T60/T60P Heat Sink Compount (thermal Grease, Thermal Compound) Part numbers?

Anyone have a part number for the heatsink Compound for the Cpu Grease? Also, can the little patches of heat sink putty be purchased as well for the video and support chips?

aftermarket one is okay, the OEM one is around 70 USD for 2 ml or something, not really worth it.
Regards,
Jin Li
May this year, be the year of 'DO'!
I am a volunteer, and not a paid staff of Lenovo or Microsoft

Similar Messages

How Should My Heat Sink Gel Look?

Hey all,
Is this enough heat sink gel for my fan fixture to board connection?
I was having problems with overheating while gaming, so I took my fan fixture out and cleaned it out real well. Doing this required me to pull it away from the board, and I'm not sure if I should have cleaned the heat sink gel off and re-applied some new.
Here are some photos of how the physical connection looks. I simply put it back and place, and here I am typing to you now:
http://rosshardy.com/files/images/IMG_2241.JPG
http://rosshardy.com/files/images/IMG_2240.JPG
Thanks!
Ross
P.S., my warrenty already expired (I'm aware that I would have voided it).

lead_org's idea of useing a credit-card or similar tool to spread the compound is a good idea.
My idea of iceing on a cake was a bit vague I suppose. The point was an even thin layer, liberally applied to fill the neccesary imperfections, yet thin enough to not be wasteful.
This excerpt from the Wikipedia artical on "Thermal Grease" may enlighten things a bit for all in question. There's more for those technically interested on the Wikipedia web site; referrenced via the link above, but I think the notes below should suffice enough info for the average person.
Purpose
Thermal grease is primarily used in the electronics and computer industries to assist a heatsink to draw heat away from a semiconductor component such as an integrated circuit or transistor.
Thermally conductive paste improves the efficiency of a heatsink by filling air gaps that occur when the irregular surface of a heat generating component is pressed against the irregular surface of a heatsink, air being approximately 8000 times less efficient at conducting heat (see Thermal conductivity) than, for example, aluminium, a common heatsink material.[2] Surface imperfections inherently arise from limitations in manufacturing technology and range in size from visible and tactile flaws such as machining marks or casting irregularities to sub-microscopic ones not visible to the naked eye.
As such, both the thermal conductivity and the "conformability" (i.e., the ability of the material to conform to irregular surfaces) are the important characteristics of thermal grease.
Both high power handling transistors, like those in a conventional audio amplifier, and high speed integrated circuits, such as the central processing unit (CPU) of a personal computer, generate sufficient heat to require the use of thermal grease in addition to the heatsink. High temperatures cause semiconductors to change their switching properties to the point of failure while CPU power dissipation overheating causes logic errors as heat raises electrical resistance on the multi-nanometer wide circuits of the CPU core.[3]
Applying and removing
Computer processor heatsinks utilize a variety of designs to promote better thermal transfer between components. Flat and smooth surfaces may use a small line method to apply material, and exposed heat-pipe surfaces will be best prepared with multiple lines.[4]
Because thermal grease's thermal conductivity is poorer than the metals they couple, it is important to use no more than is necessary to exclude air gaps. Excess grease separating the metal surfaces further will only degrade conductivity, increasing the chances of overheating. It should also be noted that silver-based thermal grease can also be slightly electrically conductive. If excess were to flow onto the circuits, it could cause a short circuit.
The preferred way to remove typical silicone oil-based thermal grease from a component or heat sink is by using isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol). If none is available, pure acetone is also a valid method of removal. There are also purpose made cleaners for removing and purifying the surfaces of the contacts.
HTH.....
Regards,
Visible_Spirit

MSI R6950 Twin Frozr III Power Edition – Replacement Heat Sink?

Hello,
Does anyone know of a good 3rd party heat sink that will definitely fit this non reference card? We all know that manufactures such has Artic, Thermalright and Prolimatech make such heat sinks, but of course they are for reference cards. I'm sure you can understand that I don't want to make any expensive mistakes!
Thanks,
Krutish.

Thanks for the reply flobelix.
My main concern was the amount of decibels this card produced when pushed, not its thermal properties. Under high stress the card would peak at 80-85c with a fan speed of anywhere around 80-100%. Normal gaming temps would be around 65c-75c depending on game, or gaming environment, with matching fan speeds. That is why I was looking for a replacement, the temps were within the manufactures tolerances, even if a little high, but the db's were well outside of mine!
However, the situation as changed somewhat. While messing around inside the case trying to improve airflow I accidentally touched the heat-sink assembly, and upon doing so the fan instantly roared to 100% and the temps started to shoot up. I wiggled the assembly again and the fan and temps dropped back! So it seemed like the heat-sink was lose! I removed the card and tightened the screws a little, this solved the problem in regards to the temp/fan shooting up, but the temps were still high!
The next step was to completely remove the heat-sink, give it a good clean and replace the thermal compound in the hope that this would solve the noise/heat problem. It was at this point that I spotted the problem! The GPU was absolutely caked in thermal compound, so much so that all of the resistors around the GPU were also covered in thermal grease, (Don't these guys know less is better?) good job they hadn't used a metal based thermal compound, that could have wrecked the card!
Anyway, I removed the mess and used TIM-clean to dissolve what was left and finished the clean up with isopropanol. I applied a small amount of compound, replaced the heat-sink and Bobs your uncle! Max loads so far, GPU 64c – Fan speed 55%... That I can live with!
So there you have it, this card as been noisy and running hot from the day I brought it, but I didn’t know any better, I've never seen or heard a MSI R6950 in action before, now I have!
Made In China. (Sad Face)
Krutish
Oh almost forgot... i heard off Artic, they recommend the Twin Turbo II, Xtreme II or the Xtreme III for this card!

STIII Force (TM) Thermal Compound First Impressions Exclusive! for nFo

Ok here is a first picture of STIII (TM). This newest product of the popular series is the most advanced yet it is a Technology breakthrough. This is the First Liquid Termal compound. It has come through excesive lab testing (still final packaking and marketing of the product is to be done).
features:
Liquid never dries out evaporation at 500 C
Excellent Thermal Properties, decrease you CPU Temperature up to 11 C
Cool Color and Tropical fruits Odor. Color different than STI & II because its liquid form
Can also be injected via drill hole to heat sink to increase heatsink performance up to 40%
Due to this technique (see pic above) any low cost aluminum heatsink can be used with excellent results
Cost effective solution no need for expensive and bulky HSF
Will not work for Intel CPUs or VIA chipsets motherboards (see purchase agreement). Exclusive only for AMD CPUs and nForce MBs
Fitted with nanorobots which actually identify CPU and chipset. CAUTION!! if applied in an intel cpu or other chipset than nForce STIII Force (TM) is turned into explosive liquid which detonates at 45 C!
Order now!
price at 29 US$ (incl VAT).
Markoul Laboratories (c) Inc.

Manolis,
I give the regulars from the old nForce forum plenty of lattitude, I just ask thet you keep the O.T. and the like posts to a minimum. MSI saw the need for people to have fun and post whatever they want and dedicated a forum to it.
Do not abuse the forum. I need to keep it running on topic 99.9% of the time.
Richard

Thermal compound replacement, RESULTS and PICTURES

YOU CAN HAVE A MACBOOK PRO THAT ISN'T SCORCHING HOT!!
(note that this will NOT fix any whine or moo; they are unrelated problems)
Here's how.
My Mother's Macbook Pro (Or Cookbook, if you will) Arrived a week ago today. I played around with it to make sure everything is alright because my mother doesn't know how to check for things like dead pixels, bad ram, or cough improperly applied thermal compound.
One of the first things I noticed after turning on the new MBP is how totally sweet it is! The second thing I noticed is how freaking hot it is: I recoiled in pain from the Fn key bar the first time I touched it. Disappointed, I started searching the web and sure enough, pretty much everyone who owns one is complaining that it's too hot for comfortable use.
Apple calling this a "notebook" instead of a "laptop" is a total semantic cop-out. It's a PORTABLE COMPUTER and I must be able to trust it around my dogs, children, valuables without the MagSafe burning up or the battery swelling and bursting.
I don't have objective figures for just how hot it was, but it was right about at my pain threshold above and below the belt, and sometimes over it. I couldn't hold my hand to it for more than a few seconds. In particular the area to the left of the touchpad was of concern. I do have before-and-after figures of the CPU and HDD; I invite yourselves to look at them:
Before After (Temps in degrees C, ambient 25 C)
50-60 26-35 CPU (idle)
76-85 56-65 CPU (load)
41 33 HDD
In particular the HDD figures are a great relief. HDDs are notoriously sensitive to temperature and even a few degrees C can cut their lifetimes significantly. Furthermore the area is now cool to the touch and I can once again rest my left palm on it without discomfort. The ranges are due to the fact that the sensor inside the core duo is flaky. In 5 seconds it can run anywhere from +-5 to +-10. Nevertheless it is accurate enough for our purposes. Below are photos, procedure, and a rough outline of test methodologies:
http://www.pbase.com/silentplummet/image/62641589
Here's the idle scenario before the procedure. The computer has been on for hours (days really) and I'm doing the work I normally do on it. TextEdit is open (to a little project I'm working on) with firefox and the temperature monitor. Alt-tab is to show that those are the only programs running. CPU temp is dead at 50 C. This is INSANE for an idle figure on ANY computer; desktop, laptop, "notebook" or otherwise.
http://www.pbase.com/silentplummet/image/62641590
The operation area and stress test. To stress the ATI chip I've jacked up the resolution, run a couple of quartz programs, SNES9x (a hardware emulator; the software shown is called "Energy Breaker") with a brutal multitasking OpenGL hardware renderer, and Google Earth. To get the CPU going I have Adobe's Lightroom processing thumbnails, and again SNES9x. For various I/O I have two shells executing yes > /dev/null, a USB mouse plugged in, and all the HDD access from lightroom. I figure it paints a pretty good picture of the "worst case scenario" of hardware stress for a laptop like this.
http://www.pbase.com/silentplummet/image/62641591
The CPU core(s) is at 76 C. I should note that at this point, as hot as the CPU is, overall the case is really not much hotter than it was before. In other words, it's just as unacceptable.
At this point I turned her off and dug in. I used a howto from Ifixit to serve as my guide. The procedure went without surprises until I got all the way to the logic board.
http://www.pbase.com/silentplummet/image/62641592
Dear lord!! That is an obscene amount of compound. It's casting a shadow over the rest of the board!! This gray gak is piled on so thick, it's no wonder the cooling system couldn't work effectively. It had even gotten all over components nowhere near the dies. That definitely cannot be good for their lifespan. Here's a shot of the heatpipe:
http://www.pbase.com/silentplummet/image/62641593
Terrible. Thermal compound has been squished out all over the place, including the chassis itself. This explains why it was getting so hot. A photo from the MBP service manual has been floating around the net, illustrating that this gross amount of compound is actually according to procedure.
http://www.pbase.com/silentplummet/image/62641594
Clean as a whistle. After removing the bulk of the compound with q-tips I used ArctiClean 2-step process to emulsify the rest and remove it with paper towels. You can see it's not perfect but it's close enough for me. I'm not overclocking this thing; I just want to run it "in spec" and have it not burn me. At this point, the CPU dies and the heat pipe interfaces should have mirror finishes. It's an overclocker's dream, and Apple already did the work for me.
http://www.pbase.com/silentplummet/image/62641595
This is how I applied Arctic Silver 5 to replace the compound I removed. Squeeze the tiniest little bit out of the syringe directly on to the die, and scrape it across with a flat edge (they recommend a razor blade but I just used a plastic ID card). Take the amount of compound you see on the Core Duo (on the right) and make a flat, even layer like the one you see on the ATI (left).
http://www.pbase.com/silentplummet/image/62641596
Turned it on and went straight for the hard stress test, after making sure everything was OK of course =) Wow! It reads 58 C in the screenshot, and doesn't go above 65C!! Moreover, there isn't even a bit of warmth above the Fn keys, and the HDD area is cool to the touch. I'd call this one a complete success. I'm idling right now and the temperature reads between 26 and 31C. Even the bottom is just slightly warm to the touch. Now I have a real laptop again!
So why did this happen?
There's a lot of confusion about the way the Macbook Pro cools itself. I admit it's confusing. Basically, Apple is shipping Macbook Pros with one cooling system, and replacing the thermal compound changes it into a very different system. Let me try to explain what I learned from digging around the hardware.
1. The built-in thermometer in the CPU is flaky. That's why you have to access it with a kernel extension and all kinds of hacks, and why Apple circumvented it completely in the cooling system. That's right: the MBP cooling system ignores the Core Duo temperature entirely.
2. The cooling system consists of a convective (my guess, I don't think anyone really knows what kind of) heatpipe which is in the base, directing heat out to two heatsinks which are then to be cooled by two fans if need be.
3. There are two temperature sensors. One is on the heatpipe itself, and the other one is on the chassis just next to the right fan. Probably the hardware monitors these temperatures and the differential between them to decide when to activate the fans and how long.
4. Behavior before the replacement procedure: The CPU core would get hot, hotter than I've ever seen a CPU go, at 80-85C. Most people confirm their MBPs also exhibit this. Where was this heat going? Well the fans didn't turn on until I put it at full load. Even when the fans did turn on, there wasn't much warm exhaust coming out of the vents at the back. The chassis heated up until it was unbearable, and most of the excess heat was being radiated away from it.
To sum up, the ineffective thermal interface between the CPU dies and the heat pipe was inhibiting heat from tripping the fan sensors. This explains why the fans didn't turn on until drastic temperatures were attained, and why the chassis got so hot. Essentially, the chassis was serving as a big heatsink for the CPU, which is the only reason it didn't overheat and shut down.
Effective, Apple, but not quite appropriate.
5. Behavior after the replacement procedure: The first thing you notice is that the fans scream from the second you turn the thing on. They aren't going full blast but pretty close to it. An effective thermal interface using an APPROPRIATE AMOUNT of AS5 (anything would do but I figured if I'm applying thermal compound, why not go for the authority) allows the heat to go straight from the cores into the heatpipe, tripping the sensor early and fast. The fans come on, I can feel hot air coming out the back, and the chassis now removed from the thermal equation is cool and comfortable again.
Of course, the thermal equation is different from before, and from the way Apple has tuned the fans to work from the factory configuration. This is more cooling than we probably need, and I foresee an update to Tiger allowing us to choose the thermal/noise tradeoff for ourselves.
Well, I hope that explains it, and I hope that those of you still suffering the abuses of your "in spec" MBP can take some hope from my findings, or are emboldened to go ahead and repeat the procedure yourself. I will post informative links here.
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/85.1.0.html
http://www.arcticsilver.com/
http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1864582 (This is where I learned of the thermal paste issue)
Remember if you ever open up your MBP to NOT BREAK ANYTHING and please, always read the instructions before you reach in. =)

methanol, my conclusion is that Apple's specifications for thermal grease application are technically sound. As a corollary, I put the postings claiming that isn't so in the Urban Myth category.
There's a lot of technical literature on design and manufacturing specifications for thermal grease use, the kind of literature that appears in professional technical publications and is written by engineers. That literature supports Apple's thermal grease specifications. Putting it another way, Apple's engineers have a lot more technical training and experience than the average hobbyist who is working from the directions that came with Arctic Silver.
Yes, my computer has the "messy" looking application of thermal grease. No, it isn't inappropriate and doesn't need to be modified, and Apple did not make a quality assurance/quality control mistake.
Posts about the thermal grease modification began appearing several months ago, followed by Hardware Monitor charts showing considerable differences in "before fix" and "after fix" temperatures. I found, however, that I could easily replicate those before and after charts, and my computer compared favorably with the "after fix" temperature charts. Why? There was no quality control on the generation of the charts. And of course some owners damaged their computers in the process of taking them apart and putting them back together. Not a good idea, in my opinion.
Painstaking manual application of thermal grease might result in an insignificant drop in CPU temperature, perhaps 2 or 3C. Trying that in a mass production situation would result in more CPU failures.
True, some people got very significant reductions of case temperatures. That will happen if the sensors are not working (broken connection) and the fans run full out.

How to make 260 gtx 55nm VRM custom heat sink

Warning: This will void your warranty
The caveat above added by Mike, Forum Administrator
How to Create a Custom 260 GTX 55nm VRM Heat Sink
Introduction: This guide was created to show how you can make a custom VRM heat sink from the stock heat sink to be used with an aftermarket cooler.
Reason: Many aftermarket companies, such as Thermalright and Arctic, fail to provide a good VRM heat sink for the 55nm 200 series GTX’s. The solution often involves poorly sticking thermal tape or no solution at all, such as the Arctic cooler, which states it’s ok to leave the 260 GTX 55nm VRM chips uncovered. To leave the VRM chipset uncovered maybe ok for stock clocked cards but what about an over clocked card or an enthusiast trying to push the performance envelope? That is after all, what these aftermarket cooling solutions are all about; especially the Arctic cooler which can cool up to 250 watts! Fortunately the solution is very easy and should take you no more than 10 to 15 minutes to address.
Use: To create a custom made VRM heat sink to be used with an aftermarket cooling solution such as the Arctic cooler and Thermalright cooler.
Tools:
Dremel, with metal cutting wheel and sanding wheel.
Thermal Pads, which you can buy in sheets from any performance pc store and should be 1.0 mm in thickness.
Philips Screw Driver, very small size would be ideal.
Before we begin I’d like to remind you that removing or tampering with the stock heat sink will more than likely void your warranty. This guide was also constructed assuming an aftermarket cooler will be installed. The card used in this guide is a MSI 260 GTX 55nm with reference PCB design (REV 1) but will also work with other 200 series GTX cards. When working on any electronic device, always make sure you are well grounded!!!
Step 1: Remove the screws with the springs only from the back side of the graphics card as shown in figure 1A. There is a total of 13 spring screws that need to be removed. Check to make sure that your card does not have two small additional securing screws which are located on the exhaust side of your graphics card with your DVI ports. If your card does contain these additional screws, remove them before continuing on to step 2.
Step 2: Gently work the card from the heat sink. NOTE: Do NOT force or pry heavily, you will damage your card. It may take a little caressing depending on how much poor quality thermal putty was used from the manufacturer.
Step 3: Remove the fan power connector from the fan power port as shown in figure 2A.
Step 4: Remove and discard all the old thermal pads. You should never re-use thermal pads and especially not the low quality manufacturer ones! NOTE: keep in mind the location of the VRM thermal pads since you will be making replacements.
Step 5: Clean off the voltage regulator chips with a tissue or with a soft eraser as instructed by Arctic. Personally I use a tissue very lightly dipped in alcohol to clean the surface of the chips. The voltage regulator chips for the 260 GTX 55nm are shown in figure 3A. NOTE: I will not be covering the cleaning of the GPU or Ram since it does not pertain to the VRM heat sink.
Step 6: Flip the heat sink so you are looking at the bottom where the thermal pads were attached. There are 6 very little screws which need to be removed from the assembly. Figure 4A shows the location of the screws attaching the plastic shroud assembly. Once they are removed gently pry the plastic shroud off and set it aside.
Step 7: Now turn the heat sink over and remove the 4 black screws from the top side of the heat sink. The fan should come off freely and set that aside as well. Your heat sink should look like figure 5A.
Step 8: Now we are ready to begin cutting the stock heat sink. With a sharpie draw a black as shown in figure 6A. This will give you a marker to follow when cutting.
Step 9: Attach the metal cutting wheel to the dremel and begin cutting across the black line. Danger: ALWAYS wear eye protection when cutting a metal object or any object. The metal is very soft and not much force is needed to cut it. Try not to damage the mounting holes when cutting (figure 6A). You may need to lightly sand the cut edge depending on how rough or jagged it is after cutting. When you’re done you should have a piece as shown in figure 7A. This will be your VRM heat sink. Important: MAKE SURE you clean the heat sink well and remove all metal particles. Also allow the heat sink to dry well before installing!!
Step 10: Next cut the new thermal pads to the shape of your VRM chips. It should look like figure 8A when you are finished.
Step 11: Gently place the heat sink into place and attach the screws. When you are done it should look like figure 9A.
Congratulations on your custom made VRM heat sink. The great thing is that it never has the risk of falling off, such as thermal taped ones, and can be removed and installed as many times as you wish. It also does not contain thermal adhesives which also do not facilitate removal as well. The stock spring screws will also insure secure contact between the VRM chips and the sink. The custom heat sink comes with nicely built in fins and much better cooling performance then individual dinky VRM heat sinks provided from the Arctic or Thermalright coolers.
p.s. It is possible to put old heat sink back on the card since each section has its own mounting screws but I would not recommend this unless absolutely necessary.

I'm running a corsair 750 watt PSU
Q660
Gigabyte g31 motherboard
1TB WD Hard drive
OCZ 1066mhz of ram
And I recently swapped the lighting with a gtx 260 and see what would happen in the same system. The GTX260 ran games smoothly, and would run furmark fine with the newest nvidia drivers. Swap back the gtx 275 lightning, and games are really slow and choppy especially when you add any kind of AA. The FPS is literally cut in half when I switched to the msi gtx 275. I think it's safe to say that the GTX275 is defective.

Thermal compound for G4 needed ?

I have a Quicksilver G4 (DP 1GHz) which ran trouble free(except CD/DVD Drive) for many years. One fine day I got kernel trap and not co-operating since.
When I press the power on button it lights up momentarily but no chime.
It did work for few hours after few days
I really like to revive it and I have done the following
1. Reset the PMU switch on logic board.
2. Replaced 3.7 Volt battery
3. Reseated all the PCI cards (Video, SCSI card, Ultra SCSI etc)
4. Checked the voltages on Power supply.
5. Cleaned all the dust (lot of it) on the fans and inside the tower.
Now I am planning to re-seat the processor card. For this I need to remove heat sink. I read in a website (http://www.jcsenterprises.com/Japamacs_Page/Blog/9AE7FE0E-0CF2-4A7C-8003-489B282 582BC.html) that *thermal compound* is a must.
But then in this forum and Apple Service manual I don't see any thermal compound mentioned for Heatsink for Powermac G4.
Now my concern is whether this is recommended step. I don't want to create new problems on top the existing ones.
I call on the experts...:)

Hi Japamac,
Thanks a lot for your help
I did put thermal compound and thought I had my G4 power mac back.
But now I have a dead machine which powered up once or twice.
I am guessing there is seating issue of CPU daughter board.
I did press firmly on the place where CPU pin attach to logic board
So my question instead of trying
1. Removing heatsink
2. Reseat CPU
3. Clean heat sink and apply compound
4. Put the heatsink
5. Pray and turn on the Powermac hoping I get it right this time
Can I just reseat CPU and then place the heatsink on Top and then turn on Power mac with out applying compound just for few minutes?
If it works then I apply comound and then put on heatsink. Then that is it .
Will the CPU go bad if I dont have compund on heatsink for few minutes..?
Appreciate your help

Pismo CPU upgrades/heat sink

Does anyone know if the 400 mhz heatsink and 500 mhz heatsink are interchangeable?
PowerMac G4 MDD 1.25 Ghz, PowerBook G3 Pismo 400, Newton 2100, iPod Photo 30 gb Mac OS X (10.3.9)

Hi Gerry:
Are you replacing just the heat sink, or the entire processor daughter-card? If the heat sink and tube only, yes, they are interchangeable. Be sure you apply a thin, even layer of thermal compound on the processor after removal of the old heat sink and before installation of the new.
Good luck.
cornelius
Message was edited by: cornelius

Lapping a cooler or heat sink

WHY DO IT
all cooler bases come from the factory machine finished,some are better than others,some are very rough and you can see the machine lines on them
now the best heat transfer takes place from direct metal to metal contact
so now you say well why then the cooler grease
well under the microscope the metals not flat one the cooler nor the cpu die
its covered in dips and peaks
so the bits that actually connect direct are a small percentage and there is air between then
now air is a very good insulator of heat
notice how close you can be to a fire before you feel the heat
so the thermal grease is used to push out the insulating air and bridge the gaps
but its still not as good as direct contact so thats why we lap to remove as much as possible the dips and hollows
LAPPING
get your self set up
you either need a nice glass table top,that you will not get shouted at for using
or a good thick flat bit of glass of cut from a local glass shop
this is the base you will work on
you need some wet and dry emery[some would say sandpaper]paper
in various grades 600 800 1000 may be 1200
a car body shop car accessory shop diy store all should have them
now dont as they are inclined to do let him rool them up you want them flat not all screwed up
basically you start with the roughest 600 and work down to the smoothest 1200
working with the paper flat on the glass the rough side facing up and using some soapy water on it as well
this helps it slide and stops the paper clogging up
try a figure of eight motion
dont force it most coolers are heavy enough its own weight will do it
keep it flat we dont want no round edges
once you have an evan texture with one grade then go on to the next one
once finished clean it as you normally would with isopropyl alcahol or what ever is your cleaner of choice before re fitting it
on some cheap coolers that have a very rough base to start it can make a lot of difference
there will be differences of opinions as to what grade of paper to go down to with some saying 800 is the finest you need and others saying evan finer than the 1200 i listed,well who is to say,the choice is yours,note the ultimate shine you see i some articles on this is not achieved with any sandpaper,a garage may have a buffer will do it if you want to go that far,but many say its actually counter productive

a metal polish sandwiched in between the hsf base and highest grid sandpaper will do the trick to create a mirror like finish...
stricly speaking, will lapping reallyl help practically?

Question about the heat sinks in these models

Hey all,
Can anyone tell me about the heat sinks used in these model laptops?
Here are my questions:
Are they made from pure copper?
What is inside the tubes that run between the processor covers and the fan? Is it just air? or something else?
Is the thermal paste that sticks to the processors toxic?
I'm not sure this is the right place to ask but thought i might as well try.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

you mean the entire T series range, or are you after information on a specific T model?
1) most of the parts are made of pure copper
2) there is a working fluid within heat pipe, which should either ethanol or acetone. The phase change from liquid to gaseous phase is what transports the heat away from CPU/GPU/motherboard chipsets.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_pipe
3) thermal paste usually contains silicon and silver, it is not to be ingested as such.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_grease
Regards,
Jin Li
May this year, be the year of 'DO'!
I am a volunteer, and not a paid staff of Lenovo or Microsoft

Best cleaning steps for g4 processor and heat sink?

I just pick up a dual 800 quicksilver cpu. What is the least expensive/best way to clean the die surfaces as well as the heat sink surfaces? Also does anyone know a link showing stable higher than originally rated speeds?

Hi pheidius-
The surface description is odd- I would expect it to be smooth (as all heatsink surfaces I have seen).
You may be correct on the thermal pad. It would be the only logical explanation..... I've never really "dissected" a thermal pad before- just scraped them off and tossed 'em.
If it is a thermal pad, you may have clearance problems with just thermal compound. This is, of course, dependant on the thickness of the previous pad......Just check the heatsink and it's contact on the processor after you have finished cleaning the thermal pad from the heatsink. It should be obvious if there will be clearance problems.
Recommended removal proceedure for a thermal pad is to use a plastic card (like a credit card) or a plastic putty knife.
When replacing thermal pads, after the old is completely removed, the heatsink surface needs to be heated until hot to the touch (use a heat gun), and then apply the new pad, pushing the pad on firmly and evenly.
Note: When using thermal pads, wait until the heatsink and pad are cool before removing the protective paper and installing on the processors.
If you end up using thermal compound, carefully apply the compound. Getting sloppy, and applying too much, especially with Arctic Silver, can cause problems. The compound is not just thermally conductive.......it is also electrically conductive.
Back to the overclocking question- This article may be of interest.

Static/crackling freezes/shuts down Toshiba L300 (already cleaned fan/heat sink)

Was slightly intermittent but pretty much unable to use the computer at this point. The only clues I can give is that there seemed to be 2 errors about usb so wondering if that could cause the static build up that freezes the computer? One was on shut down and the other was after static started and it seemed to be trying to grab a driver (for usb I think) almost as though the device disappeared but then the laptop froze. It wasn't too long ago one of three ports wasn't working but they all work recently (don't recall which one quit for a bit).
Unfortunately I need to fix it myself due to finances. How do I physically disconnect all the usb ports to rule them out? I probably did this when I took out the motherboard to clean the fan/heat sink but I don't know for sure which connection(s) they were.
If I'm way off please provide other suggestions. I REALLY appreciate any help given.

first off, please provide the entire model number of your computer. It is printed on the bottom. do not provide s/n.
Do you have a backup of all your personal data? If not, I would say that should be your priority at this point.
After that has been dealt with, the next question is "did you make restore disks when computer was still working?"
Can you get into recovery menu (spamming f8 on start up). If so, try going into safe mode and restoring the computer to a restore point at a point in time before the problems started.
When you cleaned fan/heat sink, did you reseat the heatsink. If not, you may want to open it back up and reseat the heatsink (i.e., remove old thermal paste and reapply).
L305-S5955, T9300 Intel Core 2 Duo, 4GB RAM, 60GB SSD, Win 7 Ultimate 64-bit

Has anyone ever needed to replace thermal compound in a G5 PPC CPU?

I have a 1st generation iMac G5 (PPC) which becomes unresponsive after it gets warm, ie., spinning beach ball. I know the video processor uses thermal compound to couple to its heat sink but do not know if the CPU uses it? Does anyone have experience with that?

Yes, a thin, very thin, coating of Arctic Silver should do the trick.

Heat Sink on MacBook Pro (mid 2012)

I recently acquired a mid-2012 MacBook Pro that is in need of repair. The device was advertised by the seller as needing repair, and I wanted to experiment in repairing such a problem.
The MBP suffered the symptoms of a failed logic board - no power, LEDs don't light up on either the side of the Mac or the MagSafe Adapter. Per the tutorial on Ifixit.com, I took a look inside the laptop and was able to safely remove the logic board. As I examined the heat sink and the thermal paste connecting it to the processor, I found that the paste had completely dried up. In other words, as I completed part 3 of Step 27 ("Carefully remove the heat sink from the processor."), the heat sink could be removed immediately after I unscrewed it from the logic board - no need to use the spudger to loosen the paste. While examining the interior, the battery also seemed to have signs of wear (the screw tab closest to the optical drive appears cracked); no damage/leakage of battery cells detected.
What are my options at this point? Will it be worth it if I try to clean the old paste from the heat sink & processor, then reapply as instructed (on ifixit.com or other reputable DIY repair sites)? Or, because the battery is slightly damaged in addition to the lack of processor-to-heat sink connectivity, would it be easier/better in the long run to make an appointment at my nearest Apple Store for a Genius Bar consultation?
Thanks for any advice & comments!

Re: Heat Sink on MacBook Pro (mid 2012)
created by PlotinusVeritas in MacBook Pro - View the full discussion
This solved my question This helped me
And why again are you worried about re-applying thermal paste to the heat sink to CPU on logic, ...since youve already indicated the logic board is fried....?
I assume you got a new logic and are asking about grabbing some white thermal paste off Ebay.....or?
... or I'm basically seeking the opinions of more experienced members of the Community (such as yourself ) that can verify my attempt to personally fix the device are not worth it, and are better left to Apple's Geniuses.
Actually, I haven't gotten a new logic board yet. More or less, I was taking it apart for inspectional purposes only. I wasn't intending to remove the heat sink, but the thermal paste was already worn out. I am not sure if the logic board is fried, though after examining the whole laptop some more, the previous owner may have tried to do some fixing/upgrading and failed (foam missing, a bracket for the HDD missing also). I was examining the logic board to determine if there have been any liquid damages to the machine - none found, to the best of my knowledge.

After applying thermal compound neither HD will boot.

This is too strange.. I installed a thermaltake hardcano5 about 3-weeks ago, which all went smoothly. Today I picked up some thermal compound (coolermaster premium t.c), which I applied to my heatsink as instructed, and then I layed the temp. sensor from the hardcano5 on the cpu (as instructed) and placed the heatsink on top. I closed up the case, powered up and the grub bootloader menu came up as usual, I scrolled down to winxp, hit enter and then was greeted by a blank black screen which stayed until I rebooted. I powered off and back up again and after choosing to boot xp again I was greeted by a blue screen which contained an apci error message, telling me to reboot. Again I rebooted and everytime since I get the blank, black screen. When booting linux the system locks after initializing the 2nd cdrom drive. (Please note, winxp / linux are on completely seperate drives). I am at a loss here, there were no changes made to the hardware, all that was done was positioning the heat sensor from the hardcano5 and applying the thermal compound. I am at a loss here and I need to get a number of c++ source files off one of the hdd's for class tomorrow, so any suggestions would be most appriciated. Thank you -
NicZak

If yo used silver grease, you may have shorted some of the bridges on the Athlon?? Too many people apply thermal compound as if they were buttering a sandwich. The thermal grease only has to fill the minute cavities on the surface of heatsink and CPU. therefore a microscopically thin layer will already do the job. More grease in some cases is worse then none.

T60/T60P Heat Sink Compount (thermal Grease, Thermal Compound) Part numbers?

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