Angry Birds slowing down sometimes

Sometimes when I played Angry Birds my N8 hanged or slowed. Has any1 else experience this?

I noticed it happened when Ovi Sync is syncing automatically. Not really a big deal since I have finished all levels. May be this can be improved in the future.

Similar Messages

My internet is slowing down - sometimes the whole computer does too......

Hi,
Is any one able to give me some advice with this?
My iMac is now about 18 months old. Over the past 4-6 months it has gradually got slower. I have noticed this mainly on the internet. Some days it takes about 3-4 minutes to load one page or can't even open it at all. It used to be fine (i.e. opened a page in a second or two) and there is the odd occasion where this is still the case.
A few facts about the comp;
Memory capacity 232.57gb
Used 62.69gb - I am confident that it is not due to lack of space on my iMac!
On the activity monitor it shows 2.73KB per second - no idea what this means
I have completed the Apple Hardware Test - came back fine
I have completed Repair Disk Permissions - didn't change a thing
I haved deleted all Caches, Log files and Temporary Items.
I have downloaded OnyX - my iMac will not allow me to open the programme though.
I do not use this iMac for much - dont download much, dont use many programmes - only internet and email really!
I have contacted my broadband provider who have confirmed I am signed up to receive 5mb and I get the full five. They have said I have a good connection as far as they are concerned. I have run a broadband speed test - download speed - 4152kbps - upload speed- 497 kbps
I connect to the internet wirelessly and the airport icon on my screen suggests full strength.
I have now run out of ideas as to how I can speed up my beloved computer again.
I'd be really grateful if anyone could suggest any further things I could do to fix this problem.
Please!!

I would assume based on your usage and problems that the issue is specifically isolated to your internet performance. If you almost exclusively use this machine for internet/email, then we're probably talking an internet throughput issue. And probably the issue is something with the wireless configuration.
If you can post more information about your configuration, that would be helpful. Who is your ISP? Are they providing a modem that has wireless built in, or do you have a wired connection to another wireless router? What brand of router are you using? Also, what brand of modem(if they are different)? Finally, what version of OS X are you using and are your Software Updates up to date?
Is there a way you could connect your computer via Ethernet directly to your ISP box to test your performance that way?
Finally, do you have any cordless phones, microwaves, or anything using the 2.4 or 5 GHz radio band nearby? Something like items above might be causing intermittent interference.

My Hp Envy Dv6 7214Tx Slow downs few time.

Hello
My Envy Dv6 notebook slow down sometimes. I am using windows 8. It happens a very few times. Without any reason. When i open task manager to see what is using the resoursces. Surprisingly. non of the thing is using resoruces. but the computer processing becomes very slow.
Is it a hardware problem?
Thanks
Farooq
This question was solved.
View Solution.

Try the second link
Resolving slow system performance (Windows 7)
Resolving slow system performance (Windows 8)
I am a Volunteer to help others on here-not a HP employee.
Replies aren't online 24/7 because of Time Zone differences.
Remember in this Day and Age of Computing the Internet is Knowledge at your fingertips if you choose understand it. -2015-

Connection drops/slows down on new Macbook Pro but works perfectly on older

Hello,
I have 3 Macbook Pro's and one AirPort Extreme (bought dec 2008), *all has been working flawlessly* for a year until about two-three weeks ago.
*This is what happens:*
_Old Macbook Pro (2007)_ - *Works perfectly 100% of the time*, always at least 20mbit/s connection
_New Macbook Pro 15" (2009)_ - *Drops/slows down*, sometimes fast 20mbit/s sometimes slow 0.01mbit/s
_New Macbook Pro 13" (2009)_ - *Drops/slows down*, sometimes fast 20mbit/s sometimes slow 0.01mbit/s
_iPhones (2G/3G/3GS)_ - *All Work perfectly 100% of the time*
*I have reset the Airport Extreme 20 times* and tried the latest firmware 7.4.2 without luck. I have *even downgraded* to several other types of firmware. But problems still remain. This is doing my head in since I cannot any longer use the Airport Extreme with the newer MBP's.
So, only the new macs seem to have this problem. But the strange thing is that my older computer works 100% all the time!!!
_*Has my Airport Extreme broken or is anyone else having this problem?*_

I seem to have found a temporary solution. If I change the DHCP address series from 10.0.1.X to 192.168.0.X it works for about a week. Then it starts to drop/slow down again. So I use airport utility to again change it back to 10.0.1.X and it works for another week.. And on it goes.. This is so strange I can hardly believe it.

Angry Birds increasingly slow on iPhone 3G

Angry Birds is getting increasingly slower as it's played on my wife's iPhone 3G. It was getting bad (on 3.1.3), then upgraded to 4.1, no better/not change at all really. It runs fine on a 2 gen iPod Touch, but it's only on the first stage.
Is there any cache or anything to clear? I can't find anything on the web or the Rovio site.

I have the same problem.
I'm playing the last few levels of Angry Birds and the game play has slowed down considerably. The entire interface is slow. Swiping between levels is slow, starting a level is slow, and usually the screen doesn't respond at all when I throw the first bird and then it stutters as the bird flies through the air.
Other problems I've had:
- the sounds doesn't always work. Sometimes it works and other times it turns off suddenly in the middle of a level
- sometimes a level will "crash" and the screen will go black, but the sound can still be heard and the pause button "(||)" at the top left is still visible
The game didn't have any of these problems when I first bought it, so I'm convinced it has to do with the amount of saved data in the game.

Sometimes I get a message on the task bar at the bottom of the screen saying Firefox is using too much memory and the browser slows down terribly. What do I need to do?

This has been happening for several months now.
I use AVG anti-virus and it runs both updates and scans regularly. I do find that if I do an extra full scan it improves the situation for perhaps half a day.
Sometimes the fault slows down the browser so much that it times out and I have to click the retry button.
It seems to happen with most sites that I visit, I have been unable to identify any particular one as being worse than the others

If you want to reduce memory(60%) '''when firefox minimize[only in windows os] '''there is an easy old good trick:
type in the address bar '''about:config'''
then press the button '''i'll be careful i promise'''
then '''right-click''' anywhere in the list of preferences and choose '''new''' > '''boolean'''
then type in the open window '''config.trim_on_minimize'''
then click''' OK''', and in the next window select '''TRUE''' and click '''OK'''.
exit firefox and restart-it.
'''works only in windows os'''
see for more info :
[http://kb.mozillazine.org/About:config About:config]
[http://kb.mozillazine.org/Config.trim_on_minimize Config.trim on minimize]
thank you
Please mark "Solved" the answer that really solve the problem, to help others with a similar problem.

My newest iMac from a year ago is showing signs of slowing down its processing capability. Notice it especially in Aperture where I get the whirling dervish thing sometimes for a minute or more and once it crashed. Is there a way to "clean up the system"?

My newest iMac from a year ago is getting very sluggish. I notice it particularly in Aperture. I get the whirling dervish thing going on an operation sometimes for many seconds, even a minute or more and once it just crashed and I had to restart with the button. So I'm wondering if there is some way to "clean up the system" that is built into the iMac or if there is a reliable app I can obtain that will clean things up. I'm supposed to have a super fast processor in this version of iMac and lots of hard drive space and RAM. What gives? Any suggestions?

Things You Can Do To Resolve Slow Downs
If your computer seems to be running slower here are some things you can do:
Start with visits to:     OS X Maintenance - MacAttorney;
                                  The X Lab: The X-FAQs;
                                  The Safe Mac » Mac Performance Guide;
                                  The Safe Mac » The myth of the dirty Mac;
                                  Mac maintenance Quick Assist.
Boot into Safe Mode then repair your hard drive and permissions:
Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions Pre-Lion
Boot from your OS X Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the installer.
Repair the Hard Drive - Lion/Mountain Lion/Mavericks
Boot to the Recovery HD:
Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the COMMAND and R keys until the Utilites Menu screen appears. Alternatively, restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the OPTION key until the boot manager screen appears. Select the Recovery HD disk icon and click on the arrow button below.
When the recovery menu appears select Disk Utility. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported, then click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the main menu. Select Restart from the Apple menu.
Restart your computer normally and see if this has helped any. Next do some maintenance:
For situations Disk Utility cannot handle the best third-party utility is Disk Warrior; DW only fixes problems with the disk directory, but most disk problems are caused by directory corruption; Disk Warrior 4.x is now Intel Mac compatible.
Note: Alsoft ships DW on a bootable DVD that will startup Macs running Snow Leopard or earlier. It cannot start Macs that came with Lion or later pre-installed, however, DW will work on those models.
Suggestions for OS X Maintenance
OS X performs certain maintenance functions that are scheduled to occur on a daily, weekly, or monthly period. The maintenance scripts run in the early AM only if the computer is turned on 24/7 (no sleep.) If this isn't the case, then an excellent solution is to download and install a shareware utility such as Macaroni, JAW PseudoAnacron, or Anacron that will automate the maintenance activity regardless of whether the computer is turned off or asleep. Dependence upon third-party utilities to run the periodic maintenance scripts was significantly reduced since Tiger. These utilities have limited or no functionality with Snow Leopard or later and should not be installed.
OS X automatically defragments files less than 20 MBs in size, so unless you have a disk full of very large files there's little need for defragmenting the hard drive.
Helpful Links Regarding Malware Protection
An excellent link to read is Tom Reed's Mac Malware Guide.
Also, visit The XLab FAQs and read Detecting and avoiding malware and spyware.
See these Apple articles:
          Mac OS X Snow Leopard and malware detection
          OS X Lion- Protect your Mac from malware
          OS X Mountain Lion- Protect your Mac from malware
          About file quarantine in OS X
If you require anti-virus protection I recommend using VirusBarrier Express 1.1.6 or Dr.Web Light both from the App Store. They're both free, and since they're from the App Store, they won't destabilize the system. (Thank you to Thomas Reed for these recommendations.)
Troubleshooting Applications
I recommend downloading a utility such as TinkerTool System, OnyX, Mavericks Cache Cleaner, or Cocktail that you can use for removing old log files and archives, clearing caches, etc. Corrupted cache, log, or temporary files can cause application or OS X crashes as well as kernel panics.
If you have Snow Leopard or Leopard, then for similar repairs install the freeware utility Applejack. If you cannot start up in OS X, you may be able to start in single-user mode from which you can run Applejack to do a whole set of repair and maintenance routines from the command line. Note that AppleJack 1.5 is required for Leopard. AppleJack 1.6 is compatible with Snow Leopard. Applejack does not work with Lion and later.
Basic Backup
For some people Time Machine will be more than adequate. Time Machine is part of OS X. There are two components:
1. A Time Machine preferences panel as part of System Preferences;
2. A Time Machine application located in the Applications folder. It is
    used to manage backups and to restore backups. Time Machine
    requires a backup drive that is at least twice the capacity of the
    drive being backed up.
Alternatively, get an external drive at least equal in size to the internal hard drive and make (and maintain) a bootable clone/backup. You can make a bootable clone using the Restore option of Disk Utility. You can also make and maintain clones with good backup software. My personal recommendations are (order is not significant):
1. Carbon Copy Cloner
2. Get Backup
3. Deja Vu
4. SuperDuper!
5. Synk Pro
6. Tri-Backup
Visit The XLab FAQs and read the FAQ on backup and restore. Also read How to Back Up and Restore Your Files. For help with using Time Machine visit Pondini's Time Machine FAQ for help with all things Time Machine.
Referenced software can be found at MacUpdate.
Additional Hints
Be sure you have an adequate amount of RAM installed for the number of applications you run concurrently. Be sure you leave a minimum of 10% of the hard drive's capacity as free space.
Add more RAM. If your computer has less than 2 GBs of RAM and you are using OS X Leopard or later, then you can do with more RAM. Snow Leopard and Lion work much better with 4 GBs of RAM than their system minimums. The more concurrent applications you tend to use the more RAM you should have.
Always maintain at least 15 GBs or 10% of your hard drive's capacity as free space, whichever is greater. OS X is frequently accessing your hard drive, so providing adequate free space will keep things from slowing down.
Check for applications that may be hogging the CPU:
Pre-Mavericks
Open Activity Monitor in the Utilities folder. Select All Processes from the Processes dropdown menu. Click twice on the CPU% column header to display in descending order. If you find a process using a large amount of CPU time (>=70,) then select the process and click on the Quit icon in the toolbar. Click on the Force Quit button to kill the process. See if that helps. Be sure to note the name of the runaway process so you can track down the cause of the problem.
Mavericks and later
Open Activity Monitor in the Utilities folder. Select All Processes from the View menu. Click on the CPU tab in the toolbar. Click twice on the CPU% column header to display in descending order. If you find a process using a large amount of CPU time (>=70,) then select the process and click on the Quit icon in the toolbar. Click on the Force Quit button to kill the process. See if that helps. Be sure to note the name of the runaway process so you can track down the cause of the problem.
Often this problem occurs because of a corrupted cache or preferences file or an attempt to write to a corrupted log file.

Angry birds rio quit working on my ipad. When I try to start the game, it shuts down completely and goes to the main menu screen. This started when I downloaded the latest app. The other angry bird games still work. I really need help.

Angry birds rio quit working when I installed the latest app. I even uninstalled it and started over. When I try to start the game, it goes back to the main menu. I need help badly but in simplest of terms so I'll be able to follow.

Have you tried closing the app completely ? From the home screen (i.e. not with Angry Birds 'open' on-screen) double-click the home button to bring up the taskbar, then press and hold any of the apps on the taskbar for a couple of seconds or so until they start shaking, then press the '-' in the top left of the Angry Birds app to close it, and touch any part of the screen above the taskbar so as to stop the shaking and close the taskbar.
If that doesn't work then you could try a reset : press and hold both the sleep and home buttons for about 10 to 15 seconds (ignore the red slider), after which the Apple logo should appear - you won't lose any content, it's the iPad equivalent of a reboot.

I can not control my cursor with the trackpad. It moves randomly. It began after an Angry Birds update. Anyone else have this problem?

I have a late 2011 OS X Lion 10.7.4 that is only 6 months old. For the first 4 months I had no problems, but then about 6 weeks ago I downloaded an Angry Birds update from the Apple App Store, and my problems began. When playing Angry Birds the the new Angry Birds update for the first time the cursor began to jump around, moving on it's own as if someone else was controlling it. After a few moments I became obvious I could not control the cursor with the trackpad. When I placed the tip of my finger gently in the center of the trackpad to try to hold the cursor still it becan switching from the game (desktop) to launchpad and mission control. I then put the computer down so I was not even touching it, walked several feet away and the cursor still moved on it's own.
I've done a lot of research over the last few weeks on related articles and realized this is a common problem with numerous different causes: PRAM settings,
screen sharing, remote settings, having fingers accidently touch edges of trackpad, writst resting too close to trackpad, swollen battery, etc. and I don't think it's due to any of those issues.
The problem came out of nowhere. My computer stays at home, and is not used by anyone else. At first it was just Angry Birds, but now it can happen at any time. Sometimes hours or days go by when this does not happen, sometimes it happens so much I can't use the computer at all. It can get so bad that I won't be able to click out of whatever I'm doing on my desktop, and I'll have to shut it down by holding the power button.
Has anyone else had this issue after updating Angry Birds?

try a new/fresh apple brand cable and make sure it is the only usb cable in use. this worked for me, i noticed i had no problem with a lighting cable. i did a restore from scratch and from backup and it did not help me...and if you cant sync than you wont be able to get anything but apps back after the restore

I cannot seem to get rid of Angry Birds...never downloaded it.

I purchased a used macbook pro that has the app angry birds installed. I can't get rid of it, nor can I find the app anywhere. It constantly asks to update, and I do not even want this app.

The first thing to do with a second-hand computer is to erase the internal drive and install a clean copy of OS X. You — not the previous owner — must do that. How you do it depends on the model, and on whether you already own another Mac. If you're not sure of the model, enter the serial number on this page. Then find the model on this page to see what OS version was originally installed.
1. You don't own another Mac.
If the machine shipped with OS X 10.4 or 10.5, you need a boxed and shrink-wrapped retail Snow Leopard (OS X 10.6) installation disc from the Apple Store or a reputable reseller — not from eBay or anything of the kind. If the machine has less than 1 GB of memory, you'll need to add more in order to install 10.6. Preferably, install as much memory as it can take, according to the technical specifications.
If the machine shipped with OS X 10.6, you need the installation media that came with it: gray installation discs, or a USB flash drive for some MacBook Air models. For early MBA models, you may need a USB optical drive or Remote Disc. You should have received the media from the previous owner, but if you didn't, order replacements from Apple. A retail disc, or the gray discs from another model, will not work.
To boot from an optical disc or a flash drive, insert it, then reboot and hold down the C key at the startup chime. Release the key when you see the gray Apple logo on the screen.
If the machine shipped with OS X 10.7 or later, you don't need media. It should boot into Internet Recovery mode when you hold down the key combination option-command-R at the startup chime. Release the keys when you see a spinning globe.
2. You do own another Mac.
If you already own another Mac that was upgraded in the App Store to the version of OS X that you want to install, and if the new Mac is compatible with it, then you can install it. Use Recovery Disk Assistant to create a bootable USB device and boot the new Mac from it by holding down the C key at the startup chime. Alternatively, if you have a Time Machine backup of OS X 10.7.3 or later on an external hard drive (not a Time Capsule or other network device), you can boot from that by holding down the option key and selecting it from the row of icons that appears. Note that if your other Mac was never upgraded in the App Store, you can't use this method.
Once booted in Recovery, launch Disk Utility and select the icon of the internal drive — not any of the volume icons nested beneath it. In the Partition tab, select the default options: a GUID partition table with one data volume in Mac OS Extended (Journaled) format. This operation will permanently remove all existing data on the drive.
After partitioning, quit Disk Utility and run the OS X Installer. You will need the Apple ID and password that you used to upgrade. When the installation is done, the system will automatically reboot into the Setup Assistant, which will prompt you to transfer the data from another Mac, its backups, or from a Windows computer. If you have any data to transfer, this is usually the best time to do it.
Then run Software Update and install all available system updates from Apple. To upgrade to a major version of OS X newer than 10.6, get it from the Mac App Store. Note that you can't keep an upgraded version that was installed by the previous owner. He or she can't legally transfer it to you, and without the Apple ID you won't be able to update it in Software Update or reinstall, if that becomes necessary. The same goes for any App Store products that the previous owner installed — you have to repurchase them.
3. Other issues
If you see a lock screen when trying to boot from installation media or in Recovery mode, then a firmware password was set by the previous owner, or the machine was remotely locked via iCloud. You'll either have to contact the owner or take the machine to an Apple Store or another authorized service provider to be unlocked. You may be asked for proof of ownership.
If the previous owner "accepted" the bundled iLife applications (iPhoto, iMovie, and Garage Band) in the App Store so that he or she could update them, then they're linked to that Apple ID and you won't be able to download them without buying them. Reportedly, Mac App Store Customer Service has sometimes issued redemption codes for these apps to second owners who asked.
If the previous owner didn't deauthorize the computer in the iTunes Store under his Apple ID, you wont be able to authorize it immediately under your ID. In that case, you'll either have to wait up to 90 days or contact iTunes Support.
When trying to create a new iCloud account, you might get a failure message: "Account limit reached." Apple imposes a limit of three iCloud account setups per device. Erasing the device does not reset the limit. You can still use an account that was created on another device, but you won't be able to create a new one. Contact iCloud Support for more information.

Angry birds froze- how do I exit the app

Using a new iMac and Angry Birds froze up. How can I exit the app? Is there a command similar to CtrlAltDel or something to exit?

Select Force Quit... from the Apple menu. Sometimes you will have to click to another application to get the Apple menu to respond. This will bring up the Force Quit Applications window; stuck applications may appear in this list in red. You can then select the misbehaving application and click the Force Quit button. Occasionally you will have to dismiss this window and repeat the process to really get the app to quit, but this should be rare. If necessary, you can Force Quit multiple applications from this window.
Control-click/right-click on an application's icon in the Dock. Usually you can simply quit an application from this menu. A stuck application will often say Force Quit in place of Quit, though you can hold down the option key if it does not.

Photoshop CC slows down suddenly, for several minutes

Hi!
I have a problem with Photoshop CC. I sit on a 27" iMac, 8GB RAM and an i5 processor, OS X Mavericks, Wacom intuos Pro tablet.
My problem, that suddenly occurs is tha Photoshop CC suddenly slows down to a halt. No error messages, it just gets very very slow. The first sign is that I suddenly cant zoom. I try to zoom, and nothing happens. Then the cursor, still able to move around with no problem, wont change to an arrow when hovering over buttons or menu items. If I open Safari, everything works fine, exept if I go back to Photoshop, then only the properties window will show. Photoshop is like this for up to ten minutes, then suddenly everything happens at once. All the zooming, closing of images if I tried that (with the keyboard), and then it is all fine again.
The problem occurs both when I do complex work with many layers, but also when doing simpler work with just a few layers.
I have 850GB free storage space and Photoshop is allowed to use 5GB of RAM. I usually dont have open more than two pictures at once. I use Lightroom 5, and PS CC as an external editor.
Any ideas how to solve this? It does sound like PS is writing alot to the HD sometimes, but it should not get this slow anyway, and the program does not freeze as in software error. I dont need to force quit PS, I just need to wait it out. Very annoying!
Sorry for my bad English! It is not my first language

Tells us a bit more about the work you are doing:
How many layers?
What types of layers? Shape? Text? etc.
Document dimensions?
Bit depth?
File size on disk?
Also, tell us a little about how things are set up:
Where is your scratch disk?
How much free space on that disk?
How much RAM?

System Slows Down and Freezes a LOT - Memory? Swap? Hard Drive? AV?

I have a 2.4 GHz 24" dual core iMac (identifier: 7,1). It worked fine for a good while and lately I've been having problems that seem to be getting worse (sometimes it seems to get better, then worse again). I have 4 GB of memory and I'm waiting for more RAM to upgrade it to 6 GB, since I hear that's the max anyone's run successfully in this model.
I've often had a number of programs running at once. Usually I have Firefox, Apple Mail, the KDE's Konsole and Kate (from MacPorts), Calendar, Stickies, MacIago, and Pysol running. (Yes, it helps to have a few games up for breaks when I'm working.) I know that's a lot, but for well over a year, I was working with that setup without problems, without getting stuck for long times with the pinwheel of death or anything like that.
I'm not exactly sure when it started, but now I have times where I will do something and the program will freeze and I get the pinwheel of death. I wait and after 30-60 seconds I can do something, but sometimes I still get hesitations and a start-freeze&stop-go mode for a bit. Sometimes this freezes the whole computer for up to 30-60 seconds and I can't even check another space with Command-Arrow.
I've been trying to backtrack to see if I could figure out what is causing this. Sometimes killing Firefox helps, so I switched to Chrome and watched for usage on Activity Monitor and Chrome uses FAR less CPU time. I have FlashBlock and AdBlocker Plus on Chrome (had it on Firefox, and before that, used NoScript for blocking). But I've seen this happen even without a browser open.
I suspect this could be an issue with swap, since recently I was watching and saw spikes in disk usage around these times, but I'm not sure of the correlation yet. Sometimes it seems like whenever I switch to a different program, whenever I use a new feature, I have to wait (as if it's loading library code or something).
Again, this is a recent issue.
I've upgraded from 10.6.5 to 10.6.6, so I don't know if that could effect this.
I've also started using the free version of Sophos Anti-Virus (which is apparently impossible to quit once it's running) and thought it might be doing scans.
What's also puzzled me is seeing that, with 4 GB of memory, Activity Monitor continually shows 1 GB free, but still indicates 2 GB swap files. So is there a reason 25% of my RAM is not being used?
I've also checked and found my drive to be heavily fragmented. I bought iDefrag, but it can't defrag it because there seem to be some bad blocks. Rather than mark them as bad every time it hits that spot, it just tells me it can't access that part of the drive.
My guess is that OS X, for some reason, leaves a set amount of memory free to use for various reasons and that, due to fragmentation, what was once an easy task of accessing something in a swap file is now time-consuming.
Is that on target? What else could be causing this problem? This is beginning to make my iMac unusable. If it's just swap file issues and defrag problems, I'm thinking of cloning my internal 320 GB drive to a 1 TB drive and replacing the original, then running iDefrag for good measure and continuing from there. (It seems like in OS X finding bad blocks is difficult, from what I've seen.)
What can I do and does anyone have any idea what the problem is? I'll be glad to give more details if that helps, but I've tried to include as much as I can already.
Thanks for any ideas or help.

Considering how I've solved this, I'm pretty much shocked that nobody had any answers for this.
I upgraded my drive from the standard 320 GB drive (which had about 79 GB free on it). I used Carbon Copy Clone to copy my system drive to a 1 TB drive, then swapped out the 320 GB for the 1 TB. When I booted it up and started working, I noticed it was back to the way things used to be: I could go from one program to another to another with NO problem at all. No pinwheels of death and I even added a few more more running programs and still had no issue.
I have no idea why, but before, even when there was a 2 GB swap file, 1 GB (out of 4 GB) of RAM was always unused. I don't know if the OS looks at what it can access and figures read/write times and uses that to figure out how much memory it can effectively handle or what, but now I'm using almost all of my 4 GB of RAM and the swap file is smaller than it was.
So upgrading to a larger drive made a HUGE difference. I'm willing to bet that defragging the old one would have made a difference as well, but there were problems with some files and iDefrag could not read them, which also makes me suspect that drive was on its last legs and close to failure. (That and bad sectors could also have slowed down swap, along with fragmentation issues.)
The solution was a bigger drive, but I suspect defragging the old drive might have helped (if it weren't for possible bad blocks). I know deleting files from the old drive did not help too much.

How to test hardware on an old MacBook Pro that is slowing down.

I have the very first-gen MacBook Pro 2.0gHz Core Duo, 2gb ram. I have been using this laptop as my primary since I got it, mostly for development work (Java, Objective-C, Web, etc), but also email, general web surfing, and the occational game (although, not in a while).
Recently, I noticed things were starting to "slow down". Well, not slow down so much as things would get long pauses. For instance, I hit a site in Google Chrome, and the app sits there for like 20-30sec of longer, as if the window is frozen, then *poof*, it draws the page. Sometime, Chrome will even pop up asking if I want to kill the page. It is not the only application that seems to be suffering from this, I just spend a LOT of time on the web, so I tend to notice it much more.
Even more recently, my SpringSource Tool Suite (STS, a custom Eclipse with a bunch of SpringSource plugins) started acting up too. Mostly when I start the Roo Shell and execute a command, STS (read Eclipse) will show the command as "executing", but it seemed to never run. I thought it was maybe a problem with STS or the Roo Shell plugin, but yesterday I ran something as a test, then got a phone call and didn't come back for some time. To my surprise after more than 40min of just sitting there the command ran. Once it ran, it ran in full, normal speed (the command I ran was to rebuild the Eclipse project files using Maven). So, what I thought was frozen was merely paused for a long period of time, just like what I was seeing in Chrome.
So, this has lead me to believe I either have some sort of hardware issue, some sort of heat issue (I have seen this on Wintel laptops where the processor "speed steps" down to almost 33mHz), or some sort of software issue. I really don't want to have to re-install OS X, if I can avoid it. I did boot off the original disks that came with my laptop and ran the Hardware Test, but it came back with no errors. I have iStat Pro installed as well, and the fan speeds are usually around 1800-2000rpm, sometimes jumping to 4000+rpm. CPU tempuratures report around 151º. I also ran the Disk Utility off my 10.6 disks. I do know that my DVD burner no longer burns disks, but it hasn't for more than a year.
Laptop specs:
- MacBook Pro, Model MacBookPro1,1
- OS X 10.6.8
- 2.0gHz Core Duo w/ 2gb DDR2 RAM
- Toshiba MK3252GSX 320gb HDD (replacement for factory 120gb HDD over 1.5yrs ago due to space issues)
- I recently replaced the battery, as the old one had expanded. I use the laptop on wall power 99% of the time.
Thanks,
Mike Bauer

As mentioned above, I did do this. What I am not so certain is how intensive this test is. Stated another way: If this was ran and passed 100%, does this mean everything on my laptop is 100% functional, like the fans, processor, cooling, memory, etc? The drive also checked out when I did the Disk Utility from the 10.6 install CDs, and the S.M.A.R.T. check indicates no disk errors.
Maybe I should take it into a Genius and have them look at it. Just not sure how much that will cost me, and its an old laptop, so I don't want to put too much into it.

Is iOS 8 slowing down the wi fi on my iPad air?

Having lived through several OS updates I know that it takes a little while for apps to all be updated and for little glitches to be worked out. However, I think iOS 8 has brought on some real issues with my iPad Air.
The overall issue is a slow connection to the internet. This happens at home and in several other locations where I have used the wi-fi since updating to iOS 8 a few weeks, ago. My work PC works fine (well... at least, the internet does), but my daugter's iPad mini (also updated to iOS 8) will slow down when she is watching Netflix, occassionally. The family also has an iMac, which is working fine.
While using the Washtington Post (downloading the newspaper), Pinterest, Safari, You Tube, Mail and the App Store, the connection seems to slow down to a crawl making it impossible to continue what I am doing.
I've shut down and restarted the iPad, and then it works fine for a while, only to slow down again sometime later. Sometimes the problem will seem to fix itself, but then it slows down again. Sometimes, it happens when it comes out of sleep mode, and sometimes not. Since I use my iPad to work from home, it is really frustrating. I can delay my gratification when it comes to games and such, but not when I am updating my blog or reading my email.
I've Googled iOS 8 and wi fi and saw that there are a number of issues out there. Some of the big tech magazines and websites are tracking some similiar issues. I'm curious if anyone knows if this is all related to iOS 8 and if a future update will resolve it, or if there are ways I can test my hardware on my iPad to make sure it is working properly.
Thanks!

How to remove ios 8 ? This is biggest failure of Apple. It slow down my ipad , freez application, freez key board....?

Angry Birds slowing down sometimes

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for