Verizon DSL Newbie needs Home Networking Help

I am a brand new Verizon DSL user (on my i-MAC G3 OS Panther) and I would love to be able to access the same DSL connection with my i-Book G4 (also OS Panther with an Airport Extreme card built in).
I tried looking this up on Verizon's website and quickly became totally confused. Verizon seems to think MAC users are second class citizens.
Would someone be willing to tell me exactly how to do this? Do I need a router? Do I need an Airport Base Station?
Thanks much, and please forgive my ignorance.

I have a verizon westell dsl wireless router which is working fine when the 3 macs (1 g3 powermac, 2 ibook g4's - all panther) on the network are hard wired.. but when you try to connect wirelessly, the ip address found in the TCPIP DHCP is a 169 address.. not 192.. and even though it seems to see the router.. you cannot connect to the internet. Anyone have a clue... I've tried manually typing in a 192 addy in the range which for a moment fools Airport and it states in Network Status that is's connected to the internet.. but it's not... I've also done the old un plug the router. restart the mac.. turn airport on and off drill and again.. nothing...I'm stumped... At one time we were able to connect wirelessly to this router.. but now no...HELP PLEASE!

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Home networking help please

My new iPod has lead me to quickly fill the hard drive on my laptop. I've looked at the options for how to address this and have decided a wireless home network is the answer. I think all I need is an old PC (c. P3 1GHz) with a big hard drive and a wireless card and a bit of time to set it up.
I've never considered this before and it will definitely be stretching my technical skills, but I'm ready to learn. Can anyone recommend a good guide as to how to get started and just what I need to do? I seem to be able to buy what I think is a suitable spec tower PC for c. £100 and a new 250gb hard drive for £90. Am I being naive thinking it's this straight forward?

Why not simply get a USB or FireWire removable drive?
Gonna be a zillion times easier. Simply plug it in.
No need to have to mess with another computer, OS problems, networking problems, wireless cards, etc.
100 quid for 300 GB.
eBay UK External HArd Drives

Home Networking help needed.

All: I am refinishing the basement and installed some ethernet to 2 walls. I outlet for a TV (when I buy it) and another for a PC (for if the resident needs it). I also want to have my wireless from upstairs be a strong signal.
So I need to know the device that will:
1) Pick up my existing wireless signal and repeat it for the basement rooms wirelessly.
2) Have 2 ethernet ports available for the hard wiring I put in.
The location for this in the drop ceiling has an 110V outlet readily available next to it.
Can someone guide me what I need to purchase to complete this and test the wiring (connectorization) I did?
Thanks a ton: Ed

I tend to like Ubiqiti (http://www.ubnt.com/ ) products but they can be difficult to find. These are dedicated APs, they do no routing and you'd need to also get an Ethernet switch (any old switch will do) to take the one hardwire drop from upstairs and provide a few wired ports (2 for the walljacks and 1 for the AP) downstairs. I linked to a switch below.
Also nearly any wireless router can be reconfigured as a combo AP/switch, in which case I'd just reccommend something with stable firmware. (This can be hard, you just have to read LOTS of reviews, or find something on the DD-WRT compatibility list and flash the router with that firmware. Note that DD-WRT will void a router's warranty, but if you put it into a cheap router it's usually worth the risk.)
D-Link Green Ethernet 5-Port 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet Switch
Model: DGS-2205 | SKU: 7907704
This 5-port 10/100/1000 Gigabit switch provides an effective solution for expanding your Gigabit network. Power-saving features help make your network environmentally friendly without compromising performance.
4.1 Read reviews (16)
Sale: $34.99
*disclaimer* I am not now, nor have I ever been, an employee of Best Buy, Geek Squad, nor of any of their affiliate, parent, or subsidiary companies.

Home Networking HELP?

Hey guys. I have 1 dell laptop,and 1acer netbook, and 1 kodak all in one printer. All with wireless capabilities. We dont have a modem to connect to our Linkseys router, but I am wondering if I can still setup both pcs to wirelessly use the printer. Without a cable modem.

A) First of all, this is not as hard as it looks. Even though your router has hundreds of settings, you only need to change a few of them from the defaults, to setup the network you described. You will need to setup the router first, then your wireless computer(s), then your wireless printer.
B) Copy your router's User Guide to your computer's C: drive, so that you can easily access it.   Additionally, you will probably want to print it, because the printout is often easier to read or access.
C) Next, reset the router to factory defaults. This will get your router back to a known state.
To reset your router to factory defaults, use the following procedure:
1) Power down all computers, the router, and the modem, and unplug them from the wall.
2) Disconnect all wires from the router.
3) Power up the router and allow it to fully boot (1-2 minutes).
4) Press and hold the reset button for 30 seconds, then release it, then let the router reset and reboot (2-3 minutes).
5) Power down the router.
6) Connect one computer by wire to port 1 on the router (NOT to the internet port).
7) Power up the router and allow it to fully boot (1-2 minutes).
8) Power up the computer (if the computer has a wireless card, make sure it is off).
9) Try to ping the router. To do this, click the "Start" button > All Programs > Accessories > Command Prompt. A black DOS box will appear. Enter the following: "ping 192.168.1.1" (no quotes), and hit the Enter key. You will see 3 or 4 lines that start either with "Reply from ... " or "Request timed out." If you see "Reply from ...", your computer has found your router.
10) Open your browser and point it to 192.168.1.1. This will take you to your router's login page. Leave the user name blank, and in the password field, enter "admin" (with no quotes). This will take you to your router setup page. Note the version number of your firmware (usually listed near upper right corner of screen). Exit your browser.
If you get this far without problems, proceed to "ROUTER SETUP" below.
If you cannot get "Reply from ..." in step 9 above, your router is likely dead. Report back with this problem
If you get a reply in step 9, but cannot complete step 10, then either your router is dead or the firmware is corrupt. Report back with this problem.
If you need additional help, please state the router model and version, and the results of steps 9 and 10. Also, if you get any error messages, copy them exactly and report back.
*************   ROUTER SETUP   *************
To set up wireless security, you must use a computer that is wired to the router.
Where to find the router settings: The router's login password is usually on one of the "Administration" pages. The other settings are all found in the "Wireless" or the "Security" section of the router's setup pages, located at 192.168.1.1
First, give your router a unique SSID. Don't use "linksys".
Make sure "SSID Broadcast" is set to "enabled".
Next, leave the router at its default wireless settings (except for the unique SSID), and then use your pc to connect wirelessly to the router. Test your wireless Internet connection and make sure it is working correctly. You must have a properly working wireless connection before setting up wireless security.
To implement wireless security, you need to do one step at a time, then verify that you can still connect your wireless computer to the router.
Next, encrypt your wireless system using the highest level of encryption that all of your wireless devices will support. Common encryption methods are:
WEP - poor (see note below)
WPA (sometimes called PSK, or WPA with TKIP) - good
WPA2 (sometimes called PSK2, or WPA with AES) - best
WPA and WPA2 sometimes come in versions of "personal" and "enterprise". Most home users should use "personal". Also, if you have a choice between AES and TKIP, and your wireless equipment is capable of both, choose AES. With any encryption method, you will need to supply a key (sometimes called a "password" ).
The wireless devices (computers, printers, etc.) that you have will need to be set up with the SSID, encryption method, and key that matches what you entered in the router.
Retest your system and verify that your wireless Internet connection is still working correctly.
And don't forget to give your router a new login password.
Picking Passwords (keys):   You should never use a dictionary word as a password. If you use a dictionary word as a password, even WPA2 can be cracked in a few minutes. When you pick your login password and encryption key (or password or passphrase) you should use a random combination of capital letters, small letters, and numbers, but no spaces. A login password, should be 12 characters or more. WPA and WPA2 passwords should be at least 24 characters. Note: Your key, password, or passphrase must not have any spaces in it.
Most home users should have their routers set so that "remote management" of the router is disabled. If you must have this option enabled, then your login password must be increased to a minumum of 24 random characters.
One additional issue is that Windows XP requires a patch to run WPA2. The patch is located in SP3, so you will need SP3 to run WPA2 in Win XP. Vista already supports WPA2.
Note:
WEP is no longer recommended. The FBI has demonstrated that WEP can be cracked in just a few minutes using software tools that are readily available over the Internet. Even a long random character password will not protect you with WEP. You should be using WPA or preferably WPA2 encryption.
Message Edited by toomanydonuts on 01-20-2010 03:56 AM

Photoshop Elements 7: Newbie Needs Drop Shadow Help, Please

Hello.
I'm brand new to Adobe Photoshop Elements 7 and need help with the Drop Shadow feature, please.
I've read the documentation, but it's not crystal clear to me, so maybe someone can guide me through it.
I want to create text on a blank white canvas, and add a little bit of drop shadow to it. That's all I want to do--plain and simple.
I can create the text, but I can't for the life of me find any drop shadow options.
The documentation I'm using is the on-line, web-based help. I type in Drop Shadow in Search, and select Add Text to a Slide.
The third step says, "In the Properties palette, set any of the following options" and then offers some options, including Drop Shadow and Drop Shadow Color.
I'll be darned if I can locate the Properties palette. Obviously, I'm not well-versed with Photoshop, so if anyone can just steer me towards this feature, I'll take things from there.
I know this is probably rock-bottom basic, but I'm stumped. Thank you!
J. Danniel

I need a lot more help with this than I thought.
The problem I'm having is this: After creating the drop shadow effect, when I try to save the image as a transparent GIF, it quite simply.... looks horrible.
Here is what I'm doing in detail:
1. New/Blank File.
2. Blank File is set to transparent. (Is this the right way to make a transparent GIF?)
3. Creating text.
4. Cropping text.
5. Selecting drop shadow effect.
Now, here's where I get confused. Do I just select File/Save As, or File/Save For Web?
When I just use File/Save As, and select the GIF format, the drop shadow effect in the final file looks horrible when I embed the image into a web page. The text looks good, and the file is transparent, but the effect is ugly.
When I try to use Save for Web, there is a Before/After screen. The Before side looks decent; the After screen looks horrible, too.
So, now I don't know what to do. Can you or anyone guide me through this a bit further, please? Thank you! Jd

2nd MBP has messed up my home network--help please

I have a linksys wireless router. I have a MBP 1.83 gz and my MBP 2.2 GZ just arrived today. I turned them both on, both will get onto my wireless network (which is WEP protected) and then after two or three minutes neither computer can go online. Instead of showing a full strenght airport icon (which is normally shown) it shows one bar missing on both computers' airport icon. If I reset the router, I can get on one computer and be online, but as soon as I add the other computer, then I am unable to surf.
I also noticed that if I restart my new MBP I have to restart the router to be able to go on line.
I imagine there is some setting in the router causing this, but my knowledge is very limted. Any suggestions or resources would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance and I will be sure to mark your reply as helpful.
Owen Pillion

My wireless router is set up as Automatic Configuration DHCP.
Each computer works fine without the other on. If both are on, my original one works, but the new one cannot get on line.
I do not know how to get the ip configurations of my mac (I wish I did--I dont even know what that is). And I do not know how to see if both are using the same ip address or how to tell the computers to use different ones.
I know that my wireless network has been working fine. I have even used a PC notebook, been able to enter the WEP password, and surf with the MBP on. But with two MBPs--No surfing happening.

Newbie needs some simple help on triggers

Hi there. I need to create a trigger and am very new to this language and would love some help.
I have tables STUDENT, BOOKS, BORROWING.
When a student borrows a book, a composite entry is created in the BORROWING table. In the Books table, their is an attribute 'Borrowed' with a Y or N.
When a new record with the same Title as a book is created in borrowing, the value of 'borrowed' needs to be set to Y. So far I have the following, but forgot that I need to insert a WHERE clause so that it doesnt update every book, but only the book that causes the trigger.
I am having trouble with this- how would i go about doing this? Any help appreacited...
CREATE OR REPLACE TRIGGER book_returned_trigger
AFTER DELETE ON borrowing
FOR EACH ROW
BEGIN
UPDATE books
SET
borrowed= 'N';
END;

Hi guys. Am really having some trouble now. Funny thing is I had it working!
I have the following tables:
>
CREATE TABLE STUDENT
     studentID VARCHAR2(8) NOT NULL,
     firstname VARCHAR2(20) NOT NULL,
     lastname VARCHAR2(20) NOT NULL,
     gender VARCHAR2(10),
     dob DATE,
     address VARCHAR2(20),
     suburb VARCHAR2(20),
     phone VARCHAR2(8),
     PRIMARY KEY(studentID)
CREATE TABLE BOOKS
     title VARCHAR2(20) NOT NULL,
     publisher VARCHAR2(20),
     year DATE,
     borrowed CHAR(1) CHECK (borrowed IN ('Y','N')),
     PRIMARY KEY(title)
CREATE TABLE BORROWING
     studentID VARCHAR2(8) NOT NULL,
     title VARCHAR2(20) NOT NULL,
     PRIMARY KEY(studentID,title),
     FOREIGN KEY(studentID) REFERENCES student(studentID),
     FOREIGN KEY(title) REFERENCES books(title)
>
My Triggers look like this:
>
CREATE OR REPLACE TRIGGER book_borrowed_trigger
AFTER INSERT ON borrowing
FOR EACH ROW
BEGIN
UPDATE books
SET
borrowed= 'Y' WHERE title = :OLD.title;
END;
CREATE OR REPLACE TRIGGER book_returned_trigger
AFTER DELETE ON borrowing
FOR EACH ROW
BEGIN
UPDATE books
SET
borrowed= 'N' WHERE title = :OLD.title;
END;
>
and some sample date:
>
INSERT INTO student (studentID, firstname,
lastname, gender, dob, address, suburb, phone)
VALUES ('34025492','Sally','Field','Female',
'26/FEB/1970','123 Latrobe Pde','Dromana','59812553');
INSERT INTO student (studentID, firstname,
lastname, gender, dob, address, suburb, phone)
VALUES ('98503345','Ray','Blackburn','Female',
'9/NOV/1954','52 Murawa Dve','Sorrento','59812433');
INSERT INTO books (title, publisher, year, borrowed)
VALUES ('Harry Potter','Roundhouse','1998','N');
INSERT INTO books (title, publisher, year, borrowed)
VALUES ('Twilight','Jones Books','2000','N');
INSERT INTO borrowing (studentID, title)
VALUES ('20737785','Harry Potter');
>
Now I cant get this trigger to change the value of the 'borrowed' column in 'BOOKS' to Y when I create a new record in the BORROWING table that references one of the Books.
Any idea why? I cant see why! Thanks for the help so far guys
Edited by: lockmac on Apr 1, 2009 12:40 AM

Newbie ~ Need iWeb / movie help ~ PC's having problems

Hello, please bear with me, I am a newbie. I am using iWeb to create a site for family and friends to keep up with my kids.
www.jimcreighton.com
or
web.mac.com/creightonfamily
I have recently tried my hand at a small movie clip. When I go to the site I see it just fine. When I use my sons PC, using IE, I see it fine. However I am getting lots of emails from frustrated grandparents and others that they are either totally unable to see it at all. (A white "box") or they are able to see the screen but when they hit play, they get sound only.
Is this an issue on my end? Or on thier end?
Please remember that I am a total newbie at this, so be kind in your replies! Thanks in advance for any and all help.
G5 iMac, G4 Powerbook Mac OS X (10.4.6)

Those that get a white "box" and sound are using older versions of QuickTime.
Ask them to download QuickTime Player version 7 from this link:
http://www.apple.com/quicktime/download/
Once they've installed version 7 they'll be able to see your movie.

Newbie- Fresh home Setup Help

About to get started with osx server on a mac mini. I've purchased a static IP, because I want to serve my websites from home. Question is, I also have a mac pro and macbook and PC. the IP comes through on a cable modem, which I connect to a router to serve the rest of the clients using dhcp.
How should I configure this system so that when someone points to my IP or rather my dns name, they access my files in apache on the mac mini.
I ask because I'm wondering if the outside world can see my mini beyond the dhcp enabled router

Your router will do all the filtering for incoming traffic. By default it should be blocking all incoming connections (this is what you want).
However, you can configure port forwarding on the router to permit specific incoming traffic (e.g. port 80/HTTP) to be directed to a specific internal machine (e.g. the Mini).
You'd need to check your router's documentation on how to configure port forwarding.
Once you've setup port forwarding, update your DNS to point your domain record (e.g. 'www.domain.com') to the public IP address of your router - port forwarding will take care of getting it to the Mini from there.
Just be aware that many (most?) cable providers block incoming traffic on port 80 because they don't want you running a server on your link (unless you're using a business-grade service). Therefore you may find that remote users may not be able to get to your server even if you do the above. If that's the case your options are to switch providers or upgrade your service to one where they'll allow you to run a server.

Newbie needs scroll bar help

Hello anyone,
I am fairly new to flash, I am using the MX version. I am
having trouble getting my scroll bars to load with the page load?
The bar shows up, but it does not give the option to scroll. If I
click off the page and return to it then the slider is there and it
works, but not on initial load. I have tried to set the action
script run on load but this has not worked. I am a little confused
and any help would be greatly appriciated.
Also as an aside issue, can you load images into a text
box?

am I on the right board for this type of question? I am not
very knowledgable in action scripts, but I have been trough the
tutorials and I bought the action scripts for dummies book, however
I have done everything that they say to do and still can't get the
bars to work right.
any help or redirection for help somewhere else would be
greatly appriciated.

ITune Newbie needs Log-in Help

I just purchased a iPod Classic last week and should receive it tomorrow. In the process I created an Apple account.
I want to purchase a few songs before the iPod arrives but the iTunes account does not reconize my password. I have reset it three times but still can not get into iTunes.
Do I have to create another different account for iTunes?
Thanks for your help,
Doug

Wish I had been so lucky. I have now been in e mail discussion with the iTunes support centre for a fortnight with what sounds like the same initial problem.
I have a fully functioning Apple Id which i can use successfully in the Apple store, but this is not recognised by the iTunes store. Unfortunately I am not getting the follow on message allowing me to create the iTunes account under my Apple ID.
Has any one else had this problem? If so, please let me know how to resolve it as I have had no luck with iTunes support to date.
Thanks

Newbie needs InDesign CS5 help: text overflow into new page

Hello... so, I've been using InDesign CS5 to create a document, because it transfers nicely into the pdf format. I had written most of the stuff a couple months ago, am transferring it to InDesign via copy and paste, and then have to go in an "re-do" the bolds and italics and hyper links etc, b/c it does not transfer those things to InDesign. I can live with that. However, with this 10+ page document, how can I copy all my text and paste it onto 10 pages+ of InDesign, rather than piece-by-piece on a page-by-page basis?
As of now, I have to take the first page of my original, and then copy and paste and estimate, add and subtract until the sizing is right... and then I have to do that with page 2... and page 3... and page 4.. and... well, you get the idea. More than 10 pages of this! Now, the straw breaking this camel's back is the fact that I have to go in and do a revision in one part... so that I have to move and shift part of page 2 to page 3, and page 3 to page 4, and page 4 to page 5, and... ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!
Is there ANY way to get text to simply overflow from one page to the next? When you try to drag a text box down to the next page you've added, it stops at the bottom of the page and will not let you flow into the next page. I am not particularly tech savvy and don't know coding or html or etc. I am looking for a way to allow text to flow from one page to the next as if you were writing a Word doc.
I have 80 more pages and 7 more documents to do this with. Please help! I want to cry at the thought of dealing with this in every single 8 to 12 page document I'm recreating.

All is not lost for autoflow even using copy paste. Here's a nifty little trick that will help you:
ID does not require a text frame before you paste, so if you don't start with one, or don't use the one you've already drawn, ID will conveniently draw a 2" square text frame in the center of the screen if you issue a paste command. This frame will contain all of the copied text, but most of it will be overset (you'll see a red plus sign inthe "out port" on the lower right of the frame).
Overset text can be picked up and flowed using autoflow, just as if you were placing a text file, so use the selection tool (black arrow) to select that small text frame if it isn't already selected, then click the red plus sign to pick up the overset. You should now have a loaded text cursor that looks sort of like the upper left corner of a page. DON'T click it anywhere yet.
First press backspace to delete the small text frame (which should have remained selected). Now you can start your auto-flow holding the Shift key and clicking your loaded cursor wherever you like. All of the text, including what was visible in the now deleted frame is in the cursor waiting for you.

Verizon DSL drops out intermittently: problems for 10 months

Subject: Verizon DSL drops out intermittently: problems for 10 months
Hi all,
Just wondering if any one can help. We had Verizon DSL on our home phone line for six years in Worcester MA. The first five years we had little to problems. The last 10 months we’ve have frequent (nearly every day drop out and period where the DSL line can’t connect for minutes to sometimes hours).
We’ve had seven different technicians visit us for a total of thirteen visits. They’ve replaced the line coming into our house multiple times and isolated our home phone lines from the DSL feed but this hasn’t helped. Verizon tech support can’t seem to get back to me with a detailed plan of what they are going to do next and few representatives return my phone calls.
We’ve also tried at least five router and modems and it hadn’t helped. They recently changed the DSL card(?) in the local office (~7000 ft away) and said they switched us to ADS2.
We’re still seeing internet drops and we’re at our wit’s end.
Any ideas?
Here’s our transceiver stats from our Verzion 7500 DSL modem combo:
Transceiver Revision     A2pB020b3.d20h
Vendor ID Code          4D54
Line Mode                   ADSL_2plus
Data Path                     FAST
Transceiver Information            Down Stream Path       Up Stream Path
DSL Speed (Kbits/Sec)            3358                            863
Margin (dB)                             9.2                               7.0
Line Attenuation (dB)               44.0                             19.4
Transmit Power (dBm)21.0                             12.4
Thanks,

Well, we're getting pretty fed up. Here's the letter that we are sending out for a Verizon Presidential Appeal...
To:
Verizon, St. Petersburg, FL
Verizon Technical Team, Worcester, MA
The Department of Telecommunications and Cable, Consumer Division, Boston, MA
Better Business Bureau
Dear Sirs,
We are writing to lodge a formal complaint about our Verizon DSL service, and the extremely
poor treatment we have received while trying to resolve this (still unresolved) problem. We have had
intermittent internet outages for the last 12 months. This followed five years of normal DSL service at
the same address. Our problems worsened this spring; our internet is out a few minutes to several
hours a day, most days a week. Our next door neighbors have the same problem with their Verizon
DSL service, though they do not use the internet very often so are less affected than we are. We rely
on consistent internet service for our jobs.
We have had 13 technician visits to our home from a total of seven different technicians. On
multiple occasions, we have also been stood up for scheduled technician visits, including days in
which we took off work to be home. Two of these times in which we were stood up were not visits that
Verizon initiated, where we were told we needed to be home. Additionally, we have received
several “auto-calls” informing us that our problem is fixed and our work tickets have been closed. This
is extremely upsetting to us, as our problem has never been fixed as we have explained many times.
Several technicians have spoke confidently (and condescendingly) that their work would fix our
problem; these are generally the technicians we never saw again.
It is clear from our several calls each month to Verizon that persons and departments within
the company do not communicate with one another. Time and time again, we have been shuffled from
person to person, and now believe that no one wants to expend the effort to deal with our problems.
For example, multiple employees have failed to call us back when they said they would. We have
asked several times for a team of creative thinkers (with the authority to act) to brainstorm some sort
of solution and let us know what Verizon was doing to solve our problem. This has not happened. We
have made extensive notes about our service interruptions and our correspondence with Verizon over
the last several months; these are included in this packet. We also have multiple videos across several
months showing that DSL signal is not available.
We believe that a new line needs to be put in from the local hub to our house, a distance of
only a few blocks. (See notes on reverse of page.) At this point, we have no faith that Verizon is
willing to fix this problem and restore service to us. This is truly a shameful way to do business.
If Verizon is unwilling to restore our DSL service to acceptable levels, we would like Verizon to
Notes: This is what Verizon has told us they have done:
1. Isolated our phone line from DSL.
2. Replaced the line from our street to our home.
3. Switched the F2.
4. Put us on an A-DSL2 card at the local hub.
We have tried seven DSL modems and six routers without success. The problem is not within
our house; that is clear. We believe a new F1 line is needed. We were even told by a company
representative on the phone “well, DSL is on copper wire…” - basically from our view, an admission
that copper wire can go bad, and that this may be the cause of our problems. We have asked for a
new F1 line to be installed several times and been brushed off each time.

New computer (windows 7) connection problem with Verizon DSL

I just bought a new computer to replace a dead one. I took the old one away and plugged the new one into the Verizon cable. I have Verizon DSL, no wireless, no network at home, just a computer and a Westell modem.
On the new computer, I have a successful internet connection in that I can reach Google. I can conduct a Google search, but when I click on a search result I cannot reach that site. I CAN successfully send and receive Gmail. I CANNOT connect to Verizon's website, Amazon, Washington Post, Ebay, or most other sites. What happens when I try is a small box comes up in the browser window saying "Connecting to [name of site]" and the in-progress thing goes around and around. This will go on for as long as I let it (more than 1/2 hour), with no timeout or failure message -- just an empty browser window. Results are the same in Explorer and Firefox.
I hooked a borrowed computer into my Verizon line and the internet connection works fine to any site I try (I'm on it now). Verizon techs have also done a line test and it's fine.
I have taken the new computer (running Windows 7) back to the store 3 times. They have hooked it into an Earthlink DSL line there and have shown me they have no difficulty whatsoever going to any of the sites that are not working for me at home. They say the problem MUST be something to do with my Verizon connection.
I've called Verizon tech support 3 times now. They say it's not them, and there's nothing they can do -- but their Remote Assistant software isn't able to connect IN to my machine, just as I can't connect OUT to the Verizon site. I have asked for a more up-to-date modem and was refused.
I was tempted to just upgrade to FIOS but Verizon is being so unhelpful I am ready to bail on Verizon entirely. Before I do, can anyone suggest what might be going on here?

I bought an HP computer at Staples and had the same problem. HP and Verizon could find no problems. Verizon said the would send me a new modem to see if that fixed the problem. The problem was corrected after Verizon sent me a new modem for free.

Need help with QoS config/setup for my home network.

I have a home network that spans two buildings, has and FTP download server, VoIP phones,and several computers among other IP devices. I run a home based business where my clients get access to the company FTP download server (NOT illegal file sharing). the problem is that when they are downloading files my VoIP takes a big hit and gets choppy when speaking to my customers. Below is the layout of the network.
Our Internet access is Verizon 4G, there are no other options available at this time or we would switch. The Verizon 4G MiFi connects to a TP-Link wifi router that then connects to port fa0/5 on the Office 3550PoE switch. There is a trunk between the Office switch to the House 3550PoE switch. The House switch then connects to the Shop 3524XL switch also using a trunk. Please note that EVERYTHING works fine other than the VoIP issue, VoIP makes and receives calls without connections issues.
Auto QoS has been run on the Office switch ports fa0/1 and fa0/2 as well as on the House switch ports fa0/3 and fa0/5. There is NO auto QoS on the 3524XL
What is the best way to give VoIP traffic top priority over FTP and web browsing when going out port fa0/5 on the Office Switch? Over the internal network we are not having any call quality issues between the IP phones, just calls to our SIP provider. Yes, I understand that once calls exit the Office switch to the TP-Link wifi router there will not be any QoS. But, if I can give priority to the packets at the layer 3 Office switch (or wherever you suggest) then at least I will not have to kill a users FTP download while I am on the phone.
Thank You

I can make ANY changes necessary, just need to know what to do.
First, did you notice the output of the command sh mls qos fa0/5 above? Is it working correctly?
Next, Yes I do have version W17 and can install if if needed. The lost of possible commands I listed above was from the conf t - config interface fa0/x level. There is class and policy mapping commands the the config global level along with all these other commands:
aaa                         Authentication, Authorization and Accounting.
access-list                 Add an access list entry
alias                       Create command alias
arp                         Set a static ARP entry
banner                      Define a login banner
boot                        Boot Commands
buffers                     Adjust system buffer pool parameters
cdp                         Global CDP configuration subcommands
cgmp                        Global CGMP configuration commands
class-map                   Configure QoS Class Map
clock                       Configure time-of-day clock
cluster                     Cluster configuration commands
default                     Set a command to its defaults
default-value               Default character-bits values
downward-compatible-config Generate a configuration compatible with older software
enable                      Modify enable password parameters
end                         Exit from configure mode
errdisable                  Error disable
exception                   Exception handling
exit                        Exit from configure mode
file                        Adjust file system parameters
help                        Description of the interactive help system
hostname                    Set system's network name
interface                   Select an interface to configure
ip                          Global IP configuration subcommands
line                        Configure a terminal line
logging                     Modify message logging facilities
mac-address-table           Configure the MAC address table
map-class                   Configure static map class
map-list                    Configure static map list
mvr                         Enable/Disable MVR on the switch
no                          Negate a command or set its defaults
ntp                         Configure NTP
policy-map                  Configure QoS Policy Map
power                       power configuration
priority-list               Build a priority list
privilege                   Command privilege parameters
queue-list                  Build a custom queue list
rmon                        Remote Monitoring
scheduler                   Scheduler parameters
service                     Modify use of network based services
shutdown                    Shutdown system elements
snmp-server                 Modify SNMP parameters
spanning-tree               Spanning Tree Subsystem
stackmaker                  Specify stack name and add its member
tacacs-server               Modify TACACS query parameters
tftp-server                 Provide TFTP service for netload requests
time-range                  Define time range entries
udld                        Configure global UDLD setting
username                    Establish User Name Authentication
vmps                        VMPS settings
vtp                         Configure global VTP state

Verizon DSL Newbie needs Home Networking Help

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