X-Fi working in Vista64! Here is how I did

first disable Driver Signing in Vista(thanks to Pyr0 @ PlanetAMD64.com)
To prevent vista from requiring signed drivers:
. customize the start menu and enable the run command, in the run command box, type cmd
2. enter the following in the command window that appears, to disable driver signature checks:
bcdedit /set nointegritychecks ON
3. reboot the computer
Download the XP64 X-Fi drivers version 2.9.000
Run it but don't continue. Once the program is running copy the files from c:\windows\temp\Cxxxxxxx whatever it puts the files in to a new folder. Exit the installation.
I chose c:\x-fi
go to c:\x-fi\drivers
run setup
choose uninstall drivers and check the box to delete all shared files
reboot the PC
When any message says it found new hardware cancel it out.
Once the PC is done rebooting run the setup program from c:\x-fi\drivers
If you get an error it is because not all files were removed. You can try clicking the box to force overwriting the files.
IMPORTANT STEP AHEAD!!!!
When it asks you to install unkown provider drivers say Install or whatever. HOWEVER
The driver update program will start to go into "Not Responding"
Wait or 2 seconds for the hourglass to go away but you MUST cancel the setup. Otherwise you will probably get a blue screen.
Choose the option 'Close program' then WAIT for windows to find a solution.
Stereo sound is now working.
Do not reboot the PC or sound will no longer work.
Rebooting will cause the 'Windows Audio Endpoint Builder' service to return an error saying 'Error 0x80070002: The system cannot find the file specified'
PITA and sucks if you want to reboot.
Not even close to a long term solution, maybe this will give creative something to work on to make a working driver though.
I also can't seem to get Audio CS to work, even though sound is working it says it can't find a compatible device.Message Edited by Hachima on 06-3-2006 06: PM

- Stereo sound is now working -
An X-FI with stereo sound.... I don't think people are listening here, tricking the OS into using a driver not designed for the OS and getting 2 speaker sound on a soundcard that does 7. is not what we are looking for.
For the 0th time this is not a working method to get the XFI to work, this is a method for getting an XFI crippled version to work...
I can get 7. sound off my onboard audio which is what I am using now, it sucks and I want a driver that I can use to get what I payed almost $400 for.

Similar Messages

Updated to iOS 4.2.1-Here's How I did It

I updated from 4.01 to the latest in about 8 minutes after I downloaded the update. Here is what I did...First I download the latest iTunes. Installed it over the previous version and downloaded (only) the update in iTunes and saved it. It took about 20 minutes for it to finish downloading.
1. Then before you do anything else, Backup/Sync your phone and save it. Go to C:\Users\xxx\AppData\Roaming\Apple Computer\MobileSync\Backup and copy it for safe keeping if you are using Windows 7. This will be you backup before the update.
2. Close down all of your open apps in the taskbar of your iPhone.
3. Shut down your phone completely.
4. Plug your phone into your sync cable, load iTunes, and hit update. The downloaded update will do its thing. This procedure worked for me and I think possibly eliminated any upgrade problems that I was worried about.
My folders were fine, proximity sensor is the same as before (no problems) and now I got the cool updates. Find My Phone worked fine too.
Hope this helps the holdouts. I had 4.01 for pete's sake and took the plunge. So far so good.

Alright I have windows 7 and I tried downloading the new iPhone software at least 8 times now and each time the download completes, but then promps me that the connection has timed out. I am certain that it is not my internet connection because I have used several different networks. I was wondering if anyone had any idea how to change my internet options if that is the problem. I turned off all of my firewalls since I could not find a way to allow itunes to pass through the firewall even though it seems to be allowed. Thanks to anyone that can help.

My emails are back...here's how I did it.

After getting through to the phone helpline (if you get the recorded message and then nothing just hit a random key a few times and you will get through).He assigned me a temporary password and did some fiddling around which didn't work initially but after resetting Firefox it worked, no lost emails from the past 4 days either. I have found the tech guys (and gals) in India to be the only good thing about about BT's otherwise risible customer support.

Alright I have windows 7 and I tried downloading the new iPhone software at least 8 times now and each time the download completes, but then promps me that the connection has timed out. I am certain that it is not my internet connection because I have used several different networks. I was wondering if anyone had any idea how to change my internet options if that is the problem. I turned off all of my firewalls since I could not find a way to allow itunes to pass through the firewall even though it seems to be allowed. Thanks to anyone that can help.

(SCP) How My XFi started working in Vista64 SP1

Hi all,
I'd been pulling my hair out for a while with this serious flaw and seem to have somehow fixed it. I thought as I'd gleaned so much information from various forums that I would try to pay back with what worked for me. I cannot claim any one particular thing worked, but I will roughly document what I went through until it suddenly cleared up.
Firstly I think I'll provide some background as to how I came across this bug - Recently I had ordered Vista64 bit Home Premium from MS as I thought that since I was already using a 4GB system it was about time I jumped ship to 64bit rather than continuing with Vista32 using the PAE trick of getting all 4GB to work (which worked quite well incidentally). This was all using my X-fi Extreme Music which for over 2 years had not skipped a beat. After switching to V64 SP things started to go SCP causing quite some angst!
Okay, enough rambling - here is how it started working.
# I tried numerous drivers all of which SCP'd to a greater or lesser degree = no success
# Changing the quality of the audio in control panel (sampling etc) = no success
# Disabling the X-Fi enhancements through control panel = no success
# I tried checking IRQ clashe, unfortunately nothing was sharing an IRQ with it = no success
# I tried moving to another PCI slot = no success (in fact it got much worse)
Thinking that I was going to go back to Vista32 bit and save myself shelling out on a non-creative card I decided to have a shot at changing the PCI latency. Unfortunately I do not have this option in my BIOS so I thought I'd use the PCI latency tool at Guru3d.com. This doesn't work immediately with Vista 64. To get around this I disabled UAC and installed it. Vista moaned about driver signing etc so I thought I'd restart and use F8 at boot to temporarily disable Vista's iron clamp on driver signing at 64bit. I rebooted my machine with this aim. For some reason I went into my BIOS thinking that I'd have "one last look through just in case" and noticed that there was an option relating to mapping a memory hole in HW (I had already used the SW version in the BIOS to solve a 4GB related problem which worked) and thought "What the h*ll, I'll give it a go" and enabled it. Rebooting into Vista after F8 and disabling driver signing, I suddenly noticed that the crackle was gone. Odd I thought so I fired up the PCI latency tool just in case and changed my Xfi from the latency of 32 to 64 as I'd seen mentioned on various forums.
So far after several restarts things seem to now be working. I'm sorry I cannot exactly put my finger on one thing and say that is the fix, but hopefully my badly written ramble above will give someone an idea as what to try.
Good luck everyone
P.S. Incase anyone would like to see what my system specs are they are:
Athlon X2 4200+, 4GB DDR400, MSI K8N diamond motherboard (not the plus version), Geforce 7800GTX, a bunch of samsung HDDs, X-fi Extreme Music, Vista 64 SP

The 'Normal' way of restoring is to plug the iPhone in and click on Restore in iTunes. It will download the latest version of iOS and restore your device.
The iPhone 3GS is fully capable of running iOS 4.3

HT204053 i have an itunes library with 1,000+ songs on a pc. my daughter has a macbook air and i loaded my apple ID onto it. how do i get the songs from my itunes account to show up? This works fine on her iPhone, but having trouble on the new macbook

i have an itunes library with 1,000+ songs on a pc. my daughter has a macbook air and i loaded my apple ID onto it. how do i get the songs from my itunes account to show up? This works fine on her iPhone, but having trouble on the new macbook air

Hey kbert73
I would do a transfer of purchases from the phone and not sync. If you sync then it will want to start over and sync music that is on the MacBook Pro. If you want to transfer the music, check out the article below that will give you multiple options on how to move. I have also provided on how to sync with multiple computers.
iTunes: How to move your music to a new computer
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht4527
Using iPhone, iPad, or iPod with multiple computers
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1202
Thanks for using Apple Support Communities.
Regards,
-Norm G.

Now able to copy photos from PC to iPhone - Here is how it worked for me!

This is a long one!
Most of us come here for the first time looking for answers on how to do something or to find out what we or our iPhones are doing wrong. I've been looking and watching the threads for over a week on several questions I have, one of which is why I "couldn't get photos from my PC to my iphone". I kept trying so many things I even unintentionally deleted the photos I had taken with the iphone camera. Luckily I had (somehow) downloaded them to my PC, but the problem was I couldn't get them back on to my iphone nor add other pictures to my iphone.
Well, if you are like me you look for the tiniest bit of information that may help work and reduce the frustration. I'm not really sure what happened to make it work correctly, but it did and has been working ever since. This may not help everyone but if it helps just one that is having the same problem I was, it will be worth me posting my resolution here. Again I'm not sure it will help but here is what made it work for me! Please tell us if it did or did work for you?
Ok here is what I did: I made a special folder on the root of one of the other drives (not my C drive) I have on my PC and called it "iPhone Pics and Movies". Under that I made two folders: one called "My iPhone Movies", the other called "My iPhone Pictures" (no quotes in any of those). I then took a small .jpg picture that was already on my PC (in another place), made a copy and renamed it with my daughters name( because it's a picture of her). It's five letters long starting with a capital letter and has no spaces, numbers, or any other symbols or characters. Then, I have an old version of Adobe Photoshop and used it to edit the photo size to near (not over) 640x480 (or vice versa in landscape). If you don't have Adobe Photoshop I don't know if it will work but would like to hear if it does from anyone that was having the same problem I was and this helped. The next thing I did was take that one picture I adjusted the size on and copy (not drag and drop) and paste into the folder I created My iPhone pictures. Then made sure my iphone wasn't connected, opened iTunes 7.4.1 (the new one) and selected the music on the left window (not that it would matter I guess). I made sure my iphone was off and connected it to the PC USB port, (clicked off the preverbal iPhone connected which program to use window that pops up) and let itunes finish seeing my iphone. Clicked on the iphone that now shows up in "Devices" on the left. BTW, I don't have anything selected in the "Options" area of the Summary Tab. Neither of those selections are checked at the bottom. I then went to the upper photos tab. When that window opened, I then unchecked the sync at the top and reselected it to have a check mark in it. Then changed the "sync photos from field" location to "Choose Folder" and browsed to and clicked on the new "iPhone Pics and Movies" (NOT the lower sub folder my iphoto pictures - not yet anyway) and then said OK. In iTunes, it immediatly populated the lower selection window with the two sub folders I made. Now I put a check mark in the "selected folders" block and it indicated I have (1) photo (which is correct only having my daughters photo in there. * I didn't do more than one photo at first because I had tried all this with more than one before and it didn't work. So just putting one in there at first seems to have jump started the process correctly (at least that's what worked for me). I then clicked on the bottom right (itunes right of the capacity bar) either "sync" or "add" (which ever was showing at the time). The process window at the top said it was processing photos (a good sign). When the sync rotor stopped on the device for iphone. I unplugged it from my PC and immediatly turned it on and went to photos happily and (FINALLY) to see three selections listed under photo albums. The standard "camera roll", a new "Photo Library (1)", AND (cheers from the crowd) "My iPhone Pictures (1)". Of course I selected my iphone pictures and there was the picture of my daughter. I shut down my iphone, closed itunes and proceeded to copy more photos to "My iPhone Pictures" folder. Then went through the whole process again and saw all my pictures in "My iPhone Pictures" folder showing up in my iphone.
NOTE: A folder will be created buy iTunes on your PC in your version of the "My iPhone Pictures" folder. That folder will be named by iTunes as "iPod Photo Cache". Don't change, move, or delete it. Just leave it alone. If you do you will have to start the whole process all over again (that's what happened to me).
This was long, but I wanted to make sure you had all the steps correctly to try for yourself. This has worked well ever since I "jump started it". I now have 36 pictures in my iPhone and will be adding more. If it helps, Good! If not, don't blame me, I was just telling you that it did work for me. Good Luck! Please take a minute to write a reply here if it did or did not work for you.

or... put your photos in "My Pictures" in My Documents, and viola, itunes syncs it to the iphone. only one sentence needed =/
maybe im missing your point here, the long paragraph is mindboggling

I fixed the Flash Player Problem...Here's How

Okay, this worked for me. Whether it will work for you, I hope so. Thanks to Duelly Noted for much of the work, and dumb luck for the rest.
First, you need 3 user accounts for windows. When you open the start menu, on the top is the username and the icon you use. Click on the icon, and it will go to manage accounts. Now, make sure your account is set to administrator. Create 2 new accounts, and make sure BOTH are set as administrators, not users!!!
Now to make it simple, I am going to use letters to name the accounts.
A-Your main account, with the Flash Problem
B- A second account
C-The account you want to use as your new one
You need to download the Flash installer, on both A and C. Here is the link:
http://kb2.adobe.com/cps/141/tn_14157.html
While you are logged into A and C, you must install on both accounts. Install to desktop.
In account A, download and install the uninstaller. uninstall flash player with the uninstaller above. DO NOT UNINSTALL through WINDOWS PROGRAMS! Run whatever you use to clean your account, Disk Cleanup, etc. Restart your computer. Log out of the account. Log into account B, it takes a moment to set the desktop. Then log out. Log into account C, and uninstall Flash Player from there. With the uninstaller!!! Now clean that account too. Restart again. Log out of C. Restarting helps clean the old files out. Log back into B, and transfer all your files from A to C. Then log back into B. Here's how:
Click the start Menu, click computer, then click your C: drive. click Tools, click Folder Options, click the View tab, click Show hidden files and folders, click to clear the Hide protected operating system files check box, and then click OK. Locate the user account for A, where C is the drive on which Windows is installed, and Old_Username is the name of the profile you want to copy user data from. Highlight each file and subfolder in this folder, except the following files: * Ntuser.dat * Ntuser.dat.log * Ntuser.ini. On the Edit menu, click Copy. # Locate the C:\Documents and Settings\New_Username folder, where C is the drive on which Windows XP is installed, and New_Username is the name of the user profile that you created in the "Create a New User Profile" section. # On the Edit menu, click Paste. Log off the computer, and then log on as the new user. Note You must import your e-mail messages and addresses to the new user profile before you delete the old profile. For more information, click the following article number to view the article in the Microsoft Knowledge Base: 313055 (http://support.microsoft.com/kb/313055/ ) Mail folders, address book, and e-mail messages are missing after you upgrade to Microsoft Windows .
Now log on C. Then make sure EVERYTHING transferred. It worked on mine, but as far as Outlook, or Mail, your contacts should be imported, and hopefully your messages, too. Then unless you are prompted to log in there, you will have to reset your settings. If you don't know how, contact your service provider for your internet.
If everything is transferred fine, then make sure A and B are logged off. But first make sure all your files and accounts are working. Since C is administrator, simply delete A and B. Then you are left with C, and a destination for a working Flash. At this point, clean and defrag your drive.
Then install flash on C. What I figure is the Flash Problem might be code, and if you have Flash on A and C, whatever problem transfers with your files. Without 2 Flashes to go to, it just gets lost.
This worked great for me, I hope it works for you too. I pray that I didn't miss a step, but as far as physical computer problems, I am great. With software, I am still learning. But between what I have been suggested to do, and a little bit of conjecture, I now have Flash.
P.S. Adobe support is WORTHLESS on this! I contacted them, and they told me they couldn't help me without registering my product. But you can't since Flash is a free program and there is not serial number, which is the first step to register a program. Then, they followed up with 3 responses asking if my problem had been solved, or to contact them. BUT you just said you couldn't help me unless I registered. Then they considered my problem closed and that was that. I replied with exactly what they said to me, and reopened the case. You know, just for the heck of it. Then, HA HA, they sent me a survey asking how the help went for me. Oh, I enjoyed that survey indeed.

I apologize for that. Here is the problem I was having:
With two particular sites, espn.com and ign.com, though I have heard it happened on many other sites as well. On these sites, the flash content for backgrounds, advertisements, everything else would run fine. The issue was with the video content. On ESPN.COM, if I wanted to watch a larger video the length of the screen, when I loaded it the screen would freeze on a still image, and the sound would play but not the video. On the still image, a white play arrow would be static with a white circle around it. If I called up the Flash settings menu, it would be inoperative, frozen, and you could not close it. On smaller videos, the box would stay black with no picture, no sound. If I called up the Flash menu, same thing would happen, frozen. On IGN.COM, pretty much the same thing. Other Flash content would load fine, but not videos. On the link to a video, a Flash advertisement next to the video box would play, but not the video. Occasionally, an ad would play in the video screen fine, but no requested video. All black, with a frozen Flash settings menu. That's pretty much it, sorry for leaving that out. But on every other site I visited with video (ie. Youtube, gamespot, etc.) everything would run fine. But the two in question are a couple of the sites I visit most, so I was on a mission to fix it.

HERE'S HOW TO SHARE iCAL w/ MULTIPLE USERS on 1 Mac

Here's how to share iCal calendars among multiple users on a single Mac.
What you need to do is to move the iCal folder to a shared folder that is accessible to all users and then replace the iCal folder in each user's library folder with a "symbolic link' to the shared iCal folder. The symbolic link looks like an "alias", but if you try this using "aliases" to the shared iCal folder it will not work (trust me). You can create symbolic links using the Terminal, but I have no idea how, and the idea of using the Terminal scares me. The easiest way that I know of to create a symbolic link is with a shareware application called Cocktail. It allows you to do a number of different things including System Maintenance, Network Optimization, etc. It took me a while to remember how to do this; I originally found the information in the Discussions when iCal was first released, but apparently none of those original postings are listed in the forums anymore.
Here's how to do it (you must have Administrator privileges):
First locate your iCal folder (your user name > Library > Application Support > iCal) and make a copy of it (Finder > File > Duplicate). Drag the copy to your Desktop until you're sure iCal is being shared between users.
Next move the original iCal folder into a Shared folder in the Users folder (Hard Disk > Users > Shared > iCal). To make sure all users can access the information, select the Shared folder, choose File > Get Info, click the little Lock icon, then under "Ownership & Permissions -> Details" make sure that the "Owner" is "System", "Group" is "Wheel" and "Access" for Owner, Group and Others is "Read & Write". Do the same with the iCal folder within the Shared folder, but this time, under "Ownership & Permissions -> Details" make sure that the "Owner" is "your user name", "Group" is "Staff" and "Access" for Owner, Group and Others is "Read & Write" and click the "Apply to Enclosed Items" button. I basing this information on what the Ownership & Permissions are for each of the folders in my system.
Open Cocktail (I'm using version 3.6.5). Once the app is open (you must enter an administrator's user name and password) click on the "Files" button, then click on the "Links" button. Where it says "Create Symbolic Link" click on the "Choose" button. Navigate to the iCal folder (Hard Disk > Users > Shared > iCal) and click "Choose" again. In the "Save As" box that appears enter "iCal", then navigate to the Application Support folder in your Home folder (your user name > Library > Application Support) and click "Save". Quit Cocktail and open iCal. You should see all of your calendars as you did before.
Log in under each additional User, move that User's iCal folder (user name > Library > Application Support > iCal) onto the Desktop, then create another Symbolic Link to replace it, using Cocktail as described above. In each case you should see the same calendar information as when you were logged in under your user name. As a test, add a New Event or To Do in iCal under one user, log out and back in under another user and you should see the changes when you open iCal.
Once everything appears to be working, you can delete the iCal folders from each User's Desktop.
As an additional maintenance measure, use Disk Utility to repair Disk Permissions.
Unfortunately, if each User has his/her own calendars in iCal they will not be in the shared calendars. Only the calendars in the first iCal folder used to set up the shared folder will be available and I don't know of any way to merge or combine the other user's calendars into one.
Hope this helps and good luck!

Unfortunately, if each User has his/her own calendars in iCal they will not be in the shared calendars. Only the calendars in the first iCal folder used to set up the shared folder will be available and I don't know of any way to merge or combine the other user's calendars into one.
If every user first exports their calendars (with unique names) and then the "First" user imports them, before all the other set up, everyone's calendar will be there.
Also, iCalShare lets you publish and subscribe on a computer or across a local network, without having to let everyone see and edit all your calendars.

Hi I have an iPhone 4 and suddenly it stopped working. Could here notifications and nothing on the diisplay. Wake up button on top is not working. so unable to restart the phone. Wanted to try restore from iTunes but Find my iPhone (iCloud) is on.

Hi I have an iPhone 4 and suddenly it stopped working. Could here notifications and nothing on the diisplay. Wake up button on top is not working. so unable to restart the phone. Wanted to try restore from iTunes but Find my iPhone (iCloud) is on. How to recover or restart my Phone

Follow these steps to log into your iCloud account on your computer and deactivate "Find my iPhone" on your device:
Remove an iOS device or Mac on which you can’t turn off Find My iPhone
If you can’t turn off Find My iPhone on the device, turn off the device so it goes offline, then remove it from Find My iPhone on iCloud.com.
Note: You can also remove your iOS device by first erasing it—just follow the instructions below for removing an iOS device you don’t have. You can later restore the device from an iCloud or iTunes backup.
Turn off the device you want to remove.
Sign in to icloud.com/#find on another computer with your Apple ID (the one you use with iCloud). If you’re using another iCloud app, click the app’s name at the top of the iCloud.com window, then click Find My iPhone.
Click All Devices, select the offline device, then click Remove from Account. If you don’t see Remove from Account, click All Devices again, then click the Delete button next to the device. If the device comes online again, it will reappear in Find My iPhone. If your device reappears, turn off Find My iPhone on the device (follow the instructions above for removing a device by turning off Find My iPhone), or if it’s an iOS device and you no longer have it, follow the instructions below for removing an iOS device you no longer have.
Remove an iOS device you no longer have
If you no longer have the iOS device because you gave it away or sold it, you need to remotely erase it before you can remove it.
Sign in to icloud.com/#find with your Apple ID (the one you use with iCloud). If you’re using another iCloud app, click the app’s name at the top of the iCloud.com window, then click Find My iPhone.
Click All Devices, then select the device.
Click Erase [device], then enter your Apple ID password. Because the device isn’t lost, don’t enter a phone number or message.
Note: If you’re trying to erase a family member’s device, that person will need to enter his or her Apple ID password on this device. If the device is offline, the remote erase begins the next time it’s online. You’ll receive an email when the device is erased.
When the device is erased, click Remove from Account.All your content is erased, and someone else can now activate the device.
copied from: iCloud: Remove your device from Find My iPhone

I just upgraded from my 2008 MacBook to a new Macbook Pro. How do I get my time capsule to work on my new MacBook? I did data migration, but the time capsule did not pick it up. Any ideas?

I just upgraded from my 2008 MacBook to a new Macbook Pro. How do I get my time capsule to work on my new MacBook? I did data migration, but the time capsule did not pick it up. Any ideas?

If you migrated all the info from time machine to your new MBP. The TM will usually ask to connect to the old backups.. sorry I am not sure is this what you want to do.. Personally I think you start a fresh backup.
BTW Time Capsule does not do anything.. it is a dumb hard disk in a box.. it is TM that does everything.
Look at B5 and B6 here about connecting to your backup.
http://pondini.org/TM/Troubleshooting.html

Here's how I restored my mini from the dead (Win XP)

When I installed the 1.4 updater on my iPod, it erased everything on it. Here's what I did to fix it:
1) Uninstall the 1.4 software
2) Disconnect the iPod from the computer, but do so safely, even if you have to reboot the computer.
3) Reset your iPod. There are specific instructions on how to do this here(http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=61705). You may have to do this several times throughout the following process. You can only perform a reset when your iPod is disconnected from your computer or other power source.
4) Install the original software from the CD that came with your iPod. Follow the instructions to the letter. The software will format your iPod, but may come up with an error box explaining that it cannot complete the format. Click "OK" on the error box, then try the installation again. It should now say that the iPod has been formatted. Allow the installation to complete, then reboot. Leave your iPod connected to your computer during the reboot.
5) When you are rebooted, hit "CTRLALTDEL" to bring up the task manager. Under the processes tab, end the processes "iTouch", "iPodServices" and "iTuneshelper". These are programs that prevent the updater from "locking" the iPod.
6) Use the updater to restore your iPod to its factory settings. You may see several different error messages, including "Firmware update failure. Disk write error.", an error message telling you that the software you're trying to apply isn't the correct version for your iPod, and the "Can't lock iPod" one. Keep trying. You may need to reboot to safely disconnect your iPod from your computer in order to reset it. My advice is to perform this reset according to the directions, and to do it several times.
7) Once your iPod is restored, reboot to disconnect it safely. The iTunes software will not recognize it immediately because you have yet to set your language preference on your iPod. Reconnect it after you are rebooted and have started iTunes. There you will be able to restore your music.
It took me a long time, a lot of frustration, and pure dumb luck to get my iPod working again. I'm no genius. I just hope that these steps might help someone else in the same predicament.
Thanks.

"You can only perform a reset when your iPod is disconnected from your computer or other power source."
Just one small point. That statement you made is incorrect. In fact in the instructions on how to reset your iPod clearly state that if you are having difficulty resetting you should connect to power, either the a/c charger or your computer.

I have a slight crack in my mac book pro screen it is just on the top of the screen and the LCD display is working fine. i was wondering how much it would cost to fix it/ replace it.

i have a slight crack in my mac book pro screen it is just on the top of the screen and the LCD display is working fine. i was wondering how much it would cost to fix it/ replace it. it is not a pressing matter but if it is cheep to fix then i would like to do so

Most of us wouldn't know that here. Call your Apple Store.

Hate Itunes 11...here's how to go back to 10.7...

Ok...THIS WORKS AND IT"S REALLY, REALLY SIMPLE!! No need to go to risky operations or fiddle too much under the hood, as suggested by some.
Note, this only works in this order...and if you have a recent Time Machine backup.
1. Backup your Itunes folder (I had no problems with this, but always better safe than sorry!).
2. Downlaod Itunes 10.7 from here: http://appldnld.apple.com/iTunes10/041-7195.20120912.d3uzQ/iTunes10.7.dmg . Don't open it, just leave it in your downlaods folder.
2. Enter Time Machine. Go to your last backup and click on the 'Applications' folder. Find Itunes. Click on restore. Enter your admistrator password, if neccessary. This won't replace it but for some reason, it allows you to install 10.7.
3. Install Itunes 10.7
4. When you try and open it, Itunes will say it can't acsess your libabry becase "Itunes Libary.itl was created by a newer version of Itunes". Quit Itunes.
5. Go back into Time Machine and go into, not your last backup, but the one before that (i.e. two back from today). Go into Your name / Music / Itunes. Select "Itunes Libary.itl". Click on restore.
...That's ot!
HAPPYY DAAAYS...no more ITUNES 11!!

Sorry that previous link has been changed but here is how to do it..
That is the only quick fix for the problem at this time since Apple hasn't gotten off it's butt and done anything about this. (The other option is to re-encode all of the non-iTunes videos that do not play correctly)
You can download the 1.0 firmware update from:
http://appldnld.m7z.net/content.info.apple.com/iPod/ww/win/061-2225.20051128.PDW nw/iPodSetup.exe
Open the ipod from the My Computer Window
open this file with notepad (make sure you are displaying hidden folders and files): \iPod_Control\Device\SysInfo
Replace the line that has the word "buildID" with this line:
buildID: 0x05108000 (6.1)
Save the file and close it.
Run the iPod update file you downloaded and when you finish your iPod will be back to firmware 1.0! Unfortunately every time you dock your****in the future you have to remember to click cancel when it asks you if you want to update your iPod to the new firmware (1.1).

Want to set a default zoom level for safari? Here's how you do it.

If you like to set a default zoom level for safari so you don't have to hit Ctrl+ (or Ctrl-) every time you start Safari and open a new tab, here's how you can do that. This should work on Safari for mac, too:
1) create a file named defaultzoom.css (or any name you like, just make sure it has a css extension.)
2) copy and paste in the following:
body {
zoom: 130%;
change 130 to whatever number suits you. >100 means zoom in, <100 means zoom out. Don't forget the % percent sign!
3) in safari, go to Preferences > Advanced. Under style sheet, select Other... and point to the file you created.
4) you may need to restart safari for the change to take effect.
Voila. Hope that helps someone.

Yes you are right!
This CSS zooming is a crude hack. I think it basically treats a web page like a pdf document where you just enlarges everything.
When you zoom manually, safari does a smarter sort of zoom where it enlarges but tries to keep widths of the elements the same size, reflowing text where needed and scrolling only when necessary.
If the web page has a fixed size that is smaller than your browser window, like this forum, css zoom works ok. But with a page like gmail, which has no width constraint, you get into trouble.
Hmm, wait, I just checked out wiki, which also uses up all available screen real estate, but does NOT have this problem.
Notice in gmail, even if you zoom way out below what should be 100%, the login is still off the screen. The font gets real small but the width of the page stays the same. The css zoom basically "sticks" and isn't completely reversible.
Bottom line: you have to decide which is more annoying: having to hit Ctrl+ for every tab you open, or running into some problematic pages.
On Windows, I use autohotkey (a kdb and mouse macro scripting program) to switch off the CSS on the fly when I need to. I think Mac has similar capability built in, right? If I were really clever, I guess I could program autohotkey to send a few ctrl+ whenever it detects a new window or tab in safari, but I'm not there yet.
Bottom bottom line: Apple needs to add this feature. It's a pretty basic accessibility feature. Doesn't Apple have like an accessibility guru/advocate?

My Second Monitor stopped working in snow leopard. How do I fix it?

My Second Monitor stopped working in snow leopard. How do I fix it?
The monitor is not dead I have checked it using the the other monitor slot. The slot thats not working is the one that has the HDMI adpator on the end of the cable. Tried resetting the computer disconnecting the monitor power, trying a new cable. Nothing fix's it. I'm using snow leopard and everything has been fine. I haven't done any recent updates or changes to the system in the last 4 weeks.

Hello @Pandapower,
Welcome to the HP Forums, I hope you enjoy your experience! To help you get the most out of the HP Forums I would like to direct your attention to the HP Forums Guide First Time Here? Learn How to Post and More.
I have read your post on how your notebook display screen remains blank when you power it on, and I would be happy to assist you in this matter!
To return the functionality back to your computer's display, I recommend following the steps in this document on Computer Starts but Screen Remains Blank (Windows 8).
If the issue persists after completing all of the steps in the resource above, please call our technical support at 800-474-6836. If you live outside the US/Canada Region, please click the link below to get the support number for your region.
http://www8.hp.com/us/en/contact-hp/ww-phone-assist.html
I hope this helps!
Regards
MechPilot
I work on behalf of HP
Please click “Accept as Solution ” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
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X-Fi working in Vista64! Here is how I did

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