10.4.4 screwed my drive?

Ever since this update I can no longer burn cd's/dvd's (errors 0x8002006E, 0x80020022 & 0x8002006D, loads of strange drive noise, crashes itunes, will only read some disks (both cd's & dvd's) doesn't seem to matter what brand or whether they are proprietary or burnt.
Have not had any problems with drive (Pioneer DVD-RW DVR-117) until this. Out of warranty (of course).
Anyone else?
Dual 2ghz G5 Powermac Mac OS X (10.4.4)

I have been having exactly the same problem. I burn a lot of videos. I have given up directly burning the dvds, instead I burn to a disc image and use disc utility to try to burn them. Even with this, I am having boatloads of problems burning discs. I have resorted to copying a disc image to my sons mac mini and burning them from there. This is really frustrating.
What seems to work is to use disc utility to repair the permissions on my primary drive and disc repair on the secondary drive. I have 2 250 gig internal hard drives. Then restart the computer. This seems to work for a few burns.
Really irritating

Similar Messages

Screwed Radeon Driver?

This is a big of a lengthy explanation of the problem. I have a simple question, so if you're only interested in that, scroll to the last paragraph.
Okay, so I'm probably going to just buy a new graphics card (rather, get a new replacement for free via Applecare), because by reading ATI's support stuff I'm guessing the card itself is just defective, but I've been trying to fix the issue myself because I like Apple and don't want to screw them out of money even though I paid good money for the Applecare.
So, my computer has had problems ever since installing Leopard. At some point, it was determined that this was due to the graphics card overheating. I blew out a bunch of dust, and presto! For the most part, the machine worked perfectly. And all was good.
However, leaving the machine on for any serious amount of time, or playing a graphically intensive game, results in similar issues from before, i.e., Unwanted lines/noise on the display or as bad as hard crashes or the screen going dark. Playing a game results in severe display distortion and an overload of graphical artifacts from having to draw so much, I suppose. I understand that Leopard is a VRAM hog, but I feel like a Mac Pro should at least be able to display what it should, you know?
I've taken compressed air to the inside of my machine, to no avail. I upgraded the Radeon x1900 firmware as well. I have been looking for a new driver, but ATI's website only has up to 10.4, and no word of 10.5 to be found.
My question is simple: Can I install the 10.4 driver without completely screwing my system? I don't know enough about drivers to know whether or not this could be potentially harmful to the system or not (I would assume it could be, at least). Does anyone know if this might actually fix the problem? It would appear that my system completely crashes once my northbridge temp. rises somewhere about 75 degrees C, which appears to be linked directly to the heat emanating from the graphics card.

This is a big of a lengthy explanation of the problem. I have a simple question, so if you're only interested in that, scroll to the last paragraph.
Okay, so I'm probably going to just buy a new graphics card (rather, get a new replacement for free via Applecare), because by reading ATI's support stuff I'm guessing the card itself is just defective, but I've been trying to fix the issue myself because I like Apple and don't want to screw them out of money even though I paid good money for the Applecare.
So, my computer has had problems ever since installing Leopard. At some point, it was determined that this was due to the graphics card overheating. I blew out a bunch of dust, and presto! For the most part, the machine worked perfectly. And all was good.
However, leaving the machine on for any serious amount of time, or playing a graphically intensive game, results in similar issues from before, i.e., Unwanted lines/noise on the display or as bad as hard crashes or the screen going dark. Playing a game results in severe display distortion and an overload of graphical artifacts from having to draw so much, I suppose. I understand that Leopard is a VRAM hog, but I feel like a Mac Pro should at least be able to display what it should, you know?
I've taken compressed air to the inside of my machine, to no avail. I upgraded the Radeon x1900 firmware as well. I have been looking for a new driver, but ATI's website only has up to 10.4, and no word of 10.5 to be found.
My question is simple: Can I install the 10.4 driver without completely screwing my system? I don't know enough about drivers to know whether or not this could be potentially harmful to the system or not (I would assume it could be, at least). Does anyone know if this might actually fix the problem? It would appear that my system completely crashes once my northbridge temp. rises somewhere about 75 degrees C, which appears to be linked directly to the heat emanating from the graphics card.

Hard Drive not mounting on start up, or not mounting at all.

Recently, as some of you may know, I've had hard drive problems. I didn't get it fixed, but the problems came and went and I didn't have time to send it away.
But 2 weeks ago, before I went on holiday, I ran TechTool Deluxe which came with my 3 year Apple Care. It ran, found errors on the drive (something like -38 or -58 errors), so I started repair. It was after 7 hours that I held down the power button, because it just wasn't going anywhere. It had been on the same step and task for 7 hours and kept giving me every now and then the message of "Working...". But that screwed the drive more, as when I turn it on, I get the message stating to restart.
I'e tried getting at the files using this PowerBook and FireWire, using all the correct techniques, but the drive wouldnt even mount on here. Disk Utility could not mount it either.
The files, Im sure, are ok as TechTool gave me a number of the total files on the drive, which is correct. But I just cannot gain access to them.
Please help, thanks,
(it's a first gen iMac G5 btw)

This is the forum for Intel based iMacs. You need to be posting in the iMac G5 forums for your G5 and the Powerbook forums for the Powerbook.

External hard drive taking really long time to reformat

I'm reformatting a Seagate 2TB external hard drive that connects using USB 3.0 to my 2014 Macbook Pro (OS X 10.9.4).
For some idiotic reason (because I had never used it before and wanted to see what happened), when I went to reformat the drive in Disk Utility from FAT32 into 'Mac OS Journaled (Extended)' I selected the option for "7 Pass Secure Erase". It initially told me it should take "1 day, 7 hours", which seemed like a lot but was consistent with what other Support Communities people have said for such a large drive.
It's now been reformatting for 20 hours, and the estimated time remaining says "1 day, 1 hour". The progress bar has moved and it says it's on pass #3, but this seems like it's taking an abnormally long time. Has something gone wrong? For reference, I did a 1-pass into reformat into FAT32 on a similar 1TB external and it only took me around 20 minutes (so I estimated the new one would take ~5 hours (20 * ~2X storage space, 7 passes). I know "estimated time" on a computer always defies the laws of mathematics, but if "6 hours" is actually 20 hours, will I really be waiting for another 80 hours? Can I do anything to speed this up?
More importantly, can I stop the reformat and try it a gain with 1-pass, now that I've initiated the idiot way of doing it? I don't want to screw the drive up or make it unreadable, it's brand new, but I don't want to have to leave my laptop on for the next 3 and a half days.
Please help! Thanks so much!

SquareWarren wrote:
I'm reformatting a Seagate 2TB external hard drive that connects using USB 3.0...
...I know "estimated time" on a computer always defies the laws of mathematics, but if "6 hours" is actually 20 hours, will I really be waiting for another 80 hours? Can I do anything to speed this up?...
I don't know which Seagate external you're using but my experience with a number of GoFlex externals has been that very little thought was given to ventilation, and, as a result, the drives tended to overheat. Watching the transfer rate using Activity Monitor during normal backup use, I found that after running a while and getting hot, the transfer rate went from MB's to KB's/sec. You're not actually transferring anything but the drive is being written to, so I'd expect the write speed to drop and what is already going to be a long process will just get longer. Sorry.

Snow Leopard crashed : unable to find the hard drive in Disk utility

Hello,
A few days ago, my computer (running on Snow Leopard 10.6.3) suddently crashed (no recent update, no new software or hardware installation).
Since then, i'm unable to start the computer. It freezes on the start screen with the apple and the loading bar. Sometimes i've got an empty folder with a question mark.
I tried to start with the install CD, and when i select Disk utility, it only recognizes the DVD, not the hard drive (then i cannot even try to repair it).
When i want to re-install Snow Leopard, i arrive on an empty screen on which i'm asked to choose a drive to install on. Of course as i cannot choose a drive, i cannot install.
Finally, when i try to start with no errors (pressing Maj button when starting), i've got a kernel panic error saying "unable to find driver for this platform ACPI"
Can anyone help me ?
thanks in advance.

Your hard drive has had a serious malfunction. It might be that it is software: your partition table may be corrupt. If so, this may be fixable if you take it to a local Apple certified tech. However, it is more likely that it is hardware and the drive itself has failed. I hope you have a backup. If you do, you will need to replace the drive and restore the backup to the new drive. If you don't and you have important data on that drive (and if you have important data, why don't you have a backup?) you will need to contact one of the data recovery services, such as Drive Savers or Rescuecom. Be advised that the price for data recovery starts at $200 and heads upwards really quickly, depending on what the exact problem with the drive is. I have seen data recovery charges of $3000 and more for seriously screwed up drives.
Having a backup is a lot easier and a lot cheaper.

DC Offset problem with Peak 4.14 on MacMini after new hard drive upgrade

Tiger 10.4.11
Bias Peak 4.14 (24-bit 44.1 AIFF files)
USBPre 1.5
The reason for this new topic is a problem that developed with Bias Peak 4.14 on my MacMini. Suddenly, when I apply the "Remove DC Offset" DSP process to a recording, the Bias Peak meters may stop displaying correctly.
About 50% of the time, only one meter will respond to the sound, or neither will (the meters work fine on the raw file before I apply the DSP function). The rest of the time, they work normally after DC Offset. I'm still waiting to hear from Bias about this via their forum, but no-one has responded yet. I don't know if this is just a GUI bug or an indication of a recording problem. The really spooky thing is that the problem only shows up part of the time.
This is happening on a new installation of OS X on a new drive that I installed. See a note at the bottom of this post for a hardware issue that may or may not play a role.
I've been recording vinyl successfully for a long time now on my MacMini (24-bit 44.1 AIFF), using a USBPre external A/D converter and Bias Peak (currently v4.14). But recently Peak froze as it was saving a file. I had to do a hard shut down which led to a corrupted system. I'd been meaning to upgrade to a larger drive anyway, so I put a 120 gig drive in.
After first installing/updating OS X on the new drive, and installing/upgrading Bias Peak, I had no problems. But then the control panel for the USBPre froze as I was getting ready to shut down. This worried me, so I ran diagnostics with TechTool and installed eDrive. The meter problem began showing up after this change. I wiped out the partition and reinstalled from scratch again, hoping that this would get things back to normal. But I still have the meter problem after applying DC Offset. Note, I created two partitions on the drive, and put Tiger on the first partition.
The makers of the USBPRe (Sound Devices) say there is nothing about the USBPre or drivers that should be causing this.
So I'm stuck, and faced with the following ideas for what might be wrong:
1. Peak has a bug that I've somehow triggered. This may or may not be affecting the recording.
2. Something about my recording hardware/driver has changed that is "corrupting" my recordings sometimes, and this is causing Peak to have trouble metering the sound.
3. I screwed up my computer hardware and this is screwing up the recordings part of the time. See my upgrade note* about the hardware.
4. The new drive seems to be a little slower to display folder contents. I wonder if this apparent latency could be causing the DC Offset problem in the original recorded file.
* Upgrade note: When I tried to put the cover of the Mini back on after upgrading my drive and testing it out, I discovered that I hadn't screwed the drive/fan/DVD setup in correctly. The screws had fallen out and disappeared (my tiny screw driver made it very hard to tighten the screws I guess. I thought I’d done it correctly).
I turned the Mini upside down a couple of times before I discovered the screws missing.. My first attempts to put the cover on with the Mini sitting upright were not successful, so I turned it upside down to take the cover back off. The screws probably fell out then. When I tried putting the cover top down on the table and lowering the Mini into the cover I discovered that the drive/fan/DVD assembly was loose!
The drive is now secured completely except for the screws, and it is working. The slowness I mentioned above is something I noticed before the screws fell out, but obviously the assembly was not secured 100% even before I lost the screws.
I apologize for this convoluted post and hope it is clear enough. Please help if you can, I'm under pressure to finish my recording project.
Vinyl_Man

Hello, DaddyPaycheck,
The USBPre is powered by the USB bus, and it is plugged directly into the MacMini.
The screws remain in hiding. I'm amazed that I didn't find them on the motherboard or something like that. If they don't turn up fairly soon, I'll try to get replacements from an Apple service center. And I'll make sure I have a better small screwdriver.
I just did a test with Audacity for OS X and Cool Edit for Windows. I opened files that give me the meter problem in Peak and removed the DC Offset. When I opened the files I had modified in Audacity and Cool Edit, Peak metered the sound correctly. Somehow Peak is sensitive to something in the file that does not bother the other apps, and when the other apps have adjusted the DC Offset, Peak is happy. Peculiar.
I'm thinking about recording with Audacity now instead of Peak. I'm still concerned that something is wrong, though, since I don't understand the problem.
-Vinyl_Man

Easy way to install bootable OSX (or Win XP) on external drive in iMac?

HD in wife's 17" white iMac Core 2 went belly up. She exclusively uses Windows XP on the machine via Bootcamp.
Any want to do an install on 250G Western Digital USB HD so that she can run from that and just ignore the screwed up drive inside the iMac? If OSX than I'd want to install Bootcamp and Win XP on the external, too.
Or, if feasable, just install XP on the external HD and boot from there & again ignore the broken drive inside the iMac?
Thanks.

You should have no issues booting from a Mac OS X install DVD and installing Mac OS X on an external HDD, USB or FireWire. The issue is going to be getting Windows on that drive. Boot Camp will only install a Windows partition on a Mac's internal drive, but not an ext drive.
However, if anyone has figured out how to do this it would be the folks in the Boot Camp forums. The Forums are at the bottom of the main Apple Discussions page under Windows Compatible Technology. Here is a link;
Boot Camp: Installation and Storage
Dah•veed

Clicking sound, fast fans, Hard Drive not mounting

Recently, as some of you may know, I've had hard drive problems. I didn't get it fixed, but the problems came and went and I didn't have time to send it away.
But 2 weeks ago, before I went on holiday, I ran TechTool Deluxe which came with my 3 year Apple Care. It ran, found errors on the drive (something like -38 or -58 errors), so I started repair. It was after 7 hours that I held down the power button, because it just wasn't going anywhere. It had been on the same step and task for 7 hours and kept giving me every now and then the message of "Working...". But that screwed the drive more, as when I turn it on, I get the message stating to restart.
I'e tried getting at the files using this PowerBook and FireWire, using all the correct techniques, but the drive wouldnt even mount on here. Disk Utility could not mount it either.
The files, Im sure, are ok as TechTool gave me a number of the total files on the drive, which is correct. But I just cannot gain access to them.
Please help, thanks,
(it's a first gen iMac G5 btw)
*The clicking and fast fans are what used to happen when the computer froze without warning every-now and then..

Stephen--
Basically, that response is telling you that something's wrong in the command you typed. But I can't really see what it is, except that maybe your disk designator is somewhat short. In other words, where you have disk2, you need an s and a number, like 3 or 5. The boot partition on my computer is s3, so you might try this:
mount -t hfs -r /dev/disk2s3 /Volumes/Macintosh HD
On the other hand, if the disk is too badly damaged, it may not mount anyway, in which case, you'll want to try DataRescue anyway. I've had to use it twice to get files off failed drives, and it's done the job for me. It will work even if the drive won't mount, which was the case with my iMac.
charlie

4 to 6 week delay for 750gb Hard Drive - I would appreciate suggestions

This is my first Mac, so please bear with my questions; I’m a little frustrated.
I was notified by apple that my Mac Pro would be delayed "4 to 6 weeks" because they don't have the 750gb hard drive in stock. This is in addition to the 10 days I've waited so far.
I plan on using my Mac Pro for Photoshop CS & Creative Suite.
My questions is - do I?
a) Wait the 4 - 6 weeks for the 750gb?
b) Take the 500gb that's in stock?
c) Or take the 160gb hard drive and save $$$? Then buy my own 750gb from a local vendor and install everything myself?
I've only worked with Mac's a little - If I choose option "C" will it be a headache to put my own drive in and install the operating system and programs?
How will putting in my own drive affect my apple care plan?
Is there any questions I should be asking when I talk to apple about my HD or delivery options?
Your recommendations/suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
Mac Pro

a) Wait the 4 - 6 weeks for the 750gb?
b) Take the 500gb that's in stock?
c) Or take the 160gb hard drive and save $$$? Then
buy my own 750gb from a local vendor and install
everything myself?
If you can get by with 500GB, you can do that. Otherwise, option C is the way to go.
I've only worked with Mac's a little - If I choose
option "C" will it be a headache to put my own drive
in and install the operating system and programs?
Nope. Installing the drive involves sliding the drive sled out, screwing the drive in, and replacing the sled. You then have the option of installing the OS on the new drive (very easy, a lot easier than installing Windows) or "cloning" the 160GB onto the new drive using something like SuperDuper!
How will putting in my own drive affect my apple care
plan?
Unless you damage something in the process, it won't. And believe me, it's hard to mess anything up installing a new hard disk in these computers. Just take it slow and read the directions. Like I said, the process is really easy - you can do it in less than a minute once you're "practiced" at it.
Is there any questions I should be asking when I talk
to apple about my HD or delivery options?
I'm not quite sure what you exactly want to know here. Unless you want to change your order, you shouldn't have to do anything.
Your recommendations/suggestions would be
appreciated. Thanks.
Personally I would get the 160GB, then just buy a seperate drive for a lot less $$. Apple wants $600 for a 750GB? No thanks. They should only cost half that, at most.

Damaged CD Drive?

Forgive me if I throw a lot of facts that have nothing to do with anything in here - I am trying to paint a good picture incase there could be another problem I am unaware of.
I moved from Canada to Greece in June'05. I shipped my Mac Mini through the post system - and it arrived without any sign of damages.
I had noticed that the discs I had burned (CDs and DVDs) did not read in a friend of mine's computer, and he had three different CD drives.
I started having problem with my mac where it would not read any DVDs or CDs that were burnt on my friend's computer. Lately this has expanded to me not being able to read certain CDs or DVDs. When I tried reading my original Mac Mini install disc, and it failed - I grew a little suspicious.
Here is what I know:
1) Some discs work fine.
2) Other discs read fine but take a long time.
3) Other discs refuse to read at all and will not eject or anything (they get unmounted but do not eject). I have to reboot the computer before they eject.
When the second scenario happens I usually hear some whirling sounds from the cd drive that sound cyclic in nature and resemble a brushing sound. This sound happens whenever the discs are read.
When the third scenario happens I usually hear reving up and then a hard CLICK... then it does it again. Sounds almost identical to a failed IDE hard drive... but of course it is the CDROM.
I still have 169 days left on my initial one year warranty from Apple. To be honest - I am not really concerned with getting it fixed for free, I find it is usually not worth the hassle.
I went to Apple's technical support page and they have no way of emailing technical support - everything refers you back to the support forums, local service center, or 1-800 number.
I think the problem is hardware, and I think it was a result of being shaken while in transit from Canada to Greece. As such, I think the best course of action would be to replace the CD Drive.
I have a combo drive now - maybe I could order a superdrive instead from Apple and install that.
I have already upgraded the memory in my mini - I have opened the case a few times and can comfortably work in there. I have access to the Technician Training library, as I am currently studying that.
I have also heard of third party companies offering new dual-layer superdrives for the Mac Mini. Maybe one of those would be in order. Keep in mind I am now in Greece.
What is my best course of action?

Sorry - point of confusion. I used to own a PC that had a DVD burner. When I moved I sold it and kept my Mac. Those DVD discs were burned on that one. I have the combo drive.
My thinking is that there are two possibilities:
#1 My drive is screwed
#2 Drives and media here in Greece are so different that they are essentially not compatible with North American models. This I find hard to believe but ya never know. When I insert Blank CD media (tried three different brands) in my Mac, the disc is not recognized and spit out. Never had this prob in Canada.
So far the discs that are having problems are not just the Greek ones - some of my own discs are having problems. For instance, the Mac Mini Install Disc does not read anymore - and there are no scratches on the back.
Maybe there are two completely separate issues I am dealing with... CD drive problems as well as media incompatibilities.

Just lost my main drive; any thoughts?

Fortunately Retrospect backs it up 3 times a day, so I didn't lose much. Diskwarrior seems unable to rescue it, although I did get all the way to "replacing directory with new optimized one", but then hung about 90% of the way through that. I think I let this drive (external) get too hot, and the mechanism has taken a dump. My questions are: does anyone have any other thoughts on rescuing it? I had unbelievable good luck once using this online data-rescue thing on a PC drive, but it cost about $200 to recover 100 gig, and since this is backed up, I don't need to go that way. And my other question is: this drive failed because it hung while I was copying something to it (the icon for the thing I was copying just got stuck on the drive icon and I got the beach-ball for 1/2 hour). I couldn't think of anything to do but re-boot; is there a better way to handle this that stands less chance of corrupting the directory on the destination drive?
VIVE le RETROSPECT! Et le RETROSPECT EXPRESS!

Retrospect is a little backup program that can schedule different sorts of backups; I back up my work drive 3 times a day (lunch, dinner, 2 a.m.), my audio drives, sample drives and main boot drive once a day at 5 a.m.. Some people use a mirrored RAID; I worry that the kind of thing that happened yesterday would haved screwed both drives (main and backup) at the same time, so I feel safer with Retrospect (I actually use Retrospect Express) even though I may one day lose a 3rd of a day's work, I feel less exposed to losing EVERYTHING. Apple has a thing called "backup" that I'm going to look into since my MacBook Pro won't run Retrospect, I don't think. And yes, that's me from the Breckers and Gino, thanks for the comment...

3rd Party Hard Drives on Intel Xserve

We purchased an Intel Xserve with 3 80GB Apple SATA drives in the three bays. As we did with our G4 Xserve previously, we wanted more storage and opted to install higher capacity drives.
We ended up buying four (don't ask!) Seagate Baracuda 400GB SATA 7200 drives. Two worked fine but the other two would (about half the time) either show up on the login desktop about 15-45 seconds after the main desktop appeared after a reboot and occasionally wouldn't show up at all until another reboot was performed. Only about 1/3 of the time they actually show up fine and simultaneously when the main login desktop loads (like they should).
So thinking it might be a vendor problem, we purchased a Maxtor 500GB SATAII 7200 drive. Same problem.
On the occasions when the drives don't show up at all, System Profiler doesn't show anything in the bay, nor does Disk Utility see it. Nothing in the system.log or hwmond.log.
There didn't seem to be any problems with the original 3 80GB Apple drives (also Seagate Barracudas) that originally came with the Intel Xserve.
Does anyone know why this may be happening? Is it Apple's way of forcing you to buy their (overpriced) hard disks? Why would 2 of 5 3rd party drives work OK and the other 3 not?
We never had a problem using numerous 3rd party SATA drives in our existing G4 Xserve.

Don,
We' upgraded our 2 80GB Apple SATA drives to Maxtor 750 SATAII drives (the ones Apple appears to use in their own modules of that size). I found one drive would consistently mount just fine, either after a reboot or removing and reinserting the module. The other would stay in "orange light" condition - never attempting to access it. (no blue light flicker). What I found after taking the drive back out of the module and reinstalling it is that there appears to be a great sensitivity to pressure on a cable that runs under the drive (and appears to only activate the lights in the front of the drive). For instance, I tested by not screwing the drive into the module at all (mearly letting gravity keep it in the module) and hooking it back up. It mounted immediately. Putting one screw in at a time, I found that the drive would not mount after inserting the second screw. More games allowed me to get all four screws in, the drive would mount but the lights would stay orange. Leaving the drive screwed in, but putting some finger pressure on a side of the drive near the front of the module shifted the drive slightly, and afterwards the drive mounted properly with appropriate signal light behavior.
If your drive is anything like mine, my guess is that it is very slightly larger than the 80GB drive and pressing the cable into the frame either shorting it, or giving it bad contact via pressure on it's connector at the back of the module. Try shifting the cable, relieving pressure on the drive, etc. until it appears to reliably mount. I've had no problems with the drive since performing this proceedure (though it's only been a bit over a week).
Good luck!
G5 Desktop 2x2GHz (first release); Pro 3x3; Xserve (Intel); etc. Mac OS X (10.4.8)

Windows Vista Enterprise (Registered Editi

I have the full version of Enterprise given to me and my fellow students at my college. I was wondering if I was getting a blue screen of death because the drivers were made for the beta versions of Vista? I have deleted my temp files and have tried installing the 2.3.000 driver. Alls well until I have rebooted and it continues the installation process. I am then given the BSOD.
I successfully installed the drivers at one time, but oddly enough they showed in the device manager as being the best and most recent drivers for the hardware. But I still got the error message in my taskbar saying "No Audio Output Device is Installed."
I'm pulling my hair out here. My PC specs are:
3.2 ghz p4
2 gig RAM
GeForce 7600GT
Soundblaster X-Fi XtremeGamer
Windows Vista Enterprise
Any insight you can give me would be HIGHLY appreciated.

I suppose you use the 32bit version of vista?
try unpacking the install file (eg. winrar), and install the dri'ves only (remove old ones first, including software)?...\SBXF_PCDVTBETA_US_2_3_000\Drivers\se tup.exe?if it doesn't work, try the same with XP drivers?...\SBXF_PCDRV_LB_2_09_0007\Src\Drivers\se tup.exe?be sure to checkverwrite existing shared creative audio driver files?if you get the sound to work, then you can install audioconsole and such... note: with beta 2 I had to reinstall vista after I screwed up driver installation once. if you can, do a fresh install and start all over again.Message Edited by kid988 on 0-04-200704:53 AM

T61, OCZ Agility 3 doesn't fit in the HDD cage

Hi all
So, I finally bought myself an SSD for my old ThinkPad. Works wonderfully - except that it doesn't fit quite right.
The OCZ Agility 3 is slightly too wide for the HDD cage, on the bottom of the drive. Recall that the drive sits bottom side up in the ThinkPad, and that the cage sits on that side. My drive doesn't fit that way, however it does fit beautifully with the HDD cage turned upside down (obviously you can't screw the drive to the cage this way, but that is not a problem)
Now for my question: there is two metal tongues in the top of the HDD compartment, that I'm quite sure should be in contact with the HDD cage - which they now are not. Is my drive now not electrically shielded the way it should be, or what is the purpose of these?
I could cut some plastic off from the drive and make it fit the right way, but I'm pretty sure that would void the warranty of the drive, something I don't want to do. The ThinkPad on the other hand, is long out of warranty. Answers, information and suggestions is greatly appreciated.
Sincerely /O8h7w
A few thoughts that fled from the head of O8h7w
Solved!
Go to Solution.

That is strange that the drive is wider than a normal drive!
You don't really need the cage. You can get away with just sliding on the rubber boots, and put a piece of wide tape folded over on the drive so that you can pull it out if needed.
Enjoy the SSD!
T61p T7500, Quadro FX 570M, 4GB, 60GB Patriot Pyro, XP Pro
X61t Tablet, L7300 Centrino vPro, Windows 7 Home 64-bit
tpfancontrol installed on all systems

Can't get past PMU, can't even get to a grey screen

I have a Power Mac G4 Sawtooth. I recently upgraded to a Mac Pro and transferred all my data from the G4. Have 2 drives in the G4 and had some problems using Migration Assistant (wouldn't see primary drive, only secondary drive.) I read that having the drives set to cable select was the problem so I opened up the G4 and unplugged the secondary drive and set the jumper cable on the primary drive to master and this worked.
After transferring my data, I set the drives from my G4 back to their original jumper settings, and with the door open, powered up the G4. Everything worked fine. So I screwed the drive tray back into place and closed the door. Went to power on, got power, but this time only a black screen on my monitor. Can't even get to a grey screen.
I've tried everything, including testing the battery (it was fine) and going the through the steps of pressing the PMU button. I've also tested the monitor and the monitor cable. Tried re-seating the RAM, too. I'm not hearing any sound from the hard drive and I can't even get the computer to startup from G4 DVD. My understanding is that after power up, everything goes through the PMU. It then releases and says startup the keyboard, monitor, hard drive, etc. If this is wrong, let me know. So if I can't get past the PMU, does this mean my motherboard is fried?
-Daryl

Hi, Daryl -
If you moved the G4 around to make room for the new machine, that could have jarred the processor loose. It's not unusual for that to happen to an older machine, though it usually happens to RAM or cables, not to the processor.
Years of heating and cooling can loosen a connection and cause some oxidation of the contacts; subsequent moving of the machine, coupled with just a bit of thumping or torquing of the chassis, can cause the connection to fail. Reseating the connection not only makes it secure again, it usually wipes the oxidation off of the contacts.

10.4.4 screwed my drive?

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