a 50/100/150 watt bulb installed. The readings returned for the 50/100/150 watt settings (respectively) were 44/94/142, so it would seem like my power meter is at least reasonably accurate. Some other stuff I measured just for the hell of it...my speakers use 3 watts of power in stadby mode, and 30 watts when active (haven't yet tested when active and playing at full volume), and my monitor uses about 70 watts when on, and about 2 watts in standby mode.
Results -
Satisfied that I had not just wasted my money on an inaccurate power meter, I then went and hooked it up to my PC (the one described in my sig) and measured the power consumption under a variety of circumstances. It is important to note that these readings reflect the total amount of power drain being applied to the wall socket, not the amount of power that is actually being demanded by the system. This is because no PSU is 100% efficient (a good one will be maybe 80% efficient, if even that much), so the amount of power that is actually needed by the system is actually about (at least)20% *less* than the recorded values. Anyways:
During startup, the power usage spikes very briefly at 197 watts, then averages 152 watts over the rest of the boot cycle.
The system uses 134 watts of power when idling.
Under full CPU load, the system uses 168 watts.
Running 3d Mark 2001 the power usage is 169 watts.
Playing Far Cry (high detail settings, 1024x768x32), the power usage is again 169 watts.
Conclusions -
So, let's now assume a worst-case scenario, in which the extra 34 watts recorded during full CPU load came entirely from extra CPU power drain (a reasonable assumption), and in which the extra 35 watts recorded during 3d Mark and Far Cry came entirely from extra video card load (a much less reasonable assumption), and in which we have a PSU that is 90% efficient (greater efficiency means that the system would actually have to demand *more* power in order to get the total power drain up that high). In this case we see that if an application were developed that fully taxed the video card and CPU continuously, the total power drain would be 134 + 34 + 35 = 203 watts (which actually correlates rather nicely with the 197 watt spike observed during the boot cycle), meaning that the system is demanding about 183 watts from our unrealistically efficient PSU (note that with the PSU efficiency set to a more realistic 75%, the system would only be demanding a mere 153 watts of juice at full CPU and video card load).
Admittedly, the video card in my system is relatively weak, so let us again take the worst case scenario and assume that if I were to be using a 6800 Ultra, the total power drain would be 100 watts greater (this is above what the actual difference should be given the results posted on tomshardware.com regarding the power use of the 6800 Ultra), so our video card now consumes an astounding 135 watts of power, and our total power drain (in our unrealistic situation where we have some application which is capable of 100% CPU and video card utilization for a sustained length of time) is now 303 watts. With our unrealistic 90% efficient PSU, it would mean that the system is demanding about 273 watts from the PSU (about 228 watts with a 75% efficient PSU).
Note that aside from the weak video card, I have a fairly robust system (which also happens to be slightly overclocked), with 4 HDD's (two of which are WD Raptors), 2 optical drives, several PCI devices, and two large 120mm case fans, and yet the power demands of this system, even in an unrealisticly demanding situation, are *well* within the ability of a quality 380W (or even 300W) PSU to deliver. In this case even if all the power happened to be being sucked off of the +12V rail (which is not the case), any PSU with 18 amps at +12V could still handle it. Furthermore, even if I were to add a needlessly power-hungry video card into the mix, the power demands are *still* safely within what any decent 380W PSU should be capable of (and even what a quality 300W PSU should be capable of, although this may be pushing it a little, though it should always be noted that the numbers indicate a hypothetical worst-case power drain that should be beyond the maximum drain possible in any real-world situation).
So, we can therefore conclude that the power demands of a reasonably robust Athlon64 based system are not astronomical by any means, and that they do not justify a minimum recommendation of a 465W PSU with 24+ amps on the +12V rail for any system which is not "barebones," and that there is no observational evidence to support the idea that a PSU with 18 or fewer amps at +12V is categorically inadequate for use in an Athlon64 based system.
...anyways, I guess that's all, I hope you found this interesting, or at least informative. I'm off to see what else I can do with my power meter thingy...

Really? Do you have measured data which clearly supports your claims, or are you just holding up an opinion as a matter of fact?
My point was, my measured results show that the total power demand of an Athlon64 based system across *all* of the rails is fairly low, even at 100% system load. So, let's recalculate things assuming a 75% efficient PSU, with 75% of all load being at + 12V (which is still probably higher than the actual value), and let's leave the hypothetical 6800U inside of my system. We get .75 * 303 = 227 watts in total that the system is demanding. Of these 227 watts, the system is demanding .75 * 227 = 170 watts over the +12V rail. 170 watts / 12V gives us a total demand of 14.2 amps on the +12V rail. Note that this is with the hypothetically demanding 6800U card installed and is still likely to be at least a couple amps higher than what a *real* system would ever use, and any *quality* PSU capable of 18 amps at +12V should still be perfectly adequate for use in the system.
Furthermore, PSU efficiency dropping to 60% in real world situations supports my results, as it means that the actual system was demanding substantially *less* power than the system in my hypothetical example, making things even *easier* for the PSU. Re-running the above equation with a 60% efficient PSU and 75% of all power demand coming from the +12V rail, we see that the system is only asking for 11.4 amps at +12V at full load with a 6800U installed (and also at full load).
If you want to disagree with my results, that's fine, but don't expect me to take your argument as credible unless you have some actual, measurable data to back up your claims. Saying "this is the way things *really* work because I say so" doesn't cut it, so until you want to break out a multimeter and measure the amps your PSU delivers to the MB on the +12V rail at boot, idle, load, and gaming and then report your results and discuss whether or not they are consistent with your "amps are what counts" hypothesis, I hold my results and conclusions up as being valid, and as soon as I see any measured results which contradict mine, I will gladly stfu about PSU recommendations being needlessly high.

MacBook Power Consumption

We operate tens of macbooks at our campus for student loans. We are trying to cut on the power consumption of the loans operation. I am interested to know how much power does the power brick consume when:
a) nothing is connected to the MagSafe jack.
b) the macbook is fully charged and the LED is lit green.
Please don't guess or think! give me a firm answer if you know. I appreciate that!

I pulled out my 1940s era General Electric Wattmeter. This is a two-coil instrument that measures Vrms * Irms * cos( phase angle) = actual Watts. This type of meter does not measure reactive power that does not deliver energy to the load but circulates in the system. Reactive power is a concern because the out-of-phase current of reactive power does cause energy loss (I squared R loss) by heating the wires carrying the current.
Power brick energized, but not attached to computer - unmeasurable.
Power brick energized, attached to computer, green LED on - about 0.7 Watt.
Power brick energized, attached to computer, OSX booted, but idle - 8 to 10 Watts.
Power brick energized, attached to computer, screen saver running - 8 - 12.5 Watts.
Power brick energized, attached to computer, 5th Element DVD playing - 12.5 -15 Watts.
Power brick energized, attached to computer, Grapher, contours.gcx - 18.5 - 20.5 Watts.
Once in a while, I could get the MacBook to peak at about 25 Watts (averaged by the mechanical dynamics of my meter) of power consumption. The initial plug-in of the power pack to the socket also consumes several amps for a split second - too hard to measure accurately with my crude equipment. There's also a little audible crack! as the prong touches the outlet, so it is obviously a pretty large momentary in-rush of current.
When the power brick is unplugged, the Irms current draw is about 22 mA according to my Fluke 8060A. Presumably that's almost all reactive at close to -90 degrees phase angle relative to the voltage. Switch mode power packs like the MacBook's tend to be capacitive loads. That's about 2.64 VARs of reactive power.
When the MacBook is idling at about 9.5 Watts of real power consumption, the current draw is about 245 mA. The real power corresponds to about 70 mA of in phase current. This gives the surprising result of about 234 mA of lagging reactive current.
In terms of what real-world thing can you do? For 10 to 100 MacBooks, I don't belive it is worthwhile to do anything. Probably remediating the power supply to reduce the reactive current load would be good thing. At industrial scales, factories worry about current phase angle a lot. Power providers bill for reactive current they have to generate, otherwise they would lose revenue by heating their transmission lines, but the customer gets no energy delivered to the manufacturing process by the out-of-phase reactive current.
Probably, the energy consumed and eventual environmental waste generated by remediating 10-100 power supplies, not to mention the engineering hours required, would not offset the power that would be saved over the useful life of the MacBook.
On the other hand, grumbling at Apple to contract with the manufacturer for a greener design for the power pack for the many thousands of users would be a good thing on which to expend a little energy.
PS: just to be sure my Wattmeter is giving reasonable results, I plugged in a "60 Watt" bulb that's been used for about 200 hours. According to the meter, it draws 58 watts.
Bill
Message was edited by: impulse_telecom

Power Consumption in UCS

Hi,
We are running 4 Chassis in our enviroment with firmware 1.4 (3q) and recently we had an issue with one of the PSU (PSU2) in chassis 2 and we got it replaced and after that we are observing that 1 of the PSU in each chassis is showing as "Power Save" (PSU-Details_All_Chassis.JPG) state.
I want to understand that how Power consumptions works in UCS, I have also attached "Power Groups" (Power-Group_Details.jpg) snap shot for the reference.
Want to understand what is "unbounded" & "cap-ok". When will "power save" state PSU will be ON state and does it will go again in "power save" state.
Thanks,
Amit Vyas

Amit,
Again Jeremy is correct. given your illustration grid is the way to go.
The best way to figure out your power requirements however is to use the following tool:
http://www.cisco.com/assets/cdc_content_elements/flash/dataCenter/cisco_ucs_power_calculator/
To answer your question however about the N+1 I have included an explanation below.
Also instituting power capping at the chassis level requires the following:
IOM, CIMC, and BIOS version 1.4 or higher
2 PSUs
A minimum of 3788 AC watts should be set for each chassis. This converts to 3400 watts of DC power, which is the minimum amount of power required to power a fully-populated chassis.
This means that after 1.4 release the minimum with power capping is 2 PSUs. For example previous to 1.4 release a system that was set for N+1 (1+1 for example) would need to have 3 PSUs N+1 (2+1) in releas 1.4 and greater. This is because of the power groups minimum requirement.
If the power is required the +1 should be made available to meet the redundancy requirements. If it is not needed it is turned off / power save.
Please let me know if this helps.

AirPlay speakers for outdoors

I'm looking for a set of AirPlay-compatible speakers for use outdoors on my patio. I'd like to have them work *without* an AirPort Express, i.e., something like the the B&W Zeppelin Air or the iHome iW1, but for outdoor use.
Any suggestions?

Since your TV is not an AirPlay server, it will not be able to use AirPlay to send audio to an AirPlay (Apple TV, AirPort Express Base Sation, or any other AirPlay-ready) device. Your Apple TV won't work either as it can only receive audio via AirPlay to be played back through either a TV or audio receiver.
At this point in time, I'm not aware of any manufacturer that offers something that you are looking for.

PowerMac G5 Quad Power Consumption

Hello
I purchased a brand new Apple PowerMac from the online store.
Quad PowerMac G5
250GB HDD
1GB RAM
Standard VGA Card - GeForce 6600
Can anyone tell the exact power consumption when idle and maximum use.
Many thanks.
Haresh Kainth

Unfortunately, that document only addresses idle
power consumption, which is of limited use. You might
be able to estimate monthly energy cost from this, if
the computer is mostly idle, but you can't tell how
big a UPS to buy.
I think this is the link tele_player is referring to.
http://www.apple.com/environment/resources/calculator.html
-Bmer
Mac Owners Support Group
Join Us @ MacOSG.com
 An Apple User Group 
MacOSG Podcast >>

Im considering Apple TV, but have a major question onn usefulness for my uses.

Hi all,
I was taking a serious look at Apple TV, but my goal is to purchase seasons of television shows which I see you can do in Itunes.
My goal is to purchase not rent, but If Iunderstand the new version of Apple TV right it has no HD for storage. Does it store your purchases on a cloud now, or is it more or less strictly a rental only sort of device?
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AtomikApple wrote:
I thought as much but wasn't aware of the streaming, still works well for my uses.. Thanks!
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To be honest, I never quite trusted the 'reverse sync' of purchases to iTunes after my AppleTv1 content inadvertently wiped itself once.
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I have actually sent feedback asking them to reinstate purchasing by allowing you to browse content and purchase but for the actual purchase to download directly to iTunes if running or to selected download library next time it's running - I'm sure this could be accomplished if they wanted to and would boost sales.
AC

Is ADF right choice for my use case ?

Hi All
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ADF works fine for your use case. You can build components for your Model from web services and expose those components in a Data Control. Then in your ViewController, you can drag items from the Data Control to use on your web pages. Here is a tutorial from OTN:
http://www.oracle.com/technology/obe/obe11jdev/11/wsdc/wsdc.htm
Here is a blog entry about this capability, with links to more information:
http://blogs.oracle.com/shay/2009/09/web_services_with_complex_data.html

Power consumption for 7100?

Hi:
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Thank you

Welcome to the discussions!
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Power Consumption for iMac 20" INTEL DUO CORE

I need to know which is the power consumption for the 20" 2.16 GHz INTEL CORE DUO. I want to buy a UPS for this machine and I could not figure out in any place within the manual where to get that information. It is something that have to be very easy to find but it was not the case for me in this opportunity.
I cannot believe that I have to create a post in order to get this answer!
Kind regards to all and thanks for any clue that any one can give me.
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Welcome to the discussions!
Another vote for APC. I use the XS900 for my first gen G5 iMac and it works very nicely without their PowerChute software. It even comes with the correct USB cable to hook it into your Mac.

SONY BM10 Power consumption - working current (for outdoor use)

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