Tips for taking photos of canines/dogs cats etc anyone?

I have been taking photos of pets and do ok for an amatuer but would appreciate any tips (I know clicker training helps a ton to get expression -- ha ha )

I've found a great time to photograph cats is after they've eaten. They tend to sit idly, belly full, and often groom themselves. After grooming, they will often go for a nap. During that post eating period they're not paying much attention to you or anything else, and it can be a great time to snap some good pictures.

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Any tips for optimizing photos for Flash?

I'm curious if anyone has any great tips for preparing photos
to be used in a Flash website.
I'm very familiar with Photoshop and I've designed many
non-Flash sites so I know the general approach for preparing photos
for the web. I've done a few Flash sites which are heavily image
based... no images galleries but just large photos used in the
layouts.
In the interest of keeping the file size down to a minimum,
I'm bringing the quality of my jpegs down to 45 or even 30 in
Photoshop (this usually makes them around 40K +- 10K each).
Needless to say, they lack the sharp quality of a good image when
brought down to this size.
Lately, I've seen some really great Flash sites that have
very large images in their layout The photos are very clear and the
site moves smoothly/quickly.
So, I guess my question is two-fold:
1) What can I do to maximize the quality of the photos
without compromising the speed of the site?
2) As a general rule, what is the range of quality for photos
brought from Photoshop into Flash? (jpeg, psd, gif?)
thanks for any insight!

Is this typical?
I just exported a background image of bricks (which needs to
look pretty
clear) and the export on my jpg was 61KB, my png export was
361KB.
Should I use the *.png anyway? It doesn't look, to me, like
there's much
difference between the two.
I don't expect to have the site scaling -should be pretty
static.
TIA,
Jon
"Nickels55" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:els0r1$h4r$[email protected]..
>I like to use uncompressed .PNG files. That way you can
change the quality
>in
> Flash very easily and you can use transparency with
them. If you want to
> change
> the quality of the final output you can do it in the
publish settings in
> Flash.
>

App for taking photo for contact

I would like to use iPhone 4 taking a photo with new friend and put it into contact. I am wondering if there is any app to make the whole process simpler. Thanks!

Sorry, I believe I did not clearly describe the issue. The current method is quite simple and I love it. So far, I have not added any photo in my contact yet but want to do so from now on. It is very useful for some friends who meet once a year or two years. The camera captures 5m photo but for such small photo. It should scale down the size in order to save the file size. Currently, I have over 700 contacts in the database. If I put photo in contact, I am unsure if it will impact the performance of the phone and occupies huge space. The other issue is to crop the head only for such small space provided for the photo in contact. Of course, I can do it manually but take time and is inconvenient. If there is an app that can have a small frame for the photo space in contact, that would be great.

Tips for resolving photo chaos prior to installing Lightroom?

I tried and really liked the 30-day free trial of Lightroom 2 and I intend to buy it (or Lightroom 3 if it is released soon enough). The fast photo enhancement capabilities were convincing enough, but I am also looking for a solution for managing my photo chaos.
My problem is that I have photos scattered everywhere - on my work laptop, on my desktop PC, on external hard drives, on CDs. And I have duplicates everywhere but not all photos are duplicated. I have completely lost sight of where photos are located. I recently bought a Windows Home Server to make regular backups of my desktop PC and have manually moved loads of photos to the Server to make sure they are in a safe place (the folder is automatically duplicated on a separate drive) and share them with other family members.
In future with Lightroom, I envision importing my photos from the camera via Lightroom to my desktop PC and having Lightroom save a copy of the original to my server for safekeeping. But I am unsure of the best way to handle the existing photos. Are there recommendations on how to prepare the existing chaos for importing them into Lightroom? And can Lightroom recognize if exact duplicate photos are being imported from different sources?
I would be grateful for any tips, or pointers to tips on the web or books.

I can tell you how I handled a recent and similar project. I wanted to gather together copies of all of my digital imaes including camera images, scans, and multiple iterations of art images going back many years. I bought a new 2TB external drive and set up a folder called "Photos" to put everything in. Personally, I like a bit of folder organization. I set up folders for my personal photographs, stock, and client work (weddings, portraits, commercial). I use a basic date folder system for the actual images within those folders: YYYYMMDD-short description (20091225-John and Susan's wedding or 20050601-Hawaii trip). That is the system I have always used so it was easy to copy those folders and loose images from hard drives, CD's, DVD's, zip drives, and even diskettes. Once that was all done and everything was roughly sorted into those master folders, I began importing the images into LR. I would do smaller sections at a time since my experience is that LR can choke when importing huge numbers of images at one time. I was dealing with hundreds of thousands of images. Once imported, it is easy to see duplicates in LR (since I did a rough sort as I copied them in). If the image metadata had the date in it, then I drag images not in folders to the correct date folder. I just kept plugging thru it. In the case of client work, I did not care as much if I had duplicates since it is unlikely I will need to access most of it. I just deleted obvious duplicates, and left the rest alone. My stock images (140,000+) took more time. Different rendering of the same art images just got stacked together. It took a few weeks of part time work plugging through the images, but now it is all cleaned up.
At least set up a simple system for importing the new work. The date folder, even if you don't separate into other master folders (like I do with weddings, portraits, personal, stock, etc), is a simple way to keep things organized. Also, set up a simple naming system for your images. The biggest problems I had was the really old images from my beginnings in digital where I named things: "big blue butterfly.jpg" and "big blue butterfly w/blur.jpg". It made things very confusing to sort out. Now I have a simple alpha-numeric system and variations just have -01, -02 etc. added on. Often with virtual copies, I don't even need to have multiple copies.
I hope that helps,
John
John G. Blair Studio

My tips for taking good photographs .

Taking good Photographs in simple terms
Getting sharp images:
For best results use a sturdy tripod and lock-up your mirror prior to clicking the shutter with a remote release (or use the shutter release timer).
If you need to hand hold, ensure that the shutter speed is fast enough; this will depend on your personal ability to hold the camera steady, the focal length of the lens and whether or not the lens / camera has image stability built in.
Choose an appropriate aperture for the depth of field that you require; a small aperture (high f number) for wide depth of field (typical for landscapes) or a large aperture (small f number) for shallow depth of field (typical for portraiture). To maximise the depth of field achieved for a given aperture when taking landscape photos, focus approximately one third of the way into the scene.
Buy the best quality lenses that you can afford. A consumer camera body with a high quality lens will obtain better quality images than a pro camera body with a consumer spec kit lens; spend wisely!
Composition:
There are various ‘rules’ for helping with composition, the most commonly used being the rule of thirds; divide the scene through your lens into three both vertically and horizontally giving four points of intersection; place the most important element on one of these intersection points.
Remember that rules are there to be broken and achieving good balance in an image can be more important than force fitting some arbitrary rules!
Crop your image to a shape that gives most impact; letter box, square etc.
Light:
Remember it is light that you are recording on the sensor / film and digital cameras and film have a limit to the range from darkest to brightest that they can record; exceed this and you will have either blocked up shadows or burned out highlights.
Landscape photographers use graduated Neutral Density filters to darken the sky so that all tones can be captured.
The light at and around sun rise and sun set is much warmer than at mid day and shadows are much longer resulting in much more pleasing images, particularly for landscape photography. That said, there are times when the soft light pre-dawn, post sunrise, or on an overcast or misty day is the perfect light for the subject. For each subject consider what will work best and the angle that you will make the image; also consider B&W / mono as days with dull colour can make great B&W images.
Post Processing:
There is nothing new about post processing, it is not something that was invented for digital photography; it is much cleaner digitally, and you have the ability to click ‘undo’ but the concept of manipulating imagery goes back a long way with all serious darkroom printers at least doing a little dodging and burning to bring out the best in their prints.
Get as much right in camera and try not to over-do the processing; a good image can be ruined whilst a poor image cannot be turned into a good image!
Improving your skills:
One great way of improving your skills is to join a local camera club where you will learn from the experienced members.
Alternatively (or in addition to joining a camera club), enrol onto a photography course.
Most importantly, get out with your camera and practice!
Examples:
To see examples of putting the above into practice feel free to take a tour of my web site, link below:
http://www.final-image-photography.co.uk/
Does anybody else have any advice?
http://digitalcamerascompare.com
For good camera reviews.

All very good points. I would just add that prime lenses will usually produce better quality pictures. A prime lens has a fixed focal length e.g. 35mm, 50mm, 85mm etc. However most of us prefer the flexibility of a zoom lens which can stay on the camera and avoids the need to constantly change lenses for the job in hand, or to carry around a large kit bag. So there is a trade off between best quality and convenience.

Tips for printing photos with HP ePrint

Hello,
I will be giving you guys a couple of tips on how to print photos with HP ePrint. These are general tips to make it a little more easier to use HP ePrint.
#1: Have 4" x 6" photo paper preloaded in your printer
The first step in getting quality photo prints with HP ePrint is having 4" x 6" HP Photo Paper preloaded in your printer’s dedicated photo paper tray. If your HP ePrint-enabled printer doesn’t have a separate photo paper tray, just make sure that photo paper is the only paper loaded in the tray when printing photos.
All photos e-mailed with HP ePrint will print at a default size of 4" x 6".
If available, your photos will automatically print on paper from your printer’s dedicated photo paper tray.
If you don’t have photo paper loaded into your photo paper tray, this message will appear on the printer’s display: “Load paper into photo tray”.
If you have 5" x 7" paper loaded into the tray, it will still print a 4" x 6" photo on the paper, leaving a white border along the top and the side.
HP ePrint will ensure your image is printed with the correct orientation so your photo won’t be cut off.
#2: Make sure your photos have a high enough dpi
Check your image’s dpi: Right-click on your image on your PC’s desktop, then selectProperties, and the Details tab.
The second thing to remember when printing photos with HP ePrint is to make sure your digital images have a high enough resolution, or dpi (dots per inch).
Image files (like jpeg, bmp, tiff, etc.) need to be at least 100 dpi in order to print via HP ePrint.
If you send a photo that is less than 100 dpi, it will not be printed. Instead, you will see a message in your job history on the ePrintCenter that says “Failed”.
To print a photo or image that is less than 100 dpi, insert the image file into a Word document before e-mailing. Your image will be printed on paper from the main printer paper tray.
Image attachments must be less than 5MB (megabytes). Also, HP ePrint supports a maximum of 10 attachments to a single e-mail. E-mails that exceed these limits will not print.
Find out how megapixels affect the resolution and quality of your digital photos.
If you guys have anymore questions let me know.
Also, remember if you find any of my post helpful or want to say thanks make sure to click the white star under my name to give me Kudos.
I really appreciate it!
Thanks!
This question was solved.
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I hope this is helpful!
Also, remember if you find any of my post helpful or want to say thanks make sure to click the white star under my name to give me Kudos.
I really appreciate it!
Thanks!

Tips for marking photos

Hello,
I am a hobby photographer and just shot 400 pics at a friend's wedding. I have only been using LR at a very high level so far but with the wedding pics I will probably delve much deeper into this tool. My first task is to cull the images that are not worth the effort. My second task is then to start editing the images (cropping, color temp, etc.). Given I will not finish the editing in a single day or even single week, I have a couple questions.
1. How can I indicate an image is not part of the subset I want to edit without deleting it from my library?
2. Besides searching my meta data for the date and keywords used for this wedding, how can I search to only include the images that passed my cull test?
3. How can I see which images have already been edited to quickly see where I left off?
Thanks,

On Mon, Sep 14, 2009 at 10:35 AM, Confusedxx <[email protected]> said:
>
Hello,
>
I am a hobby photographer
Me, too.
and just shot 400 pics at a friend's wedding. I have only been using LR at a very high level so far but with the wedding pics I will probably delve much deeper into this tool. My first task is to cull the images that are not worth the effort. My second task is then to start editing the images (cropping, color temp, etc.). Given I will not finish the editing in a single day or even single week, I have a couple questions.
>
1. How can I indicate an image is not part of the subset I want to edit without deleting it from my library?
Here's what I do ...
I use the stars and colors ratings that you can assign to any photo,
as well as the "Pick" flag". Any photo I like, and want to keep, gets
2 stars and a yellow color. The others get a flag of "reject". This
will cause those to appear like they've got a grey film over them, so
it's visually obvious I don't like those; the others get a flag of
"Pick".
When I develop/crop/edit in PS/etc as needed, the color gets changed
to green (meaning processed).
Of the green photos, the ones I like best get 3 or more stars.
I almost never delete photos (only the really out of focus ones, etc.
Otherwise, I try and either flag them as "Reject", or don't flag them
at all.
2. Besides searching my meta data for the date and keywords used for this wedding, how can I search to only include the images that passed my cull test?
I filter on 2 stars or more (or not rejected).
You may adapt something similar - the ratings, colors and flags are
ideal for this sort of thing - which is an image to be retained; which
ones need more work; which ones are final and keepers. Then you just
filter on the combination you want.
I also set each as a named "smart collection". That way, I only need
to click on the collection name, and those filter settings are then
applied, and I see only the ones I want to see.

Tip for Data Merge with Multiple Records (labels, etc.)

I have seen many InDesign Data Merge questions about how to create sheets of mailing labels, especially the problem of getting only one label per page, when you need 30 or more.
Adobe's instructions are poor and incomplete in that InDesign doesn't step out the records from a data source - it steps out the FRAMES that contain the data field placeholders.
That is why you only need to place a text or image frame once on a single page - during the datamerge, InDesign will create the additional FRAMES for each record, and it will create the pages required to hold them.
You do have to set the desired spacing on the
If you create the frame on a Master page, ID allows you to update the data source (when it changes) in the Data Merge tool panel.
These are very nice and robust features, but the documentation for them is confusing to many people.
You will find more great in-depth help for Data Merge, with screen captures and attachments, here in the forum.

For a multiple record merge you need one set of placeholders, then set the margins and spacing in the merge options so the positioning is correct.
Warning: Using Preview in a multiple record merge will corrupt the file. If you press the preview button, Undo after looking at the preview, then merge without using preview.

Taking Photos From iPod

Is there a program for mac for taking photos from the iPod or the computer (or anyway?)

http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=93446

My iphone storage is full due to my large photo library. As I want to go on taking more photos, if I back up my phone to icloud, can I then delete all my photos from my iphone to make room for new photos?

My iphone storage is full due to my large photo library. As I want to go on taking more photos, if I back up my phone to icloud, can I then delete all my photos from my iphone to make room for new photos? Or will the next time I back up lose all those previously backed up as it is a 'new' set of data?
I just want to find the easiest and safest way of not losing all my photos while being able to take more than my iPhones storage worth as it is already full - can someone help me please? I thought icloud was the solution to not uploading my photos to the mac but I'm not sure if the way it's going is working and don't want to delete photos or lose my phone and then find out what I'm doing isn't actually storing my photos permanently. Thanks

Hey EmilyEliza,
As you are clearly aware, it is important for you to have backups of your important data, including all of these photos you are currently keeping on your iPhone. While it is possible to use iTunes or iCloud to do backups of your iPhone, the problem becomes how to access those backups if you have deleted the photos from your iPhone. Once you have done the backup and then removed the photos from the iPhone, the only way to access the photos is by restoring the backups to the phone. See this article for information about backups made from the iPhone -
Back up and restore your iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch using iCloud or iTunes - Apple Support
If you want to easily access the photos once they are off of the iPhone, another approach to this would be to import your photos from the iPhone into an application on your Mac, such as iPhoto. To learn how to do this, use the steps in this article -
Import photos and videos from your iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch to your Mac or Windows PC - Apple Support
Once those photos are on your computer, it is still important to back up those photos to somewhere else, so you can be sure of their safety before removing them from the iPhone. Your Mac’s Time Machine application is one method of doing this -
Mac Basics: Time Machine backs up your Mac - Apple Support
Thanks for using Apple Support Communities.
Happy computing,
Brett L

My iphone 3g is getting really slow. I done full restore ,deleted most apps . Not many photos in my album. i have no videos on my iphone. When taking photo with my iphone it takes ages for camera to open up. Very slow to take photo. Any suggestions? Help!

My iphone 3g is getting really slow. I done full restore ,deleted most apps . Not many photos in my album. i have no videos on my iphone. When taking photo with my iphone it takes ages for camera to open up. Very slow to take photo. Any suggestions? Please help !!!!

Thank you very much for your reply gdgmacguy :) I did all you suggested apart from restore as new device . Didn't know I could do that . After restore I did restore from back up only, as I didn't want to end up without contacts details on my phone. If I restore as new device how do I get my all contacts? Still will have to use back up? Sorry if it sounds like I don't know what i am doing, i just have no one to ask who would know. Thank you

I have been taking photos for years and have thousands. When I use Apple TV screen saver, it seems only to grab a handfull and repeats them. Is there a configuration setting that will allow me to have the screen saver grab more than just a few? Thanks.

I have been taking photos for years and have thousands. When I use Apple TV screen saver, it seems only to grab a handfull and repeats them. Is there a configuration setting that will allow me to have the screen saver grab more than just a few? Thanks.

The device has an 8GB drive for caching streamed meida, a small portion of that is used to temporarily store photos for the screensaver. It may vary depending on resolution etc but it seems to be around 100.

I have been taking photos with my Ipad for several months and sending them via email and Facebook. Now it will transfer photos to FB but not email addresses. What could be the problem? email an

Have been taking photos with my Ipad and sending them to email address and FB. For some reason it will now send photos to FB but not my email address. What could be the problem?

Does your email provider have a limit on the total file size allowed on their server? It could be that emails with photos send in the past are still on your email server. They might even be in the servers trash folder. If the total MB of those emails exceeds the amount allowed then no additional emails can be received. Try using a web mail page to check and edit what's on the email server.

Need help with Photo Slideshow Tips for FCPx

How do i create a background/generator/effect similar to this for my still images for my photo slideshow presentation? Im just using ken burns effect for now and I cannot find a plug-in that would give this background effect for my photos. help please!

you're in the fcp studio forum not fcpX. This is where you want to be
https://discussions.apple.com/community/professional_applications/final_cut_pro_ x

Tips for lightening areas of a photo without masks

Hi guys, In the exmaple below there is an image that lightens areas in contrast to others. I know set up allowed for much of this to be performed before post processing, but the blends are really nice along with the hair.
I've tried using a luminosity mask for certain areas by using the channel mixer and then adjusting the blend if sliders. For any process I try I always end up using a lot of masks to control the adjusted areas.
Any tips for achieving this without the harshness of masks? Painting on masks or using the adobe mask edge dectection does not leave me with a realistic results.
Thanks so much!

Personally, I'm very fond of the Dodge Tool.
I suggest you work at 16 bits/channel so you don't accumulate pixel error.
It takes a while to get to know the tool, e.g., how it responds to different image tones with Shadows, Midtones, or Highlights set. And don't try to reach your goal all in one stroke. Set the Exposure to a fairly low value and build up the effect with multiple strokes.
-Noel

Tips for taking photos of canines/dogs cats etc anyone?

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