Artic silver 5 reviews thread

well i can only find one in german so far
but the numbers you can all understand
the best just got better and the new stuff i understand does not conduct juice as well
http://www.dirkvader.de/frame.php?site=http://dirkvader.de/page/arcticsilver5.html
found more
http://www.overklokking.no/annet/arctic_silver_5/eindex.html

Inside Project.com has a review on 10 differant compounds including Arctic silver and my favorite Shin-EtsuG-751 .

Similar Messages

Need clarification on exact size/amount of Artic Silver to apply on AMD64 3000+

I am installing the OEM HSF on my AMD64 3000+ winchester CPU using Artic Silver and I need a bit of clarification about the size/amount of the Artic Silver blob that I need to put on the CPU heat spreader.
EDIT - I'm reading the Artic Silver instructions right now from the website:
Quote
Only a small amount of Arctic Silver is needed
P4- About the size of an uncooked grain of short-grain white rice or 2/3 of a BB.
Athlon64- About the size of one and a half uncooked grains of short-grain white rice or 3/4 of a BB.
Could someone give me a diameter in millimetres (mm) or something? I'll go look for some rice in the house, but anyways......lol... :P
For clarification, I want to be sure I put the proper amount of AS on the heat spreader. I don't really know how big a BB is exactly. Is a BB a ball bearing or a "BB" used in bb guns? I'm guessing the size I should use is around 3 or 4 mm? Could someone clarify this for me before I go ahead?
How much AS should I apply to the heat spreader? How big should the round blob of AS be?
thanx,

Ok, but using a peice of paper may introduce dust, lint or paper particles. They don't even say to spread the AS compound around at all, they just say:
Quote
9. On an Intel P4 or Athlon64 type CPU with a large metal heat spreader, put a small amount of Arctic Silver onto the center of the heat spreader as shown in the photo.
Only a small amount of Arctic Silver is needed
P4- About the size of an uncooked grain of short-grain white rice or 2/3 of a BB.
Athlon64- About the size of one and a half uncooked grains of short-grain white rice or 3/4 of a BB.
10. RECHECK to make sure no foreign contaminants are present on either the bottom of the heatsink or the top of the CPU core. Mount the heatsink on the CPU per the heatsink's instructions. Be sure to lower the heatsink straight down onto the CPU.
Once the heatsink is properly mounted, grasp the heatsink and very gently twist it slightly clockwise and counterclockwise one time each if possible. (Just one or two degrees or so.)
Please note that some heatsinks cannot be twisted once mounted.
Our testing has shown that this method minimizes the possibility of air bubbles and voids in the thermal interface between the heat spreader and the heatsink. Since the vast majority of the heat from the core travels directly through the heat spreader, it is more important to have a good interface directly above the actual CPU core than it is to have the heat spreader covered with compound from corner to corner.
So they say to put a little tiny blob on there and just attach the heatsink right on there. I am guessing that the attaching of the heatsink does the work of spreading the compound and avoids voids..lol..if you excuse the pun.

Do I need Artic Silver ??? Need Help Please !!!

I have an Xp 2400+ with retail hs&f i think my temps are a little high i did not have compound when i put sys together but have some artic silver 2 now should i apply or just leave alone ? Also am i doing any damage by not having any compound on it at all ?
C.P.U. 53-C idle ---56-C Full Load
System 26-C idel ---30-C Full Load
Msi KT4V-L {6712}
AMD XP 2400+ {266}
1 stick 256 Megs 2700 DDR Ram PNY {333}
GeForce 5200FX 128DDR AGP 8X
Audigy 2 Platium
Sony DvD 16X
Sony 16X DVdSony DVD-+RW
Creative Mega Works THX 5.1 {500}watts Awesome !!!
Antec Lanboy 350psu true power
Cox High Speed Internet
Thermaltake intake 3speed fan
Thermaltake exhaust 3speed fan

There is a lot of sense and nonsense written on heatconducting grease. Its only objective is to fill the microscopic airpockets between the heatsink and the core of the CPU. A pretty comprehensive test has been done comparing various materials from specialised greases, vaseline and would you believe even water!! All materials do the job and the differences are a few degrees only at best. Water did the job as well, but will quickly evaporate. It just showed that any material improving the contact between core and heatsink will do. Use a material that will not dry out. If after months or years it turns to a powdery cake the thermal contact will be gone. Thermal pads are fine and avoid the common mistake of overgreasing. Overgreasing with artic silver is a disaster because it is an electrical conductor too.

CPU Thermals...and Artic Silver 5

I have heard many users throughout these forums and other mac places of discussion taking the heatsick off and using new thermal paste to improve heat transfer.
I was thinking about putting Arctic Silver 5 on there when I recieve my MacBook.
What do y'all think and what have you done to combat the heat issues?

Here's some food for thought
macdevcenter
The conclusion of the article, he only saw a couple of degrees lower from adding Artic Silver 5. Not worth the pain and risk of making your Macbook a brick. While the article is focused on the MacBook pro, I think the lessons taken away from this are directly applicable.
My MB has had temps around 60c after about an hour of normal use. If I push it harder by running some memory intensive apps the temp can go beyond 75c
While its warmer then I'd prefer from it seems to be "normal" by apple
Apple KB
For me, the risk of ruining my laptop looms too large, the warranty will be voided and the result may be marginal at best.
Finally since I've never applied this stuff, why would I think I could do it better then Apple.
Mike

Artic silver 5 for graphics card

in about 30 minutes im about to crack this comp open and add some paste to the heatsink in my 9600se unless AS 5 conducts electricity somehow. I think my GPU is over heating. I got 3 case fans.

Likely yes. The idea is to get a very thin layer covering the whole heat spreader but you don't want a lot. Artics site does have a guide to it's use and it does show you how to apply it properly. I would go with what they say. Basically though you will have to look them up as I don't have their link handy ATM. Google is your freind.

I need help with ammount of Artic Silver Paste

Hello I am new to you all and came from a link that was posted on the EVGA website forum of theres any ways I was hoping some could tell me how much paste do I put on the Pentium chip do I only use a small amount or do I cover the entire silver area of the chip with a slim coat so I don't sqush it all over the MB or do I just put enough on it to make contact with the heatsink I was just curious cause on the AMD you cover the entire diode so I assume that you would picture the edzack same ammount on the Pentium chip imagining a diode there hehe..... )

Quote
Originally posted by RLemmon
Quote
Originally posted by Assaf
The silver based arctic silver is conductive, but you can use this which is better than the generic white stuff and pretty much as good as arctic silverIII.
The boxed CPU comes with a thermal pad pre applyed to the heatsink so you don't have to get any compound unless you want the better cooling or want to be sure you can remove and then place back the heatsink if you ever need to.
If you do use some compound remove the pad from the heatsink and clean off the leftovers of the pad with alcohol or acetone.
Why does it say non-conductive on there website then ??? Im Lost I heard if like the stuff metal in the air gets in it it could cause a short but I dalt that hehe:(
Hi there again I see now Arctic Silver II is the first premium silver silver is always conductive hehe so I want somthin that has no silver huh thanx for the info budd I apreesheate that and I will go with your link you gave me and tahnx again budd You sure are smart and know the stuff to get thanx again.

Artic silver 5 for noobs (AMD 3400+ newcastle)

Hi everyone,
I just wanted to share my experience with other noobs to arctic silver 5. This was my first time messing with thermal paste. My system is is listed below. I was using the stock HSF and thermal paste since I bought the retail version. CoolnQuiet disabled.
The first time I applied, I followed the directions from arctic cooling's website: "3/4 of a grain of uncooked a rice and lower the heatsink into it." After doing that, my idle/full load temperatures went up! I let it run for roughly the ~ 200 hours they recommend, but still, they were higher. Something was wrong.
So I pull the HSF out and turns the paste was rather thick and covering roughly a circle with 1.7cm in diameter. Not optimal, but not horrible either. So I cleaned it up and replied it. I put multiple small drops through the surface and smoothed it out with a credit card after each drop. Now it covers roughly 90% of the surface and my temperatures are much better! So if you temps don't drop as much as you thought they would, re-do the whole thing. :-) I wish I had my digi cam with me so I could share what it looked like...
I know these are not great temps compared to others I've seen here, but they are much better for me:
For all measures, i had BIOS 1.40, measured after warm boot. I don't know the room temperature, but to give you an idea my HDs report 29C and there's a 120mm fan blowing at them.
stock HSF & paste:
idlle: 49C
full load: 63C
first try with AS5 and stock HSF
idle: 50C
full load: 61C
second try with AS5 and stock HSF
idle: 44C
full load: 57C
That's it. :-)
What kind of temperatures you guys with an AMD 3400+ newcastle get?

Quote from: Tiresmoke on 04-April-05, 23:29:31
AS5 needs a few days to settle into it's job as well. Over the course of the first few days it will actually start to drop temps more. So if you did this all in the same day you may want to check it in a week and see how it looks.
Nope, that was over a long amount of time. stock settings was when I first got the computer and I used it for a few months. first try of AS5 was a few days, as mentioned, then the latest is what I have now. Good point, so now it's clear to everyone.

Reseated the heat sink using artic silver 3

and my temperatures remain the same as before, using the thermaltake thermal compound.
on arctic silver's website though. it did say that it would take 200 hours to get settled and that in 200 hours it would drop 2-5 degrees

Quote
Originally posted by cwigster
Seriouly though, despite the heat spreaders and increased surface area you do still need some thermal paste dont you?
You *ALWAYS* need a slurry of fine, thermally conductive particles in a neutral liquid at an interface across which you want efficient thermal transfer.
A *VERY* thin layer of paste! You do not want to create a boundary between the two objects, just enough material to be forced into the microscopic (sic) gaps between the two surfaces in accordance with the fluid exclusion principle.
Arctic silver is good quality, well mixed product; but for most PC applications, you wont see a significant improvement over silicate based pastes unless you look on the scale of weeks of uptime. Its major advantage is that it is the only "brand name" thermal paste for hobbyists which is produced at a consistent quality level (very small particle size, low tendency to agglomerate or "clump" which will impair efficiency). Dont expect to see the "2-5" degree improvements they advertise, unless you are using a well ventilated case in a very cold environment. If the ambient temperature in your case is >30ºC, then you wont see massive improvements in stability. However, good quality thermal paste will stand you in very good stead when you approach 50ºC ambient temperature in the case, as at this point the thermal resistance of the boundary becomes very important again.
I have noted before, that I personally use an optical polishing slurry of aluminium oxide with carbon fines added as a heat transfer agent; I apply this in a very thin layer with a soft rubber spatula. The addition of a heat spreader means the new HSF for the Athlon64 is much higher force than older chips and, hence, many myths relating to heat transfer can be dispelled as the actual thermal conductivity of the paste is not as important as the size of its particles now... very small particles of a low thermal conductivity material will actually create a greater effect than larger particles of high thermal conductivity since contact forces with the new HSF design are much closer to ideal.
err!
jak

Yet Another Build Thread

I'm sure you get a lot of these, but research into specs and benchmarks hasn't really gotten me anywhere, so I've come here for a first-hand opinion. Been looking to build a new computer specced for video work with Premiere Pro and After Effects, gaming, and the ability to be able to run OSX (As I understand it, the motherboard is the crucial component here, and the P8Z77-M-PRO seems to be suitable) for breadth; it will mostly be running Windows. Here's what I'm looking at right now, subject to change:
Intel CPU Core i7 3770K - $335.00
CoolerMaster Hyper 212+ EVO CPU Cooler - $37.00
Asus P8Z77-M-PRO Intel Mainboard - $129.00
G.SKILL DDR3 16GB (2x8GB) PC-12800/1600 RipjawsX F3-1600C9D-16GXM - $95.00, perhaps 32GB.
Bitfenix Alpha Merc Case - $49.99
Corsair CX600 V3 80 PLUS BRONZE PSU - $95
Gigabyte nVidia GTX 670 WF2 (?) - $419.00
Already got a couple of pretty standard hard drives from my current build, will probably expand with a 2x WD Black RAID 0 array later on. Would like to keep this under $1500, so a 2011 CPU or Quadro card is out of the question. Not really too fussed about not having an SSD. Going to wait until prices drop to at least 50c/GB.
As well looking for as general criticism, I have a few specific questions:
I have read that the Nvidia 500 series provides better video performance than the 600 series due to their larger memory interfaces. How would a 570 compare to a 670 in this respect? I know that gaming performance is roughly proportional to price. Also, what about a 580? I have found myself entirely unable to find any relevant benchmarks - it's all just games.
I am sorta cutting corners with the case and motherboard. Do you reckon I will be able to get away with this? Planning on doing some light to moderate overclocking, perhaps boost the CPU to around 4-4.2 GHz. Might also go for a second GPU further down the track (To be able to handle newer games).
Some people have been really insistent on getting me to get an i5 instead of an i7. The latter does seem to give Premiere quite the performance boost, however. I'm guessing I shouldn't listen to them?
Cheers.

Hey, thanks for the replies, much appreciated.
How much of a difference will the 4GB version of the card make, because it costs a full $100 extra. The fact that I could get a 2GB 680 for cheaper really puts me off.
How's this for a PSU? It's only silver rated, and normally, I'd stay away from brands I've never heard of before, but this is very fairly priced and has some good reviews. (EDIT: Oh, apparently it's made by Seasonic. That's good.)
As for thermal paste, I was planning on just using the stuff that comes with the 212+ cooler, which is apparently quite good, comparable to Artic Silver 5 and such.
How are the case and motherboard? Going to see if I can find a similarly priced suitable full ATX motherboard later today (The one in the build above more or less has everything I need, but is mATX, and thus may have some heat issues). Should I be looking for something with a discreet RAID controller in the spec sheet, or are these standard? Every board I have looked at lists RAID capability, but says nothing about a RAID controller
EDIT. Yep, I'll likely get a different board. Leaning towards the ASUS P8Z77-V LK, maybe the P8Z77-V with it's better heat management. Not sure if this is worth the $50 price bump, though.

Read This Contraversial Thread!

There is a thread entitled, "Water Cooling, All Hype???" @ the bleedinedge.
The essence of the thread is that an aftermarket air cooled system is equally as good as a watercooled system. The argument is that the heat dissapation of aftermarket air coolers >= the heat dissipation of water coolers. The arguer uses his computer as a prime example.
Being that I'm about to purchase my first watercooling system and I'm skeptical about the price I'm about to pay after reading this article, I would like some feedback, especially from those who've used aftermarket aircooling of proven high dissipating air coolers and then moved to watercooling where they found they could raise their VCore's higher than ever (even if not by much) and keep their temps lower than ever (hopefully by a lot but even if they couldn't, that's okay).
I'm just looking for some reassurance that watercooling is the direction to go in for overclocking.

Quote
Originally posted by RollerCam540
I actually inquired and he was more than happy to share his setup and knowledge.
He has a SP-97 with a ducted 120mm DELTA fan.
What amazed me was I used to have a 3000+ XP that I ran with a lower VCore (1.85) than he ran his 2500+ XP-M with (1.93) and he still managed to completely destroy my temperatures. This amazed me mainly because I used a Swiftech MCX462-V HSF on my CPU coupled with a Antec fan that puts out 62CFM (I was very quiet despite it's CFM output) and my temperatures were (with artic silver)
50C idle
63C-65C load.
This is why I wanted to explore watercooling. I was going to go with the Swiftech H20-80-F (H20-6400) kit, which is atleast $100USD cheaper than any custom dangerden water cooling kit.
What I was referring too was the water cooling system he was using.
The only way to do water cooling is to but top quality parts and put it together yourself. A GOOD pump with a GOOD radiator etc. Also good water additives. some samples:
http://www.frozencpu.com/ex-blc-67.html
http://www.frozencpu.com/ex-rad-32.html
http://www.frozencpu.com/ex-pmp-22.html

Does a reentrant dll call monopolize the calling thread?

If I understand thing correctly, threading for a dll call is the same as threading for a vi whose execution priority is set to subroutine.
To review threading in subvis:
(1) the thread in which a subroutine-execution-priorty-vi call is made is monopolized by the subroutine-execution-priorty-vi since labview cannot time slice the thread.
(2) if the subroutine-execution-priority-vi is not reentrant, then other threads that call the vi may be suspended because they are competing for the same code resource.
(3) if the subroutine-execution-priority-vi is reentrant, then other threads may call the vi simultaneously. However, within any particular thread the vi must complete because of point (1).
In
sum, the OS timeslices between the threads, and labVIEW timeslices within the threads. If a vi's execution priority is set to subroutine, then the thread under which it is running is monopolized by the vi. Yes?
A reentrant dll call would be equivalent to a reentrant subvi call in which the subvi's execution priority is set to subroutine. Yes?
If the above is correct then this should also be correct:
Using an API call to return the thread ID, you could use the the thread ID at the front and back side of a dll call, as well as in a message library function callable from a dll, to theoretically message labVIEW upon the dll return. The message would be uniquely identifiable because a dll call cannot be superceded by another dll call from within the same thread. Yes?
I'm not saying that it would be particularly efficient to do so, only that it could be done. And depending on the messaging, it could be a useful option in the dll call configuration dialog box.
In consider
ation of "magic",
Kind Regards,
Eric

Eric,
I'm not sure I understand exactlly what you are trying to do here.
If you want LV to react to a dll error, why don't you just pass a return
code that's not zero? Then, back in LV, read the return code. If it's not
zero, create an error, and pass this to the rest of the code. The rest of
the code is (or should, following good programming practise) has an error
in, and the code will not execute if the input error is TRUE. It does not
even have to be the return code, it could be any input value. The input
values can be changed in the code, and the modified value is returnd to
LabVIEW.
If you want to generate an error, and put it into a buffer to be read later
on in LV, you'll have to synchronise the code. This is the consequence for a
construction like this, and is the same for several windows API's
(GetLastError, etc.). the buffer will stay in memory, untill all instances
of the dll are released from LV memory.
BTW: A dll could create another thread. This thread can run on the
background, like the good old TRS's in dos. (A thread like this could even
call a LabVIEW VI that is build in a dll, just like any other api.)
BTW: A thread created by a dll can be made to be automatically released when
the thread is detatched, or when the process is detached. This is important,
because LV will crash if the dll is removed from memory, but the thread is
not stopped properly.
Regards,
Wiebe.
"Eric6756" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Greg,
>
> As I think I lost you in the point of this line of questions, let me
> back up.
>
> A couple of week ago I asked the following question, "Is there a
> labVIEW library call that can be made from a dll to tell labVIEW to
> abort the calling vi thread?" To that question you made the following
> statement:
>
> "... and I doubt that there is a function to do that from a DLL as the
> DLL could be arbitrarily deep down the stack and the function called
> would have to magically find the VI that it wants to abort. And don't
> forget that DLLs can be called by multiple VIs at the same time."
>
> You seem to be saying here that what I'm asking for is not possible.
> And having thought about this for a while, I didn't understand why
> not.
>
> For the moment I'm going to ignore the caveat you just put into the
> dll calling presumptions I've made and assume the dll is going to
> execute synchronously within a thread. As the original question
> suggests, the objective here is to message labVIEW from a dll to
> provide the same functionallity as a CIN, namely return an error code
> to labVIEW from a dll.
>
> A library function could do this as follows:
>
> First, the library function would have two modes; set error, and
> return error
>
> (1) set error:
>
> 1.1 get the set error caller thread ID from API
> 1.2 get the passed in error
> 1.3 store the error and associated thread ID locally
>
> (2) return error
> 2.1 get return error caller thread ID from API
> 2.2 locate the error, if any, associated with thread ID
> 2.3 return the error and clear it locally
>
> Now, if a dll encountered an error that it wanted labview to deal
> with, it would call the error function to set the error code. When
> the dll call returns control to labVIEW, labVIEW could call the
> function to return the error. This of course works only if the dll
> call is synchronous within a thread. Obviously, if the dll releases
> the thread before it returns, then more than one dll call can be made
> from the thread and the presumption that an error could be uniquely
> associated with a thread is itself an error.
>
> Having looked at your reply again, I think though your answering a
> different question than I asked. I just wanted a function to message
> labVIEW to abort the vi chain, I don't want to abort a vi chain from
> within the dll. It is a feature of CIN calls which I wanted in dll
> calls.
>
> That a dll call may not be synchronous within a thread throws a wrench
> in the works. Apparently I've just chased down a dead end.
>
> Hey, but thanks for the wrench...
> Kind Regards,
> Eric

Speedfan, Memory & Artic Sliver 3 burn-in

Hi All,
1) Can i set the CPU temperature to 65c, once i hit 65c the speedfan will activiated the system to have auto shutdown, pls advise how the do the setting on it ?
2) how to take out the NB temperature reading on the corecenter, i'm using 1.5.5.0 version, thanks...
3) My memory timing is running at SPD enable at 3,2,3,5,8 is this setting ok, pls advise, thanks.......
4) How to have Artic Silver 3 to act fast on the burn-in period cos on the artic website have mentioned it take estimate 200 hrs ? (*to do so can i stress my cpu to full for 15min and shutdown to cool it for another 15min and keep repeating the whole process again and again ?*)
Thanks in advance.....

I'm Sorry I missed that Question ...And NO don't do that, as it is More of a Curing Process that Does NOT entirely rely on the Temp. of the CPU...To tell you the Truth (And people Make fun of me) but this is one of the reasons that I Hate that Stuff , I used it once, and when I went to Remove my CPU for an Upgrade, the AS Stuff turned to Concrete , And Just do a search, as Many Members have Pulled the CPU OUT Along with the Heatsink ...You MUST make sure that your Rig is Very Hot when you Go to remove the HS, this is Why I use Some of the Quality "White Goop" as the Heckelers Call It , I mean I cant see using that AS and Risking Problems For just a 1-2C Improvement in the Temp. Delta (If it's even that Much anymore) The White Goop, and Ceramiqe TP's are Better for my Needs...Oh and ONE VERY IMPORTANT NOTE, I have read and I believe so Has "Toenne" the Moderator, that Both AMD and INTEL will NOT Honor the CPU's warranty if ANY Metallic Based TP is Used (And they will test for it) But the Chances of you Needing to replace your CPU are Not that Great, and Forget it if you have done any Overclocking, as they test for that too .............Sean REILLY875

Arctic Silver

I am looking for some Artic Silver (5? depending on what is avaliable) for my CPU. I checked out Maplins in Catford/Forest Hill but they didn't have any.
Where in England can I buy the stuff (pref in the shop, altough mail order is also fine

Try to buy from either:
http://www.dabs.com
OR
http://www.simply.co.uk
OR
http://www.tekheads.co.uk
OR
http://www.microdirect.co.uk

Arctic Silver not working???

So...after I had to rip off AMD's thermal superglue to check what was written on my CPU (this was before I actually got the thing working. Re:here) I removed the AMD stuff and had to put some cheap paste I had lying around on it... got temps of 38*C idle with CnQ on, so CPU was at 1Ghz and full load at 2.4Ghz peaked at 59*C, which was with stock HSF.
Bought myself some arcticlean and arctic silver 5, did everything per their instructions and got 15*C Idle and 34*C under load on the first test (3Dmark, games, CPU Burn etc) then I left computer off all day, just came back now and the temps are nearly back to before - 38*C idle, 56*C load! - ???
Is this supposed to happen or what?

15*C Idle and 34*C under load are likely as not bogus readings unless you left your computer out in the artic chill. Typical temps for the A64 series chips are in the 40c to 60c region. Afterall you do have a lot of heat with 300 million transistors to disapate. LOL
The first set of temps are within reason and are pretty darn normal especially if you have a small cramped case with air cooling. Nothing to worry about there. Artic Silver 5 if applied correctly as per their instructions can lower the temps a couple degrees Celcious. However it is not a huge difference over what AMD uses.
Clawhammers like you have are one of the Hotter A64 chips. The newer Socket 939 based 90NM chips are somewhat cooler by as many as 10 degrees Celcious but can also under extreme load reach close to what a Clawhammer normally sits at.
So yes that 15C and 38C at full load are pretty much bogus unless of course you use alternative cooling and even then darn good cooling at that.

How critical is the silver pasted between CPU & Heatsink?

One more newbie question for today:
During my first build I had no-post problems initially. The D-Link card was lit up all 4 red. I removed & re-installed the cpu & cooler 3 times trying to absolutely eliminate the "cpu not installed correctly" possibility. I had read prior to removing the cpu that it was important to clean off the old paste and apply new paste, so -- since I am on a very tight budget and don't have any of that paste on-hand, I was very careful not to disturb the paste during the three removals/re-installations. So my questions are:
1) Is it absolutely critical to replace that silver paste?
2) What would happen if I didn't?
And the reason I ask is, I've been monitoring the temp of my CPU and so far it has never risen above 28 C (82 F). Of course I haven't pushed it hard yet... but I don't think my mom-in-law is going to be doing anything more that checking her e-mail and watching an occaisional DVD movie.
Do I need to go get some of that paste? I'm very hesitant to pop the case again, since everything is working and knowing my luck, I'd fry something.
Thanks
Blaine

28°C is absolutely fine .
Run som cpu stressing like 15-20 minutes and check how much it rises .
You can use several progs for cpu stress(100% loading) , prime95 is the one most used .
( can be downloaded here : http://www.mersenne.org/freesoft.htm )
Or you may use e.g superpi and select the longest run 32M .
http://www.xtremesystems.com/pi/super_pi_mod-1.5.zip
That will give an indication if it's acceptable as aicjofs says .
If cpu is below , say 45-46 °C during a longer 100% load it's fine and you shouldnt worry .
If it pass 50°C I would look at reapplying with quality TIM stuff like artic silver products .

Artic silver 5 reviews thread

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