Uneven Sli Temperatures

Uneven to say the least, Gpu No1 rises in temperature only slightly, perhaps 10c when under load from at rest of about 38c but Gpu No2 rises to 90c+ very rapidly and would I'm sure top 100c after a few minutes.
Screen grab of the NVidea Monitor.
The temperatures are displayed with a 14c gradient between levels
Up untill recently was running stock cooler on No2 with what seems a very effective "Ice Chameleon" on No1 - Identical as far as I can tell to the Vantec Iceberg 5 and the Evercool Nighthawk VC F117 Vga Cooler which I now have on the No2; which made no difference to the temperature curve whatsoever.
I will try changing the cards over and then the coolers to see if I can make some sense of this if I get time tomorrow. I don't know how long Iv'e had these problems as I have only recently been taking any notice of temperatures with the new NVidea control panel and now with NTune installed also.
Thanks in advance for your superior insight.

The case is very well ventilated with two additional 90mm fans - one blowing over the graphics cards and one extracting through the hard drives.
Only other thing I can think of - Sisoft sandra told me that I need to update the video bios!? as its dated Dec 04 (5.43.02.16.00).
The temperatures seem genuine in that when starting from cold both Gpu temps are low -30 - with both stabilizing at around 38 N01 and 46 - 48 No2. Although I find it hard to believe that tiny chip can heat up what must be a cubic inch of solid copper by 50c in a couple of seconds
I'm running the latest 93.71 drivers.

Similar Messages

Gtx 280 sli temperature

I have just bought 2 gtx 280 graphic cards. I instaled the cd drives from the msi cd but in my nvidia panel there is no physix and sli option. When i installed the latest driver osd vivid and all other programs disapeard.Any suggestions? I want the latest drivers with the osd vivid and other application. Also is there any program to ajust the fan speed or it is automated by the graphic card? My temperatures playing games reach 70 degrees and more.Do i have (and with what) to adjust the fun speed or that is beeing automated from the graphic card byself?
Sorry for my poor English
Thanx in advance for your answers.

Temperatures around 90°C at load would be still fine. Anything less than 100°C is ok. GTX280 are running awfully hot, so what you got is normal.
Riva Tuner would be good for fan control but don't lower fan speed too much. GTX280 are very noisy but they need high fan speeds in 3d.
OSD vivid? I guess your talking of the features of the MSI drivers. Those are MSI modified nvidia drivers to include such tools. None the less those aren't that up-to-date as the nvidia drivers. So you will most likely don't get the latest driver plus MSI features. If I were you with a quite new vga like GTX280 which requires newest drivers I'd rather go for the latest nvidia driver. Latest MSI driver with Star OSD and so on is 177.42 which is waayyy to old. Many fixes and performance increases for GT200 series came with 18x.xx drivers. Best would be going for nvidia 181.22.
First uninstall all currently installed nvidia drivers (also means the MSi ones) and then install 181.22 and SLi option should appear.

MSI GTX560 Ti Hawk SLI Temperature too high

Hi,
Two days ago I bought a second GTX560-Ti hawk (Twin Frozr III) to run in SLi with my other (the exact same card). I noticed that the VRAM temperature of one of the cards (I'm guessing the top one, but I'm not 100% sure) got really high. It got to something like 90 degrees celcius. Core temperature was ok for both cards, a little bit higher than when running a single card but I suppose that is to be expected.
Also when I stopped doing anything when it got to that temperature I noticed that the VRAM temperature wasn't going down very fast.
I've tried both cards separately and didn't observe those temperatures so I'm guessing the cards are ok. It's only in SLi modes that these have issues. I was wondering if you guys could point me in the right direction as to fixing this problem, as right not I cannot play any games because I'm worried that the temperatures will become too high.
It's worth mentioning I have a MSI P67A-GD55 (B3) motherboard.
Thanks for any help you guys can give me.

Actually I got a new case and put everything in and did as you said (switched the cards) and got no screen at all.
If I switch the cards to the original set up it works like I described before. I'm guessing the second card is faulty and I will RMA it.

Uneven color temperature

I just got a 2013 27" iMac from eBay, and everything works great, but the bottom half of the screen looks slightly warmer and brighter than the top half (it's a gradual shift). The top half also looks slightly greener than it should be. Is this typical for this model? At my previous job we had the same model and I remember the color temperature looking spot on. I might get a Spyder to calibrate it but I'm guessing it wouldn't completely fix it. Insight would be appreciated!

Any ideas?

MOVED: X58 Eclipse SLI temperatures

This topic has been moved to Intel Core I7 boards.
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=122469.0

IF your IOH Temps are INSANELY HOT like mine (up to 110-127 C!!), there might be something wrong with your Heatsink (the giant two-sided one with the copper pipe). Those plastic pushpins don't seem to hold the heatsink firmly to the two chips (I'm not sure which one is the IOH yet). Anyway, I tried using pushpins from other boards and using arctic silver thermal paste - no difference. BIOS 1.1 - no difference.
Finally, I decided to get a little bold and try using some screws to literally screw the heatsink down thru the existing holes into the MB - WARNING do this at your own risk!! I found some screws that were the diameter of the 4 holes on the heatpipe from the leftover screws that came from my antec case. I cleaned off the old heatsink material (lots of elbow grease, or rubbing alcohol, q-tips and patience. I put everything together and now it makes a nice solid contact to the MB. Be careful not to overtorque - you basically want to fasten it down solid to ensure no movement.
Guess what? The IOH temps are better now !!
CPU 31C
Sys 47C
IOH 86-93C (93 using cooling settings in MSI Overclock tool; 84 using default cooling settings = much improvement from 110-127C!!!)
(If Sys is hotter than IOH, make sure you have the latest version of MSI Overclocking Center program from MSI's website).
MSI-7522 i7 920 (Eclipse x58)
OCZ 3x2GB Ram (NOT overclocked)
ASUS 4800HD PCIx
Maxtor 1TB Drive

Export color vs. print to file color issue with 2.3RC

Hi,
I'm having problems with exporting photos for web-site usage.
In short: colors get extremely washed out and plain when using "export to disk" (requesting sRGB color profile, in jpg-format). But, when "printing to file" using sRGB profile and rendering intent perceptual colors are reasonably close to what I see in LR. Yes, I know, sRGB is limited, but...
Why there is such a difference when both methods are using sRGB for generated jpg? Is it the fact that rendering intent can not be selected for "export to disk"?
As I can not control pixel dimensions in Print mode is not an option for my use (and I can not control sharpening with plug-in, but the color issue is there to begin with without any export plugin intervention).
In contrast, LR 1.4 export to disk gives reasonable colors, the color issue has appeared with 2.x series.
Running Windows XP SP3, LR 2.3RC, display calibrated with Color Vision SPyder 2.
Please help, this is driving me nuts :(

I think, that your examples shows the same problem as my observations.
It seems that your display has even smaller gamut than sRGB (on my notebook DELL D620 this is also the case) so after you calibrated it, both lightroom and color managed firefox shows more saturated colors than windows explorer showing exported image (as far as I know, export from library module works correctly, but win explorer is not doing conversion to your monitor profile, that's why image is undersaturated). This is correct. It is really hard to calibrate such a low quality display, which can often be found on cheap notebooks - I have my own experience with it. Blue shades are really weak so heavy corrections have to be done in the profile (generated with spyder in your case), which can result in purple skies (why? Read this: http://www.brucelindbloom.com/index.html?WorkingSpaceInfo.html).
Problem is with image printed to file. This should look same as file exported from library module given that you use sRGB both as a destination space in export from library and as a printer profile while printing to file. In your case LR printed your image using values corresponding to your monitor profile (even if sRGB was selected) which resulted in oversaturated image (because your display has smaller gamut than sRGB). In my case images printed to file are undersaturated (because my monitor has gamut wider than sRGB). But I'm sure this is a bug! Your monitor profile should not affect printing to file in any case if sRGB is selected as printer profile!
Summary: purle sky in LR and in color managed FF is ok, but purple sky in image printed to file is not ok. :-)
And my hint: do not try to calibrate this display... :-)
You can try to make some measurements of your UNCALIBRATED NB display using this freeware: http://www.homecinema-fr.com/colorimetre/index_en.php You will probably see a very uneven color temperature across grayscale and much smaller gamut than sRGB.
Let us know your findings.

High Southbridge gpu temps

I was trying to check on the temps for the cpu and ended up with HWmonitor. This is not really an overclocked system. I had noticed that the top of the heat sink for the south bridge was fairly hot after some memory test. The Heatsink/fan for the cpu seem to be doing good though. I left the min speed for the cpu fan at the second highest level so the motherboard heat pipe system would get more air, but it doesn't seem to be enough.
Hardware monitor   Fintek F71889F
   Voltage 0   3.30 Volts [0xCE] (+3.3V)
   Voltage 1   1.09 Volts [0x88] (CPU VCORE)
   Voltage 2   4.67 Volts [0x6F] (+5V)
   Voltage 3   12.32 Volts [0x8C] (+12V)
   Voltage 4   1.57 Volts [0x62] (VIN4)
   Voltage 5   0.67 Volts [0x2A] (VIN5)
   Voltage 6   0.42 Volts [0x1A] (VIN6)
   Voltage 7   3.30 Volts [0xCE] (VSB3V)
   Voltage 8   3.12 Volts [0xC3] (VBAT)
   Temperature 0   31°C (87°F) [0x1F] (TMPIN0)
   Temperature 1   92°C (197°F) [0x5C] (TMPIN1)
   Temperature 2   36°C (96°F) [0x24] (TMPIN2)
   Fan 0      2019 RPM [0x2E7] (FANIN0)
   Fan 1      2283 RPM [0x291] (FANIN1)
   Fan 2      1427 RPM [0x41B] (FANIN2)
   Fan PWM 0   88 pc [0xE0] (CPU)
   Fan PWM 1   100 pc [0xFF] (System Fan 1)
   Fan PWM 2   100 pc [0xFF] (System Fan 2)
   Fan PWM 3   100 pc [0xFF] (System Fan 3)
Hardware monitor   AMD Phenom II X4 945
   Temperature 0   25°C (76°F) [0xC4] (Core #0)
   Temperature 1   25°C (76°F) [0xC4] (Core #1)
   Temperature 2   25°C (76°F) [0xC4] (Core #2)
   Temperature 3   25°C (76°F) [0xC4] (Core #3)
Hardware monitor   NVIDIA nForce 980a/780a SLI
   Temperature 0   81°C (177°F) (GPU Core)
Hardware monitor   WDC WD1600JD-22HBB0
   Temperature 0   39°C (102°F) [0x27] (Assembly)
Hardware monitor   WDC WD1600JD-22HBB0
   Temperature 0   43°C (109°F) [0x2B] (Assembly)
I had was thinking about a small fan stuck on top of the center heatsink in the HP system or over the voltage regulators though the hot spot seems to be at the SB.
I was also wondering about the fancy metal plate slid in over the voltage reg HS that advertises 140w ready. Seems it would reduce air flow around the fins though now I'm more concerned about the SB. Don't want that to fry.
Board is in a 4U rack case. I added a 120mm Vantec fan to the front card side of the case to help get air moving on that side. fan is rated 1500RPM 53 CFM
I went into Entropia for about 10-15 minutes and checked back and it reports a peak temp of 117c (242F)

Quote from: Vorg on 10-November-09, 15:30:58
I was told they called it southbridge because the NB is in the cpu. You change CPU-NB to bump up the memory controller speed. The SB is located so that anything higher and it would interfere with cards. If you look at the pictures of the board, the heat sink in the middle of the heat pipe between the slots and the cpu is MCP82 (http://vr-zone.com/articles/nvidia-preparing-mcp82-xe-chipset-for-amd-am3-cpus/6755.html?doc=6755). It has the video. The heat sink at the end of the slots is NF200. That seems to be the SLI bridge. And of corse the heat sink between the back and the cpu are the VR's. Its the NF200 I was putting my finger on to check. But I also tried the MCP. The reason MCP and GPU where going up the same is they are in the same chip just like there are 4 cpu core sensors plus a cpu sensor in one chip and they stay together. From what I am getting of the two remaining sensors, one is power supply and likely the other is ether VR's or the SF200. SF200 would go up because it's tied to the same heatpipe.
I picked up couple of 20mm fans. May put one of those on the MCP heat sink. I would reduce the grease if I knew more what it had now. Don't want to take it off and find I need special pads for the VR's or something.
The NB isn't really in the CPU but the memory controller is (and has been for some time).
You do not likely have an over-abundance of thermal paste so much as hardened and ineffectual thermal paste. You won't need any specialized pads unless there is a significant gap to be closed by design. Heat transferring tape is available. I have read reports of people reducing temps just replacing the MSI thermal goop that has turned into something more like MSI concrete and staying with the factory heat sinks (again, I recommend a non-conductive paste). People have gone crazy about not using too much, often to their detriment. There are situations where "too much" really is "too much" but it's not as common a problem as people say if they're using quality stuff. You have to be more careful if you use conducting material (e.g., silver based) because you don't want to short your board. I recently used "just enough" as a >first ever< experiment in using such a sparse amount and had to remount my CPU HSF with significantly more for a 10C drop. I was able to confirm another poster's observation that AMD heat spreaders can be concave. In any event, the spring tension down on the HSF will squeeze out anything it doesn't need and despite what you read in the papers, this method has worked for me for over 10 of the 20 years I've been building my own.
I still think there is something whacked with what Everest is reporting to you at least in part because there is no CPU diode report, only core reports. You will want to know the temp of your NB, GPU, and CPU independently and confidently. Have you posted to Everest yet?

Problem with MSI X58 Platinum SLI - IOH temperature !

Hi guys.
I have this PC configuration:
- MSI X58 Platinum SLI ( Bios Version 3.8 - http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/6707/161020101249.jpg )
- Intel Core i7 930 2.80 GHz box ( with Intel Turbo Boost running sometimes at 3.06 Ghz )
- MSI GeForce GT240 1GB DDR5 128-bit HDMI
- Corsair 6GB DDR3 1333MHz CL9 XMS3 Triple Channel Kit ( sets to AUTO and running at 1066 Mhz )
- Corsair CMPSU-750TXEU
- Ordinary case ( http://img828.imageshack.us/img828/4200/161020101246.jpg & http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/8480/161020101247.jpg ).
- Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit.
I bought my PC components 2 months ago, so they are new.
Now, guys I think that is a problem with my motherboard. When I turn on the computer in Bios I have this temps: CPU – 30 C (86 F); IOH – 71 C (159 F); System 30 C (86 F) - http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/394/161020101242.jpg. After 2 minutes the temperatures are: CPU – 34 C (93 F); IOH – 82 C (179 F); System 41 C (105 F) and 2 more minutes later the temperatures are: CPU – 34 C (93 F); IOH – 84 C (183 F); System 43 C (109 F). After 30 minutes of doing nothing I have this temps: CPU – 35 C (95 F); IOH – 85 C (185 F); System 42 C (107 F) -
Guys it is normal with IOH temperature ? I am a little worried about it ( to be honest I am more than “a little” … I am worried a lot ).
Ok, I know I don’t have a good case but in 3 weeks I should receive this Thermaltake Spedo Advance Case (http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?C=1121&ID=1829) and I will buy a new CPU cooler ( I don’t know yet wich one – maybe Corsair CWCH70 or Noctua NH-D14 but I have to see the case first … to be sure there is a plenty of space for those coolers ).
Pls help me with that IOH temperature. It is normal ? What if I intend to make a little OC ( lets say CPU to 3652 Mhz and RAM to 1333 Mhz … but also I will ask for your support ! ) my motherboard will burn ?
If it is necessary I will contact my retailer and send him back the motherboard but … I like MSI a lot.
Thx guys for your support !

Hey guys,
Here is a nice cheap alternative.
Here is my story about the same issue. I found it after looking at why my computer freezes sometimes. Not very often but enough for me to do some investigation. I noticed my IOH temp was a whopping 117 degrees Celsius. lol. Surprised my mobo didn't burn out by now. I wanted to evaluate the situation with the heat sink and decided to take it off. After taking it off I found extremely crusty purple compound on board the chipset and the heatsink. I took me FOREVER to scrape it off. it was almost like a cement which I found odd. After scraping and cleaning the surfaces with alcohol, I placed some silver compound on and proceeded to put it back on.
Well, upon hooking everything back up I was still at 95 to 103 degs. Now I started to really look at the options to replace this. I had SLI config which means I had to do something clever with the southbridge as well. A nice thermaltake chipset solution w/fan and a low profile copper southbridge with shipping was about 45 bucks. Hmm ... This is a sure fix from the threads I have read and its really kid of expensive to fix a simple defect. the problem is not necessarily with the heatsink not being sufficient. Its the combo of the compound used vs the amount of pressure applied between the heatsink and chipset. It was completely unacceptable. I knew this right away when I was watching the temp and then I would press on the top of the IOH heatsink and I would watch it drop another 15 degrees in less then 10 seconds. The springs are extremely weak and not effective at all in transferring the heat from the NB.
Here if my fix. Cost me less than a dollar at the hardware store and it works ideal thus far. Do this at your own risk. Doing this will probably void any warranty too. All my problems are solved and I am running at 57 degrees, YES, 57 degrees with the stock heatsink and no additional cooling.
For one scrape all that old crap off like I did. Apply your new compound. But when you go to replace your heatsink, use the following method. The trick is to use metal screws with a mobo washer, original springs from the plastic studs and a nylon locknut. Use screws that are the same diameter and length (maybe a tad bit longer) as the plastic retainer studs. Also grab a few of those red nylon mobo washers too, were gonna need them as well.
After scraping and applying compound, reassemble as follows. Screw with washer inserted into the back of the mobo so the threads are out front. The plastic/nylon washer is betweeen the screwhead and the back of the mobo as a insulator. Put the heatsink on. With the threads thru the heatsink already, put the springs on and start spinning on the locknut. I torqued the nut down on the spring until the spring almost became fully compressed. The purpose of the spring here is really to prevent you breaking something and at the same time using the max force of the spring since it weak to begin with. Thats why we need to compress it down pretty much all the way. There will be little to no room in the spring at this point. The heatsink at this point should be pretty solid to the board as well. I noticed with the plastic studs before the heatsink would wobble if you gave it a little rocking back and forth before. Not this time. Shouldn't move much if at all. Remember not to torque down too much. You don't want to go beyond the springs compression. Even if you did by accident, its better then not using a spring at all. If you feel that it starts to feel tight when torquing, you torqued too far. Stop an backup a 1/4 turn or so. It is also very important to make sure both torques are equal on both sides as well. Alternate sides when torquing down. I could tell by how much thread I had left on both sides and by looking for any uneven sides.
To summarize, the compound is a problem no doubt. After you resolve the compound issue, its all about the adequate pressure between the heatsink and the IOH. Much like the amount of pressure needed between your CPU and your heatsink give or take. And the pressure that would be as an aftermarket solution like the thermaltake chipset cooler. You dont see cheesy springs on that. Wake up MSI. Simpy using a more effective spring could save MSI some cash in the long run. I envision a leafsprin design like the thermaltake chipset one. The heatsink design could be better, sure, but the design itself is not the problem. Replace the heatsinks if you would like to, if your overclocking and stuff. Funny, this board I have is a refurb too and only had it for a few weeks. Figured they would have done something about it.
Sorry the pics are not the best. Here is about as close as I could get to the finished product

Does K8N SLI PLATINUM reads nb temperature?

Does K8N SLI PLATINUM reads nb temperature?
Because mine shows n\a in the corecenter

First of all, there's no Nortbridge on your board. There's an nVidia nForce chipset.
Then if you look in your maual on page 3-23, you see that there's a temperature reading in BIOS for your "System Temp".. That's the nForce temp sensor.

K8N Neo4 Plat. SLI - no northbridge temperature/noisy

Hi all
I just bought a PC with this board & have noticed the chipset fan is very noisy. In core center it runs at over 7000 rpm min. I am getting no temperature reading in core center or speedfan (which may be why the northbridge fan is running so quick?). Has anyone else observed this? Is this a bios or hardware problem (is my board faulty)?
thanks to anyone who can answer

This seems to be fairly common on all Nforce4 Mobos - and certainly my MSI! 7000rpm and quite loud in my case, but quietened by using a Zalman Fanmate 2 (Fanmate 2 more versatile than Fanmate1). MSI tech help told me I "might need to update my BIOS", but I haven't done so, and don't think it helps, from what I've seen on other threads. You can use Motherboard MOnitor and Speedfan to read fan RPM, but I too haven't got a temp reading!
I'd love to think MSI might like to calm the little fan down a little in a future BIOS update, but don't know how likely that is!
So, no, your board isn't faulty - or at least not more faulty than all the others
I believe that the Gigabyte nForce4 is passively cooled, and quiet - also has digital audio in and out; that would suit me fine, but I know little else about thi Gigabyte board - yet!

K9N SLI Platinum temperature sensors

I consider that original monitoring software (Dual Core Center) is not a good product for me, so I use SpeedFan for monitoring.
SpeedFan sees three sensors on the ISA bus: System, CPU and AUX, and these seem to be sensors for MB, CPU Core 1 and CPU Core 2 respectively. That's good.
But there is another sensor on PCI bus, which it calls AMD K8. It shows strange low temperatures, sometimes even below ambient room temp.
Who knows what sensor is that?

Hi,
System, CPU and AUX are MB-sensors residing somewhere on the MB. None of them shows the internal core temps!
That's what AMD K8 shows. But, I strongly suggest you to disable the AMD K8 readings in SpeedFan (I think there's some option /NOAMDK8SCAN, google for it). Reading the core temps on some of AMD's CPU causes random freezes. I had those with mine, and they are away after I teached SpeedFan not to read the AMD K8.
Regards
dero

K9N Platinum SLI - Powering up the PCIe cards

Hey everyone,
I've got a K9N Platinum SLI board. This board has a power supply input point called PWR2, which according to the documentation is used to provide power to stable the operation of graphics cards. My graphic card is BFG nVidia 9750 GT. This card has the PCI-Express external power plug in the back, and my power supply has a dedicated (red) connector for this purpose, which I have attached properly.
The PWR2 is currently connected also, into one of the black 12V connectors. Otherwise, everything is running fine and smooth, but I am sometimes (once a day or so) experiencing random shutdowns during intense gaming (playing LotRO). Stress testing does not cause a shutdown: I've ran 3D Mark 2007 straight for 8-9 hours, while having a CPU Burner application toast the CPU at the same time. But no problems whatsoever. No other games exhibit this problem either.
Since I am providing dedicated power through the extra connector at the back of the card, should I leave the PWR2 connector unplugged ? Is there a chance that using these two connectors at the same time causes the 12V rail to overload, and the PSU shuts down to protect itself ? When this shut down occurs, the power LED is left blinking and I need to plug out the wall socket and wait for several minutes before the blinking stops and it starts up again.
My computer has an Enermax Liberty 620W power supply, and AMD Athlon X2 4600+ CPU. So there should be enough juice, at least. I've tried the tips and tricks suggested here. Using USB-connected Keyboard and Mouse does not correct the issue. I've also verified that this is not an overheating issue. My CPU is cooled by a Scythe Ninja tower heatsink and two 12 cm fans. It is possible that the northbride is heating up (it burns the finger on touch when under load), but from the Web, I've understood that the stock passive heatsink should be enough, and that the NB chip can take rather extreme temperatures.
* UPDATE *
Plugged the PWR2 connector out from the MB, and update the BIOS to 1.10. It's working as usual, but haven't ran any games yet. Heavy gaming usually reproduces the issue, so I'll write more when I know more.

Updated information on the case.
I've been running 2 days now with the PWR2 unplugged. I have had zero problems with shutdowns since. The only problem I now have is that the USB keyboard and mouse refuse to work in Windows XP after an initial bootup from powered down state. I have to unplug and replug them at the login screen in order to get them work again.
So, I decided to do a final sanity check, and replugged the PWR2, then went gaming. After 2 hours of playing, my computer shutted down for the first time. Plugging in the cable did not solve the USB problem either.
As of this day, I'm leaving it unplugged. It seems like an irrelevant connector, which just causes problems.
** Update **
After following Bosskiller's instructions on another thread about using the "Clear CMOS" button and then reconfiguring BIOS from scratch, the cold boot USB issues were solved. The USB devices now work straight after a cold boot, with no need to replug them.
I recommend that the PWR2 -connector info is added to the list of known problems in the sticky thread. If you have a GPU card which takes its power from a dedicated rail (and your PSU has a dedicated connector for this purpose), then leaving the PWR2 -connector unplugged might resolve your shutdown issues, like it solved mine.
After all, according to the manual, this connector is used to give more voltage to the PCI and PCIe busses, and some PCI/PCIe cards might not like this idea at all. There is a reason why these cards have an additional power plug on them...

X99S GAMING 9 AC Not booting - Debug 94 code - Issue with GTX 980 SLI in WoW

Hello, I bought the X99S GAMING 9 AC motherboard but have ran into some issues.
The computer won't boot when I put my second MSI GTX 980 Gaming 4 GB card in the last PCEI 3.0 port (PCIE port 5) and I get the debug LED message 94 on the motherboard. I have a SLI setup.
The first card I have in the second PCIE 3.0 port due to the Noctua U14S CPU fan takes up space for the first slot. So I have been running my grafic cards in PCIE slot 2 and 4 with some issues.
First the card in slot 2 gets really warm over 86 celsius. And second: SLI runs really poorly in World of Warcraft. I get a lot higher performance with just one card activated. I am not sure if it's cause I am not running my cards in the recommended PCIE 3.0 ports or because WoW has some issues with SLI, but I heard other people have no issues at all with WoW in SLI.
I got the same issue with 3Dmark firestrike, the cards perform really poor in SLI. I get higher score with SLI turned off..
Though SLI seems to run pretty well in 3dmark 11 and Diablo 3 Reaper of Souls.
But the main issue right now, is that the computer won't boot with the grafic cards in PCIE port 2 and 5. The solution to run them next to each other is not good, cause it gets really hot and I get bad performance in WoW and Firestrike.
Picture of my setup before I switched places with the grafic cards as you can see, it is really tight:
Any upcoming bios updates (got v1.3) that will solve this issue on the horization? Hopefully this get sorted out really soon..
My whole computer setup:
Intel i7 5820K | MSI X99S Gaming 9 AC (bios 1.3) | SLI MSI GTX 980 Gaming 4GB | Samsung 850 Pro 512 GB | WD Red 4TB | G.Skill Ripjaws DDR4 3000MHz 4x4GB | EVGA SuperNOVA P2 1000W | Noctua NH-U14S PnP | Fractal Design Define XL R2 | 5 Noctua NF-A14 PWM 140mm fans | Windows 7 Pro 64 bit

You must use the recommended PCIE slots as the manual says for your CPU type, PCIE #1 and PCIE #4 if I remember, just open the manual :P for optimal 2Way SLI, also your 5820k will limit to 28 pcie lanes only if you plan to add more vgas...the other problem is your giant CPU air cooler blocking PCIE#1, do a favor to yourself, buy a watercooler for your 5820k and your problems are gone, add some overclock in your system, low noise and better temps.
Here I use 3x980 in SLI with X99S Gaming 9 AC, going soon to WC the VGAs with EK blocks.....3way is far more temperature critical than 2way spaced one.
Cheers

How do you check CPU temperature w/o using Bios?

I saw many many posts about this and just want to make sure I get the correct software to do this (If I can) I'd like to be able to check my temperature without going to the BIOS.
Motherboard K9N2 SLI Platinum
Windows Vista 64 bit
AMD Phenom 9950 quad core processor 2.6 Ghz
Nvidea Geforce 9800 GTX
I saw several references to speedfan but just want to make sure I get the appropriate one. I just got this PC and would like to check the temp over the next few days just to see how everything is doing. Thank You .

Quote from: Frankenputer on 11-October-08, 10:57:55
Google for
Everest
HW monitor
CoreTemp
RealTemp

Mother Temperatures - what is 'normal' and where is the temp taken?

Just wondering what a 'normal' use temp would be for a K8N Neo4 Platnium SLI mobo? I am running everest and it shows me the mobo temp was up at 41C. Too hot? Now, when I run the two 120mm fans that I istalled on the side the mobo temps go down to 34C. Ambient temp is 24C right now.
41C safe?
Also, where does it monitor this temperature?
Thanks,
Mike

It is the CPU temp, right? If so, 41 is in the normal range. Sure, you could also take some measures to low down the temp, which is more better. From your description, you have succeeded to do this. Good job!
There should be a temp sensor located under CPU base, which could know detect current temp signal. The signal was then be amplified, A/D transfer. After that the data would send to BIOS chip. Finally, the BIOS could show the CPU temp on the screen.

Uneven Sli Temperatures

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