Standby timer decreasing on power cycle

I turn my phone off every night when it is not in use and power it back on in the morning.
Recently, I have been noticing that with every power cycle, the standby timer under the Usage area has been decreasing.
Time will go from 1 Day (power cycle), 3 hours (power cycle), 38 minutes, for example.
Is this normal because of the power cycle?

This sounds almost exactly like my problem, except my model is the 30 GB.
Like you, I listen to my iPod while driving into work. I pause the music, unplug, and head into the office. I rarely lock the iPod as I intend to listen to it soon after I arrive at my desk. Some days I'm able to start listening right away but other days I get involved in work and don't use the iPod at all.
Every day for the past two weeks when I get back into my car, I try to resume the music. iPod responds, indicates it's playing, but the timer doesn't advance. Pause. Play. Pause. Play. Nothing. Centre button + menu = let's try this again. I'm able to play music again after doing the reset, though I lose my position on the current playlist.
I don't know if this relates in any way, but this problem seems to have started up after I turned on auto-syncing for iTunes to iPod. I believe I was using iTunes 7.5 and I haven't updated it to the newer version. (It's also moot point as I very recently had to do a hard drive replacement.)
Has anyone else encountered this frustrating lack of responsiveness from their iPod? Is there a solution available?

Similar Messages

Must I reboot Windows after power-cycling the PXI?

The fans in the NI PXI-1042 are *noisy*!!! This thing is in a classroom and gets shut off everytime I turn around. Two questions: 1) is there any way to get around the reboot required to find the PXI cards on the PC every time it is power-cycled. 2) Where can I find quieter replacement fans for this thing?
Thanks,
Chris

Chris,
I don't know what type of connection you have (MXI-3 or MXI-4)... I have had some success with the following method:
With everything up and running, go to Control Panel >> System >> Device Manager (Hardware Tab). From there, expand the "tree" for System Devices. There you will see 'PCI Standard PCI-to-PCI Bridge'. Right-click on that and choose 'Disable'. The PXI chassis can now be turned off. When you are ready to use the PXI boards again, simply turn the PXI chassis back on, and then choose 'Enable' from device manager and the chassis and computer will link up once again. So, it does require some action up front, but it will save you from rebooting
I can't guarantee this will work every time and I'm not sure if it works for MXI-3 (I have MXI-4) but it may be worth a try.
<-*DrkOvrlord*->

How can I keep apps in the order I prefer? I've rearranged via iTunes but every time I power cycle the phone, the apps go back to their original positions...

How can I keep apps in the order I prefer? I've rearranged via iTunes but every time I power cycle the phone, the apps go back to their original positions...

Hi kelori617,
If you are having issues organizing the Apps on your iPhone via iTunes, you may want to double-check the steps in the following article and make sure you are syncing any changes to your device:
iTunes 11 for Mac: Sync and organize iOS apps
http://support.apple.com/kb/PH12115
iTunes 11 for Windows: Sync and organize iOS apps
http://support.apple.com/kb/PH12315
If all of the steps are correct and the changes still aren't being retained when you restart your iPhone, you may want to make sure your data is backed up, then try restoring your iPhone to factory settings, restore your data from the backup, then test to see if you can organize your apps via iTunes:
Use iTunes to restore your iOS device to factory settings
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1414
Regards,
- Brenden

Time Capsule stops transmitting wireless signal-power cycle required to fix

My 1 TB Time Capsule will work as a wireless access point for hours.. like 7 or 8 hours and then just
stop transmitting. It just doesn't show up as an available access point. If I power cycle (unplug/plug) it, then it starts working again. This seems to happen whether time machine is enabled or not.
Anyone else seeing this type of behavior?

My 500GB Time Capsule showed up on Friday of last week to replace a Linksys WRT54G router. I've been using the same MacBook since May of 2006 and the last several months, I've been having frequent connection issues running 10.4.11. I could only connect in the same room as the router. If I went on the other side of my small house, I'd lose the signal. Also on the old network was a Dell 300m, circa 2003 that runs 802.11B, a Nintendo Wii, and two Nintendo DS handhelds.
I configured the new Time Capsule as a closed network with WPA/WPA 2 encryption and interference robustness . So far I've only setup my MacBook, the wife's Dell, and the Wii. It was working great for the first few days. Tonight, my wife was using her Dell on the couch and I was working on the Mac in the dining room a few feet away. It seems that mixed mode traffic destroys the signal/noise ratio. We were both having issues with dropped connections. I rebooted the router from Air Port utility and it never came back. I checked it in my office and the light was solid green. So I unplugged it for a few seconds to cycle the power and the signal came back, but by this time my wife shut her computer down. At the time of peak interference which degraded the signal, the logs showed the Wii had the strongest signal and both laptops had next to none.
I should also note that the last couple of weeks have been really bad with just my MacBook running 10.4.11 on the network. I decided to do a fresh install of 10.5.4 after I setup the Time Capsule on Friday and my problems seemed to vanish. But it appears there are some major interference issues with my wife's Dell with Centrino and the MacBook.
But to more clearly answer your question, yes, my Time Capsule behaved exactly as you've described this evening.

Phone power-cycles every time I try to run Backup Assistant

I have an LG Glance , and have been having trouble with Backup Assistant. It used to work great, automatically backing up my contacts every afternoon. For the last year or so, however, every time I have tried to run Backup Assistant it power-cycles. For a while this would happen, then if I immediately went back to Backup Assistant after it re-started it would launch, but it would never accept my PIN. I called Verizon support, they made sure I was using the right PIN (I as), they re-set my PIN (didn't work), and they had me un-install and re-install Backup Assistant (didn't work). Now it power-cycles every time I try to launch Backup Assistant, so I never even get a chance to try my PIN. I have tried to launch Backup Assistant while the phone is plugged in (thinking it might be a power problem), but it did the exact same thing. The contacts in my Backup Assistant online are now almost a year out-of-date, and I'm soon going to be switching phones.
Any ideas about what I need to do to make Backup Assistant work again?

It sounds like you've done all the troubleshooting you can.
When you reinstall Backup Assistant, and it asks for a PIN, and it won't accept yours - here's something else you can try that HAS worked for me, counter-intuitive as it seems to be. Instead of using your existing PIN, choose the option to set up a NEW PIN - but then, put in your existing PIN anyway. Somehow that re-connects - at least it did for me.
You need to uninstall, reboot, and reinstall BUA, then, when going through the setup, choose NEW PIN. Use your existing as the NEW PIN.
If that doesn't work, a corporate store should be able to transfer your existing contacts from your current phone to your new device; my local store has done this for all of our recent upgrades.
Good luck to you!

HT201413 ? I have an iPad 3 and it just keeps power cycling. I have tried to restore it with iTunes several times and it keeps coming up with Error 9. Loss of USB connection. I have tried different cables and ports and it wont come back to life.

Can't seem to figure this out on my own. My apple store is 90 minites away and I would like to not burn up a weekend traveling to the store just to have it sent away. Any ideas what I can do to get my iPad3 from power cycling. I am up to date on all software updates.

Look at iOS Troubleshooting Wi-Fi networks and connections http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1398
iPad: Issues connecting to Wi-Fi networks http://support.apple.com/kb/ts3304
Additional things to try.
Try this first. Turn Off your iPad. Then turn Off (disconnect power cord) the wireless router & then back On. Now boot your iPad. Hopefully it will see the WiFi.
Change the channel on your wireless router. Instructions at http://macintoshhowto.com/advanced/how-to-get-a-good-range-on-your-wireless-netw ork.html
How to Quickly Fix iPad 3 Wi-Fi Reception Problems
http://osxdaily.com/2012/03/21/fix-new-ipad-3-wi-fi-reception-problems/
If none of the above suggestions work, look at this link.
iPad Wi-Fi Problems: Comprehensive List of Fixes
http://appletoolbox.com/2010/04/ipad-wi-fi-problems-comprehensive-list-of-fixes/
Fix iPad Wifi Connection and Signal Issues http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uwWtIG5jUxE
 Cheers, Tom

Battery backup/ surge protector and sleep power cycle on my iMac

I have a simple question regarding whether my iMac is going through a power cycle when asleep. The situation: my iMac and various peripherals are powered through an APC battery backup/ surge protector. The iMac is plugged into the master outlet on the battery backup of course.
I have a set of very good computer speakers which are plugged into the outlets controlled by the master outlet; these power down when the master outlet device (the iMac) goes to sleep. The strange thing is that while iMac is asleep I hear the speakes ocassionally power on (the bass cube makes a noise that indicates this). So it seems there is a powering down and on cycle going. Is this normal? Should I change anything in my setup. APC recommends plugging peripherals (like speakers, which they name specifically) into these controlled outlets to save energy.
It may be that I simply need to contact APC to change the threshold sensitiviy, however, it is currently set to medium (the recommended default).
Thanks for your help.

I may have mistated. The APC manual states the following:
"To conserve electricity, configure the Back-UPS to recognize a Master device, such as a desktop computer..., and Controlled peripheral devices, such as a printer, speakers, or a scanner. When the Master device goes into Sleep or Standby mode, or is switched OFF, the Controlled device(s) will be switched off as well, saving electricity."
The thing is that I seem to hear the speaker going on.. (thus they must be also going off) from time to time while the iMac is asleep. Again this may be a question for APC.
Thanks for your help.

X1 Any-room DVR, 3 nights have to Power cycle all 3 DVR boxes to see Recordings

On 7/2 I went to watch a DVR show in my bedroom, which is not my Primary DVR box. The recording was playing like a slideshow, skipping and moving at 1/100th of it's normal play speed. So I went into the living room to the primary DVR and checked the recordings from the Saved Programs menu and it told me that no recordings were available and Comcast was working to fix this problem. I then called Comcast customer service and a man sent a refresh signal for me, and it reset the primary DVR box, and then the recordings came back on the primary box. I went to check the secondary box in the bedroom where I had the original problem, and that box still was not showing any recording, it didn't have the same error, it just said that no recordings were available and to check if all my DVR boxes were plugged in. I asked the guy on the phone and he told me that I should unplug that one and plug it back in and that it should then work. I asked if he should wait on the phone in case it didn't and he said no, and that if it didn't, if I just waited another half hour it would be back. I hastily agreed and hung up.Well, they never came back that night. And I checked for another 2 hours. On the morning of 7/3, it still wasn't back, so I decided I would power cycle all of the boxes at the same time. I unplugged all 3, waited a minute. Then I plugged in the primary one, waited for that to come all the way on, waited 5 minutes after the primary box was all the way on and then proceeded to plug in the 2 other DVR boxes. Then I waited 5 minutes until after they were back live on TV to check the DVR menu (the original guy on the phone insisted that I should wait at least 3 minutes after the DVR box was turned all the way back onto live tv before opening the Saved Recordings menu). This seemed to work, the recordings came back and it worked fine for a little while during the day that day. Later that night I went to sleep really late after 12am. I went to play a DVR show in bed and it said again that my recordings were unavailable and to check all the DVR boxes. AGAIN!? YES. So I did the same thing again, I unplugged all 3, plugged in primary box, waited for it to go to live tv, waited 5 mins, plugged in the other 2, waited for them to go to live tv, waited 5 mins, then checked the saved list and it came back. Then it worked for the rest of that night.The next day on 7/4, I was out all day so I didn't really get a chance to watch until later on that afternoon, I can't remember if I watched anything DVR'd. But that night I went to bed and guess what!? The recordings were gone again. I did the same thing again. It worked for the night.Today, on 7/5, watched a couple shows on the DVR during the day, was still working. Went to bed at 9:30 pm... RECORDINGS ARE GONE AGAIN! SOOOOO I spend another 20 or more minutes power cycling and waiting and stuff, it works, I start to watch a show, 20 minutes in, it freezes, like it did the first night. I try to restart the recording several times. Still frozen. I try resetting just the bedroom box through the power settings menu on the DVR. When it comes back on, NO RECORDINGS AGAIN! TWICE IN ONE NIGHT. I am completely fed up at this point. I know if I call that you are just going to tell me to power cycle it or send a refresh signal again, and it's going to take another hour--and then it is just going to stop working again by tomorrow night!!! I am losing sleep over this at this point, literally. What is going to be done about this beyond power cycling and refresh signaling??? I refuse to spend any more time on the phone anymore at night when this happens, it wakes up my boyfriend who has work earlier than me.

bethanybrennan wrote:
On 7/2 I went to watch a DVR show in my bedroom, which is not my Primary DVR box. The recording was playing like a slideshow, skipping and moving at 1/100th of it's normal play speed. So I went into the living room to the primary DVR and checked the recordings from the Saved Programs menu and it told me that no recordings were available and Comcast was working to fix this problem. I then called Comcast customer service and a man sent a refresh signal for me, and it reset the primary DVR box, and then the recordings came back on the primary box. I went to check the secondary box in the bedroom where I had the original problem, and that box still was not showing any recording, it didn't have the same error, it just said that no recordings were available and to check if all my DVR boxes were plugged in. I asked the guy on the phone and he told me that I should unplug that one and plug it back in and that it should then work. I asked if he should wait on the phone in case it didn't and he said no, and that if it didn't, if I just waited another half hour it would be back. I hastily agreed and hung up.Well, they never came back that night. And I checked for another 2 hours. On the morning of 7/3, it still wasn't back, so I decided I would power cycle all of the boxes at the same time. I unplugged all 3, waited a minute. Then I plugged in the primary one, waited for that to come all the way on, waited 5 minutes after the primary box was all the way on and then proceeded to plug in the 2 other DVR boxes. Then I waited 5 minutes until after they were back live on TV to check the DVR menu (the original guy on the phone insisted that I should wait at least 3 minutes after the DVR box was turned all the way back onto live tv before opening the Saved Recordings menu). This seemed to work, the recordings came back and it worked fine for a little while during the day that day. Later that night I went to sleep really late after 12am. I went to play a DVR show in bed and it said again that my recordings were unavailable and to check all the DVR boxes. AGAIN!? YES. So I did the same thing again, I unplugged all 3, plugged in primary box, waited for it to go to live tv, waited 5 mins, plugged in the other 2, waited for them to go to live tv, waited 5 mins, then checked the saved list and it came back. Then it worked for the rest of that night.The next day on 7/4, I was out all day so I didn't really get a chance to watch until later on that afternoon, I can't remember if I watched anything DVR'd. But that night I went to bed and guess what!? The recordings were gone again. I did the same thing again. It worked for the night.Today, on 7/5, watched a couple shows on the DVR during the day, was still working. Went to bed at 9:30 pm... RECORDINGS ARE GONE AGAIN! SOOOOO I spend another 20 or more minutes power cycling and waiting and stuff, it works, I start to watch a show, 20 minutes in, it freezes, like it did the first night. I try to restart the recording several times. Still frozen. I try resetting just the bedroom box through the power settings menu on the DVR. When it comes back on, NO RECORDINGS AGAIN! TWICE IN ONE NIGHT. I am completely fed up at this point. I know if I call that you are just going to tell me to power cycle it or send a refresh signal again, and it's going to take another hour--and then it is just going to stop working again by tomorrow night!!! I am losing sleep over this at this point, literally. What is going to be done about this beyond power cycling and refresh signaling??? I refuse to spend any more time on the phone anymore at night when this happens, it wakes up my boyfriend who has work earlier than me.I am betting on a long-shot, but does your market have "Cloud" and are you using it? This could explain the clipping, and the LOST recordings.... You did do the right steps to getting your Any-Room DVR working, but if those recordings are in the cloud and the cloud had issues, you wouldn't have seen them.... -=Ray=-

Airport Extreme - Slow until power cycle every few hours (wired, not modem)

I have the latest Airport Extreme Base Station (no time capsule) connected to a Motorola Surfboard 6121 modem.
When wired directly to the AEBS I get download speeds of 90Mbps+, but after a few hours (I haven't determined if it is consistent) the dowloand speed drops to about 1-4Mbps. Power cycling the cable modem brings back the original speeds.
Please Note: When wired directly to the cable modem the speed of 90Mbps+ are consistent over several days (I haven't tested longer).
The drop in speed only happens when connecting through the AEBS, no matter if I'm connected wirelessly or directly.
My next test will be to see whether powercycling only the AEBS resets the speed the way powercylcing the modem does.
Any thoughts? I would rather not have to restart my connection everytime I go to use it.
Thanks!

The issue happens when I have the following setup:
MacbookPro (mid-2008) wired directly into:
AEBS (brand new, no time capsule) wired directly into:
Motorola Surfboard 6121
or
Samsung BD-5900 Blu-Ray Player (2013) wired directly into:
AEBS (brand new, no time capsule) wired directly into:
Motorola Surfboard 6121
or
MacbookPro (mid-2008) and two iPhone 5 devices all wirelessly connected to
AEBS (brand new, no time capsule) wired directly into:
Motorola Surfboard 6121

*Fix* Usage and Standby Times are the same - iPhone 4S 7.0.4

I'd like to share my experience here because I actually found the solution on here but I'm actually having trouble finding it again.
I had three problems:
1. My standby and usage times were always reporting the same values, thus draining my battery faster than usual. This is not normal behavior; whenever the screen is off it should report standby times, and after the phone is unlocked it is considered usage. They should never be recording in tangent.
2. Whenever I would try to turn off my phone by holding down the power button, the phone would basically restart itself, showing the Apple logo boot screen and then restarting. The only caveat was that it would turn off if it was plugged in and being charged. But take it off the charger and try to replicate it turning off and it would restart.
3. The sound would sometimes think that it was connected to a Dock, so when I went to the Airplay options, they were listed as Dock Connector, Airport Express and Apple TV. There would be no volume slider in the Control Center, and when pressing the volume buttons, there would be no dots, just the bell with a line through it.
Many people might be having genuine battery issues, where you have an older phone and your battery is just really bad and needs to be replaced. My 4S was still under AppleCare in December 2013 and the battery was pretty bad, so I had it replaced in an Apple Store. So for me, the battery life itself was not the problem.
I tried a lot of things to try and fix the above problem but none of them helped. This includes chatting with Apple support (I was surprised they didn't steer me in an obvious direction, considering the large amount of folks who were having these kinds of problems, but they played dumb), restoring fresh and restoring icloud and itunes backups, all kinds of combinations of settings for Mail, iCloud, etc., but nothing worked. I probably restored my phone at least ten times in my troubleshooting efforts. The isolated test of restoring my phone fresh, setting it up to the start screen, making sure the battery was charged 100% and taking it off the charger waiting about 10 minutes. Then I would check standby and usage times.
I had read about fixes for the phone not being able to turn completely off, and it had something to do with cleaning the charging port. I attempted to clean the port with compressed air and other methods, but it never fixed this problem. Then I read a post on Apple Support about a guy who had the exact same problems as I did, then said he changed out his charging port and this fixed it. Well, it was $40 so I paid someone to do it in 45 minutes.
After I got my phone back the problem didn't appeared to be fixed, but after a restore and even with an icloud backup restored with it, I looked down at my phone and presto chango, the times where separate and working as they should. Last night with wifi off while I was sleeping, the battery only went down 3%. I know this is turning out to be a narrative, but I spent a lot of time trying to figure out what the problem was and it was a frustrating process. I'm happy it's resolved.
Apple Support thought it was a corrupt install package from iTunes, or some kind of software glitch or maybe some part of iCloud constantly trying to call home, but it was a combination of both hardware and software. Because of the bad charging port, for some reason the phone thought it was still being used and thus was still treating standby as usage.
I would encourage those that are having this problem to do a test and see if your phone will turn off when you want it to. If it resets automatically and if your standby usage times are the same, replacing the charging port might fix it.

Ever since iOS7.0.6. and still on iOS7.1 both me and my wife had huge battery drain on our iPhone 4S and stand-by was equal to usage time. We finally found the solution to a post of another user on the Dutch Tweakers forum. There seem to be a bug within a certain Dutch coupon app called 'Scoupy' which drained the battery completely although GPS setting was turned of and also 'refresh on background' was off.
Scoupy said that a fix for their app is send for approval to the App Store. We removed the app and our usage/stand-by time is again as normal (higher stand-by time then usage time) and best of all a 'normal' battery use as it was the case on iOS7.0.4. I hope this could help someone. I'm wondering if the iBeacon changes in iOS7.0.6/7.1 together with a bug in the Scoupy app could be the cause? Maybe this is also with our similar apps you have on your phone.

Power Cycling P67A-GD65 (B3)

P67A-GD65 (B3)
2500k i5 Sandybridge
HD 4850
Corsair TX750
2 x 4GB G-Skill 1600 Ripjaws
CM Hyper 212 Plus
1 TB Caviar Black
My build has been stable for about 3 months now but today I went to play a game but the monitor was turned off. I switched the computer off and back on and it started power cycling. I reset the CMOS and it still power cycled. I also tried 1 RAM stick in every RAM slot but still same thing. Everything is plugged in correctly as I have been using it succesfully for the last 3 months until now. Would it be safe to say that I need to RMA it?

Quote from: Jerbsinator on 19-November-11, 11:29:51
No offense but you and many others on this board give MSI too much credit. These boards are widely known to have problems and MSI obviously isn't fixing them very well because I am not the only person that has got this power cycling issue.
Also you implying that I was the one that caused my board to fail is ridiculous. The board died, I replaced it and it booted up fine so I obviously did nothing wrong. Don't be a [censored] about it.
Let's just all cool down.
As for the statement which I have highlighted in Bold, that is a very general statement to make. To begin with, the problem of P67 chipsets lies with Intel and Intel has issued an official notice several months ago on the issues. Though revisions like B3 version had been released to solve the glitches found in the P67 chipsets, no one knows how many other problems are still unannounced thus no one dares to speculate. Do note, that the P67 chipset problem affects all manufacturers worldwide as everyone only gets their P67 from one source, which is obviously, Intel.
As far as I'm concerned about stability, the below quoted is what I have done and have been doing all this while before any tweaking starts.
Quote from: NovJoe on 18-November-11, 10:16:31
You can overclock the system but since you have experienced instability before, that is the reason why you should do everything under stock to make sure it is rock stable before you start to tweak it again.
Trust me, 1 week is a good time frame for monitoring. For all my gaming systems that I build for my clients, I always make sure that I have a 1.5 weeks allowance to do monitoring and testings in stock before I hand over the system to them. Thereafter, anything above stock, it is all in their hands to manage.

Display brightness setting doesn't stick on power cycle

The display brightness setting doesn't seem to stick during power cycles on my new 13" i7, it almost always sets itself to full brightness when I turn it on. This isn't really a huge deal but it is kind of a nuisance as I typically keep it around half, why should I be turning it back down every time I boot up???.
I have un-checked the box through settings for adjusting brightness based on ambient light, and made sure it is in fact staying un-checked.
I have also reset PRAM a few times now which seems to provide a temporary fix only. After a day or two it's back to square one again.
Any ideas, or is this a bug that there's currently no fix for?

Quote from: zankou on 11-June-13, 23:02:54
Hi, I have recently bought GE60-0ND notebook with Win8 preinstalled which I got rid of in a second I got home, reinstalled with my licensed Win7. Half of things didn't work so I flashed the correct firmware. From that point on everything works perfectly, only brightness control is broken. I simply cannot control my monitor's brightness with my special keys nor in power control setup. So I googled.. and some smart guy recommended a bios flash as well. But when I try, it says either "Problem getting flash information" or "Problem getting bios information".
Any thoughts how to get the brightness control work?
Thanks for any kind of advice
Did you switch the BIOS and the EC Firmware to the Windows 7 counterparts?
You may want to ask Svet about that error.

Up to 13 days standby time.....

The claim is, that stadby. time is 13 days. Can somebody specify this? My phone only holds power for about 2 days and a re-charge is necc.
I have  Model STL100-3. Does network need to be turned off during stadby.?
Up to 13 days standby time
*Note: Battery life claims are for Model STL100-3
Solved!
Go to Solution.

No, using your device for voice, sms, data, email, etc., you will not attain 13 days of standby time.
If you removed all data applications, email, BBM, etc., from the device and used ONLY the voice you could very likely attain 13 days of battery life. Maybe. Perhaps.
But that would be the only way to even get close to 13 days.
1. If any post helps you please click the below the post(s) that helped you.
2. Please resolve your thread by marking the post "Solution?" which solved it for you!
3. Install free BlackBerry Protect today for backups of contacts and data.
4. Guide to Unlocking your BlackBerry & Unlock Codes
Join our BBM Channels (Beta)
BlackBerry Support Forums Channel
PIN: C0001B7B4   Display/Scan Bar Code
Knowledge Base Updates
PIN: C0005A9AA   Display/Scan Bar Code

Error PWRCYCLE: Card in module 7, is being power cycled off

I have Cisco IDM version 6.1(2)E3.This IDM is module type which once with core switch.The problem its when each time want access GUI use https://10.x.x.x out error 443 and I forced reset ips use command line. When I show log at core switch found PWRCYCLE: Card in module 7, is being power cycled off (Module note responding to Keep Alive polling).
Any body help me...

The PWRCYCLE log entry in your switch is expected when you reset you sensor. A sensor reset will reload the sensor taking it off the power bus and putting it back on. This results in several switch log messages about the sensor on slot 7.
Your GUI access problem is a different matter. Search this forum for the symptoms you are experiencing. There have been many working solutions to GUI problems posted here.

IPhoto just stopped working. It loads pictures, but then goes into rainbow wheel forever. Then I try to force quit it, and then the whole Mac hangs up (had to power cycle it to get it back). I am using OS 10.5.8, and when I run software update, it assures

iPhoto just stopped working. It loads pictures, but then goes into rainbow wheel forever. Then I try to force quit it, and then the whole Mac hangs up (had to power cycle it to get it back). I am using OS 10.5.8, and when I run software update, it assures me I have up to date software. I have not added any photos since the last time I used it, probably less than a month ago. What gives?

Try these in order - from best option on down...
1. Do you have an up-to-date back up? If so, try copy the library6.iphoto file from the back up to the iPhoto Library allowing it to overwrite the damaged file.
2. Download <a href="http://www.fatcatsoftware.com/iplm/"><b><u>iPhoto Library Manager</b></u></a> and use its rebuild function. This will create a new library based on data in the albumdata.xml file. Not everything will be brought over - no slideshows, books or calendars, for instance - but it should get all your albums and keywords back.
Because this process creates an entirely new library and leaves your old one untouched, it is non-destructive, and if you're not happy with the results you can simply return to your old one.
3. If neither of these work then you'll need to create and populate a new library.
To create and populate a new *iPhoto 6* library:
Note this will give you a working library with the same Rolls and pictures as before, however, you will lose your albums, keywords, modified versions, books, calendars etc.
Move the iPhoto Library to the desktop
Launch iPhoto. It will ask if you wish to create a new Library. Say Yes.
Go into the iPhoto Library on your desktop and find the Originals folder. From the Originals folder drag the individual Roll Folders to the iPhoto Window and it will recreate them in the new library.
When you're sure all is well you can delete the iPhoto Library on your desktop.
In the future, in addition to your usual back up routine, you might like to make a copy of the library6.iPhoto file whenever you have made changes to the library as protection against database corruption.

Standby timer decreasing on power cycle

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for