Yet another battery issue... overnight standby draining battery?

So- my stupid wall charger broke so I've been charging my phone best I can before bed and just dealing with not having a full charge every morning. Last 2 nights, I've gone to bed with it charged between 50-75%, and have woken up with a completely dead battery. Why on earth would it die while unused for 8 hours when during the day I can make calls all I want, surf the web, play music etc. AND go standby for 10-12 hours and only lose 50% of my charge!?!?!?

Why not let it charge overnight? Why charge it up, and then the first thing you do is blow 6 or more hours of standby time while you sleep? I leave wifi on, with mail checking every 30 minutes, all night long, but have it charging while I sleep. And as for your broken charger, call apple and they'll send you a new one. I received a new one the day after I called them.

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Yet another export issue with Aperture 3

Judging by a search of topics, there seem to be a myriad of problems associated with getting files out of Aperture, some of which represent occult setting issues, others which seem to be actual bugs. I've run into an issue which seems to defy categorization, and I'm not sure if it's me doing something wrong, or if it is actually yet another bug with this software. I've been an Aperture user since 1.0 and I have to say the current version I'm running (3.4.3) is by far the worst yet. Anyway, enough whining. Here are the issues:
I'm running Aperture on a 6 core Mac Pro with Lion 10.7.5. There are two thing happening.
1. Exporting JPEGs is INCREDIBLY slow - perhaps as long as 4 or 5 minutes for a 3MB file.
2. This is the one driving me batty right now. Tried exporting a batch of images as JPEGs at the 50% original size setting. The master files are large 16 bit TIFF images from Nikon D800 RAW files, post-processed in Nik HDR Efex Pro 2. They are 80-100MB in size. When I export the images to a file on my Desktop, it consistently exports 6- 10 KB thumbnails. I've checked and rechecked my export settings and can find nothing amiss there. Has anyone else had a similar experience? Could the view I'm working in have anything to do with this? I work 95% of the time in split view.
Thanks,
Russ

I agree that there re a lot of posts about exporting, but a very large number of them refer to the same thing, and it's not a bug, but rather a misunderstanding.
For instance:
Tried exporting a batch of images as JPEGs at the 50% original size setting.
Okay.
The master files are large 16 bit TIFF images from Nikon D800 RAW files, post-processed in Nik HDR Efex Pro 2
Not relevant.
They are 80-100MB in size.
Not relevant either.
Why?
Because size refers to the dimensions of the image. So a 1,000 x 1,000 pixel image exported at 50% will turn out as 500 x 500 pixels.
Were you expecting a jpeg between 40 and 50 MB? That's Jpeg quality or the amount of compression applied to the image. And as you're compressing a lossless format (tiff) to a lossy one, and one with an aggressive compression algorithm, he resulting Jpeg, even at high quality, will be much, much smaller, more likely in the 6 - 8 MB range.
That's the nature - and indeed the point - of Jpegs.
So, if you're getting 6 - 10 kb images, you're exporting at a very low Jepg Quality.
This may also explain why it's taking so long to export. Getting rid on 99.99% of the data and compressing into 10kb is always going to take time.

"Voice Call" in Battery usage is very drain battery

After call as long time (ie. 1 hour , 2 hour or more)I was check Battery usage ... and i found "Voice Call" is very drain battery (4 hour from 95% to 0%)Last.... i think it's a problem of software and then i repaired by PC Companion. After that i checked battery and don't have "Voice Call" and battery still OK,I just try to call again as 1 hour 10 min and return to Battery usage , i found "Voice Call" again , used 48% more than Screen!!!! // H o w t o f i x t h i s i s s u e !!!// H e l p m e p l e a s e !!!

Let's try something, boot on safe mode and make a call 1hour or more and report back http://talk.sonymobile.com/t5/FAQ/How-to-boot-your-phone-into-safe-mode/m-p/348008#U348008

How can i fix iphone4s battery issue? Gets drained in just hours...

My iphone4s battery gets drained very quick...mi just bought it 5 days ago...

i faced the same situation but after searching over internet i'v found the solution to fix my battery life.
I hope this wil help you and every one who faces same battery drain issue
solution:
settings>general>date and time>set automatically>turned off. that's it.
set manually your location.
he solves the battery drain issue for me now i am 7hrs standby on 92% battery indicator.
form this video i got the solution
How to dramatically improve Iphone 4S Battery Life
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F-Sc091sDbU&feature=related

Battery Issue with iPod Photo - Battery confusion?

is anyone aware of a problem called battery confusion?
my iPod which I am sure had a reasonable bit of battery life on it now appears to be demanding I connect to the mains power. A logo of a "plug and a scocket" indicating the need to connect to the mains is permanantly on my ipod screen.
I have done a soft reset on the device, got the Apple logo but when it repowers it will not get past this "plug and socket" image on the screen.
Normaly I charge my iPod with the usb cable on the PC however this does not seem to do anything and my iPod charger is at my parents house miles away.
Any help with this would be apreciated

The iOS 4 is probably the issue and there isn't much you can do about it.
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=2474499&tstart=0
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[SOLVED] Yet another time issue...

Hi there,
I'm having some crazy, hair pulling, head banging UTC time issues on both my dual boot (Arch & Windows 8) desktop and single boot laptop.
I've been searching and following a mulitude of old threads and the official Wiki guide, however, I simply cannot get UTC time to stay correct between reboots. I've installed Arch a fair few times now, both before and after the switch to systemd and in dual and single boot setups and have never had time related issues like this before...
Here's a run down of the whole sorry story....
Fresh install - set time with hwclock --systohw utc as suggested in the beginners guide.
First boot - time an hour out - huh? cat /etc/adjtime and ls -l /etc/localtime - everything as it should be... UTC and symlink to /usr/share/zoneinfo/Europe/London. Nonetheless I duly follow the Time guide on the wiki, get to know timedatectl a bit, and soon after, time is set to be correct. Great.
Reboot. Time an hour out. Whaaaa??. Start googling, finding a plethora of bbs links to others with similar issues, decide to use NTP. Install, ntpd -qg. All good again. Time right. Phew...
Reboot. Nope. Arrrrgggghhhh. (Bare in mind - at this point I haven't even booted the Windows 8 disc, and I went through the exact same process on my Arch only laptop...)
More googling, thread reading. Find out that hwclock and ntp might be in conflict. Delete /etc/adjtime, reinstall tzdata, re-follow Time article to the letter and reenable NTP to start at boot.
Reboot - time is foward an hour yet again. Bang head repeatedly on desk. Then suddenly - 10 mins or so after boot - NTP kicks in, and time is magically goes back an hour to the correct time! Surely NTP should be doing this early in the boot process, not 10 minutes after? But OK, at least something is happening...
Next I dare to boot into Windows, and yup, time an hour out. Expected, but frustrating nonetheless. Add the registry tweak as suggested in the guide, and turn off the Windows time synchronisation. During which I noticed that Windows 8 time is set to UTC by default, not localtime, which is what the wiki says. Is this a Windows 8 thing?
I can't help thinking, that if this is the case, and the Wiki advise is written under the assumption that Windows time is always localtime, that perhaps this is the route of my problem....
Anyway, Windows time all good now, reboot Arch, time again wrong untill NTP finally kicks in - sigh. Reboot to Windows. Time an hour back. Gaaaahhhh - WTF?!! reset it to be correct. Try again. Same thing. Oops, forgot to mention that on each reboot, I check the BIOS clock, which remains persistently correct during the whole debarkle...
Ok, so I try without the registry hack and turn Windows sync back on. Still fucked. I try various combinations of the two, I try resetting Arch time over and over again. With NTP - late sync. With hwclock only, or both hwclock & NTP - totally fucked! Eventually, I give up on UTC in Arch, set it localtime, delete registry key, turn Windows time sync back on, and thus far all good......
TL;DR - couldn't get hwclock to set UTC time correctly across reboots. NTP worked (sort of), but after each reboot it would take ten minutes for the time to sync and the clock to move back an hour to the correct time. Localtime just works...
My question is - why is the wiki (and the timedatectl status output for that matter) - so adamant that we should use UTC? From what I can gather, as long as I boot Windows around the DST time. or manually move the clock forward or back an hour - all should be well, no? Or are there other issues that I may run into that I've missed? The thing I'm most concerned about is data corruption due to timestamp issues...
Also, why does the wiki repeatedly say that Windows uses localtime, when this doesn't appear to be the case in Eight? Does the wiki need updating or is Windows lying to me? I know which I'd put my money on ;-)
Finally can anyone explain why my time was always an hour forward after a reboot, even when the time was set correctly before, the BIOS showed the correct time, and NTP was in use?
Sorry for the crazy long posting, but this issue has been driving me totally batty!! Any light-shedding greatfully appreciated :-)
Last edited by knowayhack (2013-08-10 15:24:09)

Ok, so I set the clock back an hour in the BIOS, booted Windows - time right - YAY.
Rebooted Arch - time right. OMFG - pure joy!!!
I have to say, I still find it odd that this is how it works, and would like to confirm that things are looking as they should in the output from the following commands....
toby@archy ~ > timedatectl status
Local time: Sat 2013-08-10 15:42:56 BST
Universal time: Sat 2013-08-10 14:42:56 UTC
Timezone: Europe/London (BST, +0100)
NTP enabled: n/a
NTP synchronized: no
RTC in local TZ: no
DST active: yes
Last DST change: DST began at
Sun 2013-03-31 00:59:59 GMT
Sun 2013-03-31 02:00:00 BST
Next DST change: DST ends (the clock jumps one hour backwards) at
Sun 2013-10-27 01:59:59 BST
Sun 2013-10-27 01:00:00 GMT
toby@archy ~ > sudo hwclock --debug
sudo: timestamp too far in the future: Aug 10 16:39:24 2013
We trust you have received the usual lecture from the local System
Administrator. It usually boils down to these three things:
#1) Respect the privacy of others.
#2) Think before you type.
#3) With great power comes great responsibility.
[sudo] password for toby:
hwclock from util-linux 2.23.2
Using /dev interface to clock.
Last drift adjustment done at 1376148264 seconds after 1969
Last calibration done at 1376148264 seconds after 1969
Hardware clock is on UTC time
Assuming hardware clock is kept in UTC time.
Waiting for clock tick...
...got clock tick
Time read from Hardware Clock: 2013/08/10 14:43:20
Hw clock time : 2013/08/10 14:43:20 = 1376145800 seconds since 1969
Sat 10 Aug 2013 15:43:20 BST -0.953640 seconds
Is it OK to now reinstall NTP to keep the clock in sync on Arch, and are the Windows reg tweaks still necessary on Windows 8?
Thank you guys SOOO much for all the unbelievabley speedy help on this issue - you have no idea how much this has been stressing me out!!
Last edited by knowayhack (2013-08-10 14:54:31)

T430s Battery Issues..."battery not supported"

so i've got some t430s units with no batteries. i thought that i could get t420s batteries since they fit. when i install it says the battery is not recognized and will not charge.
has anyone used a genuine t420s battery in a t430s laptop?

They will not work. T430s batteries have a additional circuitry. The same applied to T430, T530, w530. Batteries from T410, T420, T510, etc. will not work

Yet another speed issue posting

Dear BT Bods,
I don't know why having subscribed BT Infinity on the promise of better speed and stability that I now find niether to be the case, and beginning to regret ever buying it.
So to cut the chase, and save your time and mine, I am a senior architect working for the core network of a very large UK and global operator, so spare me the script and the brush overs.
I live in Greenford, postal code area UB6 8xx.
The service is painfully slow, and utter rubbish when it comes to streaming anything, and that's nothing to say of the 75Mb/25Mb speed check I did prior to ordering the line.
To cut a very long story short: I have just paid my first bill, and unless the is sorted immediately, then I am going to formally write to you to disconnect the service, and I don't care what the Ts&Cs say - we can always tango in court if it comes to that. I will not be bullied into a 1-year (dis)service.

Probably worth running the speedtest at http://speedtest.btwholesale.com/ and after the test choose ‘Further Diagnostics’ and post the speeds and the profiles that this gives. The mods will want to see this anyway when they get time to process your issue.
I assume you are running over ethernet, not wireless? You could try ruling out HomeHub issues by making a direct PPPoE connection from your computer to the modem (user: [email protected], password: bt will work).
Check the telephone ciruit has not been star wired: with extensions coming off junction boxes between the incoming telephone line feed and the master socket. That's a fairly common mistake than can lead to instability.
Don't forget that the service guarantees for domestic broadband are very different from those expected for the core network of a very large UK and global operator. However, for most people Infinity does provide a fast and very stable connection.

Yet another login issue...Sudden onset

For hours I have been doing work on my computer today. This is not uncommon. Suddenly, about one hour ago, I went to wake my computer from screen saver mode (I use password-based wake) my login screen "shook it's head" and stated my password was incorrect. I made a few attempts to login. Alas, I could not! So, I forced quit and rebooted the machine. Still, the password I have used for the past few years is no longer accepted. I am the sole user of the machine with complete admin privileges. I've run a complete hardware test--nothing wrong. I've even tried other passwords I know to be wrong. No luck. What to do?! I am now locked out of my computer. I think this is a 10.4.9 update issue... Thoughts, anyone?

Hi, there, Mason. Thanks. I had checked this out, but I was holding out on this option to find out a more technically-based answer to the cause of this issue. Indeed, it is possible this seemingly random password forgetfulness is just a fluke and I need to use the installer CD to reset my password. However, as a curious girl who likes factual solutions and answers, I like to see what other people have to say. Do you have any thoughts? Do you think Apple admins will actually read this thread and reply?

Logic yet another complex issue?

Hi all
I'm still struggling with the fact that Logic seems to be the exact opposite.
My Halion Player has multi stereo outputs yet they don't show up. Just one stereo output.
What gives?
Any ideas?........I've trawled the manual (although it would be as useful if it were written in Chinese) and found nothing, this cannot be complicated, surely it can't, it has many outputs, where are they?
I'm giving myself a few more days of torture with this and then binning it in favour of going back to Cubase. Any ideas on this?
G

Halion"s stereo output 1 is Halion's main out routed to the output of the channel strip that halion is on. On your aux channel, Halion 3-4 refers to Halion's stereo 2, Halion 5-6 refers to Halion's stereo 3, and so on.........
So for example, if you have piano, strings and guitar loaded in Halion and you want to route them to diff outputs.........
We'll route piano to Halions stereo 1 ( main out) In this case, do nothing.... the piano will be outputting on the channel strip that halion is inserted on, and you should see a signal on the level meters.
In Halion, route the strings to Halion's stereo 2.... On aux 1, select Halion 3-4 as the input. Dont change the output (leave it at output 1-2 for now). You should see the signal on meters of aux 1.
In Halion, route the guitar to Halion's stereo 3.... On aux 2, select Halion 5-6 as the input. Dont change the output (leave it at output 1-2 for now). You should see the signal on meters of aux 2.
You can of course change the outputs of all three channel strips also. So that you can route them to busses etc...
The output of the channel strip does NOT refer to Halion's own outputs.
The routing capabilities of logics internal mixer are very deep and complex. But once you get your head around it, many new possibilities open up and you'll begin to see the true power of this program.
Cheers

Yet another strange issue with Mailbox

Hi everybody,
I updated my MacBook Pro to Mavericks 10.9.1 a week ago, and a very annoying and scary issue appeared on my computer (I had been using 10.9.0 before, and hadn't been facing any issues).
After the initial update, my Inboxes (I use Gmail) have become completely blank, empty, while in the web interface they appear absolutely ok (hundreds of mails there). It's also all good on my iPhone.
All the new mails I receive are being shown in the Inboxes, but not the ones that were there before the update.
Moreover, some folders also appear empty (you can take a look here http://d.pr/i/CDjn) while they have hundreds of mails inside.
What should I do?
Thanks a lot for your kind help!

Okay, so I removed it and set it up again, but it went back very quickly and everything is the same - seems like the mail info "sits" somewhere on the hard drive, so it's not being set up again from the very scratch.
How to set it up from scratch?

Yet Another Popping Issue with Xtremegamer Fatal1ty

When I start or stop a song/sound, 90% of the time, I either get a popping sound or something that sounds like it's playing a fraction of a second worth of a song at a higher volume than the songs are playing at. Maybe it's just some sort of interference rather than that fraction of a song, who knows. Sometimes there's a pop or crackle somewhere in a song but it might just be the track.
I don't know what the hell to do. I've tried everything: reseating the card in both of my free PCI slots, reinstalling drivers, updating BIOS. I know it's getting a little old hearing people bash Creative all the time but these guys really need to get their act together. I can't believe they would let this crap fly.
Message Edited by genzeleam on 0-29-2008 0:56 AM

Any suggestions?

Yet Another Latency Issue Involving Audio through a 1620 into Logic 9

Hi. Let me apologize in advance for my ignorance, and let me acknowledge that there are lots of tips on latency all over this and other sites.
I haven't found the answer despite some extensive looking.
I'm running Logic Studio / Logic 9 on a 32-bit only 2008 iMac. I am using a Mackie Onyx 1620 [not 1620i] with Firewire InterfaceLogic as my audio interface.
I am tracking audio into a project with both MIDI tracks and Audio tracks. I have established an audio loop as an augmented click track.
I have set latency to a low setting / buffer size in general preferences, and I have engaged "low latency" mode during audio recording.
I have no problem monitoring through my Mackie Onyx 1620 [not 1620i], with no audible latency or delay problem at all whilst tracking.
When I then play back the audio tracking, it is about 240 ticks off -- a dramatic latency problem.
The problem exists even where I have no other tracks beyond my audio loop, and where there are no effects on the audio loop/click track.
In other DAW setups, I've experienced latency in hearing my backing tracks and having an audible delay from latency in monitoring my input track. This is effectively the reverse.
Any ideas? And again, I am woefully under-educated in the area. With your kind help, I intend to remedy that . . . .
Thanks very much.

Pancenter, thanks for responding and trying to help.
if so, you have a misunderstanding regarding latency.
I can promise you that you're right!
My understanding of latency in a nutshell: it is the small but perceptable delay [from "withholding" of signal] caused as a signal travels from point to point -- both (1) physical point-to-point (for example, from Mac processor to FW jack out on Mac through FW cable to FW jack in on interface, through cable out to monitor speakers or headphones); and
(2) processing point to point (from recorded audio track through multiple plug-ins on channels strip to bus or master out, through plug-ins on each of those).
I already know that I likely am wrong about this, or am at least incomplete.
Based on that understanding, the problem I'm experiencing defies latency as I understand it, and defies logic (no pun intended; I just mean it makes no sense, as I'll explain below).
What effects do you have on the master bus?
None. I had none in the original project I described in my first query, and have none on a simplified experiment project I've conducted since (after reading your response).
If you are monitoring through the Mackie and NOT using Logic's software monitoring there is no need to set the Preferences/Audio/ I/O Buffer to a low value, set it to 256. You also don't need to use Low Latency mode if you're monitoring through the Mackie.
Here, I think I understand, but am not sure.
I am definitely monitoring through the Mackie in an absolute sense -- the returning signals from my DAW are coming in to the Mackie and (a) going out the 1620's headphone jack; (b) going out the 1620's master out to a Mackie Big Knob; and (c) going out the Big Knob's headphone jack, or to powered Mackie 824s.
[No, I'm not a Mackie devotee; I just happened across the gear at great prices, and thought I understood it.]
I don't think, though, that I'm "monitoring through the Mackie" as you intend it. For my simple experiment, I established an audio drum track as a click track. Each of the transients falls right on the metronome click/ beat location, so I know that it's "good." I then plugged a Precision bass into the Mackie (channel one), with an audio track in Logic with "Input 1" as the input source. There are no plugins on the Precision track's channel strip.
Because the Mackie FW interface on the 1620 sends post-gain but pre-fader, I was able to turn down all faders on the Mackie except the master out. When muting the Precision channel strip in Logic, I hear NO Precision. *Nothing from the Precision gets to the monitors if the faders are down and Logic is not sending signal.* If I then "de-mute" the Precision in Logic, I hear signal through the master line in the Mackie 1620.
In this setup, I assume I am not "monitoring through the Mackie," but I'm not sure. I think that I'm "monitoring through Logic," and that's why I've engaged low-latency and set the preferences to minimize latency.
we need to establish your setup, how you're monitoring, and what effects are on the master bus. (if any)
In my simple experiment, with Logic set up to minimize latency, and with no plugins on the Logic master, I engaged "record" in Logic (only on the Precision track with no plugins), and I then played simple quarter notes on the Precision in time with the drumbeats in my Logic "clicktrack." By playing simply like that, I confirmed that I am "in time" as far as my ears can perceive. I then hit "Stop" in Logic.
Upon playback, my Precision is perceptably (about 240) ahead of the click track !
In my understanding of latency, at the worst the Precision should have been late because the Clicktrack would have been traveling through Logic's processing and down the lines to my monitors.
Again, thanks a ton for trying to help me out here. I hope that this description makes it easier.

Yet another 3G issue, this time involving the Internet

Right, so 4.0 on, really wish I hadn't. It's become incredibly slow and prone to crashing, which is just brilliant. Anyway my major problem at the moment is the Internet. I'm on O2 uk and Edge and 3G do appear at the top, however the Internet will not load at all and says the sever connection timed out. I constantly get prompted to update my carrier settings which I have done so many times on both the iPhone and iTunes.
I've tried the resetting network settings and resetting regular settings and I've restored three times, each taking bloody ages with the music resync.
All in all I'm just so knackered with it. I just want the bloody thing to work properly. I miss 3.1.3
Can anyone solve this, without suggesting forth time lucky on the restore?

I saw this post and its sounds like it would be worthwhile for you to try. Don't skip any parts and read it all before you begin.
Try going to Settings > General > Reset > Reset Network Settings.
Make sure that Cellular Data is turned "On" under Settings > General > Network.
Do a hard reset by holding down both the home and power buttons until the iPhone reboots, ignoring the red power slider. None of your data will be erased by doing this.
However unlikely, check to make sure that your data plan was not dropped by your carrier.
As a last resort, try a restore. The first time you do a restore, restore from a backup. If the problem is not fixed, then try restoring as a new iPhone.

IPhone 3Gs Battery Issues or Not? WunderRadio or IheartRadio

Does anyone use their Iphone to listen to IHeartRadio or WunderRadio? I like to use it at work to listen to different stations but it makes me wonder if my battery is ok. I have wifi turned off and 3g off so I am using EDGE and I am getting about 4.5 hours usage with 22% battery remaining. Does this seem right or should I hook up my iphone via USB while at work to save battery?
This is my second 3gs as my first definetly had battery issues.

well, as for battery consumption, EDGE is much better (12hrs advertised) compared to 3G (5hrs).
4.5hrs seems not so much, but it could be normal, internet drains the battery pretty heavily. if your phone behaves normal otherwise I wouldn't worry about it

Yet another battery issue... overnight standby draining battery?

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