Swapping a Logic board

I have an Ibook G3 366mhz with the Firewire clamshell. I am able to get a G3 466mhz Logic board and was wondering if that Logic board would Fit into the casing of the 366mhz clamshell with Firewire?
thanks.

I've heard of this being able to be done before on some other blogs on the net when i was researching my ibook clamshell. Some problems though are just the disassembly of the ibook which is a long and tortourous process and the possibility of a static shock which will reder a logic board or component useless. Also, you should double check things like the ethernet modem are compatible with the new logic board b/c this is a removable seperate piece, also make sure that everything on the logic board is funtioning. One last thing im going to mention is firewire. If you're ibook 366 has firewire, there shouldn't be any problems but if it doens't then your going to have the firewire port behind the composite plastic of the ibook as well as the video out port which was added on these later models. Make sure the original case you have right now will accomodate these ports.
Aside from all these precautions, if everything is in check, it will fit and should function fine. Good Luck

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Swapping macbook logic boards

Hi there, is it possible to put a logic board from a macbook 4,1 into a macbook 3,1?
Thanks

Crazy isn't it? That's just the nature of replacement parts though. I remember seeing something a while ago talking about the same thing relating to the auto industry.
It would cost like 10X as much to buy a car with replacement parts than the car costs new.
I'm thinking I saw someone here saying the screen for these things is $1200! That's just insane.

How do I get to the logic board on a PSC 2210?

I would like to swap a logic board from a known good machine to one which is having issues. How do I get it out?
This question was solved.
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Never mind, I figured it out. Thanks.

Putting 4S covers onto 4S guts: OK to just replace logic board not the rest?

I have 2 Iphone 4s': A black non-working iPhone 4S in perfect physical condition, and a white cracked-screen-but-working iPhone 4s. I want to put the black's front and back covers onto the white phone. I have followed tutorials closely and have the black phone taken apart as far as getting the logic board out. Before I go further -- and there are a number of additional steps still -- I'm wondering: Can I just take the white phone apart down to its logic board, then swap that logic board into the black phone , then put the black phone back together, using its existing parts? Or do all the parts from the white phone have to go together into the black's covers? (This is assuming -- which I'm pretty sure is correct after much advanced troubleshooting -- that the problem with the black phone is in the logic board and its attendant parts.)
The point of this would be to prevent taking the black phone all the way down to its covers, which involves a number of steps past where I am. Currently I have the logic board out of the black phone (and the preceeding parts of the procedure involved in getting to it), and ready to receive the white phone's logic board (if this would work), then go back together.
Would this work, to just swap logic boards?
Or do all the parts in the white phone have to go together into the black shells?
Hope this makes sense, I'm waiting tools in hand, thanks very much for any help.
Please be sure of the answer or I'm screwed :-).
Thank you!
Neil

Try asking on ifixit.com's forums. You're not going to get much help here.
The iPhone is not cosidered user servicable.

How interchangeable are slot loading logic boards

A friend has a 400Mhz slot loader that is working fine and is in the process of getting a 600Mhz snow iMac with a powersupply problem. Is it possible to just swap the logic boards? They are going to have me do the swap so I need to know some stuff going in:
Any voltage issues I should know about? I assume they are similar in shape but does one draw a different amount of power I'd need to deal with?
Do the ports line up with the case in the same way and shape on both logic boards?
And the VRAM is mounted on the logic board too right? So the 16Mb on the 600Mhz iMac travels with it on the logic board, correct?

Langdon,
Any voltage issues I should know about?
The dangerous voltages are on the board in the top of the case (the brown one, PAV) and you'd have to stick a wet finger or metal probe through holes near the bottom to reach anything dangerous. That would also be with the machine plugged in and turned on.
I assume they are similar in shape
They are identical and the mounting screws and snap tabs are identical
but does one draw a different amount of power I'd need to deal with?
AFAIK they're identical. The power derives from the down converter and you'll move that with the logic board. The down comverter plugs into the logic board. It's the little sub board off to the side that has coils, capacitors and transformer looking thingies on it.
Do the ports line up with the case in the same way and shape on both logic boards?
They're identical.
And the VRAM is mounted on the logic board too right? So the 16Mb on the 600Mhz iMac travels with it on the logic board, correct?
Right it's hard to tell the difference without close inspection.
Richard

Can you double check my logic and maybe provide alternate ideas? - Logic board charing issue

My situation is that I have two Core 2 Duo macbooks, model 2,1 and 1,1. One sustained a fall and basically still works as computer but screen is cracked, optical drive wont run and key board has some keys that broken of in a way that can't be replaced. The only thing wrong with macbook number two is a coffee spill. It won't charge the battery or run of the power adapter but will run on a battery that has been charged on another macbook.
I figure I probably have one fully functional macbook between the two. What I need to know is:
1. are these slightly different model numbers fully compatible for swapping out parts?
2. What is the best way to go about this in light of wanting to combine the display, optical drive, and keyboard from one mac with the logic board of the other. Should I think of it as a swapping of logic boards or cannibalizing a host of parts off of one back to the other? The former feels cleaner but the latter might be actually be less complicated and less work.
3. Is the logic board the firm culprit in the second macbook? Is there another possibility? Is there a clear spot where the logic board might be shorted that can be more easily repaired than the possible number 2 scenarios?

Look in "About This Mac" in the  menu for the serial number. They probably didn't copy it to the new logic board. They can download software to do this from a website restricted to Apple service departments.

Swapping Logic Board???

Hello Everyone
I am looking at a 600Mhz Logic Board from an iMac g3 DV I found on eBay for my 350Mhz iMac G3. Is it possible to swap them? Also, is there any documentation from Apple or somewhere on the internet that explains the process of swapping logic boards on an iMac? I just installed Tiger on my old iMac G3 and believe it or not is running pretty smoothly however it could obviously stand for an upgrade.
Thanks, Kevin

I think your 350 can go as high as 450 or maybe 500. Above that the processor is located differently and wouldn't aline with the heat-sink. I have swapped out a 350 with a 400 without issues.
Rick

Logic board swap fw400 to fw800

My 867Dual died and all indications seemed to point to the logic board.
So I swapped the cpu into a FW800 1ghz (shell from parted psu) because they share the same 133 bus.
It works and I haven't had anything strange happen
Anyone else do this?
Now I can use the newer wireless card.
I also want to try this with my main unit a dual 1mhz mdd fw400.
Any reason not to be doing this?

Running fine, and I found out it was the AGP card that failed causing the no start.
Anyways, I have a dual 867FW800 waiting for an airport card

Possible to swap MDD FW400 for FW800 logic board?

Hello all,
I'd thought I would ask this question because I have been thinking about this. Currently, have a dual 1.25 2003 model(not earlier MDD!) MDD G4 with the 2MB L3 per processor.
I just received today my airport extreme USB netgear device and I must say plugged into the USB 2.0 5-port card I have it is even faster than the Belkin PCI F5D7000 card! But, my question is concerning something else.
FW800 logic board - is it really worth it for me to swap current FW400 board with the FW800 board? 2ndly, can I use my existing MDD case or do I have to find another case? My power supply is a 360w power supply. I am not sure if it is a quieter one or not. The date on my power mac G4 2003 says: copyright June 2003(or was it July?) Apple computer. - Does this entail that the FW800 machines came out the same time as mine did? Again, I don't have the original MDD(867,1gh,1.25), I have the last dual bootable OS 9.2.2 MDD machine from 2003.
Also, is the airport extreme card going to produce faster results that the netgear WG111V2.0 USB device I currently have plugged into my USB 2.0 pci card? One thing I did notice is that I can no longer put my computer into hibernation or deep sleep, since I now have the USB 2.0 netgear wireless device attached.
Can anyone confirm if there is a way around for the sleep/hibernate function to work even with the USB 2.0 device plugged in? I also removed the Belkin wireless PCI card(FD57000). Before the USB 2.0 device, my computer would goto sleep and hibernate normally.
Thanks!

*9.x and Internet*: shouldn't be a problem with Ethernet. Forget which control panels you'll need to play with TCP/IP, Network? So if you want faster Internet with the MDD in 9.x, go with Ethernet -- the regular Airport card will work in 9.x by the way. That's the reason why for faster wireless, I'm going to buy the new Airport Express (with wireless -n), and connect via WDS to my Airport Extreme -- the MDD will connect to the Express via Ethernet which should be fine in both 9.x and OS X.
I did this once before my the original Airport Express (wireless -g) and an old Linksys all-in-one that supported WDS. But the Linksys blew its ethernet ports, so I replaced it with a newer model that doesn't support WDS.
*Copper heatsink* should fit any MDD CPU card, I've tried mine on both a Dual 867 and 1.25GHz cards, although I'm using a Verax cooler on the 1.25GHz Dual. The copper contact plate while narrow (about 1.5 cm) is a long piece, so it would contact both single and dual CPUs. As for the 1.25GHz dual in particular, see here.
Just a tip, use some good thermal compound, like Artic Silver. You'll need to clean off the old compound on your CPUs. I used Articlean (also made by Artic silver), works great. They sell a kit with both cleaner and purifier (preparation compound for the thermal compounds).
*Dual 1.25 2003*. I think the best way may be to check the model number. According to everymac.com, it should be M9145LL/A. I'm sure the info's also on Apple's site somewhere. The last 2003 1.25Ghz have 2MB L3 cache, which is easy enough to see in say System Profiler. If you're seeing 2MB L3, then you know you've got the CPU from the last 2003 model. As for the motherboard, you'd probably have to check the assembly number under the modem to insure a 2003 motherboard, but I don't think that matters as much as the CPU.
The CPU cards from MDDs and G4 XServes are pretty much interchangable --setting aside the issue of 133MHz and 167Mhz front side buses, which could overclock or underclock depending on CPU card & motherboard combination. And reading around there's an incompatibility with certain MDD Dual 1.0GHz on certain motherboards.
You could put an early 1.25GHz dual with only 1MB L3 on a 2003 MDD motherboard; for that matter you could stick a 1.42GHz dual from a FW800 MDD on your 2003 MDD motherboard, which some people have done. I guess if you're seeing Dual 1.25GHz w/1MB L3 advertised as the last 2003 MDDs, then people might not know what they're talking about, or may have replaced the CPU. The 1MB L3 versions cost less.
FW800, indeed if you want it, you can always add a card later. Since the MDDs don't have USB2, for that you'll need a card as I think you've already done. But there's always a worry of eating the slots. While rare, there are some combo USB2/FW800 cards. Problem with a combo cards over separate cards is that there's usually a performance hit on the FW side. A friend of mine has one that suffers from this -- like 7-10MB/sec hit. I recently bought a Siig combo FW800/USB2 and there's not nearly the performance hit; FW800 is only a few ticks less in MB/sec compared to my FW800 only card. In my DA, I didn't see any deep sleep issues with the Siig card, but every Mac is different. I've haven't tested it in a MDD, yet.
I'm working on getting two MDDs working (long story), so I have my hands full. Can't say I love the MDDs yet, but I certainly been bit by the tinkering/upgrading bug. So I'm have fun getting my two MDDs together that are both very close to being ready -- I need to stress test them before moving over my HDs/data, cards, etc.

Powerbook G4 1.33 thermal paste logic board swap

I'm in way over my head here swapping over a logic board on a Powerbook G4 17" 1.33, with the help of a guide at ifixit.com, ifixit has a thermal paste guide but I'm still not entirely sure on how it applies to this particular machine.
I've removed the faulty logic board and the replacement one is on standby - here's a photo of it; http://img810.imageshack.us/img810/3964/logicboard.jpg As you can see on the lower part of the image, bottom left corner there is the motorola processor, then next to that approx 1.5 inches square there is a heat sink(?) and then next to that there are 4 squares with a grey diamond shape in the centre - not quite sure what this is.
The latter two have a sort of white gunky foam residue which I'm in the process of removing with a spudger. The inside of the case where these components make contact have corresponding raised shapes, I was going to clean these with Artic clean's material remover and thermal surface remover.
Put simply then on the logic board there are two large squares and four small squares with a diamond in the middle my questions are;
1. Should I use the Artic clean material remover and thermal surface purifier on all of these shapes.
2. Should I spread very thinly the ArticSilver 5 over each of these components?
Thanks in advance
Jim

some replacment boards are shipped with "thermal pads" - foam is likely leftover from the removed thermal pad, which are kind of sticky thin plastic-like pads and are glued to the chips on the board.
maybe consider getting some pads at your local computer store, if not mistaken, pad is only used on the processor chip, paste is used on video controller chip for that logic board
hard to guess what pad thikness/type is supposed to be used on that board, so maybe the paste is a better option

Backup not recognized after logic board swap and restore from clone

My MacBook Pro had a new logic board put in. I have an external drive that was a clone of the internal boot drive made with Carbon Copy Cloner, so I had booted my Mac Mini from the clone to continue working while the MBP was in the shop.
When I got the MBP back, I reversed the clone to updated the MBPs internal drive with changed files from the external clone.
Upon connecting the MBP's Time Machine drive, and reassigning that volume to TM, TM doesn't recognize the original backup folder as being the one to use. Instead it tries to make a new backup folder. But it fails and reports that there's not enough room on the disk.
Is there a way to manually point TM back to a particular backup folder? Or am I stuck losing those backups and having TM start over again?

V.K., thanks for pointing to the hint. I have some familiarity with Terminal, and followed the hint instructions closely. I could see that there was a new file with my new Mac address on the the TM volume. But still couldn't get my system to recognize the old backup, even after restarting and turning the TM drive off and on.
Since I didn't feel that my old files were that critical, I just went ahead and erased the TM volume and started a new backup set.

Can you swap G5 PPC logic board for an Intel board?

If....and I'm hoping not....I have to get a new logic board for my G5 is it possible to sawp it for an Intel version? I mean, is it possible? I'm aware of the cost and such (Procs, memory) in addition but, may possible be tempted to do it if it's do-able.

Negative, the cases look similar but internally are EXTREMELY different. Even the later ( late 2005 ) G5 are internally different than the earlier G5.

Would a 1.33Ghz Logic Board be a straight swap for a 1.2Ghz?

My girlfriend's 12-inch iBook has lost it's backlight and I've decided to get a new Logic Board for it. It's a 1.2Ghz, 256mb built in ram, Radeon 9200 32mb board. Could I replace it with the 1.33Ghz, built in 512mb, Radeon 9550 32mb board? They look identical from the pictures I've looked at.

The screen module is the half of the iBook that doesn't have a keyboard/trackpad They can be purchased quite cheaply, due to iBooks dying for other reasons, and people parting them out.
If the inverter has failed, things will still display on the screen, and everything will work, but you won't have any backlight, so you'll only be able to see them in really bright sunlight (ok, you live in wales, this might be hard to find or a strong flashlight pointed at the screen.

Swapping Logic Boards

I bought a G5 Logic Board off of eBay and am having a bit of difficulty booting up.
I can get into Open Firmware, the boot selection screen, and boot up Apple Hardware Test and Apple Service Diagnostics, but not OS X or the installer. The board passes a quick test in AHT. In ASD, when I try to run a thermal calibration, I am told something is wrong with CPU 0's EEPROM. Most tests in ASD pass as well (ethernet failed, but I didn't plug in a cable).
What also concerns me is that the Firmware on the board is 5.1.5 f0, which seems to be for uniprocessor G5 machines. Everything tells me I only have 1 CPU. AHT tells me that the CPU is 1.152GHz, when it's a 2GHz CPU. The board has two CPU slots.
My original board has the part number 630-4848 on it. The new board says 630-6395.
Any ideas as to what's going on? Did I get the wrong board?

Dear Squirrel2,
Yes, you really need exactly the same board you're replacing. The board is, I suppose, trimmed for the 1,8 GHz duo processor G5 (otherwise you wouldn't be able to connect both processors), therefore the firmware doesn't 'know' the 2 GHz processors and is, as reported in your first input, sabotaging other processes at the same time.
Other question before you're 'throwing more water into the sea', as we say over here: are you sure both your processors were fine before you replaced the logic board?
Only the late 2005 model is more easy: only two different boards, one for both single dualcore versions and a second for the quadcore.
Success finding the right (vintage) part and best regards,
Robbert

Logic board serial swap desperately needed

I just got the logic board replaced on my Mac Pro, and here's my problem: Over the years I purchased hundreds of plugins: VST plugins, Photoshop plugins, Final Cut Pro plugins etc etc, plus tons of apps. There is NO WAY I can spend a week reauthorizing and reserializing all this software without going broke. I absolutely need to replace the new logic board's serial number with the old logic board's serial number. My Mac Pro is from 2007, and I will stop using it as soon as Apple releases the new Mac Pros in 2013. In the meanwhile I still have to pay the bills with this old system and I don't care if the warranty is blown since soon it will just sit there for backwards compatibility (loading old projects in 2015 etc). Can anyone help? I know about Blank Board Serializer, but that only works with Logic Boards with no serial numbers. If I need to I will pay the money and buy another logic board and serialize myself if I need to, but I'm not sure it will work and I don't want to waste another $600.00.
This isn't fair. I shouldn't be penalized for being honnest and buying all this software. If I had nothing but cracks on my computer, I wouldn't need to change the LB serial number since all the software would just work anyway. So why are the Apple folks and tech support guys so unwillig to help people like me?
Does anyone have a solution? Is there a way to replace a serial LB number?
Thanks,
Jeeve

Cloning the drive works beautifully, as long as the logic board is the same. Over the years I've used 3 different startup drives on the same computer. CCC has allowed me to save the weeks of re-serializing everything all the time.
The dufus at the repair shop was lazy and told me he couldn't flash thew new logoic board. Now that I learned it is possible I will take my system back to the show and make a scene, even if I have to pay for another blank logic board.
I will contact Apple if this approach doesn't work.
I never got an answer regarding softraid mirror, but that was before I realized CCC did the trick.
I understand if it was possible for anyone to flash their logic board and change the serial number there would be mass fraud, but ironically in my case, I need to duplicate the old serial number specifically because all my apps were purchased. If I had cracks this would not be an issue because they would just work with any system;-) If the repair shop doesn't want to do it I'l have to get my money back and go to Apple. I have a few friends who had the same problem and Apple transferred the old serial number to their new logic board.
In the meanwhile I'm just losing money because I can't work. So annoying!

Swapping a Logic board

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