Unitor 8 Mk2 Advice...

Hi,
Long time Unitor 8Mk2 user, with a few questions:
1. Can the Unitor take advantage of AMT (Active Midi Timing) in OSX, (or was this an OS9 feature only)?
2. Any ideas if the Unitor will be 64 Bit compatible now or in the future, & are the current 2.5 Unitor Drivers compatible with Mountain Lion?
3. I've read the Motu Midi Express is a lot tighter than the Unitor 8 - any Motu users care to chime in. (I know the Motus are USB2, compared to the Unitors USB1, but if you've a lot of USB2 connected, this could possibly negate any USB speed advantage - especially as the Unitor has it's own power supply).
4. I've also read that PCI-e audio cards (with a midi connection) are the tightest midi solution of all. The audio side would be redundant, as I'm already using Apogees, but could I run such a card alongside a Unitor?
All of the above might seem like overkill, but midi is very important to me - particularly for syncing my MPC3000. (I also have a lot hardware synths).
Any advice would greatly appreciated...
Thanks!

CoreAudio has always been using AMT on OSX. And it's not just about daisy-chained devices, a single device can already have significant delays between the channels.
Unlike audio, midi is not locked to a clock source but simply transmitted when available. The time stamped processing of AMT (or other similar systems) introduces a clock that makes sure that processing buffer granulation in audio hosts or scheduler time slices don't create timing jitter.
This is why midi timestamping is essential for all modern DAW midi use. The default CoreMidi compliant USB driver even supports time stamping. But it's not realized in hardware but at a low granularity kernel level directly before the data goes out over USB.
So these days midi timing is not as good as it could be, but time stamping is highly relevant for getting good results, *because* of the issues introduced by other parts of the system.

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LOGIC 8 with UNITOR 8 MK2. . Why is my 'LTC LOCK Light Flashing on MK2?'

Hi.
I just set-up everything and installed Logic. ..
I couldn't find a set-up wizard to help me with the instruments. .
I plugged in my Control and NORD LEAD and they are all functioning?
The only thing is the Light on My MIDI Device is flashing??
LTC LOCK Flashes on the UNITOR MK2??
Any reason for this??
Sorry, It has been a while and I can't seem to find the problem if there even is one.
Cheers.
Thanks for your help.

I should also point out:
Two things that only serve as small fixes.
1) I can jack my I/O buffer size to 1024, that gets rid of the sound, but the midi response is terrible afterwards.
2) I can bounce out the midi as audio however I've just spent $4000 on my new G5 to avoid having to do this. See first post. Apart from this it makes the signal uneditable later on.
Of course, this has only just started happening these past couple weeks. If I purchase Logic 9, would this fix my problem? Also - I'm not 100% but my suspicion is the problem lies in Logic, not my Motu828. I've reinstalled the MOTU software, and reset the inteface. I suppose I should also point out that working with auc channels like this has always been a huge part of my work flow, so again I find it odd that it's just started to get like this.
Again, here is the scoop -I'll start with any multi-out pluign (UB, EXS24, etc), and then assign sounds to discrete aux channels. I'll set the input of the aux channels to correspond with the appropriate source.
Now I'll use an I/O plugin to to get an analog filter (for example), on my snare. EVERYTHING is fine until . . . . I make a new instrument track. The aux channel that the I/O on it sounds like a burst of PCM noise. Very digital, almost like it's been pitched WAY up.
Guys I'm not trying to be a pain here, that's the last thing I want, but this has been killing me for the past couple of weeks. So could someone PLEASE help me out?
Thank you!
Tyler.

Emagic Unitor 8 MK2 64bit Driver Support !!!

I tried it per Email but no answer so, here i am!
Im the owner of 1 emagic unitor 8mk2 & 1 emagic amt 8.
Apple please when do you provide all the musicans out there the required 64bit drivers for win 64bit / vista? to use the unitors and amts.
please, please please !!
please forward this message to r&d and provide feedback !
thx
br mario

hello thx for this info.
but how can i contact apple directly ?
i don`t want to call them over phone from austia to usa.
by the way > what the f... ? badest support ever = apple
no direct customer support .. or better > if you pay you get ..
pff.
Message was edited by: masterxc

Newbie needs advice using files from Canon 5D Mk2

I'm getting a bit confused when it comes to codecs and frame rates etc and am hoping somebody can steer me in the right direction.
I'm based in the UK and have my camera set up to shoot at 24 frames per sec. I've read that before bringing the .MOV file into FCE it's best to convert it first using MPEG Streamclip.
Ok so I have my .MOV file loaded up but my first problem is I'm unsure what output settings I should now be considering. I assume it should be the Apple Intermediate Codec but then do I need to enter '24' into the frame rate box to match what I have set in the camera? I'm also unsure which frame size I should be choosing... eg; 1920x1080 (16:9), 1920x1080 (HDTV 1080i) etc.
And then once I have my exported file I'm unclear what the sequence settings should be in FCE.
Looking through the 'Load Sequence Preset' should I be choosing Apple Intermediate Code 1920x1080i50 or i60 or something else altogether?
Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks Tom, but what's the difference in FCE sequence settings between choosing Apple Intermediate Codec 1920x1080i50 and 1920x1080i60? Any idea which I should be using? If any?

MacBook Pro, Alesis Monitor One MK2 Speakers, now what?!?!

OK, dumb question alert -
I'm editing using Final Cut Pro on my MacBook and was told I should look into a pair of studio monitors. Heard good things about the Alesis Monitor One MK2 speakers and decided to dive in. I knew that I would need cables to connect, however I also thought that the instruction manual would help with this. I was wrong. Really wrong!!
I got some advice that the Hosa YMP137 could help connect the cables to my Macbook, but I'm still lost. Anyone know how I can get this done??? Do I need an amp??? Any advice would help!!!!

This is one of the most crucial purchases you will make. I know there is a budget here, but decent monitors will save you a lot of grief. Just look for the flattest line possible on the frequency response sheet. I highly reccomend the Mackie HR824s, or perhaps the smaller version. Cheaper monitors have a "sound" of thier own, which you may find yourself compensating for at mixdown. If they sound bassy, your mixes will come out thin. If they are bright, your mixes will come out muffled. It is like trying to paint an accurate portrait wearing colored sunglasses. Speaking of your budget. I dont have a lot of money either, but consider this. If you dont get what you really want first. You will get it later, therefore the price will go up to cover the cost of what you want, and what you bought instead, and later replaced. I find the Mackies the most sensible because they are right up there with the best of them, but are a bit more affordable than most.

I was given some advice here to restore my macbook OS that was having a glitch I now realize was nothing, by sliding in the original OSX disk at start up and holding the C key down?

So now my problem is herindous, my mac is crashed and it says I need to click repair disk if repair fails back up and erase the disc?
I have limited access to anything and would like to know how to back it up if possible, I have bought a 500G seagate, but nothing seems to be working
I have the snow leopard disc in it and it is open with Disc Utility, the repair disc did not work so I need to back up and erase, BUT HOW?
Please any one with some competence as far as knowing what they are talking about so I can get off this DELL Windows laptop, It's miserable!
Please good reliable advice needed with step by step blows for recovery, I have the MAC OS X Installer open showing both the Macintosh HD and the FreeAge Drive side by side,
Can I just load the Snow Leopard on the Freeagent and operate my computer like that to get by?
HELP PLEASE?
Sound confusing, I have been at it over 18 hours now with all involved and pulling my hair out!
Sincerely grateful for some reliable advice from a mac expert!

Me again, I am not rushing here for the obvious reasons, I dont expect to hear from you tonight (so late) hopefully 2marrow.
Thinking closer about the way you worded it I dont think I actually booted of the disk, rather just able to access (Mac OS X Installer) that further allows me to access through clicking on (Utilities),
(Disc Utility). With it open to begin the (Erase) of the free agent drive,
I click on (erase) and the options open to be chosen of Format:
included in those options I don't have what you listed for me to choose, the available options are:
Mac OS Extended (journaled)
Mac OS Extended
Mac OS Extended (Case-sensitave,journaled)
Mac OS Extended (Case-sensitave)
MS-DOS (FAT)
And under that is a space for Name: and it could be anything of my choise it by default automatically put in (FREEAGENT G)
fURTHER DOWN AVAILABLE OPTIONS TO CLICK ON ARE
Securiety Options: That compile 4 ranging from Don't Erase Data / to a 35-Pass Zero Out Data
And finally the slightly smaller space available for me to click on that says (ERASE....) and it starts the scrub I figure.
Now that would be the first part of two I would need to complete to hopefully get off this Dell from Windows Haties!
Step 2) It would be nice if I could just drag the Mac OS x install DVD to the FreeAgent and it would load it, and maybe it's possible?? I know everything about nothing! Famously.
But the next possible options back in (DISC Utility) when I am clicked on (The install DVD) are first aid, erase, and Restore
Then other options open to click on depending on what is chosen?
I am sorry to be so handy cap needy, with my long history of (if there is anything worse that can happen it will happen to me) as it does and I have to accept the fact It can always be worse! I know yah it could, but then all mighty God would no longer have me the human hamster to bowel and toss around, and would get bored.
***************So I guess the first Mystery here is where's the (GUID) PARTITION option?*************************
Ihave found an option under (RAID) that makes more available striped, Mirriored, and Concentrated (RAID Types)
With (Format:) options the same as I listed above
I do understand if your too busy and unable to get back as well,

Multiple device syncing advice needed and appreciated.

Hey everyone, happy holidays to everyone
I need some advice from you Apple lovers out there if you can spend some time replying. Thanks alot in advanced
My devices and current status
13" Macbook Pro with 8gig RAM with lion OS - Mosty used for word processing, DJing, low Internet usage now that i have Ipad, photo management, DVD ripping etc etc - i use this as my main device to organise emails and i purchase most apps, music and films on this device too
Ipad2 - Mostly for media content, web browsing, Youtube, playing games, FB, watching films. I use this device for fun not functionality or work related things
Iphone 4 - Usual phone usage, I use my phone as my main device for iCal, contacts, checking emails/messages on the move
2GB time capsule - brand new in the box as yet unused
Generally speaking i get confused or change my mind frequently about what to sync to which device, i started off using icloud but then things got confusing and i had things real messed up, multiple same contacts, apps on differnet device, differnet music on all 3 devices so now for the moment i think of my Macbook as the main device with both my iphone and ipad backed up to the Macbook. I then back up all of this on a regular 500g external Hard Drive.
So my questions are as follows
1. Can and should i use icloud to back up my devices and if so how should i do this effectivly
2. What syncing procedure would suit me best
3. How should i integrate Timecapsule to my devices
Any other suggestions would really be apreciated
Thanks again

The second part puzzles me - excuse me (but i honestly don't know) do both units give off a wifi signal of roughly equal 'amounts'?
Yes. Since both are connected by "Ethernet" each base station is its own wireless network and you have a few options on how best to configure them.
One of those options is to give both wireless networks the same Network Name (or SSID) so that you can, for example, "walk" a laptop from one to the other and stay connected. This is known as a roaming network.
If this is something that you don't desire or have a requirement for, then leaving them as two separate wireless networks would work just as well.
So what i am asking - i guess - is can i increase the distance the wifi signal reaches of the second unit (the time capsule - that is wired to the airport extreme)
To extend the wireless range of the Time Capsule (TC) you would need another 802.11n AirPort, like the AirPort Express Base Station (AXn). This should get a stronger signal out to the garden. Of course, it would really depend on the distance from the TC to where you would like to place the AXn to get the best results.
Let me know if you need help configuring the base stations.

Lenovo Z710 - Major Performance Problems - Expert Advice Needed

Three months ago I bought Lenovo Z710 laptop.
Here are some system properties:
Intel Core i7 4700MQ CPU @ 2.40 GHz,
8GB RAM
Hybrid 1TB + SSHD(8G),
NVIDIA GeForce GT 740M / 2 GB,
DVD-R,
Win 8.1
After using the device for 3 months I can't describe with words how dissapointed I am.
It is unbelievably slow. The device with this configuration should do very easily hard things.
However, I have troubles doning even simple things.
For example, currently I am only browsing web and listening music from youtube.
Opening a new web page in Chrome takes 30-40 seconds. Opening a new tab takes aprox. 10 seconds.
Selecting a text and copying it, takes 15 seconds. It is even very frustrating to type even a web address because of the obvious delay in typing. Furthermore, when I listen to music there is also a delay - that makes even listening to music unbelievably frustrating. Just to mention one more time - I only have chrome running!
I have 2 Partitions - C disk (442 GB) and disk D (488 GB).
On disk C I installed Win 8.1. and at the moment on disk C 391 GB are free.
I use disk D is mostly intended for storing images, movies, and music. On this disk 258 GB are free.
Regarding the programs I installed on top of Windows, here is the list: micro Torrent, Adobe Photoshop, Android SDK Tools, Android studio, Avast Internet Security, Brackets, Corona SDK, Dropbox, Foxit Cloud, Foxit Reader, Chrome, Greenshot, MS Office, Mozilla, Skype, Notepad, VLC Player, WinRAR, XAMPP.
When I open Task Manager I see that used CPU resources are aprox. 10%, Memory aprox 35%, Disk 2%, Network 5%.
I am the only user of the device.
In Task manager I read that only Chrome takes the most of the resources taking 130 MB memory.
So why is the device with 4 physical i7 Intel processory and 8 GB SSD so slow, that I can't even type without disturbance with delays?
I don't understand how the device with mentioned hardware can be so slow.
And regarding the software, I don't understand whtat could slow the device - I mentiond what programs were installed and to what extent are resorurces being used.
Please give me your advice on what else can I check and what shoudl I do.

Can you run a system health check once and see if anything is flagged? To do so,
1. Press the + R keys to open the Run dialog, type perfmon, and click/tap on OK.
2. If prompted by UAC, click/tap on Yes.
3. In the left pane of Performance Monitor, click/tap on Data Collector Sets to expand it, click/tap on System to expand it, right click on System Diagnostics, and click on Start. (see screenshot below)
4. It will collect data for 60 seconds before the system diagnostics report will be ready to view instep 3 of OPTION TWO below.
More information here
http://www.eightforums.com/tutorials/52013-system-health-report-generate-view-windows-8-1-a.html
Cheers and regards,
• » νιנαｿѕαяα∂нι ѕαмανє∂αм ™ « •
●๋•کáŕádhí'ک díáŕý ツ
I am a volunteer here. I don't work for Lenovo

I have an older 8GB iPod Touch no longer supported by tech. It is locked up in "Restore" mode and fails to respond to 2-button reset. I get the apple logo and then it pos back to the cord and disc icon for restore. Any advice?

I have an older 8GB black iPod Touch (no bluetooth) no longer supported by tech. It is "locked" in restore mode. When I do a 2 button reset I can get the Apple logo but then it pops back to the synch cord-and-music disc icon indicative of restore. Any advice?

Hello honeycrisp70,
For that error, check out the article below for additional troubleshooting to get it sorted out. If it continues then you may need to contact Apple support.
Resolve iOS update and restore errors
http://support.apple.com/en-us/TS3694
Check for hardware issues
Related errors: 1, 3, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 16, 20, 21, 23, 26, 27, 28, 29, 34, 35, 36, 37, 40, 1000, 1002, 1004, 1011, 1012, 1014, 1667, or 1669.
These errors mean that your device or computer may have a hardware issue that's preventing the update or restore from completing.
Check that your security software and settings aren't preventing your device from communicating with the Apple update server.
Then try to restore your iOS device two more times while connected with a cable, computer, and network you know are good.
Confirm that your security software and settings are allowing communication between your device and update servers.
If you still see the error message when you update or restore, contact Apple support.
Regards,
-Norm G.

I have recently upgraded to 7.0.2 and can no longer charge my iphone 4 as i recieve the message this accessory may not be supported, any advice would be appreciated

i have recently upgraded to 7.0.2 and can no longer charge my iphone 4 as i recieve the message this accessory may not be supported, any advice would be appreciated
i have also tried 4 different chargers both official apple and non official

i have tried this but still not working i found a way of fixing it by restoring the phone but this has now put my phone in recovery mode and when i try to fix it i get an error 14 which i have no clue what it means

After a Lion clean install, how do I retrieve my data from external back-up? Following Apple advice for use of Migration Assistant did not work creating similar issues leading to clean install.

After a Lion clean install, how do I retrieve my data from external hard drive?
Following Apple advice I used Migration Assistant which crashed new system twice which is why I had to clean install Lion in the first place.
Is there a sure way of doing it?
I have only a few programs that I will have to install myself and that should not be a problem.
I just want my data, music and photos back where I can use them.

Time machine backups. I went to migration assistant a few hours ago and limited my selection to "users", no need for applications, settings and other files. Stuff started moving over at a fast pace but has now seemed to stall.
I will let it run overnight as there are lots of songs and photos as well as a few movies.
If that does not work, then I will go into TM and try restore. I have restored some things in the past such a mail files and it has worked well.
The Apple fellow at the store told me to go right into TM, he may have had a point. I'll get it eventually.

Need advice/opinion on disk repair

My computer crashed...twice. Upon the advice...and help...of Apple, I did a complete reinstall of my harddrive. It seems to be working well now, but when I run Disk Utility, I get the following message:
A few lines of that just say 'checking' this and that
The last line says, "The volume MacIntosh HD appears to be okay."
Then in bold, it says, Repair attempted on 1 volume.
Then in red, it says 'HFS Volume repaired."
Apple tells me that it should NOT continue to say the repair has been attempted and repaired. That really means there is still something wrong. The only message that means everything is okay is "The volume MacIntosh HD appears to be okay." I have run disk utility a number of times, I continue to get the same message, even though I theoretically have a new HD.
I then ran Disk Warrior. It corrected a bunch of things with iMovie, and now I'm getting a clear report. Disk Utility however still gives the same message that Apple says indicates something is wrong.
Yesterday we put in new memory and checked the capacitor. There was only one that we could see (someone said there were two), but there was no cracking or leaking.
My question: Is there something wrong? Restored hard drive, computer seems to be running well, Disk Warrior corrected everything and gives a clean report, capacitor seems okay, but Disk Utility continues with the strange message that Apple says may indicate a problem. Is there cause to worry? Should I do anything else?
Thanks for the help! You people are fabulous; I am so grateful for this board.
Oh, yes, my eMac is almost two years old. I have Panther still.

I'd put a lot more trust in Disk Warrior than in the Panther version of Disk Utility, so as long as Disk Warrior is giving you a clean bill of health, you shouldn't need to worry and can just blame it on some garbled Disk Utility setting. As a WAG, it might help to open Applications> Utilities> Console, View all logs, select ~/Library/Logs/DiskUtility.log, and delete that, then see what re-running Disk Utility> Verify Disk shows.

Rules/Advice for use of FCE/iMovie

Reading through many posts seems I find some general rules of thumb not found elsewhere. Thanks in advance for all comments.
For serious video editing work and creation an external firewire HDD is needed, mainly to avoid dropped frames in either FCE or iMovie (iM). The new 20" iMac and external HDD (with 2 firewire connections, for the input device (DV camcorder or DV/SVHS deck) and to the iMac) should be able to run either FCE/iM.
I just did a 45 min project in iM with no noted dropped frames but likely would in much longer projects if I don't get the external drive?
Audio bit rate. Advice I read for iM is that without 16 bit audio the audio gets out of sync in long projects--does FCE also need 16 instead of 12? Not knowing this need, I've recorded a number of projects (with a DV deck and a DV camcorder) in 12--can I capture to the iMac/external HDD in 16 if I'm playing from a source tape that's 12?
Chapter Markers. Seems there are "Rules for Chapter Markers" that I won't repeat here but suspect they apply to both FCE/iM when used with iDVD. Do those rules apply when you use DVDStudio instead of iDVD? One rule I haven't seen yet is that one should likely not use the apply chapter markers option in iDVD as it could apply a marker that violates the "rules" and cause strange results in the DVD when played, right?
Any other rules or concerns I've missed--perhaps always max out on RAM even if its rather costly? What other basic tips or secrets should I know for editing with these products?
Dale

I'll just cover a couple of your points:
Hard drvies: Internal HDs are actually a better choice, overall, than external ones .... if you have the option to have a separate HD for your Scratch Disc. You should not be storing your meids (your video) on the same disc where FCE lives, in other words, your system disc. Also, space is important; you should never let your scratch disc (your media disc) get too full. I think the reccomendation is something like you should always have 25% of that disc free. So, if you can do that with an internal, go ahead; if not, an external is your only option
RAM: More RAM is good; if you can, I would go up to at least a Gig but this would be more for other apps or running multiple apps at the same time. I ran my G5 on 512mb RAM for a year with few probs (BTW, I'm a pro wedding editor) FCE performance is more determined by Processor speed than RAM anyway
Dropped frames: Lotsa reasons for this but some ways to avoid it is to not have a lot of sequences open at once, lowering your RT settings, not running programs in the background, etc
Audio: As Ian already suggested, the rule for bit rates in FCE is to keep it all the same, so even any music you import should be resampled as a AIFF that matches your sequence ie all 12 bit or all 16 bit. Frankly, I don't know why someone would shoot in 12 bit; it is a lower quality sample rate. Some peeps do it cuz their particular cam allows them to acces other audio tracks in 12 bit; audio tracks you probably wont be able to capture in FCE anyway. At any rate, just keep that sampling rate all the same and you should not have any probs with sync.
Another key point in FCE that when you do your final export, you have to mixdown your audio. From Edit, Select All then go Sequence>Render Only>Mixdown
Chapters: Basic rules for this in FCE is you can't have a chapter marker less than one second away from the beginning or end of your program. I think iMovie has probs if you place a chapter marker right on a transition; FCE is more forgiving but I tend not to do this too much, it doesn't look very neat in playback. When you set your chapter markers, don't forget to select the Chapter Marker option in the submenu and don't erase the <Chapter> heading: that does not show up in your export. When exporting, make sure nothing is selected in your timeline and use Export as Quicktime Movie and select Chapters from the pulldown

Changed e-mail password in windows live account - now cannot send email from iphone. Have deleted the account from the iphone and reinstalled it - the password is correct - still no luck - any advice ?

I changed the password in my windows live e-mail account. My iphone now recieves but will no longer send e-mails. I have deleted the account from the iPhone - reinstalled it and verified the password is correct. I recieve a message that "Cannot Send Mail" "the user name or password ... is incorrect. Any advice ?

Hello DRB1962
Check to make sure that you validated the device within your account on webmail.
iOS: Setting up Hotmail, Outlook, Live, or MSN email accounts
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1694
Thanks for using Apple Support Communities.
Regards,
-Norm G.

After moving to iCloud I can only get my email through the cloud, no new emails are making it to my home computer. Does anyone have any advice on how to fix this issue?

After moving to iCloud I can only get my email through the cloud, no new emails are making it to my home computer and .mac account. Does anyone have any advice on how to fix this issue?

Welcome to the Apple Community.
Which OS are you using.

Unitor 8 Mk2 Advice...

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