Sony Mavica Movies

I have imported 100's of mini CD's taken with my Sony Mavica CD400 into iPhoto.
While I'm able to view all of the images I've imported, I'm unable to view the movies (typical file name is MOV0001.MPG)
The error I get in iPhoto is "a necessary data reference could not be resolved"
I found that I am able to play these movies when I open them in Finder, but that doesn't help me watch them in iPhoto
When I open in movie in Finder I see that I can export these movies as Quicktime files into either iTunes or IMovie, and then drag these new movie files back into iPhoto. I have almost 400 movies so I wanted some advice before starting this process.
Is there a better way?
Also, is there any way I can keep the original date with the file rather than the date of the import/export? That would greatly help me organize my iPhoto folders
thanks

Hi Guccigirl:
Welcome t odiscussions!
QT 6.5.2 with imovie 4 and OS 10.3.9 is often suggested here for those using DV tape cameras. In your case, I don't think it will matter.
You do not have a firewire on your camera so you will have to suffer with the slower USB tansfer.
iMovie does not work with muxed MPEG-1 and MPEG-2 clips (and that's what you're trying to do)
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=42996
You'll need:
MPEG Streamclip 1.5.1 (free) and the MPEG-2 Playback Component ($20 from Apple).
http://www.alfanet.it/squared5/mpegstreamclip.html
http://www.apple.com/quicktime/mpeg2/
Once you do that...these are the steps I once copied from a DCR-SR100 user...(I have not done this myself)
To transfer the data to the IMAC:
1- Plug the USB cable, once detected (5s), press HDD on the touch creen panel
2- Go to Finder (on the Mac) then open the videos folder /MP_ROOT/100PNV01/M2U0001.MPG for example
3- Drag the .MPG file to the mac
4- Start Streamclip (see message further up the discussion)
Export using for example .DV format, readable by I-Movie.
5-Import the new file in I-movie
Sue

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I have an old sony Mavica MVC-CD500 is there any way I can download pictures from cd to Lion

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If you use iPhoto, just insert the CD into your optical disc drive, wait for iPhoto to see the disc and open on its own.
iPhoto will load previews of all of your images from the disc.
In the lower right hand corner of iPhoto's application window, click the Import All button and iPhoto will begin downloading the images into iPhoto.
MichelPM
What version of iPhoto are you using?

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I am unable to play any Sony DVD movies on my iMac. Is this anything to do with Sony's copy protection? or just an iMac issue. The movie in question was Hitch, I also tried another sony Movie same problem. DvD screen appears but it will not play the movie.
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Hello and Welcome to Apple Discussions.
I've just tried a Sony disc that states "This DVD is copy-protected" and it plays fine on my iMac G4 with 10.4.10. Do you have an iMac G5 or an Intel iMac? Do other discs play okay?
Also try pressing the Space bar once DVD Player loads to start the disc playing.
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Hi,
I'm using Flash 8 Video Encoder to convert movies to .fla
format to use them on websites. Now trying to do this with movies
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Ferrohead wrote:
> Thanks for the reply.
> I haven't tried this option yet, I've opened the Picture
Motion Browser but I don't see how to convert it to mpeg2.
>
> Can you tell me how to do this?
>
> Thanks again.
I have this option from right click menu - Convert to Mpeg 2
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Best Regards
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"Never play Leap-Frog with a Unicorn."
<urami>
If you want to mail me - DO NOT LAUGH AT MY ADDRESS
</urami>

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Hi -
I think you have a lousy app in Privilege Movies. After I redeem the code and download the movie, (all 1.2 GB of it), it says cannot play, delete it and redownlaod it. Not sure which world you guys live in but we all have download limits and it takes about 3 hours to download a single movie. It isa good thing I got a taste of this when the movies are free. I am never going to buy another sony product again.
Pls believe me, you have nothing that you can do to help me. Just delete this app and help the rest of the users..and if possible pls fire the guy who made this app..

Sorry to hear that you're having problems with the movies.
Hard to say for sure but it sounds like either the file is corrupted during download or when it's stored. I suggest that you try downloading them using another internet connection (i recommend that you use WiFi) and that you try storing it to the internal storage or another SD card.
- Official Sony Xperia Support Staff
If you're new to our forums make sure that you have read our Discussion guidelines.
If you want to get in touch with the local support team for your country please visit our contact page.

I have a mini-CDR containing photos shot with a Sony Mavica camera in 2004. How can I access the photos from my iMac?

Will my iMAC DVD accept mini-CDR's or do I need to convert to standard sized DVD?

Slot loading drives do not accept mini CDs. You either need it transferring to a standard CD or get an external tray-loading CD/DVD drive.

How do I use m2ts movie file format from my old pc with FCP on my mac?

I have recently moved from a PC to a iMac. I have a large number of Sony AVCHD movie files, which were imported to my PC and are in the m2ts file format on my PC. The original files on my Sony camera were deleted so these files are now all I have. Also, for each movie clip on my PC there are 3 files....a very large m2ts file along..... with two very small file....one is a .modd file and the other a .moff file.
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Although I don't use Toast I know lots of people who do and like it for a variety of purposes; for example, many people author in DVDSP and burn disks using Toast. But there are a lot of versions and they have differing features and capability. Do a search in these (or iDVD) forums you'll find plenty of info. Don't know about the other app. Again, if you ask Apple, they may come through with iDVD…they have for others.
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I have been using my Son HDR-HC3 with my PC, Windows XP, and Sony Vegas Movie Studio for over a year without any problems. Recently I upgraded my mac to a new 20" iMac.
Upon importing either video off tape or live video from my camcorder I get periodic errors in the video, macroblocking. This only happens with HDV, not DV.
This happens in iMovie 7.1 but Apple also had be install iMovie 6 HD - same issues in both.
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Welcome to the  Discussion Forums.
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Ironic isn't it.
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It has helped some who have had this problem. Try dragging the QuickTime webplugin folder to the desktop in case you need to put it back and see.

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Hi,
I would take a look at the following:
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Hi, I'm having the same issue with this camcorder: No audio. Under "get info" on one of the clips is says,
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Hi Seth,
Here is a snippet I found on the web
Problem solved iPhoto wouldn't recognize Sony MVC CD30
Although I had searched Apple's Support site, I decided to give it one more shot and I stumbled across a new page entitled "iPhoto: Troubleshooting Camera Connections."
Even though Sony Mavica digital cameras are listed as compatible with iPhoto, the camera has to be set to Picture-Transfer-Protocol (PTP) before you can download. In addition, you will need to open Image Capture in the Applications folder. As soon as these steps were taken, the camera was recognized by iPhoto and all photos downloaded into Image Capture.
iPhoto: How to Change the "Open Automatically" Preference
Once you download the photos from the camera into your Pictures folder with Image Capture, put them in a labeled folder and import that folder into iPhoto.

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is there any one can give me some advice?
i can't find the way to shutter down in the extension "setting" menus.
hopes for your /everyons reply.
thank you all

I suppose you are talking about Sony's Movie Maker App?
The movies made by Sony's Movie Maker just creates an example slideshow/short video and it doesn't really use your storage unless you export them.You can't turn off this function unless you either turn off notification for the vids created or uninstall the app itself.
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AlwaysHereToHelp

Loss of quality from iMovie Project to Burned DVD

Hello,
I have read some strings regarding this subject but I'm still left with questions.
I have created a photo collage set to music, in iMovie. It's 12 minutes long, and when I play it in iMovie on my computer, it looks great. All the photos are crystal clear, rich with color, and vibrant in all the right places.
I played the file in Quicktime 10.0 and it looks great.
The info in the Quicktime Inspector is
Format: H.264, 1920x1080, Millions AAC, 2 Channels, 44100 Hz
FPS: 29.97
Data Rate: 20.23 Mbit/s
Current Size: 1549x871
I burned this to a DVD using Toast Titanium (because ever since my iLife '11 upgrade my iDVD hasn't worked past startup. I can't get it to do anything at all.)
Somewhere between the Quicktime movie and the Burned DVD, the movie loses a significant amount of quality. It seems all the colors are washed out. I can see my edits on some of the photos... it looks like crap. To me it looks awful, to others it may not look as bad, but I know the difference. It looks awful.
Can someone please tell me why this is happening and how I can prevent it? All while still using iMovie through this whole process, and Toast for burning?
Thank you so much
YahYah

Hi Ziatron,
The quality workaround I proposed assumes the person starts with a progressive source material. The original poster did as I don't see how you would import true progressive source media and get interlaced artifacts at the end, especially for stills! We are not in the days of the Sony Mavica you know. What you are doing is importing interlaced video and processing it in interlace with a progressive scan workflow. The combing artifacts you saw is from the consumer algorithm that is inherent in iMovie 11. I know iMovie 6HD and FCE or FCP have better de-interlacing algorithms. You can by pass iMovie 11's weakness by treating the interlaced video through a commercial/high end de-interlace software and get better results.
As long as you are working with a progressive source media, then you are not bound by de-interlacing artifacts unless your movie was shot in it. Suffice to say, best de-interlace programs cost money and a lot of computing power. That is not something the majority of computer owners use iMovie possess. I see you have a high end Mac Pro. I also have a high end Quad PC with a high end Nvidia graphics card to utilize its hundreds of CUDA cores for vReveal to eat on. But that's not what the general public of Mac or PC owners have nor what the general public buy during Black Friday or Boxing Day in Canada either. High end Macs or high end Quad PCs go with high end video editing software where the de-interlacing and the encoding and decoding algorithms are much better than the consumer versions.
This is OBVIOUS! Better algorithms will simply slow down any mid-end Macs to mid-end PCs to a low teeny 1-5 fps processing a video clip in H.264 in very very high quality and multiple passes. This is not acceptable to the general public. Which is why, you are also seeing noise artifacts in the workflow too, because you need to first de-interlace the source media and then re-encode to H.264 which obviously adds artifacts to the source before you can use it with iMovie 11, so clearly iMovie 6HD has a clear advantage. This carries over to the final workflow. But most AVCHD material out there is compressed too!
Consumers need to be aware that there is a difference between consumer grade software and commercial grade software. Also, commercial grade software require a hefty computer to do its job reasonably well! People need to understand that just because you own a nice $900 to $1000 camcorder does not mean that your mid-end Mac can deal with it.
Getting quality is so easy. Just spend lots and lots of money on hardware to shave off 15mins to a few hours of video encoding to digital video processing, but at what end because it will never end!
I've seen a few footages floating around on Youtube that looks really good made with iMovie 11. Just keep in mind that there are always tradeoffs for reasonable rendering time vs cost of your computer package.
Message was edited by: Coolmax

How to Cut, Label, Save sports clips (40Hours, 500GB, 1080p AVCHD Source) for creating season highlight video in Premiere Elements 13?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions you can provide to help me.
I have filmed all of my son's basketball games this season and we are heading into the playoffs soon. I would like to find an efficient way to cut, label, and save video clips to create a highlight movie for the team banquet.
All video is AVCHD and saved on hard drive. A few games were recorded with a Sony camcorder 1920x1980i30(*.mt2s), the rest with my Canon DSLR1920x1080p30(*.mov). I will have about 35 or 40 hours of video by the end of the season. Probably around half a terabyte.
I own licenses to the following video editors.
Sony Vegas Movie Studio HD Platinum 11.
Adobe Premiere Elements 13 that I just purchased bundled with Photoshop Elements 13.
I struggled with burning AVCHD disks with the Sony software, so did the Adobe trial and everything worked great so I bought it.
I went through one game and clipped the highlights, but can't figure out how to label them, or export them as individual highlight files. I guess I would be OK doing this all in a single project if I knew that it would work, and if I could find a way to label the clips so that I can arrange them without having to preview the clip every time.
I am open to using other tools if they don't cost too much, free would be awesome since I don't do this professionally.
Thanks!

GreatFun,
Yes, while I couldn't spend much time today at work reviewing the link ATR provided, at a high level I like ATR's approach as well, and it definitely is advantageous for that use case and rendering only the final product. My use case is a bit different. My son's high school webcasts each match which I then pull off their Youtube channel (with their permission, of course) and use their camera angles and their play-by-play guys commentary (again, with permission) to augment my video (which are closer to the action and much better quality than theirs, I must say). The kids get a kick out of hearing the play-by-play guy yell their name when the score or make a great play. So that is why I produce my clips separately. To me it is cleaner and I can store them for later use outside PE or any other project.
Anyway, regarding the actual shooting of the video. I've been doing this for awhile and there are two elements that are a must for any soccer shoot: a good solid tripod with fluid panning ability, and height. Getting above the action (like atop bleachers), for the most part, is an advantage most of the time. That is why professional sports are shot from above. While I do like to take a few minutes of every game to get on the sidelines and film at field level (this adds a bit of variety to the finished product, and you can't beat the ambient sounds you get when the players grunt and groan), you just can't capture the flow of the game from that angle.
The purpose of your video will dictate your composition. Are you trying to always focus on one player (one particular forward, back, midfielder or keeper) and get their every move (for the purpose of say, college recruitment purposes), regardless of where the ball or action is? If so, you'll want to stay tight on them, but not too tight - know where the action is and use the rule of thirds here with your subject player always in the left or right most third. Let the action, in this case, the ball, enter from the opposite third your player is in to allow the viewer to see a glimpse of what led up to your subject being engaged with the action. If your subject is a keeper, that is the easiest position to focus on of all. When filming just a keeper, I like to set my tripod up along the touch line about 30 yards from the goal line (again, elevated if possible), compose the shot using thirds again so as to let the viewer see the passing action as the goal is attacked. Its great to get a clip of the keeper making a save, but it can be much more impressive and entertaining to a viewer to see how it all unfolds and the choices the goalie has to make to be in the right position to make the save.
If your intent is to film the action where the ball is, regardless of the player or team that has the ball (like most professional sports coverage), it is much better to cast a wide composition. As you mention, it is difficult to find that sweet spot between being too far out and missing the intimacy, or being too close in and simply giving the viewer a headache as the shots zip around as you try and follow the ball. I've found the sweet spot for me is to shoot always keeping a quarter of the pitch in view. This allows for tight enough composition to keep the viewer engaged with the action, without having to jerk the shot around so much as to make them throw up. Soccer is quite fast paced at the high school level and there is quite a bit of "switching the field", where a wing will lob the ball completely across the width of the field to the opposite wing. If you are in too tight, you'll have to pan very quickly to the receiving side, and if done a lot, will not make for very entertaining viewing. There are other examples of why you shouldn't be too tight, but you get the idea.
I've probably written too long a post as it is for this forum, but I hope I've given you some things to consider on your next shoot.
Good health to you!

Sony Mavica Movies

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