Thermal paste for i7 3930k to Nuctua CPU cooler?

I'm considering using Arctic silver 5 as the thermal interface between my 3930k and Nuctua NH-DI4 SE 2011 cooler. Is Arctic silver 5 a good choice? (The 3930k will be overclocked).
I was to use Liquid Ultra , but Coolaboratory somehow botched my order, so it might not arrive for some weeks now.
A store nearby store has Arctic silver 5 in stock, and I could pick some up today, if it's a suitable thermal paste for my build.

That is what I bought when I built my computer... older, so mine is not a 3930, but the paste still works well
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835100007
With over 5 thousand people giving it 5 of 5 "eggs" I would say it is very good

Similar Messages

Thermal paste for HP Pavilion G-6

Do I need a specific type of replacement thermal paste for Hp Pavilion G-6? Came with gray/silver. (Replacing cooling fan only.)

Any time you break the connection between the heatsink and the CPU core you need to clean off all the residue and reinstall thermal compound. Rubbing alcohol and even an emery cloth is OK...needs to be clean and shiny. Any type thermal compound will work. I like Arctic Silver. The important thing is to install it properly. A thin coat is all you need. Thin and even across the whole top surface of the processor core.

THERMAL PASTE FOR DV6-6050 SE ?

SIR I HAVE GOT DV6-6050 SE NOTEBOOK PAVILION PC ....WHAT I WANTED TO KNOW IS THAT I HAD RECENTLY DISSASSEMBLED MY LAPTOP TO CLEAN MY HEAT SINK AND DUST INSIDE THE LAPTOP AS IT WAS GETTING HEATED UP A BIT AND I WAS ALSO PLAYING GAMES ....WHAT I WANT TO KNOW IS WHAT THERMAL PASTE SHOULD BE APPLIED ON MY DV6-6050 SE PAVILION NOTEBOOK.....ALSO I IF U CAN REPLY IS WHAT IS THE BEST THERMAL PASTE FOR MY NOTEBOOK AND BY DEFAULT WHAT THERMAL PASTE HP USES ON DV6 NOTEBOOKS.....

Hi,
A good thermal paste will do the job. Many people also discuss about this task:
http://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Notebook-Hardware-e-g-Windows-8/Pavilion-dv6-Overheating/td-p/304505/pa...
Good luck.
BH
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Make it easier for other people to find solutions by marking a Reply 'Accept as Solution' if it solves your problem.

Thermal paste for Pavilion Dv6 2030ev

Hello. Please, I tried 4 times to take off all parts and to put some thermal paste on my proseccor but it sems impossible. I arrive in a level where I can't find any other screw to continue. I can't find the proseccor. I broke up some parts but again I can't have access. I looked for videos on youtube for similar models but nothing. Please if anybody knows something let me know, I have big problem with the high temperature. thank you
This question was solved.
View Solution.

MANY thans. Although this not the same model, I follow the same instructions, I removed and the screen and I put thermal paste. 2 hours totaly! It's the worst model that I opened...
thank you

Thermal Paste for Power Mac G5

Hi!
I am looking for the right type of Thermal Paste to use in my Power Mac G5 (Late 2005) model 11.2. Have looked around the web but have only found related past to G3 and Power Book G4. Does anyone have a link to were I can by the right thermal paste?

Use Arctic Cooling MX-4.
Very long lived, high thermal conductivity, non-capacitive and non-conductive (electrically).
http://www.arctic.ac/en/p/cooling/thermal-compound/30/arctic-mx-4-4g-und-20g.htm l

Thermal paste redo...

i just got some more thermal paste for my desktop and will probably end up with plenty left over. I know people are saying that apple did a botched job with the MBP paste and that re-aplying the stuff helped with the heat issues. I know people have tried it and said it cooled temps initially. i'm just wondering if those who have tried it have anything new to report or if it really did work out for them and also is it worth it to pop open the case and try the move yourself. i just decided to check my temps, just started it up in an air-conditioned coffee shop, currently browsing at 40C. but i know that if i stayed here for a little while longer it will jump to 50C+ under normal usage.

Prior to embarking on the paste removal and reapplication journey, take heed to the warning I was given.
I called an Authorized Apple dealer in my city, and asked if the tech would be willing to reapply the thermal paste with AS5. He plainly replied that he would wouldn't do this job. The potential side-effects of possibly damaging the logic board were enough to scare him into simply suggesting I purchase one of the cooling boards to sit my MBP on.
I thought about it, installed the latest firmware updates, and I was second guessing my own initial reactions to reapply the paste. I'm happy, very happy with the machine as it is after the updates. I will avoid causing any problems for myself. If the Apple tech wasn't willing to do it, I don't think I should be either!
D.

Can a bubble in thermal paste make CPU temp range 39ºC-60ºC?

Hello.
I've read the postits above and they say 45 ºC idle is very likely the heatsink spreader is not properly seated or the temperature is wrong.
But, what if idle temp is about 39 on the heatsink (meassured with a termometer) and the bios says CPU temp is 39? Does that mean I did well with thermal paste and heatsink? Does that mean the motherboard is reading the righ temperature?
It could look like I am asking a very easy question, but I feel it is not. Just go on reading.
I need to know if BIOS does actually provide the rigth temp because:
When the system heats up due to CPU under heavy load, CPU temp goes up to 50-55 ºC sometimes even close to 60 ºC. Could that mean there is an air bubble within the thermal paste but it is too small to interfere when cold enough (40ºC) but big enough when warm (50ºC) lowering heatsink performance and rising CPU temp up to 60 ºC?
Also sys temp is very high. It never gets below 50 ºC but I do not know where that sys temp is taken, and as I have the NB-fan connector conected to the power supply fan, I do not know what that sys temp means. :(
Room temp is around 25 ºC.
It does boot OS and I can actually play games (heavy load for graphics card and CPU). All readings I take were got from CoreCenter application at stock settings (Vcore 1.42 - FSB 201 - Mem volt 2.5 - AGP volt 1.5).
I am afraid of having done a nice job with thermal paste. I know (just read it here) I could easily fry the CPU if not, and I feel 55-60 ºC is too much, isn't it? Of course if BIOS readings are right.
BTW. Here follow details on the system:
CPU: AMD 64 3000+ NewCastle
CPU Family/Model/Step: 15.12.0
Thermal compound: Artic Silver 5
CPU Heatsink: Thermaltake Silent Boost K
Motherboard: MSI K8N Platinum
Motherboard BIOS: 1.4 (08/26/2004)
Graphics Card: Sapphire ATI Radeon 9800 SE AIW (not modded in any way)
Power Supply: Enermax 465 W [EG-465AX-VE(W)FMA]
Case: Lian Li PC-V1000
Mem, hdd, dvd-rw, floppy and D-bracket are present but did not feel necesary to provide details on them.
Thanks

Well, if your heatsink is cold and your CPU temp on BIOS is hot there are two possible reassons:
[list=1]
BIOS 1.4 does not guarantee accurate CPU temp readings
Heatsink is not properly seated on the CPU or thermal paste has bubbles within[/list=1]
But that is not my situation. I do know CPU readings are accurate when it shows 39 ºC because I actually used a termometer in contact with the heatsink to meassure it.
What I am not sure is if that accuracy is so when the CPU is hot (>50ºC) as it is when cold (

Whether or not to change stock thermal paste on early 2009 unibody 17" MBP CPU?

I have a first generation (early 2009) unibody 17" MBP, now out of warranty / Apple Care. It's been working fine in general, however I've been increasingly concerned about the CPU temps when I encode with Hand Brake, and some times when doing things in VMWare (Win XP) and in OS X at the same time. Under those two sets of circumstances, my CPU temp (as read out by iStat Menus 3) routinely hits 100 C. (I've never seen it hotter than 102 - 103, it'll hang around 100 for a while, then eventually cool down to mid 90's as a new equilibrium seems to be reached. Will hang there until the processor intensive task is done, then quickly cool off.) Generally idles in the 40's.
I've looked and looked, and found no reassuring consensus on whether or not changing the stock Apple glob of thermal grease for a thin application of Arctic Silver will help this situation. I've found as many no's as yes's on the matter, and about as many different views on the details of MBP cooling as posters expressing them.
So, what I'm really looking for is whether or not anyone's collected a lot of data points on the subject, and can paint any sort of trend based upon a large denominator of users reporting their experiences. I did find links to a website that apparently did this in 2005, or thereabouts, but all those links are dead, and that was well before the dawn of the unibody anyway.
Was wondering if anyone knew of a source of knowledge on this issue that draws from more than educated hypothesis, or one's own experiences.
I'm already planning on routinely jacking up the fan speeds when doing these CPU heavy tasks, and I elevate the computer off the table to help with ventilation. Also, I've seen several people say that the CPU was made to handle these temps, however, I looked at the Intel data sheets on these processors (<http://download.intel.com/design/mobile/datashts/32012001.pdf>, page 102), and the max tjunction temp is 105C, which I'm getting awfully close to whenever I encode.
Thank you!
early 2009 17" MBP (very good condition)
2.93 Core 2 Duo
8 GB RAM
750 GB HD
latest Lion

I say go for it. About a year ago I had to replace the fan system on my old Dell i8200. To do that I had to take the complete system apart. So while I had everything out of the case, laying there in pieces/parts (including taking the heatsink system completely off the CPU/GPU) I cleaned everything and applied Arctic Silver to both CPU/GPU. System ran cooler then the first day I took it out of the box new.
Personally I would disregard the comment above. Yes you can use WAY to Much thermal paste but if you cover the complete CPU with a thin even layer (even if it is a little to much) it will still work fine, as long as you move the heatsink around when resetting it to even it all out.
From reports from other Mac users, the one that have Baked there logic boards to fix the 2008 NVidia problem that Apple refuses to stand up for, that when they took there systems apart there was thermal paste everywhere. Clearly Apple assemblers think that if a little is good a whole bunch is better. Which isn't the case. But what do they care. The assemblers need something like Macdonald's has for dispensing Ketchup. One squirt and you always get the same amount.
Go For It.
Good Luck.

What kind of thermal grease for CPU?

Hi everyone,
I dismantled my iMac G4 17" 1.25Ghz in order to change the DVD inside. And here I made the mistake: it was so dusty inside (I bought it second hand from a chain-smoker) that I decided to clean it. In the process, the thermal pipe got moved. So I tried to move it back into place and realized there were pins to align it. Don't ask how, but the metal clip that holds the double-pipe onto the CPU unclipped itself. So the processor was all visible. I decided to clean off the grease on it and apply thermal paste (arcticsilver 5) instead of whatever was there. And now I think it was the wrong stuff: the machine works but as soon as the workload increases, it freezes. If it sits there, idle, it's happy. But if I launch a Quicktime movie and play an iTunes track (70% CPU usage), it kernel panics after 10 minutes. Launch dnetc and it crashes within 3 minutes (95% CPU usage).
So here is my question: what kind of grease is used between the CPU and its thermal pipe? From what I saw, it was more like a grease than a paste. Does anyone know? I spoke to an Apple Center and the only thing they could tell me is that the machine needs a new logicboard. No way, let's do it myself, but with what compound?
Thanks for your help on that one!
Pierre

Pierre,
The Do-It-Yourself Mac: Between the thermal pipe and mating surface is a thin coat of silicon paste (known as thermal paste or heat-sink compound). This paste—available at electronics shops for around $5 a tube—helps eliminate air gaps between the surfaces, so heat goes out the pipe rather than into the iMac.Since it exhibits Kernel Panic behavior, read Resolving Kernel Panics, by Dr. Smoke for some tips.
;~)

Thermal paste goes on the bottom or top of cpu?

Hi, managed to get thermal paste on the bottom of a socket 775 cpu, wiped it off with a dry cloth but the pc will not go. Is it buggered? or is there something i can clean it with properly? (if i hold it in the right light can still see smears on the bottom)
Thanks
Hmm maybe ill try meths while im waiting for a reply.....

Well looks like you logged off.
Anyway, I wont ask how you got paste on the wrong side.
When I am installing a previously installed cpu I use alchohol on a Q-tip to clean the Chip and the heat sink. It has never appeared to cause any damage. I would try and limit the amount used though. The board side would be the most problematic as fibers from whatever you use might remain. perhaps some compressed air after you have swabbed it would clear it out. I would get a magnifying glass and inspect it carefully to make sure NOTHING is contaminating the socket. Also there are probably some surface mounted components on the contact side of the CPU. Check carefully to make sure there is no contamination there either.
I use Arctic Alumina paste. They used to have a good instruction page with pictures at www.arcticsilver.com Take a look.
Good luck

Thermal Paste on CPU

Okay guys, As you can see here towards the bottom of the CPU there is thermal paste spilled over onto the "circuits" is this bad? Should i send it back? Or can i clean it off just like normal? thanks!

So you bought it used and this is how it came? Hmmm....this is very common; not right but common. It likely will not cause a problem. I would clean it off with a clean lintless cloth and rubbing alcohol and let it dry before installing it properly with the BB sized drop of thermal paste that should be used. I assume it came with some kind of warranty?

Did you guys change the thermal paste of the CPU/GPU?

I saw lots of my friends change to IC DAIMOND thermal paste but in the end their GPU still go BOOM and burned.
Is it worth it ? because i do not know how to apply it and i dont want to void my warranty as well

I replaced my GE70 with IC Diamond. Seems to be working great after 4 months. Like Chiyawa mentions, you should be cleaning the fan, vents, and other dusty areas on a regular basis. I clean mine at least every month if not every 2 weeks. Just helps keep everything clean. But using the Cooler Boost certainly helps. I rarely run games without using that. Not a single glitch.
But in all fairness, I don't game all the time. Maybe 10+ hours per week. I also added 2 mSata drives and replaced the HDD with a Samsung 830 256gb ssd. I think this helps a lot with speed, weight, heat, and functionality of the laptop too. Was a no brainer. While I was in there to replace the drives, that's when I replaced the thermo with IC Diamond and also upgraded the Wifi to AC. Tried the killer but the AC was a tad bit faster.

MacBook Pro (mid 2010, 15", i5) - heat, thermal paste and genius bar...

Hi all,
I'd like some advice. I own a mid 2010 core i5 15" MBP which I purchased when they were released (April 2010 or something like that). Since then the laptop has worked more or less OK but it's always been plagued with high temperatures, 75C+ in idle... with basically nothing running or something light such as just Safari (*without* Flash, as I only open Chrome when a website I need doesn't work without Flash; everywhere else, for example YouTube etc, I just use the HTML5 version of the players). The fans stay almost always at 6K rpm, and only rarely they run at a lower speed - when for example I switch the laptop on after having left it switched off for a while, etc. So the fans seem to work OK and seem to respond to the temperature; I have even tried resetting SMC several times, but no difference.
It just looks like the CPU runs hotter than it should. I have default energy saving settings, and don't have any software installed that may keep the CPU running high - such as Caffeine, SmartSleep, etc. Anyway, even a clean install of the OS (Lion) won't make any difference. If I leave the laptop switched off for a while and I switch it on again, within a minute or two the temperature is high again even if I don't open anything else. Even if in the activity monitor there's nothing using a lot of CPU. The temperature also does go further up if I run something CPU intensive such as Handbrake.
While the laptop has worked almost always OK (I do think that some freezes or other occasional stability issues may also depend on temperature), I don't think it's running as well as it could / should from a temperature point of view.
I have read lots of discussions in here and elsewhere, and from direct experience with other laptops (Apple and not) in the past, I believe the issue may likely be related to poor application of the thermal paste. I could re-apply it (for example the AS5 or similar) myself very easily, but I don't want to void the warranty.
I have the 3-years Apple Care, but I have never needed to ask Apple for support before, so I don't know how it works.
Sorry for the lengty introduction... here's the questions:
- Can I just go to the nearest Apple Store (London, Regent St.) or am I *required* to book an appointment with the "genius" bar?
- Is it likely they will take into consideration my advice to reapply the thermal paste as this is quite likely the source of the problem?
- What is the likelihood that they may just replace my laptop with a newer one?
- Does the AppleCare entitle me with some particular privileges for what concerns support?
- I have also upgraded the RAM to 8GB a few months ago, and replaced the HDD (which I use as external drive) with an SSD. Do I need to restore the original components in the laptop before going to the AppleStore? Or is this not needed since RAM and HDD are user-replaceable parts?
Thanks a lot in advance for your help!
Vito

Hello V-MA!
I found this webpage: http://osx86.wikidot.com/known-issues#toc1
by googeling for "com.apple.NVDAResman"
Probably you have to remove the Geforce Grafic drivers as discribed here. But please wait until some others in the forum confirm this.
If you don't understand how to do these commands with Terminal, ask once again for help.
In your message you did not metion, that you just updated 1 hour and something your OS ("System uptime in nanoseconds: 6688834587150"). This is an important information.
marek

MBP and the Thermal Paste Discussions

I've read with interest the postings on this web site regarding the MBP heat issues and the possibility that too much thermal paste is causing that problem. I've spent quite a few years designing computer motherboards using Intel processor chips, and want to share some thoughts on the topic. I only mention my background because one thing this business has taught me is that we can all be easily mislead by our test data if our process for gathering the data isn't rigorous (and, believe me, I've learned that lesson many times).
First, the excess thermal paste is definitely a problem, regardless of whether it is the root cause of the heat issue. Some of the photos posted on the various web sites show thermal paste covering bypass capacitors on the chip carriers (the green fiberglass boards that carry the CPU and GPU die). Thermal pastes can cause stray capacitances that can interfere with circuit operation. Standard industry practice is to use only as much paste as is necessary to achieve a layer that is about as thin as a single layer of tissue paper (or less). The amount used by Apple is far too large, particularly because the paste in coming into contact with other electrical components and conductors. A common failure mode associated with degraded bypass capacitors is random (and unrepeatable) crashes due to corrupted digital data in the processor chip.
In addition, all thermal pastes contain various types of fluids. Over time, these fluids evaporate, and frequently they condense elsewhere inside a computer. When CD drives were first introduced years ago, a common cause of mid-lifetime failures was condensates on the optics of the laser. The condensation fogs the lens and interferes with the ability of the laser to focus while reading and writing data. The contamination was traced to outgassing by thermal pastes, greases, sulfurized elastomers, and similar items used to build the computer. (Note that the Apple service manual for the MBP refers to the thermal paste as “thermal grease”.) Consumer electronics manufacturers learned to minimize the use of such materials in computer designs. The amount of thermal paste shown in the Apple service manual is very large, and I wouldn't rule out that it might contribute to future DVD drive failures.
It is difficult to say, based on the available data, that reducing the amount of thermal paste actually contributes to improving the thermal behavior of the MBP. Part of the problem is that the procedure to remove the pastes involves disassembling the laptop, and this introduces the possibility that the disassembly/reassembly process is inadvertently fixing the problem.
First, the high case temperatures could be the result of loose or poorly placed thermal sensors. If the disassembly/reassembly process fixed a loose sensor, or loose sensor electrical connection, or placed the sensor in a better position, you would get lower case temperatures, and possibly (inadvertently) attribute this to less paste.
Second, the cooling system design in the MBP requires that the die caps on the chip carriers be pressed tightly against the pads on the heat sink, so that heat is transferred efficiently. If the MBP is not assembled properly, (i.e., if the logic board mounting screws are not properly torqued, or the logic board is not mechanically aligned properly to ensure a tight fit to the heat sink), it is possible that this will manifest itself as high case temperatures. In the Intel processor chips there are two paths for heat to travel – out of the die cap, and through the electrical contacts to the motherboard. If the die cap isn’t properly cooled, heat will instead go into the motherboard, and the case temperature will rise. There is a possibility that the disassembly/reassembly process will fix a loose or misaligned logic board problem, with the result that the case temp will be reduced.
Also, if you work through the details of the thermal model that results from excess paste, it's hard to see how it would result in more heat to the case and less to the heat sink. Most of the photos on the web appear to show thin paste on top of the die, indicating that there was probably a low thermal resistance path to the heat sink prior to disassembly. The excess paste to the sides will simply further reduce the thermal resistance between the chip carrier and the heat sink. I may be missing something, but it's hard to envision how this lower thermal resistivity between the CPU and the heat sink drives more heat into the case. But it is also possible that the disassembly process destroys evidence of the actual connection to the heat sink, so this failure mode is hard to judge.
The best way to determine if removing the excess paste is actually helping would be to measure the exhaust air temperature from the cooling fans before and after removing the excess paste. I haven't seen such data, but if it were taken, and showed that the exhaust air was at a significantly higher temperature after the fix than before it, then we would know that the fix worked. If not, then the heat is going elsewhere, and it is possible that fix has actually made things worse.
Finally, all the symptoms we're seeing can be explained by poor software calibration and/or incorrect software control of the CPU clock speed. I wouldn't rule out a software fix at his point.
I'm not saying removing the paste is not a fix, only that there are still open questions that remain to be answered. It would be hard for me to recommend that anyone rework an MBP for the thermal problem in the absence of additional data.
For myself, I own an MBP, and though I have access to an electronics lab and some great technicians, I intend to buy Applecare, and in the meantime wait for a fix (or at least more information) from Apple.
Best of luck to everyone who has this issue - thats what we get for being early adopters.
G5 2.5 DP Mac OS X (10.4)
G5 2.5 DP Mac OS X (10.4)
G5 2.5 DP Mac OS X (10.4)
G5 2.5 DP Mac OS X (10.4)
G5 2.5 DP Mac OS X (10.4)
G5 2.5 DP Mac OS X (10.4)

Well I replaced my thermal compound and the temperature on my cpu went down and the temperature of my case went down also. The fans also kick in sooner leaving me to believe that the heat is being properly distributed the heatsink whereas before it was not as there was too much thermal compound making it act like an insulator.
I cannot say if the exhaust air is any hotter, but I know overall my laptop is much more cooler and never gets extremely HOT. Even under heavy loads the areas where it used to get really hot, above f keys, palm area, underneath the MBP are not hot to the point where someone could burn themself at all.
I really do hope that Apple does address this issue because I could not live with the heat before, I always had to hook up an external keyboard because my hands got too sweaty from the palm rest and the keyboard. Now everything is operating like any other laptop I've owned and I am a very satisifed Apple user. Let's hope that Apple is really looking into it and will have a reasonable answers for all MBP users in a reasonable amount of time.

How can I successfully reapply the thermal paste in my MacBook Pro? (2008)

I'm having issues with keeping my computer cool, mainly while playing games like SC2 that require a good amount of power. I've downloaded fan control apps, bought cooling pads (usb powered) and still no luck in cooling this thing down. I recently learned that Apple for some reason applies the thermal paste too thick, which can cause the computers to be a lot hotter than they should be.
I'm not worried about voiding warranty, seeing as I don't even have a warranty. I've already opened it up to upgrade the ram and the hard drive so I know my way around inside there and have the stuff I need in order to do it properly.
What I need to know is where I can get the thermal paste, what kind I need, how it needs to be applied and with what (as well as how to get the old paste off), the steps I need to take in order to get to where this paste is even at inside the computer...etc.
If there's anyone who's already successfully pulled this off, lemme know how you did it and if it helped any. I've read there've been significant temp drops since reapplying it in a lot of these pros, so I'm just interested.

Hi
I’ve yet to remove the heatsinks of the CPU and GPU on my MBP. But I’ve replaced CPU and GPU heatsinks on my PC many times, so hopefully you’ll find my suggestions helpful.
1st use the laptop for a bit to get both the CPU and GPU warmed up so it will be easier to remove the heatsinks.
Remove the back cover and run your hands over the back side of the metal cover few time to get ride of any static charge that might be there (or any unprinted metal surface will do).
Remove the screws and heatsink one at a time. You might find the thermal past dried up (happens when company used cheap past and after computer is used for few years). Use tissues to wipe the past off both cores and heasinks.
You can also buy thermal past remover and clearer such as this:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Arctic-Silver-ArctiClean-Material-Purifier/dp/B000BKP306 /ref=pdbxgy_computers_textb
I normally use Arctic Silver Thermal Paste, I found it's the best past around, and everybody I know are happy with it.
There are two ways to apply the past. If your CPU is a Core2Duo, than you can just put a little bit on the center and press down with the heatsink. This is because the 2 cores on the CPU are located near the center of the processor so it does not matter if the edges are not covered with past.
Or if you want to play safe, you can cover the enter CPU with an even thin lay of past using a flat plastic card.
When it comes to thermal past, less is more, you only want little bit to cover up the metal cover on the processor. I say no more than 0.5 mm thick.
Cover the entire GPU with past as well, I’m not sure if the RAMs on your graphic card are cooled by the heatsinks. If they are, you might need some thermal pads for them.
You’ll find the whole process quite easy as long as you take your time. You can found lots of info on this with Google and Youtube.
Good luck and don’t forget to give the heatsinks a clean with a can of compassed air before you put them back on.

Thermal paste for i7 3930k to Nuctua CPU cooler?

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