Workflow and settings for best quality .png export

I need to export a vector image to a .png for use on Retina display devices. What is the workflow and settings for exporting that results in the best possible quality .png image?

The workflow I used to produce the previously posted image on a WIndows 7 PC:
File>Export>Set "Save As" type to PNG
Upon pressing the "Save" button a PNG Options window will appear.
Resolution: Screen (72 ppi)
Anti-Aliasing: Type Optimized (Hinting)
I contacted Adobe support and they told me that the only way to export .png is via "Export" or "Save For Web".
"Save For Web" is designed to compress and I wanted to avoid that to ensure retina display quality.
I chose 72 ppi instead of a higher setting (support suggested I use 300 ppi) because Apple retina displays do not recognize ppi above 72.
The Anti-Aliasing setting was my default and I read somewhere that this was the best for getting crisp edges on retina displays (Sorry, I cant recall the source)
My concerns are that the export and anti-aliasing make larger files and I'm not convinced they are noticably better quality than "Save For Web".
Also, it's worth noting that the support was clearly reading from a reference guide. It was not a "real" expert that could explain the best workflow.

Similar Messages

  • Export settings for best quality for pages with letters etc.

    Hi, I am trying to make video of a musical piece, featuring the score of the piece with pages turning following the progression of the music. I made the video in Adobe After Effects CS5 and exported it so it would be lossless. The video itself is a .mov file and looks great when I view it in Quicktime, but when I import it into FCE the quality goes down a bit. I don't know if FCE is handling the clips correctly or if it's just for making it quicker to view. Any suggestions on export settings from FCE for best quality of a video of this nature, so that the notes are clearly readable.
    Thanks in advance
    Ps. It has to be in a format suitable for Youtube.

    Under "Sequence" and in "Settings" and in the tab "Render Control" I have: Frame Rate: 100% Resolution: 100%.
    If that is what you were referring to... but under the tab which is called RT and is located left of the timeline and left of the timecode. There I have checked : Safe RT, (Playback Video Quality) Dynamic, (Playback Frame Rate) High.
    There might be a way to import the clip in better quality (so it doesn't downgrade the quality).
    Was mostly trying to find out with the export but it might have something to do with this.
    Thanks

  • AVCHD - Blu-ray: what settings for best quality?

    Hi Folks,
    I've got a BD-burner and I want to export my edited HD avchd footage to BD with minimal quality loss.
    Can you please advice me on the right settings?
    * should I go for the 'Match Sequence Settings' option in the export menu?
    * or probably select 'MPEG 2 Blu-ray' option for best quality?
    * what is better in terms of quality of the outcome: 'MPEG 2 Blu-ray' vs. 'H.264 Blu-ray'?
    Finally, I have a question related to Adobe Encore: the same footage exported through Adobe Media Encoder in 'MPEG2 Blu-ray' (takes 13 GB), Adobe Encore reports will take only 8GB?!? I'm puzzled here. How come the same footage got exported into files with different length? Is there a way to set the Encore to export in the maximum possible quality? Where can I locate this menu setting?
    Thank you very much!

    Forgot to mention, I'm using CS5 and I shoot in avchd, 30fps,
    1980i

  • Settings for best quality freeze frame export?

    Hi. I've done some reading in the search for this topic here, but I'm finding a lot of how-to's for exporting freeze frame, but not proper settings.
    Using DV NTSC 29.97fps, I know it's far from ideal to get great quality still frames, but, I have a client who was disappointed with her photographer at her wedding and really liked my work and she is willing to pay me to go through and pull off stills from her wedding video.
    I do this for virtually every wedding but I just use basic settings because the still frames are used for not more than dvd menu or perhaps a small image on the back of the jewel case.
    But if she wants to print these then I'm wondering if someone here can offer suggestions on the proper settings to make them not only the best quality, but the proper dimensions.
    Thank you,
    Eric
    (soon-to-be-proud-new-owner-of-a-macpro-!)

    From DV NTSC, your exported still frame will be just 720x480 pixels. Use any image editor to resize that to 720x534 (if it is NOT widescreen) or 864x480 (if it IS widescreen).
    ( Looks horrible doesn't it? You can't get any better quality than that, just because you - or she - wants to.)

  • Best image EXPORT settings for best quality

    What should i have my export settings at when exporting to a jump drive to give to clients for web and printing use???
    When i see my images uploaded on Facebook for example, the qulity looks poor which worries me that when printing the quality will be poor as well. Am i missing something in the setting for exporting? What is the proper way to export for the best quality image? HELP!
    My settings now under Aperture>Presets>Image Export:
    JPG Original size
    300 dpi

    t_hall10 wrote:
    The information provided was helpful, but did not completely answer my question...
    Are there specific settings with-in Aperture I can set for exporting so that clients have the ability to print as wanted and post on the web as wanted whithout losing any major amount of photo quality?
    No, not for one size fits all.
    I do appreciate this may be a frustrating answer, but non-the-less, that's how it is.
    t_hall10 wrote:
    Should I be gving 2 folders of pictures, one for web use and one for printing use? If I were to do that, what should the exporting setting be set for both folders?
    Maybe, it's your choice.
    Let's go through the settings.
    The only real quality setting is for JPG compression. 12 is virtually no (lossless) compression but gives huge file sizes which may breach a websites limits.
    A 16MP images on quality 12 will be about 22MB. 11 brings it down to 8MB and 10 down to 7MB. You'd be very hard pressed to see the difference between a 12 and a 10. But if you want to feel you are giving the best quality without the extreme file size, go for 11.
    The the vast majority of web sites, like facebook, will either resize uploaded images and/or re-compress them. They may also crop them to a different aspect ratio to fit their browser software.
    Many report the best size for upload to facebook, for small images is 960 pixels on the long side. For large images it's 2048. For different websites it may be different. It is discussed on many photography sites and blogs. You will find some promoting the 960 / 2048, and others with their own preferences. Here's a good one which also shows you many ways FB will mess with the images:
    http://havecamerawilltravel.com/photographer/images-photos-facebook-sizes-dimens ions-types
    The safest colour space is sRGB (Mac profile: sRGB IEC61966-2.1) as it will more often be right than wrong. You should preview your images on screen with this profile to get a feel for how it will look and avoid unexpected colour shifts in your files. Ideally your screen should be calibrated so you know what you are giving them is accurate.
    To understand the printing issue, try this exercise:
    If you have a printer installed on your Mac, it probably also installed some printer profiles. In Aperture, look at one of your nicer vibrant images. From the view menu turn on 'Onscreen Proofing' and then from the 'Proofing Profile' sub menu, select one of your printer profiles and look at how the onscreen image changes. Repeat with each of the printing profiles and see how the image changes each time.
    This is only a fraction of the colour shifts that will be occuring after you give your file to someone and they print it on their own uncalibrated system with their uncalibrated printer.
    Many photographers don't offer full size images to their clients. They will usually give them smaller versions for their own use, which may include small size printing.
    They will either do the main printing themself on their own calibrated printer, or work with a print shop, and may have installed calibrated profiles on their system for the shops printing equipment so they can use onscreen proofing to gauge what the pictures will look like when printed on that equipment.
    But if you are just giving a file to someone, you lose all control of how they will print it. Even experienced photographers and computer users can struggle to make the prints match close to what they look like on screen.
    Most often photos will appear too dark, or the colours look wrong, or it lacks sharpness. There are some settings on the export presets for gamma and blackpoint compensation. Gamma will brighten the image for when it's printing too dark, and blackpoint will try to stop the shadows turning black (within the chosen colour space). But as you don't know in advance whether the images are going to print too dark, or the shadows are turning black, you can't really set these for a one-size fits all scenario.
    So there are not many settings to help you here.
    You are actually moving into the realm of defining your product. You could, for example, ask the client which site they intend to publish the photos on, research that site and produce files optimized specifically for that site.
    You also need to decide what size (resolution) files to give them for printing and whether you are happy giving away your full size images.
    These choices will lead you to a number of a different files sizes as 'your product', all should be in sRGB colour space, and all with quality 10 or 11. For any client's who know how to make use of a wider clour space like Adobe RGB for printing, they will probably ask you up front to supply the print versions as such.
    Next, for each size and usage, you now need to sharpen these images.
    This is because sharpeing is best applied to images that have been resized to their intended output size and should be sharpened in accordance with how they will be viewed. Images displayed on computer screen generally need less sharpening than those that will be printed. Depening on the printer, the images may need some oversharpening in the file, in order to appear crisp and sharp in the print. As you won't be controlling the printing process you should probably avoid oversharpening. The bottom line is, if people are taking on the task of their own printing, they'll need to figure out what they are doing to get good results, or use a commercial printer.
    Andy

  • Settings for best quality DVD

    Hi,
    I'm hoping someone can help me to get the best quality DVD for home movies.
    I have been editing and putting the movies to DVD for a number of years and the quality has been excellent. but over the last year something has changed and the quality of the final DVD is quite poor (pixalated)
    I have tested different settings in both imovie HD and idvd but it hasn't made any difference so far.
    I am using the following:
    Sony HDR-HC9 handycam (Recording in HDV1080i)
    imovie HD 6.0.3
    iDVD 7.1
    Thanks for any insight you can give me!

    Hi
    As written - dust on lens - first thought
    If You made a lot of DVDs in a row (>3 at a time) then there is a risk to burn out/harm the laser.
    my list on DVD Quality - read or keep. It's long !
    *DVD quality*
    1. iDVD 08 & 09 has three levels of qualities.
    iDVD 6 has the two last ones
    • Professional Quality *(movies + menus up to 120 min.)* - BEST
    • Best Performances *(movies + menus less than 60 min.)* - High quality on final DVD
    • High Quality (in iDVD08 or 09) / Best Quality (in iDVD6) *(movies + menus up to 120 min.)* - slightly lower quality than above
    2.Video from
    • FCE/P - Export out as full quality QuickTime.mov (not selfcontaining, no conversion)
    • iMovie x-6 - Don't use ”Share/Export to iDVD” = destructive even to movie project and especially so
    when the movie includes photos. Instead just drop or import the iMovie movie project icon (with a Star on it) into iDVD theme window.
    • iMovie’08 not meant to go to iDVD. Go via Media Browser or rather use iMovie HD 6 from start.
    3. I use Roxio Toast™ to make an as slow burn as possibly eg x1 (in iDVD’08 or 09 this can also be set)
    This can also be done with Apple’s Disk Utilities application.
    4. There has to be about or more than 25Gb free space on internal (start-up) hard disk. iDVD can't
    use an external one as scratch disk (if it is not start-up disc).
    5. I use Verbatim ( also recommended by many - Taiyo Yuden DVDs - I can’t get hold of it to test )
    6. I use DVD-R (no +R or +/-RW)
    7. Keep NTSC to NTSC - or - PAL to PAL when going from iMovie to iDVD
    8. Don’t burn more than three DVD at a time - but let the laser cool off for a while befor next batch.
    iDVD quality also depends on.
    • DVD is a standard in it self. It is Standard Definition Quality = Same as on old CRT-TV sets and can not
    deliver anything better that this.
    HD-DVD was a shortlived standard and it was only a few Toshiba DVD-players that could playback.
    These DVDs could be made in DVD-Studio Pro. But they don’t playback on any other standard DVD-layer.
    *Blu-Ray / BD* can be coded onto DVDs but limited in time to - about 20-30 minutes and then need
    _ Roxio Toast™ 10 Pro incl BD-component
    _ BD disks and burner if full length movies are to be stored
    _ BD-Player or PlayStation3 - to be able to plyback
    The BD-encoded DVDs can be playbacked IF Mac also have Roxio DVD-player tool. Not on any standard Mac or DVD-player
    Full BD-disks needs a BD-player (in Mac) as they need blue-laser to be read. No red-laser can do this.
    • HOW much free space is there on Your internal (start-up) hard disk. Go for approx 25Gb.
    less than 5Gb and Your result will most probably not play.
    • How it was recorded - Tripod vs Handheld Camera. A stable picture will give a much higher quality
    • Audio is most often more critical than picture. Bad audio and with dropouts usually results in a non-viewed movie.
    • Use of Video-editor. iMovie’08 or 09 or 11 are not the tools for DVD-production. They discard every second line resulting in a close to VHS-tape quality.
    iMovie 1 to HD6 and FinalCut any version delivers same quality as Camera recorde in = 100% to iDVD
    • What kind of movie project You drop into it. MPEG4 seems to be a bad choice.
    other strange formats are .avi, .wmv, .flash etc. Convert to streamingDV first
    Also audio formats matters. I use only .aiff or from miniDV tape Camera 16-bit
    strange formats often problematic are .avi, .wmv, audio from iTunes, .mp3 etc
    Convert to .aiff first and use this in movie project
    • What kind of standard - NTSC movie and NTSC DVD or PAL to PAL - no mix.
    (If You need to change to do a NTSC DVD from PAL material let JESDeinterlacer3.2.2 do the conversion)
    (Dropping a PAL movie into a NTSC iDVD project
    (US) NTSC DVDs most often are playable in EU
    (EU) PAL DVDs most often needs to be converted to play in US
    UNLESS. They are plabacked by a Mac - then You need not to care
    • What kind of DVDs You are using. I use Verbatim DVD-R (this brand AND no +R or +/-RW)
    • How You encode and burn it. Two settings prior iDVD’08 or 09
    Pro Quality (only in iDVD 08 & 09)
    Best / High Quality (not always - most often not)
    Best / High Performances (most often my choise before Pro Quality)
    1. go to iDVD pref. menu and select tab far right and set burn speed to x1 (less errors = plays better) - only in iDVD 08 & 09
    (x4 by some and may be even better)
    2. Project info. Select Professional Encoding - only in iDVD 08 & 09.
    Region codes.
    iDVD - only burn Region = 0 - meaning - DVDs are playable everywhere
    DVD Studio pro can set Region codes.
    1 = US
    2 = EU
    *unclemano wrote*
    What it turned out to be was the "quality" settings in iDVD. The total clip time was NOT over 2 hours or 4.7GB, yet iDVD created massive visual artifacts on the "professional quality" setting.
    I switched the settings to "high quality" which solved the problem. According iDVD help, "high quality" determines the best bit rate for the clips you have.
    I have NEVER seen iDVD do this before, especially when I was under the 2 hour and 4.7GB limits.
    For anyone else, there seem to be 2 places in iDVD to set quality settings, the first is under "preferences" and the second under "project info." They do NOT seem to be linked (i.e. if you change one, the other is NOT changed). take care, Mario
    TO GET IT TO WORK SLIGHTLY FASTER
    • Minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up hard disk
    • No other programs running in BackGround eg EnergySaver
    • Don’t let HD spinn down or be turned off (in EnergySave)
    • Move hard disks that are not to be used to Trash - To be disconnected/turned off
    • Goto Spotlight and set the rest of them under Integrity (not to be scanned)
    • Set screensaver to a folder without any photo - then make an active corner (up right for me) and set
    pointer to this - turns on screen saver - to show that it has nothing to show
    Yours Bengt W

  • Export Settings for best quality, smaller file size?

    I have a one hour movie I made of a concert and exported it using Share --> Media Browser --> 720p.  It came out great quality but it's 4.4gb's. 
    I need to figure out how to get that down to about 1GB while keeping 720p.  HD movies in iTunes are two plus hours and only 3gb's from what I've seen.  How can I use the same compression settings?  There has to be a way to compress it a little more, while staying in 720p right?
    What am I missing? TIA!

    Compression quality really depends on the type of video that you are trying to compress.  If the video is full of motion and noise, it will be very hard to reduce the file size through compression without massive loss.  Compression is a trade-off.  If you reduce the fame size to 480p, you may increase the quality of the video while reducing the file size versus trying to do the same thing at 720p.

  • Whcih codec/settings for best quality, smallest file size?

    Hi,
    This is probably a really frequently asked question, and I apologise for that.
    I've been  searching for an answer and the only information I can hastily find is at last a year old, some stuff dating from 2008
    Forgive me - even though I'm studying media, I have no idea about codecs or the best ratio to use or anything.
    Basically, I need some advice over which settings to use on my video. The work needs to be a really high quality, as it will be displayed on a projection screen for an exhibition, but I'm sending it over the internet, so I need a compromise between file size and quality.
    One of my tutors has told me that I should always be using the ProRes 422 codec, but when I use that, and export the video in 1080p, it comes out at 3.5GB which is just ridiculous.
    It has to be sent off ASAP, as the exhibition is on the 21st.
    If anyone has any advice to me, that would be amazing.
    Thank you in advance.

    Hi, thank you so much for your reply.
    It's a college project, and the person we were working with is a Doctor in sound. We had to record environmental sounds and create soundscapes for them. As media students though, we were told to make animations, or videos to accompany them. My video is just some of my photography, with some titles, and an AIF music file. Sound is his thing - he wouldn't know what settings I should use.
    The project is in 1080p 25 frame. I asked my one of my tutors, and he told me I was right in exporting it as ProRes 422. I used the Adobe Media Encoder and the youtube setting, which has taken a copy of the file down to 177.5MB and I'm burning a copy of the 3.5GB one on to disk in hopes I can get it there somehow.
    It's all a bit vague to be honest. My friend's project is 1080p. I'm pretty sure it's the standard size we use for all our projects. The projectors should be set up to handle it.

  • Tips for best quality?

    I've got a full res SD quicktime movie that I want to put onto DVD....how can I get the best quality out of this video on DVD through compressor....should I just choose best quality with a 2 pass vbr?

    Does anyone have any tips for best quality imovie3 exports but keeping file.
    Here is a quick Apple tutorial introduction that may be of some help:
    http://www.apple.com/quicktime/tutorials/h264.html
    I personally use the QVGA (AKA "Internet Content") H.264 settings for everything from family site clips to iPod compatible files. 400 kb with stereo 128kb audio should produce a good quality file at 29.97/30 fps which is on the order of 4 MBs per minute of content and are suitible for DSL/Cable QuickStart viewing. You can, of course further reduce file size by decreasing data rates, frame rates, target display size, etc. However, to my mind, the quality suffers and becomes unacceptable for my purposes. QT Kirk has other tricks such as further halving the dimensions and then doubling the playback display. This would get you down to the approximately 1 MB per minute mark or sub 1 MB rage when couple with reduced data/frame rates. Basically, you are only limited by your own idea as to the minimum level of acceptable quality.

  • What format to import AVCHD for best quality and how to export?

    Hi
    My boss has got himself a panasonic HDC camcorder of some sort that is formatting the video in AVCHD.
    Basically he was using adobe premiere pro from around 2003 on an pc running xp and loved it. My I.T. director persuaded him to buy an iMac and Final Cut Pro 7. As we stand now he states he hates macs because he can't figure out how to get his home movies off his camcorder and onto a dvd without them looking blurry and fuzzy.
    Can anyone advise what format we should be importing the AVCHD files into final cut pro for best video quality and how we should be exporting the final movie for best quality to go onto dvd?
    I will also note that he is using toast 10 titanium to burn his movies to dvd.
    Also he is not looking to burn to blu-ray as none of his familiy have blu-ray players. He just wants his HD footage off camera and onto a dvd with the best quality picture he can get. Also his movies are approx 2 hours long and he has just ordered some Dual Layer DVDs
    Thanks
    Kieran

    I take it you mean Pro Res 422 from the AVCHD plugin options? And not going for any of the other 422's with bits in brackets?
    Sorry for being dumb in this area but my boss and i are both pretty new to FCP
    How do i ensure i edit in a pro res sequence?
    Export straight to quicktime no quicktime compression or anything?
    Thanks for your help
    Kieran

  • Exporting - Option for Best Quality?

    Okay. Just upgraded to QT Pro. What "export" option produces the best quality video?
    Also, should QT Pro be able to open an WMV file? I've been having to use Flip4Mac, but is water marks everything when I try to do the conversion to *.mov format.
    Thanks for any info and insight.

    The best quality video will always be lossless or uncompressed. The reality about compression is that it's always a trade off between image quality and data size and as Colin pointed out depends a lot on what you use it for.
    While you're working on a piece of video, it's always best to keep it as uncompressed as possible. Compressing footage and then compressing it again leads to a much reduced quality, something like generational loss when recording from tape to tape.
    As a good balance between data size and quality in Quicktime, I'd recommend working at the full pixel dimensions and frame rate that you captured and using Apple's MJPEGA codec at full quality.
    You might also think about AVI file compressed with DV codec - they won't be as high quality, but will have the advantage of being readable on Macs as well as PCs which don't have Quicktime installed.

  • What's the best ink and paper for hp deskjet f4140 for best quality photo prints

    what's the best ink and paper for hp deskjet f4140 for best quality photo prints

    Hi,
    For inks, no choice but for papers please use the following shop (or use information to buy elsewhere):
       http://www.shopping.hp.com/en_US/home-office/-/pro​ducts/-/-/CB587A?HP-Deskjet-F4140-All-in-One&Targe​...
    Regards.
    BH
    **Click the KUDOS thumb up on the left to say 'Thanks'**
    Make it easier for other people to find solutions by marking a Reply 'Accept as Solution' if it solves your problem.

  • Setting for best quality in compressor

    Hi.
    I'm running FCP 5.1  and Compressor 2.3.1.  For best quality videos on youtube I've heard it's a good idea to max out the free space they make available to you.  What are the best settings I should use in Compressor for maximum quality uploads to youtube?  Also what's a good setting for good quality video with a smaller file size?  Also I should note most of my videos uploaded are of short duration 1 minute to 5 minutes.  I've been using the settings DVNTSC and it's okay but maybe there's something better you can recommend?  Also I tend to use Toast to burn DVD's.  What's a good setting for best quality dvd's?
    thank you!  

    For Youtube encoding, read these: http://www.kenstone.net/fcp_homepage/you_tube_redux_gary.html and http://www.kenstone.net/fcp_homepage/you_tube_hd_gary.html
    Keep in mind that the more compressed the file is (smaller file size), the lessor quality.
    As for DVD compression, I've always found Toast's encoder to create poorer quality DVDs than Compressor or DVD Studio Pro.  The best method would be to export a self-contained or reference movie from FCP (Do NOT use QuickTime Conversion), then import that file into Compressor.  Use the DVD preset in Compressor that best matches your movie's duration.  You can duplicate and adjust presets as needed for your particular movie.  Compressor will create the needed MPEG-2 video file (.m2v) and Dolby Digital audio file (.ac3).  Import those two files into DVD Studio Pro for authoring and burning.
    -DH

  • I would like to be able to size images by kilobytes instead of pixels--is this possible?  I use I-Contact which requires a maximum of 70kb per image.  For best quality I want to make the images as close to 70 as possible.  Currently I choose a size of 300

    I would like to be able to size images by kilobytes instead of pixels--is this possible?  I use I-Contact which requires a maximum of 70kb per image.  For best quality I want to make the images as close to 70 as possible.  Currently I choose a size of 300 pixels on the shortest side but sometimes this gives me an image of slightly greater than 70kb and sometimes the image is just 30-40kb.  Is there a way to be more precise in reaching but not exceeding 70 kb?

    That is not a feature of iPhoto - suggest to Apple - iPhoto Menu ==> provide iPhoto feedback.
    You can opnly resize using the available options and file size is not one of them
    LN

  • ITunes 11 MP3/320  -  Joint or normal stereo for best quality ? Thanks!

    iTunes 11   encoding MP3 @ 320  -    Joint or normal stereo for best quality ?    Thanks!

    OK, I digged a bit deeper.......
    Apparently, the common LAME MP3 encoder uses JOINT mode throughout bitrates ...... ( have a look at the wikipedia pages for MP3/joint stereo) 
    This leads to a) smaller files and/or  b) gives or frees up "bandwidth for signal encoding when/if necessary.
    The iTunes encoders algorithms are unknown, thus we need Apple to help with this issue.
    If   "normal"  = separate stereo, i.e. separate encoding of the left and right audio channel, then there might be rather a quality loss despite high bitrates and large files, because that would mean using 160kbps/channel only , as MP3s are limited to 320.
    Until Apple does not specify and explain this in detail, I myself will no longer use iTunes for encoding.
    (  @keeferaf, many thanks, in "userdefined-MP3-encoding" you can select those  values  )

Maybe you are looking for

  • Error in deploying ejb in winXP

    Hello, I am not able to deploy any ejb application using weblogic7 in winxp,which i did suceefully in win2000 system.Does xp support weblogic. .I am getting the following errors. D:\stateless>java weblogic.ejbc slsb.jar Exception in thread "main" jav

  • Mail Rules Question

    I have a lot of email on my Gmail account. A semi significant portion of them are status updates, such as Facebook, Pownce, Netflix, and other site updates. In the past when I used POP, it wasn't such a big deal to keep these emails because Gmail off

  • Converting to PDF crashes Word

    I'm using Acrobat Pro 9 and Word 2007. I have a document of approximately 160 pages with a Table of Contents, Figures, Tables, and lots of text. Every time I try to convert it to PDF, Word crashes. I have other similar documents that convert just fin

  • Visited Links - Override all link colors

    Hi, I'm using RH8 in WebHelp and IE.  I read all the former postings regarding people having the same problem and some mentioned a fix in a .css but the .css wasn't available with the posting of March 25, 2008. My visited link color seems to override

  • AS2 protocol

    Hi, For the 3rd party system to support AS2 what all are the pre-requisites for it?What all the softwares 3rd party system should have to support AS2 protocol? In XI we are using See Burger AS2 adapter. Best Regards, Harleen Kaur Chadha