2500 router power supply schematic?

Hi All,
Does anybody know where I can get one? The actual part number is prw-2500-ac. Thanks, sh

could someone test their power supply with a volt meter for me?
I have 2 routers. I'm using one of them, but the other doesn't have a power supply. I wont be needing that other one for a little while yet, but I want to make sure it works.

Similar Messages

Router power supply: Switch mode or linear?

I need to replace a failed power supply for a router - which model doesn't really matter but the router is a WRT54GS (12V 1000mA). Which is best - a switch mode or a linear power supply? Will either be just as good? Please only answer if you DEFINITELY know the answer. Cheers, Mike

Power adapter uses External, 12V DC, and 0.5A...

3845 Router redundant power supply question

Is it possible to swap out a bad redundant power supply on a 3845 router without powering down the router?

The FAQ at this URL indicates that they ARE in fact hot-swappable. Please review it here, under "System Power (AC/DC)".

Redundant power supply for 3900 router series

Dear support,
does the spare power supply PWR-3900-AC= include a power cable?
best regards

The 5B01 backplane itself requires no current, just the individual modules. 1A should suffice well then. Personally, I use separate low noise linear regulated supplies for the backplanes in my designs.
Here's a couple links to assist:
http://www.analog.com/Analog_Root/static/marketSolutions/ios/catalog/5b/ordering.html
http://www.analog.com/Analog_Root/static/marketSolutions/ios/catalog/5b/5b_pwrsu.html
Happy isolating
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"It’s the questions that drive us.”
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Choosing the Right Power Supply

First things first. If you've got a poor-quality and/or faulty power supply, nothing else you do will work to solve your problems. Stick to the basics before you go further...The short answer is to buy a hi-powered, brand name supply, like the new ENERMAX line (430 W or higher) or ANTEC True550. Almost nothing else will do with today's computers. In over 30 years of electronic/computer service, I have found that 85% or more of problems were power-related.
If you want to know more, read on...
Choosing The Right Power Supply
If you’re reading this, there’s a good chance that one of my colleagues or I believe that you could be experiencing problems with your power supply, based upon the symptoms you mentioned in your post, and provided you with this link. Relax, you’re not alone. In 30 years of electronic and computer troubleshooting, I’d say that the majority of the electronic, mainframe, mini, and microcomputer problems I’ve diagnosed and repaired were with the basic power the problematic device was receiving. The symptoms often included random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc.
(As the national support technician for few major computer service companies, working US Defense contracts, I was often the person that had to fly in and correct the problem, or “walk through” the on-site technician as he closely followed my instructions. I achieved success in my career by carefully reading the manuals, knowing where to go for more information that was otherwise unavailable to me, and/or systematically troubleshooting until the problems were discovered and repaired. I never had the option of giving up.)
The most overlooked component when building or upgrading a PC is the power supply unit (PSU). Some people use their old case and PSU when they upgrade. Some use the PSU that came with their new case. Some people even buy a new PSU. And most inexperienced builders all make the same mistake: The PSU that they’re trying to use is simply inadequate for the job.
Suppose you’re upgrading to a new motherboard, CPU, ram, and video card, but still using the old case and PSU. It’s most likely that you’re upgrading in order to build a machine that is more powerful, faster, has a more colorful display, can number-crunch more quickly, play the latest games, etc. These gains in performance all have one thing in common: They require more raw power. However, have you thought about where that power comes from?
Suppose you’re building a new system with a new case and PSU. Has it occurred to you that the company that you bought the case/PSU from might make more money if they skimp on the supply, even if the supply has a large wattage rating? Most bulk power supply manufacturers don’t make good PSU’s. They use older, cheaper technology, and slap on labels that represent the PSU’s peak outputs, and not their continuous output rating. These companies are intentionally misleading you in order to sell you an inferior product. Brands I avoid when building/repairing my friends’ and family’s computers: Allied, Q-Tec, Chieftech, and many others.
For those of you who bought a power supply separately, did you know that you’re only supposed to run a power supply continuously at 30-70% (with 50% being optimal) of its continuous rating for maximum efficiency (which means less heat to you)? Most inexperienced builders either buy PSU’s that are matched to their equipment’s continuous power usage, or ones that are even less powerful than they need. Why? Because they’re trying to save money.
I mean, what’s the fun in a power supply? You don’t get any games with it, there’s no more storage, hardly ever any more bells and whistles, etc. A power supply is boring, and it’s supposed to be, because it’s supposed to provide a stable, reliable platform upon which the rest of the equipment can easily access the amount of power it needs, and when it’s needed. In almost EVERY review of powers supplies, the same point is stressed: Better safe than sorry.
But what does safe vs sorry mean? It can mean that you don’t have to waste money on the wrong PSU in the first place, but it can also mean that you don’t have to replace your expensive ram, CPU, video card, etc. NEEDLESSLY, or because your cheap PSU destroyed them. What? A cheap power supply can wreck your computer? YES IT CAN. A cheap power supply can cause thermal damage, not only from the heat it produces, but also the heat it can create in your components as well. RAM is especially sensitive to heat, and there’s RAM in your CPU, your video cards, and, well, your RAM too. A cheap switching power supply, run at its maximum, or peak, continuously can also destroy components by creating RF (Radio Frequency) signals on your power rails, signals which the components on your peripheral devices were not equipped to handle in the first place.
So this begs the question, how does one choose the right power supply? I’ll illustrate this using my own PC as the example. This is my setup that I use for video processing:
K7N2G-ILSR
Athlon 2500+ Barton @ 2125Mhz
AMD Retail Heatsink/Fan
2 - 512MB DDR333 w/Thermaltake Spreaders (slot 1&3)
MSI TV@nywhere Video Capture
ATI Radeon 9600
120GB Maxtor DiamondMax Plus 9 SATA
30GB Quantum IDE
TEAC DV-W50E DVD/CD-R/W
BTC DVD-ROM Drive
Artec CD-R/W
Using this Power Supply Calculator link:
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/
I plug in all my equipment values, but some of this can be a little tricky. For example, since I often run the CPU like an XP 3000, I choose the 3000 as my processor; it’s the same chip run at the faster rate. I also choose the ATI Radeon video card, and I select the RAM wattage for 2 sticks of DDR. I also choose every card I have, like my video capture card, but I also select the boxes for the separate cards that correspond to the functions that my ILSR provides as well (and that I use), like sound, USB, Firewire, NIC, etc. Although I use the onboard SATA controller, I don’t select the SCSI PCI card, because, in truth, I’ve probably made up for it by selecting all the other corresponding devices, including cards that the motherboard replaces. I check the boxes for the fans and drives I use, and I’m done, right?
Not yet.
I just remembered that I plan to upgrade soon, so I go back and change the values to reflect my impending changes. I mean, I want to make sure that I have enough power to begin with so that I don’t have to replace the power supply again, right?
Ok. Done. I look at the bottom and see that it tells me that I need a 468 watt PSU. So a 480 watt supply will do, right? Wrong.
Remember that, for efficiency, long-life, and less heat, you want your actual power consumption to fall between 30-70% of the PSU’s rating, so add 30% (minimum) to the 468, and you get 468 + (468*.30)= 608 Watts! Holy Cow!
However, I’d only need a 608-Watt supply if I was using all the devices at once, and I don’t. But, in truth, with video and audio processing, I often get close when I process, burn, and monitor at the same time. (Hardcore gamers also get close a lot, as they blast the sound and push that video to its limits.) So, let’s take off 10% (maximum) of 608, for a total of 541 Watts.
I need a 550 Watt supply, but not just ANY 550 watt PSU. I need a supply that can give me enough power on the critical 3.3, 5, and 12V rails combined. I also want a supply from a trusted, name-brand manufacturer, so I start hitting the many online reviews. Here are just two from Tom’s Hardware:
http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20030609/index.html
http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20021021/index.html
Read these in their entirety. I didn’t post them because they’re pretty links.
In the end, I chose Antec, because they’ve got the reputation, the recommendation, and because the Antec True550 has better specs than the rest of the 550 Watt competition. I also bought it from a reputable company I found on Pricegrabber.com, for the lowest price I could find, $95.00 shipped to my door. (In truth, I wanted two mini-redundant supplies, like the hospitals and military use, but they were too expensive.)
The result? Not only are the random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc., gone like magic, but I also now have “peace of mind” in that whatever might happen to my equipment in the future, I know almost for certain that the PSU is NOT the problem. I also bought an UPS, because the East Coast Blackout proved to me that even the Antec True550 isn’t going to provide me any power for emergency shutdown if it doesn’t get its power from somewhere.
Even if your problem doesn’t lie in the PSU completely, it gives you a GREAT platform for troubleshooting further. If you’re not reasonably certain that the supply is the cause, borrow one, or buy one that you can return once you’ve solved the problem. But, above all else, BUY THE RIGHT SUPPLY before you do anything else! Otherwise, you could be plugging and unplugging components, buying and blowing up expensive memory, and causing even further damage, until you give up or die.
I mean, I assume you built your own system to enjoy “more bang for your buck,” right? What’s the fun of a random reboot in the middle of Unreal Tournament 2003?
William Hopkins
Former Staff Sergeant, USAF
B.A., B.S., with Honors
The University of California, San Diego
[email protected]
P.S. It should be noted that while Enermax, ThermalTake, Zalman, Fortron, and others make great PSU’s, and I compared and considered them, the Antec still won out overall in my critical evaluation, like it did in so may others’ reviews. You’d probably be ok if you went with another reputable manufacturer as listed above, but pick a supply that gives you at least 230 watts on the 3.3 and 5V lines combined, and still meets the 30% criteria as stated above. Remember, if the manufacturers don’t give you maximum combined specs up front, they’re untrustworthy right off the bat. With power supplies, you definitely end up getting what you pay for. Don’t say nobody warned you.
P.P.S. Update! After recent developments, it looks like Enermax is the leader, but only the latest line of PSU's.

Ok, as an electrical engineer...I have to step in here! LOL
First, these amp rating are for 2 +12 rails. That is why you see a protection of around 15-18A on the +12 rail. That means each Rail is allowed up to 18A lets say for the new Enermax 1.2 version like the one I have.
Now, Lets say 18A for 12V....well as you know the Abit NF7-S uses the 12V for powering the CPU.
Lets say you have a Barton like me and you want it stable at around 2.4-2.5Ghz. You will have to put lets say around 2V to the cpu to get it stable at that kinda speed, specially if you have high FSB like I do. So 12V * 18Amps = 216W ....well the converter on the NFS-7 is really bad, its loss on the step down convertion is probably around 25% along with the PSU lost cuz its not running at 25oC (another 15%)....you will actually only get around 100-120W for the CPU.
Now, if you go into Sandra and see how much a Barton eats up at 2.4Ghz you will see its around 110Watts.
So, if you wanna push more, dont even think about it! Prime Power test fails and your +12 rail will drop as low as 11.60 Volts.
Now, lets say you got yourself a AMD 64 bit chip and you wanna overclock it....I bet it will need more than 110Watts.
So, what im saying is, dont buy nothing less than a 500 Watt PSU!
You really need around 20-22 A on the main +12 along with really really good cooling on the case and PSU so it is running at a 100%.
http://forums.amdmb.com/showindex.php?s=&threadid=287828
i found this quite interesting especially the bit re the power loss turning the 12v into 1.6v or what ever cpu needs

Do I need to replace video graphic card or power supply unit on hp compaq presario sr2180nx

hello all
i saw a similar post over 4 years ago, however it doesn't address my issue.
my pc started stalling when i attempt to turn it on. It wouldn't come on. Then after several tries every now and then it would come on. I was told through searching that it could be the video graphic card or the power supply. Therefore once i had the computer back on. I never shut it off. However, i could reboot and it would come on.
Now it won't come on again. So i don't know what to replace. The video graphic card or the power supply. If it is the graphic card, do i replace the one previously installed or add a new one. And if adding a new one, what is recommended to be compatible with my 300 watt supply unit? I'm lost as what route to take and how.Below are the details of my unit.
HP/Compaq Presario SR2180NX desktop PC with a P5LP-LE motherboard with an Integrated graphics using Intel GMA 950.
*Integrated video is not available if a graphics card is installed.
Also supports PCI Express x16 graphics cards
300 watt supply.
thank you in advance for any help you can give me.

Is there an add-in video card in the slot? If so, remove it and try to turn on. If the problem is the video card it will turn on. If not it is the power supply.

Power consumption with dual power supply

Hi,
I need to know how dual power supply works, I mean, when you have two power supplies in a router if both of them are working at the same time, or if one of them is working while the other one only begin to work when the first one stops.
And if both of them are working at the same time, what is the power consumption, the same as if only one of them was working?
Thanks

marianares0001 wrote:Hi,I need to know how dual power supply works, I mean, when you have two power supplies in a router if both of them are working at the same time, or if one of them is working while the other one only begin to work when the first one stops.And if both of them are working at the same time, what is the power consumption, the same as if only one of them was working?Thanks
The implementation details can potentially differ per product category but usually the following is applicable:
The product provides configurable power redundancy modes and choosing a mode dictates whether load will be shared across supplies or whether a particular supply will be dedicated for redundancy.
If both (or more) supplies are working at the same time then both share the power load.
The actual power consumption depends on the power required to run the installed components and is the same whether you use power supplies in redundant or power sharing mode.
Atif

Variable power supply not working in virtual elvis

When i make a virtual elvis 3d schematic i cannot get any output from the variable power source, i have played with it alot and still no output. please help.

Thank you for your time to help me out,
I got it to work using the shift+P and shift+n hotkeys. A suggestion I have is to remove the shift restraint for the GUI interface P and N buttons that appear on the screen after you highlight variable power supply, as it is non-intuitive for a user to know you must hold shift then press GUI buttons as well. I suggest coding those visual buttons to alias SHIFT+P and SHIFT+N operations when you click on them for ease of user interface.

QuickSilver G4 (M8360LL/A) Power Supply W/Dead Fan, Would Like To Discuss

Hey Everyone,
I recently discovered my Power Mac QuickSilver G4 (M8360LL/A -- http://support.apple.com/specs/powermac/PowerMac_G4Quicksilver.html) has a dead fan within the power supply. Running an open-case test shows all other fans are working fine. Currently I have a high RPM floor fan blowing A/C air directly into/against the rear of the chassis.
I've done some research on my options, but would like some help making the best choice:
(1) Purchase a replacement power supply.
(2) Install a replacement fan directly into the power supply since it still appears to be functioning normally.
(3) Purchase a cheaper alternative, but compatible power supply?
I'll discuss my research into each possibility in order:
(1) I've found a small number of sites selling replacement power supplies for the QuickSilver G4 systems (shipping not factored into the prices I'm listing):
(a) $174.00 from DV Warehouse (http://www.dvwarehouse.com/Power-Supply-344-W-PM-G4-Quick-Silver(733-800-867-933-1ghz/Dual)-p-20361.html)
(b) $179.99 from Mac-Resource (http://www.mac-resource.com/store.php?item=6612513.PART)
(c) $219.95 from WeLoveMacs (http://www.welovemacs.com/posu344wapog.html)
(d) At the time I searched, I didn't see anyone selling the same model power supply on eBay.
If I choose to purchase a replacement, I'll most likely go with the cheapest vendor since it's listing the part as new.
(2) I'm not confident enough to attempt a fan replacement, and since the power supply fan has been dead for an unknown length of time, I'm not entirely confident it hasn't been damaged from excessive heat. If anyone has a link or useful document that explains how to replace the power supply fan safely, I'd be open to the option. Right now, the most information I currently have is the physical specifications of the original fan (correct me if I'm wrong!):
Protechnic 80x80x25mm MAGIC (made by Sechang Micro)
12 Volt, 0.24 Amp
38.27 CFM, 3000 RPM (max), 29 dBA
P/N: MGA8012HS
I would probably want a better alternative if I went this route, since I didn't expect the fan to die quite this soon (although I generally run my system 24/x7).
(3) I found this other post where another G4 QuickSilver user had the same problem: http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2198292
That thread has a link to the following site with recommendation for purchasing power supplies:
http://www.Performance-PCs.com/
However, I've limited experience with voltage requirements and I don't know anything about the physical connector or dimensions of the power supply itself. At best, I know the model of my power supply is 614-0157 and can max out at 344 W.
If anyone has input and suggestions to help me fully explore my options, I'd really appreciate it. Otherwise I'll land on safe ground by buying an entire replacement of the same model, swap it out, and be done with it.
Power Mac G4 QuickSilver (M8360LL/A) Mac OS X (10.3.9) 2 GHz Processor Upgrade (Giga Designs), 1.5 GB RAM, 5 Internal HDDs

I decided to purchase a replacement power supply from DV Warehouse, since it was the cheapest vendor I could find selling the part as new.
When time permits, I intend to open the original power supply cover to see how challenging it would be to replace the fan. When I do, I'll add more about it to this thread.
One thing I'm noticing with this power supply fan while it's still in use with my system: If I push on a fan blade with a plastic stick while the system is powered up, I'll see the fan revolve a little (very slowly) before stopping. Not sure if that can be a useful clue as to which component within the power supply could have failed.
PB PM - About your earlier comment to blowing A/C air against the back of the case being more of a hinderance than helpful, is that true even when the component has no assisted airflow at all? In other words, my logic in using a floor fan to force colder air into the power supply is to help cool the components within it since there is otherwise only natural airflow to help keep the PS from overheating.
Thanks!

Adding third party video card to P700 - no power connectors? New Power Supply Question...

Hello,
I have a new P700 30A90012US with a 650W PSU and that didn't come with a video card. I am planning to use it as a DAW and for occasional gaming via a dual boot.
I wanted to put in a third party video card like a nVidea 970 but there aren't ANY connectors for video cards that I can find inside. The monitor I have is a 3440x1440 monitor. I have ordered a second 2609 Processor and RAM from Lenovo and have the following questions:
Once I install the second processor, how much wattage for a video card is available to me?
I understand that the 3rd party video card isn't supported but how do I attach power to it?
If it is required that I have to replace the 650 power supply with an 850, does it come with the required cable? I only see a 4 pin connector on the mobo that is unused (and I believe it is for additional hdd)
I tried searching but I am at a loss.
Thanks,

Your config isn't really power hungry (and the 85W CPUs help a lot). Though technically outside of the official spec, I think you could easily go to a 225W card for graphics if you had the connectors available to support it. I'll double check the current when I get a chance, but it's probably really low risk if you want to convert your single 6-pin connector to dual 6-pin or a single 8-pin (via a dongle) to get to 225W TDP if you wanted to.
The PSU design is very modular, but unfortunately it's the aux power cable drops that kept it from being an easy field upgradable part. I always recommend that people buy the larger PSU if they ever think they'll be doing any upgrades in the future just to make sure they are covered.
And like I said if you're comfortable working inside the system, it's not impossible to upgrade that cable drop on your own if you want to go up to the 850W. You'd have to get the cable and PSU, but after that it would require removing the motherboard and PSU, cutting some cable ties and routing the new cable, then getting everything routed correctly such that the motherboard reinstalls cleanly.

Where can i buy a power supply replacement (UK)

Hi
my power adapter for WRT54GS is broken
I've checked it using a friends power supply (he has the same router)
even though i only brought it early last year so its still under warranty
I missplaced my reciept and cant find it
so Im looking around the internet for a replacement but cant find
any1 know where i can buy 1??
this is whats written on the power adapter:
Model No AD 23/1C
Model No: 12100BS
PRI. :230V~50Hz 100mA
SEC. :12V 1000Ma 12VA
btw im in the UK so need a UK plug
really appreciated any help

You got a problem on you hands . Call Linksys and ask them to see where you can get a replacment

Replacing the power supply

Hi,
My old PowerMac G4 (Gbit Ethernet) does not power up anymore. When I press the power button nothing happens at all. I suspect a recent power outage might be to blame - when the power returned the power supply to my router was dead and two fuses popped in the fusebox during the following weeks.
Luckily I bought a new Mac Mini 6 months ago and most of the data has already been copied to the new harddrive.
If it's possible I'd like to try and repair the G4 myself. I was hoping I could use a power supply I had salvaged from an old PC. The dimensions are the same but it seems some of the connectors are a bit different. For example the power connector to the motherboard has 2x11 pins instead of 2x10 and the one for the fan looks different too.
I've tested the voltage of the lithium battery and it's still working. Same goes for the PC power supply. The G4 is supposed to get 28 V of 'trickle' power through the two extra pins; here however I get nothing.
Is it possible to buy/get hold of a new power supply that suits the G4 or is this another one of Apple's crafty non-standard solutions?
So, what are your thoughts?

Hi-
You have a few options-
1- A used PSU
2- Using a wall wart to provide the 28v trickle, along with an ATX(PC) PSU, or,
3- An aftermarket PSU already to go in, from Nextro.
For modifying, and using an ATX PSU, check Out of Spec and Xlr8yourMac.

CiscoWorks how many switches in stack + dual Power supply usage

Hi,
Please tell me that is it possible to see in CiscoWorks that device with dual power supplies is using both or just one. e.g 6500
Also I need to count the total number of physical switches in the company but I am only able to generate a inventory report that only shows logical devices, but it do not show if the switch is stack then how many physical switches are in stack.
Is it also possible to count the total number of physical devices in the company instead of just logical devices.
I am using the
LMS: 1.2.0
RME: 4.3.0
CS:    3.3.0
CM:   5.2.1
DFM: 3.2.0
Thanks.

Thanks for reply.
In the detailed device view I am able to see that switch has 2 power supply, but but unable to see that its using either only one or both. But I understand your point that if its not visible here then its not possible.
Explainantion of my second query: My company want to know that how many physical switches has been installed. We manage over 2500 logical switches in the company and management want to have a report showing that how many total physical switches exist.
Is it possible to generate a report which shows that each logical switch contains how many physical swithes and/ or total number of physical switches in the company.
e.g MLS001 (logical switch) contains sw1 (physical switch), sw2 (physical switch), sw3 (physical switch), sw4 (physical switch)
     MLS002 (logical switch) contains sw1 (physical switch), sw2 (physical switch)
CiscoWorks generate a report shows that 6 physical switches exist.
Please reply ASAP. Thanks

Designing variable output power supply

hi
could anyone help me out in designing variable output power supply ?
as i am new to this please post the circuit and also the step by step procedures in developing the circuit.

Hi rckz,
The link below has an example of a variable power supply.
http://www.google.ca/imgres?imgurl=http://howcircuits.com/downloads/circuits-and-diagrams/power-supp...
You can try to find the components in Multisim by right-clicking and going to Place Component. You can look through the database and place them on the schematic and then wire them as shown in the schematic.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Tayyab R,
National Instruments.

Power supply, how many Watts?

Hello!
I had som trouble when doing music on Steinberg Cubase SX2. When the CPU load reached 30% it started to jump, up to 30% extra and then back. Once it occured it continued pumping up and down.
I increased the performance mode in Bios from Slow to Turbo on my 875N NEO main board, and it worked. But not for long since the computer turned back to Slow mode without me doing anything. After turning back to Turbo once again the system didn't boot. The D-Bracket's diagnostic LED's gave this message:
"Boot Attempt - This will set low stack and boot via INT 19h"
I don't know what this means.
I let my system cool off and restarted it and it worked - in Slow mode!
I got the feeling that the power supply couldn't deliver enough Watts and Performance mode automaticly turned back to a safe mode.
My power supply delivers 300W. This is what I have installed:
1 DVD-ROM
1 CD burner
2 Harddisks
Graphics card - MSI Gforce4 MX440SE-T
Sound card - EMU 1212m
In performance Slow mode - I have used the diagnostic tool SiSoft Sandra and getting very different results when running CPU, memory and cache benchmarks. Sometimes the results are half of what the supplied reference curves indicates. But other times everthing is correct. All the bus speeds are OK.
Can this be explained by not enough Watts. If so how much power should a system like mine have?
KA

Here's a post I wrote in May in another forum, when I discovered the importance of a good PSU
Your system crashes? Did you really...
...check all components??
In 90% of cases, you will forget the most important component, the Power Supply Unit (PSU). Before spending money in changing RAM, MB, graphic card, read this:
I Wanted to share my experience in my last crash issues.
I have a fast P4 2.8G 512Mb, GT4600, 2HD, 2 optic drives...
Never had issues, till I begun adding hardware:
LAN, Surround Sound, wireless keyboard/mouse, USB hubs, IEEE devices...
Random varried hang-ups, reboots, crashes, never the same circumstances
I noticed a CPU temperature increase. Suspecting an overheating, I tried running my PC with the case open. My problems became very rare.
Then, I upgraded to a Radeon 9600 Pro: crashes, reboots, overheating of CPU. I invested in a ThermalTake Subzero 4G cooler with independent power supply. My problems disappeared or rather became sparse. I again thought it's the overheating.
Last week, my Subzero 4G advanced cooler died, and the CPU burned up to 75¡ã before crashing. I returned my subzero and went with a Zalman 7000Al-Cu cooler.
System experienced seldom reboots, crashes and was no longer possible to work on it. Sometimes, it will reboot during the boot process, before even windows begins to load.
This time, I finally thought at my Power Supply Unit, a generic 300 Watt.
Browsed a bit on google, and found that my 300 watt would never be able to supply my too heavy equipped system.
The Power Supply Unit (PSU), is maybe one of the most important components in a PC. But it's also one of the less known. we often buy or assemble a PC. The case includes often cheap generic 300-350 Watt PSU. All works, till the day you add a HD, buy a new power hungry graphic adapter, increase RAM... then crashes, reboots, overheating appear.
They are related to the PSU delivering high load voltages to the units and low voltage to other parts, since it is over loaded. Often it ends with CPU overheating, PCI/AGP cards burned. In my case, I now think it was overvoltage to burn my PCI card controlled Subzero Cooler.
After long hours of browsing the forums for PSU reviews, I changed to an Antec Truepower 550 watt PSU, and no more reboots, crashes or over heating.
Also, this solved my LAN router (supporting 1024 sessions) being reset under emule. Probabily too much power requested by the many open connections that my PSU couldn't deliver.
An advice, if you experience crashes during games, burning CDs, reading CDroms, overcloaking or especially sudden reboots, check your configuration. If you have something like a P4, a new power graphic card, plenty of HD, then look at your PSU. If it is some generic 300-350 Watt, before changing RAM, motherboard, graphic card to solve problems, spend soome 150$ in an Antec or Enermax 480-550 watt PSU, and most of your headaches will be solved.
Take a review of PSUs here
http://www.anandtech.com/showdoc.html?i=1841&p=1
they don't include the TruePower 550, but the TrueControl 550. They are just same, but the TrueControl have a front panel to manually adjust voltages, only for hardcore overclockers.
If you wonder, why at the begining my problems were solved just by running the system with case opened, then you must know that all PSU have their output power decrease as temperature increases. All sold PSU in the public market have their max output tested at 25C. At 70C, they are all rated for 0 Watt output. You understand the importance of a well supplied, but also well cooled system. The best in the market is Antec/Enermax. Take care with Q-Tec low price PSU, many bad reports on MSI motherboards forums
Q-Tec warning!!!!

2500 router power supply schematic?

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