Vivitar SMS 28mm 2.8 MC CloseFocusWideAngle C/FD Lens Profile (built on Canon 60D)
I've created a lens profile today for theVivitar SMS 28mm 2.8 MC CloseFocusWideAngle C/FD on a Canon 60D using the Fotodiox adapter. I sent it to Adobe for posting publicly. If anyone would like to download it in the meantime you can find it here:
Please click this link
I might have messed it up. It's my second time creating a profile and seemed to work fine for me in Lightroom. Let me know if there are any improvements to be made. I used f5.6 and the imager was about 5 feet from the chart.
Similar Messages
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How can i send the chinese sms using java J2EE(web application)
hi,
i have the difficulty on sending chinese sms using J2EE application.i try to input the chinese word to jsp and send the plain text sms. i received the sms with plenty of question mark "?????". i think it is regarding to the conversion of String to some kind of format that supported by mobile phone. below are some code the send the sms to recipient. i need someone help in order to have the solution.
thanks a lot
<%@ page language="java" contentType="text/html; charset=utf-8" pageEncoding="utf-8"%>
<%@ page import="se.sapio.rta.service.MPMService"%>
<%@ page import="java.util.Locale"%>
<%
Locale.setDefault(Locale.UK);
Context ctx;
MPMService mpmservice;
ctx = new InitialContext();
mpmservice = (MPMService) ctx.lookup("BC/Service/RTAMPM");
LSUser user = null;
boolean ok = true;
try {
if (ok) {
String sender = request.getParameter("sender");
String phonenr = request.getParameter("phonenr");
String sendmsg = request.getParameter("sendmsg");
if(bError) {
byte[] bytes = message.getBytes("UTF-8");
message = mobileclientservice.ByteEncode(bytes);
response.sendRedirect("send_sms.jsp?s="+request.getParameter("s")+"&msg="+message+"&phonenr="+request.getParameter("phonenr").replaceAll("\\+","%2B")+"&sender="+request.getParameter("sender")+"&sendmsg="+request.getParameter("sendmsg").replaceAll("\\+","%2B"));
String resp = "";
if(mpmservice.sendPlainTextSMS(sender, phonenr, sendmsg)) {
resp=mpmservice.getLang(user.getLang(), "sms_sent");
} else {
resp=mpmservice.getLang(user.getLang(), "sms_not_sent");
} %>
<jsp:include page="/top.jsp" />
<p class="headline"><%=mpmservice.getLang(user.getLang(), "send_sms_title")%></p>
<form name="operatordetails" id="operatordetails" method="post" action="send_sms.jsp">
<INPUT TYPE=hidden NAME=s VALUE="<%=request.getParameter("s")%>">
<INPUT TYPE=hidden NAME=phonenr VALUE="<%=request.getParameter("phonenr")%>">
<table class="infotable" id="report">
<tr>
<td class="left" colspan="2"><%=resp%></td>
<td class="right"></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="left" colspan="2">
<input class="halfmiddle" name="Back" type="submit" id="Back" value="<%=mpmservice.getLang(user.getLang(), "back")%>" />
</td>
<td class="right"> </td>
</tr>
</table>
</form>
<jsp:include page="/bottom.jsp" />
<% } %>
public boolean sendPlainTextSMS(String sender, String recipient, String sendmsg){
if(recipient.charAt(0) == '+')
recipient = recipient.substring(1);
String senderIdType = "Alpha";
if( (sender.charAt(0) >= '0' && sender.charAt(0) <= '9') || sender.charAt(0) == '+')
senderIdType = "Numeric";
if(sender.charAt(0) == '+')
sender = sender.substring(1);
for(int i=0; i < sender.length(); i++)
if(!(sender.charAt(i) >= '0' && sender.charAt(i) <= '9'))
senderIdType = "Alpha";
log.warn("sending sms to: "+recipient + " sendtype: " + senderIdType + " msg: "+ sendmsg);
log.warn("Encoded sms:"+Encode(sendmsg));
try{
String postData = "XMLDATA=" + URLEncoder.encode("<?xml version=\"1.0\" encoding=\"ISO-8859-1\" ?>\r\n" +
"<NotificationRequest Version=\"3.4\">\r\n" +
" <NotificationHeader>\r\n" +
" <PartnerName>" + SMS_PARTNER_NAME + "</PartnerName>\r\n" +
" <PartnerPassword>" + SMS_PARTNER_PASSWORD + "</PartnerPassword>\r\n" +
" <SubscriptionName>XML</SubscriptionName>\r\n" +
" </NotificationHeader>\r\n" +
" <NotificationList BatchID=\"1\">\r\n" +
" <Notification SequenceNumber=\"0\" MessageType=\"SMS\">\r\n" +
" <Message>" + Encode(sendmsg) + "</Message>\r\n" +
" <Profile>" + SMS_PARTNER_PROFILE + "</Profile>\r\n" +
" <SenderID Type=\"" + senderIdType + "\">" + sender + "</SenderID>\r\n" +
" <Subscriber>\r\n" +
" <SubscriberNumber>" + recipient + "</SubscriberNumber>\r\n" +
" </Subscriber>\r\n" +
" </Notification>\r\n" +
" </NotificationList>\r\n" +
"</NotificationRequest>","ISO-8859-1");
appreciate for anyone provide the solution.
thanks a lotHi,
I want to send sms from web application to mobile phones at the time of registration. Its verymuch greatful to me, if you let me know, how to send from jsp to mobile. because from your post, i got, you already know about sending sms from jsp to mobile.
please let me know, how to send sms
[email protected]
Thanks in advance for your kind help -
OpenMarket sms api gives "Connection timed out: connect"
Hello All,
I am new to web applications with sms services.
I am trying to send sms from my java application to mobile device. But I am getting below error.
Aug 25, 2010 10:55:58 AM com.eha.sms.ema.EMACMMessageSendProxy init
INFO: Move to send the receiver initialization.
Destination address = +**********
Source addres = +*****
Sending message to Simplewire...
REQUEST XML ==
<?xml version="1.0" ?>
<request version="3.0" protocol="wmp" type="submit">
<user agent="Java/SMS/2.9.16"/>
<account id="******************" password="***************"/>
<option type="production"/>
<source ton="0" address="+*****"/>
<destination ton="0" address="+**********"/>
<message udhi="false" text="Hello World!"/>
</request>
protocol: http
remote host: ******Some site given to us by open market people that opens on browser**********
remote port: 8080
remote file: /wmp
{main} [10:55:58.722] Conn: added module com.simplewire.http.RetryModule
{main} [10:55:58.725] Conn: added module com.simplewire.http.AuthorizationModule
{main} [10:55:58.726] Conn: added module com.simplewire.http.DefaultModule
{main} [10:55:58.747] Conn: Creating Socket: smsc-01.openmarket.com:8080
{main} [10:56:19.759] Conn: java.net.ConnectException: Connection timed out: connect
at java.net.PlainSocketImpl.socketConnect(Native Method)
at java.net.PlainSocketImpl.doConnect(Unknown Source)
at java.net.PlainSocketImpl.connectToAddress(Unknown Source)
at java.net.PlainSocketImpl.connect(Unknown Source)
at java.net.SocksSocketImpl.connect(Unknown Source)
at java.net.Socket.connect(Unknown Source)
at java.net.Socket.connect(Unknown Source)
at java.net.Socket.<init>(Unknown Source)
at java.net.Socket.<init>(Unknown Source)
at com.simplewire.http.HTTPConnection$_A.run(Unknown Source)
Message was not sent!
Error Code: 106
Error Description: A connection could not be established with the Simplewire network. Connection timed out: connect
Error Resolution:
The code I am using is as below.
private void config()
Properties properties = new Properties();
InputStream smscmReceiver = EMACMMessageSendProxy.class.getClassLoader().getResourceAsStream("sms.properties");
try
properties.load(smscmReceiver);
System.out.println(properties.getProperty("SMS.SubscriberID").trim());
System.out.println(properties.getProperty("SMS.Password").trim());
System.out.println(properties.getProperty("SMS.DestinationAddress").trim());
System.out.println(properties.getProperty("SMS.SourceAddress").trim());
SMS sms = new SMS();
// subscriber settings
sms.setRemoteHost(" ******Some site given to us by open market people that opens on browser**********");
sms.setDebugMode(true);
sms.setRemotePort(8080);
sms.setSubscriberID(properties.getProperty("SMS.SubscriberID").trim());
sms.setSubscriberPassword(properties.getProperty("SMS.Password").trim());
// Message Settings
sms.setDestinationAddr(properties.getProperty("SMS.DestinationAddress").trim()); // recipient of message
sms.setSourceAddr(properties.getProperty("SMS.SourceAddress").trim()); // originator of message
sms.setMsgText("Hello World!");
System.out.println("Sending message to Simplewire...");
// submit message and check results
if (sms.submit())
System.out.println("Message was sent!");
System.out.println("Ticket ID: " + sms.getMsgTicketID());
else
System.out.println("Message was not sent!");
System.out.println("Error Code: " + sms.getErrorCode());
System.out.println("Error Description: " + sms.getErrorDesc());
System.out.println("Error Resolution: " + sms.getErrorResolution() + "\n");
} catch (IOException e)
log.error("Load profile sms.properties failed to send Move.", e);
I am using windows 7 and the required info from the java code is picked up from a property file.
destination address is a "+" sign followed by cell number of client in US and I am in diff country.
source code I am using is "+" sign followed by a short code given by client.
I am also not aware what short codes are for.
I am also not sure whether I am passing correct parameters.
I just followed a demo code from the api's sample file. (open market api......swsms-2.9.16 is the jar used.).
would like to know If destination address can be my cell number.
The open market people have configured the demo short code for our SMS messaging account.
This feature will allow us to test our platform to send and receive SMS messages
while we are waiting for our dedicated short code.
Mobile Originated messages MUST start with our assigned keyword(s) to be routed to you.
We have a few keywords but don't know how to use them.
Please help!
Thanks in advance.
Edited by: Vish_1x1 on Aug 24, 2010 11:06 PMI had a same problem.
It was definately URL and SOAP Action Problem.
Also, I didnt configure the Proxy too.
Please dont waste more time in looking inot other configs.
Just give a careful look at Target URL and SOAP Action, again and again.
Sweta , Please make this question Answerd , it will be useful for other users.
And Bahvesh Deserves good points..
Thanks ,
Deo. -
Send SMS from OBIEE 11g - Argent
Can i send SMS from OBIEE ?
Yes, you can using delivery profile as Phone. Configure your delivery profile accordingly.
refer iBot Phone Delivery -
E90 Why no Scheduled SMS on it?
Scheduled SMS has been in every iteration of the Communicator it is not present in the current SW evaluated and not found in the features list.
One prospective is: Why remove a feature at all?
If a feature has been incorporated once, it should be in all future models, simply because some people (maybe even just a few, but still) will have drawn benefit of the function and use is frequently, and will really miss it!
So, keep all features, and just keep putting new ones in, and don't remove any - including the fax
Please Nokia add it back.
Abdullah Ibn Hamad Al-Marri AKA Awesome
Arab Portal
Phones: Waiting for E9x with Scheduled SMS on it, and 9300i features..I thank you for the useful reply
It's very easy to add this feature to E90, since it's a business oriented phone, and Scheduled SMS on it is a must IMHO beside timed profile.
Abdullah Ibn Hamad Al-Marri AKA Awesome
Arab Portal
Phones: Waiting for E9x with Scheduled SMS on it, and 9300i features.. -
I never know which forum to post these things, so I'll start with the photographers.
<br />
<br />These three shots are as follows: (1) the camera raw version, (2) where I moved the sliders from the ends to approximately the beginning/end of the major portion of the histogram, and (3) using the threshold control to find the white and black points in the main part of the picture.
<br />
<br />Then, in the two adjusted versions, I lightened the image with the curves control.
<br />
<br />In both these cases, I used the grey dropper to touch the same spot on one of the rocks, to get the apparent neutral point.
<br />
<br />It seems to me that the threshold method to find the white and black points is preferred, based on the overall color and appearance of the finished adjustment.
<br />
<br />But, I've found on some images where the histogram has missing black and missing white, if I adjust the sliders to these two ends, I get pretty much the same outcome, as far as the contrast, color, and grey point.
<br />
<br />Could I have some advice on the preferred method to use in handling my image adjustments? Doing it the threshold method takes more time, and sometimes it's difficult to find the white and black points, or even the grey point.
<br />
<br />Thanks.
<br />
<br />Al
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.pixentral.com/show.php?picture=1SlEeG9kfwzD34gVOEcCbg7Ktp83p3" /></a>
<img alt="Picture hosted by Pixentral" src="http://www.pixentral.com/hosted/1SlEeG9kfwzD34gVOEcCbg7Ktp83p3_thumb.jpg" border="0" />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.pixentral.com/show.php?picture=1tIEs4eAyKz4sxamyVaYRlKjTIIfKj" /></a>
<img alt="Picture hosted by Pixentral" src="http://www.pixentral.com/hosted/1tIEs4eAyKz4sxamyVaYRlKjTIIfKj_thumb.jpg" border="0" />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.pixentral.com/show.php?picture=17K3ewFXsGo4K2uH5TGfO06CdVayyn1" /></a>
<img alt="Picture hosted by Pixentral" src="http://www.pixentral.com/hosted/17K3ewFXsGo4K2uH5TGfO06CdVayyn1_thumb.jpg" border="0" />Yes the image was purposely underexposed. What I was trying to accomplish was to speed up the shutter speed to remove the slight blurring and compensate by pulling data from the shadows. Even though the lens has an image stabilizer the amount of light wasn't enough for a proper sharp shot.
this image is before touch up
These two images are F/5.6, 1/20, ISO 800
After touch up
Better lit scene but shows slight motion blur
This last image is F/5.6, 1/4, ISO 800
I believe that I will have to wait next year and hope I have a faster lens by then. I just don't think the 28mm-135mm f/3.5-5.6 lens is fast enough. I was trying this without a tripod to get in tighter.
Also I was taking these shots without the flash to get the drama of the tree lights.
What I would have prefer is a shutter speed of 1/125 or better as it helps with my hands shaking I believe the slowest should be 1/60
And the lower the ISO the better for noise.
These preferences are what I am used to with my Canon G3 that does not have IS.
I am getting so off track here, lol. But anyways, here are the pictures. -
Accuracy of Lens Correction in LR3 or 4
Hi! I recently bought my Fuji X10 und downloaded LR4 (beta). Im quite new to LR & RAW, but learning fast.
Since there is no LCP for the X10 available yet, I'm doing lens correction manually. But the manual correction is quite limited, especially for the 28mm wide angle distortion of the X10.
My efforts result in almost perfect horizontal & vertical lines in the center, but especially the horizontal lines spread towards the edge.
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/4978642/Bildschirmfoto%202012-01-21%20um%2014.37.01.png
Now I would like to know, if a later available LCP would correct this further and straighten all lines? Hoping not to need Photoshop to do the job.
THX for any comments.
Oliver
If you don't have a Dropbox Account, get one free here: http://db.tt/y1XYyIgManual lens correction model is limited and only account for lower order distortion terms. The distortion used in the LCP is more powerful and can account for higher order distortion terms. You can build your own custom lens profiles using the Adobe Lens Profile Creator http://labs.adobe.com/downloads/lensprofile_creator.html. Or see if others have built and shared the same lens profile using the Adobe Lens Profile Downloader.
-Simon -
I've had a 24" consumer Samsung monitor for the past few years, and for the most part I'm happy with it, but since getting a Canon DSLR and Lightroom, I've been thinking about getting another that will show me the full color gamut of the camera. I was almost decided on the Asus PB278Q, which is supposed to show the full sRGB gamut but only 78% AdobeRGB. I don't know much about gamuts, but I had read a while ago that it was better to set the camera to Adobe RGB since it provides a larger color gamut and gives better prints, so I started doing that.
So I'm thinking that if I'm going to spend so much money on a professional monitor, I'd rather step it up a little and get one that allows me to see the full Adobe RGB gamut, for which this Asus model wouldn't work. One that does have AdobeRGB is the ASUS PA246Q, but the review on Anandtech says the black levels are not that great, so I'm looking at other monitors that provide AdobeRGB and good black levels. So I read about the NEC PA271W, but besides being very expensive I also read that its anti-glare coating makes highlights look grainy, so I wouldn't get that.
While I'm not a professional photographer yet, I'm advancing in that area and some day soon I would like to become one, so I would like to invest in a decent monitor that will show me the full color gamut. However I would like to ask from more experienced photographers, is the difference between sRGB and AdobeRGB that big a deal? I mean, if I put my camera on a tripod and take the same exact picture, one in sRGB and the other in AdobeRGB, with a monitor that displays 100% AdobeRGB, would I be able to tell the difference? I know I can't tell the difference in my current monitor, but it's a low end consumer monitor, even though the photos look beautiful. I'm just wondering if I buy the Asus PB278Q, which is full sRGB and only 78% of AdobeRGB, will I really tell the difference with a 100% AdobeRGB monitor.
So basically I would like to know, for professional photographers, how important it is to have a 100% AdobeRGB monitor?Thanks for your reply. I'm 41 and I don't have cataracts, so that's not an issue. Here's what I'm trying to get at. I'm a wedding videographer, and I constantly see photographers carrying around Canon 5D Mark IIs and IIIs with lens sets that are more expensive than the camera itself all together. I saw the same thing recently when I went to a local outdoor tourist attraction and it was 70 degrees and perfectly sunny, so there were about 20 different portrait photographers, each with their clients going around this place trying to find the best location for their shoot. All of them also had 5D Mark IIs and IIIs with very expensive lenses and so on.
I have a Canon 60D with the 18-200mm kit lens, as well as two other lenses, a 28mm and a 50mm, with a circular polarizer for those two, and a Speedlite 430EXII flash. Recently I spent a few hours with a friend and her family doing their portraits, and many of them turning out amazing, and even better once I tweaked them in Lightroom. This is not only on my 24" monitor, but also when displayed on a 46" TV set at full screen.
What I gather from this is that you don't need the most expensive equipment to achieve something great if you know how to use your equipment well, as long as your equipment meets the standards of what you're trying to do. I know that my photos wouldn't have turned out so great with a P&S, even if I would have shot them exactly from the same position.
Now, what I'm trying to ask is, does this reasoning apply to the monitor as well? I'm almost decided on the Asus PB278Q, even though the PA246Q has full Adobe RGB coverage, but it's 24" and I can really use all that extra space the 27" provides. -
Should I bother with the Adobe Lens Profile Creator?
I am concentrating mostly on architectural photography these days and I need a pep talk about the "Adobe Lens Profile Creator". The process seems laborious and error prone - in other words it could end up being a waste of time and money (for the printing of the calibration charts). Has anyone used it to good effect? And with what lenses?
I do the bulk of my work with the 24mm PC-E Nikkor f/3.5 lens and I also use two older lenses - the 28mm PC Nikkor f/3.5 and (my favorite) the 15mm Nikkor f/3.5. All three lenses suffer from a small amount of barrel distortion and chromatic aberration so some correction is usually needed.
I have two specific reservations about the lens profiling process -
1. It came out with Photoshop CS5. Since then the manual controls have increased in sophistication. Can't I get pretty much the same result using the manual adjustments?
2. In my drop-down menu in Adobe Camera Raw CC there are eighty-one lenses listed - but not the three I am using! This is crazy and reflects badly on the people who designed the whole process. Who cares about perspective correction in a 600mm lens?
Anyway, I would appreciate a reply from anyone who has gone through the profiling process. Thanks.
Kevin from Cambridge, MassachusettsGerman Jack ha scritto:
create an jpg/tif – profile
create a copy from the lcp
rename this copy with “ – RAW”
open this lcp with an editor
search any “False” and rename it to “True”
save it and you have a perfect raw - lensprofile
Ok, but what does it mean rename and correct the content of the lcp file?
It remains a profile created from jpg source, CameraRaw could consider it like a raw lens profile but it has no more value than a jpg profile, I believe...
Anyway, for whatelse it could be useful your suggestion to modify lcp file?
Thank you for your attention -
Lens profile creator - Best Practises
Forgive me for my ignorance but I am completely new to Lens Profile Creator (and a novice photographer to boot ) and I must confess that I have not read the documentation in great depth, but I am a little confused.
I am a Lightroom 3 user and no lens profiles are availble in LR3 for two of my lenses. So, I took the plunge and have attempted to create the required profiles. The lenses in question are the AF-S Nikkor 16-85mm 1:3.5-5.6G ED and the Sigma 105mm 1:2.8D DG Macro. My camera is a Nikon D300.
The confusion is that documentation is not clear on how many combinations of aperture and focal length (for zoom lenses) is required (or recommended) in a single lens profile. For example, for my Sigma 105 should I shoot nine images at each available aperture (from f2.8 through f32 (i.e. a minimum of 72 images!) or is 9 images at a single aperture enough? If a single aperture is sufficient what should that aperture be?
Whilst I find the procedures to capture the required images straight forward ( if a little tedious) if I have to shoot nine images at each aperture for a zoom lens at minimum, maximum and the mid point of the zoom range, then the number of required images becomes enormousI have developed five profiles so far and I can help you somewhat. You may also wish to hear from Adobe. The hardest profile that I developed was for my point and shoot, the Nikon Coolpix P6000, which shoots raw images, of .NRW Type, and my profile was for raw images, as are all of the profiles that I have done. I think the lens resolution is very low for that Coolpix camera compared to my other excellent fast Nikons, and the coolpix caused me much problems in my profiles, but I found ways around some of the issues, and had to use less images in some of my sets and I had to use the advanced tab to use less parameters in some cases, and that helped.
You want to vary at least the aperture in your sets. Sets are considered to be images with at least one thing common - such as aperture. So, you could have eight sets of nine images = 72 images, as you said, for your Sigma, if you use each aperture. However, you may also want to vary the distance from the target. Thus if you used two distances for each aperture, 72 x 2 = 144 images.
For your zoom; yes, I did shoot sets at each zoom focal length setting when I recently profiled my Nikon 17-35mm f2.8 lens. I had twenty sets of images with nine images in each set. That equals 180 images for that one lens. And I did not shoot different distances for each focal length. If I had done that, I could have had 360 images of course. I shot images for that lens at f2.8, f8, f11, and f22, and at zoom focal length settings for each aperture, of 17mm, 20mm, 24mm, 28mm, and 35mm.
You can choose to use the same chart or different charts; I used 3 charts for my 17-35 images, size 29x41, 36 points, and I also used chart with huge squares, size 9x13, 108 points, and a third chart of size 27x45, 54 points. *Be sure* to measure the needed square size for each set and change the chart size per what you used in that set and the square size, entered on the right side.
For my other profiles that I have done, I have used a minimum of twelve sets of nine images each, up to twenty sets of nine images each. I always shot mine at the minimum aperture, and at f8, and f11(per Eric's recommendation to use f11), and also at either f16 or f22, whichever I felt I used the most for that lens(nine sets each). I also used the minimum aperture for a given zoom fully zoomed out(my 24-120 at 120 yields f5.6) and zoomed in(the 24-120 at 24mm is at f3.5). And I used at least four focal lengths for my zooms(and I used different distances also for the point and shoot P6000 profile).
Hope this helps you.
Debra -
Lens profile for Canon 28/1.8 - already installed in LR4?
Hmm, the explanation of lens profiles and how to add them is a little confusing.
When I look here in Adobe's own list of supported lenses, my new "Canon EF 28mm f/2.8 IS USM" is listed there:
http://helpx.adobe.com/x-productkb/multi/lens-profile-support-lightroom-4.html
Does that mean that profile should already be installed in LR 4? (I am running 4.4)
The profile is not showing up in Lightroom for me. (I am shooting JPEG.)
I downloaded the lens profile downloader, and found a profile for this lens, but is that the official Adobe profile for the lens? I installed it but it still doesn't work for me because it is for RAW only.
Sorry for the newbie question.
thanks in advance,
Paul D.JPG lens profiles are distinct from RAW lens profiles because cameras can fix things with the camera-produced JPGs that the lens profiles also fix and you can get double-corrections by using a raw lens profile with a jpg, but it depends on the capabilities and settings of the particular camera.
If you are sure your camera isn’t correcting geometric and vignetting issues with your JPGs, then you can hack the lens profile you downloaded to use it with JPGs, by editing the .lcp file with a text editor and change the flag indicating it is for raw files from True to False. I forget what this flag is called, exactly, but it is obvious and near the top of the files.
On Windows, the lens profiles are downloaded to:
C:\Users\--username--\AppData\Roaming\Adobe\CameraRaw\LensProfiles\
AppData is a hidden or system folder so you’ll need to unhide such folders in the folder options in Explorer or just type in the path an hit Enter in the address area of Explorer. -
Hi all
Well after reading through this forum it seems there is a lot of information about how many images should be shot etc. so I thought I would share my setup as I seem to be embarking on a bit of a mission. I need to be really accurate, as the images will be used in photogrammetry, so I am being as scientific as I can be. The camera is a Canon 1ds Mark II, and I have these lenses:
28mm
50mm
85mm
24-105mm
24-85mm
70-200mm
8mm fisheye
I have a small studio of approx 16ft in length.
Primes:
close-up focus distance: 9 x chart positions, 1 stop aperture increments
mid focus distance: 9 x chart positions, 1 stop aperture increments
far focus distance: 9 x chart positions, 1 stop aperture increments
Zooms:
close-up focus distance, widest zoom: 9 x chart positions, 1 stop aperture increments
close-up focus distance, mid zoom: 9 x chart positions, 1 stop aperture increments
close-up focus distance, tele zoom: 9 x chart positions, 1 stop aperture increments
mid focus distance, widest zoom: 9 x chart positions, 1 stop aperture increments
mid focus distance, mid zoom: 9 x chart positions, 1 stop aperture increments
mid focus distance, tele zoom: 9 x chart positions, 1 stop aperture increments
far focus distance, widest zoom: 9 x chart positions, 1 stop aperture increments
far focus distance, mid zoom: 9 x chart positions, 1 stop aperture increments
far focus distance, tele zoom: 9 x chart positions, 1 stop aperture increments
Now, not only do I have my work cut out for me, but I doubt I have the space needed. What I would like to know is are all the focus distances really needed? I guess giving how exact we need our profiles to be it is in fact a requirement? Also I thing getting smaller grids will be needed for some of the telephoto and close-up shots seeing as I dont have a huge amount of room?
Any thoughts will be appreciated.
ElliotHi Elliot, the first potential big timesaver is to check if the Adobe-supplied profiles work well on your system. For example, with the public Camera Raw 6.2 Release Candidate and Lightroom 3.2 Release Candidate (posted last night), Adobe has Canon lens profiles for all 50 mm lenses except the f/2.5 compact macro, both 85 mm lenses, the 24-105 zoom, and all 70-200 lenses. If these do work well for you, then that takes care of 4 of your 7 listed lenses, including two zooms (which are more time consuming to profile).
Regarding focus distance: yes, it does matter, but only if you shoot in those conditions. For example, if you never use your 28 mm at minimum focus distance, then it's not worth profiling it at that distance. Consider doing just 2, or maybe even just 1 focus distance.
When we build profiles internally at Adobe for broad distribution, we really can't assume how a lens will be used (i.e., we can't go around saying, "don't use this lens at minimum focus distance ... !"), so we need to cover the bases and build thorough profiles that will work well under a broad range of field & studio conditions. But for profiles that you're building for your own use, this is not necessarily the case. -
Legacy Canon FD 200mm f2.8 with 2x converter on Panasonic G1 ?
I am using the above combination for bird photos. I am hoping to develop a lens profile that will reduce the chromatic aberration and purple fringing I have experienced when wide open. Has anyone already profiled this lens, even if on a different body ?
I only have access to LR3 so cannot search the Adobe database of submitted profiles.
How likely is it that I will see an improvement by profiling the lens?
Has anyone produced a spreadsheet or similar to help select the optimum chart ?
I also connect the Panasonic G1 to a Leica Televid scope for some photos. Again has anyone done any profiling of scopes ?1. 50 mm F/1.4 IS - which would be Sharp wide open.
I would dare to say that I'm not so interested so much in IS - I will trade the IS for having good-to-very-good results (corner sharpness, not-so-much vignetting) at F/1.4
2. Better (U)WA at f/2.8 - better (lesser) distortions, vignetting aso. on a 16-35 f/2.8 - I'm not interested so much in having reach on tele side - In fact I'm doing my work now with Tokina 16-28mm f/2.8 FX exactly because it has lesser distortions on the wide end.
3. I think that's possible to have a short zoom with an aperture lower than f/2.8. I think that this will be a killer. Having for example something like 40-60 at f/2 will be quite neat. However I'm reserved if this thing would be achievable. Perhaps is better to mention that I would carry a little weight in plus for this (because most probably this will be little bigger and heavier lens than a 24-70).
just my 2c & HTH
my 2c & HTH,
John Th. -
Importing with canon 5d markii
Being new to mac and considering this camera, can anyone comment on whether or not the importing is user friendly
It just occurred to me, after taping over the contacts, that I should also try something else: zoom lenses usually change their aperture while zooming from wide to distant (e.g; from, say, f3.5 down to f5.6) if set to their maximum, wide-open, aperture. So perhaps setting the lens' maximum aperture to be a bit less than its max at its distant setting (..e.g; setting it to, say, f6.3 or similar..) might prevent the aperture changing during a zoom. But then again, maybe it wouldn't ..I'll try it today and see if that makes any difference. Anyway, tape-over-the-contacts certainly fixes the problem.
(..The 5D MkII changes its ASA/ISO 'sensitivity' as it deems necessary before or during video shooting, so maybe having the aperture iris electrically connected, allowing the camera to adjust the iris during a zoom (..it balances ISO with aperture..) will always give jerky video.. I'll find out later today..)
That lens was a..
Tamron 28mm-300mm ..similar to, but much smaller and lighter than..!
Canon's own 28mm-300mm. It's not so eye-searingly sharp as Canon's, and is 'softer' and less contrasty, and has more 'flare' than Canon's superb 28mm-300mm ..but the differences aren't so apparent in a movie as they are in still shots ..which you might stare at for several minutes, so discovering the lens' shortcomings.
I'll post a bit of a beach zoom later; you'll see how a great shot was spoiled by having the movie jerk every few seconds when the camera made adjustments to the lens. Meanwhile, I've just had my (PAL, 25fps) movie camera adjusted so that it shoots 30fps too ..so that I can now mix'n'match video shot with that 5D along with HDV video material (..and smoother zooms!) shot with a camcorder. The camcorder's zoom lens is easier to control (..able to provide very slow, 'ease-in' and 'ease-out' zooms..) but the 5D allows any type of Canon-fit SLR lens (..from super-wide to super-long..) to be used for shooting video. -
1) I'm not receiving facebook notifications. I have the "Facebook for HTC Sense" added in the managed accounts area in my settings. Also, in the actual Facebook app, I have the Notifications area checked as Active, and all the notification settings below that (messages,friend requests, etc.) are all checked. However, I'm still not receiving any notifications to my phone if someone writes on my wall or comments on my status. What am I missing?
2) When I upload a picture to Facebook after taking it with the phone, I'm not finding any place for me to tag people within the pic. Am I missing something there as well?
I've just switched to this from BB Storm, and so far I love how much fast everything runs, just trying to work out the little kinks along the way. Thanks for any help!
And I know it's not going to change, but I'd also like to voice how disappointed I am that I cannot get rid of any of these preloaded apps that I will NEVER use! At least I should have the option to hide them like I could in BB Storm...Try downloading the app, 'f-plus - facebook tool', also known as blue notification (the icon is a blue box with an F and a '+' sign in it). Its like $0.79 but worth it ...it works much like the notifications on the blackberry. You receive an actual notification from Facebook, not thru email or SMS and you not only receive notifications from your profile/pics, but also notifcations from comments you made on other peoples profile and it refreshes as often as every 15 minutes. You cannot access your profile from this app, its more like an add on to the existing FB app, whether its Sense, Touch or a shortcut to the mobile site.
Several preferences as well, such as how often to check for updates, change the light color notification, which FB to open when checking a notfication (full site, mobile site, touch site)
Been using it for a couple of days and its working nicely for me ...especially since the standard is receiving notifications thru SMS or email and you only receive notifications when its related to your profile.
Try it out!
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