Working Colour Space and sRGB

Only partially related to CR, I'm still unclear about using different colour spaces in my workflow, as a semi-pro photographer producing images for the internet, projector, and for home printing.
I found this topic in the archive:
Klaas Visser, "ProPhoto vs sRGB" #1, 15 Nov 2006 4:36 pm
and was still left puzzled.
I read Bruce/Jeff's book a year ago, and took in the recommendation to use ProPhotoRGB as the target colour space, but am still not clear WHY, and if it is relevant to a workflow which results in a reduced sRGB jpeg, or an A3/A4-sized print on a SOHO 6-colour injet printer. Does CR work best in ProPhoto?
Recent conversations have led me to believe that there is little point starting with a ProPhoto colour space if the end medium uses a much smaller gamut, like a calibrated monitor, projector, or domestic inkjet printer. Not only that, but the colour space conversion process will actually degrade the image unnecessarily. I'm told that it's better to start with the final colour space and avoid conversions. One friend went to great lengths to explain to me that a larger gamut with the same bit depth had "bigger gaps" between colours and therefore less accurate colour resolution.
Well, the theory in both camps seems sound, so I'm left in confusion. I could spend many hours (and money) on doing test conversions and prints, and examine fine details with a large magnifying glass, but I was hoping: could somebody put me out of my misery with a logical explanation of best practices?

> Recent conversations have led me to believe that there is little point starting with a ProPhoto colour space if the end medium uses a much smaller gamut ...
You don't sound that confused -- you simply need to decide on what your target color space (CS) gamut should be. You're correct in noting that color gamut conversions are somewhat destrustive, but there nothing wrong with minimizing them, and restricting them for going from large to small gamuts only.
A large CS gamut (PpRGB) is capable of all the color from your camera (depending on your camera), but like your friend implies most probably sould be editted in highbit depth (16bits). This CS is useful for archiving your images, or for aggressive tonal adjustments. (... although your images are 'really' archived as raw data, and ACR "undestructively" modified tonal values before exporting to Photoshop).
I find little utility in exporting to small CS gamuts (eg, sRGB), unless the image is intended for a small gamut (monitors in general - eg, web browser presentations, and/or printers that can only relate to sRGB).
In between are intermediate CS gamuts (eg, AdobeRGB), which are quite capable of small tonal adjustments with 8bit depth, for which the target gamuts are usually better printer technologies.
my CA$0.02 :)

Similar Messages

Hebrew OCR works but spaces and in english - Possible bug

Hello all,
I'm using Acrobat Extended Pro for scanning hebrew content. The OCR features works very good, but when copying the text to Microsoft Word (2003) the spaces (not the words) remain in english. I mean, as Word knows the language of each charactar, it marks the words as hebrew and the spaces as english.
This causes Word to invert the word order in the sentences.
Of course copying first to notepad and then to Word easily solves the problem
Hope it helps
Nitay

Just a thought —
Perhaps the Middle Eastern version of Acrobat would deal with spaces appropriately.
Regardless, while using what is currently installed; try export of PDF page content to a text file.
Open the text file with MS Word. It the result is similar to the outcome of the copy-paste to notepad it might be a little simpler work flow.
Be well...

Program Help, working with spaces and only letters

I'm writing a program that takes an input string and gets the length and/or gets the number of vowels and consonants in the string. I've gotten it working except for consideration of spaces (which are allowed) and error checking for input other than letters. Here is what I've got so far. ANY suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank You
import java.io.*;
import javax.swing.*;
import java.awt.*;
import java.awt.event.*;
import java.util.*;
public class LetterStringManip extends JFrame
{//declaring variables
     private JLabel stringOfLettersL, lengthL, lengthRL, vowelsL, vowelsRL, consonantsL, consonantsRL;
       private JTextField stringOfLettersTF;
       private JButton lengthB,vowelB, quitB;
       private LengthButtonHandler lbHandler;
       private VowelButtonHandler vbHandler;
       private QuitButtonHandler qbHandler;
       private static final int WIDTH = 750;
       private static final int HEIGHT = 150;
       public LetterStringManip()
       {// setting up GUI window with buttons
           stringOfLettersL = new JLabel("Enter a String of Letters", SwingConstants.CENTER);
               lengthL = new JLabel("Length of String: ", SwingConstants.CENTER);
               lengthRL = new JLabel("", SwingConstants.LEFT);
               vowelsL = new JLabel("Number of Vowels: ", SwingConstants.CENTER);
               vowelsRL = new JLabel("", SwingConstants.LEFT);
               consonantsL = new JLabel("Number of Consonats: ", SwingConstants.CENTER);
               consonantsRL = new JLabel("", SwingConstants.LEFT);
               stringOfLettersTF = new JTextField(15);
               lengthB = new JButton("Length");
               lbHandler = new LengthButtonHandler();
               lengthB.addActionListener(lbHandler);
               vowelB = new JButton("Vowels");
               vbHandler = new VowelButtonHandler();
               vowelB.addActionListener(vbHandler);
               quitB = new JButton("Quit");
               qbHandler = new QuitButtonHandler();
               quitB.addActionListener(qbHandler);
               setTitle("String Of Letters");//Window title
               Container pane = getContentPane();
               pane.setLayout(new GridLayout(3,4)); //Window layout
               pane.add(stringOfLettersL);
               pane.add(stringOfLettersTF);
               pane.add(lengthL);
               pane.add(lengthRL);
               pane.add(vowelsL);
               pane.add(vowelsRL);
               pane.add(consonantsL);
               pane.add(consonantsRL);
               pane.add(lengthB);
               pane.add(vowelB);
               pane.add(quitB);
               setSize(WIDTH, HEIGHT);
               setVisible(true);
               setDefaultCloseOperation(EXIT_ON_CLOSE);
       }//closes public LetterStringManip()
       private class LengthButtonHandler implements ActionListener
           public void actionPerformed(ActionEvent e)//Length Button is clicked, getLength() method is performed
                  getLength();
               }//closes public void actionPerformed(ActionEvent e)
       }//closes private class LengthButtonHandler implements ActionListener
       private class VowelButtonHandler implements ActionListener
           public void actionPerformed(ActionEvent e)//Vowels Button is clicked, getVowels() method is performed
                  getVowels();
               }//closes public void actionPerformed(ActionEvent e)
       }//closes private class VowelButtonHandler implements ActionListener
       private class QuitButtonHandler implements ActionListener//Quit Buttton is pressed
           public void actionPerformed(ActionEvent e)
                   System.exit(0);
               }//closes public void actionPerformed(ActionEvent e)
       }//closes private class QuitButtonHandler implements ActionListener
                 public void getLength()//gets the length of the string
                   String letString = (stringOfLettersTF.getText());
                   String lengthString;
             int length;
                     length = letString.length();
                     lengthString = Integer.toString(length);
                     lengthRL.setText(lengthString);
                }//closes public void getLength()
                 public void getVowels()//gets the number of vowels in the string
             String letString = (stringOfLettersTF.getText());
                   String vowString;
                     String conString;
             int countVow = 0;
                     int countCon = 0;
                     int i;
                     int length = letString.length();
                     char[] letter = new char[length];
             for (i = 0; i < letString.length(); i++)
                 letter[i] = letString.charAt(i);
                 if (letter=='a' || letter[i]=='e' || letter[i]=='i' || letter[i]=='o' || letter[i]=='u')
countVow++;
                    }//closes for
                    countCon = letString.length() - countVow;
vowString = Integer.toString(countVow);
                    conString = Integer.toString(countCon);
                    vowelsRL.setText(vowString);
                    consonantsRL.setText(conString);
               }//closes public void getVowels()
     public static void main(String[] args)
     LetterStringManip stringObject = new LetterStringManip();
     }// closes public static void main(String[] args)
}//closes public class LetterStringManip extends JFrame

OK, per the instructions above: I will re-post my code that I have now. I have dealt with the space not being counted now, I only need to figure out how to validate my input so that only letters are allowed. If anyone has any suggestions, or can help me out in any way, it'd be great. The suggestions with creating word and sentence objects is still a little beyond what we have gone over thus far in my Java course, I feel like I can almost grasp it to code it, but end up getting really confused. anyways, hear is my 'crude' code so far:
                 public void getLength()
                   String letString = (stringOfLettersTF.getText());
                   String lengthString;
                      int finalLength;
                      int countSpace = 0;
                            int length = letString.length();
                   char[] letter = new char[length];
                    int i;
                             for (i = 0; i < letString.length(); i++)
                                letter[i] = letString.charAt(i);
                                if (letter==' ')
countSpace++;
          finalLength = length - countSpace;
               lengthString = Integer.toString(finalLength);
               lengthRL.setText(lengthString);
               public void getVowels()
String letString = (stringOfLettersTF.getText());
               String vowString;
               String conString;
int countVow = 0;
               int countCon = 0;
               int countSpace = 0;
               int i;
               int length = letString.length();
               char[] letter = new char[length];
for (i = 0; i < letString.length(); i++)
letter[i] = letString.charAt(i);
if (letter[i]=='a' || letter[i]=='e' || letter[i]=='i' || letter[i]=='o' || letter[i]=='u')
countVow++;
               if (letter[i]==' ')
countSpace++;
               countCon = (letString.length() - countVow) - countSpace;
vowString = Integer.toString(countVow);
               conString = Integer.toString(countCon);
               vowelsRL.setText(vowString);
               consonantsRL.setText(conString);

Colour colour profiles and JPEG compression mismatch

In preparing images for iBooks I have noticed bizarre behaviours and a number of problems with matching colours.
For example, if a JPEG image all one colour is placed in a gallery widget over a text box, and then the background colour of the textbox is set to the colour of the image by sampling the colour in the image using the colour picker, when downloaded to the iPad the colours will not match (although they appear to in iBooks Author). I presume this must be a bug with the encoding of the JPEG? Or is it a conversion issue between different colour profiles used for the solid colours in iBooks and the sRGB colours that Apple advises using for images?
I have also noticed that if you download a book to an iPad the colour matching between solids and image colours changes radically depending on what monitor you have the computer running iBooks Author plugged into (ie depending on the monitor profile in use). What colour profile does iBooks author use for solids and what for images and why are they different? Is it conversing the solids but not the images, or vice versa, and between which colour spaces? What is the working colour space of iBooks Author? Does it differ depending on the monitor profile? If so, why does converting images to the monitor profile still not result in them matching the solids used in iBooks Author?
In short, does anyone have a clue what is going on with the colour profiles and colour matching in iBooks Author and iBooks on the iPad? They certainly display the most perplexing behaviour I have ever come across.
Giles Hudson

Although you say there is no concept of a colour profile in iOS, the problem is that iBooks Author does recognize profiles, and appears to take them into consideration when downloading images to books on the iPad. For example, an image tagged with an sRGB profile placed in iBooks Author will appear differently from an identical image tagged with an Adobe RGB profile. The problem is, it is not at all clear what conversion is going on, especially when using a monitor with a different colour profile appears to cause radically different behaviour in the conversion. Is it being converted to "Device RGB" that the colour picker apepars to use? What is this Device RGB? The monitor RGB or the iPad RGB?
I understand that iOS supports RGB and CMYK. However, the important question is, which working space does iBooks Author use? sRGB, GenericRGB, Device RGB (whatever that is), Apple RGB, Adobe RGB, the monitor RGB? Without knowing this it is difficult to match solid colours to colours in images (and even arguably impossible due to the JPEG encoding problem I mentioned above).
All this vagueness in colour handling with OSX and iOS makes life very difficult, especially, as you suggest, when things have the potential to change at any minute, potentially wrecking months of painstaking work that has been put into designing books in iBooks Author.

RGB CMYK PDF EXPORT.(colour conversion) Keeping your colours vibrant and your blacks black.

Ive been tearing my hair out for the best part of 14 hours trying to figure out how to keep the closest possible conversion for working with images(rgb in photoshop) right the way through a work flow until exporting to print (having used the image in Indesign). Here is the process I have been trying to get right.
1) working with RGB photo images in photoshop and converting them to CMYK (whilst holding on to as much colour as poss)
2) Importing them to Indesign and retaining the correct colours while working with them)
3) Exporting to high quality print and having all your colours stay 100% the same as you saw them within indesign.
I believe I have the solution so I posted my settings below to see if its the best way of doing things and to help others who might be having the same problems.
The problem
The problem is that there are many different colour models/profiles (both in RGB and CMYK) and each program can effect how the next one handles and stores colour. It can become frustrating knowing where to go in order to set the settings correctly as the combination of things to consider can make it confusing.
I understand many other people have similar problems and finding RGB blacks come out as grey. CMYK spaces get converted from one type to another either from one program to the next or even as things move around one program (causing all sorts of wonderful,colour errors) Plus you have imported colour profiles, working colour profiles and export profiles. All of which can interact and effect each other) So getting it all consistent is key other wise colours change and get washed out.   Especially vibrant colours like greens and blues. they fade etc.
Through sheer trial and error and perciverance I found a combination of settings that worked well for me.
Since I am not an expert I wanted to post up my settings to:
1) see if this is the best way of doing things.
2) Other people may find them useful if they had the same problems I had,
The Solution
In photoshop
Save the photoshop image in CMYK by selecting:
Edit > Convert to prfile.
(in destination space)
select: Euroscale Coated v2   (I think this holds the colours the truest of all CMYK colour formats.)
(in conversion options)
- Engine: Adobe ACE
- Intent: Perceptual.
- Check Use black point Compensation.
(leave all else unchecked)
Save the image ready to place in indesign (place rather than copy and paste.).
In Indesign
edit > colour settings   (make sure you click on the advanced tick box to open more options)
- Working space: =
- RGB: sRGB IEC....
- CMYK Euroscale coated v2
- RGB & CMYK convert to working space.
- Engine Adobe ACE
- Perceptual
- Use black point compensation
edit > Assign profiles
- RGB profile. > Assign current workspace: sRGB IE
- CMYK > Assign current work space Euroscale Coated V2
- Solid colour intent : preceptual
- Default image intent
- After blending intent: Perceptual.
edit > convert to profile. (use similar as above).
edit > Preferences > Apprearance of black
- on screen / export : Display all blacks as enriched black
- Priniting and export : Display all blacks as enriched black
Overprint: (not checked)
------ when exporting to PDF ----------
File > Export
in GENERAL TAB
- Adobe PDF preset: High quality print.
- Standard (drop down menu): PDF/X-42008
- Compatability: Acrobat 5 PDF1:4
in OUTPUT
- COlour conversion: Convert to destination
- Destination: Working CMYK Euroscale Coated v2
in PDF/X
- Output intent profile name: Working CMYK - Euroscale Coated v2
also:
If you are having problems with fill blacks not coming out as proper black then use registration instead of black from the swatch panel.
The above may seem either obvious to most of you or possibly not the best way of doing things but since the results worked for me and I found them tough to arrive at, it may be of use to others hence my post.
I would like your feedback on this process, have I done something wrong / could do better? If so please let me know. I am keen to improve.

I would copy and paste into InDesign forum. Text should stay 100% black. Any other black (like solid boxes or thick lines), I usually use a rich black swatch I created at 40/40/40/100. Looks 10 times better than just 100% black.

Help with colour profiles and wide gamut monitor

Hi there,
I know this issue must crop up a lot due to its confusing nature but I would really appreciate it if someone could explain what settings I should be using in Photoshop to get accurate colours. I had a look around and couldn't find any other discussions that answered this exactly.
My set up is a Dell 2408WFP monitor which is wide-gamut. I have calibrated this using a huey Pro calibrator (therefore have an accurate system colour profile). My photos are in Canon sRGB space, set by Digital Photo Professional (obviously easily changed if need be).
What I would like is to be able to preview what my photos will look like on a standard sRGB display. When I open a photo in Photoshop with all the settings on their default it looks extremely washed out, very low contrast and saturation. This is nothing like what the photos look like outside of Photoshop, and also not what the photos look like on other (normal gamut) displays. I have tried using the "proof colours" settings. When I have "proof setup" set to Internet Standard sRGB the colours look dreadful, oranges become blood-red, definitely not what I am getting when I view the image on a standard monitor. If I have it set to Monitor RGB then I get colours that look like my monitor outside of Photoshop -- this is the closest out of the three to the result I am actually getting on standard gamut displays. However I know it is not accurate because I know my monitor is wide gamut and therefore more has more contrast (and this is the case).
So what combination of photo colour space, proof colour space, and proof colours settings should I be using? My main priority is just the Joe Average using his TN panel monitor on facebook, I accept that on my monitor they will look slightly different. Settings for print don't concern me at the moment.
Thanks for the help. To anyone who will suggest that I read up on colour profiles... I have, and I understand them to an extent, but there are so many variables here that I am getting lost (monitor profile, photo profile, photoshop settings, DPP settings, faststone viewer's settings, browser's lack of awareness...)
Andrew

function(){return A.apply(null,[this].concat($A(arguments)))}
thekrimsonchin wrote:
I know this issue must crop up a lot due to its confusing nature
You have no idea.
What I'm reading is that you want Photoshop, with its color management enabled, to display your sRGB photos as they would be seen on a true sRGB monitor - i.e., accurately.
Something to always keep in mind, when everything's set right and working properly: Your sRGB image displayed on your wide gamut monitor without color management (e.g., by Internet Explorer) will look bolder and brighter (more color-saturated) than the same image displayed in Photoshop with color-management. There is no getting around this, because the sRGB profile is not equivalent to the monitor profile. Do not expect them to look the same.
It's hard, without being there and seeing what you're seeing, to judge whether your sRGB images are undersaturated compared to what's seen on other monitors. I do know, as one with sRGB monitors myself, that images can look quite vibrant and alive in the sRGB color space.
What we can't know is whether your judgment that your color-managed sRGB images are undersaturated is correct in an absolute sense, or whether you're just feeling the difference between seeing them on your monitor in non-color-managed apps and Photoshop.
Photoshop normally does its color management like this: It combines the information from the color profile in your document with the color profile of the monitor, which it retrieves from a standard place in Windows, and creates a transform used to display the colors.
To have it do this you would NOT want the Proof Colors setting enabled. It is the default behavior.
-Noel
P.S., I don't recall whether DPP is color-managed, but you might consider using Photoshop's raw converter, which definitely shows color-managed output, per the settings I described above.
P.P.S., Your calibrator/profiler should have put the monitor profile in the proper place and set all the proper stuff up in Windows. Is it specifically listed as compatible with the version of Windows you're running?

Changing the colour space on a jpeg image for better quality when uploading to a website

When uploading my images to my website the quality and colour of the photographs aren't the same. They lose quality etc. I was told to change the colour space to sRGB or something to make it better. No idea how this works and I'm now not sure what settings to have photoshop on, I don't want to edit my images and then for them to be edited wrongly.
Really need some help, much appreciated.

File > Save for Web. Use the 4-up panel to choose the best quality image with the smallest file size to save on bandwidth. You can test with sRGB enabled. Click on screenshot.
Nancy O.

ICC working color space for the System?

(I posted this in another area but I did not get any replies, so I'm trying here)
Hey, any color management pros out there...
What is the ICC color space of the OS itself? Is it the calibrated monitor profile I'm using?
For example, let's say I'm working in an app. that doesn't use any color management. By default is that color space the app is using by default the ICC profile of the calibrated monitor profile?
I'm specifically wondering in regards to rendering in 3d applications, such as, Lightwave, Strata3d, etc. These apps. don't save ICC profiles with the final rendered files. Are these files essentially in the Monitor space then? This is my guess, and has proven to be so in my tests, but I want to hear what other people think/know...
thanks!
Jeff

What is the ICC color space of the OS itself? Is it
the calibrated monitor profile I'm using?
As Ned said, the OS doesn't have an ICC profile. Profiles describe the properties of image input or output devices. They tell which colour an output device will display when sent a certain RGB value, or which RGB value an input device will return when it sees a certain colour.
Colour space and profile are basically synonymous, a colour space is the range of colours a device can produce or see, as described by its ICC profile.
For example, let's say I'm working in an app. that
doesn't use any color management. By default is that
color space the app is using by default the ICC
profile of the calibrated monitor profile?
No, if the app doesn't use colour management it is oblivious to colour profiles. It will simply throw the RGB values at the output device as they are.
I'm specifically wondering in regards to rendering in
3d applications, such as, Lightwave, Strata3d, etc.
Don't know these two, so can't comment.
These apps. don't save ICC profiles with the final
rendered files. Are these files essentially in the
Monitor space then?
Strictly speaking, no. You will get whatever the monitor or printer make of the RGB values. However, most apps produce/expect RGB values that look reasonably correct on sRGB monitors, for historical reasons. Hence, even on systems without colour management (or when using apps that aren't CM aware) you can calibrate your monitor to mimick sRGB behaviour (using the on-screen menu) and get reasonable results. Most good CRT monitors come pretty close to sRGB out of the box.
Cheers
Steffen.

Pixma Pro 100 Colour Space Questions

Hi
I Have a few questions related to Printing from lightroom I am new to this so bare with me.
1) I have a canon 7D I shoot in Raw 12-14 bit ? and most of my processing is done within lightroom so no need to export to photoshop however if i was to would this export as a 16bit file tiff or Jpeg ? If so if I was to after post processing in photoshop then back into lightroom this would only allow me to print in tiff or jpeg is this correct as a psd file/jpeg ?.
2) As I only edit in lightroom I can print directly in CR2 Raw format 12-14bit by using the canon print studio pro plugin ? or is this exported to the translator as a 16bit file ? and then use the paper manufactures ICC profile i.e (canon paper) for best results do I lose colour print quality by printing from Raw 12-14 bit rather than 16bit tiff/jpeg.
3) By using the Paper Manufactures ICC Profiles will the original raw file 12-14bit from 7Dcamera sRGB be translated to the printer by default from lightroom or is the colour space not needed as I havent converted to 16 Bit in post processing?
3) I havent had my monitor calibrated yet but intend to do so in the future, but until then I see no point in messing around with pro mode or sRGB or Adobe RGB or Pro photoRGB.
4) If I use lightrooms canon print studio pro pluggin is the colour space automatically translated from the settings in my camera or do I need to enable this in lightroom first ?.
5) I use a Mac running yosemite 10.10 and would like to know more about ICC profiles where to find the manufactures ICC Profiles how to download and where to store can you recommend a common website for learning how to do this on a mac ?.
6) As you can see I just want to print the best images from camera to printer without to much science involved however I am willing to learn but get confused with the different workspace post production softwares menu's for best results which i would prosume until i get my monitor calibrated proffesionally would be to print from Raw with the Manufactures ICC Profiles ?.
7) Are colour space and calibration settings all about printing what you have on the screen or is it mainly for extra colour depth in the print ?.
I can self calibrate my monitor to adobe RGB and have my camera shoot on adobe RGB -calibration with software but have been told i need colour monitoring devices correct ? if I was to do this and still just used the ICC paper profiles would the prints be any better ?.
My first prints were excellent very similar to what I see on the screen anyway but I checked lightrooms settings and these are on Pro photo RGB for external editing and is this the colour space for print studio pluggin also or is it just native Raw sRGB if I change the settings it says I will lose the maxium potential colour space.
sorry for the influx of questions :-)
Thomas
Solved!
Go to Solution.

You can not set the printer to match the monitor. You must set the monitor to match the printer. But the printer is already calibrated by the factory.
First, you must not let the printer set anything. Turn off every bit off control it has. You can do this with the Canon My Printer under the Printer Settings tab. Do you know how? I will guess, yes, for now but if you don't get back to me.
Second, you need to have your photo editor (like Photoshop or Lightroom) handle all the print settings and color matching. You know how to do this? I prefer Photoshop and I use AdobeRGB color space.
And lastly, it is essential you get some settings on your monitor that somewhat matches what the printer is printing. Your printer may be doing exactly what you are telling it to do and you have no idea it is, because your monitor is so far off. If you don't do this step, you can forget the other steps. However, there are only a few things that you need to be concerned with. You don't need any fancy extra add-on to do this. No additional software or gadgets, etc. No monkeys, no spiders, nothing!
Most people set their monitors too bright.
You must get the gray-scale very close. You need to get the brightness very close and you need the contrast very close.
After you do these things you can make adjustments to your prints by just looking at your screen. Because you know the monitor and printer are on the same level. One more point, you can NOT get a printer to print every color exactly the way you see it. It isn't possible as all colors and adjustments effect all others. My goal is to get the skin tones right. That is what people notice most. Remember you are dealing with two different disciplines here. One is colored light and the other is colored dyes. They are not the same thing.
For instance, I know my Pro-100 tends to print slightly darker than what I see on the monitor (typical). So, I automatically know to set it's prints 1/2 to one stop brighter in Photoshop, in my case. It also prints with a slightly warn tone. Most of the time, with portraits especially, this if OK but sometimes it is not. In that case I adjust the "temp" setting slightly cooler in PS.
All the Canon photo printers I have ever seen have this warm/magenta cast. Canon engineers must prefer this look. It can not be changed. You need to "fix" it in post.
Make sure you have the correct ICC profiles and you are using Canon brand ink and paper until you get good with the printer. Very, very important, otherwise you don't know if the printer is doing exactly what you are telling it to or not.
Important is, use the USB connection until everything is right. You are just adding another issue when you try to set up the printing and the wireless all at the same time. Just like using Canon branded products until it is a go. Use a real printer USB cable. Not just any old USB cable. Get everything right before you explore.
Good luck.
EOS 1Ds Mk III, EOS 1D Mk IV EF 50mm f1.2 L, EF 24-70mm f2.8 L,
EF 70-200mm f2.8 L IS II, Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 EX APO
Photoshop CS6, ACR 8.7, Lightroom 5.7

RGB Working Color SPace ....

I'm very confused with this stuff ...
I read that when we setup Photoshop we should set the working color space
rgb to Adobe RGB or ProPhoto RGB .... fine I understand this up to a point.
However what happend if the monitor can not display the color space ?
For example when I display the Color Picker on my external NEC monitor
everything always looks good but on my internal laptop monitor there is
banding in the Color Picker.
If I set the working color space to srgb then the banding disapears.
So just how should I set all this up ?

Michael,
rely on a calibrated precision monitor (not the laptop),
define all images by AdobeRGB and improve them by Levels,
Curves and Sharpening.
Check occasionally by Proof Colors / Gamut Warning
(using the monitor profile) whether the colors are out
of gamut for the monitor.
The monitor is probably not the final output device.
If the output device should be e.g. offset ISOCoated,
then check by Proof Colors / Gamut Warning whether the
colors are out of gamut for ISOCoated. If this should
be the case, then modify the RGB source until only small
parts of the image are out of gamut (yellow blossoms).
Otherwise larger parts might be affected by posterization
(blue sky).
Theoretically one can use 'desaturate by 20%', which should
show larger space colors mapped to the smaller space.
I don't use it, I'm preferring the gamut warning - recently
for a couple of landscape photos with very blue skies,
yellow blossoms and orange sunsets.
Best regards --Gernot Hoffmann

Flickr Publish Service Colour Space

I've read a couple of threads about setting colour spaces when exporting, including this thread:
http://forums.adobe.com/message/2942130#2942130
For many years I've used Photoshop Elements as my main editing software. The images that I've edited in PSE and then uploaded to Flickr using Flickr Uploadr all show the colour space as sRGB when I look up the EXIF data on Flickr.
Since I've started using LR 3, I've noticed that the images published to Flickr from the LR Flickr publish service don't show any colour space when I look up the EXIF data in Flickr. I can't see anything in the Flickr publish service settings that allows me to embed a colour space.
What colour space are the published images in? Am I missing a step somewhere in LR?

Thanks for taking the time to reply and for the very helpful information.
I'm aware of Jeffrey Friedl's plugin and I might eventually go that way, but for the moment I'm just trying to understand the built in publish service.
I didn't have the Hard Drive publish service set up, so I did that with sRGB as the colour space and Minimize Metadata unchecked. I checked the settings for the Flickr publish service, Minimize Metadata was also unchecked there. The ability to set a colour space is definitely present in the Hard Drive publish service but absent from the Flickr publish service.
After doing those things, I published some more photos to Flickr, again no colour space when I view the EXIF in Flickr. I still don't know whether no colour space is embedded, or whether sRGB is embedded but undisclosed.

Colour Space

Hi can any one allay my fears in that, I have my camera set to Adobe colour space, but when I open the image in photoshop and want to print it it appears as an sRGB colour space and I have to convert it each time. Is this normal or as it is shot in adobe should it appear as that in Elements. Any solution if I have a problem would be gratefully received.

Check your settings from the Editor go to:
Edit >> Color Settings
Choose: Always Optimize for Printing
Then click OK

I am having problems gettting my mail to work ... Mac telling me that my start up disk id full and to delete some files to free up space ... have done this but when i open mail from the dock it just brings up the colour wheel and nothing happening

I am having problems gettting my mail to work ... Mac telling me that my start up disk id full and to delete some files to free up space ... have done this but when i open mail from the dock it just brings up the colour wheel and nothing happening ... it shows when you right click on the mail icon that " application not responding"

If your hard drive is getting full, you need to free up, at least, 20 GBs of space on your iMac's hard drive.
If your Mac is running a fairly recent version of OS X, here are some general guidelines.
Follow some of my tips for cleaning out, deleting and archiving data from your Mac's internal hard drive.
Have you emptied your iMac's Trash icon in the Dock?
If you use iPhoto, iPhoto has its own trash that needs to be emptied, also.
If you use Apple Mail app, Apple Mail also has its own trash area that needs to be emptied, too!
Other things you can do to gain space.
Delete any old or no longer needed emails and/or archive to disc, flash drives or external hard drive, older emails you want to save.
Look through your Documents folder and delete any type of old useless type files like "Read Me" type files.
Again, archive to disc, flash drives, ext. hard drives or delete any old documents you no longer use or immediately need.
Download an app called OnyX for your version of OS X.
When you install and launch it, let it run the automatic ans S.M,A.R.T. tests, then go to the cleaning and maintenance tabs and run the tabs that have the ability to clean out all web browser cache files, web browser histories, system cache files, delete old error log files.
Typically, iTunes and iPhoto libraries are the biggest users of HD space.
move these files/data off of your internal drive to the external hard drive and deleted off of the internal hard drive.
If you have any other large folders of personal data or projects, these should be archived or moved, also, to the optical discs, flash drives or external hard drive and then either archived to disc and/or deleted off your internal hard drive.
Good Luck!

Which colour space for camera and LR

Thanks for the answers to my last post about sharpening and workflow.
My next question is about colour spaces. I use a Nikon D200 which lets me choose from sRGB or AdobeRGB...LR obviously has these plus ProPhoto RGB. I use a MacBook Pro and an HP deskjet printer (5850)...I bought this before I bought the camera, and although it is very good, when I eventually change it I will go for a better quality printer.
I AM NOT a pro photographer or photo-editor by any means, but I do want my pics to look the best they can. Can I get some advice please on the pros and cons of the colour spaces?
Cheers,
Nige

>sRGB should be good enough, but it's also good to hear you also shoot raw ... afterall, sRGB contains all of the color in most photographic images.
Actually sRGB encodes only about 90% of colors present in nature. adobeRGB about 97%. prophotoRGB a perfect 100%. Check this page for more info than you'd ever need: http://www.brucelindbloom.com/index.html?ColorCheckerRGB.html . That said, usually, because of the color management problem, stick to sRGB for exports that are consumed by other people.
>So..Michael...you said 'better inkjet printing'...I assume you mean a professional print lab or high level 'home' inkjet, rather than an average home printer like I have (perhaps one day!).
There are two answers to this. They might surprise you. Concerning home printing. Even the cheapest inkjets nowadays produce color outside of sRGB and even adobeRGB. You should print to these printers directly from Lightroom using actual color profiles meant for the printers and the paper you are using. Usually those are supplied with the drivers. This will give by far the best results and will give the deepest most saturated colors. This answer does not change when printing to even better printers. In fact, almost every current inkjet printer can now print colors that no display can actually show.
Second concerning lab prints. Be very very careful with this. Most labs, even the pro ones, do not color manage at all and their photo printers are tuned to approximate sRGB. Simply send them sRGB and you'll be fine. Some labs offer actual profiles that you can convert your images to in advance. (see http://lagemaat.blogspot.com/2008/05/great-prints-from-labs.html for more info). This gives slightly better prints and will reproduce colors not in sRGB ( and not even in adobeRGB: http://lagemaat.blogspot.com/2007/11/relevant-example-for-pprgb-vs-adobergb.html ). Due to variability in displays, you might even be able to see those colors on screen if you calibrate correctly. Some of the better labs might accept files in other profiles than sRGB or a lab specific profile. They will then do the conversion for you or have a color managed print workflow if they use inkjets. Make sure they know what they are doing which you usually can find out after talking for a few seconds.

I had 3 versions of FF and had to redo the HD and now no version will install says "Can't open output file" i have winddows 7 64 bit 8 GB memory and 1T HD but i have it on my other desktop and laptop with less memory and HD space and works fine

I had 3 versions of FF and had to redo the HD and now no version will install says "Can't open output file" i have winddows 7 64 bit 8 GB memory and 1T HD but i have it on my other desktop and laptop with less memory and HD space and works fine laptop has windows 7 64 bit and other desktop hook to my 32" tv has win 7 32-bit i lso did clean removal of all versions of FF and did new DLs with screen shots of it DLing, complete of DL and after i got the error again.

i am posting this as a reply due to it would not allow me to attach screen shots except for this way

Working Colour Space and sRGB

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