What's the best way subtitle a film I got on DVD?

I was hired to subtitle several films. They were given to me on DVDs, and I am supposed to deliver on DVD. Originally I was going to use mpeg streamclip to make the files into a QT file, and the subtitle them in FCP.
I have been reading that you can subtitle in DVD Studio Pro, though. Would that be better? How would I do it.
Also, if anyone has a favorite font size/style to use for subtitling, please let me know. ANy other hints about creating appealing, easy to read titles would be appreciated.

Mr. RedTruck has some very good suggestions.
I'll try to add a bit to that:
Creating subtitles is about timing/shortening/translation. You'll be fighting with that so much that you will not have time to even think about the looks or TV output. The only thing that is important during 99% of the work is concentrate on words and readability. What you are doing is creating metadata, that will be used later on for final outut (in whatever form).
As for the looks, during the translation process you only set the linebreak and perhaps add italic words.
So before you begin you pick a 'look'(font/size/color)
Next you need to know how much you can fit on a line, so you know your limitations in length/when to split text into two titles.
Do not underestimate the struggle when you have to fit a written translation into the time it's spoken.
A title comes on the moment somebody speaks, and goes off when he shuts up.
Basic rule of thumb, when the text is easy to understand, you have to be able to read it OUT LOUD in that duration. That almost always means shortening the text, while maintaining the original content as good as possible.
This is what makes the difference. If you do it right, people will not notice the subtitles, and think they can understand the language by themselves.
If you are going out of sync or put in too much text to read in the short time the titles are on, or break up titles on non-logical places, viewers will find it a bad translation (even if it is perfect) and will be annoyed.
If you have more than a few titles to do, forget about DVD SP.
You need to be able to type your translation and listen to the movie at the same time.
Forget about FCP for the same reason. It's just not fast enough.
There is dedicated software to do this, one application written by me:
http://www.videotoolshed.com/?page=products&pID=12
No, it is not cheap, and yes, it will take you some time to master it.
But it has all the options to create all kind of subtitles, and more important, once you are getting the hang of it, you will be at least 5 times more productive than using free tools (those are around as well).
Last but not least, it comes with very good support
You were talking about 'several films'.
I don't know how long they are, and how much of it must be subtitled, but some statistics:
A one hour movie has some 600 subtitles. That takes a trained professioal subtitler way more than a day to create just the subtitle file (containing text with timing info). So i hope you know what you're in for.
Again, getting from there to the final output is nothing compared to the effort to create the translation/timing.
hth
Bouke
**I may receive some form of compensation, financial or otherwise, from my recommendation or link.**

Similar Messages

  • I finally was successful in burning a CD of a slideshow I created in iPhoto, however, it is blurry. What is the best way to burn to a CD or DVD for clarity. Also, I realize if burned in iPhoto it will only be playable in iPhoto. Help! This is needed soon!

    I finally was successful in burning a CD of a slideshow I created in iPhoto, however, it is blurry. What is the best way to burn to a CD or DVD for clarity. Also, I realize if burned in iPhoto it will only be playable in iPhoto. Help! This is needed soon for a wedding reception!

    What version of iPhoto are you using?  How do you plan to view the slideshow at the wedding reception, on a TV screen?  If so then you will need to send the slideshow to iDVD and burn a disk from there.
    If you're in iPhoto 11 and the slideshow was created in the slideshow mode and not from an album, then go to the Share menu and select iDVD.  That will create a QT movie of the slideshow and import it into iDVD.
    In iDVD select your theme and setup the menu as you'd like.  If you want the movie to begin plahying immediately when the disk is inserted into the DVD player go into the Gallery mode and drag the movie into the Autostart  bin at the left.
    Click to view full size
    If you want the movie to loop continuously go to the Advanced menu and select Loop.
    Click to view full size
    When you're finished setting upb the iDVD project save it as a disk image via the File ➙ Save as Disk Image menu option. This will allow you to check it with DVD Player before tryingto burn to disk.  Mount the disk imnage by double clicking on it and launch DVD Player and play.  If the movie plays as you want and everything is good you can  burn to disk with Disk Utility at the slowest speed available to assure the best burn quality.  Always use top quality media:  Verbatium, Maxell or Taiyo Yuden DVD-R are the most recommended in these forums.
    OT

  • What is the best way to put a movie on a DVD?

    I want to put my movie on a DVD and show it on the TV. What is the best way to do this?

    Yes, you can put more than one movie on a DVD, as long as the total length of both together is not over 2hrs for single-layer DVDs.
    I know what you mean about it taking so long for the burning....my DVDs are usually just close to 2hrs, so taking 12-14hrs to burn is not unusual for me. I just do it overnight, and it is finished in the morning. I 'save to disc image' first, and then do the burning from Disk Utility.
    Trust me, I've tried everything I can think of to be able to.
    I am surprised that you cannot get your movies exported back to DV tapes with your camcorder. I looked up its specs, and it shows it has Firewire port, so you should be able to export. I would pursue this further....
    Have you tried saving your movies as QuickTime Full-Quality and then importing that into a new iMovie and exporting that? You will need to have more free space to copy the movie, but once you have made the QT movie, you can delete the original one, and you can delete the QT one after the export. Also, it may take a LOOOONNNGGG time for the compression/process necessary to create the QT movie, and somewhat long for the import into iMovie, but I have found that iMovies that would not export to my camcorder in their original form exported easily after I made the QT one.

  • What is the best way to burn full hd movie to dvd

    Hi i need to find the best way to burn full hd movie from panasonic camcorder to dvd thanks

    Hi
    There is NON !
    as DVD is as Standard (Whatever program used) - only Interlaced SD-Video Quality
    So if You need better then
    • Use Blu-Ray (Roxio Toast™ + BD-Burner and Disks)
    • or Save out to an USB-Memory stick and play this
    What's worse is that iMovie'08 or 09 or 11 - Can not deliver even DVD-Standard but degrades the quality by discarding every second line in the picture. This happens when going from Eventy's to Project's - Ther is no way around this but to use another program that can deliver as
    • iMovie up to HD6 - or -
    • FinalCut any version
    If iMovie 08-11 are only option then do not
    • Share to iDVD - as this also degrades the final DVD - but -
    • Share to Media Browser - and as MEDIUM (or ev. as Large) - NOT HD or other resolution as this too degrades the final DVD due to BAD downscaling in iDVD program.
    My notes on DVD quality:
    DVD quality 
    1. iDVD 08, 09 & 11 has three levels of qualities. (version 7.0.1, 7,0.4 & 7.1.1) and iDVD 6 has the two last ones
    • Professional Quality
    (movies + menus up to 120 min.) - BEST (but not always for short movies e.g. up to 45 minutes in total)
    • Best Performances
    (movies + menus less than 60 min.) - High quality on final DVD (Can be best for short movies)
    • High Quality (in iDVD08 or 09) / Best Quality (in iDVD6)
    (movies + menus up to 120 min.) - slightly lower quality than above
    Menu can take 15 minutes or even more - I use a very simple one with no audio or animation like ”Brushed Metal” in old Themes.
    About double on DL DVDs.
    2. Video from
    • FCE/P - Export out as full quality QuickTime.mov (not self-containing, no conversion)
    • iMovie x-6 - Don't use ”Share/Export to iDVD” = destructive even to movie project and especially so
    when the movie includes photos and the Ken Burns effect NOT is used. Instead just drop or import the iMovie movie project icon (with a Star on it) into iDVD theme window.
    • iMovie’08 or 09 or 11 are not meant to go to iDVD. Go via Media Browser or rather use iMovie HD 6 from start.
    3. I use Roxio Toast™ to make an as slow burn as possibly e.g. x4 or x1 (in iDVD’08 or 09  this can also be set)
    This can also be done with Apple’s Disk Utilities application when burning from a DiskImage.
    4. There has to be about or more than 25Gb free space on internal (start-up) hard disk. iDVD can't
    use an external one as scratch disk (if it is not start-up disc). For SD-Video - if HD-material is used I guess that 4 to 5 times more would do.
    5. I use Verbatim ( also recommended by many - Taiyo Yuden DVDs - I can’t get hold of it to test )
    6. I use DVD-R (no +R or +/-RW) - DVD-R play’s on more and older DVD-Players
    7. Keep NTSC to NTSC - or - PAL to PAL when going from iMovie to iDVD
    (I use JES_Deinterlacer to keep frame per sec. same from editing to the Video-DVD result.)
    8. Don’t burn more than three DVDs at a time - but let the laser cool off for a while before next batch.
    iDVD quality also depends on.
    • DVD is a standard in it self. It is Standard Definition Quality = Same as on old CRT-TV sets and can not
    deliver anything better that this.
    HD-DVD was a short-lived standard and it was only a few Toshiba DVD-players that could playback.
    These DVDs could be made in DVD-Studio Pro. But they don’t playback on any other standard DVD-Player.
    Blu-Ray / BD can be coded onto DVDs but limited in time to - about 20-30 minutes and then need
    _ Roxio Toast™ 10 Pro incl. BD-component
    _ BD disks and burner if full length movies are to be stored
    _ BD-Player or PlayStation3 - to be able to playback
    The BD-encoded DVDs can be play-backed IF Mac also have Roxio DVD-player tool. Not on any standard Mac or DVD-player
    Full BD-disks needs a BD-player (in Mac) as they need blue-laser to be read. No red-laser can do this.
    • HOW much free space is there on Your internal (start-up) hard disk. Go for approx. 25Gb.
    less than 5Gb and Your result will most probably not play.
    • How it was recorded - Tripod vs Handheld Camera. A stable picture will give a much higher quality
    • Audio is most often more critical than picture. Bad audio and with dropouts usually results in a non-viewed movie.
    • Use of Video-editor. iMovie’08 or 09 or 11 are not the tools for DVD-production. They discard every second line resulting in a close to VHS-tape quality.
    iMovie 1 to HD6 and FinalCut any version delivers same quality as Camera record in = 100% to iDVD
    • What kind of movie project You drop into it. MPEG4 seems to be a bad choice.
    other strange formats are .avi, .wmv, .flash etc. Convert to streamingDV first
    Also audio formats matters. I use only .aiff or from miniDV tape Camera 16-bit
    strange formats often problematic are .avi, .wmv, audio from iTunes, .mp3 etc
    Convert to .aiff first and use this in movie project
    • What kind of standard - NTSC movie and NTSC DVD or PAL to PAL - no mix.
    (If You need to change to do a NTSC DVD from PAL material let JES_Deinterlacer_3.2.2 do the conversion)
    (Dropping a PAL movie into a NTSC iDVD project
    (US) NTSC DVDs most often are playable in EU
    (EU) PAL DVDs most often needs to be converted to play in US
    UNLESS. They are play-backed by a Mac - then You need not to care
    • What kind of DVDs You are using. I use Verbatim DVD-R (this brand AND no +R or +/-RW)
    • How You encode and burn it. Two settings prior iDVD’08 or 09
    Pro Quality (only in iDVD 08 & 09)
    Best / High Quality (not always - most often not)
    Best / High Performances (most often my choice before Pro Quality)
    1. go to iDVD pref. menu and select tab far right and set burn speed to x1 (less errors = plays better) - only in iDVD 08 & 09
    (x4 by some and may be even better)
    2. Project info. Select Professional Encoding - only in iDVD 08 & 09.
    Region codes.
    iDVD - only burn Region = 0 - meaning - DVDs are playable everywhere
    DVD Studio pro can set Region codes.
    1 = US
    2 = EU
    unclemano wrote
    What it turned out to be was the "quality" settings in iDVD. The total clip time was NOT over 2 hours or 4.7GB, yet iDVD created massive visual artifacts on the "professional quality" setting.
    I switched the settings to "high quality" which solved the problem. According iDVD help, "high quality" determines the best bit rate for the clips you have.
    I have NEVER seen iDVD do this before, especially when I was under the 2 hour and 4.7GB limits.
    For anyone else, there seem to be 2 places in iDVD to set quality settings, the first is under "preferences" and the second under "project info." They do NOT seem to be linked (i.e. if you change one, the other is NOT changed). take care, Mario
    to get this to work I
    • Secure a minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up (Mac OS) hard disk
    • Use Verbatim DVD-R (absolutely no +/-RW)
    • Set down burn speed to x4 - less burn errors = plays on more devices
    • No other process running in background as - ScreenSaver, EnergySaver OR TIMEMACHINE etc
    • and I'm very careful on what kind of video-codecs, audio file format and photo file formats I use
    • and I consider the iDVD Bug - never go back to video-editor to change/up-date - if so Start  a brand new iDVD project
    • Chapters set as they should - NO one at very beginning and no one in any transition or within 2 sec from it
    • Lay-out - Turn on TV-Safe area and keep everything buttons, titles etc WELL INSIDE not even touching it !
    Try to break the process up into two stages
    • Save as a DiskImage (calculating part)
    • Burn from this .img file (burning stage)
    To isolate where the problem starts.
    Another thing is - Playing it onto a Blu-Ray Player. My PlayStation3 can play BD-disks but not all of my home made DVDs so to get this to work I
    • Secure a minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up (Mac OS) hard disk
    • Use Verbatim DVD-R (absolutely no +/-RW)
    • Set down burn speed to x4 - less burn errors = plays on more devices
    • No other process running in background as - ScreenSaver, EnergySaver OR TIMEMACHINE etc
    • and I'm very careful on what kind of video-codecs, audio file format and photo file formats I use
    • and I consider the iDVD Bug - never go back to video-editor to change/up-date - if so Start  a brand new iDVD project
    • Chapters set as they should - NO one at very beginning and no one in any transition or within 2 sec from it
    • Lay-out - Turn on TV-Safe area and keep everything buttons, titles etc WELL INSIDE not even touching it !
    TO GET IT TO WORK SLIGHTLY FASTER
    • Minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up hard disk
    • No other programs running in BackGround e.g. Energy-Saver
    • Don’t let HD spin down or be turned off (in Energy-Save)
    • Move hard disks that are not to be used to Trash - To be disconnected/turned off
    • Goto Spotlight and set the rest of them under Integrity (not to be scanned)
    • Set screen-saver to a folder without any photo - then make an active corner (up right for me) and set
    pointer to this - turns on screen saver - to show that it has nothing to show
    • No File Vault on - Important
    • NO - TimeMachine - during iMovie/iDVD work either ! IMPORTANT
    • Lot's of icons on DeaskTop/Finder also slows down the Mac noticeably
    • Start a new User-Account and log into this and iMovie get's faster too - if a project is in a hurry
    • And let Mac run on Mains - not just on battery
    Yours Bengt W

  • What is the best way to export a DVCam proyect to DVD Studio Pro?

    I always export them as a normal quick time file but you are able to see some digital noise in some shots. What am I doing wrong?

    Why,,,oh why I ask? do we export to QT first?
    Export your sequence directly to compressor using the highest Mbps you can allow according to the length of your sequence. For example, you can use this formula: 560/minutes of video=bitrate. Let's say you've got a video that is 90 minutes in length---560/90=6.2, so you would compress using a bitrate that averages 6.2 Mbps. What is that you say? your sequence is only 20 min. long? then use the highest bitrate that most DVD players can withstand which is somewhere around 8.0 Mbps, for safety I never go higher than 7.5 Mbps. Use Dolby 2.0 for audio.
    THEN BRING IT INTO DVDSP
    Good luck

  • What is the best way to import and edit a large amount of footage?

    Hello Apple world,
    As a newbie to Final Cut 10 I have a question regarding best ways to import footage. I'll give you a quick run down.
    I have a 150 gig of gopro footage that I just hit 'import' to recently (from my external HD), it took around 10 hours to process it all.
    Its all under one event, but then somewhat organised into dates etc. But it is very slow. I imported it all at once because it was all footage from the last 6 months of my Whistler/states/fiji trip and want to make a movie out of it, using clips from all over the time, not just in chronological order.
    I have the latest mac book pro, 4 gig ram,2.4 GHz i7, 750 hard drive, with nothing else on the computer.
    Ive read about creating proxy media, after ive imported, but am still somewhat confused as to the benefit. Does it create duplicates? that will fill up my pretty large HD as it is!
    Can you suggest any ways that might make my laptop run a bit faster? Should i delete and work directly from external HD etc etc?
    Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated!
    Thanks in advance
    Harlee

    ascreenwriter wrote:
    Hello,
    I've just finished shooting what I am considering to be my directorial masterpiece.  Shot it on the Canon 5D (1080p, 24fps), and the footage looks amazing.  Now I am ready to start editing and have been using premiere lately, but I have yet to figure out the proper pipeline.  I want to know the best way to retain resolution before I delve into this project.
    My questions:
    1)  What is the best way to start a new project and import the footage without having to render whilst editing, so as to retain all resolution and originality of the source footage?
    2)  What is the best way/ codec/ format to export this same footage once editing is complete so as to retain that crisp 1080p for which the 5D is so recognized?
    3)  What is the best way/ codec/ format to import and export/ render between premiere and after effects?  I am speaking mostly of vfx and color correction.  I also have some 30fps footage that I intend to slow down in AE and then import into premiere.
    I know this is pretty broad, but as a solo filmmaker I really need someone's guidance.  I rarely ever finish my films with the same, crisp look as the footage.  I need pipeline help, and really appreciate it!
    1. Follow the advice above. Also use the Media Browser to import the footage in case you have spanned media files. Import files with the Media Browser.
    2. It largely depends on what you wish to ouput to: Blu-ray, web, etc. This FAQ gives the best answer: What are the best export settings?
    3. Use the Replace with Adobe After Effects Composition function.

  • What is the best way to import and export footage from the 5D Mark II?

    Hello,
    I've just finished shooting what I am considering to be my directorial masterpiece.  Shot it on the Canon 5D (1080p, 24fps), and the footage looks amazing.  Now I am ready to start editing and have been using premiere lately, but I have yet to figure out the proper pipeline.  I want to know the best way to retain resolution before I delve into this project.
    My questions:
    1)  What is the best way to start a new project and import the footage without having to render whilst editing, so as to retain all resolution and originality of the source footage?
    2)  What is the best way/ codec/ format to export this same footage once editing is complete so as to retain that crisp 1080p for which the 5D is so recognized?
    3)  What is the best way/ codec/ format to import and export/ render between premiere and after effects?  I am speaking mostly of vfx and color correction.  I also have some 30fps footage that I intend to slow down in AE and then import into premiere.
    I know this is pretty broad, but as a solo filmmaker I really need someone's guidance.  I rarely ever finish my films with the same, crisp look as the footage.  I need pipeline help, and really appreciate it!

    ascreenwriter wrote:
    Hello,
    I've just finished shooting what I am considering to be my directorial masterpiece.  Shot it on the Canon 5D (1080p, 24fps), and the footage looks amazing.  Now I am ready to start editing and have been using premiere lately, but I have yet to figure out the proper pipeline.  I want to know the best way to retain resolution before I delve into this project.
    My questions:
    1)  What is the best way to start a new project and import the footage without having to render whilst editing, so as to retain all resolution and originality of the source footage?
    2)  What is the best way/ codec/ format to export this same footage once editing is complete so as to retain that crisp 1080p for which the 5D is so recognized?
    3)  What is the best way/ codec/ format to import and export/ render between premiere and after effects?  I am speaking mostly of vfx and color correction.  I also have some 30fps footage that I intend to slow down in AE and then import into premiere.
    I know this is pretty broad, but as a solo filmmaker I really need someone's guidance.  I rarely ever finish my films with the same, crisp look as the footage.  I need pipeline help, and really appreciate it!
    1. Follow the advice above. Also use the Media Browser to import the footage in case you have spanned media files. Import files with the Media Browser.
    2. It largely depends on what you wish to ouput to: Blu-ray, web, etc. This FAQ gives the best answer: What are the best export settings?
    3. Use the Replace with Adobe After Effects Composition function.

  • I have two videos and I would like to use parts of both videos with one audio track what is the best way to edit this?, I have two videos and I would like to use parts of both videos with one audio track what is the best way to edit this?

    In Final Cut Express I have two videos I'd like to merge parts of each video into a final film.  What is the best way to do this in FCE?

    Hi
    I use a slightly different way than Alchroma.
    Same
    • One video on track 1 and the other on Video.track 2
    • Resize to 25% and move one to the left and the other to the right
    Diff
    • I don't use the blade tool
    • I use the Pen tool and change the transparency - then I get fast or slow transitions in same stroke and easy to fine-tune later if needed. (But this can be done with the Roll-tool if Blade is used - so it might be as easy)
    Final
    • Resize to 100% and Center
    Video is done
    Audio - very close to this by changing the level so that best audio will dominate
    • Pen tool here too
    But that's me - the Alchroma way is as good as this or may be better for some
    Yours Bengt W

  • What is the best way to edit meta data..

    What is the best way to edit meta data and tag photos, faces, places etc. and have the data saved to the original photo.
    On a PC I would just use Windows Gallery. iPhoto on the Mac allows for some tagging, but it doesn't save to the original file.
    I like to have my photos in a folder, edit them and save the changes.
    What software would work best on a MAC to accomplish this?
    Thanks for any help,
    Nick

    iPhoto is a database and any metadata you add or edit is available in any app - if you learn how to use it.
    iPhoto is a non-destructive processor. It never touches the original file - it treats it like a film shooter treats the negative.
    If you want a copy of the original file with the metadata included simply export a copy.
    This User Tip
    https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-4921
    has details of the options in the Export dialogue.
    As an FYI:
    For help accessing your photos in iPhoto see this user tip:
    https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-4491

  • What's the best way to create basic scrolling up end credits

    What's the best way to create basic scrolling up end credits with FCE. I want create normal look after the film that has a gap between the working title and the name (center-aligned, two-column
    scrolls)
    In the FCE Manual there was a good way to to do it with an asterisk (*) between the the words, but problem occurs when I had an umlaut (ÄÖ) in the word. The asterisk becomes visible and as many umlauts in the working title so many letters missing from the beginning of the name. I'm from Finland and we have lots of umlauts. So is there any other way to do this with FCE.

    You can use Title Crawl in Boris to do this. You set it up like a word processor with a right aligned tab, a gap and then a left aligned tab. Double click in the ruler to create a tab stop. Double click it again to change its alignment. You use the tab key to move between the stops. It's kind of hard to explain, but if you play with it, I think you'll get it.
    There is also Boris documentation on the install disc which will explain it more fully.
    Message was edited by: Tom Wolsky

  • What is the best way to archive old footage (DVD, VHS, Super 8 etc.)

    Hello,
    I am starting a huge archiving projet of possibley 100-200 hours of footage from all kinds of sources (VHS tapes, Mini DV, Super 8 film).
    What is the best way to archive this footage at the highest possible resolution?
    What sort of file should be saved?
    Im a complete starter at this.
    Thank you!

    One strategy is to purchase a Canopus ADVC300 analog/dv converter. It has a TBC incorporated.
    You connect your original source material (for example - VHS deck) to the Canopus via analog cables then from the Canopus via firewire to your computer. This will turn everything into DV format.
    Play the tape through the canopus and record to your hard drive.
    Take good notes for each tape. Create a logging sheet and make notes as the system captures.
    Once you have the tapes in the computer, break them into 1 hr or less segments by some reasonable system - chronologically, by personalities, locations or whatever makes sense to you.
    Then write out each 1 hour segment back to a DV recorder. Give each tape a unique reel number - and make the reel number part of the file name on the computer.
    When you are done in a year or two ( lol ) you should have two matching sets of material - one on the hard drives and one on tape - with names that make it easy to cross reference and a binder full of logging information. If you want to be fully digital, look into a nifty application like CatDV. It will help organize a mass of video info like this.
    DV runs at ~13-14GB/ hr. Plan you storage accordingly.
    Purchase professional quality DV tapes - not drugstore junk.
    Good luck.
    x

  • What is the best way to make video and audio the same lengths for posting on Web?

    YouTube recommends doing this to avoid sync problems. Maybe it will also make my videos run more smoothly. I'm talking here about random pauses I see in my movies on YouTube, not the uniform stuttering problem which I pretty much solved by redoing the movie at 30 fps instead of 24 fps. (Original is 18 fps Super 8 movie film.)
    Anyway, there is no sound during my titles. The soundtrack starts about 17 seconds in, and ends when the ending titles begin. So what's the best way to add silent audio? The best I can figure is to take some existing sound, put it in where the titles are, and turn the volume down to zero. Seems real workaround-ish, so to speak, to me. It seems to work. I even cranked it up on headphones to make sure there was no residual noice. But I'm curious if there's a better way? No biggie if not.
    Thanks.         

    I should have included the following:
    1.) Why can't I make a silent project in GarageBand? I have to instead find a project with a long enough song, make an "iLife preview" of it (see (2) below), copy it from the iMovie Music and Sound Effects browser to the end of the movie, and then open the audio panel and turn the volume to zero. And all this so that video websites don't get confused by a soundtrack that starts in mid-movie.
    2.) Why do I have to "render" them by the following process: Double-click a song in the iMovie Music and Sound Effects browser. You get a dialog box saying "The project "The Great Race" cannot be used because it was not prepared with an iLife preview. Would you like to open "The Great Race" in GB so you can save it with an iLife preview?" What I don't understand is why this new thing was introduced and why I have to do it via iMovie.

  • What is the best way to upload videos to your PC.

    What is the best way to download videos from your iphone to your PC.

    There's no "best" way per se, and there's differences depending on what application created the video.  If you used the standard Camera app to take the video, simply connect your phone to your computer, after iTunes syncs you can close iTunes or minimize it, and open My Computer (Windows XP) or Computer (Windows Vista/7), and in the folder window you'll see a removable device called iPhone with a camera icon.  When you open that window, you'll see the contents of your Camera Roll where you can cut or copy the item, then paste onto Desktop or into another folder.  Other applications have different methods.  Some save to the Camera Roll so you can move those the same way, others, like iMovie, you have to first "share" the video to your Camera Roll after the film is complete, then remove the same way.  Other apps, like Silent Film for example, set up an FTP connection to your LAN and you retrieve the video via an FTP client (or a web browser as web browsers can log into FTP connections).
    Hope that helps.

  • What is the best way to set up iTunes on our home network so all family members have access to all of our itunes library, even music we don't have on the cloud?

    I have five different people using 10 different apple devices on one itunes account in our family.  We have had trouble sharing.  What is the best way to set up itunes on our home network?  We have purchased music that sits on icloud, but we also have music we have imported from our previous cd library.  Our itunes program keeps crashing and dumping everyone's playlists.  So far we have all been using just the one desktop computer to sync to because we can't figure out how to share the same librarly and playlists on multiple computers in our home so devices can be synced at any location as well as playlists and purchases be made. 

    What is the best way to set up itunes on our home network? 
    One iTunes library per person.  One iTunes account per person.
    If people wish to share songs, they can make copies.
    When the inevitable day comes when the kids get older, you will not have to come back here and post asking how all that stuff can get separated!

  • HT1349 I lost/had my iPhone stolen. Tried using Find My iPhone and it's offline. It was set up. What do I do now? Do I report it stolen? What is the best way in getting back my iPhone if any? Thank you in advance.

    Tried using Find My iPhone and it's offline. It (Find my iPhone) was set up. What do I do now? Do I report it stolen? What is the best way in getting back my iPhone if any? Thank you in advance.

    Find My iPhone is good for misplaced iPhone but not good for thief and it was never meant to be.
    You chance of getting it back is very small.
    There are a few things you can try.
    Try remote lock/wipe your iPhone through Find My iPhone.
    https://www.icloud.com
    You can report to the police, cell carrier (expensive cell charges for international calls, roaming etc)
    Change all the passwords used in iPhone: Apple ID, E-mail, Bank Account ....
    http://support.apple.com/kb/HT2526

Maybe you are looking for