Time to upgrade to Full Frame

Team,  I currenlty own a 70D and a T3i with a bunch of EF-s lenses. My question is wether to upgrade to a couple of L lenses or upgrade to a full frame camera.  Ideally I love to have a Mark III but a 6D is more realistic.   My budget is about $3500 I do real estate photography with some portrait side gigs on the side, no weddings or big projects.  Will it make sense to keep my 70D with some prime lenses for portrait photograpy?  or go full frame is there much of a difference if i used a 70-200 2.8L lens on a 70D then a 6D?  your help and expertise is greatly appreciated.  

Unless you want to get into really high end real estate photography, I'd suggest you stick with your 70D for now and start gradually changing your lens line-up, with a goal to build a system that will eventually allow you to add a full frame camera to use alongside the crop sensor camera. There are advantages and limitations with both sensor formats. I use both crop sensor and full frame cameras (a pair of 7D and a 5DII in my case, right now). I prefer the crop camera for sports/action and anything requiring longer telephoto lenses. And I like the full frame for landscape, architecture, portraiture and sometimes for macro work. One of the reasons I choose the full frame for portraiture is control over depth of field. Now, DoF is governed by lens focal length, working distance and lens aperture.... it doesn't actually change due to different sensor formats. However, in order to frame a subject the same way with a full frame camera, it's either necessary to use a longer focal length or move closer to the subject, or a little of both. Changing either distance or focal length will tend to render shallower depth of field. Conversely, full frame cameras can use smaller apertures before diffraction becomes an issue, so a FF also has some advantage for macro work or for landscape/architecture where great DoF is often wanted.  In generaly, there's a bit less lens selection for FF, though it's still quite extensive in the Canon system. This is because a FF camera can only use EF lenses, while your crop sensor 70D and my 7Ds can use both EF-S/crop-only and EF/full-frame-capable lenses. Also in general lenses for FF cameras will be larger, heavier and more expensive. It's most noticeable with telephotos, of course, but to some extent is true even with wide angle. IMO, on 70D a 70-200mm is a bit long for a lot of portraiture work. My most prefered lenses for portraits with a crop sensor camera are 50/1.4, 85/1.8 and 24-70/2.8. On full frame, my most frequently used portrait lenses are 85/1.8, 135/2, 70-200/4 and 70-200/2.8. Sure, there are times that wider and longer lenses can be useful for certain types of portraits. But these are what I use most often and feel are the most basic or "traditional" focal lengths for the purpose. Short telephotos generally render the most ideal perspective for portraits. Also, I mostly shoot candid portraits, not posed. Because that often means working with less than desirable backgrounds, I prefer larger aperture lenses that allow me the option to blur down distractions behind (and sometimes in front of) the subject. If shooting in studio or more posed at a planned location, with more control over the background and other elements, it would be different and large aperture lenses would be less necessary. Real estate photography work often calls for a wide angle and a lot of depth of field. With your crop camera, the EF-S 10-18mm you've got probably sees a lot of use. If you were shooting full frame, you'd probably want EF 16-35/2.8 or EF 16-35/4... or EF 11-24/2.8 (but that would use up most of your budget and not leave room to buy a camera to use it on).  Tilt shift lenses such as the TS-E 17/4 and TS-E 24/3.5 II are also top choices for architectural photography. Compare size, weight and prices. Also, if you use filters a lot, some require larger (16-35/2.8 II uses 82mm) and the TS-E 17/4 and EF 11-24/2.8 both have stongly convex front elements that won't allow standard screw-in filters to be used at all. There aren't many truly wide lenses for crop cameras that are also FF compatible. The EF 11-24/2.8 is one of very few. The EF 14/2.8 II is another. So, to use the crop camera for wide angle shots, you'll probably want to keep at least one or two EF-S/crop only lenses. The EF-S 10-22mm is an older lens than the EF-S 10-18mm, but is a little better built and with more edge-to-edge image sharpness... it's one of the best ultrawides made by anyone... but costs about 2X as much. If it were me, I'd prefer the Canon EF-S 17-55/2.8 IS USM over the Sigma 17-70... but once again this is a "crop only" lens. For dual format purpose, one of the 16-35mm or the EF 17-40/4 might replace it better and be able to serve on both camera formats. I use a little longer 24-70 and 28-135 as my "walk around" or mid-range zooms.    6D is a nice camera and, compared to 70D, would be desirable for very large prints or for low light/high ISO shooting situations. That's because full frame images need less magnification for enlargement and use bigger pixel sites that capture more fine detail, both of which allow for bigger prints. Not that you'd notice much difference with 13x19 or smaller prints. And certainly you wouldn't be able to tell any difference at Internet resolutions if a lot of your stuff ends up on websites. Because the FF camera's 20MP sensor is so much less crowded than the 20MP crop sensor, there is less heat and less cross talk, making for cleaning or less noise in very high ISO images. The difference would be most noticealbe at ISO 1600 and above.   The 70D has a more sophisticated and versatile AF system, except that the 6D's can still manage to focus in one or two stops lower light (center point only). 70D has 19-point AF that's similar to original 7D, active matrix focus screen, and zone focus in addition to the all points/auto and single point/manual focus patterns offered by all Canon DSLRs. The 6D only offers the last to focus patterns, doesn't have zone, and it has a fixed (but interchangeable with a few types) focus screen. 70D's active matrix focus screen makes possible the camera's  "grid on demand" feature that can be turned on or off via the menu, and which can be quite handy when shooting architecture inside or out. With 6D you can get similar grid in the viewfinder, but to do so would need need to swap out with a separately sold, accessory "D" type focus screen. In 70D all nineteen AF points are the more sensitive dual axis/cross type, with the center one enhanced for f2.8 and faster lenses. 6D's eleven AF points have only one dual axis/cross type... the center point... while all the others are single axis type. Either camera's AF system is probably more than adequate for what you say you shoot primarily. If you were shooting sports/action/wildlife/birds, the 70D's AF system would likely be more ideal, though... so I'd rate it as more versatile. The 6D's would be a better choice for low light work, though. 70D also has articulated LCD screen and built-in flash, while 6D has neither of those features. The 70D and 6D share batteries, chargers, memory and have mostly similar control layouts, always nice when using two different cameras interchangeably for various purposes. So, if it were me, I'd probably keep shooting with the 70D and work on lens upgrades first, then add the FF camera later. But that's just me. Your needs might be different and call for another approach. ***********
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & EXPOSUREMANAGER   

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    The LENS that provides 40 degree angle of view coverage on a "full frame" camera turns out to be a 50mm lens.  Images taken with such a lens will seem neither stretched out nor compressed... they'll seem "normal" to your brain.  Also, if you can see an object without having to look around to take in the view, then your camera can "see" it with that lens.  
    A "full frame" camera is one which has a sensor size which is approximately the same as a single frame of 35mm film.  The dimensions are roughly 36mm x 24mm.  
    There are many different crop frame sizes, but for DSLR cameras, the most popular (by far) is the APS-C size.  This means the sensor is roughly the same size as a single frame for the "Advanced Photo System - Classic" film.   You can think of this as being roughly 21mm x 14mm (although it varies by a just a few millimeters -- on your camera it's really 22.3 x 14.9mm).
    If you were to use a movie projector and movie screen and you projected an image so that it fit perfectly on a 12' x 8' screen and called that "full frame", then a "crop frame" would be derived by shriking the movie screen down to about 8' wide by about 5-1/3' tall but (and here's the key) without doing ANYTHING to the movie projector.  Essentially that means you're projecting an image intended to fit ona 12x8' screen... but the real screen is smaller.  What happens to the part of the image that doesn't fit on the screen?    It just spills off the sides and is lost.  That is EXACTLY what happens inside a crop-frame camera.
    Canon EOS "EF" lenses are designed to project an image large enough to fill a full-frame sensor ... so when used on a crop-frame camera some of that image just spills off the sides.   This means that if your lens was providing a 40 degree angle of view (measured horizontally) then the crop-frame is only capturing the 26 degrees in the middle of it.  If you want a 40 degree angle of view again... you'll need to change lenses.
    And this is where your author suggests a 35mm lens is "normal" for a camera with an APS-C body.  The math actually works out in the neighborhood of a 31mm lens, but nobody actually makes a 31mm lens... and a 35mm focal length (commonly available) is pretty close.  Also 28mm lenses are commonly available and are ALSO pretty close.  It's my personal opinion that 28mm is probably a bit more normal than 35mm, but that's because as an avid amateur astronomer, I am fairly used to looking through Plossl design eyepieces which provide a 50 degree apparent angle of view and my eye actually can see the edges of the frame, but if I go a bit wider... I can no longer see the edges of the field without "looking around" (regardless... 40 degrees seems to be the established norm and THAT is the value that everything is based on.)
    For purposes of buying lenses, the focal lengths are NOT converted or adjusted in any way.  For example, Canon makes "EF-S" lenses designed specifically to work with their crop-frame bodies.  So when the kit lens that comes with the camera says it is a zoom with an 18-55mm focal length range... it really is 18-55mm regardless of sensor size.   (Canon isn't multiplying or dividing focal lengths and putting a different value on the box just because it's intended for a crop-sensor camera.)
    Hope this helps.
    Regards,
    Tim
    Tim Campbell
    5D II, 5D III, 60Da

  • EVALUATION PERIOD NOT UPGRADING TO FULL VERSION

    HI
    I am trying to upgrade sql server2008r2 evaluation period to FULL version but while upgrading it showing sql server product key is invalid however sql product key is licensed & orgiginal but the same is not proceeding with this key.
    Please suggest

    Hi,
    Check the Link below. Have you followed the same procedure for upgrade.
    http://blogs.technet.com/b/sqlman/archive/2010/03/16/sql-server-2008-upgrading-to-standard-enterprise-edition-from-evaluation-edition.aspx
    How to: Upgrade to a Different Edition of SQL Server 2008 (Setup) 
    http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/cc707783.aspx
    Below are the main steps, using the Setup , edition upgrade wizard.
    Insert the SQL Server installation media. From the root folder, double-click setup.exe or launch the SQL Server Installation Center from Configuration
    Tools. To install from a network share, locate the root folder on the share, and then double-click Setup.exe.
    To upgrade an existing instance of SQL Server 2008 to a different edition, from the SQL Server Installation Center click Maintenance,
    and then select Edition Upgrade.
    If Setup support files are required, SQL Server Setup installs them. If you are instructed to restart your computer, restart before you continue.
    The System Configuration Checker runs a discovery operation on your computer. To continue, click OK.
    On the Product Key page, select a radio button to indicate whether you are upgrading to a free edition of SQL Server, or whether you have a PID
    key for a production version of the product. For more information, see Editions and Components of SQL Server 2008 and Version
    and Edition Upgrades.
    On the License Terms page, read the license agreement, and then select the check box to accept the licensing terms and conditions. To continue,
    click Next. To end Setup, click Cancel.
    On the Select Instance page, specify the instance of SQL Server to upgrade.
    The Edition Upgrade Rules page validates your computer configuration before the edition upgrade operation begins.
    The Ready to Upgrade Edition page shows a tree view of installation options that were specified during Setup. To continue, click Upgrade.
    During the edition upgrade process, the services need to be restarted to pick up the new setting. After edition upgrade, the Complete page provides
    a link to the summary log file for the edition upgrade. To close the wizard, click Close.
    After installation, the Complete page provides a link to the summary log file for the installation and other important notes. To complete the SQL
    Server installation process, click Close.
    If you are instructed to restart the computer, do so now. It is important to read the message from the Installation Wizard when you are done with
    Setup. For information about Setup log files, see How to: View and Read SQL Server Setup Log Files.
    You can also perform the upgrade using command line option, see below SQL BOL topic.
    Command Line option
    http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/ms144259.aspx#Upgrade
    Hope this can help save time in upgrading to retail editions of SQL Server from the evaluation edition.
    Note: The
    Evaluation edition of SQL Server is based on the Enterprise Edition and thus it is recommended to upgrade to SQL Server 2008 Enterprise Edition so you can continue to enjoy the many capabilities such as Resource Governor, Database compression, Backup compression,
    Transparent Database encryption, etc.
    Regards, PS

  • Every time i upgrade Creative Cloud App - App For managing cc Apps this fails in my macbookpro... so

    Every time i upgrade Creative Cloud App - App For managing cc Apps this fails in my macbookpro... so App is unusable and probably needs reinstall.
    I had cc full, now cancelled and switched to Ps cc/Lr only , and in macbookpro says PS cc expiries in 4 days. when go to open Creative Cloud App does not open.... well?

    Moving this discussion to the Creative Cloud Download & Install forum.
    Lsepolis123 please review the installation logs for the Creative Cloud Desktop application to determine why the installation is failing.  Please see Troubleshoot install issues with log files | CC - http://helpx.adobe.com/creative-cloud/kb/troubleshoot-install-logs-cc.html for information on how to locate and interpret the installation log files.

  • Lenses for full frame vs aps-c cameras.

    101 question here- how does one differentiate the lenses between the full frame sensor cameras and the others? I come from the cinematography side, picked up a 6D for starters and am trying to figure out what the lens options are. Thanks

    There are two sensor sizes in Canon digital cameras sold today (there was a  third, but that's no longer offered.)  
    A "full frame" camera (like a 1D X, 5D III, or 6D) are so named because the physical size of the sensor is roughly the same size as a single frame of 35mm film.  That's about 36mm wide by about 24mm tall.
    An "APS-C" camera (all Rebel series, midrange bodies like 60D, and 70D, as well as the 7D) are so named because the physical size of the sensor is roughly the same size as a single frame of APS-C film (APS-C = Advanced Photo System - Classic size).  This film was a little smaller than 35mm... the frame measures roughly 22mm wide by about 15mm tall.  It has a 60% (1.6x) crop factor.
    The EF-S lenses project an image circle into the camera body which is large enough to fill the size of an APS-C sensor, but will not quite fill the frame of a "full frame" sensor.  You'd get vignetting and the image quality would degrade substantially near the edges and corners.   But possibly even more important that that... a "full frame" mirror is physically larger and requires more clearance to swing clear of the light path when taking an exposure.  The EF-S lenses have a shorter back-focus distance and the rear-most lens element is so close that the mirror would strike the rear-element.  As such, Canon designed the mount of the full-frame bodies such that the EF-S lenses wont even mount flush to the body.  
    In short, Canon "EF-S" lenses will only work with Canon cameras that have APS-C size sensors (well.. with the single exception of the old EOS 10D which hasn't been made in ages.)
    Canon "EF" lenses will work on every Canon EOS camera... film or digital... regardless of sensor size.
    Tim Campbell
    5D II, 5D III, 60Da

  • We are just about to purchase an iphoto book but received the message that we had one or more empty photo frames. We have gone over each page several times and found no empty frames. We cannot purchase the book because we cannot get beyond this message.

    We are just about to purchase an iphoto book but received the message that we had one or more empty photo frames. We have gone over each page several times and found no empty frames. We cannot purchase the book because we cannot get beyond this message. Any ideas on how to rectify this situation?

    So far every time this erros has occured it has been correct - the most difficult one to find is a full page photo layout behind a full page photo - this is hard to find - click here for a discussion on how to find it
    LN

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