A question on digital out on macbook
My friend is interested in a macbook for duties at hifi shows.
As his business is hifi he needs to know if a digital optical lead connected to a macbook outputs at 48000hz?
Basically I think the idea is to play uncompressed music off the mac book into some hifi. He does not want the output to be any kind of bottle neck.
Sadly the tech specs on the apple website are not very technical.
Cheers
This may be helpful:
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=303722
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Question regarding Digital Out (COAX) not mini plug on Audigy ZS
Hi.
I have a question regarding the Digital Out and Digital In (COAX/RCA) Inputs I have on the back of my computer and if theres an easy way to hook the digital out with only a regular Digital Coax cable to a Home Theater receiver and get 5./DTS, OR do u have to use the 6 channel/analog (by using 3cables)or using the digital out (miniplug to RCA).
IF not what are these connectors for and what kind of sound streams do these inputs handle.
/Regardswmadoss,
Do you have the Audigy 2 ZS Platinum or Platinum Pro? The normal Audigy 2 ZS card on it's own does not have any RCA SPDIF output/input, only the dri'vebays do. If you have a Platinum/Platinum Pro set, with an external dri've, then you can connect an RCA to RCA cable directly to that, and then to your receiver.
If you have a standard Audigy 2 ZS card then you will need to use a minijack to RCA (female) adapter first, and then connect the RCA to RCA cable to that.
For music and games it's best to use the three analog outputs.
Cat
Message Edited by Catherina-CL on -9-2004 09:5 AM -
When I unplug Apple headphones from my MacBook Pro sond from internal speakers not work, and system soud preferences displayed: Output: optical digital out port only
If you see a red light in the audio output port, then the internal switch is stuck. Insert the earphone plug a few times and see if you can trip the switch. If that fails, insert a cocktail stirrer and the like and jiggle it around inside. If that fails, take it to an Apple store and have the technicians at the genius bar do it for you.
Ciao. -
My MacBook Pro has no audio. Sounds preferences showing output is Optical digital-out port. How do I change this to built-in speakers?
I experienced this same problem yesterday on my MacBook Pro, still searching for a solution, several other posts here indicate people have been experiencing this since at lease 2007. I have yet to find a clear solution.
It appears that occasionally inserting headphone causes this, it turns on the Optical digital-out port feature (red light glows inside the headphone port) and takes away the internal speakers option. Restarting did not restore it, but for some reason after sitting asleep overnight the sound started working again and the internal speaker option return in the Sound - Output Window, and the Optical Digital-out option went away.
Here is another post with some ideas on this
https://discussions.apple.com/message/4160477#4160477 -
Macbook audio output freezes on digital out
After plugging inand removing my headphone jack, I can no longer access the internal speakers on my MacBook. The only option that the System Prefs gives me is Digital Out. Any ideas?
Talked to Tech Support about this when my machine locked up in this same fashion. There's a little "door" inside the headphone jack that can get stuck in the open position and keep the audio from switching back to the internal speakers / stuck in the digital (optical) output position...
The solution: the iPick... It's a toothpick, but if you use it to poke around inside the headphone jack until the little door gets unstuck, it becomes an iPick, and a box of them are very expensive, but they come in lovely colors and are very intuitive to use...
I'm not kidding... Stick a toothpick (or other non-conductive small stick) in the headphone jack and joog it around until it releases the little door... -
Stuck in headphone (optical digital-out port) mode. What do I do? Plugging and unplugging headphone jack no help.
Do you see a red light in the headphone jack?? If you do, then the microswitch is stuck and you need to turn it off. Try poking it with a toothpick.
If you don't see a red light, then try resetting the SMC and PRAM and see if these helps. Here are the links.
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht3964
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1379 -
Audio output changed to 'Digital Out' and speakers don't work! Please help!
I'm not exactly sure what's happened, but after starting up my macbook pro, my speakers/audio haven't worked.
The volume control in the menu bar is inactive (looks light grey) and in the Sound menu, I have no option for output devices except for 'Digital Out' - there is no other option for 'external speakers' (as per usual) or anything!
I can plug earphones in, and sound comes out fine... I don't know what may have happened, but I'm really worried - I use my MBP for home & work; I need my speakers to work!!
If anyone can offer any advice, I'd be really grateful. Thank you in advance.Talked to Tech Support about this when my machine locked up in this same fashion. There's a little "door" inside the headphone jack that can get stuck in the open position and keep the audio from switching back to the internal speakers / stuck in the digital (optical) output position...
The solution: the iPick... It's a toothpick, but if you use it to poke around inside the headphone jack until the little door gets unstuck, it becomes an iPick, and a box of them are very expensive, but they come in lovely colors and are very intuitive to use...
I'm not kidding... Stick a toothpick (or other non-conductive small stick) in the headphone jack and joog it around until it releases the little door... -
help. I have a Google Hangout in 40mins and my sound seems to have vanished. I went to Sys Prefs and it came up with Digital Out....and the Internal Speakers option is no longer there. How do I reboot, or fix this please?
There are many possible causes for this issue. Take each of the following steps that you haven't already tried. Some may not apply to your model. Back up all data before making any changes.
1. Start with the steps recommended in this support article. Don't skip any of the steps. It's the starting point for further efforts to solve the problem.
2. Make sure you have a fully up-to-date installation of OS X.
3. If you've installed an application called "Memory Clean" or any other third-party software that is supposed to "clean" or "purge" memory automatically, remove it according to the developer's instructions and restart. You should do that even if the software is not causing the problem, because it's useless.
4. Other third-party software that has been reported to interfere with sound output includes "Boom" and "Samsung Kies." If applicable, uninstall according to the developer's instructions (not by dragging something to the Trash.)
5. If an AirPlay device is selected for sound output from iTunes (or from other applications via third-party software such as "Airfoil"), deselect it.
6. Launch the application "Audio MIDI Setup" by entering the first few letters of its name in a Spotlight search and selecting it in the results (it should be at the top.) Select Built-in Output from the list on the left. If the Mute boxes are checked, uncheck them.
7. If a red light is visible in the audio-out port when sound should be playing, the internal switch is stuck in the position for digital output. You may be able to free it by inserting and removing a mini-stereo jack of the proper size. If not, the machine needs to be serviced. Inserting any kind of tool in the port may cause damage that won't be covered by the warranty.
If there's no red light, the switch may still be stuck in the headphone position. Try to free it the same way.
8. Disconnect all wired peripherals except keyboard and mouse, if applicable. If more than one display is connected, disconnect all extra ones. Restart and test.
9. If you have a MacBook Air, turn off Bluetooth and restart.
10. Start up in safe mode. Don't log in; just restart as usual when the login screen appears. When you do, make sure the words "Safe Boot" do not appear in the login screen. If they do, the system is still in safe mode and sound won't work.
11. Reset the NVRAM.
12. Reset the SMC.
13. Triple-click anywhere in the line below on this page to select it:
/Library/Preferences/Audio
Right-click or control-click the highlighted line and select
Services ▹ Reveal in Finder (or just Reveal)
from the contextual menu.* A folder should open with an item selected. Move the selected item to the Trash. You may be prompted for your administrator login password. Restart the computer and empty the Trash. Recreate your settings in the Sound preference pane.
*If you don't see the contextual menu item, copy the selected text to the Clipboard by pressing the key combination command-C. In the Finder, select
Go ▹ Go to Folder...
from the menu bar and paste into the box that opens by pressing command-V. You won't see what you pasted because a line break is included. Press return.
14. Reinstall OS X after backing up all data.
15. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store. -
Sound Preferences: switches from Internal Speakers to Digital Out
I've been having this problem recently. I sent the computer off to Apple a few weeks ago and it helped for a while, but no longer.
My computer has a problem with it's sound output jack or something. Without inserting anything into the plug, the Sound will change for "Internal Speakers" to "Digital Out" and to "Built-in Output" in the Sound Preferences Panel.
Any suggestions?
Message was edited by: davidszczI have a 4 month old macbook and experiencing the same problem. Just realized it after installing itunes 8 and since then having a stuttering audio playback problem too. When i plug my headphones into the audiojack the sound switches from headphones to speakers and back as well as itunes playing tracks in a stop and go mode. I repaired the rights several times, installed quicktime 7.5.5 again, reinstalled itunes 8 and for sure running the latest leopard version 10.5.5.
Also thought it could be a hardware problem but after reading this it seems more software related.
Any idea? -
Recenty used a Macbook Pro with analogue out to my amp and there was no latency at all. Bought a new iMac and got a Toslink cable with adaptor and connected to same amp. There is slight latency using the digital out! Can anyone explain why? I don't really want to go back to using the digital cable because I have the surround sound setup that works well with the optical cable.
error: I don't really want to go back to using the ANALOGUE cable....
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where to find the best application for cleaning out my MacBook Air with OS X 10.7.5? I've been using MacKeeper but believe it's slowing down my laptop considerable. Thank you.
How to maintain a Mac
1. Make redundant backups, keeping at least one off site at all times. One backup is not enough. Don’t back up your backups; make them independent of each other. Don’t rely completely on any single backup method, such as Time Machine. If you get an indication that a backup has failed, don't ignore it.
2. Keep your software up to date. In the Software Update preference pane, you can configure automatic notifications of updates to OS X and other Mac App Store products. Some third-party applications from other sources have a similar feature, if you don’t mind letting them phone home. Otherwise you have to check yourself on a regular basis. This is especially important for complex software that modifies the operating system, such as device drivers. Before installing any Apple update, you must check that all such modifications that you use are compatible.
3. Don't install crapware, such as “themes,” "haxies," “add-ons,” “toolbars,” “enhancers," “optimizers,” “accelerators,” "boosters," “extenders,” “cleaners,” "doctors," "tune-ups," “defragmenters,” “firewalls,” "barriers," “guardians,” “defenders,” “protectors,” most “plugins,” commercial "virus scanners,” "disk tools," or "utilities." With very few exceptions, this stuff is useless, or worse than useless. Above all, avoid any software that purports to change the look and feel of the user interface.
The more actively promoted the product, the more likely it is to be garbage. The most extreme example is the “MacKeeper” scam.
As a rule, the only software you should install is that which directly enables you to do the things you use a computer for — such as creating, communicating, and playing — and does not modify the way other software works. Use your computer; don't fuss with it.
Safari extensions, and perhaps the equivalent for other web browsers, are a partial exception to the above rule. Most are safe, and they're easy to get rid of if they don't work. Some may cause the browser to crash or otherwise malfunction. Some are malicious. Use with caution, and install only well-known extensions from relatively trustworthy sources, such as the Safari Extensions Gallery.
Never install any third-party software unless you know how to uninstall it. Otherwise you may create problems that are very hard to solve.
4. Beware of trojans. A trojan is malicious software (“malware”) that the user is duped into installing voluntarily. Such attacks were rare on the Mac platform until sometime in 2011, but are now increasingly common, and increasingly dangerous.
There is some built-in protection against downloading malware, but you can’t rely on it — the attackers are always at least one day ahead of the defense. You can’t rely on third-party protection either. What you can rely on is common-sense awareness — not paranoia, which only makes you more vulnerable.
Never install software from an untrustworthy or unknown source. If in doubt, do some research. Any website that prompts you to install a “codec” or “plugin” that comes from the same site, or an unknown site, is untrustworthy. Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be acquired directly from the developer. No intermediary is acceptable, and don’t trust links unless you know how to parse them. Any file that is automatically downloaded from a web page without your having requested it should go straight into the Trash. A website that claims you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, is rogue.
In OS X 10.7.5 or later, downloaded applications and Installer packages that have not been digitally signed by a developer registered with Apple are blocked from loading by default. The block can be overridden, but think carefully before you do so.
Because of recurring security issues in Java, it’s best to disable it in your web browsers, if it’s installed. Few websites have Java content nowadays, so you won’t be missing much. This action is mandatory if you’re running any version of OS X older than 10.6.8 with the latest Java update. Note: Java has nothing to do with JavaScript, despite the similar names. Don't install Java unless you're sure you need it. Most people don't.
5. Don't fill up your boot volume. A common mistake is adding more and more large files to your home folder until you start to get warnings that you're out of space, which may be followed in short order by a boot failure. This is more prone to happen on the newer Macs that come with an internal SSD instead of the traditional hard drive. The drive can be very nearly full before you become aware of the problem. While it's not true that you should or must keep any particular percentage of space free, you should monitor your storage consumption and make sure you're not in immediate danger of using it up. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of free space on the startup volume for normal operation.
If storage space is running low, use a tool such as the free application OmniDiskSweeper to explore your volume and find out what's taking up the most space. Move rarely-used large files to secondary storage.
6. Relax, don’t do it. Besides the above, no routine maintenance is necessary or beneficial for the vast majority of users; specifically not “cleaning caches,” “zapping the PRAM,” "resetting the SMC," “rebuilding the directory,” "defragmenting the drive," “running periodic scripts,” “dumping logs,” "deleting temp files," “scanning for viruses,” "purging memory," "checking for bad blocks," "testing the hardware," or “repairing permissions.” Such measures are either completely pointless or are useful only for solving problems, not for prevention.
The very height of futility is running an expensive third-party application called “Disk Warrior” when nothing is wrong, or even when something is wrong and you have backups, which you must have. Disk Warrior is a data-salvage tool, not a maintenance tool, and you will never need it if your backups are adequate. Don’t waste money on it or anything like it. -
Digital Out activated when regular headphones plugged in.
Hi, guys.
I've been fiddling with this for a couple days now.
When I plug regular headphones or speakers into my MacBooks jack, the systems goes into Digital Out mode and thus, no sound can be heard from the headphones. If I plug them out, the internal speakers go back on and sound is back to normal.
After a lot of researching, I found a common issue, where the microswitch inside the audio jack would get stuck, and therefore the digital audio would always be active, even without anything plugged in. I don't think this is the same issue, since the system DOES KNOW when the jack is free, since I can easily switch back to internal speakers by plugging out. That's why I don't think the microswitch is stuck in my case.
I've noticed the red light turns on when headphones are plugged in. Somehow, it thinks any plug is a digital audio plug.
At this point, I've tried:
SMC reset
Wiggling a toothpick inside the audio jack
Deleting some audio plist files in my preferences folder
MIDI Audio configuration
Any tip will be preciated. I'm not in the mood to send it to have the motherboard replaced.
Thanks a lot for any hints!Thanks. I already tried that twice, but didn't work.
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I have just bought a new Audigy 2 ZS, but I have a question regarding the possible use of the digital out of the card for my Logitech 560 speakers, with some kind og adabter/converter, as I find it to be quite a hassle to crawl under my desk everytime I have to use my headset.
I have read that I can use an adabter for my Line Out and 2, but that is lovering the sound on the one that the headset is connected to, so I really don't like that option, as that isn't ideal when gaming and using speakers.Jutapa wrote
Hi This may become quite expensi've (thought). You need an adapter to split signal (from output to dig speakers and DAC) so you do not have to swap cables when changing between speakers/headphones, and a DAC to convert signal from digital to analog. DAC must be capable to convert multi channel input into 2 channel stereo output. You find available devices by googling. .jtp
As I see it, I need a device that will make it possible to get my analog speaker witch has two connectors, that tight now occupies the Line Out and 2 on my soundcard, making it impossible to connect my headset at the same time, unless I find a way to use the Digital output
I also don't understand why it's not possible to use the many "pins" on the soundcard, for my headset, as I would guess that when you buy a Creative Soundblaster Audigy 2 ZS Platinum , you get some sort of cable that goes from these "pins" to the front panel? I would really like to be able to use these "pins" to connect my CoolerMaster Stacker I/O Panel http://www.coolermaster.com/index.ph...0+CM%20Stacker
Message Edited by Blind-Goose on 04-7-2005 02:37 PM -
I have no Digital Out Only Box. It does not appear where it is shown in the help file. How can I set this setting without the box?
ok. this is going to sound super weird, but i just right now had to fix this.
1. i reset the PRAM (not sure that had anything to do with anything)
2. then i reset the SMC
3. THEN i reset the SMC w/ headphones plugged in...
then, after searching all over and reading the post below....i just plugged/unplugged my headphones a few times...and it worked....very strange, and i'd still like a REAL answer...but that worked...here you go;
I tried all those software resets, but the solution lay elsewhere. My problem (like that apparently of many others) was caused by the audio out port thinking I was using a digital audio out feature. I could find no software override for what is fundamentally a hardware problem - a small switch flipped inside my Macbook's audio port. Something in the shape of my headphone's connector seems to have tripped a small switch in the audio port.
So all I did was take a very small device like a paperclip, safety pin, or toothpick, and push (fairly gently) on the 6 or 7'oclock position of the audio out port. That's all it took. If you're playing music, you can just keep trying until you hear something again.
I'm not clear whether this is entirely an Apple design issue, or whether some of the newfangled audio connections being used just don't play well with Apple's ports. My issue repeats if I insert the suspect connector back in the port, and then I have to reset it again. It may be that if you use a different connector, it doesn't get tripped - worth trying different headphones/audio out cables to see if there's one that isn't a problem if this becomes for you (like me) a potential chronic bother. -
HELP! Adobe Production Premium on a decked out 2014 macbook pro 13 inch.
Hello fine apple community.
I have a few questions that hopefully someone can help out with. I've tried to search high and low but had no luck.
I currently have an imac for my video editing needs. I have Adobe CS5 Production Premium. I would like to get a second computer to do some video stuff while i'm at work when I have downtime. Mostly editing in Premiere and some effects work in After Effects. Nothing major, just keying, green screen work, etc. I also do a lot of Photoshop.
With my uses listed above, I was looking at getting a decked out 13inch macbook pro. I was planning on updated the processor to - 2.8 dual core intel i7 processor. I was also going to upgrade the ram to 16GB. I don't think there's anything else I could upgrade with this model.
My question is, will the above macbook pro handle Premiere, after effects and photoshop?
I've tried to do some reading about dedicated GPU vs the integrated that is in the 13 inch macbook pros. I'm kind of confused on all that stuff and have never been able to find an answer if a macbook pro 13 inch will handle Adobe software with it's integrated processor?
Secondly, I feel like a pain asking this but when editing on premiere, I read that you should always have your video clips and your project saved to an external harddrive.... I'm guessing that's the external scratch disk? As it ill use of less processing power and ram than if you were editing on your internal harddrive? Is this correct? Should all video work be done with the project and video clips saved on an external harddrive?
Any other tips that I should be aware of when handling editing video?
Thanks so much.That's an odd problem. If it were me I think I'd do a full backup to an external drive and reinstall the OS from the Recovery partition. If an "in-place" install (meaning overwriting the existing system files) doesn't work, the next step would be to wipe the disk and install a fresh copy.
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