Thermal paste question?

Just ordered my small pile of parts for a new NLE build.
I'm trying to hunt down weather or not Thermal paste is included in any of the parts.
I7-2600K?
Asus Motherboard?
Aftermarket coolermaster cooler?
If not included, does anybody have any suggestions for wich to buy?
Thanks
James

James,
There is no more than a couple of degrees C difference between the included thermal paste and most of the aftermarket pastes.The stock thermal paste, when correctly applied to the Hyper 212 Plus (you need to fill in the gaps between the heat pipes of the cooler's base and a little dab on the CPU), should be good for an overclock up to around 4.5 GHz or so.

Similar Messages

  • Macbook Pro Thermal Paste Question

    Here is an interesting read on the thermal paste question......
    http://www.macdevcenter.com/pub/a/mac/2006/05/23/thermal-paste-question.html?pag e=1

    Peter, thanks for that link.
    I had done a pretty extensive search of technical literature about thermal grease and had reached a similar conclusion. At best, reapplication of thermal grease results in a pretty small (I'll call it insignificant) improvement, and at worst results in damage and -- if so -- a voided warranty.
    Having been initially impressed by some of the "before" and "after" graphs by people who did the thermal grease "fix" I started experimenting with my own graphs.
    Guess what? I can easily crank out graphs from my unmodified MBP that are similar to or better than some of the "after fix" graphs. In other words, big deal.
    Apple has some very competent engineers for design and assembly of their computers. Given the components they have to work with, they set specifications intended to result in reliable operation. It's likely their specifications for application of thermal grease are backed by data on quality control and reliability. While those specifications may offend the aesthetic sensibilities of PC crankers, I've concluded the PC crankers have built up some urban myths about thermal grease that are not consistent with the actual technical literature on thermal grease.
    I'm able to work comfortably on my MPB for 10 to 12 hours days. It's fast. It's stable; still no freezes, panics or crashes while operating 7 days a week since March 30, when I received it. There are parts of the case that get hot to the touch but I don't need to touch them to use it. Case temperatures are similar to those reached by my 5-year old TiBook, so I'm not worried about component reliability (the HD in my MBP actually is in a cooler environment than the HD in the TiBook).
    My MBP isn't going to get the thermal grease "fix" unless Apple were to recommend it -- and I think that's unlikely.

  • Athlon64 Thermal Paste Questions

    I am getting ready to buy a K8N NEO2 Plat MB with an Athlon64 3500 CPU. Does the Retail CPU Box (HSF) come with AMD's thermal paste?
    I was considering buying Artic Silver 5 paste ...is there a difference between AMD's stock paste and A Silver 5 performance or should I just stay with the stock?
    Lastly, should I consider a decent 3rd party HSF before I start putting the CPU+MB together or is the AMD stock HSF adequate?

    Even with the swifttech cooler disaster still struck.  
    In an effort to investigate the dubiously high tempratures I was observing with my Newcastle CPU.  Decided firstly to check the HS was fitted OK and AS/T paste was correctly apllied.  The best was of doing this is to check your own work.  As I was trying to remove the HS from the CPU.  The whole thing came out at once.  And in the procedure bent some pins.
    To say I was devastated was an understatement.  So I sat there pondering in my gloom.  Incidentally covered in AS/TP, nice!  (I use cotton wool and nail varnish remover to clean up the TP-acetone will do.  Becarfull!).  
    I tried to fathom how to straighten out the pins.  Then realised I needed tweasers, I rushed in to the bedroom.  And clutched my tweasers.  That I use for plucking my eyberows.  And gentely began to straighten the pins, one by one.  Starting from the base of the pin I pulled up the stem working to the top.  Eventually I had straightened all of the damaged pins.  Even when examining the pins from all directions it was hard to notice any deviation.  
    Now, I came to fit the CPU back in to the mobo.  The damaged area would not seat in at all.  Not suprising really!  So while glowing under a spot light.  Lifting and gently tweaking the CPU in to the socket.  I eventually made the CPU sit down.  Then swiftly clamped it in.  
    While out I attached the end of two thermocouples of Lian Li T10 thermometer.  Too the lugs that attach the cooler to the mobo, and thus CPU.  I decided this was the best way of getting reasonably accurate temprature readings of the CPU.  Have done this sort of work in the lab many times!
    Dont give up with your bent CPU.  Get some good tweasers off your mum, sister, or wife.  Now everything works great
    By the way the tempratures Im now recording are quite intresting.  But a subject of an entirly different post.

  • Thermal Paste Thermal Tape Question Logic Board

    Howdy, I have a thermal paste question. Laptop in question: Powerbook G4 1.5ghz Bluetooth V 2.0. When installing the logic board, I know your're required to use the silver colored thermal paste on the main processor and it's heat sink. On the other chip however, ( I assume it's the video chip, it says Motorola on it), the original techs appear to have used something black, and it is thicker, and harder to remove and appears to be cut to size. My question is,...what is the black stuff used on the other processor with a copper heat sink? Is it black thermal tape, cut to size and if so, where do you buy it from? And do you apply a piece of tape on the video processor and on the copper heat sink? Or do you apply the thermal substance on only only one part either the video chip or the copper heat sink?

    The Kapton tape is available on eBay. So are the spudgers, Apple's "black sticks."
    Thank you!!!
    You helped me out in turn. I am endeavoring to restore my PowerBook to brand new condition (no scratches, no dings, nada) and that's the thing that's worrying me. The thermal paste issue. I never thought of it until I read your post.
    Irony is that I'm helping you in the process of helping myself. And you've helped me out by pointing out that that paste is available at RadioShack. I will go buy that now.
    (When I bought a bottom case on eBay, and then looked at iFixIt to see how to do it, I thought the thermal paste I already have would suffice. I have a tiny tube of it from a previous installation of a processor upgrade. Then after helping you with your posting, and then studying that picture, I realized that I may not have the right stuff and didn't want to touch a good logic board and the other innards just to have a scratch free bottom casing).
    Message was edited by: Pismo 900
    And I just also realized that we are talking to each other but the original poster is the one who needs the help. (I thought you were the original poster and I just looked. It's someone else).
    Sorry for invading your space brettkramer!

  • Thermal Paste Thermal Tape Question  Logic Board Installation

    Howdy, I have a thermal paste question. Laptop in question: Powerbook G4 1.5ghz Bluetooth V 2.0. When installing the logic board, I know your're required to use the silver colored thermal paste on the main processor and it's heat sink. On the other chip however, ( I assume it's the video chip, it says Motorola on it), the original techs appear to have used something black, and it is thicker, and harder to remove and appears to be cut to size. My question is,...what is the black stuff used on the other processor with a copper heat sink? Is it black thermal tape, cut to size and if so, where do you buy it from? And do you apply a piece of tape on the video processor and on the copper heat sink? Or do you apply the thermal substance on only only one part either the video chip or the copper heat sink?

    Hi
    You have landed in the iChatAV forum(apple instant messenger).
    Try the Powerbook forum http://discussions.apple.com/category.jspa?categoryID=120
    Tony

  • Replacing thermal paste R9 290 Gaming 4G, warranty question

    Hi! I would like to replace the thermal paste of my GPU. Does removing the cooler to do this voids the warranty? Moreover, can the thermal pads can be re-utilized?
    Thanks very much!

    Quote from: sales on 11-June-15, 12:52:04
    may someone confirm rma without sticker?
    I believe you were redirected to contact your card seller or local MSI office? >>How to contact MSI.<<
    Usually it does not void warranty if you remove it/break it (as its on a screw) but it still depends on the country you live in and its best to confirm with reseller(shop) or MSI office.

  • MacBook Pro (mid 2010, 15", i5) - heat, thermal paste and genius bar...

    Hi all,
    I'd like some advice. I own a mid 2010 core i5 15" MBP which I purchased when they were released (April 2010 or something like that). Since then the laptop has worked more or less OK but it's always been plagued with high temperatures, 75C+ in idle... with basically nothing running or something light such as just Safari (*without* Flash, as I only open Chrome when a website I need doesn't work without Flash; everywhere else, for example YouTube etc, I just use the HTML5 version of the players). The fans stay almost always at 6K rpm, and only rarely they run at a lower speed - when for example I switch the laptop on after having left it switched off for a while, etc. So the fans seem to work OK and seem to respond to the temperature; I have even tried resetting SMC several times, but no difference.
    It just looks like the CPU runs hotter than it should. I have default energy saving settings, and don't have any software installed that may keep the CPU running high - such as Caffeine, SmartSleep, etc. Anyway, even a clean install of the OS (Lion) won't make any difference. If I leave the laptop switched off for a while and I switch it on again, within a minute or two the temperature is high again even if I don't open anything else. Even if in the activity monitor there's nothing using a lot of CPU. The temperature also does go further up if I run something CPU intensive such as Handbrake.
    While the laptop has worked almost always OK (I do think that some freezes or other occasional stability issues may also depend on temperature), I don't think it's running as well as it could / should from a temperature point of view.
    I have read lots of discussions in here and elsewhere, and from direct experience with other laptops (Apple and not) in the past, I believe the issue may likely be related to poor application of the thermal paste. I could re-apply it (for example the AS5 or similar) myself very easily, but I don't want to void the warranty.
    I have the 3-years Apple Care, but I have never needed to ask Apple for support before, so I don't know how it works.
    Sorry for the lengty introduction... here's the questions:
    - Can I just go to the nearest Apple Store (London, Regent St.) or am I *required* to book an appointment with the "genius" bar?
    - Is it likely they will take into consideration my advice to reapply the thermal paste as this is quite likely the source of the problem?
    - What is the likelihood that they may just replace my laptop with a newer one?
    - Does the AppleCare entitle me with some particular privileges for what concerns support?
    - I have also upgraded the RAM to 8GB a few months ago, and replaced the HDD (which I use as external drive) with an SSD. Do I need to restore the original components in the laptop before going to the AppleStore? Or is this not needed since RAM and HDD are user-replaceable parts?
    Thanks a lot in advance for your help!
    Vito

    Hello V-MA!
    I found this webpage: http://osx86.wikidot.com/known-issues#toc1
    by googeling for "com.apple.NVDAResman"
    Probably you have to remove the Geforce Grafic drivers as discribed here. But please wait until some others in the forum confirm this.
    If you don't understand how to do these commands with Terminal, ask once again for help.
    In your message you did not metion, that you just updated 1 hour and something your OS ("System uptime in nanoseconds: 6688834587150"). This is an important information.
    marek

  • MBP and the Thermal Paste Discussions

    I've read with interest the postings on this web site regarding the MBP heat issues and the possibility that too much thermal paste is causing that problem. I've spent quite a few years designing computer motherboards using Intel processor chips, and want to share some thoughts on the topic. I only mention my background because one thing this business has taught me is that we can all be easily mislead by our test data if our process for gathering the data isn't rigorous (and, believe me, I've learned that lesson many times).
    First, the excess thermal paste is definitely a problem, regardless of whether it is the root cause of the heat issue. Some of the photos posted on the various web sites show thermal paste covering bypass capacitors on the chip carriers (the green fiberglass boards that carry the CPU and GPU die). Thermal pastes can cause stray capacitances that can interfere with circuit operation. Standard industry practice is to use only as much paste as is necessary to achieve a layer that is about as thin as a single layer of tissue paper (or less). The amount used by Apple is far too large, particularly because the paste in coming into contact with other electrical components and conductors. A common failure mode associated with degraded bypass capacitors is random (and unrepeatable) crashes due to corrupted digital data in the processor chip.
    In addition, all thermal pastes contain various types of fluids. Over time, these fluids evaporate, and frequently they condense elsewhere inside a computer. When CD drives were first introduced years ago, a common cause of mid-lifetime failures was condensates on the optics of the laser. The condensation fogs the lens and interferes with the ability of the laser to focus while reading and writing data. The contamination was traced to outgassing by thermal pastes, greases, sulfurized elastomers, and similar items used to build the computer. (Note that the Apple service manual for the MBP refers to the thermal paste as “thermal grease”.) Consumer electronics manufacturers learned to minimize the use of such materials in computer designs. The amount of thermal paste shown in the Apple service manual is very large, and I wouldn't rule out that it might contribute to future DVD drive failures.
    It is difficult to say, based on the available data, that reducing the amount of thermal paste actually contributes to improving the thermal behavior of the MBP. Part of the problem is that the procedure to remove the pastes involves disassembling the laptop, and this introduces the possibility that the disassembly/reassembly process is inadvertently fixing the problem.
    First, the high case temperatures could be the result of loose or poorly placed thermal sensors. If the disassembly/reassembly process fixed a loose sensor, or loose sensor electrical connection, or placed the sensor in a better position, you would get lower case temperatures, and possibly (inadvertently) attribute this to less paste.
    Second, the cooling system design in the MBP requires that the die caps on the chip carriers be pressed tightly against the pads on the heat sink, so that heat is transferred efficiently. If the MBP is not assembled properly, (i.e., if the logic board mounting screws are not properly torqued, or the logic board is not mechanically aligned properly to ensure a tight fit to the heat sink), it is possible that this will manifest itself as high case temperatures. In the Intel processor chips there are two paths for heat to travel – out of the die cap, and through the electrical contacts to the motherboard. If the die cap isn’t properly cooled, heat will instead go into the motherboard, and the case temperature will rise. There is a possibility that the disassembly/reassembly process will fix a loose or misaligned logic board problem, with the result that the case temp will be reduced.
    Also, if you work through the details of the thermal model that results from excess paste, it's hard to see how it would result in more heat to the case and less to the heat sink. Most of the photos on the web appear to show thin paste on top of the die, indicating that there was probably a low thermal resistance path to the heat sink prior to disassembly. The excess paste to the sides will simply further reduce the thermal resistance between the chip carrier and the heat sink. I may be missing something, but it's hard to envision how this lower thermal resistivity between the CPU and the heat sink drives more heat into the case. But it is also possible that the disassembly process destroys evidence of the actual connection to the heat sink, so this failure mode is hard to judge.
    The best way to determine if removing the excess paste is actually helping would be to measure the exhaust air temperature from the cooling fans before and after removing the excess paste. I haven't seen such data, but if it were taken, and showed that the exhaust air was at a significantly higher temperature after the fix than before it, then we would know that the fix worked. If not, then the heat is going elsewhere, and it is possible that fix has actually made things worse.
    Finally, all the symptoms we're seeing can be explained by poor software calibration and/or incorrect software control of the CPU clock speed. I wouldn't rule out a software fix at his point.
    I'm not saying removing the paste is not a fix, only that there are still open questions that remain to be answered. It would be hard for me to recommend that anyone rework an MBP for the thermal problem in the absence of additional data.
    For myself, I own an MBP, and though I have access to an electronics lab and some great technicians, I intend to buy Applecare, and in the meantime wait for a fix (or at least more information) from Apple.
    Best of luck to everyone who has this issue - thats what we get for being early adopters.
    G5 2.5 DP   Mac OS X (10.4)  
    G5 2.5 DP   Mac OS X (10.4)  
    G5 2.5 DP   Mac OS X (10.4)  
    G5 2.5 DP   Mac OS X (10.4)  
    G5 2.5 DP   Mac OS X (10.4)  
    G5 2.5 DP   Mac OS X (10.4)  

    Well I replaced my thermal compound and the temperature on my cpu went down and the temperature of my case went down also. The fans also kick in sooner leaving me to believe that the heat is being properly distributed the heatsink whereas before it was not as there was too much thermal compound making it act like an insulator.
    I cannot say if the exhaust air is any hotter, but I know overall my laptop is much more cooler and never gets extremely HOT. Even under heavy loads the areas where it used to get really hot, above f keys, palm area, underneath the MBP are not hot to the point where someone could burn themself at all.
    I really do hope that Apple does address this issue because I could not live with the heat before, I always had to hook up an external keyboard because my hands got too sweaty from the palm rest and the keyboard. Now everything is operating like any other laptop I've owned and I am a very satisifed Apple user. Let's hope that Apple is really looking into it and will have a reasonable answers for all MBP users in a reasonable amount of time.

  • Early 2011 MacBook Pro- The thermal paste discussion.

    It is my goal to clear up the questions and concerns Apple customers have been having regarding heat or fan related concerns with Early 2011 MacBook Pros. If your MacBook Pro was produced within the last few months the thermal issue has been resolved and it will likely not be in issue for you. If you are still wondering if your computer is effected or what the real issue is keep reading.
    The MacBook Cools itself by 2 main methods: active and passive. The active cooling is via a fan that blows air through a heatsync and into a tube called a heat pipe which leads to the back of the computer where the hot air is discharged through a vent at the bottom of the screen behind the hinge. The fan lowers the air pressure inside the case causing outside air is drawn in the case, displacing the hot air inside and helping to cool the other components.
    The computer uses passive cooling to remove the residual heat from the processor which comes mostly in the form of radiant heat. Passive cooling is also used to cool the other components of the computer (memory, disk drives, battery etc). Passive cooling works by conductive heat transfer ie. syncing to the case of the computer. Some of the heat then is radiated. Some of it is transferred from the outside of the case via convective cooling; the foot pads on the bottom cover are designed to raise it up just enough to allow air underneath for convection to occur. (Convection is the process in which hot air to rises and is displaced by cooler air.) The rest of the heat from the bottom cover is absorbed by whatever surface you have the computer on.
    The processor will not sync to the case very much if the board is assembled properly however the other components of the computer will, requiring the case to be in open air to allow for passive cooling to take place.
    If you have some sort of covering such as a plastic snap on case it will likely interfere with passive cooling in all of it's 3 of it forms, this will cause the computer to be abnormally hot. I recently saw someone in the Apple store with a MacBook Air experiencing abnormal heating due to a plastic snap case so this particular problem is not unique to MacBook Pros and it is not the cause of the issue being discussed here. I do not recommend the use or anything that covers the computer while it is running with the exception of something that covers the back of the display panel only. If you are worried about your computer getting damaged go and buy a laptop insurance policy from Worth Ave group. The insurance does not cover cosmetic damage or misplaced items but will cover accidental damage including spills. This insurance also covers theft, vandalism and natural disasters, is quite inexpensive and the claims process and deductible  is similar to most phone insurance plans (which they also offer).
    User induced overheating can also occur when the computer is placed on an improper surface such as a couch cushion, car seat, bed, pillow etc. Doing this can interfere with both passive and active cooling.
    As I mentioned earlier In all likelihood if your computer was produced after May it is not affected. I personally have been in posession of 3 MacBook Pros, one produced before May which had the problem, one after which had no problems and one produced more recently that has mind blowing thermal performance way beyond all of my expectations.
    So the question at this point is exactly what is the problem, how can it be diagnosed and how can it be rectified.
    After extensive research and testing I have determined the issue to be related to improper application thermal paste. I involuntarily became involved in this pursuit as a result of the problems I was experiencing and I did not initially come at from an objective viewpoint but rather one of cautious skepticism. I had anticipated before purchasing my computer that there may be a thermal issue. This anticipaion came as a result of reading an article on ifixit.com about the disassembly of the brand new early 2011 MacBook Pro. When the technician performing the disassembly removed the main heat sync he expressed concern about how much much thermal paste was present, expressing that it seemed excessive. This lead the technician to question wether or not it would cause heating problems.
    Proper application of thermal paste is critical to the functionality of the active cooling system and when applied improperly will not properly transfer the heat to the heat-sync which in turn gets cooled by the fan. Proper application of thermal paste insures the heat is removed from the case as efficiently as possible. Doing this both reduces the speed at which the fan needs to run in a lot of situations and prevents too much heat from the processor needing to be cooled by passive means. If is is not applied properly it will eventually lead to overheating of the case as well as the other components of the computer. This can cause damage firstly to the computer's battery and can also significantly shorten the life computer. (Or any other kind of electronic device for that matter.)
    The problem can be diagnosed by testing the computer using a program called System Load or any other software that will put your computers proscessor use up to its maximum and keep it there indefinitely. Placing full load on your GPU at the same time during the test is also recommended. Keep in mind, if you are using your computer the fan will spin up if needed for additional cooling. You should expect the fan go up to its maximum speed during the test, it is not in of itself an indication of a negative result. Make sure to have the computer plugged in, fully charged and on a proper surface. A desk or other flat surface should be fine. Exceptions would include the top of a refrigerator since it has insulation just underneath the metal exterior or any surface that is heated by any means such as a dryer or other appliance.
    (The temps to follow are in ºF)
    Run the test for up to 1 hour. If the case of the computer breaks 93 degrees your unit is likely affected. Expect the unit to even possibly reach temps approaching and exceeding 100º, if this happens immediately abort the test. Also look for the processor temp shooting up to around 180 in the first 30 seconds and the fan spinning up right away. Typically on a properly functioning unit the temperature of the case will end up being somewhere in the neighborhood of 88-91º. If this test is preformed in a room with a normal ambient room temperature of about 68 degrees. Even after an hour the case of the computer should not be significantly hot, just warm to the touch. On a normally operating unit the fan will start to kick in within 90 seconds or so and may not reach full speed even after several minuets.
    At one point the case of my computer actually reached 95º during normal web browsing.
    This is a problem that I have had successfully corrected twice by reapplication of thermal paste. The first time was on a machine produced prior to may and the second was after a logic board was replaced at the repair depot. (I suspect the inventory turnover is lower for boards than whole computers resulting in a board from the initial production run being installed in my computer.)
    If you forget everything I just wrote remember this. #1 if you are using your computer hard enough the fan will end up running at high speed at some point. #2 This problem is not in any way related to the design of the MacBook Pro, or its use/application. #3 This mostly not a problem of the CPU being too hot; these Sandy Bridge CPUs are rated for 212ºf and will routinely be in the neighborhood of 200º, this is hotter than other chips but well within design limits. #4 I have done everything in my power to make sure that this problem has been corrected and I have every logical and evidenced based reason to believe it has been resolved in machines produced after may. #5 This is not an Apple acknolidged issue. Technicians will tell you that there is no problem because these higher temps are normal and within operating limits and if they weren't the machine would shut itself off. (This is a bit extreme; just like a lot of other devices such as electronics, toaster ovens and space heaters with thermal overload protection this automatic shutoff is intended to occur when damage or risk of fire is imminent because the device is WAY outside of normal operating paramaters.) They will also not tell you when asked what these limits are, that they know what they are or in some cases that such figures they even exsist.
    I stake my personal and professional reputation on the accuracy of my findings, it is my job as a private consultant to help my clients to resolve complicated and expensive issues just like this one.
    Bottom line if you are having a problem and Apple won't fix it on warranty don't ditch your machine, just pay to have it done yourself. In most cases you can pay have it done at the Apple store. It will probably cost you less than 100.00, and it will not void your warranty as long as the work is done by Apple certified technician. It will be well worth it; after all in spite of this MacBook Pro's are hands down the best portable computers on the market, with an industry leading warranty and support to back it up. On it's worst day Apple's service and support is better than any computer/ consumer electronics company, even on its best day.
    I hope this helps to clarify this issue! I also hope it will help anyone affected to resolve the problem instead of resorting to a refund and settling for something else.

    hello all
    you can try this:
    Go to system preferences > settings > built in display >  see bottom of window.
    check "show mirroring options in the menu bar when available". then click "airplay display" > and select your device.
    That's what happened to my MBP - 15-inch, Late 2011 model.

  • Can a bubble in thermal paste make CPU temp range 39ºC-60ºC?

    Hello.
    I've read the postits above and they say 45 ºC idle is very likely the heatsink spreader is not properly seated or the temperature is wrong.
    But, what if idle temp is about 39 on the heatsink (meassured with a termometer) and the bios says CPU temp is 39? Does that mean I did well with thermal paste and heatsink? Does that mean the motherboard is reading the righ temperature?
    It could look like I am asking a very easy question, but I feel it is not. Just go on reading.
    I need to know if BIOS does actually provide the rigth temp because:
    When the system heats up due to CPU under heavy load, CPU temp goes up to 50-55 ºC sometimes even close to 60 ºC. Could that mean there is an air bubble within the thermal paste but it is too small to interfere when cold enough (40ºC) but big enough when warm (50ºC) lowering heatsink performance and rising CPU temp up to 60 ºC?
    Also sys temp is very high. It never gets below 50 ºC but I do not know where that sys temp is taken, and as I have the NB-fan connector conected to the power supply fan, I do not know what that sys temp means. :(
    Room temp is around 25 ºC.
    It does boot OS and I can actually play games (heavy load for graphics card and CPU). All readings I take were got from CoreCenter application at stock settings (Vcore 1.42 - FSB 201 - Mem volt 2.5 - AGP volt 1.5).
    I am afraid of having done a nice job with thermal paste. I know (just read it here) I could easily fry the CPU if not, and I feel 55-60 ºC is too much, isn't it? Of course if BIOS readings are right.
    BTW. Here follow details on the system:
    CPU: AMD 64 3000+ NewCastle
    CPU Family/Model/Step: 15.12.0
    Thermal compound: Artic Silver 5
    CPU Heatsink: Thermaltake Silent Boost K
    Motherboard: MSI K8N Platinum
    Motherboard BIOS: 1.4 (08/26/2004)
    Graphics Card: Sapphire ATI Radeon 9800 SE AIW (not modded in any way)
    Power Supply: Enermax 465 W [EG-465AX-VE(W)FMA]
    Case: Lian Li PC-V1000
    Mem, hdd, dvd-rw, floppy and D-bracket are present but did not feel necesary to provide details on them.
    Thanks

    Well, if your heatsink is cold and your CPU temp on BIOS is hot there are two possible reassons:
    [list=1]
    BIOS 1.4 does not guarantee accurate CPU temp readings
    Heatsink is not properly seated on the CPU or thermal paste has bubbles within[/list=1]
    But that is not my situation. I do know CPU readings are accurate when it shows 39 ºC because I actually used a termometer in contact with the heatsink to meassure it.
    What I am not sure is if that accuracy is so when the CPU is hot (>50ºC) as it is when cold (

  • G710 Thermal Paste on GPU? I thought thermal paste on GPU's on laptops was a no no?

    Hi all,
    I'm a little puzzeled. I thought GPU's usually had thermal pads on laptops. Is it ok to apply thermal paste to the GPU on the G710 model (i3 model); or should I certainly be using a thermal pad?
    I'm applying Arctic Cooling MX4 Thermal Paste to the CPU you see as I'm sure this will do better than the default applied.
    Thanks
    Thanks for any help in advance, Pete
    Solved!
    Go to Solution.

    hi pete_agreatguy,
    Thanks for Posting!
         Yes, Thermal paste are known to conduct more heat that the pad / tape. so less heat,
    The only advantage of the thermal pad are avoiding accidental cunduction using conductive paste and also easier to apply.
       The one you got is a non coductive paste and very easy to apply so, I bet that really is condsidered an upgrade.
    Cheers!
    Solid Cruver
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  • HP Pavilion ZV5000z thermal Paste

    Is there a video or step by step instructions on how to renew the thermal paste in this laptop?
    This question was solved.
    View Solution.

    This one is pretty good. Your processor may look slightly different. This is a "lidded" processor with a metal cover over the whole processor die. Yours may be lidless, where you can see the green circuit board part outside a metal core. I posted a picture of that kind of processor in response to another one of your questions. 
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qum1WSJUx0E
    Let me know if you still have questions after this. 
    If this is "the Answer" please click "Accept as Solution" to help others find it. 

  • New Motherboard Replace: Part Numbers? and thermal paste?

    I am replacing a new motherboard in my computer
    -How do I take off the old thermal paste from the CPU and fan, do I use a paper towel? Or is there something safer?
    -And how do I put on the new thermal paste and how much of it should I put on the CPU?
    -Also what is the difference between  a motherboard that reads on it in the middle:
    MCP61PM-HM REV:2.2
    15-V06-012200
    and another motherboard that reads:
    MCP61PM-HM REV:2.2
    15-V06-01221
    basically that last number on each motherboard, what does it mean and what's the difference between each motherboard?

    Otwa, welcome to the forum.
    Here is a very good video to help you with removing the thermal paste:
    It is basically an advertisement for Arctic Silver products, but Paul from Newegg always does a great job of making a guide.  I have been an overclocker for years and have always used Arctic Silver products.  The two part kit of remover is new to me and something to try next time I replace the paste on a CPU.
    I believe that there should be another number in 15-V06-01221.  It should be 12201.  If this is correct, I may be able to answer your questions.
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  • Applying thermal paste

    Simple question: I'm interested in applying Arctic Silver 5 to my MacBook Pro 17, as I usually do on all my laptops. (Main reason: every single manufacturer ***** at applying "el cheapo" thermal paste to their laptops. Apple isn't the exception.) Will this void my warranty?
    Thanks;

    You want to apply that to the interior of a MBP? If yes I'm pretty certain that would totally void any Apple warranty you had.
    Here is a link to the warranty, I think if you read it you will see what I mean.
    It specifically says, *"This warranty does not apply: (g) to a product or part that has been modified to alter functionality or capability without the written permission of Apple;"*
    http://images.apple.com/legal/warranty/docs/cpuwarranty.pdf
    Regards,
    Roger

  • Add thermal paste ?

    Simple question ...
    I'll get in a week or 2 a K8& Neo2 F with an AMD athlon 64 3200+.
    I'd like to know If I need to add thermal paste on the CPU, or if there is some coming woth the FAN with a sticker to remove ?
    Many Thanks !

    I have found that is useful to have a syringe of thermal paste around because if you don't quite seat the heatsink then you have to reapply the stuff.
    I use Akasa 450 Silver and has never let me down and is cheaper than AS5, I got a big tube of that from eBay for about £1.50.
    Avoid Stars 700 if you are the sort of person that does not enjoy ultra high temperatures, frequent BSOD and lots of heat and sluggish performance, I bought an emergency sachet of that crud and it was like silver wax, a CPU that usually idles around the 30 mark never idled under 40 and peak getting near the sixty was scary.
    I saw that on Newegg that I was not the only one either although surprisingly it was the AMD customers that had the problem, the old Celeron's thought it pretty good stuff.
    There is a review out there somewhere where an enterprising chap reviewed Stars 700 alongside salad cream, mayonnaise, toothpaste and it performed very badly indeed against these comestible products...
    Thermaltakes white goop was very good when I had some.
    AO

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