12 inch PB--Hard Disk less than 80G

I just bought my 12 inch Powerbook at an Apple Store last week. To my knowledge, this model is supposed to have 80Gigs of Hard Disk storage, but why does it just say around 71 gigabytes? I feel like I'm getting robbed for the space that I thought I paid for.

Hi,
it has been mentioned in a previous post, so just to give you a bit more detail:
It depends what you define as one GB. The industry usually defines 1GB as 1000×1000 bytes (1,000,000 bytes). The mac defines 1GB as 1024×1024 bytes (1,048,576 bytes).
Some additional issues are formatting and partitioning, which eats up some space as well.
Here are some articles if you want to read more about these issues:
Hard Drives: Partition Size and Missing Space Explained
Macintosh Hard Disk: Is It Missing Space?
Hope that helps,
Koinseb

Similar Messages

MacBook Pro w 500 GB hard drive less than 10% avail.

I have a MacBook Pro w 500 GB hard drive less than 10% avail. My iPhoto file is huge, almost all of my space. Apple tech support suggested a 2 GB Time Capsule. I haven't been able to set up iPhotos off of the laptop to work remotely in iphotos. Is this the setup I should be going for or would buying a iMac with 3 GB hard drive be better solution?

I agree with Linc. I suggest you upgrade your internal drive to a 1 TB drive for lots of space and a substantial boost of speed. Managing one internal drive is much easier than managing external storage, especially when you consider the need to backup the data.
New 1 TB hybrid SSD-disk drives deliver high capacity with an 8 GB SSD buffer that performs at SSD-like speeds. Google "Seagate 1 TB hybrid-drive 2.5”.
For an easy installation and transfer kit see
Toolkit: http://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/TOOLKITMHD/
SATA enclosure: http://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/ES2.5BPU2W/
P.S. If you do not have a backup drive you should get one.
Time Machine Basics: http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1427

Ive had my 13 inch macbook pro for less than 30 days and the battery health has gone down to 92% and the computer itself is so slow...i paid %50.00 for an OLD windows computer with 512 mb of ram and it is much faster..is this normal for mac??

Ive had my 13 inch macbook pro for less than 30 days and the battery health has gone down to 92% and the computer itself is so slow...i paid $50.00 for an OLD windows computer with 512 mb of ram and it is much faster..is this normal for mac?? Also, apple says there is nothing they can/wil do even though i got the apple care....i mean really? $50.00 for 2002 computer with windows XP and 512mb of ram and a single core processor......faster and more usable than $1400.00 computer with 4gb of ram and dual core processor.....***???

Willtc92 wrote:
Ive had my 13 inch macbook pro for less than 30 days and the battery health has gone down to 92% and the computer itself is so slow...i paid $50.00 for an OLD windows computer with 512 mb of ram and it is much faster..is this normal for mac??
obviously not.
Ive had my 13 inch macbook pro for less than 30 days and the battery health has gone down to 92% and the computer itself is so slow...
Give examples of how it is slow.

Issues with Catalogs in Organiser when photos on hard disk other than C:

Hello Folks;
I face the following issue with PSE7 :
the Catalog function does not work when I try to import pictures located on any other hard disk different from C: disk.
In other words, the following happens :
1) in the Organiser, I create a new Catalog (on C: disk or on F: disk)
2) I import pictures located in a directory on disk F:
3) when I try to review the "cataloged" images one by one , PSE7 gives the message that he has lost the connection to the images and a window opens asking to RECONNECT the files;
4) I then browse to the right directory , find the files and try to reconnect back to the original image (that was not moved to another place nor renamed !) the system does not reconnect te picture with the catalog
5) in short : PSE7 is unusable when pictures are not located on C: disk
I contacted the support (since I ahve a legal version , yes !) but they seem to consider this normal ; catalog and pictures must be on the same disk drive they told me . Unbelievable !
This surprises me because : with PSE4 (my former version) , this worked withiout any problem !
I consider this as a ral software bug, isn't it ?
I am still in touch with Adobe's support but it takes time .. and still no solution ..
Did someone face the same issue ? Suffering in group is less painfull as anyone knows .. ;-)
Any solution at sight ? ;-)
Thanks a lot for any help on this, I am totally stuck here ... !
Claude

THANKS a lot dj-paige ... !!!
Thanks to the psedbtool (thanks john rellis too !) .. I could diagnose the problem : my two disk drives C: and F: had the same serial number .
And even better : I could SOLVE the problem .
I changed the volumeid of disk F: asexplained in john rellis's documentation .. and now PSE7's Catalog works fine !!
(I am still waiting for a decent answer from Adobe's suuport .. it's a shame that they do not do !).
THANKS again dj-paige for the support received ... !!!
I wish all problems in life could be solved as easily as this one !!!
Greetings from Brussels , Belgium
CLAUDE

T60 - Hard Disk (other than lenovo and IBM)

Hi,
I want a buy 160 GB hard disk for T60 - 1952 - CTO model.
Will T60 support 250 and 320 GB HDD ?
Are there any other compatible hard drives available in the market apart from buying it from Lenovo or IBM. The HDD of IBM/Lenovo are quite expensive.
What is the risk that I run if I purchase a hard drive from Seagate or any other manufacturer.
Thanks,
Rahul.

Any SATA drive would do. You remove the hard drive cover, pull out the hard drive, then you will see the original drive. Remove the four screws holding the caddy to the drive, put the new drive in the caddy, re-screw, re-cover then reload your Ubuntu OS :smiley: operating system.

Can I move MobileSync to a hard disk other than startup volume?

I have been told many times by others 'in the know' that you have to keep certain files on the start-up volume. However, I have 2 internal HDs on my iMac, and the SSD (start up volume) is quite small - only 250GB. The other drive is 1 TB and I have about 15 TB of externals available via Lightning connection. The problem is that the internal SSD is continually filling up, and since I have several mobile devices I am synching with iTunes, they are gobbling up tons of disk space on the startup volume. Is it possible to move MOBILE SYNC to a different drive? There is nothing in 'preferences' for mobile sync that can specify the volume where these files should be stored. They are taking up almost 85GB of disk space. My temptation right now is to clone the 1TB internal over to an external drive, then clone the SSD internal over to the 1TB internal, and make that 1TB internal drive the new startup volume, but it would require reformatting and reinstalling operating system software, since there isn't any on that drive.
I am sort of 'stuck' because when I setup a replacement iPhone on Monday from a backup of the previous phone (that had a defective antenna), about 100 recordings in the RECORDER APP were not restored to the new iPhone, and I need to dig through some iPhone backups to try to find one that might have them on it. I hate to lose some of those very valuable recordings from a one-week intensive graduate seminar. Any suggestions for pruning the startup volume?
Disk Inventory X is showing only 7.2GB of open space and 225.8GB full on the SSD startup volume. Here are the big space 'hogs:'
Users - 168.5 GB (library 151.3GB; movies 15GB, which is odd, since all of the movies are stored externally.) In 'application support, MobileSync is taking up 82.5GB and Mail is taking up 47.9GB. (some of this mail goes way back, and needs to be archived, but I am not sure if that possibility exists in current OS)
Applications - 16.5 GB
Library - 11.5GB
iMac - intel (3 yrs old)
OSX 10.9.5
iPadAir
'the new iPad'
iPhone 5S
various other mac devices...

Well iTunes itself takes up virtually no space. I believe what you are suggesting is a move of your music files. Now these files can be moved to another drive and iTunes will act just like normal. The catch is that your music files pretty much have to be in one place. If you already have all your music stored in the My Music/iTunes/iTunes Music folder than you should be good. If you do not its a little trickier. In your preferences menu of iTunes under the advanced tab there are the options to "Keep iTunes music folder organized" and to "Copy files to iTunes music folder when adding to library". You will want both of these checked. Then under the advanced tab (The one not in the preferences menu) There is an option to consolidate library. This will copy all the music in your library not in the iTunes folder to the iTunes folder. Thus you will want to delete duplicated when the process is over. (If your drive is too slim on space for this opperation... then I don't know what to tell you.) With all your music in the iTunes folder just drag and drop said folder onto the new drive. Then under the advanced tab in preferences the first option is to change the location of your iTunes music library. Simply change it to where you have stored your library on the new drive and you will be set to go.

Formatted Hard Disk Memory

Hi,
I am new to the Mac world, and I just got my iBook with a hard disk memory of 80G. However, when I checked out the formatted memory, 20G has already been used, leaving slightly more than 60G. Is this typical? My last notebook was only 20G (not a mac), and the formatted memory was around 17G. If any one can enlighten me, I would greatly appreciate it!
Thanks!

Welcome to the Apple Discussions!
This amount of available space is not unusual. The "80GB" capacity is a marketing term, the Finder will report an actual formatted capacity of about 74GB. Mac OS X takes up more than 3GB and iDVD and Garage Band each take up more than 2GB of hard drive space. When you add the games and other software that comes with an iBook, 14GB of used space is just about normal. You might want to take a peek at this previous topic:
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=1040919
-Doug

Ssd internal hard disk compatible for a macbook2010

Hy everyone!i need help to choose a new hard disk for my Mac book pro 2010!
I was wondering which ssd 2.5 inch internal hard disk brand is compatible for it?
I would go with a crucial or samsung,but i really don't know what i should notice before choosing.

stefanobernardini,
I put a Samsung 840 PRO SSD in my Mid 2010 MacBook Pro. It’s been working flawlessly for me so far. Other people here have good things to say about the SSDs made by Crucial and by OWC, but the 840 PRO is the only one which I have experience with, so I’ll restrict my recommendations to it.

Where can I get a new hard disk in the UK?

I have a Hitachi 80Gb internal hard disk (Hitachi HDS722580VLAT20) which TechTool tells me is failing. I can't afford to have a new one fitted, so I think I'm going to have to do it myself.
The trouble is that I can't find one anywhere. Apple don't seem to sell them and so far any search of the web has been fruitless. Anyone recommend a UK supplier for these?

Have you tried to repair the disk using Apple's Disk Utility or whatever options TechTool offers?
More drastically; have you tried Zeroing All Data on the drive and re-installing the OS? This can cure many Hard Drive issues unless the drive really is on it's way out.
But to answer your question...The iMac G4 uses a bog standard 3.5" IDE/ATA hard drive so they are available from any computer shop. E.g. PC World if you prefer to walk in to a store on a retail park.
The term IDE /ATA/ATA100/ATA66 etc etc are all pretty much one and the same thing so don't worry about that. The only drives that won't work are the new Serial ATA (SATA) drives that are used in new Macs/PCs. You should buy a faster 7,200rpm drive with a cache of at least 8Mb.
I bought my 320Gb drive from dabs.com - I've bought, RAM, disk, media, printers and whole macs from them and have been very happy with the prices and service. If you wanted to shop around I like dealtime.co.uk.
The first iMac G4's i.e. pre June 02 may have trouble addressing hard disks greater than 128Gb. - So long as your machine is younger it should be okay.
mrtotes

W510 3Tb hard disk support?

When I connect a 3Tb external HD by USB port, size shows only 746 Gb.
Does the W510 support hard disks bigger than 2Gb?
Bios version 1.37, HD Seagate ST3000DM001, Windows 7 Professional SP1, Intel SATA AHCI controller version 11.2.0.1006.

The problem is not the T510. First, many or most external USB housings do not support 3TB drives. (the limitation is in the USB-> SATA bridge circuit) I will assume yours does. The disk must be initialized using a GPT partition table, not MBR. For native support, you must be using windows7 64-bit or Vista SP1 64-bit. 32-bit operating systems cannot directly use GPT disks.You will need to re-initialize the drive and recreate the partition structure. The MBR structure has pointers too small to address anything beyond 2.2 TB.
Here is a fairly good explanation in wikipedia that is mostly correct:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GPT_Disk

Disk Utility: for bad blocks on hard disks, are seven overwrites any more effective than a single pass of zeros?

In this topic I'm not interested in security or data remanence (for such things we can turn to e.g. Wilders Security Forums).
I'm interested solely in best practice approaches to dealing with bad blocks on hard disks.
I read potentially conflicting information. Examples:
… 7-way write (not just zero all, it does NOT do a reliable safe job mapping out bad blocks) …
— https://discussions.apple.com/message/8191915#8191915 (2008-09-29)
… In theory zero all might find weak or bad blocks but there are better tools …
— https://discussions.apple.com/message/11199777#11199777 (2010-03-09)
… substitution will happen on the first re-write with Zeroes. More passes just takes longer.
— https://discussions.apple.com/message/12414270#12414270 (2010-10-12)
For bad block purposes alone I can't imagine seven overwrites being any more effective than a single pass of zeros.
Please, can anyone elaborate?
Anecdotally, I did find that a Disk Utility single pass of zeros seemed to make good (good enough for a particular purpose) a disk that was previously unreliable (a disk drive that had been dropped).

@MrHoffman
As well pointed your answers are, you are not answering the original question, and regarding consumer device hard drives your answers are missleading.
Consumer device hard drives ONLY remap a bad sector on write. That means regardless how many spare capacity the drive has, it will NEVER remap the sector. That means you ALWAYS have a bad file containing a bad sector.
In other words YOU would throw away an otherwise fully functional drive. That might be reasonable in a big enterprise where it is cheaper to replace the drive and let the RAID system take care of it.
However on an iMac or MacBook (Pro) an ordinary user can not replace the drive himself, so on top of the drive costs he has to pay the repair bill (for a drive that likely STILL is in perfect shape, except for the one 'not yet' remaped bad block)
You simply miss the point that the drive can have still one million good reserve blocks, but will never remap the affected block in a particular email or particular song or particular calendar. So as soon as the file affected is READ the machine hangs, all other processes more or less hang at the same moment they try to perform I/O because the process trying to read the bad block is blocking in the kernal. This happens regardless how many free reserve blocks you have, as the bad block never gets reallocated, unless it is written to it. And your email program wont rewrite an email that is 4 years old for you ... because it is not programmed to realize a certain file needs to be rewritten to get rid of a bad block.
@Graham Perrin
You are similar stubborn in not realizing that your original question is awnsered.
A bad block gets remapped on write.
So obviously it happens at the first write.
How do you come to the strange idea that writing several times makes a difference? How do you come to the strange idea that the bytes you write make a difference? Suppose block 1234 is bad. And the blocks 100,000,000 to 100,000,999 are reserve blocks. When you write '********' to block 1234 the hard drive (firmware) will remap it to e.g. 100,000,101. All subsequent writes will go to the same NEW block. So why do you ask if doing it several times will 'improve' this? After all the awnsers here you should have realized: your question makes no sense as soon as you have understood how remapping works (is supposed to work). And no: it does not matter if you write a sequence od zeros, of '0's or of '1's or of 1s or of your social security number or just 'help me I'm hold prisoner in a software forum'.
I would try to find a software that finds which file is affected, then try to read the bad block until you in fact have read it (that works surprisngly often but may take any time from a few mins to hours) ... in other words you need a software that tries to read the file and copies it completely, so even the bad block is read (hopefully) successful. Then write the whole data to a new file and delete the old one (deleting will free the bad block and ar some later time something will be written there and cause a remap).
Writing zeros into the bad block basically only helps if you don't care that the affected file is corrupted afterwards. E.g. in case of a movie the player might crash after trying to display the affected area. E.g. if you know the affected file is a text file, it would make more sense to write a bunch of '-' signs, as they are readable while zero bytes are not (a text file is not supposed to contain zero bytes)
Hope that helped ;)

MacBook pro 13" 2010 hard drive died in less than 2 months, what to do

Hey apple forums, ran into issues today and I want to know how to handle the situation. I bought a MacBook pro 13" (2010) model on may 1st 2010, it died 9 days latter, best buy replaced it free of charge (even though I had to fight them to do so) this next one ran fine from may 9th 2010 to June 22 2010, just shy of two months. What happened? The **** hard drive died (which by the way is a crappy seagate, I only buy western digital drives as they have NEVER failed me in the 10 years I have used them). The way i know this is because I am a pc repair technician and have run diagnostics and they all say drive is dead. When boot up (or attempt) the apple logo pops up and shows a progress bar (which I have never seen before) it stays on for 10 seconds and then disappears, then the normal circle loading animation begins, then my MacBook pro starts getting ridiculously hot and never loads up Mac os x 10.6.4. I am then forced to hold the power button for 10 seconds to kill the power. I can boot into windows 7 which tells me that it is strongly recommended to perform a disk check which hangs midway, or if I cancel it before it starts I can boot in to a working copy of windows 7. If I access or attach a external hard drive I get a blue screen that says "applehfs.dll" is the cause of the blue screen.
I did force boot the Mac os x install DVD and used the disk utility to first verify permissions and it came up with god knows how many errors, but won't let me repair permissions (it is grey out). So I proceed to do a disk volume check, it stops and says it is strongly recommended to backup as many files as possible and reformat the hard drive. I do have the equipment to recover data, however my concern is getting the hard drive replaced under warranty. Being a it support personnel I need my computer asap, it isn't my problem that the hard drive died so I am not going to just buy a new one, how does apple go about replacing NOT repairing the hard drive.
This is what I want, go to the apple store with my Macbook pro and my craftsman set of #000 screw drivers and take the hard drive out myself, hand the hard drive to the "genius" (which by the way are un qualified in my opinion to service my $1200 Macbook pro, as they scratched my first MacBook pro, and stripped the screws. Sorry Apple but you lost my trust). Have the genius hand me a replacement hard drive, I place that back into my MacBook pro and be on my merry way home to reinstall all of my programs and restore my data.
Is this a reasonable request and do you think apple will give me a hard time?
Thanks to all the help,
Jakthebomb

No, that isn't a reasonable request, and it's not going to happen that way. If you want Apple to warrant your new drive, Apple will insist on installing it. If you want to choose your new hard drive, you'll have to buy and install it at your own expense. Given your impatience, your prejudices, and your low opinion of Apple service, that's certainly what you should do. In addition to getting your preferred drive and installing it on your own schedule, you'll get a much longer warranty than Apple would give you on it, and you'll get to keep the old drive to recover data from it if necessary (Apple would keep it if they replaced it.) Installing a new drive yourself will have no effect on the Apple warranty covering the rest of the machine, and being an IT professional, you can probably buy a new hard drive for even less than we ordinary mortals pay for them nowadays.
So yes, Apple owes you a new drive, but if you can't accept the terms on which Apple will provide it, by all means just buy and install one yourself and get on with your life.

HT1386 i tunes is installed in c drive and the free disk space is less than 1.5gb, i want to load the folders to the library and sync it to my ipod classic

Sir,
I have installed itunes in the c drive of my computer which has got less space that is less than 1.5 gb,I copied the folders from another Ipod to the external hard disk from the ipod contacts music folder, but when I choose the folder to the library from external hard disk the folder is not highlighted in the itunes, but when I choose all the files of a single folder and copy to the library of itunes it is extracted and the files of that folder gets synced to my ipod, but when we do for the next folder files the previous files gets deleted and the next folder files get synced, Is there any solution in this regard please. I want to copy nearly music of 148 gb.
M Epeneth
Message was edited by: epeneth

Try either posting in the iPod Classic forum or the iTunes forum. This is the iPod touch forum.

Disk utility reports smaller hard drive size than actual

I have been using a 3tb external drive (Formatted mac osx journaled) without any problems on my mac mini. Suddenly, it no longer allows me to write to the drive and more often it does not even recognize the drive when it is in the caddy. The caddy supports USB3 and is fairly new. The hard drive is a 7200rpm seagate.
When looking at the drive in disk utility, it states that the drive is 2.2 TB while the size is 3TB.
Does anyone have similar problems? Any recommendations?
Currently on OS X version 10.8.5.
Thanks!
When I insert the drive in the caddy I get the error message that it is not readable. Disk utility reports it as 2.2tb. The drive is a 3TB Seagate.

Hi Eric,
Can't really hook it up directly to a mac mini as the mini is pretty sealed. I did connect it to a PC as I wanted to run SpinRite on it and SpinRite gave me an error message that the Drive Size reported was less than the actual physical drive size.
SpinRite recommended not to perform any actions on the drive due to this discrepancy.
Not sure where to go at this point.
I could try to re-format the 3TB with OS X Journal and see if I get the 3tb back...

When I go to Preview to view a photo it shows up for less than a second then disappears and just leaves a gray box where the photo should be. iMac (Retina 5K, 27-inch, Late 2014). I need Preview for work.

After the OS X Yosemite 10.10.3 update When I go to use Preview to view a photo it shows up for less than a second then disappears and just leaves a gray box where the photo should be. iMac (Retina 5K, 27-inch, Late 2014). I need Preview for work.

1. This procedure is a diagnostic test. It changes nothing, for better or worse, and therefore will not, in itself, solve the problem. But with the aid of the test results, the solution may take a few minutes, instead of hours or days.
The test works on OS X 10.7 ("Lion") and later. I don't recommend running it on older versions of OS X. It will do no harm, but it won't do much good either.
Don't be put off by the complexity of these instructions. The process is much less complicated than the description. You do harder tasks with the computer all the time.
2. If you don't already have a current backup, back up all data before doing anything else. The backup is necessary on general principle, not because of anything in the test procedure. Backup is always a must, and when you're having any kind of trouble with the computer, you may be at higher than usual risk of losing data, whether you follow these instructions or not.
There are ways to back up a computer that isn't fully functional. Ask if you need guidance.
3. Below are instructions to run a UNIX shell script, a type of program. As I wrote above, it changes nothing. It doesn't send or receive any data on the network. All it does is to generate a human-readable report on the state of the computer. That report goes nowhere unless you choose to share it. If you prefer, you can act on it yourself without disclosing the contents to me or anyone else.
You should be wondering whether you can believe me, and whether it's safe to run a program at the behest of a stranger. In general, no, it's not safe and I don't encourage it.
In this case, however, there are a couple of ways for you to decide whether the program is safe without having to trust me. First, you can read it. Unlike an application that you download and click to run, it's transparent, so anyone with the necessary skill can verify what it does.
You may not be able to understand the script yourself. But variations of it have been posted on this website thousands of times over a period of years. The site is hosted by Apple, which does not allow it to be used to distribute harmful software. Any one of the millions of registered users could have read the script and raised the alarm if it was harmful. Then I would not be here now and you would not be reading this message. See, for example, this discussion.
Nevertheless, if you can't satisfy yourself that these instructions are safe, don't follow them. Ask for other options.
4. Here's a general summary of what you need to do, if you choose to proceed:
☞ Copy a particular line of text to the Clipboard.
☞ Paste into the window of another application.
☞ Wait for the test to run. It usually takes a few minutes.
☞ Paste the results, which will have been copied automatically, back into a reply on this page.
These are not specific instructions; just an overview. The details are in parts 7 and 8 of this comment. The sequence is: copy, paste, wait, paste again. You don't need to copy a second time.
5. Try to test under conditions that reproduce the problem, as far as possible. For example, if the computer is sometimes, but not always, slow, run the test during a slowdown.
You may have started up in "safe" mode. If the system is now in safe mode and works well enough in normal mode to run the test, restart as usual. If you can only test in safe mode, do that.
6. If you have more than one user, and the one affected by the problem is not an administrator, then please run the test twice: once while logged in as the affected user, and once as an administrator. The results may be different. The user that is created automatically on a new computer when you start it for the first time is an administrator. If you can't log in as an administrator, test as the affected user. Most personal Macs have only one user, and in that case this section doesn’t apply. Don't log in as root.
7. Load this linked web page (on the website "Pastebin.") The title of the page is "Diagnostic Test." Below the title is a text box headed by three small icons. The one on the right represents a clipboard. Click that icon to select the text, then copy it to the Clipboard on your computer by pressing the key combination command-C.
If the text doesn't highlight when you click the icon, select it by triple-clicking anywhere inside the box. Don't select the whole page, just the text in the box.
8. Launch the built-in Terminal application in any of the following ways:
☞ Enter the first few letters of its name into a Spotlight search. Select it in the results (it should be at the top.)
☞ In the Finder, select Go ▹ Utilities from the menu bar, or press the key combination shift-command-U. The application is in the folder that opens.
☞ Open LaunchPad and start typing the name.
Click anywhere in the Terminal window to activate it. Paste from the Clipboard into the window by pressing command-V, then press return. The text you pasted should vanish immediately.
9. If you see an error message in the Terminal window such as "Syntax error" or "Event not found," enter
exec bash
and press return. Then paste the script again.
10. If you're logged in as an administrator, you'll be prompted for your login password. Nothing will be displayed when you type it. You will not see the usual dots in place of typed characters. Make sure caps lock is off. Type carefully and then press return. You may get a one-time warning to be careful. If you make three failed attempts to enter the password, the test will run anyway, but it will produce less information. If you don't know the password, or if you prefer not to enter it, just press return three times at the password prompt. Again, the script will still run.
If you're not logged in as an administrator, you won't be prompted for a password. The test will still run. It just won't do anything that requires administrator privileges.
11. The test may take a few minutes to run, depending on how many files you have and the speed of the computer. A computer that's abnormally slow may take longer to run the test. While it's running, a series of lines will appear in the Terminal window like this:
[Process started]
        Part 1 of 8 done at … sec
        Part 8 of 8 done at … sec
        The test results are on the Clipboard.
        Please close this window.
[Process completed]
The intervals between parts won't be exactly equal, but they give a rough indication of progress. The total number of parts may be different from what's shown here.
Wait for the final message "Process completed" to appear. If you don't see it within about ten minutes, the test probably won't complete in a reasonable time. In that case, press the key combination control-C or command-period to stop it and go to the next step. You'll have incomplete results, but still something.
12. When the test is complete, or if you stopped it because it was taking too long, quit Terminal. The results will have been copied to the Clipboard automatically. They are not shown in the Terminal window. Please don't copy anything from there. All you have to do is start a reply to this comment and then paste by pressing command-V again.
At the top of the results, there will be a line that begins with the words "Start time." If you don't see that, but instead see a mass of gibberish, you didn't wait for the "Process completed" message to appear in the Terminal window. Please wait for it and try again.
If any private information, such as your name or email address, appears in the results, anonymize it before posting. Usually that won't be necessary.
13. When you post the results, you might see an error message on the web page: "You have included content in your post that is not permitted," or "You are not authorized to post." That's a bug in the forum software. Please post the test results on Pastebin, then post a link here to the page you created.
14. This is a public forum, and others may give you advice based on the results of the test. They speak for themselves, not for me. The test itself is harmless, but whatever else you're told to do may not be. For others who choose to run it, I don't recommend that you post the test results on this website unless I asked you to.
Copyright © 2014, 2015 by Linc Davis. As the sole author of this work (including the referenced "Diagnostic Test"), I reserve all rights to it except as provided in the Use Agreement for the Apple Support Communities website ("ASC"). Readers of ASC may copy it for their own personal use. Neither the whole nor any part may be redistributed.

12 inch PB--Hard Disk less than 80G

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