SSD Choice.

I am wanting to install a 500 GB SSD into my MBP
     Mid 2012
     8 GB RAM (soon to be 16 GB)
     intel i7 2.9 GHz
     ask if you need more specs
I have been looking at the Samsung Evo 500 GB because of it's cost and pretty decent performances and reviews. My only problem is that after reading some I have learned that the reason why it is cheaper is because it used TLC NAND instead of MLC NAND. TLC NAND apparently isn't as durable as MLC NAND (I'm not 100% sure if the nomenclature is correct but that is what I picked up from doing a little digging. Feel free to correct).
I will writing and reading and rewriting a large quantities of files working in Photoshop, after effects and final cut and various other programs.
I just need to know what SSD would be the best option. I don't want to buy one and then have it fail on my because of lower quality. I am looking to the long haul of the drive. Any advice would be helpful.

I have looked into some more about TLC vs MLC NAND and after a little more diging and reading I found this article.
http://us.hardware.info/reviews/4178/10/hardwareinfo-tests-lifespan-of-samsung-s sd-840-250gb-tlc-ssd-updated-with-final-conclusion-final-update-20-6-2013
basically TLC vs MLc shouldn't be the reason why you do or don't buy a SSD TLC NAND doesn't have hardly impact on the life span of the SSD. They avaraged the life span to be around 25 years of use. Hopefully by then I have upgraded.

Similar Messages

SSD choice in MacBook Pro Mid 2010

I have a MacBook Pro Mid 2010 with SATA 2 Interface (3Gb/s) and I would like to replace my HDD with a SSD.
I selected two SSDs as possible candidates for my Mac:
- V4 by Crucial with SATA 2 Interface (3Gb/s), Model CT256V4SSD2
- Samsung 830 Series with SATA 3 Interface (3Gb/s), Model MZ-7PC256B/WW
Does anyone have experiences with those drives and the same model of Mac? Could you provide me some info?
The price doesn't matter but the aspect that is important to me it's the compatibility with my Mac model.
Thanks in advance.

wjosten,
Thanks for your reply.
What about the TRIM? Does OWC SSD have it by default or not?
Finally, do you suggest me the 3G model (Electra) or the 6G one? I think also the latter is compatible with my Mac model (MacBookPro 6,2).
Thank you for your support.

Macbook Pro 13" 2009 and SSD choice?

Hi all,
I am looking to add a SSD drive to the optical drive space on my Macbook Pro 13" 2009(Aug) 2.5Gz. Just wonder what's the most reliable drive for 256gb under $400. I have read many problems with SATA II negotiated speed, and etc. Several forums suggested M4 (installation issue?), and Samsung 830 on the Macbook Pro 2009. Anyone can share their experience and advice?

Go through the steps in this support article:
http://support.apple.com/kb/ts2570
Ciao.

SSD Manufacturer in the latest MBP

Hi all,
Just wondering who the manufacturer behind the SSDs (256GB, 512GB) in the latest MBPs is. I want to check the read/write speed/decay benchmarks before I make a decision.
Thanks,
OA

Thanks! Interesting the SSD is Apple branded.
It's not. The TS stands for Toshiba. (APPLE SSD TS512B ) According to Barefeats, they believe they are Toshiba drives.
DRIVE ROUNDUP: HDD and SSD Choices
http://barefeats.com/mbpp19.html
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What SSD do Apple use in MacBook Pro (Early 2011)

Hi, my MacBook is becoming a little sluggish (3 and half years of solid use) so I'm looking to give it a bit of a facelift, I've upgraded the RAM but I've read that changing from HD to SSD will improve my performance significantly, so what SSD do Apple use that will be suitable for my MacBook or can anyone reccommend anything better?
Also when I do swap to SSD if I do a backup on time machine right before, then install the new SSD, will it allow me to just restore from backup to the new drive?
Thanks

LukeCarberry,
you can use any SATA SSD with a 2.5 inch form factor, up to 9.5 mm tall. Your Early 2011 MacBook Pro would get best performance with a SATA III SSD, with a 6.0 Gb/s burst throughput rate. Popular SSD choices here include various models from Crucial, OWC, and Samsung, but there are certainly more options available.
If your SSD has a capacity no smaller than that of your current HDD, then you should be able to restore a Time Machine backup onto your SSD.

Two hard drives, two operating systems, one MacBook Pro

Dear community,
     I have a MacBook Pro (mid-2010) with Mac OS Lion. I plan on having this computer all through the rest of college (another two and a half years, hopefully) so I want to upgrade it just a bit. What I would like to do is take out my optical drive, install a second hard drive mount, and put an SSD in that spot. Now, this would be pretty simple if it were just Mac OS Lion that I wanted on it, but here's the catch - I'd like to put my copy of Windows 7 on that drive as well. I currently use one hard drive for Mac/Windows 7 using boot camp, so I figured it'd be possible to do this with 2 hard drives.
     Basically I'd like to put the OSes and a few programs on the SSD, and the files/remaining programs on my big HDD. Is this even possible? Any suggestions?
     In summary: Mac OS Lion and Windows 7 + a few Mac/Windows apps on the SSD; Mac OS and Windows data files and programs on the HDD. Can it be done?
Thanks a lot.
-Grant
*Note- here is the hard drive caddy I'm looking at: http://www.amazon.com/Drive-Unibody-MacBook-SuperDrive-Replacement/dp/B0058AH2US /ref=wl_it_dp_o_npd?ie=UTF8&coliid=I1MJCRJMNCU4QQ&colid=1LV4HAU48M27X

grantmcconnaughey wrote:
Dear community,
     I have a MacBook Pro (mid-2010) with Mac OS Lion. I plan on having this computer all through the rest of college (another two and a half years, hopefully) so I want to upgrade it just a bit. What I would like to do is take out my optical drive, install a second hard drive mount, and put an SSD in that spot. Now, this would be pretty simple if it were just Mac OS Lion that I wanted on it, but here's the catch - I'd like to put my copy of Windows 7 on that drive as well. I currently use one hard drive for Mac/Windows 7 using boot camp, so I figured it'd be possible to do this with 2 hard drives.
     Basically I'd like to put the OSes and a few programs on the SSD, and the files/remaining programs on my big HDD. Is this even possible? Any suggestions?
The SSD should be the boot drive in the present hard drive spot for these reasons.
1: You want the SSD as the boot volume for speed of OS X, Windows and applications (must be on boot drive along with one bare bones user, each OS)
2: You want to inflict as little change to the SSD as possible to make it last longer as they can wear out with a lot of use, thus a boot/app drive is ideal for this.
3: Present hard drive becomes the exFAT formatted drive to use for Windows or Mac file storage use in the optical bay caddy.
Problems:
You can't install Windows from a external optical drive, only the internal one.
You also won't be able to boot off a 10.6 install disk just the same.
However you can option boot off 10.6/10.7 previously installed, or cloned (Carbon Copy Cloner), on a external drive.
Windows in Bootcamp is subject to the same problems requiring reinstall like it is on PC's, which to reinstall would require you to install your internal optical drive each time.
You can't make a bootable clone of Windows on a external drive and use it (because of validation issues with the drive Windows is installed on) or use it to restore Bootcamp (there used to be software that did this for Snow Leopard, but it hasn't been updated anymore)
Also if your 2010 MBP doesn't have SATA 6, your going to be using SATA 3 and not the full speed capability of the SSD.
What you might consider doing instead is getting a 1TB 7,200 RPM boot drive, you get storage size to partition and decent speed, without excessive speed which you might not be able to use it all with your hardware.
Another option, if your using Windows for non-hardware presisng issues (3D games, heavy CPU loads) is to use virtual machine software (VMFusion, Parrallels Desktop etc) and run Windows in a window on OS X. This gives the advantage of Windows running as a file, and you can have earlier "snapshots" in case Windows gets hosed like it does sometimes.
Also Bootcamp restricts you to Windows 7, with virtual machine software you can run any Windows version, even cool Linux distros too (install older versions first then upgrade) Plus you don't have to dual boot or worry about file formatting issues, which both is a pain in the butt.
Lion is a pain to reinstall on a new hard drive directly with older hardware (two steps involved), luckily you've got a older machine and can install 10.6.8 first, then upgrade by holding option key and clicking on Purchases, then apps, then files, then bootcamp or virtual machine software, then Windows.
Should make a copy of that 10.6 disk
http://www.walterjessen.com/make-a-bootable-backup-snow-leopard-install-disc/
So anyway, that's a loadful to think about.
What you should do is join the MacOwnersSupportGroup and ask Bmer how best to go about installing the optical drive kit. I've send all these sort of hardware hacks his way as he has done it himself so he knows.
Apple obviously doesn't support such a thing and nearly none here can offer any support in such a thing.
OtherWorld Computing has a kit as well, gives a enclosure for the Superdrive to use as a external optical drive as well. (just can't boot or install Windows with it.)
As always this is all I know and subjective to change, so ask around further and perhaps you'll find more answers, but likely not here.
See this for fast SSD choices
http://www.harddrivebenchmark.net/high_end_drives.html
Good Luck and hope that helps.

2.3 or 2.7 GHz (Primary usage Logic Pro)

Hello everyone!
Have been looking around for this topic but havn't found SO Im posting my thing out here.
I am a long time Mac user with music production as profession and with Logic Pro as my primary program.
I am about to buy myself a new MacBook Pro and have to great choices but when it comes to the details I would be thankful for some guidance.
Choice nr 1 is the latest MacBook Pro 15¨ - Retina Intel QC i7 2,3 Ghz - 16 GB Memory - 512 SSD
Choice nr 2 is probably a little bit older but with the same specifications but with Intel QC i7 2,7 Ghz.
My following question is how big difference is it between 2,3 and 2,7 GHz? As I mentioned - music production and Logic Pro is my primary use with my computer and I know that when it comes to music - RAM-memory is the most important. The price difference is not so big but still enought for me to post this topic and - is there anything else than the GHz that have been improved in this latest MB Pro that matters to me here?
Very thankful for any thoughts or answears here. I will buy one of them and after what I have heard is it very little difference so I am probably going for the Choice nr 1 (since it is the latest) but what do you folks here think?
Cheers!

Memory is not necessarily the lynchpin. I remember tracking 24 channels of 192/24bit audio simultaneously with 512mb of ram, SATA 1 5400RPM HDD with nary a hiccup. Nothing different about audio now, 14 years later. Same bits.
While music processing can be somewhat processor intensive if you use a lot of plug-ins, the difference between 2.7 and 2.3gHz will not be immense. It may be a matter of one or two plugin instances (depending on the plug). A lot of this will depend on how the plug-in is actually written as well as the number of cores on the CPU. This introduces a lot of uncertainty into looking at straight gHz.
Storage will be a factor here. Even at 512gb, you may find yourself cramped for space if you have lots of multitrack audio projects on the go. If you end up using an external thunderbolt drive this will negatively impact your performance (though probably not much, see my opening sentence).
The other factor to consider is the possibility of using external audio processors such as that which is available from Universal Audio and which take some load off your computer's CPU for processing effects. I've been using their UAD-2 PCI card on my Mac Pro and I love it. Great product, great effects.
You can also freeze tracks or commit the effect by doing offline processing which will release your CPU of some tasks.
Perhaps some more information about the exact type of projects you are doing would help. I primarily do multi-track (16 to 32 simultaneous inputs) recording and mixing (highly variable track count at mixing stage), which has very different demands on a system compared to say, someone who is doing multi-track midi sequencing and sampling.
Needless to say, both systems will likely be very good at handling whatever you are throwing at them.

Buying the right Lenovo w530 for CS5 Master Collection; I should be smarter, but time is an issue!?!

Hi Everyone
I'm buying a Lenovo w530 for graphic design and video editing on CS5 Master Collection - the whole package!
I have various solutions for HD setup, but no knowledge of hardware or setup in general for a complete machine where the various parts complement each other in a way that there is no obvious bottleneck coming up to fast.
RAID 0 SETUP ON A LAPTOP VERY IMPORTANT???
I'm following lynda.com for various online lessons as this is not my primary occupation, and one of the instructors stresses the need for a raid 0 setup.
Having to do this means ordering directly from Lenovo in the US, because they need to install another devise in the machine.
I prefer not to as I live in Denmark. It's so much easier dealing with local suppliers, and the possibilities that’s already in the machine. I realize that in desktop systems you'll prefer larger solutions with more drives and faster connections. In the Lenovo I’m limited by different setups.
HARD DRIVE SETUP - SSD or 7200 for OS and then what for working disc???
Do I really need raid 0 on a laptop for working files (small web videos) or will SSD Sata III do?
For OS:
Should I go for a 7200 drive as OS drive and an SSD as secondary drive in the DVD slot via an adapter?
Or should I go for an SSD drive as OS drive, and also as a secondary drive in the DVD slot. (what sizes should they bee)
CPU
Intel Core i7-3820QM 2,7GHz Quad Core (3,7Ghz Turbo)
Ram
16 or 32 mb
Harddisk
500 GB 7200RPM
2GB NVIDIA Quadro K2000M + Intel HD Graphics 4000 (Optimus auto-switch)
CD/DVD
Serial Hard Drive Bay Adapter III with secondary SSD Sata 3 harddisc, could be something from
120 GB SSD Intel 520 Series
160 GB SSD Intel 320 Series
180 GB SSD Intel 520 Series
240 GB SSD Intel 520 Series
480 GB SSD Intel 520 Series
600 GB SSD Intel 320 Series
or
CPU
Intel Core i7-3720QM 2,6GHz
Ram
16 or 32 mb
Harddisk
240GB SSD(odd size but thats what it says)
Videocard
2GB NVIDIA Quadro K2000M + Intel HD Graphics 4000 (Optimus auto-switch)
CD/DVD
Serial Hard Drive Bay Adapter III with secondary SSD Sata 3 harddisc, could be something from
120 GB SSD Intel 520 Series
160 GB SSD Intel 320 Series
180 GB SSD Intel 520 Series
240 GB SSD Intel 520 Series
480 GB SSD Intel 520 Series
600 GB SSD Intel 320 Series
Back up is intended from the usb 3 port to some disc - haven't looked at it yet.
FIRST BOTTLENECK?
I hope my system will recognize the NVIDIA card as a friendly given that’s it’s so much newer than my Master Collection CS5.
I'm curious as to where in this system the first bottleneck will be when I start working.
Processor, RAM, Graphics card, hard disc setup
Can anyone recognize this straight away?
Does anyone know how the Graphic cards it handles effects in PP?
I'll be glad for all help I can get BEFORE 1 of Jan where part of my funding vanishes...
al best and happy holidays to all

I do not own and have never used a W530, however having played with various laptop and desktop setups running CS5 I have the following to offer you:
- Suggest the i7-3720QM over the more expensive and ever so slightly faster i7-3820QM CPU
- Suggest sticking with the K2000M vs. the K1000M with 1/2 the number of cores (you will need to do the ever so common "hack" for Adobe to recognize this GPU; don't worry, this is not a risky step, you simply need to find and delete a text file after installing the software)
- You can go with either a 7200 rpm boot or SSD choice for the OS / programs; the SSD will perform normal PC chores faster, but the performance level of the boot drive will not impact Premiere Pro as much as the additional drive(s) that you have
- Suggest you get a third party solution for adding the optical bay 2nd HD (or SSD); I would choose the 750GB Seagate Momentus to insert into it (NewModeUS, eBay sellers, etc.); this will save you a lot of money and will work just fine.
- In the USA you can request 16GB in 2 sticks so presumably you could expand to 32GB later with minimal cost; do this if you can
- Suggest start with W530 loaded and configured with Adobe and see if it performs fast enough for you. And, if you want more speed, you could add a USB 3.0 (W530 does not support eSATA like the W520 did) external drive to give you a bit more performance.
- Of course big, fast, expensive SSDs would be faster (and smaller) for your optical bay and / or USB 3.0 connected drives, but they are very expensive (per GB) compared with 7200 laptop drives and you most likely will be just fine without it.
I found the link about the guy who purchased a W530 for use on a sailboat, but I see you already found it! (you posted to it).
http://forums.adobe.com/message/4909480
Regards,
Jim

Samsung 840 Pro 128GB VS. Intel 520 120GB

Hi everybody,
I would like to buy a ssd for my laptop, to do some video editing projects on it, in my country I found this 2 ssd, looking around I've found great reviews about each so I really don't know which one to buy, I have a crucial ssd and it's great but sadly the person who sold it to me doesn't have crucial right now, which one do you think will be better for my purpose.
Thanks a lot.

I really like the Samsung 840 Pro 128GB choice for a OS/programs drive for a desktop PC. It sounds REALLY small for a laptop unless you will have a 2nd drive on the laptop as well.
For a single drive laptop the 500GB Samsung 840 (non-pro) is pretty nice and cost effective vs. the 840 pro 512GB model. For the larger SSD sizes the write speed of Samsung's 840 series is not nearly so crippled as their smaller (120GB) drive is.
If 500GB or larger SSD choices are clearly out of your price range, then the Seagate 750GB Momentus XT 7200 rpm laptop drive would be a good choice.
Regards,
Jim

T510 Constant Lockups

I recently purchased a Lenovo T510 notebook and had an immediately apparent problem... Within 5 hours the entire machine would lock up and become unresponsive (as though Explorer was crashing). You can still move the mouse, but nothing else reponds...
Updated all Windows 7 Professional drivers, no result. Installed all available Windows Updates, no result. Updated BIOS, no result. After some playing I came to realize it ONLY seemed to lockup on AC power. Disabled power management and adjusted power settings, no result. Tested RAM, tested hard disk, ran system file checker, no problems found. Within about 2 hours (sometimes as little as 5 minutes) after plugging the laptop in, it would hang... Eventually I thought it was simply some software glitch (hey, it happens) and decided to completely format and reinstall from OEM media. This COMPLETELY resolved all issues with lockups... Now for the rest of the story:
Over the last 2 months I have since purchased 3 more Lenovo T510 notebooks and each one has the EXACT same issue. Out of the box they lockup when connected to AC power (and very intermittently without AC power), but the problem can be resolved by completely formatting the hard disk, manually installing all drivers, and continuing on.
WHAT GIVES HERE LENOVO? This product hardware/software build is clearly not being tested thoroughly before being shipped...! Anyone else have any resolution to this issue? I did use the hard disk partition to recover one time, but low and behold, the same problem resurfaced! Something is definitely WRONG with the Lenovo software package that shipped on these machines...
I am currently experimenting with disabling the "Lenovo Airbag" technology (by disabling it) to see if this might be the cause, but I cannot see how it would change when AC power is connected...
Any comments? I have seen the same issue listed several times with other T400/T500 models, but usually people just do not have the time to try everything systematically and come to the same conclusion(s). Hope it helps someone!

Your situation is difficult to troubleshoot - lots of variables.  I don't know how technically minded you are, or how much you have in way of resources to fix this (both time and perhaps spare drives, etc.) In case like this, my inclination would be to use a drive imaging tool to create exact image of your currently loaded system, saved to an external drive and then restore ThinkPad to factory load. You could have bad hardware, but if you've already customized your system and installed programs, harder to identify. Either way, you can restore your current config exactly (and quickly) on the same system or a replacement system. (Note: if not familiar with imaging of drives, perhaps not the best time to try it, but I want to provide some overall info on this post for you as well as others.)
Technical aside: On imaging software, for last 10 years I've used Acronis with great satisfaction, but their current offerings don't restore images back with the required partition alignment for SSD drives. (BIG issue with SSD drives, and important for people trying to move existing installations on traditional hard drives to SSD.)  I haven't tried Paragon yet, but they have backup imaging/restore software that preserves the SSD (and Windows 7) partition alignment.
Having just set up a T510 4313-CTO and upgraded HDD to SSD after much research on the SSD subject, I want to comment on some of what you wrote, since there are a lot of opinions on "best" practices for SSD drives, and many are misguided, and far from "universal." I upgraded the T510 with an Intel X25-M 160GB drive after research that helped me decide it was the "best" for my needs (and likely the most reliable.) My thoughts:
* Indexing: While indexing certainly helps speed up searches for traditional HDD drives, there is nothing inherently wrong with using it with SSD. In fact, with documents etc. indexed, searches for those files is instantaneous with an SSD. Windows 7 doesn't index the entire drive, just the user folders by default, and besides, customizing the areas to index is not that difficult. Indexing will not slow down an SSD (however rebuilding an index from scratch or starting it up from non-indexed state will require time for Windows to build the index that first time. This process, however, is MUCH shorter with an SSD than with a traditional drive.
The historical reasons people believe indexing is either bad or unnecessary on SSDs are: 1) Belief a fast drive doesn't need it. > In fact, having content of documents instantly available for searches is a huge benefit, and trying to search for certain words, let's say, in thousands of documents, is far better than doing a 'manual' search this way. I have indexing on with Windows 7, restricted primarily to areas of documents and photos, music, etc, and it's brilliant! Indexing on makes having an SSD even more "mind blowing" in terms of speed, trust me I've tried it both ways!
The other reason people have claimed indexing is 'bad' is the fact that SSDs have a limited number of disk writes per cell, and this has led to a worry that you should have as few files as possible writing to disk, and additional "writes" are to be avoided. Personally I believe this came out of early adopters and system tweakers "obsessive compulsive" mindset, where they are more focused on comparing their benchmarks scores, or trying to foresee future but unproven reliability "issues". Manufacturers have designed these drives to effectively deal with this, and with "wear-leveling" and the feature called Trim basically precludes a user having to worry about manual optimization (I'm simplifying here, I realize.) The newest SSD drives are designed to be USED, but many people have this irrational fear that they need to watch out for every file written. It's a very misguided perspective. (And sure, SSDs don't have the monster capacities yet, so storing massive archived data files might not be the best use of that storage space, but turning off an incredibly useful tool like indexing is not the way to go.)
* RE: System Restore: What I wrote above applies here too, however with System restore there are a few other considerations. Turning it completely off can fry your bacon when you one day need it to save your butt! It's one of those features that operate in the background but can really be a lifesaver when you actually need it. The 2 issues: "lost" storage space for restore points, and lowered "performance" when restore points are created.   Point 1 (no pun intended,) - decrease the space reserved from the default, and how much is a personal choice. I want System Restore available for the most recent past, since I know when something has screwed up. I won't be restoring back to weeks or months in the past, because too many other programs might be impacted. Thus, on a 128GB drive (in your case,) the default might be 10% but I would consider going down to 1-2%. This way very little space is reserved, but enough to roll back the clock if you screw something up short-term. How much is up to personal choice, but definitely be skeptical of those "guides" that tell you to just turn it off completely!
The other point - performance. Once again, the time needed to store a restore point on an SSD is much less than a traditional drive, and they are only made when "needed" so you're not suffering any real-world performance hit. I wish there were not so many "guides for best SSD performance" that miss the mark.
Oh, one important and not often publicized issue with System Restore and Norton: Most Norton antivirus products have a feature (and option in settings to turn off) called Norton Product Tamper Protection. If it is ON when trying to do a Windows System Restore, the restore will (fail) with message, "Restoration Incomplete. Your computer cannot be restored..." You must turn off the tamper protection before restoring a restore point. Symantec support article Sorry to go a bit off topic, but that issue was a huge one for me, and wish I had known about it from the start. Small thing to adjust when the time comes, but scary if you don't know that Norton is reason your System Restore was failing.
I realize I have not perhaps directly helped in terms of why the T510 is locking up, but hopefully helped you NOT go in the wrong direction in terms of SSD choices. Since SSD is from Lenovo, it's likely a Samsung. You might check their site for any special info regarding those drives, and drive controller drivers updates etc that are recommended, although Lenovo support should have anything important in the matrix.
Wishing you the best of luck (or perhaps, since it's been a month, you've resolved it, but hope my SSD advice helps your overall knowledge.)

Mac mini w/ ssd or iMac w/ fusion be a better choice?

For editing, processing, & previewing tracks in Ableton and Serato Scratch Live when at home and general entertainment use (watching movies, iTunes, streaming, etc.).

I would pick the iMac because it will have a faster processor. Plus with fusion drive you can really get a lot more space with some of the benefits of an SSD.

Choice of SSD possible?

My computer (Asus Zenbook) has two SSD. Photoshop C6 is installed on the C-disk. My question is if a can re-install it on the D-disk in order to get more free space on the C-disk.

yes, but it will still use some of your c disk.

Importing, copyping raw files as DNG files - copy to location choice, and more ???

First:
When I copy raw files as DNG files, the right hand pane shows where the copies will be placed. (I use Windows 7) I do not have much of a choice, and cannot set a default. The default choice is "My Pictures" on the C: drive. I have an Solid State Drive, SSD, and do NOT store my photos on that small, 256Gb drive. I store my images on an internal hard drive.
All i want to do is set the default "Copy To" location to where I store my images. I would like to copy them to the original folder, in a separate folder (for example, LR DNG). Instead, I have to open the SSD, find the files, and copy them to my preferred location. This is very irritating.
Second:
Worst, it appears that the Copy function puts the copied images into multiple folders. I had 11 images from raw files that were put into three separate folders. That seems quite silly to me. It causes me to do more work opening the folders and copying them to the root folder. That is very irritating. What is going on here?
can these two issues be resolved? Thanks, in advance.

My apologies. I thought it would open the selected folder and reveal the images to be converted. That would be the most obvious thing to do, but it does not behave that way. I made a couple folders with test images, CR2 and RW2, and the converter converted them.
Again, the navigation was funky, inconvenient, but it works. i complain because we pay a lot of money to use Adobe products, they have huge resources, and they seem to release products that have obvious flaws, especially navigation. Maybe they just hate Microsoft. Sorry for the rant.
Thanks for getting me to use DNG converter.

Mid 2011 mbp i7 with a SSD has problems, including grey screen/blue screen/beeping/freezing when I stream live video (i.e. watch espn or time warner cable) Help? Ideas?

Recently my Macbook Pro (June 2011, i7, 8gb RAM, 512gb SSD, AMD Radeon 6750, Mountain Lion - since July - currently 10.8.2) has been presenting me with an array of problems, usually initiated when I am streaming live video. I was streaming Time Warner Cable on 12/9 and it gave me what looked like the blue screen of death. It started up after about five attempts that time. The other day, after about a week of not using the computer, it wouldn't boot past the grey screen. I (option) started it and it gave me two boot choices, the regular HD and a "10.8 restore" option. The HD gave me the grey screen and the restore option gave me the dark blue screen. I reset PRAM and that didn't work. After a force (x) start it worked. Today, I was using "Watch ESPN" and the screen froze and the computer did some kind of repeating RAM beep or something. I rebooted and it started up fine. I'm not watching any videos anymore, but this is a problem since the primary purpose for my mbp is video editing. I'm still under AppleCare but I find more solid answers in the forums or at least better questions for the AppleCare people.
Anybody have similar experiences, or a solid idea of what the heck has happened to my machine?

I'm not really sure what method that person was talking about. I just read he had a successful install so I posted it.
But I'll hazard a guess
1. copy your entire drive to a backup drive
2. boot into that drive and test it out - make sure its a flawless backup, it works, and the hard drive has no problems
3. eject that drive, disconnect it and reboot into the leopard install dvd
4. erase your main hard drive using disc utilities on the leopard install dvd -- you've made a backup, made sure that backup was good, and disconnected it so it's currently safely disconnected from the leopard install you're about to do. Also, on the hard drive you're erasing and installing leopard on to, many people recommend "Zeroing" it as well as erasing it. That option is part of the erase function in disc utilities on the leopard install disc.
5. do a clean install of leopard
6. follow step 4 from that original post exactly as that person described to do.
7. read the rest of what they said
That's pretty much it. With the backup/erase/clean install/import/ you pretty much get everything you need exactly the way you want it with very few things missing -- and you've done this over a clean install. Plus that poster did mention that you can select what you want to import from your backup hard drive.
It sounds like its a "clean install" method that gives you control via "import from machine" option in the installer. Control over what parts of your "old mac" you want to import into your "new leopard mac".
Hopefully that helps. It sounds more involved, but its actually pretty quick and provides you with a perfectly save backup in case anything goes wrong with the leopard install.

Does a 500 GB SSD work in a Mac Mini (mid 2011)?

I have a Mac Mini (mid 2011), 2.5 GHz and 4 GB of memory.
The iOS app called MacTracker says that this model is "configurable to 256 GB solid-state drive or 256 GB solid-state drive and 750 GB (7200-rpm) hard drive".
I was thinking about buying a Samsung Electronics 840 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5-Inch SATA III Single Unit Version Internal Solid State Drive. My doubt is: will it work in my Mac Mini or the maximum storage must be 256 GB? If it runs a 500 GB SSD, a Samsung EVO SSD would be a possible (or a perfect) choice?

The info from MacTracker brings up the options available in a Configuration to Order
at the time the product was new; so that tells people who may have found their unit
bought with odd specs, such upgrade may be due to a CTO Apple factory upgrade.
Other options that can work, of even higher spec capacity, can be researched in
such mac-centric sites as macsales.com and others who have a reputation for
customer service and quality products; many have information on their sites...
Doesn't hurt to ask. OWC macsales may even have an online chat. Info on how
to upgrade Apple products with later parts (out of warranty, etc) is available in
their page as well as iFixit.com guides. Everymac.com also offers spec info.
Good luck & happy computing!

SSD Choice.

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