Zooming in a photograph in N79

I could zoom in/out while I am viewing a photograph in N82 by pressing 5/0. How can I do the same in N79?
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Try to open a photo in gallery and then select options, you should find the option to zoom.
Hope this helps.
Good Luck
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Similar Messages

How do I use pan and zoom on vertical photographs without editing out most of the photo?

I am trying to make a slide show. When I have a vertically oriented (portrait) photograph and try to use pan and zoom, the feature eliminates much of the photograph. It seems the pan and zoom feature only works for horizontally oriented (or landscape) photographs. Is there a way to use pan and zoom on vertically oriented photographs to capture all or most of the photograph and zoom in from there?

gtavetian
I decided to use a different strategy to convey the principle. It is most likely that your photos will be 4:3 and you may or may not be taking them into a SD widescreen or HD widescreen project. With all those variables, to get the basic ideas across, I am going to use two models with a generalized scheme.
For this post....
NTSC DV Standard Project - Portrait Oriented JPG, in this case 2448 x 3264 3:4. Could be any Portrait Oriented JPEG any pixel dimensions. But best plan ahead for what you have and what you would like.
Manually set the project preset to NTSC DV Standard.
File Menu/New/Project and, in the new project dialog, set for NTSC DV Standard.
Before exiting the final dialog in that area, put a check mark next to "Force Selected Project Setting on This Project". Close out of there.
Next go to the Edit Menu/Preferences/General and remove the check mark next to "Default Scale to Frame Size". Close out of the preferences.
In the opened Premiere Elements Expert workspace, use Add Media/Files and Folders/Project Assets to get your portrait oriented JPG to the beginning of the Timeline.The 2448 x 3264 3:4 will overwhelm the space in the Edit Mode monitor. That is to be expected. The Timeline Indicator is at the beginning of the Timeline @ 00;00;00;00.
a. Click on the Timeline jpg to select it. With Motion Panel/Scale property (with Constrain Proportions with check mark), you want to scale the image so that the whole is shown within the mode space. You want to see the image's bounding box. See the next screenshot. The bounding box is the white outline around the image. It has handles.
After the scaling to get that look, the important information that you want is on the right in the Motion Panel
Position values 360.0 and 240.0
Scale value 14.6%.
The next phase is as before (See post 21 of this thread...but much of that is repeated below and modified for what is being described at this moment)
With Timeline Indicator at the beginning of Video Track 1 (00;00;00;00), go to Tools Menu/Pan and Zoom and click on it to open the Pan and Zoom workspace.
In the Pan and Zoom workspace, you will see that the feature has created the initial two Focus Frames for you.
Do not do anything to Focus Frame 1 in the bin below the image window.
Click on Focus Frame 2 in the bin below the image window and set the Focus Frame as wanted.
Click on New Frame in the panel to the left of the image window to create a third Focus Frame which will appear in the bin. Set Focus Frame as wanted.
Click on New Frame in the panel to the left of the image window to create a fourth Focus Frame which will appear in the bin. Set the Focus Frame as wanted.
Click Done to the Pan and Zoom workspace so that you are back in the Premiere Elements Expert workspace with its Timeline.
In the Expert workspace,
Move the Timeline Indicator to the last frame of the selected pan and zoom clip 1. In Applied Effects Tab/Applied Effects Palette/Motion Panel expanded, (Toggle Animation should be active at this point), make sure Position settings are 360.0 and 240.0 and Scale = 14.6% (with Constrain Proportions used).Then go to Tools Menu/Freeze Frame and set the freeze frame for 3 seconds and hit Insert in Movie.
Then move the Timeline Indicator to the first frame of the selected pan and zoom clip 1. In Applied Effects Tab/Applied Effects Palette/Motion Panel expanded (Toggle Animation should be active at this point), make sure Position settings are 360.0 and 240.0 and Scale = 14.6% (with Constrain Proportions used). Then go to Tools Menu/Freeze Frame and set the freeze frame for 3 seconds and hit Insert in Movie.
Render.
The Timeline content sequence from start to finish should be:
Freeze Frame 3 seconds First Frame of pan and zoom clip 1
Pan and zoom clip 1
Freeze Frame 3 seconds Last Frame of pan and zoom clip 1
Freeze Frame 3 seconds First Frame of pan and zoom clip 2
Pan and zoom clip 2
Freeze Frame 3 seconds Last Frame of pan and zoom clip 2
A Dissolve/Cross Dissolve Video Transition (1.00 seconds) is placed between end of Freeze Frame Last Frame of pan and zoom clip 1 and beginning of Freeze Frame 3 First Frame of pan and zoom clip 2.
Additional pan and zoom portrait oriented jpgs to the Timeline would be treated as above.
What was done above can be applied to any photo with any project preset. The basic idea is to
a. Start with determing the whole picture Position and Scale values as described with the Default Scale to Frame Size option disabled.
b. Do pan and zoom with Pan and Zoom Tool in its workspace
c. Return to Premiere Elements workspace to apply your Position and Scale values to the last frame of pan and zoom clip so that the last frame presents in full clip view. Then go to the first frame of the pan and zoom clip, and apply the Position and Scale values to it so that the first frame presents in full clip view.
d. If you want the whole view to present for more than that one frame, do the freeze frame at each end, with the wanted duration.
e. Apply emblessments as wanted, such as video transitions, an animated graphic flying through the last scene, etc.
We could take this same clip into a NTSC AVCHD Full HD 1080p30 project and do the same, except the Position and Scale values and the Scale % determined at the beginning and used subsequently will be different than in the NTSC DV Standard project.
Please check out the above and see how you do with it. If problems, please indicate where and we will work through them.
Thanks.
ATR

When I zoom in to see all the details of a photograph with photoshop elements 8 the photo become pix

When I zoom in to see all the details of a photograph with photoshop elements 8 the photo become pixelated. is there a way I can anti alias the photo after I blow it up?

Hi ,
Anti- alisa feature only available to text layers not image layers.
you can add blur to make it smooth (if image has not too much details ).
thanks,

What program allows me to create a video by zooming, turning, or peeling a photograph?

what program allows me to create a video by zooming, turning, or peeling a photograph?

Hi Gnika2953,
You can do some simple video creation in Photoshop although it is primarily an image editing app. The next two programs that come to mind would be a video editing app like Premiere Elements and a motion graphics/special effects program like After Effects. If you are a beginner I would suggest starting out with the trial of Premiere Elements.
http://www.adobe.com/ca/products/premiere-elements.html?promoid=DJDWY
-Dave

Pan & Zoom multilayered PSDs. Help needed

Hi All,
I've got an edit I need to finish pronto then another one this coming monday and need to get some questions answered before then or in serious trouble!
Additional details: Running FCP 5
We have a client that wants to do an animatic (motion graphic add)
He want's to be able to import a multilayered photoshop image WHILST keeping the original image quality, if the dimensions are above 720x576 (I edit in UK therefore PAL pixel dimensions), so you can pan and zoom across the image while simultaneous fading up and down and moving certain layers.
I was originally going to edit it on an Avid Adrenalin but found out that you can do some but not all of these things without great difficulty. SO am therefore going to edit on my FCP suite.
I tried last night to import a multilayered photoshop image and made it double the normal 16x9 PAL pixel dimentions (which are 1204x576) making it 2048x1152.
Doing this I hoped it would let me try and achieve a pan & zoom effect, but I found that it distorted the aspect ratio of the clip.
Making it squashed, even though my new project that I had set up was Pal DV Anamorphic (16x9). It dispalayed the newly created large psd as eveen more anamorphic - more like cinema scope!!
I looked it the motion tap and the distort aspect ratio in the motion tab was zero.
I then did a test:
flattened the psd, changed the image size to 1024x576.
I then imported that and all was fine, it imported it at the correct ratio.
Also major question.
Is FCP able to handle these graphics easily.
When I import them and insert them into the new seq I can set that seq to Unlimited RT low playback to see the move easily.
But when I open the nest that has all the layers it wont let me set RT settings, it only displays a few options, none that allow me to view in low res.
The client wants to edit in DV not lower so cant do motion jpg offline res.
He also needs the large images, eg we pan across a models hair only to fade up a layer of a product appearing in her hand.
I don't know After Effects well enough to attempt the edit on that, and I don't know motion at all.
The photographer/ client says he's done all his previous edits in FCP.
Is there an article I could read or is there any advise anyone can give me about approaching this project?
Minimizing render time, work flow etc
Has anyone used Lyric Media's Pan Zoom Pro?? (Or was that used by people with FCP 4 and now FCHD can acheive Pan & Zooms really well???)
Thanks anyone for the help!!!!
d

Tom/ anyone else who can help,
(note: also posted on 2pop erlier, just incase Tom/anyone else read that one, saving you the trouble of reading twice!)
Sorry back again,
very nearly sorted after breakthrough last night.
Just need to clear up one more thing:
An FCP editor mate says he keeps the graphics he's given high res i.e. 300dpi, he says you can zoom in and keep the quality.
Can fcp handle bigger image resolutions? I know it can only go up to 4000 pixels squared but what dpi can it go up to. I always thought it would only work in 72 dpi.
Before finding about about fcp being able to handle higher than 72dpi, after numerous tests and conversations with you, I'd come to the conclusion that:
If designing in Photoshop for Final Cut Pro
If you don't use photoshop's PAL DV presets take this into consideration:
In graphics for 4:3 FCP projects:
768x576 convert to 720x576
1536x1152 convert to 1440x1152
always divide graphics width in photoshop by:
1.06666666667
In graphics for 16:9 FCP projects:
1024x576 convert to 720x576
2048x1152 convert to 1440x1152
always divide graphics width in photoshop by:
1.42222222222
I'm not sure of the actual size of the images the client is going to give me & I desperately don't want to get into the problem I had yesterday of distorted aspect ratios when importing to FCP.
The only question is
If he gives me a photo that's 300dpi I'm going to have a problem with knowing exactly what size the image will be in photoshop regarding rescaling etc.
When he gives me the graphics, I'll check the dimetions in photoshop.
I should check if it's a rectangular or suare pixel doc first correct?
My thinking is that it'll be square pixel coming from a digital camera, and we'll prob work in 4:3 (i've just been given video rushes to combine with the edit at 4:3 res)
Regarding the graphics,
Should I work in a high res and keep the pixel dimentions as high as I need up to 4000pix squared or should I keep it at 720x576 and keep the res high?
FCP works better with images at 720x576 they don't need rendering regardless of the dpi?? ANd also when you step into the PSD nest it gives you an option of Unlimited RT, it even has a dark green line in Safe RT.
Whereas when I work in images over 720x576, (say double that at 1440x1152) the PSD seq FCP creates when importing the multi-layered graphic has a red render line and won't let me work in Unlimited RT or Safe RT, it just gives the option of: 'use playback settings' or 'full quality'.
would it be good to create a photoshop template, so that I can drop the graphics I'm given into that, then manipulate it accordingly??
All advice welcome!!
Sorry finding if still finding it slightly confusing!
Almost there!!!!
thanks for reading
d

Super wide Zoom and Super telephoto Zoom for 6D without vignette effect

I have a Canon 6D Full frame camera. And I just bought the 24- 70 L II USM lens.
To complete my kit, I'm looking to invest a super wide zoom ( as low as 10 going uptil 22/ 24 mm) and super telephoto above 70 mm going uptil 300 mm (both preferably L series USM, with wide openings along the full focal range)
Before I make the purchases I want to be sure which lenses do NOT have the problem of vignetting AT ALL.
I am okay with barell distorition on the wide. But vignetting is something I want to totally avoid.
All you experienced folks out there, please guide me. Would also appreciate any links to lists that enumerate the same.
Alternatively I am also open to using prime lenses, but they are really low on my preference.
Appreciate your time and response.

In most software that allows you to add in some vignetting, you can also subtract it.
Some apps have lens profiles so they know how much vignetting occurs with that specific lens and at various focal lengths.
But you can also do this manually. In astro imaging we calls these images "flats". The purpose of a "flat" is to determine how much vignetting there is in an image so that we can correctly adjust for it using a program like Photoshop.
To create a "flat" you would cover the lens with a piece of white translucent fabric. Put some light on the fabric so that the fabric itself is evenly lit. This means the view through the camera is basically just an all-white field with no contrast or features. Then take a photo (it doesn't matter that the camera cannot focus on the fabric.)
What you'll get is an all-white image typically brighter in center and dimmer toward the edges but the image can be used to measure the lens' specific vignetting (and in the case of a zoom that level of vignetting would vary by focal length.) The image can be used as a reference image with software to completely eliminate vignetting.
A photographer would normally not go to such extremes to get a perfectly flat field (lighting wise), but astro-imagers have to do this as a matter of routine.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

How do I attach a grid to a photograph?

How do I attach a simple grid to a photograph for the purpose of sketching. I prefer to draw from an image via photoshop as opposed to a print out being that the quality is better. There is also the added advantage of being able to zoom in.

See if View>Show>Grid is what your looking for.
You can adjust the grid in the photoshop preferences under Guides,Grid & Slices

Ken Burns: wavy line issue during zoom

As a photographer I work exclusively with stills. Regardless of resoultion/format, images with a full-range K.Burns zoom have undulating, wavy lines. This is especially noticeable in compositions with parallel lines, and further intensified by zoom durations over 5 seconds.
This is true even when optimized by iDVD set at "High Quality."
Appreciate any insights/soultions...

The render bar on top of the timeline is dark-green for good-looking images, which according to the final cut manual, means 'no render necessary'
This is misleading. It simply means rendering is not necessary for playback. It does NOT mean that the material does not need to be rendered.
100% zoom level is as close to how your video actually looks that a computer monitor can display.
You never said what format you're working in.
You always have to render still images. You're making video, and they're not video.

Image size/quality on N79 gallery: thumbnails only...

On my N79, if I use the gallery to browse through my pictures, it shows thumbnails correctly, but if I try to view an image at full-screen, or zoom in on it, all I get is the thumbnail-sized image! Should I be waiting for images to buffer or is this something else that will have to wait for the next Software Update.
(Images are being saved at the correct size, they look fine on my computer or in the camera app.)
Help I'm trapped in a sig factory.

Turns out I just had to wait a moment or two longer, it works fine.
Help I'm trapped in a sig factory.

N79 camera

I've bought a Nokia N79 10 days ago and I have a problem with my camera. I can't find it of high resolution and it seems like it's 2 megapixels not 5 megapixels
When I capture the image immediately with one click, the image seems to be blurred (especially when I photograph texts)
To make it capture the image properly with clear text, I should keep pressing the camera button till I see the green brackets then take the photo.
Is that normal or a problem?? knowing that nokia E71 camera is completely different with clear image although it's 3.2 MP.
The same thing happens when I capture anything(especially text as well)on video.
Please I need a quick answer because I need to know if this phone is defective.
Thank you and sorry for prolongation.

You'll need to focus before taking pictures, that's what the green brackets show. The E71 had some sort of fixed-focus mode by default, and only focussed if you used the "T" key. In both cases an unfocussed picture should focus at infinity, meaning it's okay for taking pictures of distant objects, but not for anything within a few metres.
As far as video goes, most Nokia handsets currently focus at infinity for video, meaning that the subjects are blurred. The only currently-manufactured model which focusses nearby is the N86, which focusses at about two metres. Older handsets such as the N82 and N95/8GB also do this.
Help I'm trapped in a sig factory.

Turning off Camera sounds on N79

Is there anyway to turn off the click sound on the N79? I have turned the warnings sounds off... actually it makes a sound even in the silent mode.
Also, is there anyway to make the power saving setting last? The time display thing? It lasts for like a second after my screen goes blank

In some areas, camera-phones must make a sound by law so that it's impossible to photograph people without their knowing. This must be the case for you.
Not sure about the power saver.
Was this post helpful? If so, please click on the white "Kudos!" star below. Thank you!

Adding a button with zoom function

Hello,
I am working on a product catalog and for this purpose we have used a professional photographer to shoot product photos. The photos are really nice and they can be zoomed in to see every detail clearly. The photos have been inserted into the pdf catalog but because of the limited space they are not very detailed.
Is it possible to add a button or link with zoom function? For example, an icon such as a magnifier or just the word zoom so when a user clicks it, it will zoom in the pre set area to a pre set level and center it.
Sounds quite fancy right? Maybe i'm thinking the impossible... but it's worth a try here :)
Regards,
Rudi

ok. i got it! :))
i have made some changes myself. When the mouse enters button1, button2 becomes visible and button1 becomes hidden (otherwise it is overlapping button2). I have set this in the actions of button1. I would also add the following function: when visible button2 is clicked it hides button2 (this you have already shown and works) and makes button1 visible again. I guess making button1 visible again has to be done with a Javascript in the actions of button2 under mouse up.
I have no knowledge of programming. Can you tell me how to do this?
After i openen the pdf file and used this function and close the pdf file it asks to save the pdf file. How can i prevent this to show up? I dont want this to happen to my customers.
Is it possible to see the exact dimensions of the button? Then i could create both buttons so that they fit in my catalog exactly as i want them, and then check the dimensions and scale my photos to it. Although it seems that Acrobat does something with the photo size already as the photo in button2 is 34mb while the pdf file is only 200kb.
thanks.
rudi
BTW this is really a well thought out solution and i think not many people are aware of this because i have never seen it before

How to Pan and Zoom Video in Photoshop CS6 | The Complete Picture with Julieanne Kost | Adobe TV

In this video tutorial Julieanne walks you through the best way to pan and zoom a “time lapse” image sequences, video clip and still photograph using the new Motion options in Photoshop CS6. For those wanting even greater control, Julieanne also demonstrates how to use smart objects to take advantage of Photoshop CS6’s new Transform attribute in the Timeline panel.
http://adobe.ly/LiGN7k

Excellent video, 5 stars. I would like to see and video about exporting which is mentioned in this tutorial but there isn't such title listed below. Where is that video posted?

My tips for taking good photographs .

Taking good Photographs in simple terms
Getting sharp images:
For best results use a sturdy tripod and lock-up your mirror prior to clicking the shutter with a remote release (or use the shutter release timer).
If you need to hand hold, ensure that the shutter speed is fast enough; this will depend on your personal ability to hold the camera steady, the focal length of the lens and whether or not the lens / camera has image stability built in.
Choose an appropriate aperture for the depth of field that you require; a small aperture (high f number) for wide depth of field (typical for landscapes) or a large aperture (small f number) for shallow depth of field (typical for portraiture). To maximise the depth of field achieved for a given aperture when taking landscape photos, focus approximately one third of the way into the scene.
Buy the best quality lenses that you can afford. A consumer camera body with a high quality lens will obtain better quality images than a pro camera body with a consumer spec kit lens; spend wisely!
Composition:
There are various ‘rules’ for helping with composition, the most commonly used being the rule of thirds; divide the scene through your lens into three both vertically and horizontally giving four points of intersection; place the most important element on one of these intersection points.
Remember that rules are there to be broken and achieving good balance in an image can be more important than force fitting some arbitrary rules!
Crop your image to a shape that gives most impact; letter box, square etc.
Light:
Remember it is light that you are recording on the sensor / film and digital cameras and film have a limit to the range from darkest to brightest that they can record; exceed this and you will have either blocked up shadows or burned out highlights.
Landscape photographers use graduated Neutral Density filters to darken the sky so that all tones can be captured.
The light at and around sun rise and sun set is much warmer than at mid day and shadows are much longer resulting in much more pleasing images, particularly for landscape photography. That said, there are times when the soft light pre-dawn, post sunrise, or on an overcast or misty day is the perfect light for the subject. For each subject consider what will work best and the angle that you will make the image; also consider B&W / mono as days with dull colour can make great B&W images.
Post Processing:
There is nothing new about post processing, it is not something that was invented for digital photography; it is much cleaner digitally, and you have the ability to click ‘undo’ but the concept of manipulating imagery goes back a long way with all serious darkroom printers at least doing a little dodging and burning to bring out the best in their prints.
Get as much right in camera and try not to over-do the processing; a good image can be ruined whilst a poor image cannot be turned into a good image!
Improving your skills:
One great way of improving your skills is to join a local camera club where you will learn from the experienced members.
Alternatively (or in addition to joining a camera club), enrol onto a photography course.
Most importantly, get out with your camera and practice!
Examples:
To see examples of putting the above into practice feel free to take a tour of my web site, link below:
http://www.final-image-photography.co.uk/
Does anybody else have any advice?
http://digitalcamerascompare.com
For good camera reviews.

All very good points. I would just add that prime lenses will usually produce better quality pictures. A prime lens has a fixed focal length e.g. 35mm, 50mm, 85mm etc. However most of us prefer the flexibility of a zoom lens which can stay on the camera and avoids the need to constantly change lenses for the job in hand, or to carry around a large kit bag. So there is a trade off between best quality and convenience.

"Stuttering" when panning/zooming a still image...?

Hello.
I'm working on a small project which is basically a series of zooms/pans on still images. The pans/zooms are quite slow and take place over about 6-8 seconds. There's nothing too fancy going on here, but I notice that when I do a RAM preview or render out a comp, I get small "stutters" in some of them. Does anyone have any ideas why this would be happening and any suggestions on making these animations a little more "smooth". I mean, these things aren't complex at all, and overall they're quite smooth, but there's still times when I get these stutters and I can't figure out why they'd be happening? Would appreciate some advice!
Thanks,
Kristin.

There are certain speeds that sync up with frame rates so that they cause judders, jitters, stuttering or whatever you want to call it. The slower the frame rate the more obvious the problem.
If you've ever watched a western on TV or at the movies you've seen the stagecoach wheels turn backwards at various speeds. This is an example of the problem. It's actually called a stroboscopic effect. Mechanics, in the good old days when cars had carburetors and distributors, used to hook up a timing light to the #1 spark plug so that a light flashed on a timing mark on the crankshaft pulley. This light had the effect of stopping the rotation visually. That's exactly what's happening when you are moving your photograph across the frame at one of the critical speeds. Your eye is fooled and your brain can't process the movement smoothly.
There are also other cases where the sub pixel interpolation between frames causes areas of detail to flicker between frames. The latter problem can be seen by viewing your comp a frame at a time while zoomed in to say 800% and observing the edge detail. This problem can be especially nasty when you're trying to do a smooth title or credit roll. The horizontal lines that make up fine type can almost completely vanish between fields or frames if the text is moving at the wrong speed. You can test this out by creating a single pixel high horizontal line in AE and animating it from bottom to top of the frame. The only speed where you'll get a nice solid line in every frame or field is one that is an exact multiple of the frame rate. IOW, 1 frame 1 pixel of movement, 1 frame 2 pixels of movement, and so on. Move at 1 frame and 1.33 pixels of movement and the line will appear to completely disappear then return.
If you are working at 24fps progressive you'll find that the juddering caused by motion at critical speeds is much more problematic than projects at 29.97 fps. Interlacing, as was mentioned before, helps and gives you a wider range of motion, but interlacing can introduce more pronounced flickering in the detail if you are right at one of these critical speeds.
This problem extends to shooting as well. Cinematography manuals contain critical panning speed charts that list the number of degrees per second you can pan with various lens (angle of view) and shutter speed combinations. There isn't a videographer out there that's tried shooting 24P video and not ended up with an unusable pan due to these critical speeds.
The solution to successfully animating detailed images is to use the right speed (pixels per second) for your frame rate, add extra motion blur to hide the problem, or reduce the amount of detail in the image. These are the only solutions that I know of. They all limit design and timing, but what good is your design if it makes your eyes go buggy.
The best way I know if to tell if the problem is a playback issue is to use a device or program that tells you when you're dropping frames. You can use QT (by looking at the playback rate) or in FC or PPro by having the program report dropped frames. If it's a data rate issue you need more horsepower or a better codec.

Zooming in a photograph in N79

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