Still No Refund on closed Account!! - Very poor tr...

It doesn t matter who or what time I speak to BT I just never get the service I used to receive!!!
Having been a customer for over 10 years the final straw was receiving 3 emails within a day or so of charges increasing on my account!!
First = Mmmm seeing as though I'm out my contract again if I DON'T SIGN UP AGAIN I will have to pay for your CLI
Second = Ahhhhh AGAIN if I DONT RENEW MY CONTRACT I will have to pay an extra £6.75 pcm for BT Sport!
Thirdly = And just to add insult I'm advised 'Or by the way weve increased the cost of your package too!!'
Seriously!!!!! Whats going on?? treating a 'loyal' customer who has ALWAYS paid on time, in advance and each month by DD!!
I stuck by BT even when I have had major issues with my 'infinity broadband', (which always took at least an hour on the phone each time trying to resolve it), waiting ages for you to answer my call when I do call you, receiving 'marketing calls' from specialy picked 'partners' of BT when I specifically requested to be 'Opted Out'.........the list could go ion and on....
So, now due to ALL the above I have moved to a provider who - Is HALF the price (even AFTER contract end dates), Broadband connection is 22 mb faster (even with the same line etc),
FREE CLI, VMS, LINE RENTAL, WITH-HOLDING MY NUMBER, LAST CALLER BARRING, UPGRADED TO FIBRE OPT FREE
So, BT you've had my credit balance over your '14 DAY REFUND POLICY', I've requested this 3 TIMES ALSO.
PLEASE GIVE ME MY MONEY BACK!!! So I can finally be done with all this...............

Welcome to this forum.
This is a customer to customer forum only,
This is where customers help each other get the most out of BT products & services.
Anything you post here does not go to BT. Although the forum is moderated by BT, not all posts are read.
If you need direct help from BT or have an urgent problem please use this linkContact Us.
This is a public forum which can be viewed worldwide, so please do not post any personal information, especially phone numbers, account numbers, fault numbers, address information or email addresses, as this could be used to impersonate you.
Thanks
PS . If you had posted on this forum when you were having problems as a BT customer, you would have been given plenty of help, and someone from BT would have taken personal ownership of your problems, until they were resolved.
There are some useful help pages here, for BT Broadband customers only, on my personal website.
BT Broadband customers - help with broadband, WiFi, networking, e-mail and phones.

Similar Messages

Having trouble getting refund on closed account-BT...

Hi, I recently moved house and ordered a home move. In doing so I arranged to pay a years line rental in advance, but for reasons I have never got to the bottom of the order was canceled and once I finally managed to reorder I was given a new account number. However, I have had trouble getting Bt to close my old account and pay me the £220 they owe me (£141 line rental and a further £60 in direct debit charged to my old account). BT acknowledge that they owe me the money but tell me it will only be paid back to me once a final bill is generated but each time I call I am given a different time scale as to when this will be-first call said in 2-3 working days, next call 7-8 days and today's call it was increased to 40 days. I have twice called the customer complaint number only to be directed to billing where I have asked to speak with a manager. Each time. I am told that the manager will phone me back and they never call. Tonight I was told that the manager will phone back within 2 mins - 39 mins later I'm still waiting. I'm pretty much at my wits end with this-how can I get my money back? Any ideas?

Hi SuzannaDale,
Welcome to the forum and thanks for your post. Please use the 'contact the mods' link in my forum profile under the 'about me' section to send in your details and we'll be happy to help you get this sorted. You can find the link by clicking on my username.
Thanks
Neil
BTCare Community Mod
If we have asked you to email us with your details, please make sure you are logged in to the forum, otherwise you will not be able to see our ‘Contact Us’ link within our profiles.
We are sorry but we are unable to deal with service/account queries via the private message(PM) function so please don't PM your account info, we need to deal with this via our email account :-)
If someone answers your question correctly please let other members know by clicking on ’Mark as Accepted Solution’.

Got charged full retail for a new phone instead of Edge Up, wiped out bank account, had to refuse shipment, no compensation for the time spent talking to 14 representatives over the phone in the last week, and still no refund??

On 9/29 I ordered an iPhone 6 Plus 128GB as an edge up from my 5S, swiped my card at the store to pay the Edge Up fee, and was told 10/31 was the expected ship date.
Didn't see the order on my My Verizon account, spoke with 3 representatives on the phone to actually get the order number so I could track it.
On 10/24 the ship date disappeared and I called to find out there was an issue with the payment. I gave them my debit card number over the phone for the Edge Up amount, and they charged me full retail -- OVER $1,000.
They promised it wouldn't post to my account and it wouldn't ship after cancelling the order. Next day it shipped. I called FedEx and refused the package over the phone.
I called when the payment posted the next day, totally wiping out my bank account and charging me overdraft fees.
They said they'd push for a refund immediately -- on Sunday, 10/24. It's now 10/30, I see no refund, I have no phone, and I have over $100 in bank fees from their mistake.
I spoke with a supervisor on the phone and they said they could refund the bank fees, but would do nothing for the fact that they screwed up my order, and told me it would be another 2-3 weeks before they actually ship a phone to me if I ordered today.
Sorry, but that's NOT good customer service. I can buy out my Edge agreement, sell the phone on eBay, and go to another carrier pretty easily. I don't want to leave Verizon's service, but I don't really see how they value me as a customer?
Does anyone else have some idea of what I could do about this whole thing??
TL;DR -- Verizon charged full retail for a phone instead of Edge Up fee, still no refund, no compensation for the inconvenience and stress they caused, and another 2-3 week wait on a phone I ordered a month ago.

That situation went from inconvenient to complicated quickly. Wait for any pending orders to drop off, wait for things to clear up, wait till your upgrade comes up and then upgrade when your contract is fulfilled. I would have suggested a replacement phone, I know, with only a month left why couldn't you just upgrade early, but these situations where people try to upgrade early always end horribly and once a phone order starts, it almost cannot finish until something winds up shipped received and returned. Sorry this happened the way it did. Definitely not efficient.

Very poor still images

I am trying to create a high quality DVD that includes still photos and video. 2 issues here - iphoto is producing a very poor image that includes some 'banding', and then when I export the production out of imovie into idvd - well the picture is terrible - all jaggy. I am using the highest quality settings and camera equipment - anyone know what the problem is?

I have now uploaded two still photos (in fact print screens from my mac):
This one http://www.flickr.com/photos/76312650@N03/8695704633/in/photostream/ is within a video with preferences 1920x1080i 29,97i
This one http://www.flickr.com/photos/76312650@N03/8695706065/in/photostream/ is within a video with preferences 1920x1080p 29,97p
If you look close you will see that the "i-photo" (the first one) has jagged lines on the rights side of the arch, which the other photo don't have. The quality is generally poorer, though you can't see much difference on the Flickr photos.
I have tried the whole sequence (stills and video) in all formats/settings. The photos above is from the same originals.
The bad quality is seen in the the viewer even before exporting, both in 55%, 100% and in full screen mode (of course more visible in larger screens).
Will be glad to hear from some of you again on this matter. Thanks

Macbook pro performing very poor due to Yosemite

Hi,
I bought macbook pro 2012 model just 10 days back. Unfortunately i got yosemite preinstalled. My macbook pro is performing very very poor now .. Please help me in this regard
Problem description:
Very slow performance
EtreCheck version: 2.1.5 (108)
Report generated 12 January 2015 8:06:38 pm IST
Click the [Support] links for help with non-Apple products.
Click the [Details] links for more information about that line.
Click the [Adware] links for help removing adware.
Hardware Information: ℹ️
MacBook Pro (13-inch, Mid 2012) (Verified)
MacBook Pro - model: MacBookPro9,2
1 2.5 GHz Intel Core i5 CPU: 2-core
4 GB RAM Upgradeable
BANK 0/DIMM0
2 GB DDR3 1600 MHz ok
BANK 1/DIMM0
2 GB DDR3 1600 MHz ok
Bluetooth: Good - Handoff/Airdrop2 supported
Wireless: en1: 802.11 a/b/g/n
Video Information: ℹ️
Intel HD Graphics 4000
Color LCD 1280 x 800
System Software: ℹ️
OS X 10.10.1 (14B25) - Uptime: 3 days 1:6:20
Disk Information: ℹ️
APPLE HDD HTS545050A7E362 disk0 : (500.11 GB)
EFI (disk0s1) <not mounted> : 210 MB
Recovery HD (disk0s3) <not mounted> [Recovery]: 650 MB
Macintosh HD (disk1) / : 498.89 GB (428.37 GB free)
Core Storage: disk0s2 499.25 GB Online
HL-DT-ST DVDRW GS41N
USB Information: ℹ️
Apple Inc. BRCM20702 Hub
Apple Inc. Bluetooth USB Host Controller
Apple Inc. Apple Internal Keyboard / Trackpad
Apple Computer, Inc. IR Receiver
Apple Inc. FaceTime HD Camera (Built-in)
Thunderbolt Information: ℹ️
Apple Inc. thunderbolt_bus
Configuration files: ℹ️
/etc/hosts - Count: 6
Gatekeeper: ℹ️
Mac App Store and identified developers
Kernel Extensions: ℹ️
/Library/Extensions
[loaded] com.driver.LogJoystick (2.0 - SDK 10.9) [Support]
[loaded] com.logitech.driver.LogiGamingMouseFilter (1 - SDK 10.9) [Support]
Startup Items: ℹ️
MySQLCOM: Path: /Library/StartupItems/MySQLCOM
Startup items are obsolete in OS X Yosemite
Problem System Launch Agents: ℹ️
[killed] com.apple.bird.plist
[killed] com.apple.CallHistoryPluginHelper.plist
[killed] com.apple.CallHistorySyncHelper.plist
[killed] com.apple.cloudd.plist
[killed] com.apple.coreservices.appleid.authentication.plist
[killed] com.apple.EscrowSecurityAlert.plist
[killed] com.apple.icloud.fmfd.plist
[killed] com.apple.nsurlsessiond.plist
[killed] com.apple.pluginkit.pkd.plist
[killed] com.apple.rcd.plist
[killed] com.apple.recentsd.plist
[killed] com.apple.sbd.plist
[killed] com.apple.scopedbookmarkagent.xpc.plist
[killed] com.apple.security.cloudkeychainproxy.plist
[killed] com.apple.spindump_agent.plist
15 processes killed due to memory pressure
Problem System Launch Daemons: ℹ️
[killed] com.apple.AssetCacheLocatorService.plist
[killed] com.apple.awdd.plist
[killed] com.apple.corestorage.corestoragehelperd.plist
[killed] com.apple.ctkd.plist
[killed] com.apple.diagnosticd.plist
[killed] com.apple.emond.aslmanager.plist
[killed] com.apple.icloud.findmydeviced.plist
[killed] com.apple.ifdreader.plist
[killed] com.apple.nehelper.plist
[killed] com.apple.nsurlsessiond.plist
[killed] com.apple.periodic-daily.plist
[killed] com.apple.periodic-weekly.plist
[killed] com.apple.softwareupdate_download_service.plist
[killed] com.apple.spindump.plist
[killed] com.apple.systemstats.analysis.plist
[killed] com.apple.wdhelper.plist
16 processes killed due to memory pressure
Launch Agents: ℹ️
[not loaded] com.adobe.AAM.Updater-1.0.plist [Support]
[not loaded] com.teamviewer.teamviewer.plist [Support]
[not loaded] com.teamviewer.teamviewer_desktop.plist [Support]
Launch Daemons: ℹ️
[loaded] com.adobe.fpsaud.plist [Support]
[loaded] com.teamviewer.Helper.plist [Support]
[not loaded] com.teamviewer.teamviewer_service.plist [Support]
User Launch Agents: ℹ️
[loaded] com.adobe.AAM.Updater-1.0.plist [Support]
[loaded] com.google.keystone.agent.plist [Support]
[loaded] com.valvesoftware.steamclean.plist [Support]
User Login Items: ℹ️
Android File Transfer Agent Application (/Users/[redacted]/Library/Application Support/Google/Android File Transfer/Android File Transfer Agent.app)
Internet Plug-ins: ℹ️
FlashPlayer-10.6: Version: 16.0.0.235 - SDK 10.6 [Support]
Flash Player: Version: 16.0.0.235 - SDK 10.6 [Support]
QuickTime Plugin: Version: 7.7.3
AdobeAAMDetect: Version: AdobeAAMDetect 1.0.0.0 - SDK 10.6 [Support]
Default Browser: Version: 600 - SDK 10.10
Safari Extensions: ℹ️
Searchme [Cached] Adware! [Remove]
3rd Party Preference Panes: ℹ️
Flash Player [Support]
MySQL [Support]
Time Machine: ℹ️
Time Machine not configured!
Top Processes by CPU: ℹ️
      5% WindowServer
      0% fontd
      0% smcFanControl
      0% AppleSpell
      0% Google Chrome
Top Processes by Memory: ℹ️
408 MB com.apple.SpeechRecognitionCore.speechrecognitiond
133 MB Google Chrome
120 MB Skype
86 MB loginwindow
77 MB Pages
Virtual Memory Information: ℹ️
51 MB Free RAM
1.30 GB Active RAM
1.22 GB Inactive RAM
773 MB Wired RAM
45.09 GB Page-ins
646 MB Page-outs
Diagnostics Information: ℹ️
Jan 12, 2015, 01:11:20 PM /Users/[redacted]/Library/Logs/DiagnosticReports/httpd_2015-01-12-131120_[redac ted].crash
Jan 12, 2015, 01:06:00 PM /Users/[redacted]/Library/Logs/DiagnosticReports/httpd_2015-01-12-130600_[redac ted].crash
Jan 11, 2015, 11:11:16 PM /Users/[redacted]/Library/Logs/DiagnosticReports/httpd_2015-01-11-231116_[redac ted].crash
Jan 11, 2015, 11:09:03 PM /Users/[redacted]/Library/Logs/DiagnosticReports/httpd_2015-01-11-230903_[redac ted].crash

Before buying a second-hand computer, you should have run Apple Diagnostics or the Apple Hardware Test, whichever is applicable.
The first thing to do after buying the computer is to erase the internal drive and install a clean copy of OS X. You—not the original owner—must do that. Changes made by Apple over the years have made this seemingly straightforward task very complex.
How you go about it depends on the model, and on whether you already own another Mac. If you're not sure of the model, enter the serial number on this page. Then find the model on this page to see what OS version was originally installed.
It's unsafe, and may be unlawful, to use a computer with software installed by a previous owner.
1. If you don't own another Mac
a. If the machine shipped with OS X 10.4 or 10.5, you need a boxed and shrink-wrapped retail Snow Leopard (OS X 10.6) installation disc from the Apple Store or a reputable reseller—not from eBay or anything of the kind. If the machine is very old and has less than 1 GB of memory, you'll need to add more in order to install 10.6. Preferably, install as much memory as it can take, according to the technical specifications.
b. If the machine shipped with OS X 10.6, you need the installation media that came with it: gray installation discs, or a USB flash drive for a MacBook Air. You should have received the media from the original owner, but if you didn't, order replacements from Apple. A retail disc, or the gray discs from another model, will not work.
To start up from an optical disc or a flash drive, insert it, then restart the computer and hold down the C key at the startup chime. Release the key when you see the gray Apple logo on the screen.
c. If the machine shipped with OS X 10.7 or later, you don't need media. It should start up in Internet Recovery mode when you hold down the key combination option-command-R at the startup chime. Release the keys when you see a spinning globe.
d. Some 2010-2011 models shipped with OS X 10.6 and received a firmware update after 10.7 was released, enabling them to use Internet Recovery. If you have one of those models, you can't reinstall 10.6 even from the original media, and Internet Recovery will not work either without the original owner's Apple ID. In that case, contact Apple Support, or take the machine to an Apple Store or another authorized service provider to have the OS installed.
2. If you do own another Mac
If you already own another Mac that was upgraded in the App Store to the version of OS X that you want to install, and if the new Mac is compatible with it, then you can install it. Use Recovery Disk Assistant to prepare a USB device, then start up the new Mac from it by holding down the C key at the startup chime. Alternatively, if you have a Time Machine backup of OS X 10.7.3 or later on an external hard drive (not a Time Capsule or other network device), you can start from that by holding down the option key and selecting it from the row of icons that appears. Note that if your other Mac was never upgraded in the App Store, you can't use this method.
3. Partition and install OS X
a. If you see a lock screen when trying to start up from installation media or in Recovery mode, then a firmware password was set by the previous owner, or the machine was remotely locked via iCloud. You'll either have to contact the owner or take the machine to an Apple Store or another service provider to be unlocked. You may be asked for proof of ownership.
b. Launch Disk Utility and select the icon of the internal drive—not any of the volume icons nested beneath it. In the Partition tab, select the default options: a GUID partition table with one data volume in Mac OS Extended (Journaled) format. This operation will permanently remove all existing data on the drive.
c. An unusual problem may arise if all the following conditions apply:
          OS X 10.7 or later was installed by the previous owner
          The startup volume was encrypted with FileVault
          You're booted in Recovery mode (that is, not from a 10.6 installation disc)
In that case, you won't be able to unlock the volume or partition the drive without the FileVault password. Ask for guidance or see this discussion.
d. After partitioning, quit Disk Utility and run the OS X Installer. If you're installing a version of OS X acquired from the App Store, you will need the Apple ID and password that you used. When the installation is done, the system will automatically restart into the Setup Assistant, which will prompt you to transfer the data from another Mac, its backups, or from a Windows computer. If you have any data to transfer, this is usually the best time to do it.
e. Run Software Update and install all available system updates from Apple. To upgrade to a major version of OS X newer than 10.6, get it from the Mac App Store. Note that you can't keep an upgraded version that was installed by the original owner. He or she can't legally transfer it to you, and without the Apple ID you won't be able to update it in Software Update or reinstall, if that becomes necessary. The same goes for any App Store products that the previous owner installed—you have to repurchase them.
4. Other issues
a. If the original owner "accepted" the bundled iLife applications (iPhoto, iMovie, and Garage Band) in the App Store so that he or she could update them, then they're irrevocably linked to that Apple ID and you won't be able to download them without buying them. Reportedly, Mac App Store Customer Service has sometimes issued redemption codes for these apps to second owners who asked.
b. If the previous owner didn't deauthorize the computer in the iTunes Store under his Apple ID, you wont be able to authorize it immediately under your ID. In that case, you'll either have to wait up to 90 days or contact iTunes Support.
c. When trying to create a new iCloud account, you might get a failure message: "Account limit reached." Apple imposes a lifetime limit of three iCloud account setups per device. Erasing the device does not reset the limit. You can still use an iCloud account that was created on another device, but you won't be able to create a new one. Contact iCloud Support for more information. The setup limit doesn't apply to Apple ID accounts used for other services, such as the iTunes and Mac App Stores, or iMessage. You can create as many of those accounts as you like.

Closing Accounts less than two years old

Is it better to wait two years before closing an account? I have a few accounts with Credit One, Merrick Bank, and FNBO that I am contemplating closing. The Credit One has reached two years but the other two accounts are one years old. My concern is If I close them before they are at least 24 months will they still be considered r "new accounts" in my overall credit profile.

srloring13 wrote:
Is it better to wait two years before closing an account? I have a few accounts with Credit One, Merrick Bank, and FNBO that I am contemplating closing. The Credit One has reached two years but the other two accounts are one years old. My concern is If I close them before they are at least 24 months will they still be considered r "new accounts" in my overall credit profile.We used to say not to close any account until they reached 2 years old as they were still considered new by Fico. There is no basis in fact for that per Barry Paperno former My Fico Administrator. I would not close anything prior to it reaching 7 months of age as its well known new credit underwriters consider an account to be new for its first 6 months. Quote directly from Barry Paperno "There's no 24 month rule having to do with closed and/or new accounts or even any true definition of a new account for that matter. As with all score calculations, there are various thresholds, whether dollars or months or numbers, where the number of points increases or decreases when crossed. For time triggered factors, one threshold could very well be 24 months, just at it could also be 12, 36, 48 months, etc. Not sure why 24 months has caught on in this way, but it might just be that it's a relatively manageable time period to track - and it sort of sounds logical. Other than that, you got me!"

Iphone 5s not picking up home Wi-Fi and/or very poor signals even in downtown area

Switched to Verizon and bought IPhone 5s less than 3 weeks ago. It was fine the first week then suddenly it won't recognized my home wi-fi and got very poor wireless signal. I have my old IPhone 4s and it works fine like a charm for wi-fi. It keeps reloading and not pop up any wi-fi signals. I went to the mall and normally it should pop up multiple wi-fis but it didn't. However my ipad did. I keep trying to reboot it or even reset it to factory settings and still doesn't work. Then yesterday my calls keep dropping in the middle of business conversation. This is unacceptable and no one seems to be helpful at Verizon. I even took screen pictures throughout the day yesterday to show when suddenly my home wi-fi popped up and a minute later it disappear. This also a domino effect for my photo stream, icloud back up, and most importantly my data plan. Now I can't even use my paid home wi-fi and use up all my data plan with Verizon and none of them care. I almost feel like switching to other providers. I also see that this is somewhat common to IPhone 5s with their troubled software or signal chip but not getting help from Verizon is the worst.

I downloaded the Speedtest app on my iPhone and iPad and would randomly test one right after the other. I accumulated about 5 tests a day on each device over the course of 3 days. I set up an appointment at the Genius bar. I told the Genius that I set up my phone as new and then showed him my comparisons of the Speedtest on both devices. He handed me a new (non-refurbished because it hasn't been out for long) phone, no questions. Apparently it was a hardware issue and not an iOS 8 bug.

NB205 - very poor product and service, do not buy Toshiba!! Completely dead in 6 months

I am posting this to warn as many people as possible to avoid buying Toshiba in the future. Not only was the product faulty, which I can understand sometimes happens w mass production. But the service was completely unacceptable, which was the deciding factor for me.
1. My new Netbook NB-205/BL started intermittently shutting down for no reason (complete black screen, not even to blue screen). By the time I returned home from my trip it had stopped working altogether. The power light will come on, and the fan/hard disk will try to spin for a split second and then go silent and stop completely.
2. Upon calling tech support who walked me through a bunch of diagnostic attempts (removing and re-inserting battery, etc.), they concluded it was dead and I needed to send it in.
3. The only thing I really care about is my data as I had stored a bunch of invaluable photos and downloaded about $200 worth of Amazon MP3s since receiving the Toshiba NB205.
4. Tech support assured me they would back up the hard drive for me and ship either a fixed or new computer with all my data still intact. They asked me to register it w their warranty department and call them back so they could send me a shipping box to send it back in. I did all that and it's been >3 weeks and no box.
5. So today I called Tech Support again and the guy goes "Oh yes, you have shipped your computer in for a hard drive failure?". At which point I had to explain how A) it's not a hard drive failure B) I haven't shipped anything anywhere because I never got the box I was promised.
6. Then I proceed to ask him again if my data would be safe, to which he informs me it's Toshiba policy/practice not to back up data for customers. I found this to be unacceptable and then I didn't know who to trust so I asked for a supervisor.
7. This supervisor wasn't able to help me either as he further informed me that they will not back anything up for me AND that I had to pay for shipping AND pay an authorized Toshiba Repair Center to back my hard drive up.
8. I suggested what everyone who I've talked to has said: Toshiba could send me a new computer since they've diagnosed the old one as being dead. I could swap out the hard drives, or they could send me one without a hard drive. And I could send them back the dead NB205.
9. NO was the answer. Toshiba wouldn't do anything for me, because software issues are NOT under warranty. And backing up my hard drive is considered to be a software issue. I repeatedly told him that it's their defective hardware that is causing the need for data backup. But this went ignored and I was told they don't cover anything in this case.
I either had to lose my data or pay probably $100 for a Toshiba dealer to back up my data for me. Oh yeah, and there isn't one of those within 20 miles of me and I live in Silicon Valley!! Oh yes, and they want me to pay to ship them the dead computer.
10. I finally asked him how he would feel if he was the customer, and if he felt this was any way to treat Toshiba customers. He replied by saying they have a process, and this is the process!
Well the next time I and any of you are in our "process" of deciding which brand of technology to buy, I'm certainly not going to consider Toshiba anymore. This is the second chance I'm giving Toshiba after having a very poor laptop AND service experience in 2000. Well, it took me 9 years to give them another shot, and I'm never going to trust them again. I told myself "well, it's a high quality Japanese brand, one that commands a premium in price that people are willing to pay so it should be an excellent product. AND if things do go pooryly, Toshiba will stand behind their name."
I was SO wrong!!! Let this be a message to all people out there, as I did read these forums before buying my product, but the NB205 was so new it didn't have many posts.
Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on me! I'm done with you Toshiba, it's really too bad that you will not honor your brand with fair treatment of your customers.
Ming Wu

It isn't that difficult to back up the data from the hard drive. You can easily do it yourself for about $20. http://www.datarecoverytutorial.com/recover-data-from-failed-laptop-notebook/
As for Toshiba backing up your data, ALL of the manufacturer's have that same policy. NONE of them will backup the data for you nor will they guarantee that your system will be returned with the existing data intact. This is spelled out in the Warranty documents and is fairly common knowledge amongst most computer users.
If the data was that important you should have been backing it up to USB flash drives, a usb external hard drive, or some other backup device on a daily basis just for this very reason. The fact that you failed to do so doesn't make it Toshiba's problem.
If you don't post your COMPLETE model number it's very difficult to assist you. Please try to post in complete sentences with punctuation, capitals, and correct spelling. Toshiba does NOT provide any direct support in these forums. All support is User to User in their spare time.

Blackberry Link for Q10 with Outlook Sync has very poor performance and not good Functionality

I am wondering if anyone has tested this software. Blackberry Sync software for my previous phones were wonderful. I can sync my contacts and calender in a very short time. With this new Blackberry Link it takes about 1 1/2 hours Plus to complete. And when it does complete - it duplicates entries which I did not want.
Plus what is missing is the following:
1. I am not able to say Update both Device and Outlook any longer. This functionality is gone.
My question: How does it do a two way sync if I only have a choice to use what I have on my phone or on outlook only
I want to be able to update my Outlook contacts with changes and addition I made on my Q10 phone and update my device with changes I made to Outlook.
Why did Blackberry remove this very flexible choice? Plus Blackberry Link has very poor performance.
I work for a large company and I do Enterpirse Software testing daily. Performance is the number one complaint for customers on top of the UI and functionality.

Thanks for the reply.
OS: Windows 8.1 Pro 6.3.9600 Build 9600
Link: 1.2.3.23
BB Desktop: 7.1.0.41
Anti Virus: Avast 140312-0
Firewall: None
A thing I noticed when I opened Descktop Software for the first time since the new Z30 is that the old application thinks it is looking for a Z30. I havent even opened the application since before I got the new device. The only way it could think I have a Z30 is if it is using a lot of the same files as Blackberry Link. That is some pretty terrible software development practices in my opinion. I'm going to take your suggestion and uninstall both apps, run a registry cleaner and reinstall BB Link and I bet it works a lot better afterwards.
EDIT 12 March 2014 7PM EST
Still all of the same errors with regard to syncing outlook contacts and Schedules. I will post all of the error messages I recieve here as I see them. Application is always started by connecting device with USB cable.
"Sync was unseccessful
Caught _com_error exception. Description(): Error in MAPILogonEx: MAPI_E_CALL_FAILED; Error(): -2147467259 (0x80004005); ErrorMessage(): Unspecified error; Source(): XCPCRdmptn.RdRDOSession"
REBOOT
Change to sync contacts only, 1-way sync to computer, always use device data
"Sync was unsuccessful
CPreferencesManager: Configuration Value for /Preferences/Account_1_65537/DevicePin not set in TransConfig.xml for translator RimBB"
REBOOT
Application went through the whole process and hung for about 15 minutes and then completed successfuly syncing contacts only.
Change to callendar only. Sync completed successfuly. No hang or errors. very quick.
A new recurring appointment on the device was not transferred to the computer.
Sync callendar again, completed successfuly.
Appointment is still not transferred to computer.
So far I've spent an hour tonight trying to sync my contacts and appointment changes from just one day. I'm not thrilled.

URGENT: Migrating from SQL to Oracle results in very poor performance!

*** IMPORTANT, NEED YOUR HELP ***
Dear, I have a banking business solution from Windows/SQL Server 2000 to Sun Solaris/ORACLE 10g migrated. In the test environment everything was working fine. On the production system we have very poor DB performance. About 100 times slower than SQL Server 2000!
Environment at Customer Server Side:
Hardware: SUN Fire 4 CPU's, OS: Solaris 5.8, DB Oracle 8 and 10
Data Storage: Em2
DB access thru OCCI [Environment:OBJECT, Connection Pool, Create Connection]
Depending from older applications it's necessary to run ORACLE 8 as well on the same Server. Since we have running the new solution, which is using ORACLE 10, the listener for ORACLE 8 is frequently gone (or by someone killed?). The performance of the whole ORACLE 10 Environment is very poor. As a result of my analyse I figured out that the process to create a connection to the connection pool takes up to 14 seconds. Now I am wondering if it a problem to run different ORACLE versions on the same Server? The Customer has installed/created the new ORACLE 10 DB with the same user account (oracle) as the older version. To run the new solution we have to change the ORACLE environment settings manually. All hints/suggestions to solve this problem are welcome. Thanks in advance.
Anton

On the production system we have very poor DB performanceHave you identified the cause of the poor performance is not the queries and their plans being generated by the database?
Do you know if some of the queries appear to take more time than what it used to be on old system? Did you analyze such queries to see what might be the problem?
Are you running RBO or CBO?
if stats are generated, how are they generated and how often?
Did you see what autotrace and tkprof has to tell you about problem queries (if in fact such queries have been identified)?
http://download-west.oracle.com/docs/cd/B14117_01/server.101/b10752/sqltrace.htm#1052

Anyone having problems with there iphone 5 battery life been very poor

I have had the iphone 5 for 4 weeks now and the battery life is very very poor at first i thought it must just be how it is....was dissapointed tho from fully charged to flat in 4 hours with little use or going to bed and waking up with the battery life going down 17%!!! but then 1 day i charged it fully and it never went down for ages, over 24 hours and it still had 25% this lasted for about 4 days then all of a sudden back to been rubish, i sent it in to apple who returened it without doing a single thing (apart from scratched an dented the bottom!!) it was exactly the same ..poor.....but then last night i charged it took it off charge at 6pm (english time) and now at 00.42am the day after it still has 11%....clearly ther is a fault somewere!!! has anyone had the same experience or got any tips for me please?
cheers, Danny

krue12 wrote:
Yes a lot of people are having this issue it's from the ios 6 update. Some users are reporting battery drains a lot after updating their device
There have always been a lot of battery problems posted about in these forums following each and every iOS update. Personally, I believe that the battery really isn't discharging any faster, it is just that the charging circuit is confused and needs to be reset. I always perform a setup as a new phone for major updates, for example iOS3 to iOS4, 4 to 5, 5 to 6, which should be a 'reset' for the charging system, but I do a simple update for point releases--6.0 to 6.0.1, etc. I have never had a problem with battery performance when performing the full update as new, only when I did a 'normal' update for a point release. If I perform an update with a restore from the old backup after a major update the battery problem did appear.
After every iOS point update I always do a full reset--home and on/off buttons held down until the Apple appears--three or four times over the course of a couple of days. I allow the phone to fully charge overnight every night.
This has always resulted in 'normal' battery life after one or a few reset cycles. By 'normal' I mean that a fully charged iPhone, with email and other notifications enabled and set to push, and no particular attention paid to battery conserving techniques, will discharge to about 89% over a 10 hour day. If I make a few phone calls and surf the web a bit then the level has fell to 70% or so, but unless I heavily use my iPhone 5 it doesn't drop below that point.
Prior to performing the resets the charge level would sometimes drop into the 50's or 60's or even lower in a few hours without using the iPhone. This problem 'scenario' has happened with every iPhone I have ever owned and I've owned all but the original iPhone.
As always, YMMV. I make no claims as to its usability for anyone else.

Very poor quality capturing standard-dv from an HD-DV camera

I used a Sony HDV-FX1 to record standard (non-HD) dv video at 16:9 which looks fine in the camera and on the screen during playback but when I actually capture the footage, the video quality comes out very poor ( http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/2636/videocaptureen5.png ). HD recordings from this camera capture perfectly but I can't seem to capture standard-dv video at any acceptable quality. I've tried this in FCP5 and iMovieHD and both are equally bad. Does anyone have experience with this? Thanks,
-Tom

DV video is VERY compressed. 5:1 and in a 720x480 frame. OF COURSE it will look worse than HD. HDV is 1920x1080, A LOT more pixels to work with.
And never ever EVER judge the quality of your footage using FCP or quicktime. EVER. That is NOT what your footage really looks like.
Shane's Stock Answer #2: Blurry playback
ONLY JUDGE THE QUALITY OF YOUR MATERIAL ON AN EXTERNAL NTSC MONITOR, OR AT LEAST A TV.
The canvas shows you what happens after the codec you are working with has been applied. The viewer shows you the material in its native format.
1. Disable overlays on the canvas
2. Make sure you've rendered everything (no green bars at the top of the timeline
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=24787
Video playback requires large amounts of data and many computations. In order to maintain frame rate and be viewable at a normal size, only about one-fourth of the DV data is used in displaying the movie to the screen. However, the DV footage is still at full quality, and is best viewed thru a TV or NTSC monitor routed thru your camera or deck.
Shane

I must be doing something stupid: Very poor quality DVD rendering!

I am new to Apple products and after trolling this forum, I was able to create a DVD using iDVD on my Mac mini Core Duo - 2Ghz model. But, the video is of very poor quality (compression artifacts). I am lookging for guidance to creating a better video quality. But first, let me give you some background...
I have created enough DVDs for my home videos captured both from my S-VHS camcorder and min-DV camcorders (both PAL and NTSC) using Pinnacle Studio (buggiest software in the world) and Adobe Premiere Elements under Windows. I have clear expectation of video quality and understand the quality differences between various standards.
I have a fairly new toy - Canon Powershot TX1 digital camera which is an amazing compact camera that shoots 720p video @ 30fps and stores them in MJPEG format. Very good optics (10x optical image stabilized zoom). The only con is that it has very poor low light shooting ability.
The steps I took to create this DVD...
1. Import the .avi and .jpeg files from my camera into iPhoto library.
2. Use iMovie (all part of iLife'08) to stitch the avi clips and also some of jpegs. Added transitions, titles and music in iMovie.
3. Also, added some of my old low resolution avi files (from my older Canon camera - probably in 640x480 resolution).
3. Exported it in the largest file mode (960x540) which created a 1.8GB file.
4. Opened this movie file in Garageband and added the Chapter markers.
5. Shared it with iDVD which automatically launched iDVD and showed the chapters in very nice scene selections menus.
6. Invoked the Burn menu to burn the movie into a DVD using iDVD.
Am I using the right methodology (I want the chapters)? I also observed that an earlier project which was pure 15 minutes of 720p content created a 4.7GB size exported file from iMovie whereas this current project has 51min of avi (of which about 10min is low res and the rest is in 720p format) and 12min of still photos produced a 1.8GB file when exported. This clearly tells me that the exported file is of poor quality. Why did that happen? Was it because I mixed the content and included low res videos?
I should probably try creating a DVD from the pure 720p content and see how that looks.
Any pointers would be a great help. BTW, the mac mini, iPhoto and iMovie forums are just awesome. The quality of posts and responses is very high.

Thanks a lot, F Shippey.
I exported it as a .dv file and then I was able to produce the DVD correctly with the Revolution theme and 11 chapters. I haven't done any editing any clips yet in iMovie. In most cases, I will not need to do that in most cases as the Canon TX1 creates individual avi clips every time I record and stop a recording. Having used a camcorder for over a decade now, I know how silly most of the recordings are.
I will be rendering most of my videos as h.264 so that I can use the mac mini as a media server instead of using DVDs. I have to rip my own DVDs as h.264 soon (back to handbrake).
PS: While creating my first DVD in OS X + iLife'08 tools, I noticed the following bugs:
1. The clips disappear from the display in the editing window when the project becomes large and I had to zoom in and out to make them reappear. I verified that I wasn't viewing past the end of the last clip. If I hover the mouse in the blank window, it will show the clip in the preview window on the right.
2. I had 11 chapters marked in Garageband and then I shared it with iDVD, it created two pages of scene selections with 6 chapters in each page. In the 2nd page, it added a random window (unconnected) for the 12th chapter that I didn't have. I didn't check for that and so my finished DVD has this weird 12th chapter with a copied moving clip in the window, but when selected, it doesn't do anything.
These two bugs are way few compared to what Pinnacle Studio threw at me.
Message was edited by: new2appletv

Pavilion 23xi has a very bright backlight and very poor contrast

My Pavilion 23xi has a contrast like screen of cheap price netbook, may be 1:140 may be 1:100.
No any result after all attempt of ajastments:
- no when contrast =100,
- no when contast = 50
-brigtness from 35 to 55 is comfort for me
-gamma off
-dynamic contrast off and on (small difference)
-preset = text
I can see only grey screen, it is not same to black!
On this photo you can see the trouble (white balance of monitor is full correct, some blue copol is only photo's problem)
What can I do without transportation to dealer (I live in Russia, very big country for comfort technical service)
Engineer menu of HP 23xi is very poor, there is not any useful items to reduce the LED emmitance

Hi Yuriry-Spb;
I regret that you are still having difficulties.
I am sending you a link on "Display Quality Issue"click here.
If none of these steps resolved it and it is under warranty I would call technical support..
Please call our technical support at 800-474-6836. If you live outside the US/Canada Region please click the link below to get the support number for your region. http://www.hp.com/cgi-bin/hpsupport/index.pl
Please let me know the results.
Sparkles1
I work on behalf of HP
Please click “Accept as Solution ” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
Click the “Kudos, Thumbs Up" on the bottom right to say “Thanks” for helping!

IPod touch 4 Gen battery on iOS 5 very poor

battery life very poor on iOS 5 then updated to iOS 5.0.1 and it is still verry poor

MY iTouch 4th gen with the latest iOS 5 update has a very short battery life. Even practicing battery saving measures such as turning notifications off and switching to airplane mode unless I want to use the Internet for a short period, the battery lasts barely 2 days. The problem seems to be getting worse. It is sad and disturbing to see how long it is taking Apple to fix this issue. I now feel I need to take my charging cable wherever I go and now perpetually worried the battery is going to run out of energy! Please fix!

Still No Refund on closed Account!! - Very poor tr...

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