Would a EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM be a good addition to a Canon EOS Rebel T3?

Would a EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM be a good addition to a Canon EOS Rebel T3? I do already have a Canon zoom lens EF 75-300 lens in addition to the standard 18-55 lens.

I rented one and brought it with me to Italy to use on my T1i. It's a good lens and it takes great photos. The downfall is that it's very large & heavy. We had to drag it around in it's own separate carrying bag while we walked around Italy. It was great to take a shot of the top of the Duomo in Florence with it, when we were 2 miles away. We really couldn't find anything that we could use it on up close.
It depends on what you are going to do with it. If you're looking to take photos of wildlife, this would be a good lens along with a sturdy tripod.
It's quite a jump from the kit lens and the 75-300 you have. I had both of those lenses as well, then I upgraded my 75-300 to a 70-300 and that's really all I need. I also have the 18-55 as well as a 50mm prime.

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EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM

Just acquired an EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM lens. Is there anyone in this Canon community that can offer any dos or don'ts about this lens. Any information would be helpful. Thanks.
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Ed.
A couple things, I got my 100-400mm way, way back so I have used it a lot. It has marginal IQ which is really OK until you actually compare it to other similar lenses. This means by itself it is good but any addition can have undesirable results.
Don't get me wrong as I have some pretty darn good bird pictures with mine. However any time you add anything to the light path you degrade it. True for any lens not just the 100-400mm.
The most common problem is ghosting or flare caused by light bouncing off the filter. 75% of the time the filter will do no harm and I use them on almost all of my glass. I do use B+W or lens brand filters. Only high quality and less prone to cause problem.
Folks seem to have a problem removing the filter when conditiions arise that warrant it's removal. It does come off as easily as it went on! I don't have a filter on my 1000-400mm and I don't recommend you do either. But in the grand scheme of things it will not cause the end of the world if you do.
EOS 1Ds Mk III, EOS 1D Mk IV EF 50mm f1.2 L, EF 24-70mm f2.8 L,
EF 70-200mm f2.8 L IS II, Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 EX APO
Photoshop CS6, ACR 9, Lightroom 6

Can anyone give me feedback on the 100-400mm lens?

I am looking at replacing my 35-350mmL lens with a 100-400mm lens. Anything I should know about the 100-400mm lens?

I have both of those plus the 28-300 L IS & use them a lot for my (summer) events. It's a little bit heavier than the 35-350 but generally speaking a very versatile lens that gets good reviews. There are at leat 2 other threads about it that you should read before buying. What do you intend to use it for? and on what body?
"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

Canon EF 70-200mm f/4 L USM not as sharp as myCanon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS

Hi can't seem to get a sharp a image with my 70- 200 as I can with my 100-400mm. Should I be getting just as sharp photos with both lenses. I still have a warranty with best buy.
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What are your shooting conditions? If you were below 1/400 or so the IS on the 100-400 could make a significant difference. Try a controlled test, on a tripod, same settings, IS off.

T3i with a EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L. Focus problems

Hi I have a canon T3i and just bought a EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L. But mt photos just don't seem as if they are very sharp or focus. I took a photo of a snow owl and the ones with my 55-250mm actually turned out better! I was shooting at a shutter speed of 640 and 1000. Any suggestion

There is a learning curve with very long tele lenses.
At 400mm on your T3i you are actually trying to use a 640mm lens.
That's not only going to magnify the subject you are shooting but all the errors you may have made. And at the same ratio!
You are probably looking at a minimun shutter of 1/640. Making 1/1000 likely the slowest shutter you will get super sharp photos.
Investment in a good tripod is a great addition to your equipment.
EOS 1Ds Mk III, EOS 1D Mk IV EF 50mm f1.2 L, EF 24-70mm f2.8 L,
EF 70-200mm f2.8 L IS II, Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 EX APO
Photoshop CS6, ACR 8.7, Lightroom 5.7

Canon 70-200mm lens with a Canon Extender EF 2X III versus Canon 100-400mm lens

Which is better for astrophotography,
a Canon 70-200mm lens with a Canon Extender EF 2X III or Canon 100-400mm lens

JMR66 wrote:
Which is better for astrophotography,
a Canon 70-200mm lens with a Canon Extender EF 2X III or Canon 100-400mm lens
If you refer to Canon 70-200mm 2.8L IS II USM + Extender 2x III, then you'd get f/5.6 all over the focal length range vs. the EF 100-400 f/4.5-5.6L IS USM (meaning you'll get a bit more of light at the short telephoto end when using the 100-400)
Both combinations are very sharp, but I think the 100-400 is a bit sharper when compared to 70-200 2.8L II + extender 2x III, noticeable if you use full frame DSLRs.
If you use APS-C DSLRs, then I'd suggest going for the 70-200 2.8L IS II USM because you'll get more than 1 f-stops of light if you shoot from 70 to 200mm (without the Extender 2x III) compared to the 100-400, and the sharpness is really amazing (better than 100-400 in both Full Frame and APS-C cameras)
Regards
HD Cam Team
Group of photographers and filmmakers using Canon cameras for serious purposes.
www.hdcamteam.com | www.twitter.com/HDCamTeam | www.facebook.com/HDCamTeam

Extender with 100-400mm lens.

I have heard and read both - The 1.4x extender will and will not allow autofocusing with a 7D and a 100-400mm lens. Does anyone know?

At the 100mm end of the zoom range, the lens becomes an f/6.3 -- and probably your camera can focus at f/6.3 ... but that's pretty much the limit. At the 400mm end of the range (and in fact even at mid-zoom levels) the 7D wont be able to auto-focus. The 5D III and 1D X have working phase-detect AF at f/8, but not the 7D. Pretty much all bodies hit the limit at f/5.6 (but usually you can sneak in f/6.3), but only those two bodies have working auto-focus at f/8.
If there is enough light, it may be able to focus in live-view mode becasue that uses constrast-detection AF, rather than the phase-detect AF points and if there's enough light and contrast it may be able to work, but contrast-detection isn't as fast so if this is for sports or action photography then that's probably not worth persuing.
You could always rent a 1.4x from one of the many rental agencies and give it a try to see if it works for you.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Is there a lens profile for Canon EF100-400mm/4.5-5.6L IS II USM for Lightroom 5 ?

I have Lightroom 5.7 and Camera RAW 8.8 (Via DNG converter 8.8) in Mac OS X 10.10.2.
According to Adobe documentation there lens profile for EF100-400mm/4.5-5.6L IS II USM should be provided by Camera Raw8.8.
However, I cannot not find lens profile correction for this lens from Lightroom 5.7. Does anyone know howto enable lens profile for this lens ?

Thanks, this workaround works:
I copied appropriate lens profile from (the .lcp file)
/Library/Application Support/Adobe/CameraRaw/LensProfiles/1.0
to:
/Users/<my username>/Library/Application Support/Adobe/CameraRaw/LensProfiles

Taking the big leap: buying new computer, camera, color software (X-Rite), printers...would love some feedback from those who may know about fine art reproduction. I'm opting for Canon camera options, Mac Pro vs iMac, and in printers, the Epson 7600.

Friends of Digital Workflow, especially photographers,
I'm just about to buy all new studio equipment.
I have two threads to my question:
1. Want some input about iMac vs Mac Pro (with a 27' monitor), which monitor system do you prefer?
2. I am Guru level in the Creative Suite but have little knowledge base for working with Aperature. Want some feed back about pros and cons of the workflow.
I'm also investing in X-Rite Color Suite for Print so that cameras, monitors, printers and projectors may be calibrated. I've used Gretag equipment for years and know profiling quite well. This is an important issue for knowledge about how profiles interface with Aperature.
I appreciate any and all comments.
Merci,
Frederick Park
North Carolina
PS You are welcome to request my personal email or phone number if you feel a lengthy discussion is an option.

Hi Frederick,
You're spending a lot of money. I will add my 2¢ -- -- but you must, as I assume you know, fully research your options.
Environment:
Start with your workspace (inc. lighting) and your clothes.
Screen:
The iMac screens are lovely, but not, from what I hear, monitor-grade accurate. For critical color work, use NEC or Eizo monitors. I use NEC, with their SpectraView II software and an X-Rite ColorMunki photospectrometer. At the time, this was the least expensive color-calibrated workflow.
Printer:
Epson's are great, imho. I use a 3880 in my studio and rent a 9900 by the hour when needed. I have read of problems (iirc) with one of the printers in the 7000 line, however. The take-home lesson that I filed in my brain was, "If you're going to spend the money on the 7000 line, just get the 9000 line."
Aperture workflow:
Aperture is a fantastic workflow tool. Since you are adept with PS, you should set PS as your external editor. Use Apertures formidable tools for storing and organizing your Images, and its robust editing tools for either all your proofing, or all but your most demanding editing needs. That said, allow a good bit of time to get the feel of Aperture. It is not at all like Bridge. But your important choice is which RAW converter you want to use. There is, imho, no reason to use Aperture if you are going to use Adobe's (or anyone else's) RAW converter.
Good luck!
--Kirby.

How to unlock iphone 4s as my carrier would not do atleast for 3-4 months? is officialiphoneunlock.co.uk any good?

can any one used this website as it says official.

It is NOT official. It is a hack.
The ONLY place that can unlock an iphone legiimately is the carrier to which it is locked. No one else AT ALL can legitmately unlock it. No one. At all. ONLY the carrier to which it is locked.

EOS Lens Registration Tool

What is the EOS Lens Registration Tool?
I suspect it was part of a recent upgrade to my Canon software. When activated, it will not launch and said my XSi camera is not recognized. The EOS Utility does recognize the camera.
Is it for a full frame or a newer model or version of Canon camera?
Thanks. Lots of good information here.
Canon EOS Rebel XSi
EF-S 17-55 f2.8 IS USM
EF 24-105 f4L IS
EF 85 f1.8 USM
EF 50 f2.5 Macro
Sigma 400 f5.6
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It is for newer model cameras. It allows the lens correction data to be uploaded to the camera.
John Hoffman
Conway, NH
1D Mark IV, Rebel T5i, Pixma PRO-100, MX472

I have a EOS T1i and would like to experiment with time lapse photography. Any help?

I have an EOS T1i and would like to experiment with time lapse photography. I just read an Apple tip for the iPad and it is easy to do with the iPad but timing is something else. I would like to do it with my Canon and be able to change the timing between shots. Can you provide advice? I put time lapse into Google and it had an attachment for the T3i that I could get from Amazon. I don't know if it fit my T1i and don't know where to put it. Any advice would be helpful. I tried to do a search on this forum but could not find the answer.
Bob
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The Google search: https://www.google.com/search?q=EOS+T1i&oq=EOS+T1i&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i60l2&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=1...
The first hit: http://www.superstokedmagazine.com/article/2013/09/how-to-do-a-time-lapse-with-a-canon-eos-rebel-t1i...

Why does my 5D Mark III suddenly stop shooting pictures?

Every so often when I am shooting a lot of pictures with my 5D Mark III, once I release the shutter button I am unable to focus or take more pictures for a few seconds. I thought at first this was because it was writing information to the memory card but that does not appear to be the issue. The screen also does not indicate that it is busy or writing informatoin to the card. This issue does not happen on my 7D or 50D.
Canon EOS 5D Mark III
Canon EOS 7D
Canon EOS 50D
EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM Telephoto Zoom
Canon MP-E 65mm f/2.8 1-5x Macro Photo Macro Lens
Canon EF 180mm f3.5L Macro USM AutoFocus Telephoto
Canon EF 70-200mm F/4L USM
Canon EF 50mm f1.4 USM
Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8L II USM
Quantaray 18-200mm 1:3.5-6.3
Sigma 105mm 1:2.8 DG Macro
Canon Extender 1.4 III

tdehan wrote:
So, I need to make a correction on the Compact Flash Card. The card I am using is a SanDisk Extreme PRO 32GB Compact Flash.
I am wondering...I was shooting a wedding this past weekend when this was happening. The card is rated at 32GB however, the formatted space shows approx 29GB. The total space used for pictures was just over 27GB. Wonder if it was stopping because the card was getting low on space?
What lens were you using? My 70-200 f/2.8 has two modes. In one of them it focusses faster, but doesn't let you get as close to the subject as in the other mode. If you're in that first mode and you get too close to the subject, the resulting behavior is as you describe. I doubt that that's your problem, but thought it was at least worth mentioning.
If the card were out of space, it would tell you. You wouldn't have to guess.
Bob
Boston, Massachusetts USA

What equipment to rent for a cruise to Alsaka, with a trip to Katmai National Park

We are planning a cruisetour to Alaska in the summer of 2014. I was wondering what equipment would be best to rent for the trip. I am at best a total amature when it comes to photography. We will on on shio for seven days, then going to Danali National Park, and also to Katmai National Park. Any and all help with this is greatly appreciated. Thanks. George
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Alaska is a target rich State to shoot some really breathtaking shots. But, you do have to be careful. YOU will not be at the top of the food chain. That place is firmly secured by the Polar Bear. You don't want to get close to these guys. If you go looking for bears, take as long a lens you can get. The absolute minimum would be a 100-400mm zoom. Alaska, is also home of some really big grizzly bears, these guys are no slouch either. For the beautiful panaramas you may want to invest in a ultra wide angle lens, like the EF-S-10-22mm. It does not have IS, but you can get some stunning wide angle shots from from the trusty tripod. Also, the 10-22 gets rave reviews of image quality from some of the major reviewers, Ken Rockwell, give it a "L" quality review. I wouldn't spend any extra money on a EF 70-200 f2.8L IS USM. It is a large heavy lens. But I would opt for the EF 70-200 f4L IS USM, it is much lighter, and has good IS, and will be easy to sling around on those eagles. You fail to mention what lenses you now have, but a good mid range telephoto would be good to have for the trip. Shots taken from the cruise ship should be hand held, because of the vibration of the ship will pass through to the tripod. So, any lens you shoot with from the ship should have IS, if not you may have to up your ISO to 1000 or more, and shoot at a high shutter speed, to keep out blur of movement. For that mid range telephoto you may want to look at either the EF 24-105 f4L IS USM, or the EF 24-70 f4L IS USM, both are Canon L quality lenses, and reasonably priced. Those lenses I have suggested will fill all your needs for your trip, with the sharpest quality lenses for your camera. I would suggest you purchase a refurbished 7D to upgrade your camera body. The 7D is the best wildlife camera available now. You can get one from Adorama, now on a refurbished special from Canon. You can also buy the lenses refurbished from Adorama, and B&H, and even used from KEH and save a good amount of money.
Enjoy your trip.

Going to Antarctica

Going to Antarctica but not getting off the ship. Any suggestions for a telephoto lens. I have Rebel Xsi getting T5i. How about a teleconverter? I can't use a heavy lens.

Ilene wrote:
Going to Antarctica but not getting off the ship. Any suggestions for a telephoto lens. I have Rebel Xsi getting T5i. How about a teleconverter? I can't use a heavy lens.
It would depend on what you'd like to photograph.
A couple of great lenses are EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM and EF 70-200mm 2.8L II USM.
The first being more "flexible" in focal lengths but not so sharp nor "fast" as the second. Anyway it's a GREAT lens. If you want high quality image, you should consider using high quality lenses.
With 5D Mark 3, the 70-200mm 2.8L II + 2x EF Extender III works really well regarding AF, but we didn't test it on the T5i. The AF performance may be very different.
I was thinking about going there too, but getting off the ship for sure In my case I'd take wide angle and telephoto lenses for different subjects and topics (great landscapes, cientific bases, distant objects, animals, etc).
Take care of the cold weather for you and your gear. Don't bring the gear into a warm room suddenly from cold outdoors without putting them into a zip lock bag or covering with a towel to let the gear get the indoor temperature gradually. Otherwise your gear will get moisture condensation and it may get damaged easily, especially if the camera+lnes is not weather sealed. Some other people just leave the gear inside the bag/backpack for a while until it gets warm.
Keep the spare batteries warm in your pockets, and take spare caps too, you never know when you'll need some.
Regards
HD Cam Team
Group of photographers and filmmakers using Canon cameras for serious purposes.
www.hdcamteam.com | www.twitter.com/HDCamTeam | www.facebook.com/HDCamTeam

Would a EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM be a good addition to a Canon EOS Rebel T3?

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