What should power supply temperature be?

I have major fan issues with my mac pro. It is super loud all my temperature readings seem pretty good ranging from 25-35 degrees, except for power supply. It has temperature of 62 (location 1) and 58 (location 2).
Is that normal or does that seem high?

I don't know if there's a 'right' temperature and there are a lot of variables.
My Mac Pro (less than a year old) is typically always on, and my power supply comes in (currently) at around 113 degrees farenheit (45 celsius), as I kick back and surf the web. It's quite a few degrees hotter when I'm putting the machine to serious work, converting or rendering video or audio files.
Depending on the work you're doing, the age of the machine (the older a system is, the more likely dust will have accumulated, causing it to run hotter), the environment (smokers, pets, etc, all contribute to dust accumulation), you could easily see temperatures that high or even higher.
Dust is probably your machine's worst enemy, those micro-fine particles settle on the components and act as an insulator, over enough time they can cause components to fail. For a bit of light maintenance, power the machine off, open it up, and use a can of compressed air to blow as much dust out of your system as possible (you may be surprised how much can accumulate in there).
Hope that info helps!

Similar Messages

Power supply temperature: is 85'C normal?

Sorry, I am kind of all over the place - not sure where to post the question.
My iMac (24", 10.5.8) has been heating up at the top left corner, where the power supply is. I took it to the Genie bar and they said it is normal to feel warmth in that corner. They said the fans are working OK and the temperature sensors are fine. However, I have checked the temperature yesterday again - it was showing 85'C. Normal? Hm. I could boil a kettle on my mac - but that is not why i bought it.
I have now installed smcFanControl 2.2.2, which has brought the temperature down to 70'C. However, I can hear the fans now, as I have increased their speed from just under a 1000 each, to 2019(CPU)/2514(HD)/1560(OD).
I wonder now:
1. is 85'C normal for power supply and should I switch off the smcFanControl?
2. is it safe to have fans going at double the original speed?
3. I still have a year left on my warranty - should I take action?

Hi Joshua
I also have the same Early 17" and totally agree with you, that slightly running the fans up will help the iMac last longer. I've been using smcFanControl sense I first brought my iMac home in Jan 06 and noticed the GPU would go up to +80C. I don't do games on my iMac, but run a second 21.5" LG Display and have always kept my GPU under 65C without pushing the fans to the point were they can be heard. I will probably pass it on to my wife or grandson this year, but see no reason for it to not last at least 4 more years.
These are my fan settings and temperatures.
Dennis

Power Supply Temperatures Running Hot! Mac Pro shuts down.

Hello,
First I will give machine/hardware specs of interest:
2 x 3 GHz Quad-Core Intel Xeon (pre 2009)
8 GB 800 MHz DDR2 FB-DIMM
NVIDIA Quadro FX 5600 (running 2 displays)
Apple RAID Card/Controller
SMC Version: 1.25f4
*venting dimensions around computer: top=18", left side=3", right side=3" and back=18".
Software of interest currently running:
OS X 10.5.8
iStat Menu
SMC Fan Control
My machine has been shutting down spontaneously and I suspect either CPU or power supply overheating. In the 5 instances this has occurred, the room was very warm (AC was not on) and I was running HandBrake with CPU at full and an iStat reading of 145 F. Ambient was 77 F and I was not reading power supply temps at the time. I figured for sure this must be a CPU overheating issue. However, just a few hours ago I had another shutdown. The room was warm again but I was not running Handbrake, but StarCraft II. I have played a lot of Starcraft II with no problems until tonight.
I decided, this time, to check the temps on my power supplies. Power supply 1 = 147 F, and #2 is at 178 F. After many hours of searching forums I have concluded that these are crazy hot temps! I immediately installed SMC Fan Control to attempt to increase the fan speeds. I was successful in increasing all fans except the power supply (stuck at 599rpm). I have now turned the AC on in the house and the Ambient is down to 70, PS #1 145 and PS #2 169. All of these temps are a result of and idle machine running a browser.
The following may or may not be an issue, however, leave no stone unturned. I currently have 12 external devices running on USB. 4 WD passport drives, 1 DVD writer, 5 WD powered drives plus the keyboard and mouse. Also, the Mac Pro is plugged into a small UPS.
In all my forum searches, I just can't seem to answer some basic questions:
1. Can an overheated power supply shut the system down?
2. What are optimal (normal) running temps for Mac Pro's? (everyone seems to have opinions, but there doesn't appear to be a technical specification anywhere).
3. I thought the fans, especially CPU fans, were supposed to kick in when the heat rises. Why are mine staying at minimal rpm's?
Finally, does it look like I need new power supplies? Fans?
This machine was put into service in March of 2008 and has done very intensive rendering for the film industry...long nights...rendering for days sometimes. It has been retired for over a year now and is used at a lesser degree.
Thanks for reading this long post! I appreciate any input you can provide!
Other iStat reading of interest:
Power Supply 1 voltage = 12.28 V
Power Supply 1 current = 26.44 A
Power Supply 1 power = 316.75 W

Also, the Mac Pro is plugged into a small UPS.
Put your peripherals on that.
Don't share the same circuit for A/C as the Mac Pro, and put the Mac on 1300VA UPS at least.
As for all those external drives.... I'd consolidate into a good SATA case or two.
And yes in summer run with 3 of the fans up around 900 rpm.

How do I know what model Power Supply to buy?

I have a 2007 Mac Pro 3Ghz and I was wondering if the power supply I need is just the one for this year or is it determined by something else like my model number or what.
I have really only seen one out there for just like 2006-2007 Mac Pro but there was one that said 8x in the name also for a 2006-2007 and this is an 8-core so maybe that is the right one.
Thanks
I had out the power supply today and I never screwed it back in so I guess it may have a sticker or stamp on it I can check tomorrow. To tired to look now it's 3AM.

I believe this is the want you want:
http://www.welovemacs.com/6614001.html
To be sure I would contact the sales staff indicated in the link. It also lists the EEE code at the bottom of the link in the Notes section which you can compare to your power supply since you already have it out.
Message was edited by: Martin Pace

What replacement power supply for m72e small form factor

Simple question
I have a bunch of lenovo m72e small form factor pc's.
is the power supply a standard tfx or some sort of proprietary system.
I was thinking of upgrading and also preparing for furture failure contingency.

Many thanks for the update. it is as i feared. i hate the proprietary major components.... oh well, thank goodness for ebay.
also, much less important as I figured out how to sysprep a machine to move windows recently. Since our office FINALLY migrated to windows 7 x64; any future upgrades will be fairly easy on a modern OS.
The m72e we purchased have 3 years support build in so it should be a while before I have to worry about servicing them.
Having said all this, the Dell vostro 200 systems we have are 7 years old and trucking along with no service issues so far.
Lenovo machines were cheaper / on sale at the time and dell has since discontinued their vostro line so we tried the switch over on 1/2 our workstations @ the office.
The speed of the system is fine but there are certainly some bios/hardware bugs that we have noted around the network card.
I doubt we will transition the rest of the systems to lenovo at this point. Sure is easy to service when all your systems are from 1 vendor and the exact same lineage though.

Z77A-GD65 No Power Supply temperature sensor support???

Just a dumb question

Quote from: Henry on 08-May-12, 06:48:39
Name some, I've never seen any.
Forget it, PWM (power module) probably the vrm temps that i was used to see in Abit uGuru, Funny i always suspected that something was wrong with that temps. Thx guys always into learning something

I want to know what power supply I have

I think I might have had the same probs as morg, how do I check what my power supply is, and also what temperature does a computer overheat at, and why is it the worst when im playing high demanding games.
One more thing what supply does a Ti4200 running at 4X need?
thanks

make model and max amps 3.3 5 and 12v will all be on its label

IBook G3 M6497 - What Power Supply?

I got a free iBook G3 Dual USB, model M6497. The catch was that it did not come with a power supply, it had been in a closet for a few years and the owner doe snot remember where it was left X years ago.
Anyway, what model power supply do I need?
I know a guy with a M7332 yoyo, but I that one has a different tip, am I wrong and it will work?

Hi, and welcome to Apple Discussions.
It takes this one:
http://store.apple.com/us/product/M8943LL/A
Some of the older yo-yo type adapters have the correct size tip, but some do not. I would advise buying the newer style so that you have the colored light ring which tells you when the battery is charging and when it isn't.

Shock Therapy - An Athlon64 / FX Power Supply Guide

I used to make a hardware list of all the components I would like to incorporate in my next
computer build. Normally...at the bottom of that list would be the power supply, not that I
didn't think it was important, it's just that my other hardware was so interesting! Today, power supplys
seem to take a back seat to blazing-speed CPU's, Dual-Cored processors, glitz and glamour
video cards...not to mention supersonic, heat-sinked RAM and modular, gizmoe'd PSU's promising not
only over-achiever specifications, but eye-candy as well. The lowly PSU....tucked up somewhere inside
it's dark and lonely loft....effortlessly supplying us with the energy required for important 3D imaging
or just funning with the latest games.
What a power supply does is rather simple. It converts your office or home's socketed electricity to
usable 3.3v, 5.0v and 12.0v energy...that's all. A power supply that cannot efficiently do this will-
over time-cause computer crashes, continuous reboots and shutdowns, and worse...expensive component damage.
And now, with faster processors such as AMD's Athlon64 and FX line of CPU's, never has there been a time, when
choosing the right power supply is so important! This article is written for those using these high-powered CPU's!
Well...Do we have your attention!?
If you are experiencing these problems, or still scratching your head over that last RMA....could be
your PSU is trying to tell you something.
To begin with, a power supply's ratings refer to its maximum output under ideal conditions. No power
supply is 100% efficient. In high-quantity manufacturing, power supplys may not put out any more than 60% of
their advertised specifications. In any PSU, that rating can be further reduced by the effects of heat
and electro-magnetic radiation. That's where "switching" power supplys come in. A switching power supply draws
only as much current that is needed from the AC input. Buying a hefty PSU with this feature will guarantee
that you will be paying no more for electric service, than you would with a cheaper, less powerful unit.
One of the most common causes of power supply inefficiency, and ultimately failure is dirt. Dust and
foreign materials can cause the beginning of the end for a power supply, by attacking the fan first.
It begins by slowing the fan down...thus creating heat through friction, then ultimately burning it out.
PSU's with high-quality ball bearing fans are a must. They are far more durable, and not as likely to
become noisier as time goes by.
As a general rule...a failing PSU will usually emit abnormal sounds, followed by unstable voltage readings....
then the computer crashes or lock-ups, with random shutdowns, and sometimes...refusal to even power-up.
If you think your power supply is on its last leg...better to deal with it now, or face the more serious dilemmas later on.
APM (Advanced Power Management)
APM is a feature originally developed by partners, Microsoft and Intel. It relates to a systems ability
to utilize different states in regards to a systems utilization of power. On, Off, Standby and Suspend
are examples...these are BIOS features, not PSU functions. APM only requires of the power supply, the
function to turn power on or off through an electrical signal, and the presence of stand-by voltage.
All ATX power supplys are required to incorporate this feature. However, if some components in a computer
are not APM-compliant, your system may encounter errors or freezes when going into hibernate or stand-by
modes.
ACPI (Advanced Control Power Interface)
It's the latest power management control that was developed by a conglomeration of IT corporations. This interface
is O.S. derived, rather than BIOS, and all ATX power supplys should be ACPI-compliant. You should not have to be
concerned about this feature.
Line-Conditioning Circuitry
A power supply component that helps control power levels, spikes and surges in
the most unreliable of home sockets.
EMI Filter
This circuitry smooths the fluctuations of incoming AC currents, also known
as Electro-Magnetic Interference - EMI filters are usually found in higher-end power supplys.
PFCC
Power Factor Correction Circuitry...smooths out sudden, initial spikes in power
delivery - reducing amplitude and preventing circuit overloads.
Connectors
There are five main connectors found on the latest version ATX power supply.
1) ATX main power connector - 20-pin, 24-pin, and 20 to 24-pin adapter.
2) ATX 12v power connector (4-pin to CPU)
3) Molex peripheral power connector
4) Floppy power connector
5) Serial ATA power connector
On newer SLI-certified power supplys, you'll find two 6-pin video card connectors.
Know What You Need
When purchasing a power supply, make sure your parts list is all-inclusive...know ahead of time, what you expect to
install in your system. You should also visit the motherboard manufacturer's site, as well as the CPU's. Most of the
products will have specifics regarding power supply requirements needed for that specific component. Unfortunately, you
really won't know how well the PSU performs until it is installed and running your system (hopefully!) This is the main reason we
recommend the most popular brands - power supplys that have shown a duration of manufacturing quality over the years. Those are
as follows: Antec, Enermax, OCZ, PC Power and Cooling, Tagan, and a few newcomers such as SeaSonic and Silverstone are
worth looking into.
If you believe you have found the PSU of choice, remember this: AMD recommends a minimum 350 watt power supply to run
Athlon64 and FX CPU's. To that, add the 30% for power lost to heat, and the subsequent electro-magnetic radiation. Hold on with that
calculator...throw in an additional 40% to 60% for the "potential" inaccuracies of specifications inherent in mass-produced electronics.
Pay special attention to outputs on either single, or dual rail +12v lines. A motherboard, CPU, and graphics card can consume up to
150 watts alone - before hooking up your remaining components. If running an SLI configured board, look for a PSU that is certified
to run that configuration...there's only a few PSU's that lay claim to that!
Broken down, you can look at it this way: An Athlon64/FX processor can use up to 90 watts off the +12v rail. High performance RAM
can take in about 25 watts for each stick of 256MB system memory from the +3.3v line. PCI cards will use about 10 watts each, while
an AGP video card can consume about 50 precious watts alone from the +5v or +12v. Hard drives? A 7,200 RPM drive...about 15 watts
each, taken from the +5v and +12v rail. Finally, but not absolutely is the optical drives...robbing about 20 watts each, also from
the +5v and +12v lines. So you see....not only is the +12v amp ratings of concern, but also the +5v line!
In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
Modular Power Supplys:
The pins that are used for the modular plugs are not very good at passing current. It's basically electrical resistance between the male and female components, and voltage "drops" are likely. In real world events, they will become loose, dirty, corrosive, and eventually burn. You can figure about 10% less efficiency with a modular power supply.
Now you can understand how manufacturing "tolerances" that are inaccurate by 40% to 60%, can have such a devastating effect on
the performance of your new system. If you follow these simple guidelines, bearing in mind the hardware you will be using, and what
your intended use of the computer is for...then it will be one less dramatic incident when pushing the power button for the first time!
Here's a neat little tool....a bit out of date - that can give you a basic idea of what you'll need in a PSU.
You can apply the percentages above, for an even more accurate assesment of your PSU requirements!
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/Power_Supply_Calculator.php?cmd=AMD

Quote
In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
Well, except the CPU, my system has all that you mentioned there (I even have 3 optical drives). And my 350W PSU has been rock solid for more than a year (BeQuiet, = Tagan, IIRC). I don't think a 4000+ needs 100W more than my 3200+ . And that link you posted says that the minimum recommended PSU for my system is 506W xD. Come on.
Oh, and in the place I work there are 6 amd64 with GeForce 6800 GT and 2GB RAM with 380W Antec PSUs. All 100% stable, of course.
I would only go for >400W if I wanted to do extreme OC (with overvolting), or SLI. Otherwise, a good brand 350W PSU is more than enough.

I need help to replace my power supply for the hp pavilion elite m9510f

This computer has given me many problems since I bought it in '09. From graphic card fan issues, a hard drive crash, and now the power supply has failed.
I did the blow dryer trick but it still ends up breaking a week later. I want to know what new power supply should I buy. One that will be able to fit in the hp pavilion elite m9510f and is an upgrade to the 350w that it has. Maybe somthing under 60-70 dollars if possible. Thanks for any help.

It appears to be a normal case and motherboard. A normal ATX supply should work: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=50001333&IsNodeId=1&Description=Computer...
Just an example of what is availble, but most any should work as long the physical dimensions match the one installed now.
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Please click "Accept As Solution" if my help has solved your problem. ----------}
This is a user supported forum. I am a volunteer and I do not work for HP.

MSI KT6 Delta MOBO - recommended power supply

My power supply exploded , I think, and I cannot power up the system. Hopefully this has not affected the rest of the system: chip, graphcard etc.
What voltage power supply should I have for this particular motherboard?
cheers

I'm sorry some of you are having problems with cheap power supplies. That is beside the point, however. I can only state what I know from experience, as I have never taken any classes in switching supply design. I have absolutely zero (0) problems with cheap supplies. And any motherboard that is so power hungry that it can itself overdraw a power supply is very poor design. As I said, I ran my HP Pavilion xt983 with a 200-watt cheap-o PSU with all that stuff in my previous post for over 4 years with no problems (and the PSU still works even after the mobo died from bad capacitors). I am using it to rebuild the exact same (minus HP mobo) system when the replacement mobo (crappy Chaintech) comes back this week from being repaired under warranty.
I never said wattage was the only metric - it's just a guide, as no manufacturer I know of specifies exactly how much and what type of current anything they build uses in the computer world (nor would I trust the spec if they did) - it changes under load. Most people use max figures to decide how much current they need. I just don't want people thinking they need an expensive PSU to run their good to mediocre PC. I don't use junk and my PCs last for years on end (actually never had one I built die for any reason, knock on wood). You do not need a high-wattage or even big namebrand PSU at all, unless you are building a very high-end PC (with light cathodes, water cooling, light kits, multiple every kind of drives, etc. - meaning you plan to abuse the system). The run-of-the-mill PC needs no more than a cheap (non-junky) PSU that can provide at least 17 amps on the 12V rail. That's what I use and that's what I recommend. Wattage should be at 300+ watts to "allow for expansion". Use the calculator. See what all you have to add to get up anywhere near 430 Watts. It can be done, but I would never tax a system that way. The bottom line is watts are only a limiting factor, not a design factor. If you add up all the rails on a typical 430-Watt PSU, it is way over 430 watts. However, if you use all the 12V amps it can turn out and still stay near 12 volts, most of the 5V amps, and most of the 3.3V amps by overloading the system with doodads and whatnots, the 430W limit will matter. As long as you build what I consider a normal system, you'll never use 430 Watts. All decent PSUs can supply enough 3.3V and 5V current (should be around 30-40+ amps each), but many of them are deficient on the 12V rail. Looking for a PSU that can churn out 17+ amps on the 12V rail usually means it can handle about any normal load (meaning single processor, mobo, a HDD or two, a FDD, a few sticks of RAM, and DR/DVD burner or two, and a few expansion cards with no strange mods like lights and 100 fans, water cooling, etc.) on all rails.
So, to recap: For everyday computing, watts are only a limiting factor, so don't get less than 300 in case you really want that power hungry device of the future or want to build a top-end system now. Current is critical, so don't get anything that's puny on any rail (3.3+5V = ~30-40+ amps each and 12V = 17+ amps). Ignore all the "this power supply rocks" junk you'll see in bulletin boards and on Newegg (and other retailers) and look at the specs yourself. Namebrand means as much as you think it does - some have a good rep, some have a bad rep, some have no rep.

ASA 5512 - monitor power supply status via snmp oid

Device – ASA 5512 running 9.1(1).
Show version:
ASA-1# sh ver
Cisco Adaptive Security Appliance Software Version 9.1(1)
Device Manager Version 6.6(1)
Compiled on Wed 28-Nov-12 11:15 PST by builders
System image file is "disk0:/asa911-smp-k8.bin"
Config file at boot was "startup-config"
ASA-1 up 8 hours 38 mins
Hardware:   ASA5512-K7, 4096 MB RAM, CPU Clarkdale 2792 MHz, 1 CPU (2 cores)
            ASA: 2048 MB RAM, 1 CPU (1 core)
Internal ATA Compact Flash, 4096MB
BIOS Flash MX25L6445E @ 0xffbb0000, 8192KB
Issue: looking for a snmp OID to poll power supply status (Inbuilt Power Supply - no redundant power supply in this scenario). Possibly what we see in show environment.
CSE analysis:
I tried using the OIDs belonging to CISCO-ENTITY-FRU-CONTROL-MIB , like cefcFRUPowerOperStatus and cefcFRUPowerAdminStatus but it didn’t return anything.
NOTE: I have done all the snmp walks from the Linux server. Do I doubt it’s something to do from the snmp manager side.
Couple of observations. The CISCO-ENTITY-FRU-CONTROL-MIB talks about the field replaceable power supplies, so I doubt if it’s going to return the value for inbuilt power supply.
Second, I noticed that there are snmp traps supported for power supply and threshold setting. See configuration below. Is it that only traps works for power supply and environment related details?
Snmpwalk on cefcFRUPowerStatusEntry returns nothing:
[root@tonbenso-eagle bin]# ./snmpwalk -v2c -c public 172.16.169.29 1.3.6.1.4.1.9.9.117.1.1.2.1
SNMPv2-SMI::enterprises.9.9.117.1.1.2.1 = No Such Object available on this agent at this OID
Snmpwalk on cefcFRUPowerOperStatus returns nothing:
[root@tonbenso-eagle bin]# ./snmpwalk -v2c -c public 172.16.169.29 1.3.6.1.4.1.9.9.117.1.1.2.1.2
SNMPv2-SMI::enterprises.9.9.117.1.1.2.1.2 = No Such Instance currently exists at this OID
Snmpwalk on cefcFRUPowerAdminStatus returns nothing:
[root@tonbenso-eagle bin]# ./snmpwalk -v2c -c public 172.16.169.29 1.3.6.1.4.1.9.9.117.1.1.2.1.1
SNMPv2-SMI::enterprises.9.9.117.1.1.2.1.1 = No Such Instance currently exists at this OID
[root@tonbenso-eagle bin]#
login as: root
I tried polling the ciscoEntityFRUControlMIB to see what all values it return. It just returned enterprises.9.9.117.1.3.1.0 = INTEGER: 2. Meaning cefcMIBEnableStatusNotification is FALSE (value 2). Meaning cefcModuleStatusChange, cefcPowerStatusChange, cefcFRUInserted, cefcFRURemoved, cefcUnrecognizedFRU and cefcFanTrayStatusChange are prevented from being sent.
Snmpwalk on ciscoEntityFRUControlMIB
[1]+ Stopped                 ./snmpwalk -v2c -c public 172.16.169.29
[root@tonbenso-eagle bin]# ./snmpwalk -v2c -c public 172.16.169.29 1.3.6.1.4.1.9.9.117
SNMPv2-SMI::enterprises.9.9.117.1.3.1.0 = INTEGER: 2
Object
cefcMIBEnableStatusNotification
OID
1.3.6.1.4.1.9.9.117.1.3.1
Type
TruthValue
Permission
read-write
Status
current
MIB
CISCO-ENTITY-FRU-CONTROL-MIB ; - View Supporting Images
Description
"This variable indicates whether the system
produces the following notifications:
cefcModuleStatusChange, cefcPowerStatusChange,
cefcFRUInserted, cefcFRURemoved,
cefcUnrecognizedFRU and cefcFanTrayStatusChange.
A false value will prevent these notifications
from being generated."
Found couple of bugs:
CSCty32558 – but then this is for 5585 and I see it is fixed in 8.4
CSCul90037 – New state
Show snmp-server oidlist:
http://www-tac.cisco.com/Teams/ks/c3/getLargeFile.php?srId=632222409&fileName=20141030-013905_ASA-show-snmp-server-oidlist.txt
Show tech:
Sh run | in snmp:
ASA-1# sh run | in snmp
snmp-server host asa 172.18.123.228 community *****
no snmp-server location
no snmp-server contact
snmp-server community *****
snmp-server enable traps entity power-supply-presence power-supply-temperature -----à I was talking about this trap above
any help will be appreciated.

Hi
I've got an ASA with redundant power supplies. An ASA5585. So I have the need to monitor them. :-) So how can we do it?
Also I've made a SNMP-Walk through the ASA v8.4(2)8 and it doesn't show up any ENV-MIB values. The
1.3.6.1.4.1.9.9.13 tree is not available. Are you shure it's available on the ASA?
Funny is also that the command "show snmp-server oidlist" from the 8.4 configuration guide is not available on the real CLI. I think the documentation guys were faster than the coders. ;-)
Kind regards
Roberto

Power Supply problems? how to replace

i think my power supply started making a buzzing noise tonight. i opened my mac up and vacuumed it out, ran the apple hardware test, and the noise is still there. it is not loud, and it sounds like it is coming from the back bottom corner where the power supply sits.
i checked http://www.apple.com/support/powermac/powersupply/repairextension/ and my serial # is in the range that might have faulty power supplies.
the problem is apple won't replace it until it fails completely. i want to avoid that, so how do i know for sure it's the power supply making noise? if so, where do i buy a new one? the apple store doesn't seem to sell them.

that's a bummer that yours died completely. mine made that noise for 2 days, then the noise went away. in the past week it did it again, for about 12 hours.
i'm out of luck with the 3 year deal. i called apple store to see if i can order a replacement power supply and they had no idea what i was talking about. the guy pretended he did, then told me it would cost $40 to get a new cable to "plug my mac in". they didn't even know what a power supply was.
so do you have to send your computer in to apple to have it "repaired" or is it just dead? i'm curious because i wonder how much apple charges to replace the power supply, or if i can purchase one somewhere else and replace it myself.

Satellite L750 - Power Supply Range

Can someone please advise me what the Power Supply Range is for this Model.
The Battery shows 10.8.
Car Chargers I have been looking at are 18v-20v at 90W or 120W.
Are these Car Chargers suitable or will they damage the Laptop.
Due to the nature of my business, I need the Laptop on charge while I am driving long distance.
Thank You

Hey,
Easiest way is you check the specifciations on bottom side of your notebook. Usually there is a sticker with an information of required voltage and ampere.
The car charger must have these specifications too.
For example if your notebook requires 19V you need a charger with 19V too. Ampere must be same or higher, thats no problem.

975X power supply questions

Hello,
I'm building my first box(!) so I am a bit of a newb with some things, but otherwised an experienced tech. for the life of me I can't figure out power supplies.
My system:
975x Platinum mobo (I don't think it's v2)
Intel Core 2 Duo 6600 CPU
HIS ati 1800GTO IceQ PCIe x16 GPU
2 x 1GB ASUS PC4200 sticks
2 x 250 GB harddrives
as you can see I am building a good but not blazing machine. Here are my power supply questions:
1. what model power supply exactly does this mobo need? the 8pin CPU is an EPS12V model? would any ATX12VEPS work, or does that 8pin need to be a dedicated 12V?
2. my GPU has a PCIe power slot, and the mobo has a molex power connector for the PCIe. Do I use both? Do I just use the one on the card?
3. does the CPU require any other funky new technology in power that I need to look for?
4. (is it just me, or does is kind of information very hard to find? I can't find any details in the manual
I went ahead and bought as Ultra 500W X-finity with the 8-pin, PCIe x2, dual 12V rails. hopefully it will be fine.

i dont know why they put 8
but check out this pic:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ShowImage.asp?Image=13%2D130%2D051%2D02%2Ejpg%2C13%2D130%2D051%2D03%2Ejpg%2C13%2D130%2D051%2D04%2Ejpg%2C13%2D130%2D051%2D05%2Ejpg%2C13%2D130%2D051%2D06%2Ejpg%2C13%2D130%2D051%2D07%2Ejpg%2C13%2D130%2D051%2D08%2Ejpg%2C13%2D130%2D051%2D09%2Ejpg%2C13%2D130%2D051%2D10%2Ejpg%2C13%2D130%2D051%2D11%2Ejpg&CurImage=13%2D130%2D051%2D02%2Ejpg&Description=MSI+975X+Platinum+Socket+T+%28LGA+775%29+Intel+975X+ATX+Intel+Motherboard+%2D+Retail
there is cover on 4 of the pins so they are not used.

What should power supply temperature be?

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