Yet Another Popping Issue with Xtremegamer Fatal1ty

When I start or stop a song/sound, 90% of the time, I either get a popping sound or something that sounds like it's playing a fraction of a second worth of a song at a higher volume than the songs are playing at. Maybe it's just some sort of interference rather than that fraction of a song, who knows. Sometimes there's a pop or crackle somewhere in a song but it might just be the track.
I don't know what the hell to do. I've tried everything: reseating the card in both of my free PCI slots, reinstalling drivers, updating BIOS. I know it's getting a little old hearing people bash Creative all the time but these guys really need to get their act together. I can't believe they would let this crap fly.
Message Edited by genzeleam on 0-29-2008 0:56 AM

Any suggestions?

Similar Messages

Yet another export issue with Aperture 3

Judging by a search of topics, there seem to be a myriad of problems associated with getting files out of Aperture, some of which represent occult setting issues, others which seem to be actual bugs. I've run into an issue which seems to defy categorization, and I'm not sure if it's me doing something wrong, or if it is actually yet another bug with this software. I've been an Aperture user since 1.0 and I have to say the current version I'm running (3.4.3) is by far the worst yet. Anyway, enough whining. Here are the issues:
I'm running Aperture on a 6 core Mac Pro with Lion 10.7.5. There are two thing happening.
1. Exporting JPEGs is INCREDIBLY slow - perhaps as long as 4 or 5 minutes for a 3MB file.
2. This is the one driving me batty right now. Tried exporting a batch of images as JPEGs at the 50% original size setting. The master files are large 16 bit TIFF images from Nikon D800 RAW files, post-processed in Nik HDR Efex Pro 2. They are 80-100MB in size. When I export the images to a file on my Desktop, it consistently exports 6- 10 KB thumbnails. I've checked and rechecked my export settings and can find nothing amiss there. Has anyone else had a similar experience? Could the view I'm working in have anything to do with this? I work 95% of the time in split view.
Thanks,
Russ

I agree that there re a lot of posts about exporting, but a very large number of them refer to the same thing, and it's not a bug, but rather a misunderstanding.
For instance:
Tried exporting a batch of images as JPEGs at the 50% original size setting.
Okay.
The master files are large 16 bit TIFF images from Nikon D800 RAW files, post-processed in Nik HDR Efex Pro 2
Not relevant.
They are 80-100MB in size.
Not relevant either.
Why?
Because size refers to the dimensions of the image. So a 1,000 x 1,000 pixel image exported at 50% will turn out as 500 x 500 pixels.
Were you expecting a jpeg between 40 and 50 MB? That's Jpeg quality or the amount of compression applied to the image. And as you're compressing a lossless format (tiff) to a lossy one, and one with an aggressive compression algorithm, he resulting Jpeg, even at high quality, will be much, much smaller, more likely in the 6 - 8 MB range.
That's the nature - and indeed the point - of Jpegs.
So, if you're getting 6 - 10 kb images, you're exporting at a very low Jepg Quality.
This may also explain why it's taking so long to export. Getting rid on 99.99% of the data and compressing into 10kb is always going to take time.

Yet another strange issue with Mailbox

Hi everybody,
I updated my MacBook Pro to Mavericks 10.9.1 a week ago, and a very annoying and scary issue appeared on my computer (I had been using 10.9.0 before, and hadn't been facing any issues).
After the initial update, my Inboxes (I use Gmail) have become completely blank, empty, while in the web interface they appear absolutely ok (hundreds of mails there). It's also all good on my iPhone.
All the new mails I receive are being shown in the Inboxes, but not the ones that were there before the update.
Moreover, some folders also appear empty (you can take a look here http://d.pr/i/CDjn) while they have hundreds of mails inside.
What should I do?
Thanks a lot for your kind help!

Okay, so I removed it and set it up again, but it went back very quickly and everything is the same - seems like the mail info "sits" somewhere on the hard drive, so it's not being set up again from the very scratch.
How to set it up from scratch?

Yet another MacBook Pro with display issues (NVdia chip)

Exactly one year and 1 week after purchase, my video controller started freaking out. So just 1 week out of warranty, my display started flickering, blinking, showing garbled clumps of pixels and got progressively worse over the last week until, now, it locks up and/or reboots after about 15 minutes of uptime.
I have:
- installed all updates, including firmware
- reset PRAM
- re-seated RAM
- replaced RAM
- used SMC FanControl to try and keep the GPU cool
- parked the MacBook in front of the fan/air conditioner in an attempt to keep the GPU cool
- ran the Hardware Test, which returned a faulty video controller
None of the above have had any positive effect whatsover.
I've dug through these forums and hunted around the rest of the net for more info. Every symptom points to the NVidia GeForce issue. It seemed to be heat related. Maybe it was at first (even though max temps were never over 180 F), but after just one more day it doesn't seem to matter anymore. The machine is just FUBAR.
Tomorrow, I'm taking it in to the Apple store for service. Everything I've read here tells me it'll be at $1,000 logic board replacement since I'm a week out of warranty. Needless to say, if I come home tomorrow with a $1,000 receipt AND no laptop I'm going to be pretty upset.
What really concerns me is that, if I have to get the logic board replaced, they'll just put in yet another faulty board with another NVdia chip that will do the same thing all over again. There has to be another option, short of just getting a new iMac or tower with an ATI card instead. What else can I do?

bikemonkey wrote:
I think my GPU is borked too.
http://noizesurge.com/downloads/gpu1.jpg
http://noizesurge.com/downloads/gpu2.jpg - incidentally my computer had completely frozen at this point.
I'm pretty sure from observing these types of glitches that this is a hardware fault. I shall ring Apple on Monday and hopefully they can pick it up and sort it all out! Does anyone know roughly how long a turnaround is in the UK?
Yes, your video controller is toast. That's exactly how mine looked.
Just to make certain, run the Hardware Test:
- Put in DVD 1 that came with your MacBook Pro.
- Shut down
- Restart, holding the D key
- You'll be put into test mode, run the default test (no need to run the robust test at this stage)
I'm betting it will return a message that looks like: "4VDC/1/40000003: videocontroller"
If so, your logic board will have to be replaced.
The Apple Store I went to (Michigan Ave, Chicago) told me it would take 5-7 days. I'm not sure what UK times would be like, but I'd expect a little longer.
bikemonkey wrote:
Incidentally, people are saying that they've have logic boards and what not replaced only for the problem to reoccur. Does this mean nVidia haven't properly fixed the issue?
Correct. Nvidia hasn't done a thing about this (that I'm aware of), and Apple seems to be putting the same logic boards with the faulty Nvidia chips back in.
Until we see a new/refreshed line of MacBook Pro's, I think we're stuck.

Yet another major gripe with APE - restricting connection to home network

Yet another serious issue I have with APE is the fact that since very often, the computer just can't see the base station (even when it is located 30 inches from it...) it will just automatically connect to the next available open wifi network, which happens to be my neighbor's... that way I often finding myself surfing someone's else's unsecured network and it's ******* me off.
I tried to delete all wireless networks from system preferences/network/Airport but this does not makes a difference. Any idea on how to restrict my computer to the APE or at least have Mac OS warn me every time before it connects to an unsecured wireless network?
Thanks.

Somewhat easy: I'm assuming you're using Leopard, mainly because I ran through the options from leopard. Other versions of OS X may have slightly different placement or names...
Click on the airport icon in the menu bar.
Choose "Open Network Preferences"
Select "Airport"
There's a checkbox labeled "Ask to join new networks" Make sure it is enabled.
Select "advanced..." (it's a button, lower right)
You can change the connection order by dragging your network to the top of the list.
You can also click on a connection you don't want, then click on the '-' button below it to remove that connection. (and at least the first time, the computer will ask you if you want to connect)
You can go a step futher, by de-selecting the checkbox labeled "Remember any network this computer has joined" That way it won't add anything to your list of 'remembered' networks.
Message was edited by: pariah0

X-Fi Titanium PCI-Express: Are there Cracking & Popping issues with Battlefield 2 & 214

Ok, now Creative came out with X-Fi Titanium PCI-Express, which supposedly should fix the cracking and popping issues with Battlefield 2 and Battlefield 232 since Creative technical support said the probelm with X-Fi and Battlefield series lied in PCI bus. Now the new audio card is using PCI-E bus. So does anyone with X-Fi Titanium still hearing the cracking and popping sounds when artillery fires?

RB30, Do you also have the problem with your onboard audio?
I can only give you my experience and that is that the new titanium works in my set up and I do not have any popping issues in BF242. There are lots of hassles installing the drivers as detailed in other posts. Plus they treat the drivers like they are the crown jewels and do not have them for download on the web site.
The sound seems to be better than my onboard audio. Objects closer seem close and objects far away seem far away. I had an XtremeMusic card but I took it out since a problem always seemed to develop.
I did not see any noticable increase in performance but that may be due to the fact that the performance in my system seems to be video card limited and not cpu limited.
The EAX simulated 3D sound is excellent in BF242.
Here are my system specs. I could not tell if you have Vista 64 or 32. My system is 64 and it works.
Asus Striker Extreme 680i SLI Motherboard
Intel QX6800
Mushkin XP2 8500 4x2GB
WD Raptor 50 GB SATA 0,000 RPM
Hitachi 320 GB SATA II 7200 RPM
Two nVidia 8800GTS 640 MB in sli (underclocked)
Creative X-Fi Titanium Fatalty
Thermaltake Toughpower 850W
Thermaltake V CPU Cooling Fan
Coolermaster Ammo-533 Gaming Tower
Vista Ultimate 64 SP

Yet another dead mic with Win7 64-bit upgrd - Portege M700

Title says it all. Mics used to work fine on this machine under Windows XP. Under Win7, except as I note below, the mic has inaudibly low volume with any Control Panel Sound settings. I've spent huge amounts of time trying to solve this. After seeing all the similar posts (with no solutions, it seems) from users of many different Toshiba laptops, I'm about to start spreading the meme across the Internet that Toshiba laptops can't use mics.
I started by upgrading to Win7 then adding just the 64-bit drivers I need from Toshiba's support site. No joy. Then I started from a clean Win7 upgrade (64-bit Home) using Toshiba's upgrade script. Nope. Installed latest generic drivers from Realtek. Hmm .. some progress, maybe: now with some Sound settings I can get slightly more volume but the mic input is drowned out by white noise-ish hissing. All right, disable any other sound sources I can adjust: disable Chicony webcam driver from Device Manager. Hmm, now mike volume can get fairly high but the hissing still drowns it out.
Toshiba: At some level, this is a problem between Microsoft and Realtek, I know. But you can help us. MS changed the audio model significantly since Win XP, including (god knows why!) giving up the little audio mixer app that used to let you adjust levels for different sound sources. And Realtek's generic driver doesn't provide one either. So just give us a way to adjust levels for different audio inputs! Maybe I haven't Googled sufficiently and some hacker out there has one, but I kinda doubt it ... if it requires driver-level access as I suspect, Microsoft's new DRM-motivated hammerlock limiting us to signed drivers prevents us from fixing this ourselves. (It also means we can't access our ext3 partitions without extreme measures, but that's another rant.) So CAN SOME TOSHIBA ENGINEER PLEASE LET MANAGEMENT KNOW THEY'RE ABOUT TO DESTROY THEIR LAPTOP FRANCHISE OVER AUDIO ISSUES? Just cut, paste, and forward a couple dozen of these threads. Sure, it's a career risk but (wo)man up to it! Audio really matters to laptop buyers nowadays ... without Skype, I'll have do carry Yet Another Device when I'm traveling. Heck, I've personally bought at least 6 Toshiba laptops over the years and I'm starting to shop for a replacement. Anything but Toshiba, I'm sorry to say :-(
Oh, in case somebody has an idea of something else I can try, the specific model is PPM70U-1KC01DB

Title says it all. Mics used to work fine on this machine under Windows XP. Under Win7, except as I note below, the mic has inaudibly low volume with any Control Panel Sound settings. I've spent huge amounts of time trying to solve this. After seeing all the similar posts (with no solutions, it seems) from users of many different Toshiba laptops, I'm about to start spreading the meme across the Internet that Toshiba laptops can't use mics.
I started by upgrading to Win7 then adding just the 64-bit drivers I need from Toshiba's support site. No joy. Then I started from a clean Win7 upgrade (64-bit Home) using Toshiba's upgrade script. Nope. Installed latest generic drivers from Realtek. Hmm .. some progress, maybe: now with some Sound settings I can get slightly more volume but the mic input is drowned out by white noise-ish hissing. All right, disable any other sound sources I can adjust: disable Chicony webcam driver from Device Manager. Hmm, now mike volume can get fairly high but the hissing still drowns it out.
Toshiba: At some level, this is a problem between Microsoft and Realtek, I know. But you can help us. MS changed the audio model significantly since Win XP, including (god knows why!) giving up the little audio mixer app that used to let you adjust levels for different sound sources. And Realtek's generic driver doesn't provide one either. So just give us a way to adjust levels for different audio inputs! Maybe I haven't Googled sufficiently and some hacker out there has one, but I kinda doubt it ... if it requires driver-level access as I suspect, Microsoft's new DRM-motivated hammerlock limiting us to signed drivers prevents us from fixing this ourselves. (It also means we can't access our ext3 partitions without extreme measures, but that's another rant.) So CAN SOME TOSHIBA ENGINEER PLEASE LET MANAGEMENT KNOW THEY'RE ABOUT TO DESTROY THEIR LAPTOP FRANCHISE OVER AUDIO ISSUES? Just cut, paste, and forward a couple dozen of these threads. Sure, it's a career risk but (wo)man up to it! Audio really matters to laptop buyers nowadays ... without Skype, I'll have do carry Yet Another Device when I'm traveling. Heck, I've personally bought at least 6 Toshiba laptops over the years and I'm starting to shop for a replacement. Anything but Toshiba, I'm sorry to say :-(
Oh, in case somebody has an idea of something else I can try, the specific model is PPM70U-1KC01DB

Yet another BtBroadband user with slow connection....

Hi all.
I've been having this problem for over a month now. Just before xmas our internet connection went down.
I phoned Bt, went through all the usual tests to be told there was nothing wrong with them and it was my equipment. Ok, no problem, I went out and bought a new router, got it home, plugged it in, still no internet.
Phoned Bt again, spoke to different person at callcenter, went through all the usual tests to be told that, yes, there was a problem with the line and to give it a few days for them to sort out. I gave it a few days and, amazing, the internet came back on. Problem was it was very slow. Ok, I thought, new modem, fixed connection, maybe I need to give it a few days to speed up. It's been a month now and it's gotten slower. So slow infact that when I ran the Bt Speedtester it said that my download speed was 59kps. This was the same speed I was getting back in '97 with my old dial-up modem (ah the memories...).
Anyway, called Bt again, explained all the above and was directed to thier online guide for improving the connection speeds, not very helpfull. Prior to the line problems in december, I was getting speeds up 21000kps. The line was rated for speeds between 4000-21000kps. My property is less than a 1km from the exchange, my router is connected to the main socket and I didn't have any problems prior to the line problems last year.
I have been searching through the previous posts on this forum and can see many other people with similar issues. One post stated that, because of thier line problems Bt had downgraded thier bandwith while the problem was dealt with, but had forgotten to increase it back to normal speed once it had been sorted.
This could be the issue with my connection and if any of the moderators are out there, could this be looked into, it would be deeply appreciated.
My Btspeedtester results and modem stats are as follows:
Download speedachieved during the test was - 59 Kbps
For your connection, the acceptable range of speedsis 100-250 Kbps.
Additional Information:
Your DSL Connection Rate :286 Kbps(DOWN-STREAM), 888 Kbps(UP-STREAM)
IP Profile for your line is - 135 Kbps
The throughput of Best Efforts (BE) classes achieved during the test is - 0.64:11.33:89.14 (SBE:NBEBE)
These figures represent the ratio while sententiously passing Sub BE, Normal BE and Priority BE marked traffic.
Upload speed achieved during the test was - 728 Kbps
Additional Information:
Upstream Rate IP profile on your line is - 888 Kbps
Router:
Type    Interleave Path
   Status    SHOWTIME
Downstream    Upstream
      Data rate(Kbps)
286Kb    888Kb
   Noise Margin
21    14
   Output power(dBm)
0    257
   Attenuation(dB)
21    7
I hope someone can help. Thanks in advance.

"If line instability is shown to stabilise normally the exchange equipment will remove the banding however on some occasions it does not release,and bt can release it manually but they like to see hub stats that show that during the line has been stable for a minimum of 5days but 10 is prefered" I'm not sure whose brainwashed you with this stuff, however. FaCT: BT retail complain to BTw about stuck banded profiles, and yes they can reset the INP, but if the line characteristics don't improve, it goes back to where it was. They also operate to strict protocol, and don't put lightweight preference on whether its seen a fixed rate at 5 days or 10. Truth is if the line is seeing high noise margin and not improving, it has a problem, and often can't be fixed, or take advantage of 21CN. Or sometimes it can be fixed, by the customer, if they choose to, or are capable of. It's not in BT's remit to fix home induced noise, but it is for the line, if its possible. They (BTw) can change any workiing parameter they see fit on DLM, but the main reason for it, is to run in AUTO. In other words, they don't do it for all and sundry, or at the drop of a hat, without good reason. Hence, they don't set "preference" for seeing stable connections. They tend to let the physics do its job.
Click the star if my posts have helped.

[SOLVED] Yet another time issue...

Hi there,
I'm having some crazy, hair pulling, head banging UTC time issues on both my dual boot (Arch & Windows 8) desktop and single boot laptop.
I've been searching and following a mulitude of old threads and the official Wiki guide, however, I simply cannot get UTC time to stay correct between reboots. I've installed Arch a fair few times now, both before and after the switch to systemd and in dual and single boot setups and have never had time related issues like this before...
Here's a run down of the whole sorry story....
Fresh install - set time with hwclock --systohw utc as suggested in the beginners guide.
First boot - time an hour out - huh? cat /etc/adjtime and ls -l /etc/localtime - everything as it should be... UTC and symlink to /usr/share/zoneinfo/Europe/London. Nonetheless I duly follow the Time guide on the wiki, get to know timedatectl a bit, and soon after, time is set to be correct. Great.
Reboot. Time an hour out. Whaaaa??. Start googling, finding a plethora of bbs links to others with similar issues, decide to use NTP. Install, ntpd -qg. All good again. Time right. Phew...
Reboot. Nope. Arrrrgggghhhh. (Bare in mind - at this point I haven't even booted the Windows 8 disc, and I went through the exact same process on my Arch only laptop...)
More googling, thread reading. Find out that hwclock and ntp might be in conflict. Delete /etc/adjtime, reinstall tzdata, re-follow Time article to the letter and reenable NTP to start at boot.
Reboot - time is foward an hour yet again. Bang head repeatedly on desk. Then suddenly - 10 mins or so after boot - NTP kicks in, and time is magically goes back an hour to the correct time! Surely NTP should be doing this early in the boot process, not 10 minutes after? But OK, at least something is happening...
Next I dare to boot into Windows, and yup, time an hour out. Expected, but frustrating nonetheless. Add the registry tweak as suggested in the guide, and turn off the Windows time synchronisation. During which I noticed that Windows 8 time is set to UTC by default, not localtime, which is what the wiki says. Is this a Windows 8 thing?
I can't help thinking, that if this is the case, and the Wiki advise is written under the assumption that Windows time is always localtime, that perhaps this is the route of my problem....
Anyway, Windows time all good now, reboot Arch, time again wrong untill NTP finally kicks in - sigh. Reboot to Windows. Time an hour back. Gaaaahhhh - WTF?!! reset it to be correct. Try again. Same thing. Oops, forgot to mention that on each reboot, I check the BIOS clock, which remains persistently correct during the whole debarkle...
Ok, so I try without the registry hack and turn Windows sync back on. Still fucked. I try various combinations of the two, I try resetting Arch time over and over again. With NTP - late sync. With hwclock only, or both hwclock & NTP - totally fucked! Eventually, I give up on UTC in Arch, set it localtime, delete registry key, turn Windows time sync back on, and thus far all good......
TL;DR - couldn't get hwclock to set UTC time correctly across reboots. NTP worked (sort of), but after each reboot it would take ten minutes for the time to sync and the clock to move back an hour to the correct time. Localtime just works...
My question is - why is the wiki (and the timedatectl status output for that matter) - so adamant that we should use UTC? From what I can gather, as long as I boot Windows around the DST time. or manually move the clock forward or back an hour - all should be well, no? Or are there other issues that I may run into that I've missed? The thing I'm most concerned about is data corruption due to timestamp issues...
Also, why does the wiki repeatedly say that Windows uses localtime, when this doesn't appear to be the case in Eight? Does the wiki need updating or is Windows lying to me? I know which I'd put my money on ;-)
Finally can anyone explain why my time was always an hour forward after a reboot, even when the time was set correctly before, the BIOS showed the correct time, and NTP was in use?
Sorry for the crazy long posting, but this issue has been driving me totally batty!! Any light-shedding greatfully appreciated :-)
Last edited by knowayhack (2013-08-10 15:24:09)

Ok, so I set the clock back an hour in the BIOS, booted Windows - time right - YAY.
Rebooted Arch - time right. OMFG - pure joy!!!
I have to say, I still find it odd that this is how it works, and would like to confirm that things are looking as they should in the output from the following commands....
toby@archy ~ > timedatectl status
Local time: Sat 2013-08-10 15:42:56 BST
Universal time: Sat 2013-08-10 14:42:56 UTC
Timezone: Europe/London (BST, +0100)
NTP enabled: n/a
NTP synchronized: no
RTC in local TZ: no
DST active: yes
Last DST change: DST began at
Sun 2013-03-31 00:59:59 GMT
Sun 2013-03-31 02:00:00 BST
Next DST change: DST ends (the clock jumps one hour backwards) at
Sun 2013-10-27 01:59:59 BST
Sun 2013-10-27 01:00:00 GMT
toby@archy ~ > sudo hwclock --debug
sudo: timestamp too far in the future: Aug 10 16:39:24 2013
We trust you have received the usual lecture from the local System
Administrator. It usually boils down to these three things:
#1) Respect the privacy of others.
#2) Think before you type.
#3) With great power comes great responsibility.
[sudo] password for toby:
hwclock from util-linux 2.23.2
Using /dev interface to clock.
Last drift adjustment done at 1376148264 seconds after 1969
Last calibration done at 1376148264 seconds after 1969
Hardware clock is on UTC time
Assuming hardware clock is kept in UTC time.
Waiting for clock tick...
...got clock tick
Time read from Hardware Clock: 2013/08/10 14:43:20
Hw clock time : 2013/08/10 14:43:20 = 1376145800 seconds since 1969
Sat 10 Aug 2013 15:43:20 BST -0.953640 seconds
Is it OK to now reinstall NTP to keep the clock in sync on Arch, and are the Windows reg tweaks still necessary on Windows 8?
Thank you guys SOOO much for all the unbelievabley speedy help on this issue - you have no idea how much this has been stressing me out!!
Last edited by knowayhack (2013-08-10 14:54:31)

Another date issue with E52

Hi,
I have a really annoying problem with Nokia E52. The date is not automatically update. When I wake up every morning, the date still remains yesterday, though time still runs well. I have to switch the phone off and then switch it on and only then the date is updated. I don't want to switch it off and on every morning like this.
I have checked the option Automatically update date and time already. I also update the software to the latest version but the problem hasn't been solved yet. Anyone can help me?
Thanks!

I am having same issue. But I solved it by selecting Automatic time update ON. So when I turn on E52 in the morning it still has old date but in second update it with right one from mobile network.
This bug is connected with 16GB card - when I remove it it works fine. Also if I have alarm pending than this bug is not present.
Check if your mobile provider support automatic time update.

[SOLVED] Yet another microphone capture with Intel HD Audio 82801H

Hello,
I have a macbook pro 4.1.
I have been using Gentoo for years and after wanting to change, I decided to go for Arch Linux.
So I reinstalled my macbook with Arch and so far, I can't make the audio work correctly.
My problems are:
- no microphone working
- no switch between speakers and headphones when I plug them
Here is the output of lspci:
lspci | grep -i audio
00:1b.0 Audio device: Intel Corporation 82801H (ICH8 Family) HD Audio Controller (rev 03)
My modprobe.d/soud.conf:
alias char-major-116 snd
alias char-major-14 soundcore
alias sound-service-0-0 snd-mixer-oss
alias sound-service-0-1 snd-seq-oss
alias sound-service-0-3 snd-pcm-oss
alias sound-service-0-8 snd-seq-oss
alias sound-service-0-12 snd-pcm-oss
#alias snd-card-0 snd-hda-intel
#alias sound-slot-0 snd-hda-intel
options snd-hda-intel model=mb5 enable_msi=1 power_save=0
#options snd-hda-intel model=laptop
alias /dev/mixer snd-mixer-oss
alias /dev/dsp snd-pcm-oss
alias /dev/midi snd-seq-oss
As you can see, I tried several "model=" options (mb, laptop, ...). Only the "mb5" allows me to hear something from the speaker.
I discussed about my Gentoo experience because on this same laptop, I had it working perfectly on a kernel 2.6.39.
So I thought maybe some option in the ARCH kernel conflicts with it (I am kind of desperate).
I therefore compiled a custom kernel and removed a lot of modules that were useless for me... still no luck!
As a note, on Gentoo, I didn't have to specify the model.
To be fully complete in my description, on Gentoo, I was on 64 bits and here, I'm on 32 (for different reasons).
And I have Pulseaudio installed, not that I want to but as I like Gnome 3... But even without (unsintalling Gnome 3 and Pulseaudio), I still had the same issues, so to me, it doesn't seem to be coming from Pulseaudio, but I could be wrong.
And to answer the obvisous: no I don't have anything muted on alsamixer except "Line" and "Beep".
Thanks in advance for your help because it drives me a bit crazy...
Last edited by theseus (2011-08-24 16:04:52)

Welcome to Arch! I run both Arch and Gentoo and like them both. I have my doubts that your sound problem is an Arch specific issue (but stranger things have happened).
If my google-fu is any good, it seems that the general consensus on getting ALSA to behave with a Macbook Pro 4.1 is:
options snd_hda_intel model=mbp3
Here's just one (old) example:
http://osdir.com/ml/linux.ports.mactel. … 00003.html
You tried that one yet?

Another Possible Issue with NwSapSetup.exe ??

This is on SAPGui for Windows 7.20 when installed on Windows 7 front end.
Installation server is at Patch 8 with latest SapSetup_Patch.exe applied I am getting an error pop up at end of the install on the front end regarding NwSapSetupUserNotificationTool.exe
I have Customer Support Message opened: 0000773130 2011
Relevant log files are attached to it.
Bob H

Jude,
Were you running as a non-admin user (using LSH on the server for admin rights) ?
I'm getting it on every system I install on WinXP and Win7.
I tested running an install while logged on with local admin rights. DID NOT GET THE ERROR. So can you confirm this?
History of the installation server is: Started as 7.20 Patch 3, Patch 6 w/ Hotfix 3 was later applied, SapSetup_Patch.exe applied, Patch 8 applied and lastly latest SapSetup_Patch.exe was applied.
Check Server - Reports no errors.
The NwSapSetup.log file I provided with my Support message has a pretty clear entry when it happens.
Bob
Edited by: Bob Held on Sep 21, 2011 7:45 PM

Yet another speed issue posting

Dear BT Bods,
I don't know why having subscribed BT Infinity on the promise of better speed and stability that I now find niether to be the case, and beginning to regret ever buying it.
So to cut the chase, and save your time and mine, I am a senior architect working for the core network of a very large UK and global operator, so spare me the script and the brush overs.
I live in Greenford, postal code area UB6 8xx.
The service is painfully slow, and utter rubbish when it comes to streaming anything, and that's nothing to say of the 75Mb/25Mb speed check I did prior to ordering the line.
To cut a very long story short: I have just paid my first bill, and unless the is sorted immediately, then I am going to formally write to you to disconnect the service, and I don't care what the Ts&Cs say - we can always tango in court if it comes to that. I will not be bullied into a 1-year (dis)service.

Probably worth running the speedtest at http://speedtest.btwholesale.com/ and after the test choose ‘Further Diagnostics’ and post the speeds and the profiles that this gives. The mods will want to see this anyway when they get time to process your issue.
I assume you are running over ethernet, not wireless? You could try ruling out HomeHub issues by making a direct PPPoE connection from your computer to the modem (user: [email protected], password: bt will work).
Check the telephone ciruit has not been star wired: with extensions coming off junction boxes between the incoming telephone line feed and the master socket. That's a fairly common mistake than can lead to instability.
Don't forget that the service guarantees for domestic broadband are very different from those expected for the core network of a very large UK and global operator. However, for most people Infinity does provide a fast and very stable connection.

Yet another login issue...Sudden onset

For hours I have been doing work on my computer today. This is not uncommon. Suddenly, about one hour ago, I went to wake my computer from screen saver mode (I use password-based wake) my login screen "shook it's head" and stated my password was incorrect. I made a few attempts to login. Alas, I could not! So, I forced quit and rebooted the machine. Still, the password I have used for the past few years is no longer accepted. I am the sole user of the machine with complete admin privileges. I've run a complete hardware test--nothing wrong. I've even tried other passwords I know to be wrong. No luck. What to do?! I am now locked out of my computer. I think this is a 10.4.9 update issue... Thoughts, anyone?

Hi, there, Mason. Thanks. I had checked this out, but I was holding out on this option to find out a more technically-based answer to the cause of this issue. Indeed, it is possible this seemingly random password forgetfulness is just a fluke and I need to use the installer CD to reset my password. However, as a curious girl who likes factual solutions and answers, I like to see what other people have to say. Do you have any thoughts? Do you think Apple admins will actually read this thread and reply?

Logic yet another complex issue?

Hi all
I'm still struggling with the fact that Logic seems to be the exact opposite.
My Halion Player has multi stereo outputs yet they don't show up. Just one stereo output.
What gives?
Any ideas?........I've trawled the manual (although it would be as useful if it were written in Chinese) and found nothing, this cannot be complicated, surely it can't, it has many outputs, where are they?
I'm giving myself a few more days of torture with this and then binning it in favour of going back to Cubase. Any ideas on this?
G

Halion"s stereo output 1 is Halion's main out routed to the output of the channel strip that halion is on. On your aux channel, Halion 3-4 refers to Halion's stereo 2, Halion 5-6 refers to Halion's stereo 3, and so on.........
So for example, if you have piano, strings and guitar loaded in Halion and you want to route them to diff outputs.........
We'll route piano to Halions stereo 1 ( main out) In this case, do nothing.... the piano will be outputting on the channel strip that halion is inserted on, and you should see a signal on the level meters.
In Halion, route the strings to Halion's stereo 2.... On aux 1, select Halion 3-4 as the input. Dont change the output (leave it at output 1-2 for now). You should see the signal on meters of aux 1.
In Halion, route the guitar to Halion's stereo 3.... On aux 2, select Halion 5-6 as the input. Dont change the output (leave it at output 1-2 for now). You should see the signal on meters of aux 2.
You can of course change the outputs of all three channel strips also. So that you can route them to busses etc...
The output of the channel strip does NOT refer to Halion's own outputs.
The routing capabilities of logics internal mixer are very deep and complex. But once you get your head around it, many new possibilities open up and you'll begin to see the true power of this program.
Cheers

Yet Another Popping Issue with Xtremegamer Fatal1ty

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