Apple documentation
In the apple documentation for class references, what is the difference between tasks and instance/class methods?
A task is something you want to accomplish. Call the instance/class methods to accomplish the task. When you click the Tasks link in the documentation for a particular class, the tasks are the headings and the instance/class methods are the links under the headings.
Take a look at the Tasks section of the NSString class as an example. Some tasks for NSString include creating and initializing strings, getting a string's length, and getting numeric values out of strings. These tasks are high-level goals you want to accomplish. Suppose you want to get the numeric value out of a string. You would call one of the methods under the Getting Numeric Values heading, such as -floatValue or -integerValue, to get the numeric value.
Similar Messages
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After a recent OS update, Clamshell mode quit working. I couldn't find any Apple documentation
that would help. So many people were stabbing around in the dark, until I finally found the following information
that is lacking from any Apple documentation that I've been able to find.
Here's what I found to be the most helpful:
Forcing a MacBook to use the External Monitor:
I tried about everything: Rebooting, switching off completely, removing and inserting the Thunderbolt->HDMI adapter etc.
The only thing that finally worked was the following:
1. Take it out of the dock and connect to Power and HDMI to the TV.
Shut down the Mac. Turn it on and close the lid. It will now boot up on the external screen.
Log onto the Mac, and put it in sleep mode (Option-Command-Eject).
Put it back into the dock and wake it up with the spacebar.
It should be OK now... until the next update...
Note: One indication that you’re going to have extreme trouble with this is when (occasionally and without reason) the Mirroring Options icon shows up on the top icon bar.
Other useful commands:
“Command + F1” puts PC in Two-Screen MIRROR mode.
If it’s REALLY being stubborn, do the following (Clamshell Must be open
to see the arrangement tab.):
In System Preferences > Display on the MacBook screen there should be an Arrangement tab when you have the MacBook hooked up to the TV and both screens working. When you click the Arrangement tab do you see two monitors side by side? One of them will have a Menu Bar at the top. Just click on the Menu Bar and drag it to the second monitor (Yes, I know, it’s hard to grab ahold of it...) That will make your EXTERNAL monitor your main screen.
You can now use your MacBook in Clamshell Mode with a wired or Bluetooth keyboard and mouse. http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3131 When you disconnect from the TV, make sure it’s asleep (Option+Command+Eject buttons) or your Menu Bar will automatically change back to the MacBook.After a recent OS update, Clamshell mode quit working. I couldn't find any Apple documentation
that would help. So many people were stabbing around in the dark, until I finally found the following information
that is lacking from any Apple documentation that I've been able to find.
Here's what I found to be the most helpful:
Forcing a MacBook to use the External Monitor:
I tried about everything: Rebooting, switching off completely, removing and inserting the Thunderbolt->HDMI adapter etc.
The only thing that finally worked was the following:
1. Take it out of the dock and connect to Power and HDMI to the TV.
Shut down the Mac. Turn it on and close the lid. It will now boot up on the external screen.
Log onto the Mac, and put it in sleep mode (Option-Command-Eject).
Put it back into the dock and wake it up with the spacebar.
It should be OK now... until the next update...
Note: One indication that you’re going to have extreme trouble with this is when (occasionally and without reason) the Mirroring Options icon shows up on the top icon bar.
Other useful commands:
“Command + F1” puts PC in Two-Screen MIRROR mode.
If it’s REALLY being stubborn, do the following (Clamshell Must be open
to see the arrangement tab.):
In System Preferences > Display on the MacBook screen there should be an Arrangement tab when you have the MacBook hooked up to the TV and both screens working. When you click the Arrangement tab do you see two monitors side by side? One of them will have a Menu Bar at the top. Just click on the Menu Bar and drag it to the second monitor (Yes, I know, it’s hard to grab ahold of it...) That will make your EXTERNAL monitor your main screen.
You can now use your MacBook in Clamshell Mode with a wired or Bluetooth keyboard and mouse. http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3131 When you disconnect from the TV, make sure it’s asleep (Option+Command+Eject buttons) or your Menu Bar will automatically change back to the MacBook. -
Whenever I update from Windows 7 get error 1602, iPod shows USB connection to iTunes, but iTunes will not recognize the device. None of the Apple documentation helps. The Apple Mobile Device driver is loaded and operating. The anti-virus software and firewall are not at fault (were uninstalled, and made no difference). The iTunes on my older machine running Vista does recognize the inoperative iPod (iTunes has detetced an iPod in recovery mode) and allows me to restore the device. Can anyone help to resolve this problem on the Windows 7 PC?
So yu tried all of this:
Error 1600, 1601, 1602: Try the following steps to resolve this error:
Ensure proper USB isolation troubleshooting has been performed, and test with a known-good cable.
Follow the steps listed for Error 1604.
This error may be resolved by disabling, deactivating, or uninstalling third-party security, antivirus, and firewall software. See steps in this article for details on troubleshooting security software.
Error 1604: This error is often related to USB timing. Try changing USB ports, uninstalling and reinstalling USB ports, and other available USB troubleshooting steps (troubleshooting USB connections, device not recognized properly, computer won't recognize a FireWire or USB device). If you are using a dock, bypass it and connect directly to the white Apple USB dock connector cable. If the issue persists on a known-good computer, the device may need service.
If the issue is not resolved by USB isolation troubleshooting, and another computer is not available, try these steps to resolve the issue:
Connect the device to iTunes, confirm that the device is in Recovery Mode. If it's not in Recovery Mode,put it into Recovery Mode.
Restore and wait for error 1604.
When prompted, click OK.
Close and reopen iTunes while iPhone remains connected.
iPhone should now be recognized in Recovery Mode again.
Try to restore again.
If the steps above do not resolve the issue, try restoring using a known-good USB cable, computer, and network connection.
If you had then time for an appointment at ther Genius Bar of an Apple store. -
HT4970 Has Apple documented that it has removed the ability to share Reminders in IOS 6?
I have upgraded to IOS 6 and can no longer find out how to Share my Reminder lists. Based on what I can see - it appears that the functionality has been removed - but I can not find any thing directly from Apple that confirms this. I am relatively new to the Apple world and I am astounded that they would remove functionality in an upgrade. Is this common?
Hi, I have a similar problem. I live in the UK in an area where the 3G signal is weak. Ever since I have used iphone (since iphone 3G) - I have used it with 3G switched off when at home. That way it was forced to use the GPRS (or 2G) mobile signal from o2.
This worked fine, and I had 4 or 5 bars of signal always. If I enabled 3G at home that would drop to between 1 bar and NO SERVICE. This made using the iphone as a telephone virtually impossible as call quality was rubbish and often dropped out.
I used wifi for internet so it was never an issue, and I switched on 3G when out if I needed it.
Since the ios8 upgrade APPLE have taken away the ability to switch between 2G and 3G. Instead the button now switches between 4G and either 2G or 3G, this either is decided by the iphone itself depending on the strength of the 2G and 3G signals.
I have spoken to APPLE twice about this. The first time yeaterday they flatly blamed o2 and said it was nothing to do with them. So I called o2 and guess what; yes you got it, they blamed Apple. IT reminded me of when Steve Jobs got up on that stage and denied there was ever a problem with the iPhone 4 antenna a few years back.
So I called Apple back, and today the guy I spoke to did seem to understand my problem and sympathise with it. He said I was not alone and that hopefully it would be fixed by an update.
Luckily for me I am only 3 months away from an upgrade, so if they dont fix it by then I am going to take the leap and jump to Android.
The short term solution - and you need to be quick if you have already upgraded to ios8, is to downgrade to ios7.1.2
This is not officially supported by Apple, but it you google it, it is quite easy, you have to download an ipsw file and then do a restore in itunes, but you will lose everything on the phone, and you cannot back up from a backup made with ios8.
I hope they sort this out, it has driven me mad over the past 2 days.
We need the Toggle between 2G and 3G to be re-instated. -
I Shut down my Mac by holding in the power button after my iMac froze and now when I try to turn it back it on all I get is the grey screen with Apple loge and the timer and doesn't get any further. I have tried the diagnostic test but nothing was found.
Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
To restart an unresponsive computer, press and hold the power button for a few seconds until the power shuts off, then release, wait a few more seconds, and press it again briefly.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a startup failure is to secure the data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since the last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to start. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Start up from the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.” The article refers to starting up from a DVD, but the procedure in Recovery mode is the same. You don't need a DVD if you're running OS X 10.7 or later.
b. If Step 1a fails because of disk errors, and no other Mac is available, then you may be able to salvage some of your files by copying them in the Finder. If you already have an external drive with OS X installed, start up from it. Otherwise, if you have Internet access, follow the instructions on this page to prepare the external drive and install OS X on it. You'll use the Recovery installer, rather than downloading it from the App Store.
c. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, start the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
d. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. You might be able to start up in safe mode even though you can't start up normally. Otherwise, start up from an external drive, or else use the technique in Step 1b, 1c, or 1d to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
Step 3
Sometimes a startup failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 4
If a desktop Mac hangs at a plain gray screen with a movable cursor, the keyboard may not be recognized. Press and hold the button on the side of an Apple wireless keyboard to make it discoverable. If need be, replace or recharge the batteries. If you're using a USB keyboard connected to a hub, connect it to a built-in port.
Step 5
If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
Step 6
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to start up, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can start up now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
Step 7
If you've started from an external storage device, make sure that the internal startup volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Start up in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled in OS X 10.9 or earlier, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to start and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know the login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you start up in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, the startup volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 11. If you ever have another problem with the drive, replace it immediately.
If you can start and log in in safe mode, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on the startup volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then restart as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the startup process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 8
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select the startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then restart as usual.
Step 9
If the startup device is an aftermarket SSD, it may need a firmware update and/or a forced "garbage collection." Instructions for doing this with a Crucial-branded SSD were posted here. Some of those instructions may apply to other brands of SSD, but you should check with the vendor's tech support.
Step 10
Reinstall the OS. If the Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 11
Do as in Step 9, but this time erase the startup volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically restart into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer the data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 12
This step applies only to models that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery: all Mac Pro's and some others (not current models.) Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a startup failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
Step 13
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider. -
my Mac book air will not start up it hangs in the middle of the status bar when I turn it on and will not move.
Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
To restart an unresponsive computer, press and hold the power button for a few seconds until the power shuts off, then release, wait a few more seconds, and press it again briefly.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a startup failure is to secure the data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since the last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to start. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Start up from the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.” The article refers to starting up from a DVD, but the procedure in Recovery mode is the same. You don't need a DVD if you're running OS X 10.7 or later.
b. If Step 1a fails because of disk errors, and no other Mac is available, then you may be able to salvage some of your files by copying them in the Finder. If you already have an external drive with OS X installed, start up from it. Otherwise, if you have Internet access, follow the instructions on this page to prepare the external drive and install OS X on it. You'll use the Recovery installer, rather than downloading it from the App Store.
c. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, start the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
d. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. You might be able to start up in safe mode even though you can't start up normally. Otherwise, start up from an external drive, or else use the technique in Step 1b, 1c, or 1d to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
Step 3
Sometimes a startup failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 4
If a desktop Mac hangs at a plain gray screen with a movable cursor, the keyboard may not be recognized. Press and hold the button on the side of an Apple wireless keyboard to make it discoverable. If need be, replace or recharge the batteries. If you're using a USB keyboard connected to a hub, connect it to a built-in port.
Step 5
If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
Step 6
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to start up, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can start up now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
Step 7
If you've started from an external storage device, make sure that the internal startup volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Start up in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled in OS X 10.9 or earlier, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to start and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know the login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you start up in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, the startup volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 11. If you ever have another problem with the drive, replace it immediately.
If you can start and log in in safe mode, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on the startup volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then restart as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the startup process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 8
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select the startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then restart as usual.
Step 9
If the startup device is an aftermarket SSD, it may need a firmware update and/or a forced "garbage collection." Instructions for doing this with a Crucial-branded SSD were posted here. Some of those instructions may apply to other brands of SSD, but you should check with the vendor's tech support.
Step 10
Reinstall the OS. If the Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 11
Do as in Step 9, but this time erase the startup volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically restart into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer the data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 12
This step applies only to models that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery: all Mac Pro's and some others (not current models.) Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a startup failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
Step 13
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider. -
My 2011 IMac will not boot up past the White apple logo screen with the whirly circle
My 2011 IMac will not boot up past the White apple logo screen with the whirly circle. I have tried various commands but to no avail. does anybody have any advice?
Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a startup failure is to secure the data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since the last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to start. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Start up from the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.” The article refers to starting up from a DVD, but the procedure in Recovery mode is the same. You don't need a DVD if you're running OS X 10.7 or later.
b. If Step 1a fails because of disk errors, and no other Mac is available, then you may be able to salvage some of your files by copying them in the Finder. If you already have an external drive with OS X installed, start up from it. Otherwise, if you have Internet access, follow the instructions on this page to prepare the external drive and install OS X on it. You'll use the Recovery installer, rather than downloading it from the App Store.
c. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, start the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
d. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. You might be able to start up in safe mode even though you can't start up normally. Otherwise, start up from an external drive, or else use the technique in Step 1b, 1c, or 1d to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
Step 3
Sometimes a startup failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 4
If you use a wireless keyboard, trackpad, or mouse, replace or recharge the batteries. The battery level shown in the Bluetooth menu item may not be accurate.
Step 5
If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
Step 6
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to start up, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can start up now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
Step 7
If you've started from an external storage device, make sure that the internal startup volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Start up in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a Fusion Drive or a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to start and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know the login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you start up in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, the startup volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 11. If you ever have another problem with the drive, replace it immediately.
If you can start and log in in safe mode, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on the startup volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then restart as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the startup process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 8
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select the startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then restart as usual.
Step 9
If the startup device is an aftermarket SSD, it may need a firmware update and/or a forced "garbage collection." Instructions for doing this with a Crucial-branded SSD were posted here. Some of those instructions may apply to other brands of SSD, but you should check with the vendor's tech support.
Step 10
Reinstall the OS. If the Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 11
Do as in Step 9, but this time erase the startup volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically restart into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer the data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 12
This step applies only to models that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery: all Mac Pro's and some others (not current models.) Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a startup failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
Step 13
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider. -
Apple TV 2 Home Sharing depends on Source Device?
So I've been running into an issue with Home Sharing on my Apple TV 2. This is present on both the 4.2.2 and 4.3.2 firmware. (I own 2 Apple TV 2's. One vanilla and one running FireCore aTV Flash Black)
When attempting to play back video content from my Mac Mini (C2D, 2GB RAM, 2.0Ghz, Mid 2007) I was unable to load any HD content, and SD content was also pretty miserable. I recently discovered this when trying to play Dexter Season 5 HD from my Mac Mini to my Apple TV 2. Both devices on wi-fi initially.
I tried this both from wired and wireless configurations, I tried switching my Airport Extreme to 5Ghz only, (which my Mac Mini lacks "n"), and no combination of configurations seemed to resolve the issue.
Reluctantly, I decided to try importing the TV Shows to my Macbook Pro (13", 8GB RAM, 2.4Ghz, Mid-2010). What I found was that everything now worked seamlessly. I tried this wired, wireless, and even went so far as to hook my MBP up to the same network cable my Mac Mini was using to see if it had anything to do with the gigabit switch it was connected to. In every scenario Home Sharing to my Apple TV 2 from my Macbook Pro worked as designed.
So this got me thinking. Does the ability/quality to AirPlay/Home Share to the Apple TV 2 depend on the source device? My CPU nor my RAM on the Mac Mini were ever troubled or maxed out by attempting to stream content to my Apple TV 2. This leads me to believe the only component that could be causing the issue is the GPU. My Mac Mini only has the Intel GMA 950 GPU, my MBP has a NVIDIA GeForce 320M 256 MB.
It makes sense to me that the Apple TV 2 isn't really decoding the video file. The hardware really isn't there to support decoding video streams. It seems likely to me that the heavy lifting is done by the source device and the transcoded video/audio is simply presented by the ATV2.
Does anyone actually understand the technical workings of AirPlay/Home Sharing? Perhaps an iOS developer?
If this is the case I'm going to have to start looking to upgrade my Mac Mini. It's about time anyway, but this would be the final tipping point in my upgrade debate.
P.S.: "Senior" community members who have nothing to contribute should refrain from responding to this thread only to pad their post counts. Legitimate responses only please.Ok, I'm glad you've said that, now what documentation do you have to back that up? Where in the Apple documentation/support site can you point to backup your claim? Do you tested any configurations that would support your assumptions?
I'd assume that the Apple TV 2 does most of the work, but the evidence I have collected does not support that assumption.
You've just thrown your own response under the bus. If the video is compressed, and the ATV2 is doing the decompression, you wouldn't need to worry about bandwidth, now would you?
This is EXACTLY why I don't come to the communities/forums anymore. Every "know-it-all" thinks they have THE answer, but they are just as clueless as everyone else. The difference being they are chasing a status, and not the true answer to anyone's actual problem or question.
If you would like to continue to dig this hole feel free. I'll take the shovel when you are done.
I've been moderated and banned by this forum before for calling this kind of behaviour out, and I'm sure this will happen yet again.
Does anyone else have documentation, proof, or some other concrete evidence to support how Home Sharing works from a device to the Apple TV 2? -
How do I reset apple tv software pre 5.1?
I upgraded my Apple TV to 5.1 but now I cannot use it because of T&C problem. My iPad 1 cannot run iOS 6 (crazy!) and I have a MacBookPro running 10.7.4 (which I need to test some apps).
How do I reset the Apple TV to a previous compatible version?Thanks for the tip. I had not tried that because the Apple documentation says (quote)
Restoring your Apple TV (2nd and 3rd generation) to factory settings
On Apple TV, choose Settings > General > Reset, and then click Restore.
Your Apple TV will restore to its factory settings, and will also download and install the latest Apple TV software update. This process may take some time. Do not disconnect your Apple TV's power cable during the restore process.
If you cannot use this process, and you have a micro USB cable, try the steps in the next section.
(endquote) and I do not want "the latest Apple software".
In the meantime I've solved the Apple TV problem by udating my mac mini to OS X 10.8 and agreeing to T&Cs. Then PhotoStream appears on Apple TV. I'm steering clear of iOS 6 as no iPad 1 support (seriously ****** off).
Thanks anyway. -
All apple application not work
Need help! I saw following in the console:
13/3/15 12:57:15.111 pm com.apple.xpc.launchd[1]: (com.apple.systemprofiler[2417]) Service exited with abnormal code: 1
13/3/15 12:57:15.111 pm com.apple.xpc.launchd[1]: (com.apple.systemprofiler) Service only ran for 0 seconds. Pushing respawn out by 1 seconds.
13/3/15 12:57:16.183 pm System Information[2418]: Unable to load nib file: SPApp, exiting
13/3/15 12:57:16.187 pm com.apple.xpc.launchd[1]: (com.apple.systemprofiler[2418]) Service exited with abnormal code: 1
13/3/15 12:57:16.187 pm com.apple.xpc.launchd[1]: (com.apple.systemprofiler) Service only ran for 0 seconds. Pushing respawn out by 1 seconds.
13/3/15 12:57:17.248 pm System Information[2419]: Unable to load nib file: SPApp, exiting
13/3/15 12:57:17.251 pm com.apple.xpc.launchd[1]: (com.apple.systemprofiler[2419]) Service exited with abnormal code: 1
13/3/15 12:57:17.251 pm com.apple.xpc.launchd[1]: (com.apple.systemprofiler) Service only ran for 0 seconds. Pushing respawn out by 1 seconds.
13/3/15 12:57:18.314 pm System Information[2420]: Unable to load nib file: SPApp, exiting
13/3/15 12:57:18.316 pm com.apple.xpc.launchd[1]: (com.apple.systemprofiler[2420]) Service exited with abnormal code: 1
13/3/15 12:57:18.316 pm com.apple.xpc.launchd[1]: (com.apple.systemprofiler) Service only ran for 0 seconds. Pushing respawn out by 1 seconds.
13/3/15 12:57:19.375 pm System Information[2421]: Unable to load nib file: SPApp, exiting
13/3/15 12:57:19.378 pm com.apple.xpc.launchd[1]: (com.apple.systemprofiler[2421]) Service exited with abnormal code: 1
13/3/15 12:57:19.378 pm com.apple.xpc.launchd[1]: (com.apple.systemprofiler) Service only ran for 0 seconds. Pushing respawn out by 1 seconds.
13/3/15 12:57:20.439 pm System Information[2422]: Unable to load nib file: SPApp, exiting
13/3/15 12:57:20.441 pm com.apple.xpc.launchd[1]: (com.apple.systemprofiler[2422]) Service exited with abnormal code: 1
13/3/15 12:57:20.441 pm com.apple.xpc.launchd[1]: (com.apple.systemprofiler) Service only ran for 0 seconds. Pushing respawn out by 1 seconds.
Beside windows and others application, all apple application i.e keynote,pages, numbers, mail can't open!Step 1
The first step in dealing with a startup failure is to secure the data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since the last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to start. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Start up from the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.” The article refers to starting up from a DVD, but the procedure in Recovery mode is the same. You don't need a DVD if you're running OS X 10.7 or later.
b. If Step 1a fails because of disk errors, and no other Mac is available, then you may be able to salvage some of your files by copying them in the Finder. If you already have an external drive with OS X installed, start up from it. Otherwise, if you have Internet access, follow the instructions on this page to prepare the external drive and install OS X on it. You'll use the Recovery installer, rather than downloading it from the App Store.
c. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, start the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
d. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
You might be able to start up in safe mode even though you can't start up normally. Otherwise, start up from an external drive, or else use the technique in Step 1b, 1c, or 1d to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation. -
IMac starts with sound but remains with Apple logo and the clock running indefinetely
After software upgrade ( from mavericks to new mavericks ) iMac doesn't start anymore. It remains always in the same mode: after the sound of start the Apple logo and the clock that runs indefinitely without the start of the software. Someone knows what to do?
Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a startup failure is to secure the data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since the last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to start. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Start up from the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.”
b. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, start the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
c. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. You might be able to start up in safe mode even though you can't start up normally. Otherwise, start up from an external drive, or else use either of the techniques in Steps 1b and 1c to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
Step 3
Sometimes a startup failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 4
If you use a wireless keyboard, trackpad, or mouse, replace or recharge the batteries. The battery level shown in the Bluetooth menu item may not be accurate.
Step 5
If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
Step 6
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to start up, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can start up now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
Step 7
If you've started from an external storage device, make sure that the internal startup volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Start up in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a Fusion Drive or a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to start and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know the login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you start up in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, the startup volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 10. If you ever have another problem with the drive, replace it immediately.
If you can start and log in in safe mode, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on the startup volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then restart as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the startup process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 8
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select the startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then restart as usual.
Step 9
Reinstall the OS. If the Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 10
Do as in Step 9, but this time erase the startup volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically restart into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer the data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 11
This step applies only to models that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery: all Mac Pro's and some others (not current models.) Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a startup failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
Step 12
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider. -
ITunes 10.4 Deployment Documentation?
Forgive me if the answer is obvious, but I've looked all over and just haven't been able to find what I'm looking for...
Is there any "official" Apple documentation for packaging and deploying iTunes? Or perhaps a "customization wizard"?
I'm looking for answers to questions such as; where are the preferences stored and what files and registry settings
would need to be copied, etc.
Version 10.1.2.17 saved the preferences to the "iTunesPrefs.xml" files in %user%\AppData\Apple Computer\ITunes and
%user%\AppData\Apple Computer\iTunes, but at first blush it appears version 10.4.0.80 may be saving some information
elsewhere, also. But I'm having a tough time figuring out exactly where.
I'm using Wise Package Studio to create a transform... pretty simple with v10.1. Seem to be struggling a bit with v10.4,
so any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
-MichaelMy itunes 10.4 x64 crashes when minimized to it's toolbar on the taskbar.
-
I have an early 2008 MacBook and running iOS Lion. I just turned on FileVault and restarted my computer as instructed. It told me before hand that I would still be able to use my Mac while the files were being encrypted. However, when I logged in on the secure gray login screen, I was only directed to a plain gray screen with the apple logo in the center. There are no time turners or anything moving. Is my Mac encrypting or is it frozen in some sort of way? If it is encrypting, how long does it usually take? and if it is frozen, how do I unfreeze it?
Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a startup failure is to secure the data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since the last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to start. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Start up from the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.” The article refers to starting up from a DVD, but the procedure in Recovery mode is the same. You don't need a DVD if you're running OS X 10.7 or later.
b. If Step 1a fails because of disk errors, and no other Mac is available, then you may be able to salvage some of your files by copying them in the Finder. If you already have an external drive with OS X installed, start up from it. Otherwise, if you have Internet access, follow the instructions on this page to prepare the external drive and install OS X on it. You'll use the Recovery installer, rather than downloading it from the App Store.
c. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, start the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
d. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. You might be able to start up in safe mode even though you can't start up normally. Otherwise, start up from an external drive, or else use the technique in Step 1b, 1c, or 1d to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
Step 3
Sometimes a startup failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 4
If you use a wireless keyboard, trackpad, or mouse, replace or recharge the batteries. The battery level shown in the Bluetooth menu item may not be accurate.
Step 5
If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
Step 6
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to start up, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can start up now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
Step 7
If you've started from an external storage device, make sure that the internal startup volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Start up in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to start and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know the login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you start up in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, the startup volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 11. If you ever have another problem with the drive, replace it immediately.
If you can start and log in in safe mode, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on the startup volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then restart as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the startup process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 8
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select the startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then restart as usual.
Step 9
If the startup device is an aftermarket SSD, it may need a firmware update and/or a forced "garbage collection." Instructions for doing this with a Crucial-branded SSD were posted here. Some of those instructions may apply to other brands of SSD, but you should check with the vendor's tech support.
Step 10
Reinstall the OS. If the Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 11
Do as in Step 9, but this time erase the startup volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically restart into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer the data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 12
This step applies only to models that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery: all Mac Pro's and some others (not current models.) Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a startup failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
Step 13
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider. -
What are the pixel dimensions for creating an Apple ibook book cover?
I'm trying to create a book cover for Apple ibooks, what are the pixel dimensions requirements?
Thanks again.
Apple seems to have made it more confusing than it should be.
As an aside, the Apple documentation contradicts itself.
Cover art (also known as a marketing image or jacket) should be at least 1400 pixels along the smaller axis and must be a JPEG or PNG file in RGB Color mode.
This clearly says the shorter side must be at least 1400 pixels. The next sentence says this:
For an average trade paperback, this could be 400 x 1400 minimum size, as the books are generally taller than they are wide.
That doesn't make sense, seeing that the shorter side is supposed to be at least 1400 pixels, meaning it should say "1400 x 4900" for the same aspect ratio.
...I did notice this too.
So, if as you say, that the Cover Art and Cover image terms are the same and the 2 million limit does not apply, then it is unclear to me why Apple sent this message to me about cover file being rejected
"Action Required: Your book could not be delivered to the iBookstore.
The following images are larger than two million pixels and must be resized:
Full ePub: Cover_xyz.jpg "
I'll probably need to have the cover file in epub and Cover Image for Asset in iTunes Producer be named differently (but be copies of the same file) so I can understand which one is the "problem" file.
And finally, why does Apple refer to Cover Art twice here and then end in last sentence with Cover Image if they are the same ( and if they are the same why not state "this cover image").
"Cover art (also known as a marketing image or jacket) should be at least 1400 pixels along the smaller axis and must be a JPEG or PNG file in RGB Color mode. For an average trade paperback, this could be 400 x 1400 minimum size, as the books are generally taller than they are wide. For best results, deliver the largest pixel dimensions possible. When possible, match cover art to the cover contained in the book file. The 2 million pixel maximum does not apply to the cover image". -
i switch on my mac book pro and all i get is the apple logo and below a loading wheel , but its stuck there for like an hour !!! help??
Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a boot failure is to secure your data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since your last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to boot. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Boot into the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.”
b. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, boot the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
c. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. The easiest way to deal with the problem is to boot from an external drive, or else to use either of the techniques in Steps 1b and 1c to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
Step 3
Sometimes a boot failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 4
If you use a wireless keyboard, trackpad, or mouse, replace or recharge the batteries. The battery level shown in the Bluetooth menu item may not be accurate.
Step 5
If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
Step 6
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to boot, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can boot now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
Step 7
If you've booted from an external storage device, make sure that your internal boot volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Boot in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the boot volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to boot and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know your login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you boot in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, your boot volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 6.
If you can boot and log in now, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on your boot volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then reboot as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the boot process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 8
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select your startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then reboot as usual.
Step 9
Reinstall the OS. If your Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 10
Repeat Step 9, but this time erase the boot volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically reboot into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer your data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 11
This step applies only to models that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery: all Mac Pro's and some others (not current models.) Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a boot failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
Step 12
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider.
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