White balance Brush

Great feature. What I would like to see is the value of the of the Temperature slider to be the actual color temperature rather than -100 t0 100. Also an eydropper would be helpful to pick out a color.

Paul,
Evidently the slider reads as it does so that it will be the same for JPEGs and raws. Also, I hear that it's a relative, not absolute modification to the colour balance.
If you want to pick a colour out ot the photo for the colour picker, bring up the picker, click the mouse inside and drag from there into the image. You'll have an eyedropper.
Hal

Similar Messages

  • Please add white balance adjustment to brush tool!!

    Please add to the brush tool the ability to adjust white balance.  I know you can currently paint a color over areas, but I would like to see a true white balance control in a brush.  This would be quite useful for wedding or event photographers who shoot quickly in varied lighting often without flash.

    More specifically, I would like to paint at 5500k or 3500k or whatever color temp I choose, measure, detect, or feel so inclined to.  Like I said before, I realize the paint with tint works, but painting a white balance would be much easier.  I never mentioned accurate.  Accurate photographs in mixed lighting usually look bad (especially when you mix in fluorescent).  My clients don't want "accurate" photos, they want what they remembered the event to look like.  I don't feel the need to suggest the current features fail in any way to make a suggested improvement upon those features.  The current (LR2) demosiac engine works well, but LR3 got an overhaul.  Was demosiac in LR1 and LR2 a failure?  I believe my suggestion is consistent with the intent of LR.  While painting a warming or cooling color would certainly achieve the desired results, painting a preset color balance or manual temp/tint would be quicker.  It makes for a better workflow.

  • White Balance pipette request for adjustment brushes

    Just a suggestion in the hope that this gets introduced..
    could we have the white balance sample pipette on the adjustment brush so that it is even easier to apply localised colour correction?
    Cheers
    Scot

    I imagine sample white balance from an image means the same for localised adjustment brushes as it does when using the white balance pipette in the Basic panel.
    click the white balance pipette or shortcut key W... move the pipette over an area you expect to be colour neutral, click and voila.. (Temp & Tint sliders adjusted to a neutral balance)
    at least that is what I would hope to happen

  • White balance selector tool in LR

    just a general question here: when using the "white balance selector" eyedropper tool in LR, is this effectively equivalent to neutralizing the greys in PS, i.e. via the midtones eyedropper in a levels adjustment? just curious...

    If you have both PS/Adobe Camera Raw and LR applications, you may find this this link helpful:
    http://forums.adobe.com/message/3436153?tstart=0
    I have both PS CS5 and LR 3, but do 99% of my digital camera and scanner image processing in LR. For things like dust spot removal on slide and negative scans PS CS5 spot healing brush and clone stamp tools are superior to LR's. I also don't need "spot removal" and initial frame cropping of scans to be non-destructive. Once this is done I open in LR and do everything else non-destructively.

  • Can you select different areas for white balance?

    LR3.4
    I have a whole selection of photos that were taken at an event where there was 2 types of lighting, so the people in the back of the shots have a warm orangey glow and the people at the front have the day light. What would be ideal would be the option to adjust the white balance on 2 separate areas, but I can't seem to find this in Lightroom? is it possible or will I need to export 2 versions and merge in photoshop etc?

    This is possible in Lightroom 4 by using the Paint with WB in the Adjustment Brush or the Graduated Filter tool.
    In Lightroom 3, you can 'fake' it by painting with a bluish or orange tint at about 5-10% saturation of the color swatch.  Matt Kloskowski had a video on it a couple of years ago. Not the best solution but yet another reason to upgrade (unless you are using XP)

  • 3500K vs. 5500K and White Balance

    I have always used 3500K fluorescent in the studio. I've been looking at upgrading my lighting (from work lamps), but almost everything out there seems to be 5400-5600K (for example, see http://gear.digitaljuice.com/products/products.asp?pid=2575).
    I asked a professional I know about this and he made this statement, "If I do a white balance, then it shouldn't matter".
    Could someone please explain to me how it is that I can shoot using daylight temperature lighting (5400-5600K) in a studio, do a white balance, and get studio color (3200-3500K)? I mean, isnt' that what is being suggested by the pro?
    And doesn't this mean that if I want daylight temperature, I should never do a white balance (and vice versa)?
    Many thanks, everyone.
    Paul

    Steven,
    I don't know about you, but I'm out of the work lamp and mounting business. Been working with them for 3 years and the headaches the accompany them are simply not worth it anymore.
    They use cheap clamps, and they slide and are easily moved by brushing up against them or sometimes even if something close to them or attached to them is moved. If you put work lamps on arms from the wall, especially if there is more than one lamp per arm, adjusting one will inevitably throw off any others. So it's constant frustration with readjusting. I forced back to the waveform using OnLocation CS4 in an attempt to get that tight, thin horizontal line.
    Then there's the issue of placement. Subject is standing, sometimes sitting--on a chair--on a stool. Interview format means readjusting the lights to the other guy sitting at the opposite angle (if using one camera and shooting the two subjects separately), etc., etc.
    All this just means lost hours and even days--at least it has for me. The ability to have real background lights and 3-point lighting on stands (all with softboxes or otherwise sufficiently diffused) quickly and easily reposition them, knowing I don't have to mess around with making homemade flags and snoots using Black Foil or some other impractical contraption, even bounce cards, are just another way of not doing it right (although, bounce is certainly a legitimate and commonly used technique). Plus, I can go on location with real lights and set up quickly and easily.
    And the list goes on . . . for every project or even scene change. Blues, despair, anguish. Ugh!
    Those fold-up-small reflectors are cool. My friend has them. He likes them a lot.
    shooternz,
    Thanks for joining the conversation.
    overlighting a green screen ✔ I am aware of that and am going for the Flat even  lighting you mention. Had it only once before with the work lamps, but those days are over.
    If using point sources...pull them way back ✔ That's what is frustrating me now. I moved them back so I could move the subject back in order to gain a higher field of view. Not sure if my HVX-200p can do something to compensate for that. But yeah, they're too close and last time, when I had them way back and it worked quite well in the key, I didn't even have them diffused.
    What if I'm using lighting: like these? Do you think 4-point lighting of the green screen would be best? If so, how does this affect your statement that 2 stops under the subject key exposure is recommended?
    Proper distance of subject from  screen is essential. ✔ Right. See #3. I had 5-6 feet previously and that keyed well.
    LEDs are not the way to light Chroma Screens (or anything else in my opinion). ✔ LED's are off the list.
    Troy,
    there are light spots and the dark spots ✔ I know. I don't have them positioned yet, but even if I did, they are too close and don't disperse sufficiently.
    I think you need stronger lights ✔ Investigating now which real lights to buy.
    you want a backing light, or two, behind the subject. ✔Always do that.
    So far, I'm liking the lights in this link, mostly for the brightness and softness I'm after, for both the subject (3-point) and green screen. However, I'm still open to further suggestions.
    Sincere thanks to everyone. This has been a great thread.
    Paul

  • Partial white balance sliders missing

    Hello everyone,
    I'm using LR 5.2 and have seen tutorials where local white balance adjustments are possible with the graduated filter or brush tool.
    With my LR these sliders are missing. I can change saturation, contrast, etc., but not the white balance. Could this not be part of the student version? The screenshot to the left shows my screen, the one to the right shows the sliders I'm looking for.
    Thanks alot,
    MikeMike

    The student version is identical except in licensing and price.
    See the lightning bolt to the right of where it says OriginalFoto under the histogram?  That means you’re not using the latest process version—probably because you’re working on an old photo that was imported in a previous version of LR.
    Go down to the bottom of your right-hand panel in Develop and look at the top of the Camera Calibration section and change the Process from 2010 to 2012.  You can also change the PV using Settings / Process / 2012 in the menus.
    Be aware that there is not a 100% translation from PV2010 to PV2012 toning values so the look of the image will change a little, and may need reworking.

  • Anyone else want to see multiple white balance points?

    I would like to see multiple white balance points as an option when color balancing.
    AK

    I would like to see a brush that would apply a different white balance to an area;  e.g. incandescent auditorium lighting with projection screen needing separate balance.  Similarly, a brush that would apply effects within a clickable or shaped border  would greatly help.
    Also, superimposing two images as layers would really help; e.g. for HDR effects, etc., without exporting to external editor.

  • White Balance Metadata not showing in Adobe Bridge CS6

    Hi there, I am running Bridge CS6 on a Mac, and use Canon 5D and 5DMark 111 cameras. I have an issue with Bridge which I can not seem to figure out. Whether I shoot Raw or JPG and I am trying to do some testing for white balance, once I open the images in Bridge, in the little icon panel just below the folders/favourites panel etc I can see the f stop info, speed, metering , ISO etc, but the only icons I get for WB are if use auto - then I see AUTO.  But when I do a manual WB like 'cloudy', 'tungsten', or 'shade' etc all I get are the symbols for 'Custom" or "Manual".  How do I get the actual symbols for what type of WB i've chosen to show up? 
    I have purged the Cache - both in the individual folder and the overall Cache in preferences.  I have checked that all the boxes are ticked in the preferences panel for the Metadata.  So not sure what else to do.
    Cheers D

    Ok thanks for that, at least I wont be chasing my tail.
    I did install the DNG converter 8.3 but I still NEF files as a NEF icon. Any clues to what I may not be doing right there?

  • Adobe Bridge - White balance metadata

    When I browse raw files from my Canon EOS Rebel XT/350D in Adobe Bridge I always look at the Metadata tab to check for the f-stop value, speed, white balance settings, etc. of the currently-selected raw image file.
    I noticed that the pictures shot in Automatic White Balance appear on the upper-left portion of the Metadata tab as an icon indicating AWB. However, whenever I take pictures with manually-set white balances, such as shade, day light, tungsten, etc., the metadata tab no longer indicates the white balance I chose, instead, it either shows an icon of a camera or two dashes, as in --.
    Is there any way I can set Adobe Bridge to show the appropriate White Balance icon for pictures I take with manually-set white balances?

    Hi Curt,
    Thanks for your reply. Yes, White Balance is checked in preferences/metadata. All of the Exposure metadata entries are also checked.
    I forgot to mention that my version of Camera Raw is 4.5 (the latest).
    You know, although White Balance is checked, I cannot find a White Balance text entry on any of the metadata lists (File properties, IPTC core, Camera Data (EXIF), etc.). The only place where I can see the White Balance setting in on the upper left corner of the Metadata tab, under the f-stop value.
    Here is a personal question for you: When you browse your pictures in Adobe Bridge and you select one that was taken with a specific White Balance (not Auto), does your Adobe Bridge display an icon for that particular White Balance setting? I just want to eliminate the possibility that this happening only in my computer.
    Thanks a lot for your time and attention.

  • Imported images are given "flash" as white balance

    Since I implemented LR3 and played around a.o. with some presets, all of my images (RAW) at import are transformed to the "flash" white balance, as shown in the Library right colomn and as can be seen in the image.
    The images come out of the camera with a wb-info as the one set to the camera when shooting the image, so no problem with the camera. So I suspected some initial preset, but couldn't find it. Then, I imported the files into Photoshop 4 and Elements, and exactly the same thing happens: they convert immediately to the flash WB. So, is there a settings file that is shared by all three programs?
    I checked the same files on my lap-top with LR3, and there LR shows the wb settings that I set on my camera; so the problem is with settings on my one PC.
    Has anybody any idea how to get rid of this setting?
    Rob

    robijsselstein wrote:
    My surprise is that the other programs use the same defaults apparently
    The Default you set in LR is valid for ACR, no matter whether used under LR or under PS/PSE. Their values are also stored in the Camera Raw settings directory, not in the LR directory.
    Beat

  • Can you remove the camera white balance setting in Aperture

    I have a Canon 7D and use Aperture for processing and storing my images.
    With the Canon I shoot both video and still and frequently adjust the white balance in the camera.  I make a frequent mistake in leaving the wrong white balance setting on - eg when taking video indoors in the evening  I set the white balance to indoors (the Canon seems poor at white balance decision making on video) and then I forget I'm not using auto white balance and switch to taking a photo with flash.  The result is a horrible blue photo - which if I don't spot the problem at the time seems very hard to correct afterwards.
    I use the Aperture white balance adjustments frequently but unless there is a patch or white or grey I an use the dropper on, I find this particular situation seems to be right off the scale of what I can fix in Aperture.  I end up with sliders at the extremes of the scales and no intuitive sense of what numbers to type in manually to try and get realistic colour - so I often end up discarding these photos even if the shot itself is something I'd like to use.
    So my question is given I'm importing RAW, is there a way to show the phoo without the (wrong) white balance setting I applied in the camera, to let me choose white balance from scratch?
    Or if not, do you have any advice about how to adjust from this very bluey unrealistic colour of image?

    Kirkby - thanks for the quick reply.
    Didn't know you could drag inside a value field - that's helpful.
    But being able to get different numbers on the slider isn't the root of my problem.
    In a specific example I have two photos - one taken with white balance set to flash and the photo was with flash, where after a bit of tweaking to get the colour I want the temp slider is at 5000K (and tint 0).  The second photo has my shooting error with interior lighting white balance but taken with flash.  The two shots were taken from almost the same point of the same view (but different people in frame).  The shot with the white balance error comes off camera horribly blue coloured. I can fiddle with the two sliders - I take temperature to 20000K and tint to 40 to do the best with it I can, and with those settings one of the two faces is approaching flesh colour but the wall behind the subjects (which is a light blue in reality) is now appearing light yellow in places.  I just can't get a good looking colour effect no matter ow extreme the slider settings.
    I may have phrased my question badly - as I totally agree you can't show a raw without a colour setting - so maybe I'm better asking to be able to use a different colour setting on the raw data rather than having to start with adjustments on top of my white balance mistake.
    Given the two shots were in the same place against the same background and the same lighting (both with flash) it seems to me I ought to be able to get a similar colour effect on both and I just can't.  To illustrate here are the two photos (the one on the left was shot with flash wb and in Aperture I'm viewing it with 5000K and 0 tint, the one on the right was shot with indoor wb and in Aperture I'm viewing it with 20000K and 40 tint and it looks terrible!)
    https://www.box.com/shared/qle3t6ovyhrd1egez3vc

  • Lightroom: Why does auto white balance no longer work after changing the camera calibration profile?

    I'm using NEF raw files from Nikon.
    Lets say for example I import a NEF file into Lightroom (v4) and click on 'auto' for white balance. The white balance in the image is  adjusted correctly (somewhat). However, if I then change the camera profile (in the camera calibration section) from 'adobe standard' to 'camera standard' then the white balance in the image becomes very wrong. I then have to set the white balance back to 'as shot' and correct it manually instead.
    Why would 'auto white balance' no longer work just because I change the profile from 'adobe standard' to 'camera standard'?
    Any ideas?

    Works as expected here...
    Which Lr version and what OS??

  • White Balance Correction

    Hi all,
    This might be a question which is too "simple" for Aperture but here goes...
    I am used to using Adobe or Nikon products to edit my RAW images, in those apps you could change white balance as if you were in camera (ie: daylight, shade, flash etc...). In Aperture it seems the only way I can adjust white balance is to click somewhere in the image which is white, is this correct?
    Appreciate it.
    MBP 15'' 2.16   Mac OS X (10.4.6)  

    I think it what would put Aperture in a
    better position would be to use the same system as
    the competition
    How can Aperture surpass the competition by copying them? The current system is workable for saving presets. I am looking for something much better out of Apple in the next revision of Aperture than just 'copying' the competition.
    Aperture is innovative and ground-breaking software in many areas. We will have to wait a bit longer for them to fill in some weaker spots in a application.

  • White Balance Tool

    I am using the following:
    latest CS4 version
    latest camera raw version
    MAC 10.5.5
    Can anyone help please - I open bridge, then open a raw file in camera raw. I then use the white balance tool. I go over the image with this tool to see the pixel values - but there are no pixel info showing on the R G B settings on the right (just below the graph). In Photoshop, this tool is working fine.
    Is there a preference setting to activate this tool to work properly in camera raw?

    Well, I have tested it again and the preference to start Bridge at log in, seems to be doing it. I ticked this off, closed down and started Bridge manually and the tool fully works OK with my work space. But could be something else, I don't know, but starting Bridge at log in on my computer seems to be this.
    The saved work space I have set up as follows - on the left side of screen I have placed my favorites, folders, collections panels at top left, then underneath these, I have placed filter, metadata, keywords panels. I have no panels on the right and just have big thumbnails on the main area.
    Anyway, thanks again, I can live with this now, I just start Bridge manually :-)

Maybe you are looking for

  • Toshiba All-in-One DX1210 - remote stopped working

    Hi, I have a DX1210 (PQQ09A-02900G), and I have an issue where the remote works fine when I start the machine for about 15-20 mins, then it just stops working. There are no errors and can't find anything in the event logs. Only way to get it to work

  • Annoying Ipod Synching Problem!!!- Laptop Crash- Now On Another Comp

    I Have a Very Annoying and frustrating Problem with my Ipod Classic (80GB). Recently my laptop Crashed and i got all the music onto my main computer now. The Problem now is getting the music onto my ipod. I Synched it to the computer, Therefore It er

  • !Need 64 bit version of Premiere Elements 10 for new W7 machine.

    I need to download a 64 bit version of premiere elements 10 to use on my new w7 64bit.  I have a 32 bit verson that wont work.  Or a workaround if available.

  • Can't leave "Set Up Your iPod"

    This is over week 3 with these issues. First it was "corrupt and unreadable" now I finally got though to the restore button and have restored it about 5 times. I have also changed the drive name to try to fix this. Any change I make, adding tracks, i

  • Pulling out my Hair, need some help from experts out there

    Hi - I have been struggling with an issue for a week now and I was wondering if one of you can help me to solve my issue. I have done numerous searches on this topic which got me somewhat in the right direction but I'm still not getting the results I