Apple TV Video Quality

I assume there is no difference in converting existing movies from iMovie via sharing them to Apple TV or exporting the same to at Full Quality to a Quicktime file and then sharing the result to Apple TV, at least I did not notice much if any difference.
I am though disapointed with the quality in certain situations. When I connect my Sony HD camera to my plasma the results are stunning. When I view the converted file via Apple TV the results are substantially below that of the camera output.
When viewing a slideshow created with iMovie and then shared to Apple TV not all but many of the still images are heavily pixalated. Sharing an iPhoto slide show has better results.
This may also have something to do with the Ken Burns effect in the iMovie slideshow.

Matti,
Some things to keep in mind -- Your Sony HD Camera is probably outputting at 1080i. The AppleTV can't compete with that. You should make sure however that you are outputting at atleast 720p which will require you to lower your frame rate from 30fps to 24fps. In this way you should have similar results, but certainly not identical.
Golan.

Similar Messages

Apple tv video quality vs hd tv and high def dvd's

ok...i know it supports 1080i, but does the video quality of video in itunes really look good compared against say a blu-ray disc, or hdtv signals? i'm sure it will get better (with a hardware or software upgrade?) if its not close to high def quality but want to know what i'm in store for if i buy appletv now...thanks. PS: i currently have directv HD and a ps3 for blu-ray, and my tv's are all HD...

Based on my own testing, the distinctions between an HD-DVD movie (which are true 1080) and an Apple TV video converted as its own maximum settings (which is 720) is actually quite noticeable if you have a 1080 TV set, but at the same I don't consider it a show-stopper. I watch a lot of HD broadcast content that's only 720p, and it's still very good.
An HD-DVD or Blu-Ray DVD will normally be in 1920 x 1080 resolution (1080p or 1080i, generally depending on your equipment). The Apple TV's maximum resolution is 1280 x 720 (basically 720p). Therefore, even an original HD-DVD or Blu-Ray DVD converted to Apple TV will need to be scaled down to 720p for display on the Apple TV.
Further, Elgato EyeTV actually scales these down somewhat lower, so HDTV recorded content could be even worse-off, depending on the original source. The standard Apple TV export settings use a 960 x 540 frame in order to keep the bit-rate and frame rate within tolerances (since a 720p signal is approximately 60fps, and the bitrates will generally exceed 5-6 mbps, which pushes the limits of the Apple TV).
Even more interestingly, Elgato's new turbo.264 dongle will only encode in "Apple TV" format at a maximum resolution of 800 x 600 (and if you do the math you will realize that this will be considerably less for a 16:9 aspect ratio video).
The result is that videos converted from an EyeTV Hybrid are technically much worse off on the Apple TV than viewing the original source material. Whether this is significant enough to be noticeable will depend on your output medium, but on my 62" DLP, the difference is quite apparent (although still far superior to an SDTV signal).
You can get 1280 x 720 content to play back at 60fps at 5mbps bit-rates on the Apple TV by using ffmpeg-based encoders and manually selecting higher settings, although it's been hit-and-miss in my own testing, and of course it creates gargantuan files. Elgato and others have obviously tried to stay with the more conservative settings to ensure that they can guarantee the broadcast possible range of support.
In fact, although most of the standard encoder settings max out at 2.5-3.0 mbps, I've successfully pushed up to 6 mbps through the Apple TV, although such content has to be synced rather than streamed, since even an 802.11n network has a hard time keeping up (it worked, but there were some drop-outs and glitches in the process). Of course, 6mbps content is going to fill up the Apple TV hard drive pretty quickly as well (you'd only be able to fit around 11 hours on the internal 40GB hard drive).
The other thing to keep in mind with DVD movies is that they come from film, which is a 24fps source (based on the physical nature of film). As a result, the distinctions between a 720p and 1080i signal are less prevalant when dealing with film content, since you won't get the full 60fps HDTV capabilities anyway. Interlacing can still create some nasty side-effects, but it's far less of an issue when you're dealing with less than half of the normal frames.
In my own experiences, I have an Apple TV that is connected to a 1080p upscaling DLP TV (native 1080i input, internalized de-interlacing), and a second Apple TV that is connected to a 720p LCD TV. With the first Apple TV, I can notice the difference between 720p and 1080i output settings only when viewing photos, since the remainder of the standard content doesn't exceed 720p anyway. Further, because my TV de-interlaces a 1080i signal to 1080p, I don't get the flicker that is normally associated with a 1080i signal.
On the second Apple TV, I leave the setting to 720p, since that's the native resolution of the second TV, and I get noticeable interlacing-based flickering on the 1080i, particularly with photo slideshows (mostly in the transitions).

Did Apple fix the video quality issue in iMovie '09?

I am a casual video editor and iMovie 08 had the perfect user experience / functionality for what I want to do.
However, the known video quality issue (throwing away interlaced scan lines) made the result unacceptable since I archive our family video on DVDs. I have been forced to use iMovie HD for that reason. I have tried tricks such as converting the original DV files to AIF and deinterlace prior to import into iMovie08 but that did not seem to work either.
So does anyone know if Apple fixed the video quality issue in iMovie '09.
MESSAGE TO APPLE IF YOU ARE LISTENING:
Please fix the video quality in iMovie09 if not already. Yes, the quality is ok for YouTube or Internet video but for those of us who want simple editing to archive our family video we cannot accept poor video quality. Dropping an interlace field effectively halves the vertical resolution. Thank you.

Please explain this in more detail when you say Adaptive Deinterlacer. Are you talking about another program? If so, what program and what are the specific steps.
Also, sounds like you are recommending imovie09. By saying to do the above, are you saying imovie09 still causes you too loose significant quality like imovie08? Are you saying you can use imovie08 or imovie09 with these steps to get high quality video or just imovie09? I guess I just need more specifics on how you do what you are describing and how imovie09 fits into this versus imovie08. I joined this whole discussion trying to figure out if upgrading imovie09 made a difference regarding the whole quality issue. I know it has more features, but I am more concerned about he quality of the video right now. Thanks.

HT203554 MacBook Pro (15-inch, Mid 2010) intermittent black screen or loss of video. Can I still get this problem resolve by Apple or I'm screwed because the MacBook Pro (15-inch, Mid 2010) intermittent black screen or loss of video Quality Program has en

MacBook Pro (15-inch, Mid 2010) intermittent black screen or loss of video. Can I still get this problem resolve by Apple or I'm screwed because the MacBook Pro (15-inch, Mid 2010) intermittent black screen or loss of video Quality Program has ended?

You can have Apple replace the logic board, but it will be at your expense. The free replacement program has ended.
As a band aid you may try the following:
https://gfx.io/
This will allow you to run on only the integrated GPU.
Ciao.

Comparing video quality of AVCHD BluRay discs using Final Cut Pro Share vs Compressor

Up front, I will admit to being a newbie when it comes to using Final Cut Studio 3 and would appreciate some feedback from the Apple forum experts.
I have spent a lot of time trying to determine how to achieve an optimum group of Compressor 3.5.2 settings so that the playback video quality of an AVCHD BluRay disc is equal to or better than one created by using the simpler auto settings of FCPro Share, version 7.0.2.
When using Compressor’s auto/default maximum settings, I experienced the same error message reported in:
Error MessageDuring Creation of Blu-ray Disc in FCP and Compressor 3.5
https://discussions.apple.com/message/12073794#12073794
I have since made some Compressor AVCHD Discs with smaller bit rate settings and compared video quality with a single FCP Share AVCHD disc. Both seem to be equal in providing a very good video when viewed on my new Panasonic DMP BDT 310 BluRay player. However, the Compressor AVCHD discs show some motion artifacts not present with the FCPro Share version, especially when scrolling text or when objects are moving through the field of view, and visible artifacts are seen from a stationary chain link fence and other lattice work in the background of the video sample.
My sample video used for the comparisons between Compressor and FCP Share discs is a 21 minute duration home movie, originally captured from a mini DV, Canon HV30 1080i camcorder using ProRes HQ encoding(1440x1080), and dragged into FC Pro 7.0.2 timeline where 10 chapter markers have been inserted.
To create an AVCHD disc using FCPro Share, Markers are used to set the IN and OUT points, Select IN to OUT from the timeline, pull down File Menu Share, Select Create BluRay from options in pop out Share pane, and designate output device along with picture files for Background, Logo, and Title options. When these are completed, click on Export. My 21-minute video required almost two hours for encoding including about 10 minutes for burning. This accomplished on an iMac 3.06 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo.
To prepare this same 21-minute video for use with Compressor, I again Select IN to Out from the FCPro timeline, but this time use File Export as a QuickTime Self Contained movie including Chapter markers. Then Open Compressor, choose Create BluRay from Template pane, right click on the down arrow in the Batch window and load the QT self contained movie file. From there I went to the Inspector window and tried various combinations of bit rate settings along with Frame Encoder options such as Better or Best motion parameter controls.
I have tried the following combinations of Bit rate settings along with varying Frame Encoder controls and burned an AVCHD disc for each example:
Example A
Compressor set to 6 Mbps Average and 8Mbps Maximum, Frame Encoder settings OFF. Approximately 4 hours to encode although the time remaining estimator indicated a larger value of ~7 hours; not an accurate estimator at all.
Example B
Compressor set to 6 Mbps Average and 8Mbps Maximum, Frame Encoder settings ON, using “Better (Linear Filter) and Better (Motionadaptive)” settings. Approximately 4 hours to encode, not the 13 hours that were estimated.
Conclusion: Comparing A & B Compressor versions, Disc B showed some improvements in reducing motion artifacts over Disc A.
Example C
Compressor set to 13 Mbps Average and 15 Mbps Maximum, Frame Encoder settings ON, using “Better (Linear Filter) and Better (Motion adaptive)” settings. Multipass checked. DeInterlace was checked. Unknown hours to encode; about 8 hours done overnight..
Conclusion: Disc C showed some minor improvements reducing motion artifacts over Disc B
Example D
Compressor Auto settings,i.e., 15 Mbps Average and 17 Mbps Maximum, Frame Encoder settings ON, using “Better (Linear Filter) and Better (Motion adaptive)” settings. Multipass checked. Approximately 12 hours to encode, done overnight. Inserted disc next morning after the overnight encoding was completed, and a few minutes later an error message pane appeared that the maximum bit rate had been exceeded. This message was consistent with the Apple posted thread referenced above. Unfortunately the long overnight encoding was wasted.
It seemed to me that the best Compressor settings for suppressing the motion artifacts were displayed by the disc burned in Example C, i.e., 13/15 Ave/Max Mbps with“Better” Motion settings in the Frame Encoder.
However, when this disc was compared to the AVCHD Disc burned using the FCPro Share, the latter still seemed much better. I do not know what the auto bit rate values are as set in FC Pro, but for me, the quality is quite good AND the motion artifacts are significantly reduced, especially evident with the scrolling text.
Sorry about this long post, but I thought the detail would be necessary for the experts, and maybe helpful to others trying to get started in this BluRay arena. Did I misuse Compressor? I think the sample video exported as a self contained QT movie was the right thing to do? Not sure where I went wrong.
Thanks in advance for Feedback and Recommendations. For now, I’m going to stay with the simpler process using Final Cut Pro Share function.
BoBo

Thank You, Brad, for responding; glad to hear I'm not the only one having similar Compressor issues.
You may have hit on something. Perhaps Compressor's use of H.264 encoding was the reason for my motion artifacts? And perhaps Final Cut Pro Share retains the 1440x1080 quality as it burns the AVCHD BluRay disc?
I had Toast 10 for less than 30 days a couple of years ago, and was lucky to get a refund.
What version of Toast do you have? Wondering if new Toast 11 has improved previous bugs, especially upgrading its Chapter text, pictures, music. I would go back to Toast if it came close to mirroring DVD Studio Pro, or even iDVD capabilities.
Thanks,
BoBo

MacMini - LG 32" (32LB75) Problem - Poor video quality and now no picture.

Hi there, apologies for the length of this post....
I purchased a mac mini 1.8Ghz with 2Gb RAM yesterday with a wireless keyboard and mouse and hooked it up to my 32" LG 32LB75 using VGA. On startup the display looked ok, I managed to click through the various Leopard initialisations. I bought the machine for use as a front room media player for mainly DivX movies and the occasional bit of music.
Once I had installed the DivX codec I opened a DivX file in Quicktime and selected "full screen mode." As soon as the movie started I became quite disappointed. The picture quality was quite pixelated ("noisy") and certainly not as good as when I play the same movie file from my old dell PC on the same LG tv (the dell PC has a 64Mb PCI radeon 7000 which connects to the tv using the same VGA port as the mac).
Anyway just to give the mac a fair go I thought I would try out some genuine quicktime video samples from the itunes store (this time viewed from front row)....again not brilliant.
So I thought I would investigate the screen resolution to see if I could improve things. It appeared the resolution was set to 1900 by 1200ish I say "ish" because I can't remember exactly. I then attempted to reduce the resolution and eventually I settled on one that looked quite clear with the font size big enough to be easily read. Again I tried the movie and there wasn't much (if any improvement). Whilst changing resolutions the screen would go blank for a few seconds but on one particular setting (can't remember exact numbers) the display went blank and never came back. The tv now just displays "no signal".
I despaired and connected the mac to a 17" Iiyama montior that I use with a PC and it worked ok. However each time I tried to "hot swap" back to the television I would end up with no picture.
I'm really disappointed because everything else about the mac I really like. Particularly the remote for frontrow which is precisely what I wanted it for. The problem is I've spent over £500 and now seem to have a lesser quality picture than I had to begin with (ignoring for the moment that I don't have any picture!!)
Anyway my questions are these, answers to any or all most appreciated.
1) what is the easiest way to get my mini to start displaying on my tv again?
2) what would the optimum resolution be? My television mentions 1366 x 768 in the manual
3) If the mini doesn't offer this resolution in the pick list is it advisable to "force it" using some alternative software (ie 3dexpress.de)?
4) Is the video quality affected by the software player? ie would VLC give better picture with DivX over quicktime/itunes/front row?
5) How likely is it that the video resolution of my new mac mini isn't "as good" as my old dell machine with its PCI graphics card?
6) Finally if I don't get results as good as my existing PC setup, how accomodating are apple with refunds? I bought it from a UK high-street apple store. The back of the receipt mentions a "14 day not satisfied" return policy but then goes on to say something about being "unopened"...which seems a little confusing. Ie how do you know if you're satisfied until you've actually used it?

Hi there
the solution was to remove the various display config files in leopard and then restart the machine, this got my display back on the tv (albeit off centre). To fix the "off centre issue" I used the LG "auto correct" feature from the remote control "menu > screen" options.
The apple support site describes how to remove the affected leopard display files here http://support.apple.com/kb/TS2213?viewlocale=en_US As you will see their resolution consists of 2 main steps, the first one involves starting your machine in safe mode, if this doesn't work then you proceed to the second step where you remove the files using a terminal prompt.
I didn't bother with the first step mainly because I don't think I can start my mac in safe mode since my only keyboard is wireless (bluetooth). So I connected the mac mini to a 17" LCD monitor (which thankfully did display the video signal ok) and removed all the listed files using terminal. I then shut the mac down, swapped the VGA cable back to the LCD tv restarted the mac and it detected the tv and set a resolution that worked. I then very carefully reduced the resolution down to one that was recommended by my tv (1300ish.. x 768ish??).
At this point I was back to having an acceptable signal but still a little off centre. So I used the TV remote, pressed menu, went into screen options and chose "auto correct". Picture then filled the screen perfectly.
The problem seems to be, leopard lists a bunch of resolutions that it believes your tv/display can handle but it would appear that in fact some of these resolutions are not supported by your TV and if you choose one of these your signal disappears and you can't get it back.
I would still say that I'm not 100% convinced with the mac mini's onboard graphics (I have a 1.8GHz version). I'm going to download some HD content and see if that improves things, but certainly my existing DivX collection looked a little sharper and clearer and better coloured using my old dell PC with its radeon PCI card. But the difference in picture quality is outweighed by the convenience of its size and the font row interface. I might tinker with putting Windows Media Center on it one day, perhaps that might improve things.

Itunes video quality, my impressions...

When I heard Apple announce that the itunes site would offer selected tv shows for download, I was pretty excited. So today I downloaded the "Desparate Housewives" pilot for $1.99. I was impressed with the ~30min download and the slick looking itunes interface.
I was not impressed by the proprietary *.M4V file format. The media player format is clunky, without obvious controls available when in full screen mode. itunes crashed twice when I was trying to toggle between the preview screen and full screen. I actually had to ctrlaltdel the application.
My biggest problem, though, was video quality. The file was 1/3 smaller than most bittorent tv, and it shows in the quality. When I played the file on my HDTV, the quality was not acceptable. Edges were blocky and the audio was sub-par.
Apple, you are on the edge of something great. People will download TV for a fee, if your servers are fast, the price is right, the format is convenient and the quality is good. In my opinion you are halfway there, and no one else is even close.
If you were to release your shows in HD format and have a reasonable media playback option (read as: make a deal with DIVX), I would accept DRM limitations and would get all my shows on itunes. $1.99 seems a bit high for a low definition file that can only be played on a proprietary and clunky player. Especially when there are free sources on the net offering the same shows in full HD with 5.1surround for free.

Agreed.
I just purchased my first legal download (as well as QT Pro), only to be sorely disapointed with the file I downloaded. As my laptop runs at 1280x800 (and I grabbed BSGalactica), I was horrified of the video I saw.
How the heck am I supposed to put that up on a 40' plasma screen?
I'd pay a little more (not much), for HD video. Until then, I won't purchase another video.
Windows XP

"Best Practice" steps for creating & preseving video quality

I would like help in understanding the "rules of the trade" when it comes to video quality.
I have been converting old VHS video tapes using my Sony DV camera...importing them into iMovie 6HD (mainly because I read that the quality is better in imovie 6hd vs. iMovie09)...so far I have imported around 7 hours of video...into one project...which is 250gb in size....I want to burn the videos to a DVD....due to the size of the project..I'm creating new projects and coping over clips....soon I will have 3 projects that take up 500gbs.
Is this typical? I understand that it is good to save the video in the original quality for safe keeping...but I have 100s of video tapes that I would like to convert, edit, burn to DVD, and save.....using my current process for importing, and editing....I would crash the servers used by Google.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks

Welcome to Apple discussions!!
I have been converting old VHS video tapes using my Sony DV camera
Using the Sony DV camera is an "OK" way to import VHS. Look at the Canopus ADVC300. Audio and Video go in, FireWire comes out.
The program that comes with the ADVC300 has some nice filters that can improve video and audio of the source material. The ADVC300 will take Audio and Video from ANY source and convert it to FireWire (iMovie 06 will treat it like a camera).
http://www.grassvalley.com/products/advc300
.importing them into iMovie 6HD (mainly because I read that the quality is better in imovie 6hd vs. iMovie09
Good move. (use iMovie 06 with iDVD 09 set to Professional Quality.)
so far I have imported around 7 hours of video...into one project
I would limit each project to 110 - 120 mins, and make DVDs as you complete each project.
using my current process for importing, and editing....I would crash the servers used by Google.
A 2TB drive should hold about 140 hours of video. I ALWAYS build my own external hard drive. More storage and less money.
If you are going to do video, get the biggest drive you can. You can assemble the below items in about three minutes.
 http://www.cooldrives.com/ox93saiihadr.html
  http://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Intellipower-Desktop-WD20EADS/dp/B001RB1TI S/ref=sr11?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1258862242&sr=8-1
Use the FireWire port, the Firewire protocol allows more direct address to memory (including mass storage) with minimal intervention of the CPU, nothing will interfere with it, No collisions, No glitches. Firewire is rock-solid.
There is nothing wrong with wanting to keep your original iMovie 06 file, however;
After I transfer a video to iMovie 06 I make a DVD image file (always make a DVD image file first, then burn a DVD) with iDVD 09, then a DVD from the image file. I then test the DVD and keep only the image file (small) created by iDVD. I do not keep the original iMovie 06 file anyway (large).
Regarding DVDs
Do NOT use adhesive labels!!!!!!!!!
Never, Ever, use labels!!! Buy printable DVD,s.
Try this program.
http://smileonmymac.com/DiscLabel/
Printable DVD+R discs. Something like,
http://www.supermediastore.com/product/u/taiyo-yuden-8x-dvd-plus-r-media-white-i nkjet-hub-printable-100-pack
I have found DVD+R to be more reliable than DVD-R. The only disadvantage to DVD+R is that DVD players manufacture before 2003 may not play them.
DVD+R disks are better than DVD-R disks because of the increased error correction technique used for the +R type.
Once you have made a few DVDs you will establish a good workflow, making your project more fun.

Bad video quality of final product when viewing on computer in full screen

It looks like a picture does when you blow it up and it's a low quality image. Everything I'm reading says the problem would be with the video capture...but I have the same bad quality when I'm viewing the menu! Around all the text on the menu, it's fuzzy and same with my video on the menu. So are my video clips in the movie itself.
I have tried playing it on Windows Media Player, the apple DVD program, and WinDVD and I get the same problem when I view it on full screen.
I assume my family will mostly be playing it on a TV. Do you think it will play properly or worse on a TV? I don't actually have a DVD player myself to test it out. Any suggestions on why this could be happening?
Thanks!

when I started using iDVD, one of the hardest adjustments for me to make was video quality on TV screen vs on computer screen. (I am used to satellite to S-Video TV and HD screens on my computer.)
My camera it a miniDV, and playback via SVideo to an Svideo TV screen is awesome.
I was sorely disappointed when I played the same tape back on the computer. It was grainy/fuzzy, etc. Same with the DVD I made.
But when I played the DVD back on the TV, the image quality was the same as when I connected the camera to the TV - crisp, sharp, video and text.
I've since burned numerous DVDs, and the result is always the same - blah on the computer, sharp on the TV.
As someone else in this thread stated, the average TV is low-res compared to the computer screen.
If I recall the spec correctly, standard NTSC is 240 line, SVideo is up to 500 line. HD is 720 line and higher...ergo an NTSC source is roughly 1/2 the resolution of the typical CPU screen, or 1/3 the resolution of low end HD screens. So yes, NTSC output on your computer screen will always be fuzzy compared to your TV screen.
I think you will likely be very pleased with the DVD when you playback on your TV.

What video format is best for video quality?

Would anyone care to comment on what video format is recommended to achieve the best video quality in Encore when burning to a 25 GB Blu-ray disc? I have the choice of saving my HD video that will be imported into Premier Pro CS4 (and then sent to Encore CS4) in .mp4, .mt2s or .ts and I'm not sure which one will give me the best results. Thanks in advance for the insight!
Ken

does that mean that one is not necessarily "better" than the other?
That is correct.
Now, some feel that with the MP4 H.264 that there are differences between the Apple, the Lead and the MainConcept H.264. Each supplier has a "camp of followers."
Hunt

Mac Mini Video Quality

Can anyone tell me how the Video Quality of the output to a HDTV if I buy the correct cables to connect to this HDTV? I am looking a "media server" and I would like to use a Mac Mini rather than an Apple TV because I can do more with the Mini (surf internet, use as DVR etc..), plus I would be able to play DVD files without having to convert them to .H264 format that would take eons.... I currently have a iBook G4 and used the S-Video adapter to connect to the HDTV set I have, and the Video quality is about par with VHS, even on DVD content (I'm not even going to think what iTMS downloaded content would look like). Thanks for your help.

Just to be clear, is this the model you have?
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-TX-P2675WH-26-Widescreen-HDTV/dp/tech-data/B0002KQ R3C/ref=deasmtd
# VGA/SVGA input: No
# Audio outputs: 1 stereo analog (left/right RCA, fixed-level)
# Audio inputs: 3 stereo analog (left/right)
# Video outputs: 1 (composite-video)
# Video inputs: 5
# Headphone jack: Yes (.125-inch, side panel)
# Digital-video input: 1 (DVI-HDTV)
# Component video: 2 (both auto-sensing 480p/480i/720p/1080i)
# Composite video: 4
# S-video: 2
!http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/413SEZ46CBL.SS500.jpg!
User manuals:
http://www.usersmanualguide.com/samsung/tv_flatcrt/tx-p2675wh

Video quality

I just got the Apple composite cables so that I could watch National Treasure on my TV. At first it would play until I changed the video out settings to NTSC. Everything is working well, but the video quality is poor. I'm playing the movie on a Sony HD (1080p) 65" projection TV. I didn't expect for the quality to be as good as playing something from the PS3, but the quality is probably worse than a VHS tape.

I think this is because the high quality or HD movie downloads are not available yet.
The movies right now look fine played on a computer or iPod but anything else will look bad.

Chat video quality...

Has anyone been able to video chat with two or three people and maintain a decent video quality? When I try to video chat with two people the quality drops considerably, and I'm wondering if it's a bandwidth problem, or if it's just the way it is. I'm hoping it's the former.
I posted elsewhere regarding this issue, but didn't get a decisive answer. You can see that thread here: http://discussions.apple.com/message.jspa?messageID=2581668#2581668

Hi Saul23,
It does depend on all parties having a "good" connection.
Realistically this is going to be at least or close to an upload of 1Mbps.
Once one party drops below an upload of 500kbps you can be certain of noticing a drop in quality.
It is best that the fastest Buddy (upload speed) is host.
12:26 AM Friday; June 23, 2006

Video quality of Nano

Got the new Nano and I am underwhelmed with the video quality of the new video camera. I have a mid priced Nikon Cool Pix camera that takes much better video.
Nano users, how is your video quality? Mine certainly doesn't look like the video clips on the Apple site that are advertised for the Nano. Maybe I am doing something wrong or my Nano is not up to spec?
Thanks.

Michael Cuneo wrote:
Got the new Nano and I am underwhelmed with the video quality of the new video camera. I have a mid priced Nikon Cool Pix camera that takes much better video.
As with ANY camera, you have to hold it steady to get sharp video. IMHO, the 5G is NOT a camera. It just happens to have a video camera built-in for those times when you need a video camera, but you left your "A" camera home.
I have a 42" HD TV at home that does a better job watching movie than my Nano, but once again, the Nano video playback is for when I'm on the move.
I just don't understand why all you critics need to tear down the Nano (mainly a audio player, the IP mainly a phone, the IT because it doesn't have all the goodies the IP has, etc).
I like my Apple tech toys for what they do.

60p vs 60i video quality

Sorry for asking a very common question but every thread I've searched tends to go down a tangent that doesn't quite answer my question.
I have a Panasonic camcorder that records in 1080 60p or 60i.
My question is video quality. Even though all my output is going to be turned into 30 fps for Apple TV viewing or 30i for YouTube distribution, is my video quality going to be higher, shooting in 60p with a data rate of 34 MB/s vs 60i at 17 MB/s whether the subject is fast moving or not. My thought is to shoot in 60p at the higher data rate even though it will be converted to 30 fps and possible even interlaced for youtube, due to I am dealing with full frames, not interlaced frames and at a higher data rate. Is my logic correct?
I know the file size is doubled shooting in 60p vs 60i, but if the video quality is higher, then I am willing to make that sacrafic.
I guess a follow up question would be, how does FCP convert 60p video into 30i video.
Thanks for your help.

Avoid shooting interlaced videos!
I work in the entertainment industry and only shoot 60p to be displayed at 60fps for maximum smoothness - not for slow-motion playback.
Shooting 24p or 30p: 1/60sec or slower shutter speeds must be used to introduce motion blur to lessen, not eliminate, the choppy appearance. Shooting with slow shutter speeds under bright sunlight, ND filters are required to control depth of field and to prevent sensor dusts from showing up prominently at F11 on up.
60p: Since 60fps videos will turn out smooth even with shutter set well above 1/60sec, Aperture Priority can be used to control depth of field under bright sunlight without an absolute need for ND filters. Filmmakers - James Cameron, Peter Jackson, and George Lucas - have all produced 60-frame-per-second projects when they are not required to shoot 24fps - Avatar 2 & 3, King Kong Universal attraction, and Star Wars Star Tours attraction - because they believe 60fps delivers a more lifelike and immersive experience.
Once again - avoid shooting interlaced videos!

Apple TV Video Quality

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