Advice on what SATA drives to buy

I want to install 2 sata drives as RAID0 on SATA 1,2. It looks like i should stay away from the WD and Maxtor because of the BxP bridge chip issues, right? (Don't know what vendor has what vintage in stock, and I want to avoid the RMA loop). So that leaves me with Seagate:
Which one?: (from their web site)
Barracuda 7200.7 SATA
Barracuda Serial ATA V
Barracuda 7200.7 SATA plus
Best Regards

I have had the Seagate drives in my sig connected to both the Intel and the Promise controllers in Raid0 with no compatibility issues. For some reason myself and others have noticed that the Intel Raid0 config is slower than the Promise for read speeds. Write speeds are the same.

Similar Messages

Advice on what hard drive to buy for Raid

I will buying 8 of http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136544 these hard drives and i will be using a http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816131004 raid controller to put them in RAID 3. Western Digital sais that these hard drives are not suitable for raid, the only hard drive i can find that is, is this one http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136797. I was wondering if there is an actaul difference between these two that makes a difference. Also I was wondering if any of you guys know of another hard drive that would be good for raid that is below 100$.

Your drive and controller choice look good to me.
I have used an Areca controller with WD Blacks for the past couple of years, and so long as you do have some form of backup other than RAID 5 redundancy on your PC you should be OK with "consumer" drives (aka WD Blacks, Hitachi Deskstar, etc.) as opposed to "enterprise" drives intended for RAID systems (AKA WE RE3, RE4, Hitachi Ultrastar, etc.).
The enterprise drives have:
- generally better parts - possibly some companies pick the best platters with the fewest defects for their more expensive drives
- sometimes some features that help with vibrations caused by multiple drives in a PC all working in tandem
- almost always a feature that will keep the enterprise drive from continuing to try and correct any error while reading or writing beyond a set number of seconds; WD calles this TLER (Time Limited Error Recovery);
I've seen individuals suggesting that the spin-up time setting be increased from the default of .7 seconds up to 1 second when using consumer drives to help prevent consumer drives from being flagged as bad. I have not done this and I've never had a drive drop out in two years.
I have about 50% enterprise drives (RE3 1TB WD's) and about 50% consumer drives (Black 1TB 32MB cache) which are very similar, except for firmware. In two years I've had one bad drive; no data was lost, just performance of the RAID and even that was pretty subtle. And by the way it was one of the RE3 drives that did go bad, not one of the consumer drives! When I started with the WD drives it was possible to download some software and set the TLER time on the consumer drives and gain much of the benefits of the enterprise models without paying for the much more expensive drives. Then, about a year ago WD changed their WD Black line to defeat this utility (it was a WD TLER utility!) from working with their consumer drives any more; yes, their have been some upset users over this one!
Jim

Advice on purchasing SATA Drive for Thinkserver TS 130

Hi Folks,
My Current server has 500GB. Looking to add and additonal 500GB, based on the product specs, this is the p/n:
P/N 67Y2613 ThinkServer 500GB 7.2K 3.5 Enterprise SATA Hard Drive
what's the best place to buy online?. Can I get any SATA drive?
Thanks,
Edwin

i wouldn't consider the warranty an issue per se, more a choice. it's the owner's choice between having lenovo cover hardware under warranty or the drive's manufacturer. many companies and IT departments require the level of service and support offered by the PC manufacturer where others can get by supporting components on their own. again, it's a choice.
my personal advice would be to choose whichever option suits your needs best. if it's an aftermarket drive, that's ok.
jessica asked a similar question recently and you might find the discussion helpful.
ThinkStation C20
ThinkPad X1C · X220 · X60T · s30 · 600

Im traveling to New York in a few months and considering buying the new iPad while im there. Can anyone give me advice on what i need to buy while im there so as to be able to use to use it back here in the UK?? Any advice is much appreciated.

Im travelling to New York soon and consrdering buying a iPad while out there. Can anyone give me advice what i need to buythanks.
to allow me to use it back here in the UK?? Many thanks
Mark th

Buy the "AT&T" model iPad, not the Verizon one (which does not support SIM cards used most everywhere in the world). The ATT model comes with a SIM card, but you can then get one from a UK provider. Be sure it's a "microSIM" card, not the larger kind when back in the UK.

What combo drive to buy

Hi all
My daughter bought a 12" 600mhz ibook on ebay, and I would like to purchase and install for her a combo drive for Christmas. I feel I have missed a few good opportunities on ebay since I am not sure which brand to buy, nor do I know what the differences in description are, ie: some say" slot loading" some say "dual usb"...and so forth. Can anyone give me some direction here?
I know my Pismo G3 powerbook quite well inside and out, and have done most of the upgrades myself, but on this ibook I am clueless. Is this an easy install?
Thanks for any help.
Sarah

The Combo drive in my 800 MHz G3 iBook is a "Toshiba DVD-ROM SD-R2412," if that helps.
DT & T Computer Service sells compatible drives:
http://www.dttservice.com/ibookg3.html#ibkoptical
If you're looking at used, PowerBook Tech parts out iBooks and sells the parts.
It is not exactly easy:
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Mac/iBook-G3-12-Inch/Optical-Drive
MacService will do it for you for $185:
http://www.macservice.com/optical.cfm
Good luck!

What 1TB drives to buy?

Hi Guys,
I am about to buy 2x1TB drives to go inside my Powermac G5. Could someone let me know if the two types of drives I have linked to below are suitable? If not could you suggest a suitable 1TB alternative.
http://www.ebuyer.com/product/143288
http://www.ebuyer.com/product/150245
Thanks,
Dom

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/hitachi-western-digital-terabyte,2017-13.htm l
http://www.barefeats.com/harper14.html
http://forums.xlr8yourmac.com/drivedb/search.drivedb.lasso

I need some advice on what kind of virus protection program to buy.I am new to using a Mac,the promotional one is expired .I need to decide soon

I need advice about what security program to buy the promotional one is expired. To keep the Webfoot program is expensive.Is there another less costly one recommended ?

Mac users often ask whether they should install "anti-virus" (AV) software. The usual answer is "no." That answer is right, but it may give the wrong impression that there is no threat from what are loosely called "viruses." There is a threat, and you need to educate yourself about it.
1. This is a comment on what you should—and should not—do to protect yourself from malicious software ("malware") that circulates on the Internet and gets onto a computer as an unintended consequence of the user's actions.
It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the computer, or who has been able to take control of it remotely. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. AV software is not intended to, and does not, defend against such attacks.
The comment is long because the issue is complex. The key points are in sections 5, 6, and 10.
OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user. Internally Apple calls it "XProtect."
The malware recognition database used by XProtect is automatically updated; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
☞ It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
☞ It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
As new versions of OS X are released, it's not clear whether Apple will indefinitely continue to maintain the XProtect database of older versions such as 10.6. The security of obsolete system versions may eventually be degraded. Security updates to the code of obsolete systems will stop being released at some point, and that may leave them open to other kinds of attack besides malware.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't been checked for security by Apple unless it comes from the App Store, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
☞ It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
☞ A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
☞ An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
Apple has taken far too long to revoke the codesigning certificates of some known abusers, thereby diluting the value of Gatekeeper and the Developer ID program. Those lapses don't involve App Store products, however.
For the reasons given, App Store products, and—to a lesser extent—other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. Sandbox security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is effective against known threats, but not against unknown ones. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
5. The built-in security features of OS X reduce the risk of malware attack, but they are not, and never will be, complete protection. Malware is a problem of human behavior, not machine behavior, and no technological fix alone is going to solve it. Trusting software to protect you will only make you more vulnerable.
The best defense is always going to be your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "Trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and Internet criminals. If you're better informed than they think you are, you'll win. That means, in practice, that you always stay within a safe harbor of computing practices. How do you know when you're leaving the safe harbor? Below are some warning signs of danger.
Software from an untrustworthy source
☞ Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, doesn't come directly from the developer’s website. Do not trust an alert from any website to update Flash, or your browser, or any other software. A genuine alert that Flash is outdated and blocked is shown on this support page. Follow the instructions on the support page in that case. Otherwise, assume that the alert is fake and someone is trying to scam you into installing malware. If you see such alerts on more than one website, ask for instructions.
☞ Software of any kind is distributed via BitTorrent, or Usenet, or on a website that also distributes pirated music or movies.
☞ Rogue websites such as Softonic, Soft32, and CNET Download distribute free applications that have been packaged in a superfluous "installer."
☞ The software is advertised by means of spam or intrusive web ads. Any ad, on any site, that includes a direct link to a download should be ignored.
Software that is plainly illegal or does something illegal
☞ High-priced commercial software such as Photoshop is "cracked" or "free."
☞ An application helps you to infringe copyright, for instance by circumventing the copy protection on commercial software, or saving streamed media for reuse without permission. All "YouTube downloaders" are in this category, though not all are necessarily malicious.
Conditional or unsolicited offers from strangers
☞ A telephone caller or a web page tells you that you have a “virus” and offers to help you remove it. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
☞ A web site offers free content such as video or music, but to use it you must install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "downloader," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one.
☞ You win a prize in a contest you never entered.
☞ Someone on a message board such as this one is eager to help you, but only if you download an application of his choosing.
☞ A "FREE WI-FI !!!" network advertises itself in a public place such as an airport, but is not provided by the management.
☞ Anything online that you would expect to pay for is "free."
Unexpected events
☞ A file is downloaded automatically when you visit a web page, with no other action on your part. Delete any such file without opening it.
☞ You open what you think is a document and get an alert that it's "an application downloaded from the Internet." Click Cancel and delete the file. Even if you don't get the alert, you should still delete any file that isn't what you expected it to be.
☞ An application does something you don't expect, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
☞ Software is attached to email that you didn't request, even if it comes (or seems to come) from someone you trust.
I don't say that leaving the safe harbor just once will necessarily result in disaster, but making a habit of it will weaken your defenses against malware attack. Any of the above scenarios should, at the very least, make you uncomfortable.
6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it—not JavaScript—in your browsers.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a padlock icon in the address bar when visiting a secure site.
Stay within the safe harbor, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself.
7. Never install any commercial AV or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they are all worse than useless. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use one of the free security apps in the Mac App Store—nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial AV products?
☞ To recognize malware, the software depends on a database of known threats, which is always at least a day out of date. This technique is a proven failure, as a major AV software vendor has admitted. Most attacks are "zero-day"—that is, previously unknown. Recognition-based AV does not defend against such attacks, and the enterprise IT industry is coming to the realization that traditional AV software is worthless.
☞ Its design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere. In order to meet that nonexistent threat, commercial AV software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
☞ By modifying the operating system, the software may also create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
☞ Most importantly, a false sense of security is dangerous.
8. An AV product from the App Store, such as "ClamXav," has the same drawback as the commercial suites of being always out of date, but it does not inject low-level code into the operating system. That doesn't mean it's entirely harmless. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
An AV app is not needed, and cannot be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful, if at all, only for detecting Windows malware, and even for that use it's not really effective, because new Windows malware is emerging much faster than OS X malware.
Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else. A malicious attachment in email is usually easy to recognize by the name alone. An actual example:
London Terror Moovie.avi [124 spaces] Checked By Norton Antivirus.exe
You don't need software to tell you that's a Windows trojan. Software may be able to tell you which trojan it is, but who cares? In practice, there's no reason to use recognition software unless an organizational policy requires it. Windows malware is so widespread that you should assume it's in every email attachment until proven otherwise. Nevertheless, ClamXav or a similar product from the App Store may serve a purpose if it satisfies an ill-informed network administrator who says you must run some kind of AV application. It's free and it won't handicap the system.
The ClamXav developer won't try to "upsell" you to a paid version of the product. Other developers may do that. Don't be upsold. For one thing, you should not pay to protect Windows users from the consequences of their choice of computing platform. For another, a paid upgrade from a free app will probably have all the disadvantages mentioned in section 7.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
10. As a Mac user, you don't have to live in fear that your computer may be infected every time you install software, read email, or visit a web page. But neither can you assume that you will always be safe from exploitation, no matter what you do. Navigating the Internet is like walking the streets of a big city. It can be as safe or as dangerous as you choose to make it. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then feel safe enough to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.

What is the exact type of internal hard drive I buy?

Hi all, I want to upgrade my 160GB drive, can someone advise me on what exactly it is I have to buy. And also th ebest name brands. I have macbook 13". I know western digital are pretty good, any other ideas?
Tracy

Any 2.5" notebook SATA drive up to 320 GBs will work. The Samsung 500 GB drive will also work as it's the only one that is 9.5 mm high and will fit in a MacBook.
Notebook drives are available from many different manufacturers: Seagate, Toshiba, Hitachi, Fujitsu, Western Digital to name a few. You can find benchmarks, comparisons, and reviews at Bare Feats and Storage Review.

Whose SATA 750Gb internal drive to buy?

I have the Sonnet Tech, TSATA PCI to SATA controller (TSATA), It is a 2-port, 1.5Gb/sec internal.
I am trying to find a compatible 750Gb SATA drive, I was going to buy the Seagate until I read there is a problem with the firmware, something about 32mb cache not being recognized and it running dog-slow, also something about nor being able to flash the firmware form a MAC?
I also read on the Western Digital site they don't support MAC? Do they mean G4 IDE? or G5 SATA?
I'm sure they are not considering what third party interface I might have i.e. Sonnet.
Whose 750 SATA works well with Sonnet?

If this is the Sonnet PCI card you refer to - http://www.sonnettech.com/product/temposerialata.html.
then this site :-
http://www.macupgrades.co.uk/store/machine.php?name=powermac-g4-digital-audio#in t-hdd
lists some choices
or
http://lowendmac.com/ppc/digital-audio-power-mac-g4.html
this mentions the correct firmware upgrade
also take a look at
http://lowendmac.com/musings/mm07/1005.html
or try xlr8yourmac
http://forums.xlr8yourmac.com/drivedb/search.drivedb.lasso

Advice on what might be the best networked external hard drive to create my own cloud storage?

Anyone have any advice on what might be the best networked external hard drive to create my own cloud storage? That way I can have access to all my stored files, songs, pictures and most of all movies on lets say my laptop or iPad. Since there is not very much storage on the iPad. I want to be able to access my hundreds of movies that I have from in my home on my network or away from my home as long as I have an internet connection. I know there is a Seagate one and a Western digital one, does anyone else know of any others or have any advice on which is the best? A plus would be for an external storage device that I would be able to access my movies through my apple to tv? Please help been looking for almost a year and cant make up my mind on what product to buy for what I am trying to do and create my own personal cloud storage.

SM66 wrote:
Or, I might have to do the old technique of using the Pen Tool in Illustrator and tracing over the filligree.
That's probably what I would do. If you're not well-practiced in Illustrator, this will be a good exercise. Just place the image you have, lock it down (either the object, or you can put it on it's own layer and lock the layer) and start with the pen tool.
Everyone probably has their own method, but I like to start by placing all the points I think I'll need as corner points (click, but don't drag to make the point curved). I then pick the Direct Selection tool (white arrow) and then the Convert Anchor Point tool. If you click on a point, you can drag it to be curved, but if you hold the Command key (on Mac OS) it will temporarily switch to the Direct Selection tool, which will allow you to move the point if necessary. Others would just make curved points as they go, but this is how I like to do it.
For the pointy shapes on the end, you could probably make one then rotate a copy. For the curvy parts in the middle, you may be able to make one and scale copies, or use the blend tool. As you go, you can switch the visibility of the placed graphic on and off to see how your creation looks on it's own, and when compared to the original.

Going to buy Premeire 3, however, advice on type of camcorder to buy..mini DV vs. Hard drive

I want to buy a camcorder that I can edit videos with. I am new to this and mostly for family and small business promo videos. Should I get a Mini DV camera or one with hard drive (no tapes)? I thought I would ask some people here first since salesmen seem not to know much.
Thanks and any advice on what to look for would be great.

It should be noted that it probably won't matter, on the quality issue, if it's just a little inexpensive small camcorder. Either way, the quality will probably be limited by the sensor and lens more than the format.
That being said, often times these hard disk camcorders record in MPEG format, which while being editable on Premiere, it's a lot slower with more potential for quality lost by editing the video. The tapes, on the other hand, will use DV video format, which is each frame compressed separately, making the video easy for editing software.
I prefer DV any day, because DV is a good standard and you'll be able to play those tapes on any camera or device that can play DV tapes. Additionally, DV devices nearly always (never seen one that doesn't) have a FireWire port for both device control and transferring the video directly into your editor. To top it all off, DV tapes are small and while magnetic media won't last forever, you can store your tapes away for a long time and you don't have to waste gobs and gobs of hard drive space on your PC just to keep your raw footage in case you need it at some point.
However, if it's an HDV camcorder with a hard drive, then the video would be the same to edit either way and you can record far longer than a tape allows; a 120GB drive would store about the same amount of footage as 10 DV tapes. Unfortunately, you'll lose the ability to "emulate" a DV device like you can with most HDV tape-base cameras.
Hope that helps..

Can I boot from a SATA drive? What if it's RAID?

I'm planning on getting the MSI 875P Neo FIS2R 800FSB motherboard. I'm also planning on getting ONE SATA hard drive. Can I boot from the SATA drive? Do I HAVE to set up it as a RAID drive? Can you boot from RAID drives? RAID and SATA confuse me a little. Anyone care to help?

I'm using the MSI 865PE Neo2 board and I'm having this problem. It probably has an easy solution, but this is my first build, so I'm not sure exactly what to do.
MSI 865PE Neo 2 Mobo
2.4b P4
Seagate SATA 80GB HDD
Panasonic FDD
Lite-On DVDROM
It took me a little bit of experimenting, but I got the BIOS to recogonize the DVD & HDD. It seems every time I got it to recognize one, the other disappeared. Anyway, like I said, BIOS recognizes all 3 now.
I go to install XP and it says I need to install the drivers from a floppy (after I had previously hit F6). Well, where do I get the drivers? I have a CDROM that came with the mobo but I don't know where to find the drivers for the SATA controller on it. ???
Can someone help me by directing me to a download and/or the file names that I need to transfer to floppy for Win XP installation? I would appreciate it. Thanks.

I want to pgrade to an SSD drive in my Mid 2007 MacBook. What SATA hard drive can I install 2 or 3??

I want to pgrade to an SSD drive in my Mid 2007 MacBook. What SATA hard drive can I install 2 or 3?? That seems to be just about all I can find out there, so far. Are those drives compatable with this macine? thx

SATA II

What is the Highest Capacity SATA Drive for a REV A G5

What is the Highest Capacity SATA Drive for a REV A G5 (SP 1.8 with 8 RAM slots), it came with a 160, I know 250s work... will anything higher?
I am looking at this if nothing else, it seems to be a nice 250,
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Seagate/ST3250823AS/
but I am curious if I could go higher
Thanks
Patrick
(Rep points given)

Hitachi 400GB was trouble even on SeriTek controllers. Like the early 7K250, it was not a native SATA drive. Early SATA drives were often using Marvel or some other bridge on PATA drives. The T7K250 and 7K500, or Maxtor are fine. WD has some new drives, one model is optimized for RAID-only firmware.
Whatever happened to just plug in and go, anyway?

I want to buy a refurbished Macbook Pro solely to use 'protools 8' on-nothing else. I am being told there are only certain year Macbooks Pro that will run this programme. I know I need 8gb, can anyone give me advice on what to buy/look for?

I want to buy a refurbished 'Macbook Pro' solely to use 'protools 8' on-nothing else!.
I am being told there are only certain year Macbook Pro that will run this programme.
I know I need 8gb, can anyone give me advice on what to buy/look for please?

It appears to depend upon the version you will be using:
http://avid.force.com/pkb/articles/en_US/Compatibility/en352429
Based on what I can tell, you may have to go to the second hand market in order to get a MBP that will run a compatible OSX.
Ciao.

Advice on what SATA drives to buy

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