Alarm troubles

My alarm won't ring when the phone is charging -- any ideas? It does ring when it is not plugged in.
thanks!

Hiya.
Go to EXTRAS > CLOCK.
It's all in there.
Cheers!
-Bryan

Similar Messages

LV2010 DSC alarm troubles

I recently upgraded from LV2009/DSC2009 to LV2010/DSC2010. My development system code works fine in LV and also built into an exe. But on the "users" station my .exe doesn't work any more. Everything seems fine except for alarms. They are constantly in alarm. All 90 of them. They are boolean values that I have converted from INT values from the PLC. The outputs from the PLC via RSLinx OPC server are all 0's and appear OK. What is really strange (and probably significant) is that the value from "DSC_Read Alarms.vi" is 64. When it was working it was a value of 1 when in alarm and 0 when not in alarm.
PaulG.
"I enjoy talking to you. Your mind appeals to me. It resembles my own mind except that you happen to be insane." -- George Orwell

Another one of those "LabVIEW can fix itself if you give it enough time" issues. I was playing around with the DSM 2009 and 2010 and RsLinx Classic on the target machine and it started working. I really didn't "do" anything except look at tag values from the PLC. Strange. Disturbing.
PaulG.
"I enjoy talking to you. Your mind appeals to me. It resembles my own mind except that you happen to be insane." -- George Orwell

IPod nano alarm troubles

i dont remember where but i read that the nano has an alarm and sleep timer? but i just bought one and theres no info on how to do it or if it even has that feature lol. just something on ma mind

Hiya.
Go to EXTRAS > CLOCK.
It's all in there.
Cheers!
-Bryan

Can't get alarm to work on new ipod--never had trouble with old ipod

Greetings all,
I just got a new Classic 120GB and it is great but I can't get the alarm clock to work...when I set a time for the alarm clock, it doesn't seem to remember this time but it instead defaults to an hour later than the current actual time...I tried several times to reset the alarm for a minute or two in the future so I could test it and see if it made any sound...I have reset the ipod and the normal time and date display is correct. I also can't get the beep sound to work, although I can hear the clicking when you scroll through things and so the internal speaker is clearly working. I used my old Ipod Photo for years as my alarm clock and I never had a problem with it...anyone have any idea how to fix this? I have the most recent ipod software, am using an older 17" G4 powerbook running 10.4.11. is there something obvious I am overlooking?

update: I can get an alarm message (you have an alarm) and a choice to dismiss or "snooze" but the internal speaker is still not kicking in and obviously a silent alarm is not ideal in this instance. When I try to hear the "beep" under tones, it doesn't make any sound but bounces me back to "sounds"...I can hear the clicking when scrolling and so the speaker seems activated but is muted somehow for the alarm. My old Ipod had a nice little alarm sound and I was hoping to use my new Ipod as an alarm clock as well...not a life or death thing, but I can't figure this out and I have read everything I could find. Help!

Trouble with Alarm Clock app

anyone out there use the Alarm Clock app? it looks great its easy to set up but mine didn't go off this morning (good job i had a back up!)
it says to set the alarm and leave it running in the background i did this but nada - nothing
anyone else have this problem and did you find a solution please?
thanks!

Are you referring to the built in clock app that comes on the phone, or a 3rd party app from the app store? I've had mixed results with anything other than the inbuilt clock app when it comes to alarms.

Anyone having trouble with the snooze function for the alarm? ...after update.

I've been using my phone as an alarm clock lately and after the latest firmware update I can't get the snooze to work on the alarm. The alarm goes off like it should and I select "snooze" with the ring but the alarm never goes off again. I was almost late to work the first time it did it.
Just checking to see if anyone else has experienced this. I have to say, I am not impressed with the latest "update" at all and have spent WAY too much time trying to get things to work again. If it wasn't a company issued phone I would've dropped the service long ago (no service at my desk at work or at home).

Try going into settings, apps and then manage apps. At the top scroll over and make sure all is selected. Scroll down and find the alarm app and tap on it. If clear data is populated then tap on it. After that tap on force close...you will get a warning but just press ok. If clear data is grayed out at least try force stop. Set your alarm back up and see if that works.

Having trouble with voltage alarm in core center

I hadn't used this comp for about a year, just put it back together and added the kingston ram to it that a buddy gave to me. Just found Core Center online and installed it. The problem i'm having is that the alarm is going crazy. Don't have alot of experience overclocking, and i'm not actaually trying to at all. I've been having programs close and games freeze up because of overheating. This is what I see when I look at the core center.
on the left
1.39 v
Vcore
2.72-82 v (flashing red)
3.3V
4.97 v
+5v
11.84-90v
+12V
If I open the tab, the FBS says 200mhz and is flashing blue to black
doesn't look like i'm having any problems with cpu temp. 35 'C
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks

Quote from: kourosh on 19-November-08, 01:58:25
do you know how to enter into bios if so then click on default save and exit then see what happens, somehow it looks the voltage for memory has been set 2.7 or 2.8 volt which is too high it should be 1.8 or 2.5 volt
Yea its at 2.5 i beleive. I reset everything to default, and it has been since i put everything back together. Before i had core center installed it was crashing guild wars, and wow consistantly because of overheating. I'll unistall core center and get a monitering app instead.

Big trouble with Nokia X3-02 alarm snooze function

Hello Nokia programators,
I have any big problem with alarm snooze function in my new NOKIA X3 02 mobile.
Please read this situation:
On my old mobile Nokia Classic: I sleep, sleep. Is 5:30, alarm ring, ring. Whith
closed my eyes i touch to one big buttons on my locked mobile. Alarm paused,
and after 10 minutes ring, ring, ring. Is super, i do not oversleep.
In my NEW !!! Nokia X3 02: I sleep. Alarm ring. Whith closed my eyes touch to
display or any key. ALARM TOTAL OFF and i oversleep to my work. For snooze alarm
to 10 minutes i must open eyes, touch to one small button, write unlock key, send
unlock key and set snooze alarm on left corner my display. Oh my god !!!! This is
NEW mobile with NEW operation system for users ???? Please modify this function.
I must use my old NOKIA for this problem. X3 02 is fine mobile for users standard
mobile. This function is very bad and total degradate this mobile for me.
Please add users option for snooze touch to display or any keys to new firmware.
Very thanks

I've had the same problem ,and the only remedy (for me ) is to always set the date On 02/05/2011 and then set up the alarm on Am/pm setup
Only then the alarm works ,even on the next day i.e. 03/05/2011 the alarm doesn't work and show me message like "168 hours remaining" ,you always need to set it up to 02/05/2011 (Well i don't exactly know if that date will work for you ...but surely the soluution is to set it the a date it will work ...try many dates

If you were having trouble playing mp3s after the IOS5 update - TURN OFF ZONE ALARM!

UGH!!!
I finally found this suggestion after plowing through MANY pages and threads on here and all over the web. Someone suggested that ZoneAlarm and iTunes "clash" so I turned off my ZoneAlarm and now can FINALLY transfer mp3s to my phone without having them playback improperly. Before songs would start like 20 seconds in, then jump back to the beginning, then the middle again, despite the files being perfectly fine on my computer and also in the "music" section of iTunes (but would be faulty once transferred to my device).
This is a HUGE relief. I've been without music for over a week and it was complete ****. I had to use the Pandora app to get SOME kind of songs but compared to being able to listen to my own library, it was pretty much ****.... Just wanted to pass along this idea to anyone else who is struggling.
APPLE........ GET YOUR #(@#$U#@$#@$#@$#@$#@$#@()%R$)*%R$ TOGETHER. ***?
- New and fairly disappointed apple customer

This is very helpful! How do I create .m4v or .mp4 vidoes that "Fast start"? Just changing the extension doesn't work -- and exporting takes time. I'd love another fast solution like this for opening and "Save As" -- that results in the MPEG-4 extensions that my users are expecting. (Yes, QT is a container format, and yes this .mov has the same media H.264 media streams, but we'd like folks to be able to drag these into itunes or similar and get them quickly on iPods.)
Thanks!
matt

On Screen Keyboard Stopped Working in Alarm Mode [...

I have had a Nokia E51 for about 4 years - I used it till it literally stopped working. That phone started out great, but gave me A LOT of trouble and I started to hate it around month 6.
Fast forward a few years and I need to buy a new phone. I search around and find a phone that has OFFLINE GPS! Whoa! Also, great reviews! I am sold. Turns out it's another Nokia (C6-01).
I have had this thing for about 2.5 months now and I am getting really really paranoid considering my history with Nokia phones. They have always surprised me in a very negative way after initially seducing me. I want to love Nokia, but the phone's always prevent me.
Anyway, Last night I tried to set an alarm on my c6-01 and when I tried to alter the time by tapping the text field, THE ON SCREEN KEYBOARD DID NOT SHOW UP. f*ck. Basically, according to my phone, I could only wake up at 11:15 AM - despite having work at 8:00 AM.
I did do a recent software update a few weeks ago, but from what I remember, the keyboard worked after this update.
Anyone have any ideas? I am pretty sure I am still under warranty and if that's the case, I am just going to return it to Amazon and never touch another nokia.
Thanks
My phone Info:
Model: C6-01
Type: RM-601
Release: Nokia Belle Refresh
Software Version: 111.040.1511
Software Version date: 2012-07-28

@adrianhughes: Holy c.r.a.p Thanks man. That worked.
I was starting to sweat. Phew.
I really hope this phone won't give me any issues because I am tired of getting a divorce in the middle of a really happy relationship filled with great sex nokia phones giving me trouble.

Trouble shooting guide! Read this first!!!! rev 13-1-2004

(Revision 13-1-2004)
Hi there,
Follow everything on the list, even if it doesn't look like it would solve your problem, most problems are created somewhere else!
To give some examples:
CPU won't run FSB133....mostly powersupply or CPU-cooler.
Videocard won't load drivers....mostly powersupply.
Sound won't work.....mostly metal-standoff's.
Windows won't install, file read error.....mostly CPU-cooler, Bad-ram or powersupply.
That is why you need to go over the entire list and check all!
Before you start doing anything, remove the power and make sure that you have touched the metal case of your system. If you don't you could damage your system due to static discharge!
Thanks to Arioch and Dragon60 for comments on this.
There are several reasons why this happens.....to name the most commen:
CPU speeds
You have a Duron, that CPU is 100FSB!
You have a Athlon(XP) and it's showing the wrong speed, set the CPU-FSB to 133....
Or 166 when it's a FSB333 CPU....or 200 when it's a FSB400 CPU....
Some boards have a jumper to set it, other do it in the BIOS.
Check your manual for this.
Speeds must be:
Duron upto 1300MHz = 100MHz (=200DDR)
Duron from 1400MHz = 133MHz (=266DDR)
Athlon B type = 100MHz (=200DDR)
Athlon C type = 133MHz (=266DDR)
Athlon XP - C type = 133MHz (=266DDR)
Athlon XP - D type = 166MHz (=333DDR)
Athlon XP - E type = 200MHz (=400DDR)
Use this link to see if your motherboard actually supports your CPU.
The TBred CPU's (0.13) start from XP-1700 and up, but not all boards support this CPU and they either show on the D-LED all red or don't start at all!!
The K7T266pro2 is an exception, it can be made to support the TBred CPU's, on this link you find all the info on how to make it work.
Many reports have told us that FSB333 CPU's work on KT3-Ultra boards work just fine, but it's unsupported by MSI, we don't know why....
As for mulipliers with AMD CPU's, just set them Automatic, as they are hardcoded on the CPU themselves and will allway's be correctly, even if if you think the BIOS doesn't know it.
How to recognise the CPU:
If you look on the dice, there are letters after the speed.
The last letter will tell you the FSB of the CPU.
B=100MHz (=200DDR)
C=133MHz (=266DDR)
D=166MHz (=333DDR)
E=200MHz (=400DDR)
To recognise a CPU quickly, checkout this link.
Thanks Mellops.
The MHz setting must match your setting in the BIOS for FSB value, as it translates to the correct FSB setting for the CPU.
The best way to identify a processor is by using the OPN (Ordering Part Number) which can be found on the processor (E.g. AXDA 2700 D K V 3 D).
Detailed information on the code can be found in this AMD document. (Thanks Hans)
CPU Cooling
CPU cooler not made for your CPU, check if it can handle your CPU....
CPU cooler mounted wrong!, take it off and check it as it will fit 2 way's, but only 1 is the right one, examine very carefull!
The cooler has a lower part that needs to go over the bump (higher part) of the socket, if it's not over there it won't cool the entire dice and WILL give you trouble.
Also check if it's making contact with the entire dice of the CPU...
Make sure you regrease it again, the same grease/paste can't be used twice!
YOU MAY NEVER USE A THERMALPAD OR GREASE AGAIN! APPLY NEW EVERY TIME YOU TAKE THE COOLER OFF!!
top 2 show how not to do it
Used too much silver-grease! It will shorten the bridges on the CPU, clean it and use white-paste.
(Silver-paste is not recommended in any case!)
The latest AMD XP CPU's (XP-2200 and above) require a copperbased heatsink because the dice is smaller and generates far more heat per square cm then the "old" CPU's do.
How to check the cooler before taking it off.
There is a simple way to check the cooler without taking it off.
You do this by first checking your idle temp with PCAlert, it should be below 50-55C.
Then you download a client from www.distributed.net, let this client run for about 10 minutes while monitoring the temps, after about 1 minute or so it should stabilize and your temp should have gone up about 10-15C (max).
If it still goes up or the system crashes, there is a big chance you mounted the CPU-cooler wrong.
When you can't run this check, try with FSB100, if the system does run the check then, it could be well that the cooler is mounted wrong or your powersupply doesn't have enough power.
***** YOU CAN'T CHECK THE CPU COOLER ON TEMPS OR FAN RUNNING, IT MUST BE TAKEN OFF THE CPU!!! *****
Cleaning the CPU and Cooler - thanks to Dragon60 for his addition.
An additional comments about this is what you clean the CPU with in this situation. The best thing to use is isopropyl alcohol. If this is not available then metholated spirits would do.
Make sure you allow the CPU to dry properly before you put it back in. This also means DO NOT try and clean it whilst it is still in the socket as some of the cleaning fluid, grease and dirt may get underneath and short some pins.
Last but not least. DO NOT use acetone to clean anything inside your PC. (or outside for that matter) It MAY not do any damage BUT it may disolve some parts.
Thanks Dragon60.
If you don't understand what we are talking about on this cooler matter, then read this link: AMD CPU & Cooling guide
Powersupplies
Powersupply too little, most commen cheap 300W CPU's can't handle an XP-1700 or above, try a better one to be sure.
Make sure your powersupply has about 185W combined on the 3.3+5V and that the 3.3V has 20A or above.
That should be enough for most systems.
On the latest boards the 12V has become very important too, expecialy with TBred CPU's.
Make sure yours can give 18A or more on the 12V line too.
I have found that a lot of cheap 350W will fail with modern boards and TBred CPU's.
Allway's make sure you have a decend PSU, it never fails to spent a bit more on that part!
Borrow a bigger one from a friend if you are not sure....
More info about powersupplies: Click here.
And the second you must read: Click here.
Powersupplies with these type of numbers on them or higher should be fine:
3.3V - 28A or better
5V - 30A or better
12V - 18A or better
Watch out!! Cheap PSU's like Q-Tec come nowhere near these figures!!
Do NOT trust the 300W or 400W rating on them!!!
Q-Tec is about the worst of them all!!
Metalclips
Stand-off's left between the board and the case, take the board out and check for too many of those metal-clips, they can shorten circuits and cause al sorts of problems (most of the time audio problems)
RAM
Ram problems, don't try to run with PC100 (SDram boards) when you have a 133FSB CPU, get PC133 ram of decend quality.
In any case, don't use cheap quality ram (Crucial seems decend, but give's a lot of problems, I consider these cheap quality too :P ), replace the ram with another brand to see if it fixes it....
DDR ram speeds:
Duron upto 1300/Athlon-B =100FSB=PC-1600=DDR200
Duron from 1400 =133FSB=PC-2100=DDR266
Athlon-C/XP upto 2600 =133FSB=PC-2100=DDR266
Athlon XP D-type and above =166FSB=PC-2700=DDR333
Athlon XP E-type and above =200FSB=PC-3200=DDR400
Higher DDR speeds are only a must if you try to overclock, they have no speed gain if run at the correct speed. You may use faster ram on a slower system, the speeds given are what is needed minimum.
Perform RAM test tools, ie http://www.memtest.org if you suspect RAM is faulty, such as BSOD or data corruption. [added by Maesus]
Try your system allway's with 1 stick of ram, adding more sticks can give all the trouble too.
Some sticks just won't work in pair and a lot fail when you put 3 or more in the system.
When you want to use 3 sticks, make very sure you use the MSI tested ones, they are your best chance that they work without problems.
If still nothing, try to seat the ram in another slot, sometimes they work better in another slot.
Thanks boost
Or rise the Ram voltage a little, be carefull doing this!
Sometimes this works when you have a lot of ram in there.
BIOS
BIOS settings not right, clear the CMos and start with the default settings, if it works, try setting ONLY the FSB to 133 if needed, nothing more.....
And go further from there......
Clearing CMos
When you clear the CMos, make sure that all power is cut from the system.
This is done by takeing the wall-plug out or use the switch on the powersupply to turn it off.
On most boards, as far as I know all MSI boards, you must set the JBat1 to position 2-3 (clear position) for about 10 seconds, then set it back to 1-2 (keep data position)
After this your CMos should be cleared and you can turn the system back on.
In some rare cases it's needed to take the battery out too for a minute or so.
It can happen that the system will prompt you to set the BIOS again, go into the BIOS and set everything you need, then save the settings.
Thanks fguevara.
Harddisks
Harddisk is giving problems, most of the time with WD drive's, they are jumpered somewhat strange compared to others:
No jumper = Stand-Alone no other drive attached to the cable.
Jumper master = if you have a slave drive attached
Jumper slave = when it's slave to another drive
Harddisk is doing weird things:
Make sure you have connected the blue connector to the board, and don't let the other end of the cable unused, make sure there is a device connected to it.
The middle connector can be left into the air without problems if not needed.
IBM harddisks seem to fail a lot, try Drive-Fitness-Test on it, see if it has problems.
Click here for DFT
Other brand drives can have problems too, make sure they are ok, as harddisk failure can cause all sorts of problems.
Allway's be sure your harddisk is in tip-top shape, if not, replace it and try another to verify.
For more information read this: Click here.
To know what harddisks your motherboard support, use this link.
To enable harddisk over 137GB in Win2000 edit this registry key:
[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Atapi\Parameters]
"EnableBigLba"=dword:00000001
The KT4 raid boards only support 1 harddisk on IDE3, the rest must be SATA drive's!!
Harddisk/power led not functioning - thanks to Tweetyoost
If your HD led or power led not work try to switch(wrong + or - side) the connectors on the motherboard.
leds will work only when + or - is correct
Thanks Tweetyoost.
Floppy drive's
If your floppy drive doesn't work or the led stay's on all the time.
Make sure the floppy is set correctly in the BIOS, as the BIOS doesn't autodetect a floppy drive.
Check the cable, make sure the twist in the cable is at the floppy-drive side.
If the light stay's on, flip the connector at the floppy-drive arround.
Sometimes it happens that even after all this, they still don't work, try with another drive from another brand.
Not able to enter the BIOS or lockup
When you try to enter the BIOS it won't go in there or
lockup, but your system is running fine.
This symtom can happen when your CPU-Cooler is giving spikes on the coolerwire.
Try with another brand of cooler to test if it solves it.
Keyboard and optical mouse lights stay on after power off[/U]
Some motherboards have a jumper called JKBV1, this jumper is located (mostly) near the keyboard connector, put it in the other position.
If your board doesn't have the jumper, try to find the following BIOS settings and turn them off:
resume on KBC
resume on PS/2
resume by alarm
USB ports not working[/U]
Check in the BIOS if the ports are enabled.
USB2.0 ports are supported in Win2000+SP3 and XP+SP1, just let the OS reinstall the ports and they should work.
Thanks Stygge
Replacing parts and the system won't boot after
It's never a good idea to replace stuff like CPU and ram without taking the board out of the case.
But if you still like to do so, please support the board, because if you don't you might bent the board a little and cause other components to make bad contact.
Allways support the board when you replace stuff, no matter what!
Also make sure your system can take the replacement, it could happen for example that your powersupply can't handle your changed videocard from GF2MX to GF4Ti4600.
Test all the parts in another system
Make sure that the new part is in good working order in the first place (in particular: videocard, CPU, memory): try it in another system, or have it demonstrated by the one you bought it from if possible.
Testing might also give you a clue on what is actually wrong in your own system.
Thanks HansH.
Checking the powersupply
Don't do this if you don't know what you are doing!
Disconnect the powersupply.
Orientate the 20pin Powerconnector with the clip up.
Locate pin 4 and pin 8 top row, mostly green and black wire.
Use a wire to short them (or better a 12V test lamp).
Now connect the power and the fan inside the powersupply should start spinning.
If it doesn't your powersupply maybe dead.
Thanks HansH.
KT4 users
Please read the Un-Official KT4 guide if you have CRC errors or strange crashes.
These can be BIOS problems.
In any case !!!Only flash if the system is stable!!!
Set default-settings and FSB100 to make it stable first!!!
Motherboards making a Siren-sound
If your board is making the sound of a firetruck, BEEP-BOOP-BEEP-BOOP...
Check the folowing:
1. CPU too hot
2. chassis intrusion was enabled in the BIOS
3. PSU is below min/max allowable value
Stutter in audio
Remove your antivirus software.
We have heard a few cases where the stuttering was created by badly behaving antivirus software.
Disable cpu halt command if it's in the BIOS (Thanks Pascal16)
Windows
Windows2000/XP won't run stable, try to disable APIC and install again....
Not all drivers/devices like the APIC.
Windows2000/XP won't install USB2.0, install the latest servicepak (SP3 Win2000 or SP1 WinXP).
Let Windows rediscover the USB ports, they should work now.
If you have driver or other problems and don't know what to do anymore but Windows does function without crashing, read this: Click here.
Audio [added by Maesus, 20/2/2003]
Can't stream AC3 via SPDIF to external DD decoder? try this ac3filter [info provided by Manfred ]
Lan not working 100MBit
You could try this patch, seems to work on some boards.
The download-link is at the bottom of this post.
I think I have about covered all most commen problems....
Check those first before you ask us, as it's not fun to type the same over and over again.... :(
Another good link for trouble shooting is here: Link
If you have more issues that can solve problems, please write your thing below......
I will insert your comments in this guide, with credits, offcourse 8)
!!I will delete any attempt for discussion or problem report below this message.....!!
Please report back, in another thread, if your problem was solved and how you did it, this will help others a great deal.
It's only ment to help people as a guide to where the problem can be, start a new thread if this guide didn't solve your problem and you need more help!
This thread is only for the experts to guide you into a solution :]

Dude thank-you for your wonder detailed knowldge, I have descovered that lets say xp 1700 in a ultra 2 can only handle at the most 143fsb mult at 12.
Given the settings" irq's are a major",part of directing traffic and power? example:
Sound blaster Live , uses two irq's most common at"Auto" is, irq 10, or 5, and Sound blaster 16 emulation usually takes irq 5,. I have found that the sound card in slot3 works great , but to do this I had to change the Bio's and assign slot 3 irq 7 . and make sure printer port has share irq enabled
Problems that accure with bad traffic are like this. Start a dedicated server. minimize than start your game?":censored: no sound what could be wrong"? Shoot another problem Connection problem?. The computer nerd is getting trouble over the ordeal. ANSWER! IRQ can fix the problem, Study the irq and make changes as you go. "what would it be like with no stop signs,,,that is the same as a irq. with the same knowldge this topic brings IRQ need to be clearly understood.
I can honestly say my system is error free and running like a dream.
xp 2500 barton 333
creative sound 5.1gamers.
512 mb kingston ram 400 mhz
boadband either onboard.
MSI 5700 128 mb ddr
Setting are:
163 fsb
mult of 11
ddr 333
video memory clock down to 450mhz
3d clock to 390mhz
The delta is a smooth running board also I want to mention to the person with crackling sounds, change the irq like I did, that fix the problem and the power is totaly too good to be true.

Trouble setting up wireless cameras with airport extreme

I am trying to set up my alarm dot com wireless cameras and am having trouble getting them to connect to my Airport Extreme. With my prior D-Link router, there was no issue, but since upgrading to the Extreme, I can get them to locate the network, but not connect.

Add me to the list of people with Netgear DM111P ADSL modem and AEBS(n)...I can connect fine to the internet directly from MB Pro to modem, and for the last couple months have used the Netgear with my trusty AEX, no problem.
Now I finally get my AEBS from Canada (here in Dubai, UAE) and I have wasted hours trying to get on the internet with the AEBS. I have it configured exactly the same as the AEX is! One works fine, the other not at all. Exasperating.
I am using the Netgear with PPPoA Bridging (the correct setting for the ISP here and what works with the AEX and direct connection). The AEBS shows it is getting the IP correctly and has a solid green light. My MB Pro shows it is getting an IP from the AEBS's DHCP server. And shows entries for the DNS servers.
Yet..no internet. From the number of complaints with this exact same setup...it ain't me...I have used and configured over a dozen routers and modems from all major manufacturers, used DSL/ADSL/cable, PPPoe, PPPoA, etc etc...and I'm stumped.
This is NOT a typical Mac product. I am not happy. If someone figures this out, you will have my admiration.

DSC 8.6.1 doesn't log alarms

My alarms are not being logged in DSC 8.6.1.
I can tell that the alarms are being properly generated when I monitor them in the Distributed System Manger. In keeping with previous posts, I know that the MSSQL server is running in the taskbar. I've also tried changing the permissions for NETWORK SERVICE in the citadel directory.
When I try to monitor alarms in LV, it returns error code 1967386611: HIST_RunAlarmQueryCORE.vi, Citadel: (Hex 0x8ABC100D) The given Citadel database is not currently configured to log alarms to a relational database.
I also notice that the time stamp on all of the citadel files is not being updated with each alarm, so it really seems like the alarms not being logged.
I have alarm logging enabled in all the appropriate places (at the variable, and in the library properties).
When I check the alarm log history in MAX, there is nothing there.
Thanks,
Charlie

Hello David,
I have the same Problem with LabVIEW and DSC8.5.1 and, yes, SQL-Server 2000 was installed before I tried to install DSC the first time.
But after I uninstalled the DSC, SQL-Server-Express 2005 and the old 2000-Version and reinstalled the complete DSC-Module it still didn't work. MAX doesn't display any error message but doesn't also show any data. ldf- and mdf-Files are not contained in the database folder.
Right after installation and first reboot I get an Error-Message: IN MSDE Security Setup Error „NI MSDE is not accessable or currently logged
user doesn't have sysadmin permissions“. I found a post for this issue, but the suggested solutions didn't work for me too ( http://forums.ni.com/ni/board/message?board.id=170&message.id=243298). And if I try to use the DSC's alarm-loging feature I end up with the Error:"...database is not currently configured to log alarms...".
The DSC and the application we developed work fine on two other
XP-Pro-PC's and I was surprised to get in trouble with installing it on
the customers PC.
The Windows XP Pro has been installed by our customer and I don't want to touch that installation. My user account has admin permissions. I have no clue how to fix this and I hope you have an idea what to try next.
Thanks in advance,
Thomas

How can I extend the calendar alarm sound on my iPhone?

Before I got my iPhone I used my mobile phones (dumb, android, Symbian) to set an alarm with the calendar. I'm having a hard time properly doing so on my iPhone. My brain is lined with teflon and I forget a lot of stuff - up until now my mobile phones have been vital in remedying this.
Say that I have an important appointment at 14:00 two weeks from now, I punch it in the calendar on my iPhone and let it alert me an hour before the event. When the time comes my iPhone lets out a measly "beep" that no one hears and I miss the appointment - I can go entire work days without looking at my phone (and phone usage is strongly discouraged at my workplace) so this is really a big problem for me. So far I've missed a couple of important meetings, left important stuff undone and forgot to pick my kid up from kindergarten (my wife usually does, but there are those rare, calendar reminder occasions when I have to)!
On all the other phones I've owned I'd be able to set the calendar alarm so that it would go on and on and on until I reacted, thus minimizing the odds of me missing the alarm. I have no idea how to make my iPhone do this.
Sure there are workarounds like making the calendar alarm go off a day before to remind me to create an actual alarm clock alarm for the day after but that really seems to be an uneccesary hazzle and a major design flaw - also, what if I'm really busy when the early reminder goes off and I forget to set the alarm? Or perhaps I should attempt to tame myself to constantly check my iPhone for possible alerts? I really love my iPhone, but if it becomes a handicap i'll throw it away in a heartbeat.

I was not aware of the fact one could use ringtones as alarms, this will suffice! Although I foresee some very awkward times as the sound does not stop once I respond to the reminder (it keeps going for good five - ten seconds after I "stop" the reminder), but it's better than missing it altogether!
Thank you very much!
Regarding the Alarmed app, doesn't it have to be running to actually remind you?
-Modular747: I don't know anyone who actually reads the terms of service agreement, those things are usually up to thirty, small print pages full of legal jargon. Rules, I do read - not the legal documents (also they often contradict the laws in my country, but that's a whole different story).
I agree with you - the average customer support consultant mostly cares about keeping his job and earning his salary (don't we all?) and thus racking up completted tasks (i.e. getting rid of customers as fast as possible - in a good mood). The "threat" none the less is real, if a cell phone causes me more trouble than it is worth, I will indeed throw it away (I have done so before) - and recommend a different brand to anyone willing to listen.
Don't get me wrong, I love Apple and I've been faithfully using and recommending their producs for twenty years now, not because of fanboyism, but because they earned it. This calendar issue, however, is like a toaster that doesn't automatically eject the toast at the set time. I see it as a major flaw and after googling around a bit I see that it's been around since at least 2007 (THAT'S SEVEN YEARS!!) so I strongly believe they are aware of this problem by now, but are choosing to ignore it for some mysterious reason and it really ****** me off.
I will send the feedback but based on my observations I suspect the Send button is merely a cleverly disguised Delete button.

ICal scripting an alarm

I have events in a calendar set up to email an alarm for when I need to service certain machines that are under a service agreement. Then the person will log the call using the system number that I have in notes from their email.
I am trying to eliminate the person and have the call automatically logged and print out.
AS can't get anything out from the notes so I thought I would put the system number in the location field so I could get it.
I need to write a script that will be triggered from an iCal alarm and then go and get the system number out of the location field for that event when it comes up.
but I am having trouble trying to get the current event in iCal.
I am not sure if I explained this very well but
I just need a way to get a number from the current event that triggered the alarm so I can add it to the rest of my script.
Thanks
darock

There is no current event in iCal. Austin Kinsella posted a work around in this thread.
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=1340164&#1340164

Alarm troubles

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