Am i supposed to let the battery go dead
am i supposed to let the battery go dead
Hi,
See this Apple Article on iPhone Battery:
http://www.apple.com/batteries/iphone.html
Plenty of good information there...
Cheers,
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My iPhone 4 froze when I was using the Facebook app. The only thing moving is the indicator at the top spinning to show its "thinking." Its been like this for about an hour, I can't even turn it off. Any ideas (other than letting the battery go dead)?
Thank you, I've tried that but it won't work either, the logo never comes up. It just stays on the FB app screen. I tried connecting to iTunes to see if I can fix something from there and it freezes iTunes. Also tried disconnecting the wifi (I don't know how I thought that would help but worth a try) and plugging it into the charger but still nothing. I think I'll have to visit the store tomorrow. I appreciate it, though!
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Hi, I have a macbook pro. I use it a lot for college and I was wondering, should I always plug my laptop to the charger or should I let the battery die before recharging my laptop? Is there a difference? The battery of my laptop is supposed to last how long?
Thank you alot!https://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html
https://discussions.apple.com/community/notebooks/macbook_pro?view=documents -
I had hacker problems so I reloaded Snow Leopard. Afterwards, Mac had to delete 798 items. Now it is looping on 4 items to delete for the past 2 weeks. I can't reboot, reload, or restart. I have to let the battery run down for it to turn off. I think a big part of the problem is that someon one the internet (the hacker) was mirroring my hard drive. It seems to have locked up my system. I could be wrong about this guess, though. All I do know is that it is now looping on the last 4 iems, and I can't do anything.
Well, I can get it to turn on, but all it does is continously try to delete the last 4 items. When I try to reload Snow Leopard, it tells me my hard drive is full and that I need to delete items.
Can anyone help? I am so lost without my Mac. I am back on the PC, and though it works, I'm sure many of you will understand when I say it's just not a Mac.
Thanks.I installed Snow Leopard using my Apple external Superdrive. I followed directions I found on the Apple site. Here is the article info: Mac OS X v10.6 Snow Leopard: How to Erase and Install
Article HT3910
located at: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3910
Everything was going smoothly until I got to the reinstall part. I had to choose to reinstall on a hard drive or network drive. I've never used a network drive; just the hard drive. It seems that's where the troubles began. I selected the hard drive. It seemed to go well, and then I got the message that I needed to delete some files because I was out of space. I chose to get rid of my music files, but, there were only 636. I don't know what the rest of the files were. I was using the Secure Empty Trash command.
That was my first time doing an erase and install. I tried to do it again, but I now get a continuous error telling me that my hard drive is full and I must delete files. Only I can't delete files because 4 files are still being deleted and my computer won't let me stop the process.
I found out about the hackers mostly by the fact that whenever I used to watch something like Hulu or Netflix, I never had problems with internet connection or speed. Lately, I had internet connection problems. I went in to check my settings for my internet provider and found out the settings had been changed to public and all these extra computers were connected to my network. -
my ipod touch is frozen... the screen has a picture of the itunes logo and a usb charger. I have held the sleep button and the power button to reset and i have let the battery die and started to recharge...niether worked. any ideas???
Try charing it to 50% at least.
If all else fails, try putting it in DFU mode. Connect it to iTunes, (iTunes may not detect the device, but that's ok) hold the power and home buttons down for 10 seconds, then release the power button but keep holding the home button until it goes into DFU mode. iTunes should detect it and ask for a restore.
~Lt. Leviathan -
My new macbook pro has gone black on me three days in a row. is this a chronic problem?
The only way to get it back is a hard reset or let the battery die and then plug in the charger. The brightness is up and the power stays on while screen is black.
This is the second macbook pro i have owned in the past two weeks. I am ready to return it for good if this is a chronic issue. Please help if you have had this same issue.Try a SMC reset:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964
Try a NVRAM/PRAM reset:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1379
If no joy, take it back, and take full advantage of your warranty!
You also may want to let Apple know about this as well:
http://www.apple.com/feedback//
I wish you the best -
Does Apple want you to let the battery get low once a month or completely drained to zero%?
Does Apple want you to let the battery get low once a month or completely drained to zero%?
Of course, if you use the device it is likely that you will have charge cycles in any event.
On devices with percent charge indicators (iPad, iPhone) I believe that Apple recommends a charge cycle once a month to keep the percent indicator accurate. -
HT1726 is it ok to let the battery go completely dead, over and over again
is it ok to let the battery go completely dead, over and over again
- How long does a full charge last and what is the iPod doing during that time?
- Make an appointment at the Genius Bar of an Apple store.
Apple Retail Store - Genius Bar -
I have an IPad2. I've received two different ideas on charging the battery. One person indicates I should let the battery run almost down before recharging; another person indicated I should keep it charged closer to 100% . What is the best process for the best battery life over time?
I do exactly as Thomas Reed does. Always have from day one. Going on 15 months now and I get at least 10 hours of use out the battery every day. No matter how much juice is left on the device when I go to bed - I put the iPad on the charger - doesn't matter what the battery gauge says - I plug it in and let it charge all night.
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Should I let the battery run down before charging my iPad or iPhone or iPod Nano to help the battery last longer? I took a class at Verizon and they said let it drain completely and it would last longer. Thanks
The quickest way (and really the only way) to charge your iPad is with the included 10W USB Power Adapter. iPad will also charge, although more slowly, when attached to a computer with a high-power USB port (many recent Mac computers) or with an iPhone Power Adapter (5W). When attached to a computer via a standard USB port (most PCs or older Mac computers) iPad will charge very slowly (but iPad indicates not charging). Make sure your computer is on while charging iPad via USB. If iPad is connected to a computer that’s turned off or is in sleep or standby mode, the iPad battery will continue to drain.
Apple recommends that once a month you let the iPad fully discharge & then recharge to 100%.
How to Calibrate Your Mac, iPhone, or iPad Battery
http://www.macblend.com/how-to-calibrate-your-mac-iphone-or-ipad-battery/
At this link http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/galaxy-tab-android-tablet,3014-11.html , tests show that the iPad 2 battery (25 watt-hours) will charge to 90% in 3 hours 1 minute. It will charge to 100% in 4 hours 2 minutes. The new iPad has a larger capacity battery (42 watt-hours), so using the 10W charger will obviously take longer. If you are using your iPad while charging, it will take even longer. It's best to turn your new iPad OFF and charge over night. Also look at The iPad's charging challenge explained http://www.macworld.com/article/1150356/ipadcharging.html
Also, if you have a 3rd generation iPad, look at
Apple: iPad Battery Nothing to Get Charged Up About
http://allthingsd.com/20120327/apple-ipad-battery-nothing-to-get-charged-up-abou t/
Apple Explains New iPad's Continued Charging Beyond 100% Battery Level
http://www.macrumors.com/2012/03/27/apple-explains-new-ipads-continued-charging- beyond-100-battery-level/
New iPad Takes Much Longer to Charge Than iPad 2
http://www.iphonehacks.com/2012/03/new-ipad-takes-much-longer-to-charge-than-ipa d-2.html
Apple Batteries - iPad http://www.apple.com/batteries/ipad.html
Extend iPad Battery Life (Look at pjl123 comment)
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/3921324?tstart=30
New iPad Slow to Recharge, Barely Charges During Use
http://www.pcworld.com/article/252326/new_ipad_slow_to_recharge_barely_charges_d uring_use.html
Tips About Charging for New iPad 3
http://goodscool-electronics.blogspot.com/2012/04/tips-about-charging-for-new-ip ad-3.html
Prolong battery lifespan for iPad / iPad 2 / iPad 3: charging tips
http://thehowto.wikidot.com/prolong-battery-lifespan-for-ipad
In rare instances when using the Camera Connection Kit, you may notice that iPad does not charge after using the Camera Connection Kit. Disconnecting and reconnecting the iPad from the charger will resolve this issue.
Cheers, Tom -
Is it good to let the battery run down totally?
I know, with certain electronic items, it's recommended to periodically let the battery discharge completely in order to maximize battery life. Does anyone know if that's the case with the iPad battery?
Thanks.You are quite welcome.
This tells you want you want to know about your user ID for this site.
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/1500907?threadID=1500907&tstart=2082 -
My iPhone says connect to iTunes but i synced it to a different computer and my lock/sleep button is broken so i cant turn it off. I tried letting the battery die so I could try out the iPhone recovery method however it didn t work that way either. Any h
The only way out of Recovery mode is to connect to iTunes and restore. If you cannot access the computer you normally sync with, you will lose all of your content, unless you sync to iCloud. With no backup present, your content will be lost.
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I have just got my iPad2 and am very pleased with it. I have a question regarding the monthly (recommended) battery full charge. Should I let the battery completely die down to nothing at all before I plug in to recharge or would this complete drain be bad for my iPad?
It's not bad for it - on this page www.apple.com/batteries/ipad.html it says :
For proper reporting of the battery’s state of charge, be sure to go through at least one charge cycle per month (charging the battery to 100% and then completely running it down). -
Whats better for my mbp 2013 retina in the long run? Keep it plugged in as much as possible or letting the battery hit 10% and then recharge it?
Odd you ask that, since both are HORRIBLE, ... especially often draining your battery low.
General consideration of your MacBook battery
Contrary to popular myths about notebook batteries, there is protection circuitry in your Macbook and therefore you cannot ‘overcharge’ your notebook when plugged in and already fully charged.
However if you do not plan on using your notebook for several hours, turn it off (plugged in or otherwise), since you do not want your Macbook ‘both always plugged in and in sleep mode’.
A lot of battery experts call the use of Lithium-Ion cells the "80% Rule", meaning use 80% of the full charge or so, then recharge them for longer overall life. The only quantified damage done in the use of Lithium Ion batteries are instances where the internal notebook battery is “often drained very low”, this is bad general use of your notebook battery.
A person who has, for example, 300 charge cycles on their battery and is recharging at say 40% remaining of a 100% charge has a better battery condition state than, say, another person who has 300 charge cycles on their battery and is recharging at say 10-15% remaining on a 100% charge. DoD (depth of discharge) is much more important on the wear and tear on your Macbook’s battery than the count of charge cycles. There is no set “mile” or wear from a charge cycle in specific. Frequent high depth of discharge rates (draining the battery very low) on a Lithium battery will hasten the lowering of maximum battery capacity.
All batteries in any device are a consumable meant to be replaced eventually after much time, even under perfect use conditions.
If the massive amount of data that exists on lithium batteries were to be condensed into a simplex, helpful, and memorable bit of information it would be:
1. While realistically a bit impractical during normal everyday use, a lithium battery's longevity and its chemistry's health is most happy swinging back and forth between 20% and 85% charge roughly.
2. Do not purposefully drain your battery very low (10% and less), and do not keep them charged often or always high (100%).
3. Lithium batteries do not like the following:
A: Deep discharges, as meaning roughly 10% or less on a frequent basis.
B: Rapid discharges as referring to energy intensive gaming on battery on a frequent basis (in which case while gaming, if possible, do same on power rather than battery). This is a minor consideration.
C: Constant inflation, as meaning always or most often on charge, and certainly not both in sleep mode and on charge always or often.
From Apple on batteries:
http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1446
"Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time."
Keep it plugged in when near a socket so you keep the charging cycles down on your LiPo (lithium polymer) cells / battery, but not plugged in all the time. When not being used for several hours, turn it off.
DoD (depth of discharge) is far more important on the wear and tear on your Macbook battery than any mere charge cycle count. *There is no set “mile” or wear from a charge cycle in general OR in specific. As such, contrary to popular conception, counting cycles is not conclusive whatsoever, rather the amount of deep DoD on an averaged scale of its use and charging conditions.
(as a very rough analogy would be 20,000 hard miles put on a car vs. 80,000 good miles being something similar)
*Contrary to some myths out there, there is protection circuitry in your Macbook and therefore you cannot overcharge it when plugged in and already fully charged
*However if you don’t plan on using it for a few hours, turn it OFF (plugged in or otherwise) ..*You don’t want your Macbook both always plugged in AND in sleep mode (When portable devices are charging and in the on or sleep position, the current that is drawn through the device is called the parasitic load and will alter the dynamics of charge cycle. Battery manufacturers advise against parasitic loading because it induces mini-cycles.)
Keeping batteries connected to a charger ensures that periodic "top-ups" do very minor but continuous damage to individual cells, hence Apples recommendation above: “Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time”, …this is because “Li-ion degrades fastest at high state-of-charge”.
This is also the same reason new Apple notebooks are packaged with 50% charges and not 100%.
Contrary to what some might say, Lithium batteries have an "ideal" break in period. First ten cycles or so, don't discharge down past 40% of the battery's capacity. Same way you don’t take a new car out and speed and rev the engine hard first 100 or so miles.
Proper treatment is still important. Just because LiPo batteries don’t need conditioning in general, does NOT mean they dont have an ideal use / recharge environment. Anything can be abused even if it doesn’t need conditioning.
Storing your MacBook
If you are going to store your MacBook away for an extended period of time, keep it in a cool location (room temperature roughly 22° C or about 72° F). Make certain you have at least a 50% charge on the internal battery of your Macbook if you plan on storing it away for a few months; recharge your battery to 50% or so every six months roughly if being stored away. If you live in a humid environment, keep your Macbook stored in its zippered case to prevent infiltration of humidity on the internals of your Macbook which could lead to corrosion.
Considerations:
Your battery is subject to chemical aging even if not in use. A Lithium battery is aging as soon as its made, regardless.
In a perfect (although impractical) situation, your lithium battery is best idealized swinging back and forth between 20 and 85% SOC (state of charge) roughly.
Further still how you discharge the battery is far more important than how it is either charged or stored short term, and more important long term that cycle counts.
Ultimately counting charge cycles is of little importance. Abuse in discharging (foremost), charging, and storing the battery and how it affects battery chemistry is important and not the ‘odometer’ reading, or cycle counts on the battery.
Everything boils down to battery chemistry long term, and not an arbitrary number, or cycle count.
Keep your macbook plugged in when near a socket since in the near end of long-term life, this is beneficial to the battery.
In a lithium battery, deep discharges alter the chemistry of the anode to take up lithium ions and slowly damages the batteries capacity for the cathode to transport lithium ions to the anode when charging, thereby reducing max charge levels in mAh. In short, radical swings of power to lithium cells disrupts the chemical ecosystem of the battery to hold charges correctly which likewise impedes the perfect transfer of lithium ions both in charging and discharging. In charging your lithium battery, lithium ions are “pushed uphill” (hard) to the anode, and discharged “downhill” (easy) to the cathode when on battery power. Deep discharges, damages this “upward” electrolyte chemistry for the battery to maintain a healthy charge and discharge balance relative to its age and cycles.
Optimally, in terms of a healthy lithium battery and its condition, it is most happy at 50% between extremes, which is why low-power-drain processors such as the Haswell are ideal on lithium battery health since a partially charged battery with a low-drain processor has, in general, much more usage in hours
Battery calibration, battery memory, battery overcharging, battery training, …all these concepts are mostly holdovers from much older battery technology, and on older Apple portable Macbooks ranging from early nicads, NiMh and otherwise; and these practices do not apply to your lithium battery and its smart controllers.
Calibrating the battery on older Apple portable Macbooks with removable batteries.
http://support.apple.com/kb/PH14087
There is no calibration of current Apple portable Macbooks with built-in batteries.
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1490
There is no battery calibration with current Apple portable Macbooks with built-in batteries. Lithium batteries have essentially a 0-‘memory’, and all such calibration involve the estimations fed to the system controller on the SOC (state of charge) of the battery over long periods of time as the battery degrades. The software based battery controller knows the battery's characteristics, or SOC and adjusts itself. This is why there is both no need and purpose to periodically deeply drain your macbook battery, since it doesn’t affect the characteristics of the battery, and further still deep discharges are something you should not do on purpose to any lithium battery.
From BASF: How Lithium Batteries work
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2PjyJhe7Q1g
Peace -
just got a replacement iPhone 4s and i let the battery run down all the way before charging it and now that i have put it on the charger it won't turn back on or show any signs that it is charging. its just a black screen. how do i fix it
Keep iPhone on wall charger for ten minutes, it may turn ON itself. If still nothing, keep on charger and Reset, hold both home and power buttons for about 20 seconds until the iPhone begins to respond.
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